IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


1.1 


2.0 


u 

u 


|A0 


Ui& 


F'l!4li^ 

^ 

6"     

► 

Photographic 

Sdenoes 

CarporatiQn 


23  WIST  MAIN  STRHT 

WnSTIR,N.Y.  14SM 

(71«)t72-4S03 


ft 

CIHM/ICMH 
Microfiche 

CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 

t 

Series. 

microfiches. 

Canadian  Inatituta  for  Hiatorical  Microraproductiona  /  Inatitut  Canadian  da  microraproductiona  hiatoriquaa 


TachniccI  and  Bibliographic  Notas/Notaa  tachni«|uaa  at  bibliographiquaa 


Tha  Instituta  Itas  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  baat 
originai  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Faatjraa  of  thia 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  uniqua, 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagaa  in  tha 
raproduction.  or  which  may  aignificantly  changa 
tha  usual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chackad  balow. 


D 


D 


D 
D 

0 


D 


0 


Colourad  covara/ 
Couvartura  da  coulaur 


r~n   Covara  damagad/ 


Couvartura  andommagte 


Covara  rattorad  and/or  iaminatad/ 
Couvartura  raataurta  at/ou  paliiculAa 


I      I   Covar  titia  miaaing/ 


La  titra  da -couvartura  manqua 


n   Colourad  mapa/ 
Car  las  gAographiquas  an  coulaur 

□   Colourad  ink  (i.a.  othar  than  blua  or  black)/ 
Encra  da  coulaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  blaua  ou  noira) 


Colourad  platas  and/or  iilustrationa/ 
Planchaa  at/ou  illuatrationa  an  coulaur 


Bound  with  othar  matarial/ 
Rali*  avac  d'autraa  documanta 

Tight  binding  may  causa  shadows  or  distortion 
along  intarior  margin/ 

La  re  liura  sarrAa  paut  cauaar  da  I'ombra  ou  da  la 
diatortion  la  long  da  la  marga  intAriaura 

Blank  laavas  addad  during  raatoration  may 
appaar  within  tha  taxt.  Whanavar  poaaibia,  thaaa 
hava  baan  omittad  from  filming/ 
II  aa  paut  qua  cartainaa  pagas  blanchaa  ajoutiaa 
lora  d'una  rastauration  apparaisaant  dans  la  taxta, 
maia,  lorsqua  cala  Mait  possibia,  caa  pagaa  n'ont 
pas  Atd  filmias. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm*  la  maillaur  axamplairc 
qu'il  lui  a  iti  poaaibia  da  aa  procurar.  Las  ditails 
da  cat  axamplaira  qui  aont  paut-Atra  uniquas  du 
point  da  vua  bibiiographiqua,  qui  pauvant  modif iar 
una  imaga  raproduita,  ou  qui  pauvant  axigar  una 
modification  dana  la  mAthoda  normala  da  filmaga 
aont  indiquAa  ci-dassous. 


D 
D 
D 
0 
D 
0 
D 
D 
D 
D 


Colourad  pagar/ 
Pagas  da  coulaur 

Pagas  damagad/ 
Pagas  andommagAas 

Pages  raatorad  and/or  laminatad/ 
Pagas  raatsurAw  at/ou  pailiculAas 

Pagas  discolourad,  stainad  or  foxad/ 
Pagas  dAcolorAas,  tachatidss  ou  piquAas 

Pagas  datachad/ 
Pagas  ditachAas 

Showthrough/ 
Transparanca 

Quality  of  print  varias/ 
Quality  inigala  da  I'imprassion 

Includaa  aupplamantary  matarial/ 
Comprand  du  material  supplAmantaira 

Only  adition  availabia/ 
Saula  Mition  disponibia 

Pagas  wholly  or  partially  obscurad  by  arrata 
slips,  tissuas,  ate.,  hava  baan  rafilmad  to 
anaura  tha  bast  poaaibia  imaga/ 
Laa  pagaa  totalamant  ou  partiallamant 
obacurciaa  par  un  fauiliat  d'arrata.  una  palura, 
ate,  ont  AtA  film^aa  A  nouvaau  d«  fa^on  A 
obtanir  la  maillaura  imaga  poaaibia. 


The 
totl 


Additional  commanta:/ 
Commantairas  suppMmantairaa: 


Irrsgular  psBinatkui:  [i]  -  xiv,  [9]  -  336  p. 


The 
pos 
oft 
filn 


Ori 

bai 

tha 

slot 

oth 

fir» 

sioi 

ori 


The 
sha 
TIN 
whi 

Mai 
diff( 
anti 
bagi 
righ 
raqi 
mat 


Thia  item  la  filmed  at  tha  reduction  ratio  cheeked  below/ 

Ce  document  eat  f  ilmA  au  taux  da  rMuctton  indiquA  cl-deaaoua. 


10X 

14X 

WX 

22X 

aix 

aox 

JL 

12X 

1SX 

aox 

MX 

aix 

a2x 

Th«  copy  filmad  hare  hat  b««n  raproduced  thanks 
to  tha  ganaroaity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


L'axamplaira  filmi  fut  raproduit  grflca  A  la 
gAnArositA  da: 

BibliothAque  nationala  du  Canada 


Tha  image*  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covera  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  iliuatratiHl  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
f  irat  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  laat  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^4^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  y  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  appliaa. 


Las  images  suivantes  ont  4tA  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compta  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
de  la  nettetA  de  I'exempiaira  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avec  las  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Lea  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimte  sont  filmte  en  commenpant 
par  la  premier  plat  at  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
darni^re  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  la  caa.  Tous  lea  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  aont  filmfo  an  commenpant  par  la 
premlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  darniire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparattra  sur  la 
darnlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  seion  le 
caa:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbols  ▼  signifie  "FIN". 


IMaps.  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratioa.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  Included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  aa  many  framea  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Lea  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmte  h  dee  taux  de  reduction  diff Arents. 
Lorsqua  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  §tre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  11  est  film*  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  it  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n^cessaira.  Las  diagrammea  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

AME 


Conflv'ei 


RECENTLY     PUBLISHED, 

NO  FICTION :  a  Narrative,  founded  on  recent  and 
interesting  Facts.  By  the  Rev.  Andrew  Reed.  New 
and  Improved  Edition.     12mo. 

'    MARTHA :  a  Memorial  of  an  only  anc'        >ved  Sis- 
ter.   By  the  Rev.  Andrew  Reed.     12mo. 


AMD  lOLD 


NARRATIVE 

Of 

THE    VISIT 

TO  THE 

AMERICAN    CHURCHES, 

BY  THE 

DEPUTATION 

FROM   THE 

ConflveflatConal  {anion  of  Enfllanli  ano  muU8» 

BV 

andrewCreed,  d.d. 

AND 

JAMES    MATHESON,    D.D. 

IN     TWC     VOLUMES. 
VOL.  I. 


NEW-YORK: 

PUBLISHED  BY  HARPER  &  BROTHERS^ 

NO.    82    OLirr-STRBKT, 

AMD  lOLD  BY  THE  PRINCIPAL  B00K8BLLRRB  THROPOaOUT  TBI 

VMITBO  STATES. 


18  35. 


gX7/3>7 


V 


E 


WITH  Tl 


X 


^5 


TO 

THE  CHURCHES 

OP 

ENGLAND    AND    AMERICA, 

IS   RESPECTFULLY    DEDICATED, 

VITH   THE   EARNEST    DESIRE    THAT    IT    MAY     PROMOTE 

THEIR    MUTUAL   AFFECTION, 

AND    THEIR   UNITED   OEVOTBDNESS 

TO   THE 

world's    SALVATION, 

BY  THE 

DEPUTATION. 


>msh 


J 


I 


It  mu 

written  < 

occupied 

tion  of  t 

judgmen 

the  advai 

Notwil 

by  travel 

interestin 

Religion 

Happily, 

since  to  i 

other;  an 

with  the 

spirit  and 

must  be  c< 

if  nature 

narrative, 

commendi 

facility  an 

"thethini 

The  C( 

1831.     It 

at  length  i 

the  times, 


PREFACE. 


It  must  be  admitted  that  enough  has  been  recently 
written  on  America,  unless  it  were  better  written,  or 
occupied  some  new  field  of  discourse.  The  execu- 
tion of  the  following  volumes  must  be  left  with  the 
judgment  of  the  public ;  but  the  Authors  may  claim 
the  advantage  of  having  occupied  new  ground. 

Notwithstanding  the  numerous  communications  made 
by  travellers  within  these  few  years,  relative  to  this 
interesting  country,  the  ample  fields  of  Nature  and 
Religion  remained  almost  unexplored  and  unreported. 
Happily,  these  subjects  are  in  keeping  with  each  other, 
since  to  illustrate  one  is  to  assist  the  conception  of  the 
other ;  and  happily,  too,  they  were  most  in  accordance 
with  the  taste  of  the  writers,  as  well  as  in  the  very 
spirit  and  design  of  their  Mission.  Religion,  indeed, 
must  be  considered  as  the  great  subject  of  inquiry ;  and 
if  nature- and  outward  circumstance,  in  the  form  of 
narrative,  are  associated  with  it,  it  is  from  a  desire  of 
commending  to  the  memory  and  heart,  with  greater 
facility  and  power,  the  things  that  are  *'  invisible,"  by 
**  the  things  which  do  appear." 

The  Congregational  Union  was  formed  in  the  year 
1831.  It* had  been  several  times  contemplated;  and 
at  length  arose,  partly  from  the  growing  exigencies  of 
the  times,  and  partly  from  the  improved  spirit  in  the 

1* 


vl 


PREFACE. 


churches.  It  was  fell  that,  in  pleading  with  unwaver- 
ing resolution  for  the  principle  of  Independence,  under 
difficult  circumstances,  we  were  liable  to  adopt  a  lim- 
ited view  of  its  import ;  and  that  it  was  desirable,  on 
every  account,  to  convey  the  acknowledged  strength 
and  efficiency  of  our  individual  churches  to  those 
churches  in  an  associated  capacity.  The  attempt  has 
been  successful  beyond  the  expectations  of  many ;  and 
it  is  earnestly  to  be  hoped,  that,  since  the  sign  of  our 
religion  is  Union,  and  the  spirit  of  it  Love,  its  success 
will  be  complete. 

One  of  the  best  and  earliest  eflfects  of  this  union 
was,  to  express  sympathy  to  kindred  fellowships,  with- 
out restriction  from  national  bias  or  geographical  boun- 
daries. An  affectionate  correspondence  was  soon 
opened  between  it  and  the  Presbyterian  and  Congre- 
gational bodies  of  the  United  States,  which  afforded 
much  gratification.  Affection  was  strengthened  by  its 
exercise;  and  it  was  proposed  to  seek  the  higher 
profit  and  pleasure  which  might  arise  from  personal 
intercourse.  In  this  spirit,  a  Deputation  was  appointed 
to  make  a  fraternal  visit  to  the  churches  of  that  land  , 
to  assure  them  of  our  Christian  esteem  and  affection ; 
and  to  bear  home  again  the  responses  of  kindness  and 
confidence.  The  churches  of  America  have  shown 
their  eagerness  to  participate  in  this  communion ;  not 
only  by  the  tempex  in  which  they  received  the  Deputa- 
tion, but  equally  by  the  celerity  with  which  they  deter- 
mined to  send  their  delegates  in  retim;  while  the 
efforts  which  we  have  already  made  have  certainly 
disposed  us  the  more  fully  to  renew  and  perpetuate 
the  delightful  intercourse. 


••#«;* 


One 

the  part 

could  h{ 

and  joy. 

cern,  if  i 

in  the  n 

to  misre] 

tion.     T 

mission  ^ 

j  that  they 

)'  pHsh  ;  th 
Christian 
— nothing 
done  to  a 
execution 
ous  and  th 
I  elusion  o( 
j  haps  prej 
unalterab 
one  of  the 
times,  has 
rightly  su 
tous;  and 
most  che€ 
of  the  ch 
world. 
It  was 
I  the  Depul 
lished  rej 
ibility  an] 
>bey  urgej 
^hich  thel 


I'Rtr.VCE. 


VII 


) 


One  should  have  thought,  that  such  a  nioveineut  on 
the  part  of  churches  in  diflerent  regions  of  the  glohe, 
could  have  been  viewed  only  with  unmixed  satisfaction 
and  joy.     Yet  the  Deputation,  on  returning,  have  con- 
cern, if  not  surprise,  to  find  that,  in  some  quarters,  and 
in  the  name  of  religion,  their  mission  has  been  open 
to  misrepresentation,  and  their  motives  to  misconstruc- 
tion.    They  trust,  however,  when  it  is  found  that  their 
mission  was  as  catholic  as  the  religion  they  profess ; 
that  they  had  no  political  or  party  purposes  to  accom- 
J  plish ;  that  their  embassy  wa3  one  of  fraternal  and 
i  Christian  charity, — to  express  love  and  to  invite  love, 
1  — nothing  more  and  nothing  less — that  justice  will  be 
done  to  a  service  which,  apart  from  the  manner  of  its 
execution,  demands  only  the  approbation  of  the  gener- 
ous and  the  good.     Whatever  may  be  the  ultimate  con- 
I  elusion  of  those  who  have  indulged  in  hasty,  and  per- 
jh  afforded     \  haps  prejudiced  objection,  their  judgment  is  fixed — 
ened  by  its    |  unalterably  fixed.     They  have  reason  to  regard  it  as 


inwaver- 
:e,  under 
pt  a  lim- 
rable,  on 
strength 
to  those 
tempt  has 
any;  and 
gn  of  our 
is  success 

this  union 
hips,  with- 
lical  boun- 
was  soon 
id  Congre- 


the  higher 
m  personal 
s  appointed 
that  land  , 
d  affection ; 
indness  and 
lave  shown 
[lunion;  not 
the  Deputa- 
i  they  deter- 
while  the 
ve  certainly 
d  perpetuate 


one  of  the  noblest  acts  to  which  the  church,  in  recent 
times,  has  given  herself ;  they  are  confident  that,  if 
rightly  sustained,  the  consequences  will  be  most  felici- 
tous ;  and  they  must  regard  it,  in  itself,  as  among  the 
most  cheering  signs  of  the  times,  if,  indeed,  the  union 
of  the  church  is  to  anticipate  the  conversion  of  the 
world. 

It  was  no  part  of  the  engagement,  that  the  visit  of 
the  Deputation  should  issue  in  an  extended  and  pub- 
lished report.  But  they  have  been  ready,  with  such 
bility  an^ opportunity  as  they  might  command,  to 
bey  urgent  request ;  and  the  more  so,  as  the  interest 
hich  the  mission  has  created  in  their  minds,  disposes 


Via 


PREFACE. 


I? 


them  to  contribute  to  the  utmost  to  render  its  efl'ects 
extensively  and  permanently  beneticial.  They  have 
felt  that  this  part  of  their  undertaking  is  attended  with 
delicacy  and  diiPiculty.  Every  blatement  is  likely  to 
be  seen  through  the  medium  of  opposite  habitt  ind 
partialities  ;  and  on  that  account  alone,  while  it  gives 
pleasure  to  one  party,  it  may  give  offence  to  the  other. 
All  offence,  indeed,  might  have  been  easily  a/oided, 
by  avoiding  discrimination ;  but  to  write  without  dis- 
crimination would  bo  to  write  without  profit.  They 
have  confidence  in  the  manliness  of  the  American 
character  to  believe,  that  candid  remark,  when  meant 
for  improvement,  will  be  candidly  received;  and  if 
comparison  and  discrimination  should  sometimes  re- 
veal defects  on  our  own  part,  they  cannot  think  that 
it  must  necessarily  give  offence.  They  have  sought 
to  fulfil  their  commission  in  forgetfulness  of  prejudice 
on  the  one  hand,  and  partiality  on  the  other ;  and  they 
will  not  suppose  that,  on  this  account,  they  will  be 
deemed  worthy  of  blame  or  suspicion.  It  were  un- 
generous of  them  not  to  do  justice  to  America ;  but  it 
were  unnatural  of  them  to  depreciate  England  for  the 
purpose  of  exalting  America.  They  are  truly  sensi- 
ble that  their  mission  is  one  of  pure  charity;  they 
would  deeply  regret  that  it  should  not  be  consummated 
in  this  spirit ;  and  should  it  seem  to  be  otherwise,  in  any 
instance,  they  crave  of  the  reader  to  supply  the  charita- 
ble construction  which  may  be  wanting  in  the  writer. 
The  circumstances  of  time,  of  distance,  and  of  the 
Deputies  having,  during  the  visit,  kept  seMjrate  notes, 
made  it  requisite,  in  preparing  the  following  volumes, 
that  there  should  be  a  division  of  labour.    It  will  be 


seen  tl 

the  ar 

append 

ing  por 

respons 

The> 

to  the  p 

edgmeni 

during  t 

cially  th 

ily  made 

were  so 

nexions, 

ible  sens* 

tions. 

On  the 
questional 
abide  and 
course, 
we  not  e:j 
shall  bec< 
efforts  to 
be  blessec 
And  Englj 
common  d| 
London, 


PREFACE. 


IX 


efl'ects 
sy  have 
led  with 
ikely  to 
bitt   jnd 
It  gives 
le  other* 
a/oidedf 
hout  dis- 
t.    They 
(American 
en  meant 
i;  and  if 
itimes  re- 
think that 
ive  sought 
prejudice 
;  and  they 
jy  will  be 
were  un- 
ca;  but  it 
md  for  the 
ruly  sensi- 
irity;  they 
isummated 
nse,  in  any 
he  charita- 
the  writer, 
and  of  the 
urate  notes, 
ig  volumes, 
It  will  be 


seen  that  the  report  on  Canada  and  Pennsylvania,  and 
the  arrangements  of  the  ^Statistical  'I'ables  in  the 
appendix,  rested  with  Mr.  Mutheson ;  for  the  remain- 
ing portions,  the  other  member  of  the  Deputation  is 
responsible. 

They  cannot  allow  themselves  to  commit  this  work 
to  the  public,  without  a  distinct  and  grateful  acknowl- 
edgment of  the  manifold  kindnesses  expressed  to  them 
during  their  residence  in  the  United  States.  Espe- 
cially they  desire  to  assure  those  friends  who  so  read- 
ily made  them  a  home  in  their  own  families,  when  they 
were  so  entirely  separated  from  their  endeared  con- 
nexions, that  they  do  and  must  retain  a  deep  and  indel- 
ible sense  of  their  affectionate  and  self-denying  atten- 
tions. 

On  the  whole,  as  the  fruits,  at  the  time,  were  un- 
questionably good,  may  it  not  be  hoped  that  they  shall 
abide  and  improve  with  years?  And  by  such  inter- 
course, maintained  on  Christian  principles,  why  may 
we  not  expect  that  the  churches  of  the  two  countries 
shall  become  one  ;  the  people  become  one  ;  and  their 
efforts  to  benefit  the  world  one  ;  till  all  nations  shall 
be  blessed,  even  as  England  and  America  are  blessed  ? 
And  England  and  America  the  more  blessed,  for  the 
common  deed  of  righteousness  and  love  ? 

London,  April  28,  1836. 

A3 


" 


Departure 
ception. 


iillil 


CONTENTS   OF  VOL.   I. 


LETTER  I. 

Departure  from  Liverpool. — Passage  to  New- York. — Kind  Re- 
ception.— First  Impressions         ....         Paqe  9 

LETTER  n. 

Invitation  of  the  Presbytery. — Service  at  the  Free  Church.— 
Mercantile  Distress. — Whig  Celebration      ...         16 

LETTER  III. 

Journey  to  Washington. — Chamber  of  Representatives. — Senate 
Chamber. — Congress. — President's  House,  &.c. — Slave  Pen.— 
Wind  Storm. — Georgetown. — Mount  Vernon. — Family  of 
Washington 22 

LETTER  IV. 

Return  to  New- York. — Religious  Anniversaries. — Foreign  Mis- 
sionary Society. — General  Impressions        ...        36 

LETTER  V. 

Excursion  to  Morristown ;  Sabbath  there. — State  of  Religion, 
and  Account  of  a  late  Revival. — Journey  to  Philadelphia     44 

LETTER  VI. 

Meeting  of  the  General  Assembly. — Ordination  of  Mr.  Parker.— 
China.  — Philadelphia.  — Penn's  Monument. — Penitentiary. — 
Quakers. — Hicksites. — Return  to  New- York       .        .        50 

LETTER  VII. 

Meeting  of  Merchants. — Departure  for  Boston. — Pastoral  Asso- 
ciation in  that  place. — Christian  Knowledge  Society. — Congre- 
gational Convention. — Baptist  Education  Society. — Old  South 
Meeting. — Plymouth  Rock. — Public  Meeting. — State  of  the 
Town. — Burial-ground 61 


Xil 


CONTENTS. 


l!    . 


I    I 


LETTER  VIII. 

Journey  to  Burlington. — Lowell. — Concord. — Royalton. — Han' 
over. — Montpelier. — Sharon  and  Canterbury  Shaker  Settle- 
ments.— Emigrants. — The  Gulf  Road. — Waterbury. — Water- 
bury  Falls. — Burlington. — Lake  Champlain        .         .         74 


LETTER  IX. 
Niagara. — Queenstown. — The  Falls 


84 


LETTER  X. 

Journey  to  Buffalo. — Black  Rock. — Steamboat. — Destruction  of 
Buffalo. — Remarkable  importunity  of  a  poor  Widow. — Lake 
Erie. — Dunkirk. — Cleaveland. — Portland. — Account  of  Revi- 
val.— Sandusky. — Columbus. — Inconveniences  of  travelling. — 
Russell's  Tavern. — Log  Huts. — Prairies. — German  Settlers. — 
Storm  in  the  Forest. — Mormonites. — Marion. — Delaware. — 
Worthington. — Columbus 93 

LETTER  XI. 

Journey  to  Cincinnati. — Jeflferson. — Yellow  Springs. — Spring- 
field.— Storm  at  Night. — Lebanon. — Cincinnati. — Fourth  of 
July. — Declaration  of  Independence. — Association  of  Minis- 
ters.— Lane  Seminary. — State  of  Religion. — Servants. — State 
of  Ohio. — Granville 108 

LETTER  XII. 

Passage  to  Louisville  on  the  River  Ohio. — Extreme  Heat. — Mos- 

cheto-net. — Slaves. — Selby  ville. — Frankfort.  —  School-House. 

— Kentucky  Squeeze. — Lexington. — Temperance  Meeting. — 

Revival,  &c. — Romanism 120 

LETTER  XIII. 

Forest.  —  Owensville.  —  Guiandot.  —  Kentucky.  —  Camelism.  — 
Colleges,  &c. 133 


LETTER  XIV. 

Charleston. — Salt  Works. — Kenawa  Falls. — The  Hawk's  Nest. 
— Mountain  Scenery. — Lewisburgh. — White  Sulphur  Springs. 
— Quiet  Inn. — Temperance  House. — North  Mountain. — ^The 
Grand  Turn. — Forest. — Roads. — Lexington       .         .         139 

LETTER  XV. 

Sabbath  at  Lexington. — African  Church. — The  Blacks. — Metho- 
dists.— Temperance    Cause. — Weyer's    Cave. — Inn. — New 


Hope. — ^Natural  Bridge 


160 


Sacramer 

— Chai 
umenta 


Steamboa 
Hospit 
Norris 


j    Remarks  < 
3       — Baltir 


Passage  t 
Examine 
ment. — ] 
son. — Al 
the  Patn 


Schenectad 
Night  on 
Falls.— C 


Union  Coll 
Public 
Dog.-: 
menceme 


Northamptc 
Solomon 
Party.— j 
Account  f 


; 


8 


Revival  at  I 
dith  Assj 
Excursiol 


jowell. — ( 
Lectures  I 
CommenI 


CO^T'" 


rs. 


xni 


;on. — Han 
ler  Settle- 
^._Water- 


struction  of 
low. — Lake 
nt  of  Revi- 
ravelling. — 
I  Seitlere. — 
Delaware. — 
.        93 


gs.— Spring- 
— Fourth  of 
m  of  Minis- 
ants.— State 
108 


Heat.— Mos- 
chool-House. 
5  Meeting. — 
120 


Camelism.  — 
133 


hawk's  Nest, 
phur  Springs, 
untain. — ^The 
139 


icks. — Metho- 
— Inn.— New 
160 


LETTER  XVL 

Sacramental  Meeting. — Staunton — Revivals  there. — Blue  Ridge. 
— Charlottesville. — University. — Jefferson. — Richmond. — Mon- 
umental Church. — Slave  Auction. — Thunder-storm    .         169 

LETTER  XVn. 


Steamboat. — The  Rappahannoc.  - 
Hospitahty.  —  Northern  Neck. 
Norris 


-Merry   Point. —  Scenery.— 
—  Camp-meeting.  —  Deacon 

183 


LETTER  XVin. 

:•^   Remarks  on  Camp-meetings. — Journey  to  Baltimore. — The  Bay. 
I       — Baltimore  Slave-mart. — A  Methodist  Church         .         302 

I  LETTER   XIX. 

Passage  to  Philadelphia.  —  Princeton.  —  Jersey.  —  Theological 
Examination. — Library. — Present  from  the  English  Govern- 
ment.— New-Brunswick. — Journey  to  New- York. — The  Hud- 
son.— Albany. — Saratoga. — Religious  Hotel. — Troy. — Visit  to 
the  Patroon 210 

LETTER  XX. 

Schenectady. — Erie  Canal. — Mohawk  Valley. — Passengers. — 
Night  on  the  Water. — Utica. — Oneida  Institution. — Trenton 
Falls.— Conference 222 

LETTER  XXI. 

Union  College  at  Schenectady. — Albany. — Female  Academy. — 
Public  Buildings. — Journey. — Pursuit  of  Robbers. — Faithful 
Dog.  —  Pittsfield.  —  Lebanon.  — Windsor.  — Amherst. — Com- 
mencement.— Hadley. — Remarkable  Anecdote  .  233 

LETTER   XXII. 

I  Northampton. — Holyoke. — Rattlesnake. — Jonathan  Edwards.— 
Solomon  Stoddard. — Regard  to  Worship. — y^orals. — Young 
Party. — Sabbath  Day. — Burial-ground. — Brainerd's  Tomb. — 
Account  of  Revival. — Account  of  Sunday  Schools     .         245 

LETTER  XXIII. 

[Revival  at  Amherst. — Brattleborough. — The  Dearborn. — Mere- 
dith Association. — Sacrament. — Impressions. — Conference.  - 
Excursion. — Lake  Winnipiseogee      ....        266 

LETTER  XXIV. 

jowell. — Cotton    Factory. — Sabbath. — Abstinence     Society.— 
Lectures    on    Geology. — Andover. — Institutions. — Andover 

Commencement 281 

2 


xiv 


CONTENTS. 


it 


LETTER  XXV. 

Salem.  —  Ipswich.  —  Female    School.  —  Newburyport. — White- 
field's   Remains. — Portsmouth. — Portland. — Orphan  Asylum. 


-Dr.  Payson. — Arrival  at  Boston 


S94 


LETTER  XXVL 

Boston.  —  The  Mall.  —  Horticultural  Society.  —  Cambridge. — 
Mount  Auburn. — Ordination  of  Rev.  J.  Abbott. — Eliot  Church. 
— Meeting  of  Merchants. — Meeting  of  Ministers. — Dorchester 
Farewell  Service 803 

LETTER  XXVn. 

Hartford.  —  Thomas  Hooker.  —  Charter  Oak. — Conference. — 
Bible  Meeting. — Missionary  Ordination. — New-Haven. — Eli 
Whitney. — Yale  College. — Burial-ground. — Cave  of  the  Reg- 
icides.— Scenery. — Fraternal  Intercourse  .         .         315 

LETTER  XXVni. 

Passage  to  New- York. — Meeting  of  Friends. — ^Valedictory  Ser- 
vice. —  Address  to  the  Delegation.  —  Farewells.  —  Passage 
Home. — Sight  of  Land. — Remarkable  Preservation. — Arrival 
at  Liverpool — Kindness  of  Friends. — Home      .  325 


i! 


•i| 


t.—Whiw- 

a  Asylum- 
894 


inibridge. — 

liot  Church. 

-Dorchester 

SOS 


NARRATIVE,  &c.  &c. 


mference.— ; 

Haven. — EU 

of  the  Reg- 

315 


sdictory  Ser- 

g._- Passage 

ion.— Arrival 

325 


LETTER  I. 

My  dear  Friend, 
I  REMEMBER,  when  Called  to  separate  from  you,  that  I 
promised  to  supply  you  with  a  narrative  of  our  visit  to 
the  Western  World.     I  originally  meant  to  do  this  by  a 
succession  of  letters,  transmitted  from  date  to  date,  as  ] 
might  change  the  place  of  observation,  or  find  opportu- 
nity to  copy  and  forward  my  impressions.     Such,  how- 
ever, was  the  pressure   and  continuity  of  my  engage- 
I  ments,  as  to  make  this  quite  impracticable.     All  that  I 
could  do  was  to  take  hasty  notes,  to  defend  me  from  the 
treachery  of  the  memory ;  in  the  hope  that  I  might  after- 
jward  give  them  such  form  and  correctness  as  might  ren- 
jder  them  intelligible  and  acceptable  to  you.     I  now  pro- 
Ipose  to  fulfil  this  duty ;  and  I  have  the  persuasion  that, 
lunder  the  circumstances,  you  will  receive  it  as  a  real, 
[though  a  late,  redemption  of  my  promise. 

On  the  morning  succeeding  the  very  solemn  and 
iffecting  valedictory  service  at  Zion  Chapel,  I  left  town 
jfor  Liverpool.  On  arriving  at  that  place,  I  was  sought 
)ut  by  my  esteemed  friend  Mr.  BuUey,  and  kindly  urged 
[o  make  his  house  my  home.  Here  I  was  joined  by  Mr. 
^latheson,  who  was  to  be  the  companion  of  my  travels, 
ivery  thing  had  been  arranged  by  our  friend  for  our  de- 
j>arture ;  and  we  had  only  to  realize  and  confirm  those 
[rrangemonts  previously  to  our  sailing. 

The  Europe,  in  which  vessel  we  had  engaged  our  pas- 
sage, was  announced  to  sail  on  the  16th;  but  we  had 

A  3 


10 


EMBARCATION. 


I'i  ! 


,.$ 


Ifcii 


:! ! 


1IM  ! 


hope  that  as  the  tide  would  not  serve  till  two  o'clock, 
and  as  the  wind  was  not  promising  in  the  opening  of  the 
day,  that  we  might  pass  our  Sabbath  in  quietude.  With 
this  doubtful  hope  we  participated  in  the  morning  wor- 
ship at  Dr.  Raffles's,  and  had  an  especial  place  in  the 
prayers  of  the  church  and  congregation.  At  the  close 
of  the  service  the  word  was — "  The  wind  serves — all 
on  board  immediately."  We  obeyed  the  summons ; 
parted  with  our  friends  ;  joined  our  vessel ;  and  commit- 
ted ourselves  to  the  ocean  and  to  God. 

The  passage  is  now  so  regularly  made,  and  it  has 
been  so  often  described,  that  it  is  needless  to  offer  par- 
ticulars. Our  packet  is  considered  one  of  the  finest  on 
the  line  ;  it  is  fitted  up  in  the  most  handsome  style ;  it 
has  a  table  not  inferior  to  our  best  inns ;  it  is  indeed  a 
floating  hotel.  Our  company,  too,  composed  as  it  was 
of  all  professions  and  pursuits,  was  respectable  and 
agreeable  ;  they  were  rather  disposed  to  respect  than  to 
depreciate  us  on  the  ground  of  our  ministerial  character ; 
we  parted  with  many  of  them  with  much  regret,  and 
afterward  in  our  travels  met  with  some  of  them  with 
sincere  pleasure.  Indeed,  every  thing  was  acceptable 
and  pleasant,  with  the  exception  of  close  air,  coffin-like 
cabins,  restless  but  confined  motion,  and — the  seasick- 
ness. These  deductions,  unhappily,  belong  to  a  sea 
life  ;  and  though  the  allowance  made  for  them  may  be 
various  with  various  persons,  I  think  it  is  uniformly  con- 
siderable ;  for  I  have  always  observed  that  both  the 
sailor  and  the  passenger  equally  admit,  that  the  quick 
voyage  is  the  good  voyage. 

You  know  my  admiration  for  the  ocean ;  I  had  one 
opportunity  of  seeing  it  in  its  majesty.  We  were  in  a 
smart  gale  of  wind  for  a  day  and  a  half.  Unwell  as  I 
was,  I  could  not  forego  the  unobstructed  enjoyment  of 
the  scene.  I  got  on  deck,  and  secured  myself  as  well 
as  I  could  by  the  cordage,  and  observed  in  silence. 
Every  thing  was  raised  from  its  ordinary  state  of  being, 
and  was  full  of  power.  The  calm  earnestness  of  the 
captain ;   the   awakened   and  prompt  attention  of  theS 


iailor ; 
ing  and 
of  the  1 
were  fu] 
a  cord  o 
merely  d 
I  said  of  i 
'i  up  our  vi 
I  in  the  hi 
I  unbroken 
threatenii 
;  then  I  ha 
i  Nature  ai 
1  and  in  n 
what  the 
seen  it  be 
I      I  will 
I  not  see  tl 
I  told  that 
I  avouch  it. 


PilOSPECTS    OP    LAND. 


U 


0  o'clock, 
ling  of  the 
le.  With 
ning  wor- 
Lce  in  the 
;  the  close 
erves — all 
summons ; 
id  commit- 

and  it  has 
)  offer  par- 
le  finest  on 
3  style;  it 
is  indeed  a 
d  as  it  was 
sctable  and 
)ect  than  to 

1  character ; 
regret,  and 
'  them  with 
(  acceptable 
r,  coffin-like 
the  seasick- 
ig  to  a  sea 
hem  may  be 
liformly  con- 
lat  both  the 
hat  the  quick 

[1 ;  I  had  one 
Ve  were  in  a 
Unwell  as  I 
mjoyment  of 
lyself  as  well 
d  in  silence, 
tate  of  being, 
stness  of  the 
sntion  of  the! 


sailor ;  the  subdued  anxiety  of  the  passenger ;  the  strain- 
ing and  groaning  of  the  vessel ;  the  roaring  and  battling 
of  the  waters  as  they  resisted  our  impetuous  course ; 
were  full  of  sublimity.  At  such  a  time,  the  snapping  of 
a  cord  or  the  starting  of  a  plank  might  have  brought  not 
merely  disaster,  but  death.  But  the  ocean,  what  shall  be 
said  of  it  1  When  it  rose  in  all  its  mightiness,  and  shut 
up  our  view,  which  was  before  illimitable,  to  a  small  span 
in  the  heavens ;  when  it  stood  around  our  little  bark  in 
unbroken  mountains,  as  once  it  did  around  the  Egyptians, 
threatening  to  ingulf  us  in  an  instant  and  for  ever; 
then  I  had  an  advanced  and  unutterable  conception  of 
Nature  and  of  Omnipotence.  In  crossing  our  channels, 
and  in  running  along  our  coasts,  I  had  thought  I  knew 
what  the  sea  was ;  but  I  was  then  satisfied  I  had  never 
seen  it  before. 

I  will  not  trouble   you  further  with  sights.     We  did 
not  see  the  icebergs  nor  the  sea-serpents.     We  were 
told  that  we  saw  some  whales;  but  I  should  fear  to 
avouch  it.     Indeed,  we  were  now  beginning  to  look  for 
the  land,  as  decidedly  the  most  interesting  object.     But 
while  searching  for  it,  calm  and  fog  came  on,  and  made 
us  in  turn  fearful  of  the  object  of  our  anxious  search, 
i  This  pause  to  our  hopes  was  hard  to  bear  so  near  to  our 
}  haven.     Every  wish  was  now  directed  to  the  pilot-boats ; 
'<  and  when  at  length  one  was  discovered,  like  the  wing  of 
a  bird  through  the  opening  mists,  there  was  universal  joy. 
We  felt  as  if,  on  getting  the  pilot  on  board,  we  should 
[make  a  decided  movement  towards  our  port.     But  the 
breeze  was  still  faint  and  the  fog  heavy.     Fogs,  it  is  un- 
derstood, prevail  very  much  at  this  season  of  the  year  for 
[many  days ;  and  they  arise  from  the  sudden  return  of 
[hot  weather,  which  dissolves  the  ice,  and  produces  im- 
Imense   evaporation.      We   moved   slowly  through  the 
[Narrows  into  the  expanding  bay,  and  dropped  anchor  in 
Ithe  evening  off  Staten  Island,  and  about  six  miles  from 
[the  city.     In  the  morning  we  quitted  our  vessel  for  a 
[steamboat.      The   mists   were   still  heavy,  and   veiled 
every  thing  from  sight;  we  lost,  therefore,  for  the  pres- 


12 


AlUllVAL   AT    NLVV-VOilK. 


lilii 


I!  I  1|  I 


ent,  the  view  of  the  bay,  which  is  admitted  to  be  exceed' 
ingly  good.  This,  with  a  new  world  before  us,  was  but 
a  slight  disappointment.  About  ten  o'clock  I  sprang  on 
the  landing  at  New- York,  and  realized  the  presence  of 
a  country  which  had  long  dwelt  as  a  picture  of  interest 
and  of  hope  in  my  imagination. 

We  made  the  best  of  our  way  to  Bunker's  Hotel. 
Our  first  inquiry  was  for  single-bedded  rooms,  as  we  un- 
derstood that  to  be  the  only  matter  of  doubt.  They 
were  readily  obtained ;  and  a  black  servant  was  com- 
missioned to  conduct  us  to  them.  After  dressing,  our 
first  concern  was,  to  use  our  retirement  in  acknowledging 
the  Hand  which  had  conducted  us  safely  over  the  great 
Atlantic ;  and  in  committing  ourselves  to  its  renewed 
guidance,  now  that  we  were  strangers  in  a  strange  land. 

Before  we  retired  to  our  rooms,  we  had  expressed  a 
wish  for  some  refreshment ;  and  I  expected,  on  coming 
down,  to  see  a  little  breakfast-table  set  for  us.  Nothing 
of  this  sort  was,  however,  visible.  I  went  into  the  bar- 
room, and  looked  at  the  papers,  still  waiting  for  a  sum- 
mons to  the  anticipated  refreshment.  At  last  I  ap- 
proached to  tho  bar,  and  ventured  to  ask  for  it.  The 
master  of  the  ceremonies,  without  speaking,  placed  a 
small  basket  of  biscuits  and  a  plate  of  cheese  before  us 
as  we  stood.  We  were  amused,  as  well  as  disappoint- 
ed ;  and,  as  we  seemed  to  be  without  choice,  we  partook 
of  the  supply  that  was  offered.  We  thought,  at  least, 
that  the  little  set-out  had  been  for  us  ;  but  while  we  ^J 
were  busy  with  it,  two  or  three  gentlemen  came  up,  and, 
without  permission,  or  without  seeking  a  separate  knife 
or  plate,  claimed  a  share.  We  asked  for  a  glass  of 
wine ;  a  glass  was  literally  supplied,  and  the  decanter 
restored  to  its  place.  When  our  repast  was  over,  we 
still  waited  in  the  bar-room,  and  must  have  shown  some 
of  the  awkwardness  of  strangers.  At  length  our  host 
was  conscious  of  this,  and  came  with  an  apology  for 
having  forgotten  to  show  us  to  a  sitting-room.  We  were 
then  introduced  to  a  handsome  withdrawing-room,  which  ^ 
was  open  to  other  residents  at  the  hotel. 


Whil 
nets,  yc 
of  the 
cellent. 
The  brt 
not   con 
bountifu 
a  disordt 
meal,  on 
i    very  wel 
:    the  cons< 
how  read 
■   mitted  to 
I  naming  J 
time,  and 
dependoni 
transatlan 
After  di 
;  desired  to 
i  walked  up 
i  street :   its 
length  ab 
I  well.     Th 
(in  some  m 
[of  churche 
jof  magnitu 
[first  impre 
jThe  habit 
3ther  shuli 
me  sun, 
fered  their 
po  prevalei 
lyself,  H( 
yi  Englisl 
i^ngland 
ndicative 
»ct  for  c 
idies,  wh( 
truck  me 


illlip 


FIRST    IMPRESSIONS. 


13 


I  exceed- 
,  was  but 

iprang  on 
sence  of 
f  interest 

f's  Hotel, 
as  we  un-    • 
ot.     They 
was  com- 
!9sing,  our 
lowledging 
r  the  great 
;8  renewed 
range  land, 
jxpressed  a 
,  on  coming 
I.     Nothing 
nto  the  bar- 
r  for  a  sum- 
'  last  I   ap- 
for  it.     The 
g,  placed  a 
se  before  us 
)  disappoint- 
,  we  partook 
ght,  at  least, 
,ut  while  we  \ 
ame  up,  and, 
iparate  knife 
r  a  glass  of 
the  decanter 
Araa  over,  we 
shown  some 
igth  our  host 
apology  for 
n.     We  were 
■room,  which 


While  I  give  you  this  incident  as  illustrative  of  man- 
ners, you  are  not  to  suppose  that  the  other  arrangements 
of  the  house  were  on  a  level  with  this  :  they  were  ex- 
cellent. But  the  case  was,  our  appetite  was  out  of  time. 
The  breakfast  hour  was  past,  and  the  dinner  hour  was 
not  come ;  and  the  American  inn,  while  it  provides 
bountifully  for  periodical  hunger,  has  no  compassion  for 
a  disorderly  appetite.  There  is  one  hour,  one  table,  one 
meal,  one  summons  ;  and  if  you  are  ready,  you  may  fare 
very  well ;  if  you  miss  the  opportunity,  you  must  digest 
the  consequences  as  you  can.  It  was  interesting  to  see 
how  readily  the  American,  with  his  love  of  freedom,  sub- 
mitted to  these  restraints,  while  John  Bull  insists  on 
naming  his  own  dinner,  at  his  own  table,  at  his  own 
time,  and  in  his  own  room.  He  has  certainly  more  in- 
dependence in  his  habits,  if  not  in  his  opinions,  than  his 
transatlantic  brethren. 

After  disposing  of  our  snack  and  our  host,  we  naturally 

desired  to  see  something  of  the  world  around  us.     We 

walked  up  the  Broadway.     It  is  every  way  the  principal 

street :    its   width  is  about   that  of  Piccadilly,  and  its 

length  about  two  miles  and  a  half.     It  meets  the  eye 

i  well.     The  straight  line  it  offers  to  the  sight  is  relieved, 

I  in  some  measure,  by  the  foliage  of  trees  and  the  towers 

of  churches,  while  it  conveys  to  the  imaginatioa  a  sense 

of  magnitude  and  importance  beyond  the  reality.     My 

[first  impressions  from  the  objects  were  such  as  these. 

[The  habitations,  from  frequently  having  the  Venetian  oi 

)ther  shutters  closed,  as  the  readiest  mode  of  excluding 

the  sun,  affected  me  painfully,  as  though  death  had  en- 

Jered  them.     The  ordinary  signs  of  health  could  not  be 

80  prevalent  as  with  us ;  for  I  was  continually  saying  to 

lyself.  How  ill  that  man  looks.     The  shops  are  not  at 

jill  English ;  they  are  Parisian ;  indeed,  nowhere  but  in 

Ingland  can  you  meet  with  that  shop-front  which  is  so 

idicative  of  wealth,  of  the  security  of  property,  and  of 

ict  for  catching  the  eye  of  the  hasty  passenger.     The 

idies,  who  were  using  the  Broadway  as  a  promenade, 

truck  me  as  of  less  stature  than  ours.     Those  who  as- 

3 


14 


NEW-YOUK. 


i;i 


pired  to  fashion,  used  Parisian  dresses ;  and  tliey  had  a 
mincing  tread,  which  was  meant  to  be  Parisian,  but  is 
certainly  not  so ;  it  is  affectation,  and  therefore  disagree- 
able. 

New- York  is  the  counterpart  of  Liverpool ;  they  have 
grown  remarkably  together.  At  no  very  distant  period, 
they  both  had  some  5,000  inhabitants;  they  have  ad- 
vanced almost  thousand  by  thousand,  and  are  now  nearly 
equal  in  population.  In  point  of  site,  Liverpool  has  the 
advantage.  It  springs  boldly  from  the  water,  and,  by  its 
various  elevation,  presents  more  picture  to  the  eye ; 
while  for  water  conveyance,  and  the  mere  purposes  of 
business,  the  advantage  is  with  New-York.  It  stands 
on  a  plane  only  sufficiently  inclined  to  ensure  a  good 
drainage,  and  of  course  supplies  great  facilities  for  the 
transit  of  goods.  At  present,  Liverpool  does  by  far  the 
greatest  amount  of  business ;  but,  because  New- York 
has  more  home  trade,  there  is  with  it  a  greater  show  of 
mercantile  activity  and  life. 

This  city  is  really  worthy  of  the  reputation  she  has  for 
the  frequency  of  the  fires.  There  were  six  to  my  knowl- 
edge in  ten  days.  They  appear  to  arise  partly  from 
wood  being  the  common  fuel,  which  is  less  safe  than 
coal ;  and  partly  from  flues  being  carried  through  frame- 
buildings,  which  is  very  hazardous.  Some,  however,  as 
with  ourselves,  are  intentional ;  persons  of  bad  principle 
and  embarrassed  circumstances  abuse  the  benefit  of  en- 
surance,  and  seek  to  save  themselves  by  fire,  reckless 
of  whom  they  destroy. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  day,  we  were  kindly  waited  on 
by  Drs.  Cox  and  Peters,  and  the  Rev.  W.  Patton.  They 
came  as  a  deputation  from  the  Third  Presbytery,  which 
was  then  in  session.  They  stated  that  they  were  in- 
structed to  invite  us  to  attend  its  sittings,  and  to  accept . 
of  accommodations  which  had  been  made  in  Mr.  Patton's 
family  in  expectation  of  our  arrival.  We  accepted  the 
invitations  in  the  spirit  in  which  they  were  given ;  and 
were  refreshed  by  intercourse  with  brethren  whom  we" 
had  known  and  esteemed  in  the  Father  Land. 


M 

ONtl 

rangemi 

}    the  inv: 

'    thirty  p< 

erator,  ir 

We  wei 

They  an 

our  comn 

ed  and  t 

terest. 

In  the 

license. 

He  read  i 

piety.     Ii 

that  the  e 

selves. 

.  to  the  sulf 

[  obtained,  J 

We  hal 

I  on  the  Sa] 

I  in  the  voj 

I I  was  ar, 
[which  1  f(j 
jour  stay 
]tended  at 

giving  anc 
on  our  ace 

hing  the  gjj 

|o  an  act 

F  God ; 

[esemblanj 

I  he  order! 


THE    PRESBYTERY. 


15 


ey  had  a 
in,  but  is 
disagree- 

hey  have 
nt  period, 
have  ad- 
ow  nearly 
ol  has  the 
ind,  by  its 

the  eye; 
irposes  of 

It  stands 
ure  a  good 
ties  for  the 
I  by  far  the 
New-York 
er  show  of 

I  she  has  for 
p  my  knowl- 
partly  from 
IS  safe  than 
ough  frame- 
however,  as 
ad  principle 
enefit  of  en- 
iire,  reckless 


ly  waited  on 
itton.     They 
)ytery,  which 
hey  were  in- 
ind  to  accept 
iMr.  Patton's 
accepted  the 
given;  and 
ren  whom  we"  | 
ind. 


LETTER  II. 

Mv  DEAR  Friend, 
On  the  following  day,  according  to  the  previous  ar- 
rangement, we  changed  our  habitation,  and  did  honour  to 
the  invitation  of  the  Presbytery.  There  were  about 
thirty  persons  present.  We  were  received  by  the  Mod- 
erator, in  the  name  of  the  body,  with  affectionate  respect. 
We  were  glad  to  observe  their  methods  of  business. 
They  are  similar  to  those  with  which  we  are  famiUar  in 
our  committee  meetings.  Several  subjects  were  discuss- 
ed and  disposed  of ;  but  they  were  only  of  ordinary  in- 
terest. 

In  the  afternoon  a  young  man  was  on  trial  for  his 
license.     His  examination  at  this  sitting  was  theological. 
He  read  a  theme  which  discovered  fair  talent  and  true 
piety.     It  was  pretty  closely  discussed,     I  could  see 
that  the  examiners  were  not  quite  agreed  among  them- 
selves.    This  circumstance  gave  an  unnatural  perplexity 
to  the  subject,  as  well  as  to  the  person  examined.     He 
obtained,  however,  the  favourable  suffrage  of  his  brethren. 
We  had  declined  all  application  for  ministerial  service 
on  the  Sabbath  after  our  arrival.     I  had  suffered  so  much 
in  the  voyage  as  to  leave  me  unfit  for  it ;  and  besides, 
I  was  anxious   to  improve   an  occasion   for   hearing, 
jwhich  1  foresaw  it  would  be  more  difficult  to  secure  as 
jour  stay  advanced.     On  the  morning  of  the  day  we  at- 
:ended  at  Laight-street  Church,  and  united  in  the  thanks- 
giving and  prayers  which  Dr.  Cox  affectionately  offered 
in  our  account.     It  was  an  affecting  thing,  afler  traver- 
ling  the  great  deep,  to  commit  one's  self  for  the  first  time 
[o  an  act  of  worship,  in  a  strange  land,  with  the  people 
if  God ;  and  it  was  the  more  affecting  from  the  strong 
resemblance  it  has  to  what  we  most  enjoy  at  home, 
'he  order  of  service,  the  singing,  the  hymns,  the  tunes, 


16 


FREE    CHURCH. 


I- 


H- 


the  sermon,  the  devout  aspect  of  the  congregation,  were 
as  our  own.  It  brouglit  one  directly  into  a  state  of  feU 
lowship  ;  it  destroyed  the  sense  of  distance,  uiid  disposed 
one  feelingly  to  say, 

•»  No  more  a  strangpr  or  a  guflst, 
But  liko  a  child  at  home," 

In  the  evening  of  the  day  we  went  to  the  opening  of 
a  free  church.  Of  the  nature  of  this  class  of  provision 
for  the  religious  wants  of  the  people,  I  shall  have  occa- 
sion to  speak  in  another  connexion.  It  was  to  be  open- 
ed by  a  protracted  meeting,  running  through  the  week  ; 
and  Mr.  K.,  an  active  revivalist  preacher,  was  to  take 
the  service.  We  had  reason  to  expect,  that,  at  such  a 
time,  he  would  try  the  effect  of  the  anxious  seat. 

The  exterior  of  the  church  was  void  of  all  taste  ;  but 
it  was  large,  and  apparently  well  built.  The  ground - 
tioor  was  fitted  up  for  schools :  the  superior  floor  was 
the  area  of  Uie  church  ;  and  although  this  was  at  an  ele- 
vation of  some  twenty  steps,  there  were  above  it  two 
tiers  of  galleries,  and  these  running  along  three  sides  of 
the  place.  It  would  accommodate  2000  persons ;  and 
I  suppose  1500  might  be  in  it.  The  service  was 
good  ;  the  sermon  very  good.  I  had  been  led  to  think 
that  I  might  hear  some  statements  which  might  be  deem- 
ed extravagant ;  but  there  was  in  this  exercise  nothing 
of  the  kind.  The  preacher  was  evidently  pious  and 
truly  in  earnest :  his  statements  were  plain  and  scriptural : 
his  appeals  were  popular,  appropriate,  and  direct  to  the 
conscience  and  the  heart.  The  impression  was  strong 
and  general  on  the  people. 

When  the  sermon  would  have  closed  with  us,  I  ob- 
served that  the  preacher  was  giving  his  remnrka  a  nev/ 
direction;  and  I  was  speedily  led  to  conclude,  thr^  he 
was  about  to  try  the  anxious  seat.  He  if  i; 'tid  lo 
justify  the  measure,  and  then  to  challenge  the  people  to 
use  it,  as  a  means  and  expression  of  religious  decision. 
Tl.e  persons  occupying  the  two  seats  immediately  before 
th'j  pulpit  were  requested  to  vacate  them,  that  the  anx- 


ANXIOUS    SEAT. 


17 


lous  might  .;  thorn.  Then  a  pause  'occurred  Two  or 
throe  females,  by  decrees,  appeared  on  1 1"'  end  <■'  \^ 
seat.  The  preacher,  with  some  of  the  awkwurdnoss  of 
disappointment  upon  him,  renewed   h,  -    addn  md 

urged  the  young  persons,  and  especially  the  young  men, 
to  decision,  and  to  this  mode  of  expressing  it.  Another 
pause  was  made  ;  but  no  young  men  came.  Dr.  L.,  the 
minister  of  the  church,  renewed  the  appeal ;  and  employ- 
ed rests  m  difft  i  ent  parts  of  it,  as  if  waiting  for  signs  of 
compli;  i  •  ;  xn  t  when  he  saw  that  no  greater  effect  was 
likelv  to  ImUo  \  iie  changed  the  terms  of  the  invitation, 
ar.d  !  ''prt'd  all  those  who  wished  to  be  prayed  for  to 
pome  forward.  He  then  gave  cut  a  suitable  hymn  ;  and 
vvliile  this  was  singing,  the  congregation  began  to  dis- 
perse ;  and  many  serious  persons,  as  might  be  expected, 
went,  before  the  pulpit  to  join  in  the  proposed  act  of 
prayer.  It  was  by  this  time  nearly  ten  o'clock,  and  we 
left  with  the  congregation. 

This,  then,  was  the  first  occasion  on  which  I  saw  the 
anxious  seat  employed  ;  and  if  employed,  I  can  hardly 
conceive  of  its  being  with  less  extravagance  or  more 
sagacity ;  but  it  was  certainly  a  failure.  Without  de- 
ciding here  on  the  abstract  merits  of  this  measure,  its 
adoption  in  this  instance  was  assuredly  bad.  The  ser- 
mon had  shed  seriousness  over  the  congregation,  and  had 
produced  tenderness  on  many ;  and  had  they  been  allow- 
ed to  retire  at  a  suitable  hour  for  reflection  in  their 
closets,  one  could  not  avoid  hoping  that  the  effect  would 
have  been  most  happy.  As  it  was,  I  had  deep  regret. 
When  it  was  felt,  indeed,  by  the  people,  that  the  seat 
was  to  be  used,  there  was  a  sensible  excitement  pro- 
duced, which  the  novice  might  commend,  but  which  the 
judicious  would  deprecate.  I  could  perceive  that  a  large 
portion  of  the  people  were  excited  to  see  how  others 
would  act  in  this  crisis,  and  were  thus  relieved  from 
thinking  of  themselves  ;  while  another  portion,  composed 
of  such  as  had  been  affected  by  the  discourse,  feared  that 
they  should  be  overcome  by  the  alarming  appeals  usual 
to  such  occasions,  and  by  diverting  their  attention,  stop- 

2* 


18 


MERCANTILE    DISTRESS. 


i< 
I     -I 


ping  their  ears,  or  a  suppressed  shuddering,  told  you  that 
they  were  hardening  themselves  into  resistance  as  weU 
as  they  could. 

But  I  must  offer  a  different  picture  to  your  attention. 
You  are  aware  that  the  time  of  our  arrival  in  New- York 
was  one  of  great  excitement.  Without  indulging  in  po- 
litical opinion,  it  may  be  understood  that  this  excitement 
wa«^  .  reated  by  some  decided  measures  recently  adopted 
by  tl..,  Government  relative  to  the  National  Bank.  Those 
measures,  whether  good  or  ill  in  their  issue,  had  so 
shaken  public  credit,  that  two  hundred  and  fifty  mercan- 
tile houses  were  p-ostrate  in  insolvency,  and  their  vibra- 
tions were  felt  in  the  remote  parts  of  Europe.  A  muni- 
cipal election  was  about  to  happen,  and  it  was  proposed 
to  make  a  matter  of  local  and  limited  interest  the  test  of 
opinion  on  the  policy  of  the  General  Government.  The 
polling  for  the  city  elections  is  taken  in  the  different 
wards,  and  it  usually  occurs  not  only  without  danger  to 
the  peace,  but  without  interruption  to  business.  On  this 
occasion,  however,  there  was  a  riot  in  one  of  the  wards. 
The  losing  party,  with  its  other  losses,  as  is  usual,  lost 
its  temper ;  and  when  it  could  not  succeed  in  obtaining 
votes,  set  itself  to  breaking  heads.  Some  twenty  per- 
sons were  seriously  hurt  in  the  affray.  A  slight  show 
of  military  power  prevented  farther  evil.  If  these  things 
were  to  happen,  I  was  not  sorry  to  see  them,  as  they  throw 
up  national  character  ;  but  the  good  citizens  were  greatly 
scandalized  that  such  scenes  should  disgrace  them  as 
had  never  happened,  they  said,  in  the  republic  before. 

The  Whigs,  as  the  friends  of  the  Bank  strangely  call- 
ed themselves,  although  they  had  not  the  majority  of  votes, 
considered  that  they  had  gained  the  victory  ;  and  they 
were  resolved  on  a  Whig  celebration.  I  readily  accepted 
a  ticket  of  admission,  as  it  enlarged  my  field  of  observa- 
tion. I  must  endeavour  to  place  it  before  you.  The 
place  of  celebration  was  the  Battery  ;  and  the  manner 
was  by  a  collation  and  speeches.  The  Battery  stands 
on  a  slip  of  open  ground  at  the  end  of  the  Broadway 
and  butting  on  the  Hudson  river.    It  is  now  dismantled; 


not  being 
recreatior 
thousand 
and  it  wa 
ceeded  in 
I        We  as( 
\    circle,  an( 
;    fitted  up 
i    tors.     W( 
which  wai 
the  port  b 
which  had 
here.     On 
flags,  woo 
painted  w 
number  of 
with  nothi 
ence  gave 
ed  to  be  m 
sel  which 
pared  befoi 
for  the  spe 
the  pauses 
were  floati 
Immediate 
national  fl; 
lation  of  tw 
orations  m 
placed  on 
of  liberty 
At  this 
gagements 
The    Ame: 
their  refrej 
tend  to  sue 
who  had  si 
giving  then 
and  the  re 
were  mad< 


III  ;f 


WHIG  CELEBRATION. 


19 


not  being  used  for  purposes  of  defence^fcut  for  those  of 
recreation  and  amusement.  When  we  arrived  many 
thousand  persons  were  assembled  within  and  without ; 
and  it  was  after  delay,  and  with  difficulty,  that  we  suc- 
ceeded in  making  an  entrance. 

We  ascended  to  the  bulwarks,  which  are  built  in  a 
circle,  and  are  usually  a  promenade,  but  which  were  now 
fitted  up  with  a  gallery  of  seats,  and  filled  with  specta- 
tors. We  looked  on  a  circular  area  of  large  dimensions, 
which  was  also  crowded  with  people.  Opposite  us  was 
the  port  by  which  we  entered,  and  over  it  some  rooms 
which  had  been  provided  for  the  officers  formerly  on  duty 
here.  On  the  roofing,  parapets,  and  abutments,  were 
flags,  wooden  guns,  and  a  rigged  vessel  surmounting 
painted  waves.  This  dumb  show  was  animated  by  a 
number  of  spectators,  whose  ambition  could  be  satisfied 
with  nothing  less  than  the  highest  point ;  but  their  pres- 
ence gave  a  ludicrous  air  to  the  whole,  as  there  appear- 
ed to  be  men  sitting  in  the  ocean,  and  upholding  a  ves- 
sel which  should  have  held  them.  A  balcony  was  pre- 
pared before  the  windows  of  the  rooms  I  have  named, 
for  the  speakers  ;  a  band  of  music  was  beneath,  to  fill  in 
the  pauses  ;  colours  were  displayed  in  all  directions,  and 
were  floating  gracefully  over  the  many-headed  multitude. 
Immediately  over  us,  and  opposite  the  rostrum,  was  the 
national  flag,  with  its  dark  blue  field  and  brilliant  constel- 
lation of  twenty-four  stars  ;  and  above  it,  that  all  the  dec- 
orations might  not  be  void  of  reality,  was  a  living  eagle, 
placed  on  a  perch,  and  fastened  by  the  leg,  as  the  emblem 
of  liberty  ! 

At  this  moment  there  was  a  pause  in  the  regular  en- 
gagements ;  but  the  good  people  were  by  no  means  idle. 
The  Americans,  who  are  quick  to  dine,  had  finished 
their  refreshments.  Many  were  evidently  ready  to  at- 
tend to  such  addresses  as  might  be  made  ;  but  many  also, 
who  had  sat  down  to  eat,  rose  up  to  play.  These  were 
giving  themselves  to  all  manner  of  practical  jokes.  Hats 
and  the  remnants  of  bread  were  fliying  about ;  ladders 
were  made  of  human  shoulders  to  convey  water,  and 


20 


WHIG  CELEBRATION. 


glasses,  and  bread,  from  those  in  the  area  to  those  in  th« 
galleries  ;  while  in  the  centre  of  the  picture  a  far  more 
earnest  group  were  surrounding  and  surmounting  some 
barrels  of  beer,  the  contents  of  which  they  were  exhaust- 
ing with  alarming  speed. 

A  cry  was  made  for  silence  and  attention.     The  music 
stopped ;  but  the  multitude  seemed   little    disposed  to 
listen.     A  carman,  with  his  frock  on,  came  to  the  balco- 
ny.    The  fellow-feeling  which  the  more  noisy  had  with 
him  disposed  them  to  attention.     That  class  of  persons 
in  New- York  is  thriving  and  respectable  ;  and  this  man 
was  one  of  the  best  of  his  class.     He  had  the  good  sense 
to  make  a  short  speech;  and  he  uttered  himself  with 
plain  sense,  stout  honesty,  and  especially  with  decision 
on  the  Whig  side  of  the  question.     Trade,  and  of  course, 
carts  and  wagons,  had  a  vital  interest  in  it.     When  he 
finished,  hurrahs  rang  round  the  bulwarks,  and  ascended 
into  the  air ;  and  that  nothing  might  be  wanting  to  the 
scene,  the  man  who  had  the  care  of  the  eagle  twitched 
the  string,  and  made  the  bird  flap  its  wings  over  the  as- 
sembly.    But  heroics  did  not  long  suit  them ;  they  eager- 
ly returned  to  gossip,  or  to  sport,  or  to  the  barrels  in  the 
centre  of  the  court,  which  were  still  rising  in  popular 
favour. 

Another  call  was  made,  and  one  of  their  orators  came 
forward.  He  had  no  doubt  claims  on  them,  from  his 
zeal  in  the  cause,  but  he  could  have  little  to  oratory,  or 
the  people  would  have  been  more  sensible  of  it.  He 
raised  a  stentorian  voice  ;  but  in  vain.  Those  at  the 
windows  and  beneath  him  gazed  and  shouted  ;  but  his 
words  died  in  his  own  atmosphere,  and  could  not  subdue 
the  conflicting  sounds  in  the  distance.  This  gave  a  new 
character  to  the  picture.  Speech-making  and  sport,  the 
grave  and  the  gay,  were  so  mixed  and  opposed,  as  to 
make  the  whole,  to  an  eye  like  Hogarth's,  exceedingly 
amusing  and  comical ;  while  the  numbers  of  the  meeting, 
the  beauty  of  the  thronged  amphitheatre,  opening  only 
into  the  bright  blue  heavens,  saved  it  from  the  trivial,  and 
made  it  interesting  and  delightful.     I  observed  it  for 


f 


I 


some  til 

the  asse 

I  sooi 

become 

1    abreast. 

••    Webster 

processit 

The  peo 

I  him.     H 

j   been  heai 

I   with  bow 

J  few  short 

[  received 

The  proc( 

As  this 

of  this  inti 

States.     [ 

than  I  hai 

and  there 

audible  es 

more,  cert! 

membered, 

memorativ( 

before  ther 

tention. 

We  to  thosi 

son  intoxi^ 

squabble, 

remarkablf 

nine  propril 

single  feml 

provoke  th( 

but  they  wj 

ready  done| 

town. 

The  evel 
T.'s.  Iwl 
sketch  of 


3  meeting. 


EVENINO   PARTY. 


21 


se  in  th« 
far  more 
ng  some 
exhaust- 

'he  music 
iposed  to 
he  balco- 
had  with 
f  persons 
this  man 
pod  sense 
iself  with 
I  decision 
of  course, 
When  he 
ascended 
;ing  to  the 
B  twitched 
ver  the  as- 
hey  eager- 
rels  in  the 
in  popular 

ators  came 
I,  from  his 
oratory,  or 
of  it.     He 
ose  at  the 
d  ;  but  his 
not  subdue 
gave  a  new 
d  sport,  the 
osed,  as  to 
jxceedingly 
he  meeting, 
)ening  only 
trivial,  and 
irved  it  fot 


some  time  ;  and  then,  as  the  more  respectable  portion  of 
the  assembly  was  moving  off,  I  prepared  to  leave  with  it. 

I  soon  found  myself  moving  with  a  body  which  had 
become  processional,  walking  in  order,  and  three  or  four 
abreast.  It  was  understood  that  the  celebrated  Daniel 
Webster  was  at  a  house  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  the 
procession  moved  in  that  direction  into  the  Broadway. 
The  people  gathered  about  the  residence  and  cheered 
him.  He  advanced  to  the  window.  He  could  not  have 
been  heard  in  a  speech,  and  therefore  contented  himself 
with  bowing,  and  throwing  out  at  the  top  of  his  voice  a 
few  short  sentences  as  watchwords  to  the  party.  They 
received  them  with  hurrahs,  and  passed  on  in  order. 
The  procession  must  have  been  quite  a  mile  in  length. 

As  this  was  the  first,  so  it  was  the  largest  assemblage 
of  this  interesting  people,  which  I  witnessed  while  in  the 
States.  There  was  less  of  dignity  and  gravity  about  it 
than  I  had  been  led  to  expect  from  so  grave  a  people  ; 
and  there  was  more  of  English  animation,  humour,  and 
audible  expression  of  opinion,  than  I  looked  for,  and 
more,  certainly,  than  is  usual.  It  is,  however,  to  be  re- 
membered, that  this  was  not  a  deliberative,  but  a  com- 
memorative occasion ;  and  there  was  no  crisis  directly 
before  them  to  point  the  speeches  or  to  quicken  the  at- 
tention. On  the  whole,  it  was  a  meeting  highly  credita- 
ble to  those  who  composed  it.  I  saw  not  a  smgle  per- 
son intoxicated;  nor  did  I  hear  afterward  of  a  single 
squabble,  or  of  a  pocket  spoiled  of  its  contents.  It  is 
[  remarkable,  too,  and  indicative  of  a  great  sense  of  femi- 
nine propriety,  that  I  saw  not  within  or  about  the  place  a 
single  female.  It  was  feared  that  the  meeting  might 
provoke  the  Tories  to  come  and  create  a  disturbance; 
but  they  were  satisfied  with  the  mischief  they  had  al- 
ready done,  and  remained  quiet  at  the  West  End  of  the 
[town. 

The  evening  of  this  celebration  day  was  spent  at  Mr. 
[T.'s.  I  wish  it  accorded  with  my  plan  to  give  you  a 
ksketch  of  the  party  which  we  had  the  gratification  of 
[meeting.     Suffice  it  to  say,  that  though  it  was  composed 


y 


38 


WASHINGTON. 


I.': 


of  the  friends  of  temperance,  there  was  no  want  of  ele- 
gant refreshments ;  that  though  composed  of  rehgious 
persons,  it  was  cheerful  and  refined ;  that  though  com- 
posed of  the  two  sexes,  there  was  no  want  of  case  in 
the  intercourse  or  variety  in  the  conversation  ;  and  that 
though  composed  of  Americans,  there  was  no  lack  of 
good-breeding  or  benevolent  attentions.  In  fact,  that  it 
was  the  reverse  of  every  thing  lately  held  up  to  ridicule 
under  the  denomination  of  "domestic  manners,"  and 
equal  to  any  thing  to  be  found,  of  its  own  grade,  in  the 
parent  country. 


LETTER  III. 

My  dear  Friend, 

I  MUST  now  take  you  with  me  to  Washington,  without 
pausing  to  expatiate  on  the  Hudson,  or  Philadelphia,  or 
Baltimore,  in  our  way.  A  more  favourable  opportunity 
will  occur  for  a  brief  notice  of  them. 

Among  the  advantages  of  our  speedy  passage  was 
the  redemption  of  time  ;  and  of  the  timo  so  redeemed  I 
was  anxious  to  make  the  best  possible  use.  It  appear- 
ed to  us  that  no  appropriation  of  spare  time  could  be 
better  than  that  of  employing  it  for  a  visit  to  the  capital, 
and  the  Congress  which  was  then  sitting ;  since  it  would 
not  be  possible  to  have  a  well-balanced  opinion  of  the 
country  we  were  visiting,  in  total  ignorance  of  the  char- 
acter and  proceedings  of  the  American  Parliament. 

It  took  us  three  days  to  overcome  the  distance.  The 
first  two  days  we  travelled  by  steamboat,  or  rail-road, 
and  very  pleasantly.  The  last  doy  was  mostly  consu- 
med in  going  from  Baltimore  to  Washington ;  we  were 
nearly  seven  hours  in  going  less  than  forty  miles,  and 
sometimes  with  six  horses.  The  road,  though  the  high- 
way to  the  capital,  was  exceedingly  bad  ;  in  many  parts - 


it  was  s 
others  it 
paving-st 
cept  that 
disposed 
This  w 
it  calls  f 
coach  wh 
strong,  to 
outside  pa 
I  each  seat 
of  externa 
elbow  upv\ 
;  canopy, 
i  shutters,  p 
tains  for  th 
^  well  in  the 
I  fortable  in 
seats  the  v 
[  hot,  we  ho] 
[cleared  the 
[large,  soug 
occupied  th 
jrected  his  i 
I  corners,  aru 
I  He  showed 
inot  regarde 
■had   the 
^•eed,"  and 
and  he  as 
[looked  on  n 
he  looked  o 
Bex,  he  put 
|nto  the  roa 
prised  at  th 
i^as  so  ofte 
vhh  him 
i^as  the  mo 
issue. 


!  Ill 


ThE  STAGECOACH. 


23 


rh  com- 
oase  in 
and  that 
lack  of 
t,  that  it 
ridicule 
rs,"  and 
e,  in  the 


n,  without 
ielphia,  or 
pportunity 

sage   was 
sdeemed  I 
It  appear- 
1  could  be 
!:ie  capital, 
ze  it  would 
ion  of  the 
f  the  char- 
tnent. 
nee.     The 
rail-road, 
ttly  consu- 
;  we  were 
miles,  and 
;h  the  high- 
many  parts. 


it  was  several  inches  deep  in  dust  and  sand,  and  in 
others  it  was  clogged  with  loose  stones  as  big  as  our 
paving-stones.  No  excuse  could  be  offered  for  this,  ex- 
cept that  they  were  constructing  a  rail-road,  and  so  were 
disposed  to  consign  it  to  premature  ruin. 

This  was  the  first  time  of  using  their  stagecoach,  and 
it  calls  for  notice.     It  is  very  like   the   single-bodied 
coach  which  you  have  seen  in  France.     It  is  heavy  and 
strong,  to  meet  the  condition  of  the  roads.     It  carries  no 
outside  passengers  ;  but  it  has  three  seats  within,  and 
each  seat  receives  three  persons.     To  atone  for  the  want 
of  external  accommodation,  it  is  open  all  round,  from  the 
elbow  upwards,  and  the  roof  takes  the  appearance  of  a 
canopy.     If  you  wish  to  be  enclosed,  there  are  sliding 
shutters,  partially  glazed,  to  the  doors,  and  leather  cur- 
tains for  the  other  openings  ;  a  provision  that  may  do  very 
well  in  the  summer,  but  which  must  be  far  from  com- 
fortable in  the  really  cold  weather.     When  we  took  our 
seats  the  vehicle  was  not  full :  and  as  the  day  was  very 
:  hot,  we  hoped  not  to  be  crowded ;  but  before  we  had 
cleared  the  skirts   of  the  town,  three  men,  rough  and 
[large,  sought  admittance.     Myself  and  an  elderly  lady 
occupied  the  back  seat,  and  the  stoutest  of  the  three  di- 
irected  his  movements  towards  us.     We  retired  into  our 
corners,  and  left  him  what  room  we  could  in  the  middle 
jHe  showed  some  desire  for  the  outer  seats  ;  but  this  was 
[not  regarded,  and  he  took  his  place.     I  soon  saw  that  he 
Ihad   the    abominable    habit  of  chewing  the   "noisome 
j^eed,"  and  began  to  fear  for  myself  and  the  good  lady  ; 
ind  he  as  soon  began  to  look  about  him  for  relief     He 
[looked  on  my  side  ;  I  sat  forward  and  looked  very  grave  ; 
le  looked  on  the  lady,  and  regarding  her  as  the  weaker 
sex,  he  put  his  head  forward  and  spat  across  her  face 
Into  the  road.     Nobody,  not  even  the  lady,  seemed  sur- 
prised at  this,  though  she  must  have  been  annoyed.     It 
^as  so  often  repeated  as  to  induce  her  to  change  seats 
nth.  him  ;  and  T  fear  it  must  be  said  that  the  annoyance 
7diS  the  more  readily  renewed  in  the  hope  of  such  an 
Issue. 


:'F" 


24 


WASHINGTON. 


On  the  whole,  it  was  an  unpleasant  ride.  The  country 
was  not  interesting  ;  and,  what  with  the  heat  of  the  day, 
the  dust  of  the  road,  the  crowded  state  of  the  coach,  and 
our  slow  progress,  we  were  rendered  weary  and  unwell. 
We  were  glad  to  be  set  down  at  Gadsby's  Hotel,  which 
is  very  large,  has  good  accommodations,  and  would  be  all 
you  could  desire  if  somewhat  cleaner. 

In  the  morning  I  did  not  find  myself  much  refreshed 
by  rest.  The  glass  had  dropped  down  from  80°  to  70"^, 
and  being  chilly  and  feverish,  I  determined  to  take  a 
tepid  bath,  and  was  directed  to  an  estabhshment  at  the 
back  of  the  hotel  for  that  purpose.  It  was  certainly  a 
poor  affair  for  such  a  place  as  Washington.  An  old 
woman  with  the  occasional  help  of  her  daughter,  was  in 
attendance.  She  showed  me  to  a  room.  It  was  a  mere 
closet,  with  a  wooden  bath,  a  brick  floor,  and  no  fire- 
place ;  and  the  passage  was  the  waiting-room.  She  be- 
gan to  supply  it  w  ith  water ;  but  I  saw  she  had  no  guide 
to  the  heat.  I  said,  "  I  want  it  at  90  degreos." — "  It 
will  do,  sir,"  was  her  reply.  Unsatisfied,  I  said,  "  Have 
you  no  thermometer  1" — "  0  no ;  it  was  broke  time 
ago." — "  It  is  a  strange  thin?'/'  I  said,  "  to  have  a  batli 
establishment  and  no  thermometer !" — "  O,"  she  cried. 
"  I'sc  can  tell,  as  is  used  to  it — It's  blood  heat — I  know 
it's  blood  heat."  And  so  saying  she  left  me.  I  tried 
it;  it  was  96°  or  98°.  Tliis  was  not  all.  Another 
gentleman  came  and  ordered  a  bath.  The  cocks  leaked : 
so  that  when  the  hot  water  was  turned  on  his  bath  from 
the  main  pipe,  it  began  to  flow  into  mine,  and  I  was  in 
danger  of  getting  hotter  than  I  wished.  There  was  no 
bell ;  and  my  only  remedy  was  in  quitting  it  earlie;  than 
I  designed. 

Washington  is  well  placed  on  a  fork  of  the  Potomac, 
The  plan  of  the  city  is  magnificent ;  it  is  laid  down  in 
right  lines,  answering  to  the  cardinal  points  of  the  com- 
pass, and  these  are  intersected  by  diagonal  lines  to  pre- 
vent a  tiresome  uniformity  of  aspect.  It  is  a  city  that  is 
to  be,  however ;  and  is  never  likely  to  become  what  was 
intended,  as  its  distance  from  the  sea,  and  other  disad- 


} 


vantages 
waiting  t 
It  is  com 
but  from 
I  meanness 

■V- 

I  unfinishec 
'I  the  utmoi 
I  about  her 
I  does  not 
'  is  a  city 
I  cending  xi 
buildings 

the  Capito 
120  feet 

would,  ind 

growth  of 

We  wer 

I  minister  of 

on  our  rei 

against  usi 

an  inn.     \1 

and  passec 

my  memory 

Our  first] 

acquainted] 

[anxious  to 

jof  Represeil 

f  sight, 
large  room! 

arble  cohj 

hairman,  1 
■he  straighl 

ould  findf 
leats  of  tl 

gallery 
he  half  cii 

hole  ple£ 

cupied ; 

Vol.  I.. 


<te 


WASHINGTON. 


25 


1  country 
the  day, 
lach,  and 
I  unwell. 
3I,  which 
aid  be  all 

refreshed 

p  to  7o^ 

o  take  a 
nt  at  the 
jrtainly  a 
An  old 
er,  was  in 
,as  a  mere 
d  no  fire- 
She  be- 
i  no  guide 
jps," — "  It  * 

id, "  Have 
)roke  time 
ave  a  bath 
she  cried, 
it — I  know 
3.     I  tried 
Another 
;ks  leaked ; 
3  bath  from 
id  I  was  in 
ere  was  no 
earliei  than 

le  Potomac, 
aid  down  in 
of  the  corn- 
Lines  to  pre- 
a  city  that  is 
ae  what  was 
other  disad- 


vantages, deny  it  the  benefits  of  commerce.  While  it  is 
waiting  to  be  something  better,  it  appears  less  than  it  is. 
It  is  computed  to  have  a  population  of  30,000  persons ; 
but  from  the  width  of  the  streets,  with  the  comparative 
meanness  of  the  buildings,  and  from  the  scattered  and 
unfinished  state  of  every  thing,  you  would  think  10,000 
the  utmost  amount.  There  is,  too,  a  want  of  timber 
about  here,  which  gives  a  nakedness  to  the  picture  that 
does  not  please  you,  and  leaves  you  in  doubt  whether  it 
is  a  city  shrinking  from  its  dimensions  into  ruin,  or  as- 
cending upwards  to  life  and  magnificence.  The  only 
buildings  of  importance  are  the  President's  house  and 
the  Capitol ;  and  these  are  connected  by  an  avenue  some 
120  feet  wide,  and  about  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  which 
would,  indeed,  be  fine,  if  it  were  sustained  by  a  fine 
growth  of  timber,  or  fine  lines  of  habitations. 

We  were  quickly  found  out  by  Mr.  Post,  the  excellent 
minister  of  the  first  Presbyterian  church,  and  he  insisted 
on  our  removing  to  his  dwelling;  urging  that  it  was 
against  usage  in  America  to  allow  clergymen  to  stay  at 
an  inn.  We  met  his  kindness  with  returning  confidence, 
jand  passed  several  days  in  his  family — days  to  which 
imy  memory  will  always  revert  with  pleasure. 

Our  first  concern  was  to  visit  the  Capitol,  and  become 

[acquainted   with    the    Congress,    and    our   friend   was 

[anxious  to  secure  to  us  every  advantage.     The  Chamber 

lof  Representatives  is  always  regarded  as  the  chief  object 

>f  sight.     It  is  indeed  highly  imposing.     It  is  a  very 

large  room,  with  its  roof  sustained  by  tv»renty-four  fine 

larble  columns  of  grand  dimensions.     The  President,  or 

chairman,  has  a  raised  and  canopied  seat  in  the  centre  of 

the  straight  line,  with  more  glitter    about  it  than  you 

rould  find  about  the  British  throne  ;  and  the  desks  and 

seats  of  the  members  diverge  from  it  in  radiating  lines. 

gallery  runs  behind  the  pillars,  through  the  course  of 

the  half  circle.     The  general  impression  was  not  on  the 

?hole  pleasing.     Less  than  one  third  of  the  place  was 

;cupied ;  and  the  empty  space  and  large  proportions  of 

Vol.  I B  3 


% 


26 


CHAMBER    OF    REPRESENTATIVES. 


■J 
is 

I 


I 


the  room  give  a  diminutiveness  and  insignificance  to  the 
persons  present. 

There  was  not  much  of  interest  in  this  house  at  the 
time.  But  I  heard  one  speech  that  was  certainly  long, 
and  that  was  considered  to  be  good.  The  speaker  rose 
from  his  desk ;  his  speech  lay  written  before  him  ;  he 
delivered  it,  however,  without  much  reference  to  the 
document,  and  with  a  strong  voice  and  energetic  man- 
ner. But  it  was  all  a  forced  effort,  and  of  necessity  it 
was  such.  No  one  listened  to  him,  and  he  seemed  to 
expect  no  one  to  listen.  It  wao  understood  by  both  par- 
ties that  he  was  using  the  house  as  a  medium  of  speech 
to  his  constituents  across  the  Alleganies ;  and  they 
seemed  content  to  have  it  so.  It  is  in  this  way  that  the 
floor  is  occupied  here  for  t-  o  or  more  days  together; 
and  that  the  most  importaiit  business  of  the  State  is 
postponed  or  neglected,  while  the  house  is  afflicted  with 
speeches  which  none  will  hear,  and  which  are  meant  to 
be  pamphlets  that,  with  few  exceptions,  none  will  read. 

The  celebrated  Colonel  Crockett  made  an  advance  on 
this  vicious  usage,  and  it  would  be  a  great  relief  if  his 
proposal  were  acted  on.  It  is  said  he  rose  and  claimed 
the  notice  of  the  chair,  and  stated  that  he  had  many 
times  tried  to  obtain  the  floor,  but  had  been  so  unfortu- 
nate as  not  to  succeed  ;  that  he  was  now  leaving  to  visit 
his  constituents ;  and  as  he  could  not  then  deliver  his 
speech,  he  begged  to  know  whether  he  might  publish  it 
as  a  speech  intended  to  have  been  delivered  in  the  Con- 
gress. People  were  so  uncandid,  however,  in  the 
colonel's  case,  as  to  think  this  was  a  mere  trick ;  and 
that  he  wanted  to  impress  the  public  with  a  belief  that 
he  had  sought  an  opportunity  to  make  an  important 
speech,  but  had  not  been  able  to  find  it,  when  in  fact  he 
had  no  such  speech  to  deliver. 

The  Senate  Chamber  is  of  far  less  size,  and  of  no  pre- 
tensions ;  but  it  is  well  adapted  to  its  uses,  and  there- 
fore gives  thr  eye  satisfaction.  All  the  interest,  too,  at 
this  time,  was  here.     The  larger  house  had  agreed  to 


MEMBERS    OF    CONGRESS. 


27 


sustain  the  President  in  his  measures  against  the  Bank ; 
but  in  tlie  Senate,  some  strong  resolutions  had  been 
adopted  against  them.  The  President  sent  down  a  pro- 
test on  the  subject,  and  the  excitement  was  raised  to  the 
highest.  The  occasion  called  up  all  their  best  speakers ; 
and  if  they  spoke  with  less  preparation,  they  spoke  under 
those  present  impulses  which  throw  out  a  man's  best 
thoughts  in  'lis  best  manner.  It  was  really  a  fine  oppor- 
tunity. 

Were  it  not  that  one  is  aware  what  confusion  will 
arise  among  shrewd  men,  by  the  action  of  strong  party 
prejudices  and  sudden  excitation,  it  would  have  been 
concluded  that  this  deliberative  body  had  very  small 
knowledge  of  the  laws  of  debate.  The  discussion  soon 
turned  from  the  principal  subject  to  a  point  of  order,  and 
strange  to  say,  it  was  two  days  in  disposing  of  this  point 
of  order.  The  party  opposed  to  the  protest  proposed 
some  resolutions  to  the  effect  that  the  protest  be  not  re- 
ceived, and  for  reasons  contained  in  the  protest.  Their 
object  was  to  prevent  the  protest  being  entered  on  the 
records ;  but  their  resolutions  made  it  necessary.  The 
other  party  saw  this  error,  and  proposed,  as  an  amend- 
ment, that  the  word  not  be  omitted,  and  for  reasons  con- 
tained in  the  protest ;  so  that  which  ever  way  they  dealt 
with  it,  they  would  do  what  the  objecting  party  wished  to 
avoid — place  the  protest  on  the  minutes. 

None  of  them  could  see  their  way  out  of  this  !  They 
contended  that  the  protest  was  received,  and  that  it  was 
not  received ;  that  no  amendment  could  be  proposed 
which  was  a  contradiction  to  the  original  proposition : 
they  applied  to  the  chair ;  they  applied  from  the  chair  to 
the  senate  ;  and  from  the  senate  back  again  to  the  chair ; 
till  they  were  more  than  thrice  confounded. 

The  Senate  is  now  unusually  rich  in  distinguished 
men.  In  this,  and  some  following  discussions,  we  heard 
most  of  them :  Clay,  Webster,  Calhoun,  Clayton,  Leigh, 
Ewing,  Frelinghuysen,  and  Forsyth.  I  should  like  to 
give  you  a  sketch  of  these  men,  as  they  dwell  in  my 
memory,  but  opportunity  fails  me ;  and  perhaps  I  might 

B2 


S8 


CONGRESH. 


do  them  some  injustice  if  I  attempted  any  tiling  more  than 
general  impression,  from  such  slight  opportunities  of  know- 
ing them.  Suffice  it  to  say,  Clay's  strength  is  in  popular 
address  ;  Webster's,  in  cool  argument ;  Calhoun's,  in  his 
imagination,  and  his  weakness  too ;  FreUnghuysen's,  in 
his  truly  Christian  character;  Swing's,  in  his  stout 
honesty,  notwithstanding  his  bad  taste  and  false  quo- 
tations ;  and  Forsyth's,  in  his  vanity — certainly,  in  my 
eye,  the  very  image  of  self-complacency. 

On  the  whole,  I  was  much  gratified  in  becoming  ac- 
quainted with  the  Congress  of  this  great  empire.  Yet  I 
must  candidly  admit,  that  it  fell  somewhat  below  my  ex- 
pectations. In  its  presence  I  was  not  impressed,  as  I 
think  I  should  have  been  in  tho  presence  of  the  men  who 
signed  the  Declaration ;  and  my  eye  wandered  over  the 
assembly,  anxiously  seeking  another  Washmgton,  who, 
by  his  moral  worth,  mental  sagacity,  and  unquestionable 
patriotism,  should,  in  a  second  crisis,  become  the  confi- 
dence and  salvation  of  his  country ;  but  it  wandered  in 
vain.  Such  a  one  might  have  been  there  ;  the  occasion 
might  bring  out  many  such ;  but  I  failed  to  receive  such 
an  impression.  Nor  do  I  think,  on  the  whole,  that  the 
representation  is  worthy  of  the  people.  It  hus  less  of  a 
religious  character  than  you  would  expect  from  so  re- 
ligious a  people ;  and  it  has  also  less  of  an  independent 
character  than  should  belong  to  so  thiiving  a  people. 
But  as  matters  stand,  it  is  now  only  a  sacrifice  for  the 
thriving  man  to  be  a  member  of  Congress ;  while,  to  the 
needy  man,  it  is  a  strong  temptation.  In  this  state  of 
things,  it  is  not  wonderful  that  the  less  worthy  person 
should  labour  hard  to  gain  an  election  ;  or  that,  when  it 
is  gained,  he  should  consider  his  own  interests  rather 
than  those  of  his  constituents.  The  good  Americans 
must  look  to  this,  and  not  suffer  themselves  to  be  ab- 
sorbed in  the  farm  and  merchandise  ;  lest,  on  an  emer- 
gency, they  should  be  surprised  to  find  their  fine  country, 
and  all  its  fine  prospects,  in  the  hands  of  a  few  ambitious 
and  ill-principled  demagogues. 

It  was  pleasing  to  find  that  a  number  of  the  membexs. 


were  forn 
smaller  n\ 
religious 
whose  mi 
ence,  hnv( 
elusion  th 
institutions 

Before 

sketch  it? 

abrupt  on 

ficial.     Tl 

The  erect 

though  sti 

posed  of 

graced  wii 

the  portici 

more  so,  f 

to  them. 

the  roof. 

It  is,  howe 

ing,  and  t 

effect.     T 

which  was 

of  Italy,  I 

would  saj 

basin  of  w 

The  Pr 

and  the  tv 

niusofthe 

erection  i 

resembles 

gentlemar 

of  Washi 

chief  maj 

Our  ki 

many  lett 

them  was 

we  had  n 

by  one  o 


PRESIDENTS    HOUSE. 


29 


"! 


were  formed  into  a  Temperance  Society ;  and  that  a 
smaller  number  were  accustomed  to  meet  weekly  for 
religious  exercises.  Many  of  the  elder  members  too, 
whose  minds  are  certainly  not  under  a  religious  influ- 
ence, have,  since  the  days  of  Jefferson,  come  to  a  con- 
clusion that  religion  is  essential  to  the  stability  of  their 
institutions.     This  is  salutary. 

Before  leaving  the  Capitol,  do  you  expect  that  I  should 
sketch  it  ?  It  stands  on  a  swell  of  land,  which  is  so 
abrupt  on  one  side  as  to  have  the  effect  of  being  arti- 
ficial. The  inclination  should  be  made  far  less  acute. 
The  erection  is  of  very  large  dimensions,  approaching, 
though  still  very  distant,  to  our  St.  Paul's.  It  is  com- 
posed of  two  wings  and  a  centre  ;  and  the  centre  is 
graced  with  steps,  portico,  and  dome.  The  columns  of 
the  portico  are  too  slender ;  and  they  are  made  to  look 
more  so,  from  the  oppressive  flights  of  steps  which  lead 
to  them.  The  smaller  domes  and  semicircular  lights  in 
the  roof,  are  dissights  which  might  readily  be  avoided. 
It  is,  however,  with  these  and  other  faults,  a  grand  build- 
ing, and  everywhere  in  the  distance  has  a  very  striking 
effect.  There  is,  in  its  principal  front,  a  monument 
which  was  prepared  in  Italy.  It  is  not  only  unworthy 
of  Italy,  but  of  America.  Were  the  names  not  on  it,  it 
would  say  nothing ;  and,  worse  than  all,  it  stands  in  a 
basin  of  water. 

The  President's  house  is  the  reverse  of  the  Capitol; 
and  the  two  places  might  be  supposed  to  indicate  the  ge- 
nius of  the  people.  It  has  no  pretensions  ;  but  is  a  plain 
erection  in  the  Grecian  style  ;  and,  in  size  and  aspect, 
resembles  greatly  the  modern  dwelling  of  our  country 
gentleman.  It  is,  however,  not  unsuitable  to  the  claims 
of  Washington,  and  the  other  provisions  made  for  the 
chief  magistrate  by  the  constitutions 

Our  kind  friends  had  taken  care  to  supply  us  with 
many  letters  of  introduction  for  Washington,  and  among 
them  was  one  for  the  President.  If  we  had  intended, 
we  had  no  occasion  to  use  it.  An  intimation  was  made 
by  one  of  the  household  that  the  President  would  have 

3* 


30 


VISIT  TO   Tlin    PHHWIDENT. 


pleasure  in  receiving  a  call  from  us.     It  was  of  course 

accepted.     It  was  in  the  evening  of  the  day ,  and  Mr* 

Post  was  with  us.     We  were  rfctived  with  respect,  but 

without  formality.     The  President  is  tall ;  full  six  feet 

in   height.      He   stoops    now,  ami   is   evidently    feeble. 

The  thermometer  was  at  72°,  but  he  was  near  a  strong 

fire.     He  is  sixty-eight  years  of  age.     He  is  soldier-like 

and    gentlemanly  in   his    carriage ;   his  manners  were 

courteous  and  simple,  and  put  us  immediately  at  ease 

with  him.     He  conversed  freely ;  chielly  of  the  older 

country,  as  interesting  to  us.     He  expressed  pleasure  at 

the  growing   intercourse  between  the  countries ;  at  the 

arrival  of  ourselves  as  a  deputation  in  evidence  of  this ; 

and  at  the  prospect  there  vas  of  continued  peace,     He 

spoke  of  the  Banking  queslion  also  without  reserve.     He 

thought  there  was  a  resemblance  between  the  state  of 

the  moneyed  interest  in  America,  and  its  state  with  us  in 

1825,  and  was  desirous  of  information.     We  conversed 

of  it   freely,  and  for  some  time.     Without  judging  his 

opinions,  with  which,  as  •^'ey  are  political,  I  have  nothing 

to  do  in  this  communication,  my  impression  was,  that  he 

held  them  with  a  strong  conviction  that  they  were  right, 

and  beneficial  for  the  country.     After  remaining  about 

half  an   hour,  we  took   our  leave,  with   very  pleasant 

recollections  of  our  interview. 

Some  days  afterward  we  received  an  invitation  to 
dine  with  the  President.  By  this  time  the  excitement  on 
the  Bank  question  had  risen  very  high ;  and  it  was  re- 
ported that  his  dwelling  was  guarded  by  troops,  from 
fear  of  assault  on  his  person.  Instead  of  which  there 
was  less  of  form  than  before.  When  we  arrived,  the 
entrance-doors  were  open ;  and  on  being  conducted,  by 
a  single  servant,  to  what  we  thought  an  ante-room,  we 
found  the  general  himself  waiting  to  receive  us.  We 
were  soon  led  into  the  dining-room.  The  table  was  laid 
only  for  six  persons ;  and  it  was  meant  to  show  us  re- 
spect, by  receiving  us  alone.  Mr.  Post,  whom  the 
President  regards  as  his  minister,  was  requested  to  im- 
plore a  blessing.     Four  men  were  in  attendance,  and  at- 


I 


WOUSIIII'     AT    MR.    post's. 


31 


course 
id  Mr. 
:t,  but 
X  feet 
feeble, 
strong 


A 


\ 


tpndcd  well.  Every  thing  was  good  and  sufficient ; 
nothing  overcharged.  It  was  a  moderate  and  elegant 
repast. 

After  dinner,  wo  retired  to  the  drawing-room.  Con- 
versation was  there  renewei. ;  and  by  the  general  on  the 
Bank  affairs.  It  was  a  delicate  subject ;  we  passed  from 
it  to  other  interests  of  the  new  country.  On  leaving,  the 
President  inquired  of  our  route  ;  and  when  he  found  that 
I  was  designing  to  travel  into  the  west,  very  obligingly 
pressed  me,  if  I  should  visit  Tennessee,  to  tarry  at  the 
Hermitage,  the  name  of  his  estate  in  that  country,  and  to 
which  he  retires  in  the  summer. 

The  President  regularly  attends  on  public  worship  at 
Mr.  Post's,  when  he  is  well.     On  the  following  Sabbath 
morning  I  was  engaged  to  preach.     Himself  and  some 
fifty  or  sixty  of  the  Congress  were  present.     His  manner 
was  very  attentive  and  serious.     When  the  service  had 
ended,  I  was  a  little   curious  to  see  how  he  would  be 
noticed.     I  supposed  that  the  people  would  give  way, 
and  let  him  pass  out  first,  and  that  a  few  respectful  in- 
clinations of  the  head  would  be  offered.     But  no ;  he 
was  not  noticed  at  all ;  he  had  to  move  out,  and  take  his 
turn  like  any  other  person,  and  there  was  nothing  at  any 
time  to  indicate  the  presence  of  the  chief  magistrate. 
You  might  be  disposed  to  refer  this  to  the  spirit  of  their 
institutions ;    but   it  has  a  closer    connexion   with    the 
character  of  the  people.     They  have,  in  most  of  the 
States,  less  aptitude  to  give  expression  to  their  senti- 
ments than  the  English.     When  afterward  the  general 
was  passing  through  Lexington,  on  his  way  home,  where 
a  strong  feeling  existed  on  the  part  of  the  merchants 
against  him,  I  inquired  if  any  marks  of  disapprobation 
were  offered  to  him.     The  reply  was,  "  O  no,  we  merely 
kept  out  of  his  way,  and  allowed  him  to  change  horses, 
and  go  on  without  notice."     I  think  it  may  be  safely  said 
that  John  Bull  would   have  acted  differently  in  both 
cases :  in  the  one,  he  would  have  offered  some  decided 
marks  of  respect ;  and  in  the  other,  he  would  not  have 
been  backwarid  to  show  that  he  was  offiended. 


32 


WIND-STORM. 


It  was  at  Washington  we  first  saw  the  slave-pen.  It 
is  usually  a  sort  of  wooden  shed,  whitewashed,  and  at- 
tached to  the  residence  of  a  slave-dealer.  Slaves  are 
bought  up  here,  as  at  other  places,  to  forward  to  the 
south :  the  gain  is  considerable,  and  the  inducement  in 
proportion.  The  slaves  have  great  horror  of  this.  One 
poor  woman,  who  was  expecting  to  be  thus  transferred, 
lately  escaped ;  and  on  being  pursued,  she  jumped  over 
the  bridge,  choosing  death  rather  than  such  a  life.  But 
I  shall  have  other  opportunities  for  this  subject :  let  it  be 
sufficient  to  remark,  that  here  these  enormities  are  the 
more  flagrant,  as  they  are  acted  under  the  eye  of  the 
Capitol,  a  capitol  for  ever  echoing  with  "  Rights  of  man," 
"  The  essential  equality  of  man,"  and  a  thousand  such 
expressions. 

There  are  here  a  great  many  of  the  coloured  people 
who  are  free  ;  and  they  appear  to  thrive.  They  attend 
in  large  numbers  to  worship,  and  have  lately  purchased 
the  place  in  which  Mr.  Post's  congregation  did  formerly 
assemble.  I  attended  on  one  occasion :  it  was  full,  and 
they  were  very  serious.  They  are  Episcopal  Methodists ; 
their  bishop  was  with  them,  and  they  were  holding  a  con- 
ference. It  was  a  high  time.  It  was  remarkable  to 
have  a  white  person  among  them.  On  leaving,  they 
were  happy  to  be  spoken  to  and  free  to  converse.  I  also 
was  happy  to  realize  that  they  held  with  us  a  common 
faith  and  the  common  hope  of  salvation. 

While  at  Washington,  I  first  witnessed  the  wind- 
storm, which  is  common  in  this  country.  It  is  peculiar 
— sometimes  awful.  The  morning  had  been  iiot,  and  the 
sky  fair ;  I  had  been  to  the  Senate,  and  was  now  resting 
and  writing  in  my  chamber.  Quietly  the  soft  and  re- 
freshing breezes  went  down ;  a  haze  came  over  the  sun, 
so  that  it  shone  as  behind  a  gauze  curtain.  Every  noise 
was  stilled,  except  that  of  the  frog,  which  was  unpleas- 
antly audible.  The  sky  got  silently  darker  and  darker ; 
the  atmosphere  became  oppressive  ;  and  not  a  breath  of 
air  was  felt.  Suddenly,  in  the  distance,  you  would  see 
things  in  commotion;  and,  while  every  thing  was  yet 


I      ;   '■; 


ft 


MOUNT  VERNON. 


33 


quiet  about  you,  you  might  hear  the  distant  roaring  of  the 
wind.  Then  the  cattle  run  away  to  their  best  shelter ; 
then  the  mother  calls  in  her  heedless  children ;  and  the 
housewife  flies  from  story  to  story,  to  close  her  windows 
and  shutters  against  the  entrance  of  the  coming  foe. 
Now  the  dust,  taken  up  in  whirlwinds,  would  come  fly- 
ing along  the  roads ;  and  then  would  come  the  rush  of 
wind,  which  would  make  every  thing  tremble,  and  set  the 
doors,  windows,  and  trees  flying,  creaking,  and  crashing 
around  you.  You  would  expect  the  torrent  to  fall  and 
the  thunder  to  roll ;  but  no,  there  was  neither  rain  nor 
thunder  there.  It  was  wind,  and  wind  alone ;  and  it 
wanted  nothing  to  increase  its  power  on  the  imagination. 
It  raged  for  a  few  minutes,  and  then  passed  as  suddenly 
away,  leaving  earth  and  sky  as  tranquil  and  as  fair  as  it 
found  them.  It  is  not  easy  to  account  for  this  very  sud- 
den destruction  and  restoration  of  an  eqivlibrium  in  na- 
ture. The  phenomenon,  however,  supplies  a  fine  illus- 
tration of  some  striking  passages  in  holy  Scripture. 

We  spent  one  day  with  Dr.  Laurie  before  we  left  the 
city.  He  is  a  Scotchman,  and  happy  to  commune  with 
any  from  the  parent  land.  He  has  been  many  years 
here,  in  the  Presbyterian  church,  and  holds  an  office  un- 
der government ;  but  he  has  lost  none  of  his  nationality. 
He  was  kind  enough  to  take  us  to  Georgetown.  Here 
is  a  Catholic  seminary  of  some  celebrity :  it  is  a  great 
help  to  the  Catholic  interest,  and  is  nourished  from 
Europe.  It  is  said  that  the  bishop  of  the  district  has 
lately  received  25,000  dollars  from  the  pope.  We 
paused  to  take  refreshment  at  Colonel  Bumford's,  for  the 
sake  of  knowing  an  amiable  family  ;  of  seeing  a  nice  cot- 
tage, in  somewhat  English  style,  situated  on  a  beautiful 
estate,  commanding  fine  views  of  the  river  and  of  the 
city.  We  afterward  rode  over  the  heights ;  and  I  was 
thankful  to  our  friend  for  this  excursion,  as,  without  it, 
we  should  not  have  formed  so  just  an  opinion  of  Wash- 
ington and  its  vicinity. 

We  could  not  quit  this  neighbourhood  without  visit- 
ing Mount  Vernon,  the  place  where  Washington  lived 

B3 


I  ' 


'( r 


34 


TOMB    OF    WASHINGTON. 


and  died,  and  is  entombed.  We  left  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, with  Mr.  Post,  by  steamboat  to  Alexandria.  This 
tuwn  is  on  the  margin  of  the  river.  It  presents  what  is, 
in  this  country,  an  unusual  spectacle  of  a  place  in  a 
state  of  declension.  It  had  a  population  of  10,000  per- 
sons, but  it  has  now  not  more  than  7,000,  and  there  is 
an  air  of  desolation  on  it.  We  engaged  a  carriage  here 
to  take  us  to  Vernon,  a  distance  of  nine  miles ;  and  we 
were  two  hours  and  a  half  going,  with  good  cattle. 
However,  it  was  a  fine  spring  morning ;  the  hill-sides 
were  pretty  ;  most  of  our  way  was  through  the  forest, 
and  the  woodlands  were  bursting  into  life.  We  were 
not  sorry  to  feel  that  we  were  getting  out  of  the  world ; 
and  were  much  delighted  with  the  number  of  wild- 
flowers  which  were  expanding  to  the  sun.  The  ground- 
honeysuckle,  and  the  brilliant  dogwood,  especially  en- 
gaged us. 

About  a  mile  and  a  half  before  you  reach  the  house, 
we  entered  the  estate.  It  is  in  fact  a  continuation  of  the 
forest ;  as  wild,  as  quiet,  and  as  beautiful.  We  were 
received  by  a  black  servant,  old  and  worn  out  in  the  ser- 
vice of  the  family.  We  presented  our  cards,  and  the 
servant  was  instructed  to  attend  us  over  the  grounds. 
We  walked  quietly  round.  They  assorted  with  our  feel- 
ings. Every  thing  had  an  appearance  of  desertion  and 
decay.  No  hand  of  repair  had  seemed  to  have  passed 
over  the  cottage,  the  garden,  the  plantations.  We  were 
about  to  visit  the  dead,  and  all  was  dying  around  us,  ex- 
cept only  vegetation,  and  that  had  been  allowed  to  grow 
so  thick  and  high,  as  to  throw  heavy  shadows  and  quiet 
solemnity  on  all  things. 

At  length  we  descended  a  bank,  and  stood  before  the 
tomb  of  Washington.  It  is  built  of  brick,  with  an  iron 
door.  All,  except  the  face  of  the  vault,  is  hidden ;  it  is 
grown  over  with  dwarf  cedar  and  forest-trees.  I  cannot 
tel)  you  my  emotions.  I  chiefly  longed  for  hours  to  rest 
there  in  silence  and  solitude. 

We  went  to  the  cottage.  The  interior  was  in  har- 
mony with  all  the  external  appearances.     We  were  re- 


'      SUPREJ 


IN  DISAS 


FAMILY    OF    VVASHINGTuN. 


35 


le  morn- 
,.  This 
what  is, 
ace  in  a 
OOO  per- 

there  is 
age  here 

and  we 
d  cattle, 
lill-sides 
le  forest, 
We  were 
e  world ; 
of  wild- 
5  ground- 
:ially  en- 

le  house, 
ion  of  the 
kVe  were 
i\  the  ser- 
$,  and  the 

grounds. 

our  feel- 
irtion  and 
ve  passed 
We  were 
nd  us,  ex- 
d  to  grow 
and  quiet 

before  the 
th  an  iron 
den ;  it  is 
I  cannot 
ars  to  rest 


ceived  in  the  library ;  it  was  just  as  the  general  had  left 
it.  We  saw  the  curiosities  :  they  were  just  where  he 
had  placed  them.  The  inmates,  too,  were  affectingly  in 
keeping.  Three  females  :  a  widow,  an  orphan,  and  an 
unprotected  sister.  And  they  moved  and  spoke  as  if 
the  catastrophe  had  just  happened,  and  they  had  dried  up 
their  tears  to  receive  us.  I  shall  never  forget  that  day. 
I  have  had  more  pleasure  and  more  melancholy  ;  but  I 
never  had  more  of  the  pleasure  of  melancholy. 

Mrs.  Jane  Washington  was  indisposed ;  but  she  sent 
us  kind  messages  as  to  Englishmen,  and  some  small  re- 
membrances of  the  place  and  the  departed.  We  wound 
our  way  quietly  from  the  cottage,  and  we  soon  left  the 
domain,  perhaps  for  ever,  which  was  once  dignified  by 
the  presence,  and  which  is  still  sacred  by  the  remains  of 
Washington : — 

washington, 

the  brave,  the  wise,  the  good  .* 

washington, 

supreme  in  war,  in  council,  and  in  peace  : 

washington, 

valiant  without  ambition ;  discreet  without 

fear;  and  confident,  without  presumption: 

washington, 

in  disaster  calm;  in  success  moderate;  in  all 

HIMSELF : 

WASHINGTON, 

THE  HERO,  THE  PATRIOT,  THE  CHRISTIAN; 

THE  FATHER  OF  NATIONS,  THE  FRIEND  OF  MANKIND  ; 

WHO, 

WHEN  HE  HAD  WON  ALL,  RENOUNCED  ALL  ; 

AND  SOUGHT, 

IN  THE  BOSOM  OF  HIS  FAMILY  AND  OF  NATURE 

RETIREMENT  ; 

AND  IN  THE  HOPT  OF  RELIGION, 

IMMORTALITY. 


I  i 


Forgive  me,  my  dear  friend,  this  ebullition.     I  never 


36 


TEMPERATURE. 


I':    '■ 


can  turn  lo  the  name  of  Washington  without  enthusiasm. 
But  I  will  glance  at  a  more  sober  and  worldly  view  of 
the  case.  It  is  said  the  government  made  an  offer  to 
purchase  the  property  of  the  family.  How  could  they 
make  such  an  offer !  How  nijble  it  was  in  the  family  to 
decline  it,  since  it  would  have  brought  them  moneyed  ad- 
vantage, and  they  are  in  confined  circumstances  !  Again : 
How  can  the  people  suffer  the  place  to  pass  to  ruin,  and 
the  remnants  of  the  family  to  exist  without  the  means  of 
sustaining  it  1  Surely,  if  the  people  of  America  really 
knew  the  state  of  the  case,  they  would  rather  sell  New- 
York  than  suffer  such  things  to  happen. 


LETTER  IV. 

Mv  DEAR  Friend, 

We  remained  nine  days  at  the  capital ;  and  might  have 
remained  longer  to  advantage,  but  the  meetings  at  New- 
York  were  coming  on,  and  it  was  needful  to  hasten 
th'.ther.  I  looked  to  these  meetings  with  something 
more  of  confidence  and  pleasure  now,  as  my  strength 
was  considerably  recruited ;  although  I  was  still  suffer- 
ing from  cold  and  partial  loss  of  voice.  This  cold  was 
brought  on  by  oi.e  of  those  sudden  changes  of  tempera- 
ture to  which  this  climate  is  subject.  On  the  previous 
day  to  our  arrival  at  Washington,  the  glass  was  at  80°, 
and  the  day  before  we  quitted  it,  it  was  at  48° ;  and  we 
Were  shivering  with  cold,  and  thankful  for  good  fires. 
Later  than  this,  even  in  the  middle  of  May,  it  was  colder 
stiU  ;  we  had  severe  frosts,  which  cut  off  all  the  fruit ; 
and  snow  fell  in  abundance  in  the  State  of  New-York. 

On  returning  to  the  place  which  we  considered  our 
home,  we  were  received  into  the  family  of  Mr.  Boorman, 
of  Washington  Square  ;  an  arrangement  kindly  suggested 
by  Dr.  Cox,  and  none  could  have  aflbrded  us  more  real 
tomfort. 


We  fc 
Sabbath, 
fection  oi 
issue  onl 
was  fixec 
a  new  ch 
cration  o: 
we  shoui 
collectior 
appoint  tl 
The  churi 
result  of ; 
20,000  d( 
It  was  ve 
As  the 
tided  mai 
communit 
method  ai 
their  cong 
to  entertai 
may  com] 
some  elde 
is  inserte 
visiting 
ded ;  and 
of  referen 
prepared 
cants  are 
rangemen 
that  accoi 
the  reques 
not  learn 
because  h 
that,  what 
appointme 
ministers 
were  nece 
house. 
To  faci 


ANNIVERSARIES. 


37 


We  found  ourselves  fully  engaged  for  the  following 
Sabbath,  the  4th  of  May ;  but  in  consequence  of  the  af- 
fection of  voice  from  which  I  still  suffered,  I  could  in  the 
issue  only  answer  for  a  portion  of  my  engagements.  I 
was  fixed  to  preach  in  the  evening  at  the  consecration  of 
a  new  church  in  Brooklyn.  What  is  called  the  conse^ 
cration  of  a  church  among  the  Presbyterians  is  only  what 
we  should  call  an  opening ;  and  as,  at  this  opening,  a 
collection  was  to  be  made,  I  was  very  unwilling  to  dis- 
appoint them.  The  occasion  was  an  interesting  one. 
The  church  was  handsome,  and  well  built.  It  was  the 
result  of  a  revived  state  of  religion  in  the  place.  It  cost 
20,000  dollars,  and  would  accommodate  1,200  persons. 
It  was  very  full. 

As  the  week  of  anniversaries  opened,  there  were  de- 
cided marks  of  activity  and  engagement  in  the  religious 
community.  Previously,  too,  a  wise  regard  is  had  to 
method  and  accommodation.  The  pastors  give  notice  to 
their  congregations,  that  those  persons  who  are  desirous 
fo  entertain  one  or  more  ministers  during  the  meeting,^ 
may  communicate  their  intentions  either  to  himself  or 
some  elder  appointed  for  that  service.  A  counter-notice 
is  inserted  in  the  newspapers,  to  inform  the  ministers 
visiting  at  the  time,  that  accommodation  will  be  provi- 
ded ;  and  directing  them  where  to  apply.  At  the  place 
of  reference  an  entry  is  made  of  all  the  friends  who  are 
prepared  to  accommodate  ;  and  the  names  of  the  appli- 
c.ints  are  filled  in  as  they  apply.  The  whole  of  this  ar- 
rangement is  effected  on  Christian  principle,  and  it  is  on 
that  account  effectual.  Of  course,  a  respect  is  had  to 
the  requests  of  friendship,  where  they  exist ;  but  I  could 
not  learn  that  a  minister  ever  failed  of  accommodation 
because  he  was  either  poor  or  unknown  ;  nor  could  I  find 
that,  whatever  might  be  the  numbers,  any  suffered  dis- 
appointment. There  must  have  been  from  300  to  400 
ministers  at  this  time  in  New- York ;  but  I  believe  none 
wore  necessitated  to  sojourn  at  the  hotel  or  the  lodging- 
house. 

To  facilitate  also  the  attendance  of  strangers  and  the 


Af 


38 


ANNIVERSARIES. 


community  generally,  a  small  map  is  prepared  of  that 
portion  of  the  city  which  is  to  be  the  theatre  of  pious  in- 
terest and  activity  ;  and  cards  are  printed  containing  a 
table  of  the  meetings.  I  insert  a  copy  of  one  ;  which, 
although  it  does  not  embrace  the  meetings  of  Baptists, 
Methodists,  or  Episcopalians,  will  show  that  the  week  is 
by  no  means  an  idle  one. 


I   f 


"FIRST  OF  MAY. 

"  Anniversary  Week. — The  following  is  a  complete  list  of 
the  meetings  for  the  Anniversary  Week,  so  far  as  we  have  been 
able  to  asceitain  : — 

"  Monday,  May  5. 

"  American  Seamen's  Friend  Society,  at  Chatham-street 
Chapel,  half  past  7  o'clock  p.  m. 

"American  Anti-Slavery  Society  ;  meeting  of  Delegates  at 
Society's  rooms,  130  Nassau-street,  4  p.  m. 

"  Tuesday,  May  6. 

"  American  Anti-Slavery  Society,  at  Chatham-street  Chap- 
el, 10  o'clock  A.  M. 

"  Revival  Tract  Society,  at  Third  Free  Church,  corner  of 
Houston  and  Thompson-streets,  4  p.  h.,  and  in  the  evening. 

"  Convention  of  Delegates,  American  Tract  Society,  4  p.  m., 
at  Society's  house. 

"American  Peace  Society,  at  Chatham-street  Chapel,  4  p.  m. 

"New-York  Sunday  School  Union,  at  Chatham-street 
Chapel,  half  past  7  p.  m. 

"  Children  of  the  Sabbath  Schools  appear  in  the  Park  at 
half  past  3  p.  m. 

"  Wednesday,  May  7. 

"  American  Tract  Society,  at  Chatham-street  Chapel,  10  a.  m. 

"  Delegates  to  American  Bible  Society,  at  Society's  house, 
4  p.  M. 

"  New-York  Colonization  Society,  at  Chatham-street  Chap- 
el, 4  p.  M. 

"American  Home  Missionary  Society,  at  Chatham-street 
Chapel,  half  past  7  p.  m. 

"Delegates  to  American  Bible  Socty,  at  the  Bible  House, 
4  p.  M. 

"  American  Baptist  Home  Missionary  Society,  at  Mul- 
berry-street Church,  7  p.  m. 


ANNIVERSARIES. 


39 


"  Thursday,  May  8. 
"American  Bible  Society,  at   Chatham-street  Chapel,    10 

A.  H. 

"Directora  of  American  Hohe  Missionary  Society,  at  their 
rooms  in  the  Tract  House,  4  p.  m. 

"  Seventh  Commandment  Society,  at  Chatham-street  Chapel, 
4  p.  M. 

"  Presbyterian  Education  Society,  at  Chatham-street  Chap- 
el, half  past  7  p.  m. 

"American  and  Presbyterian  Education  Society  united. 

"  Friday,  May  9. 

"Meeting  for  the  Foreign  Mission  Board,  at  Chatham-street 
Chapel,  10  a.  m. 

"New-York  City  Temperance  Society,  at  Chatham- street 
Chapel,  half  past  7  p.  m. 

"  New-York  Infant  School  Society,  in  Canal-street  Church, 

10  A.  M. 

"  Morning  prayer-meetings  will  be  held  at  half  past  5  o'clock 
on  Tuesday,  Wednesday,  Thursday,  and  Friday,  in  Chatham- 
.street  Chapel,  and  in  Mr.  Patten's  church,  Brooinc-street,  near 
Broadway." 

Had  I  leisure,  it  would  not  be  desirable  that  I  should 
attempt  to  describe  all  these  meetings  :  for  they  are  very 
similar  to  each  other,  and  indeed  very  like  our  own :  but 
I  wilt  endeavour  to  place  one  before  you  as  a  sample  of 
the  whole,  as  I  believe  this  has  not  yet  been  done  by  any 
friendly  hand.  Do  not,  however,  expect  that  it  should 
equal  in  magnitude  what  we  have  seen  in  Surrey  Chapel 
or  Exeter  Hall ;  for  this  would  not  be  just.  The  States 
have  at  present  no  metropolis  ;  the  interest  of  their  meet- 
ings, therefore,  is  divided  among  several  places,  rather 
than  concentrated  in  one,  as  it  is  in  London.  However, 
if  I  succeed  in  placing  it  properly  under  your  eye,  you 
will  not  think  it  inconsiderable.  If  it  does  not  equal  our 
central,  it  surpasses  most  of  our  provincial  meetings. 

The  Societies  creating  the  most  interest  are  tWe  Tract, 
the  Home  Missioa,  the  Education,  the  Bible,  and  the 
Foreign  Missionary.  The  last  of  these  was  the  last  in 
order ;  but,  as  it  surpassed,  perhaps,  all  in  impression,  it 
i«  to  this  I  will  refer. 

The   ordinary  place    of  meeting  is   Chatham-street 


40 


ANNIVERSARIES. 


•t. 


m 


,  , 

; 

•  ■ 

i;  ■      - 

.  ,1 

!  i 

■ 

1         1'' 

1 

r 

il 
III 

Chapel.  The  place  was  a  theatre  ;  it  has  been  purchased 
and  converted  into  a  free  church  ;  and  it  is,  on  the  whole, 
deemed  the  best  adapted  to  the  purposes  of  public 
meetings.  It  has,  like  Zion  Chapel,  strong  indica- 
tions of  what  were  its  original  uses.  The  platform  of 
the  stage  remains.  In  the  centre  of  the  front  line  of  the 
stage  is  a  roomy  pulpit.  From  the  foot  of  the  pulpit 
springs  a  gallery  of  seats,  which  rises  backwards  to  the 
external  walls,  and  fills  the  whole  space  over  the  stage. 
This  is  reserved  for  the  ministers  ;  and  when  it  is  filled 
by  them,  it  presents  to  the  eye,  as  you  pass  up  the  aisles, 
a  striking  and  impressive  object.  On  reaching  the  plat- 
form, and  turning  round,  you  have  a  face  of  things  pre- 
sented to  you  somewhat  resembling  what  it  would  be  in 
a  similar  position  in  Spafields  Chapel.  There  is  a  con- 
siderable area,  and  over  it  two  tiers  of  galleries.  The 
place,  I  should  think,  will  contain  2,000  persons  ;  and 
filled,  as  it  was  on  this  occasion,  there  could  not  be  less 
than  2,500. 

At  this  meeting  of  the  Foreign  Mission  Society,  the 
Hon.  John  C.  Smith  presided.  Dr.  Proudfit  was  called 
on  to  open  the  proceedings  by  prayer.  Dr.  Wisner  then, 
as  Secretary  to  the  Society,  was  looked  to  for  a  report 
of  its  state  and  prospects.  This  was  not  the  occasion 
on  which  that  Society  makes  it  full  annual  report ;  it  was 
an  auxiliary  exercise,  and  the  statement  made  was  a 
mere  abstract.  That  abstract,  however,  was  wisely 
given  ;  it  was  brief,  clear,  discriminating,  and  made  to 
turn  on  vital  and  great  principles  of  hope  and  of  action ; 
and  it  was  delivered,  not  by  dry  and  hasty  reading,  but 
with  freedom  and  cogent  earnestness. 

Mr.  Winslow,  an  excellent  missionary,  who  had  re- 
turned from  Ceylon,  followed.  He  gave  an  interesting 
account  of  the  condition  of  missionary  work  in  India, 
with  much  pious  feeling,  and  urged  for  support  in  cor- 
respondence with  the  opening  prospects.  A  very  good 
impression  was  made  by  his  f  peech;  shown  not  in  audi- 
ble admiration  of  the  man,  but  in  silent  appreciation  of 
Ihe  subject. 


ANNIVERSARIES. 


41 


Dr.  Beman  supported  his  resolution  in  a  speech  of  dif- 
ferent character,  but  not  of  contrary  effect.  It  was  ar- 
gumentative, but  popular,  serious,  and  v  ^ent,  embracing 
large  views  of  a  great  subject,  and  makmg  strong  claims 
on  the  conscience.  The  temper  of  the  meeting  was  fully 
sustained  by  his  address. 

I  was  expected  to  follow  him  with  another  resolution. 
I  began  by  referring  to  my  responsibility,  for  at  that 
moment  I  deeply  felt  it.  What  was  said  was  received 
with  the  greatest  indulgence  and  attention ;  and  I  was 
thankful  if  it  did  not  disturb  or  allay  the  state  of  feehng 
which  happily  existed. 

After  a  slight  pause,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Blagden,  of  Boston, 
rose,  and  referring  to  the  felt  state  of  the  meeting,  pro- 
posed that  contributions  should  be  immediately  made, 
and  that  we  should  resolve  ourselves  into  a  prayer-meet- 
ing, to  seek  the  especial  blessing  of  God  on  our  object 
and  ourselves.  The  president  and  one  or  two  senior 
members  about  the  chair  thought  that  they  had  better  first 
pass  through  the  usual  and  remaining  business.  Thi^ 
•was  conceded.  Messrs.  Alder,  Matheson,  Bethune,  and 
Dr.  Spring,  followed.  They  spoke  under  some  discul- 
vantage.  The  general  feeling  required  not  to  be  excited 
by  continued  appeal ;  but  rather  to  be  relieved  by  devout 
supplication.  The  business  was  disposed  of.  Notice 
was  given  that  contributions  should  be  sent  to  the  col- 
lectors of  the  several  congregations  ;  and  I  was  request- 
ed to  close  the  meeting  in  prayer.  I  sought  to  be  ex- 
cused, but  in  vain.  It  was  a  most  solemn  and  delight- 
ful occasion.  The  profound  silence  showed  that  all 
were  engaged  in  one  act ;  and  sweet  and  refreshing  tears 
were  shed  ir.  abundance.  That  time  is  worth  a  thousand 
ordinary  ones  ;  it  stands  out  in  the  places  of  memory  as 
Bethel  did  in  the  recollections  of  the  patriarch,  never  to 
be  forgotten ! 

Happy  as  the  service  was,  it  was  generally  regretted 
that  the  suggestion  made  by  Mr.  Blagden  was  not  acted 
upon.  Some  5,000  dollars  would  certainly  have  been 
added  to  the  funds  of  the  Society ;  and  such  an  occasion, 

4* 


42 


ANNIVERSARIES. 


I 


I 


1    |: 


BO  seldom  occurring,  improved  by  special  prayer,  might 
have  led  to  extraordinary  results.  To  plead  order  under 
such  circumstances,  and  to  prevent  the  exercise  of  reli- 
gious feeling,  is  reducing  order  to  formality,  and  turning 
the  good  irto  an  evil.  However,  the  feeling  was  so 
strong  after  the  disappointment  it  had  suffered,  and  after 
the  expression  which  had  been  given  to  it,  that  before 
the  meeting  separated,  it  was  resolved  to  open  two 
places  for  special  prayer  on  the  following  Sabbath  even- 
ing. These  meetings  were  thronged,  and  most  serious 
and  interesting. 

The  meetings  were  mostly  held  in  the  morning  and 
evening ;  commencing  at  ten  and  half  past  seven,  and 
finishing  at  an  uncertain  time.  The  evening  meetings 
closed  about  ten  o'clock,  and  the  morning  about  two  ; 
the  one  I  have  described  finished  at  half  past  two.  The 
meetings,  as  a  whole,  were  pronounced  to  be  more  in- 
teresting than  they  had  ever  been,  and  this  was  said  in 
connexion  with  the  assurance  that  they  had  been  much 
longer.  The  morning  meeting  had  previously  seldom 
exceeded  two  hours  or  two  hours  and  a  half.  The  so- 
cieties which  were  not  so  fully  supported,  and  which  met 
in  the  evening,  threw  some  singers  into  the  gallery  be- 
hind the  rostrum,  and  relieved  the  meeting  by  one  or  two 
musical  compositions.  This  was  not,  to  my  taste,  an 
improvement.  Had  the  whole  assembly  been  challen- 
ged to  sing,  as  an  expression  of  the  feeling  which  pos- 
sessed it,  it  would  have  been  natural  and  beautiful ;  as 
it  was,  it  appeared  too  theatrical.  It  was  a  common 
thing  to  prepare  printed  slips,  with  the  resolutions  and 
names  of  the  mover  and  seconder,  as  a  bill  of  fare. 

Generally,  the  meetings  were,  in  my  judgment,  de- 
lightful. There  was  more  spirit  and  efficiency  in  them 
than  I  had  been  taught  to  expect ;  or  than  one  might 
reasonably  expect,  in  the  remembrance  that  the  platform 
meeting  is  of  later  date  with  them  than  with  us.  They 
are  in  no  way  inferior  to  our  meetings  at  Bristol,  Liver- 
pool, or  Manchester ;  and  in  some  respects  they  are  per- 
haps superior.     They  have  fewer  men  that  speak ;  but 


then  th 

8peech( 

and  mo 

claptraf 

men  wh 

determi 

they  loc 

man  wh 

pun,  an 

haps,  as 

do  not  1 

action,  t 

indeed, 

signs,  ti 

meetings 

ly  put  d 

has  a  w( 

find,  in  ( 

that  he  i 

on  his  li| 

with  wh( 

silence 

heaven. 

Two 

dismisse 

one  of  t 

and  the 

early  pra 

town. 

At  ler 
it  was,  ii 
any  simi 
worthy 
which  a 
in  the 
|>oor  8to( 


ANNIVERSARIES. 


then  they  have  fewdi-  formal,  inappropriate,  and  turgid 
speeches.  There  may  be  with  us  more  play  of  talent, 
and  more  beauty  of  period  ;  but  with  them  there  is  less 
claptrap,  less  trifling,  and  no  frivolity.  They  meet  as 
men  who  have  a  serious  business  in  hand,  and  who  are 
determined  to  do  it  in  a  manly  and  serious  manner ;  and 
they  look  with  wonder  and  pity  on  the  impertinence  of  a 
man  who,  at  such  a  time,  will  seek  to  amuse  them  with 
pun,  and  humour,  and  prettiness.  The  speakers,  per- 
haps, ask  more  time  to  prepare  than  in  England,  but  they 
do  not  lean  more  on  their  notes ;  and  if  they  have  less 
action,  they  do  not  create  less  interest.  That  interest  is, 
indeed,  not  expressed  as  with  us,  by  strong  and  audible 
signs,  till  one's  head  aches.  I  witnessed,  in  all  the 
meetings,  but  one  burst  of  this  kind,  and  that  was  severe- 
ly put  down  by  a  rigid  chairman.  But  if  the  speaker 
has  a  worthy  theme,  and  if  he  is  worthy  of  it,  he  shall 
find,  in  commending  it  to  the  judgment  and  the  heart, 
that  he  is  addressing  himself  to  a  people  who  can  wait 
on  his  lips  with  ir*.elligent  smiles,  and  silent  tears,  and 
with  what,  after  ali,  perhaps,  is  the  highest  compliment,  i 
silence  itself — deep  and  sublime — ^like  the  silence  of  I 
heaven. 

Two  things  should  be  remarked  before  this  subject  is 
dismissed  from  your  attention.  The  first  is,  that,  at  no 
one  of  these  meetings,  was  a  public  collection  made  ; 
and  the  other  is,  that,  in  connexion  with  all  of  them, 
early  prayer-meetings  were  held  at  different  parts  of  the 
town. 

At  length  this  busy  week  came  to  its  close.  A  week 
it  was,  in  which  I  had  made  more  acquaintance  than  in 
any  similar  period  of  time ;  in  which  the  dwelling  of  our 
worthy  host  was  made  too  much  like  a  house  of  call ;  in 
which  a  field  of  service  was  opening  before  us,  not  only 
in  the  States,  but  over  the  Canadas  ;  and  in  which  my 
poor  stock  of  strength  was  perfectly  exhausted. 


44 


MORRISTOWN. 


LETTER  V. 

My  dear  Friend, 

I  HAVE  now  to  introduce  you  to  new  and  different 
scenes.  Hitherto  we  had  seen  nothing  of  the  rural  pop- 
ulation ;  nor  had  we  found  an  opportunity  of  marking 
the  effects  of  a  very  recent  revival.  Morristown,  which 
is  some  thirty  miles  from  New-York,  and  in  the  State  of 
New-Jersey,  supplied  the  double  occasion  ;  and  our  kind 
friend  Mr.  Phelps,  partly  to  meet  this  desire,  and  partly 
from  a  benevolent  concern  to  relieve  me  from  the  pres- 
sure of  too  many  engagements,  proposed  to  take  us 
thither.  We  readily  accepted  his  offer,  and  left  on  Sat- 
urday for  that  place. 

We  went  by  a  steamer  to  Elizabethtown,  and  from 
thence  by  a  coach,  which  was  waiting  the  arrival  of  the 
boat.  The  road  was  bad,  and  the  run  heavy  ;  but  the 
country  was  varied  and  pretty,  and  all  the  objects  were 
new.  Apple-orchards  prevail  greatly  about  here.  That 
fruit  has  been  cultivated  extensively  and  profitably  for 
distillation ;  but  the  Temperance  Society  has  destroyed 
the  trade.  I  saw,  on  the  roadside,  a  good-sized  house 
just  finished,  and  placed  on  stilts,  with  this  notice  on  it : 

"  TO    BE    SOLD    AND    REMOTED    AT    THE    DIRECTION    OF    THE 

PURCHASER.^' 

Morristown  is  beautifully  located.  It  is  placed  on 
ridges  of  land,  vvhich  drop  away  into  the  valleys.  The 
scattered  cottages  run  round  a  green  of  irregular  form, 
and  having  the  Presbyterian  Church  as  a  centre-piece ; 
and  from  the  green  they  run  off  again  into  the  different 
avenues  which  lead  to  it,  and  are  half  concealed  among 
the  trees.  The  cottages  are  what  is  called  frame  build- 
ings ;  they  have  a  frame  or  skeleton  of  wood  ;  and  this 
is  clothed  externally  with  feather-edged  boarding.     The 


roof  is  c 
slate,  m: 
is  of  wo 
brick, 
green  Vt 
look  prel 
was  rais 
springing 
the  from 
material, 
tion  of  th 
Not  b( 
edge  of  £ 
inns  on  t 
arranges 
and  we  v 
went  to 
Church ; 
tion  of  R 
Church,  a 
The  m 
gagement 
of  health, 
and  of  q 
one's  juc 
ministers 
Mr.  Malli 
somewhai 
In  the 
Church, 
little  grou 
light  waj 
which  ha( 
were  all 
did  not  er 
I  should 
exercises 
read  his 
the  duty 


SABBATH    AT    MORRISTOWN. 


45 


roof  is  covered  with  shingle  ;  which  is  a  sort  of  wooden 
slate,  made  either  of  pine  or  cedar.  Every  thing  indeed 
is  of  wood  except  the  chimneys,  which  are  carried  up  in 
brick.  When  they  are  kept  nicely  painted,  and  have 
green  Venetian  shutters,  ah  is  mostly  the  case  here,  they 
look  pretty,  and  will  endure  a  long  time.  The  church 
was  raised  of  the  same  materials  ;  with  a  tower  and  spire 
springing  from  the  ground,  and  forming  a  projection  on 
the  front  elevation  of  the  edifice.  This  is  the  usual 
material,  and  the  usual  form  given  to  it,  in  the  construc- 
tion of  the  rural  church. 

Not  being  expected  here,  nor  having  even  the  knowl- 
edge of  any  person,  we  made  our  way  to  one  of  the  two 
inns  on  the  G  reen ;  but  before  we  could  make  our  little 
arrangements,  the  rumour  of  our  arrival  had  got  abroad, 
and  we  were  not  allowed  to  stay  there.  Mr.  Matheson 
went  to  Mr.  Hover's,  the  minister  of  the  Presbyterian 
Church  ;  and  Mr.  Phelps  and  myself  accepted  the  invita- 
tion of  Mr.  Cook,  a  zealous  member  of  the  Methodist 
Church,  and  who  had  first  shown  us  kindness. 

The  next  day  was  the  Sabbath.  I  declined  all  en- 
gagement for  the  day,  not  only  as  necessary  to  my  state 
of  health,  but  as  I  sought  those  opportunities  of  hearing 
and  of  quiet  observation  which  were  requisite  to  assist 
one's  judgment.  I  had  the  less  dt'licacy  in  this,  as  the 
ministers  were  all  prepared  ti.  meet  their  flocks,  and  as 
Mr.  Matheson  had  engaged  *o  assist  Mr.  Hover  in  duties 
somewhat  arduous. 

In  the  morning  I  worshipped  at  the  Presbyterian 
Church.  The  avenues  and  green  were  animated  by  the 
little  groups  hastening  to  the  House  of  God ;  some  sixty 
light  wagons  stood  about  the  green  and  church  fence, 
which  had  already  delivered  their  charge.  The  people 
were  all  before  the  time.  I  should  think  twenty  persons 
did  not  enter  after  me,  and  I  was  in  time.  There  were, 
I  should  think,  above  a  thousand  persons  present.  The 
exercises  were  well  and  piously  conducted.  Mr.  Hover 
read  his  sermon,  but  he  read  it  with  tears.  It  was  on 
the  duty  of  parents  to  their  children,  and  it  made  a  good 


%* 


46 


RELIGION    AT    MORRISTOWN. 


impression.  It  was  adapted  to  this  end  ;  for  it  was  ex- 
cellent in  composition  and  in  feeling.  The  people  did 
not  show  much  interest  in  the  singing,  nor  all  the  interest 
in  prayer  which  I  expected ;  but  on  the  whole  it  was, 
perhaps,  the  best  time  of  both  pastor  and  people ;  for 
they  were  still  surrounded  by  the  effects  and  influence 
of  a  revival  which  had  lasted  most  of  the  winter.  The 
particulars  of  this  revival  I  will  here  put  down ;  postpo- 
ning any  observations  on  the  subject  generally  till  I  can 
give  it  the  full  consideration  which  its  importance  de- 
mands. 

From  all  I  could  learn,  religion  must  have  been  low 
in  this  congregation  previous  to  the  revival;  that  is, 
lower  than  it  usually  is  in  our  churches.  There  are 
many  causes  that  might  contribute  to  this ;  and  chiefly, 
I  think,  it  might  arise  from  many  persons  who,  as  they 
grow  up,  have  no  wish  to  be  thought  irreligious,  and  yet 
have  no  conscientious  regard  for  religion ;  and  who, 
feeling  towards  the  predominant  church  as  a  sort  of 
parish  church,  attach  themselves  to  it,  and  thus  from  time 
to  time  infuse  into  it  a  worldly  character.  Several  pious 
persons,  principally  the  minister  and  elders,  I  believe, 
felt  for  the  condition  of  the  people,  and  the  want  of  suc- 
cess in  the  ordinary  means  of  grace  ;  and  they  met  to- 
gether for  prayer  and  consultation.  The  pastor  engaged 
to  bring  the  subject,  as  it  impressed  themselves,  before 
the  attention  of  the  church ;  and  special  meetings  for 
prayer  and  a  special  visitation  were  determined  on. 
The  township  was  laid  out  in  districts,  and  thirty-four 
visiters  were  appointed.  They  were  to  go  two  and  two  ; 
and  to  visit  every  family  and  individual  more  or  less  in 
attendance  at  church.  Their  business  was,  by  conver- 
sation and  prayer,  and  earnest  appeal  to  the  conscience, 
to  press  the  claims  of  domestic  and  personal  rehgion  on 
all ;  and  this  was  to  be  done  without  mixing  it  up  with 
ordinary  topics  of  converse,  or  partaking  of  social  refresh- 
ments, that  nothing  might  interfere  with  the  impression. 
The  visitation  was  to  be  made  within  one  week;  this 
limitation  was  of  great  use ;  and  as  this  people  have 


\ 


much  leii 

it  could  I 

The  r 

revived, 

serious  ii 

interestin 

communi( 

occupatio 

meeting  i 

this   mea 

hands  the 

conductec 

it  advanc 

the  fruit  o 

to  receivt 

pious  at  t 

their   sac] 

occur  onl 

stance  giv 

advantage 

In  the 
Church, 
not  two  h 
worthy  cl 
a  sermon 
void  of th 
provoke  n 
not  likely 
the  peopU 
less  tiling 
responsibi 
prive  it  ol 

On  lea 
quented  j 
it  present 
memory, 
in  lookin 
the  spire 
through  t 


REVIVAL   AT    MORRISTOWN. 


47 


much  leisure  at  the  period  of  the  year  which  was  chosen, 
it  could  be  attended  with  no  difficulty. 

The  results  were  highly  encouraging.  Many  were 
revived,  and  many  were  brought  under  conviction  and 
serious  inquiry.  The  deputies  reported  whatever  was 
interesting  to  the  pastor,  and  encouraged  tiie  people  to- 
communicate  with  him ;  and  his  hands  were  soon  full  of 
occupation.  He  determined  on  holding  a  protracted 
meeting  in  the  month  of  February  for  some  days,  and  by 
this  means  he  brought  to  his  youth  and  his  overladen 
hands  the  help  of  some  brethren  in  the  ministry.  It  was 
conducted,  I  uelieve,  with  prudence  and  efficiency ;  and 
it  advanced  the  good  work  which  had  been  begun.  As 
the  fruit  of  these  exercises,  the  happy  pastor  was  looking 
to  receive  nearly  fifty  persons  to  the  communion  of  the 
pious  at  the  next  sacrament.  It  should  be  observed  that 
their  sacraments,  and  consequently  their  admissions^ 
occur  only  once  in  three  months ;  and  that  this  circum- 
stance gives  to  their  amount  of  admissions  an  apparent 
advantage  over  ours. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  day  I  attended  the  Episcopal 
Church.  It  is  small  and  thinly  attended.  There  were 
not  two  hundred  persons.  The  minister  is,  I  believe,  of 
worthy  character,  and  seriously  disposed ;  but  he  reads 
a  sermon  in  essay  style  ;  fairly  put  together  indeed,  yet 
void  of  thought,  of  distinctness,  and  of  point.  It  would 
provoke  neither  objection  nor  inquiry  ;  and  was  therefore 
not  likely  to  do  good.  The  service  closed  as  it  began : 
the  people  were  evidently  not  interested.  0  what  a  life- 
less thing  professed  religion  may  become,  and  what  a 
responsibility  rests  with  the  minister,  lest  he  should  de- 
prive it  of  life  as  it  passes  through  his  hands ! 

On  leaving  the  place,  I  took  a  circuitous  and  unfre- 
quented path  home,  and  was  delighted  witii  the  scenes 
it  presented  to  me.  One  spot  especially  dwells  in  my 
memory.  You  stood  on  a  slope  above  the  village ;  and 
in  looking  upop  it,  you  saw  only  the  turret  of  the  hall, 
the  spire  of  the  church,  and  the  angles  of  a  few  cottages 
through  the  foliage  of  the  poplar,  the  oak,  and  the  piue, 


^«, 


48 


EVENING    WORSHIP. 


which  concealed  all  the  rest.  Here  and  there  little  par- 
ties appeared  and  disappeared,  as  they  quietly  moved  on 
from  the  school  or  the  church  to  their  quiet  home.  Be- 
hind you  were  two  verdant  lanes,  which  promised  to 
transport  you  from  the  world ;  while  at  your  side  the 
land  broke  suddenly  away  some  hundred  feet,  and  pre- 
sented you  with  a  small  lake  finely  fringed  with  wood ; 
and  again  it  fell  away,  and  ran  into  the  distance,  giving 
to  the  eye  vale  after  vale,  and  hill  after  hill,  beautifully 
formed,  beautifully  clothed,  and  in  beautiful  perspective. 
The  sun  was  shining  brilliantly  on  this  distant  scenery ; 
and  a  fine  dark  cloud  had  risen  like  a  curtain  over  the 
other  portion  of  it,  so  as  to  throw  as  much  of  quiet  ani- 
mation into  the  whole  picture  as  possible.  It  was  a 
sweet  study. 

In  the  evening  I  went  with  Mr.  Cook  and  my  friend 
to  the  Episcopal  Methodist  Church.  It  is  not  large,  and 
has  been  recently  built.  The  men  occupied  one  side  of 
the  place,  and  the  women  the  other;  an  unsocial  plan, 
and  more  hkely  to  suggest  evil  than  to  prevent  it.  We 
were  there  before  the  service  commenced.  The  silence 
was  interrupted  disagreeably,  by  continued  spitting, 
which  fell,  to  a  strange  ear,  like  the  drippings  from  the 
eaves  on  a  lainy  day.  They  have  the  custom  of  turning 
their  back  to  the  minister  in  singing,  that  they  may  face 
the  singers ;  and  they  have  also  the  practice,  to  a  great 
extent,  of  interlining  the  prayer  with  exclamations  and 
prayers  of  their  own.  Such  as  these,  for  instance,  were 
common : — Amen — Do  so.  Lord — Lord,  thou  knowest — 
Let  it  be  so,  Lord — Yes,  yes.  Lord — Come,  come.  Lord, 
&c. — You  will  recognise  in  this  only  what  you  have 
witnessed  at  home. 

Their  minister  came  out  from  Ireland.  He  is  an  in- 
telligent, humble,  pious  man ;  and  preached  a  sound  and 
useful  sermon.  But  he  has  no  management  of  his  voice  ; 
it  was  at  one  elevation,  and  that  the  highest,  throughout. 
By  this  means  he  lost  the  power  to  impress ;  and 
threatens,  I  fear,  to  wear  himself  out  with  vociferation. 
The  miristers  in  this  connexion,  I  found,  are  allowed  to 


!; 


i 


JOURNEY    TO    PHILADELPHIA. 


49 


ii 


settle.  He  is  just  settled ;  he  has  a  wife  and  three 
children,  and  has  500  dollars  a  year. 

It  Wiis  nearly  ten  o'clock  when  we  left.  The  night 
was  dark.  The  clouds  had  settled  heavily  all  round  the 
horizon,  and  the  lightning  was  flashing  most  vividly 
through  the  whole  circle.  We  seemed  like  Saturn  sur- 
rounded by  rings  of  fire.  I  had  not  before  seen  Amer- 
ican lightning. 

On  the  whole,  the  state  of  this  township  is  very  good. 
There  are  in  it  3,500  persons.  There  are  2,500  in  at- 
tendance on  worship,  and  about  1,000  in  communion; 
and  there  are  not  less  than  700  children  in  the  schools. 
The  change,  toe,  must  have  been  great.  One  fact  will 
satisfy  you  of  this  ;  there  were  in  this  township,  before 
the  Temperance  efforts,  fourteen  stores  for  the  sale  of 
spirituous  liquors — apple-gin,  rum,  and  whiskey ;  now 
there  is  only  one. 

It  would  •  vve  been  pleasant  to  us  all  could  we  have 
stayed  a  day  '  o  here;  but  as  we  had  to  be  present 
at  the  sitting!  >  'ae  General  Assembly,  we  were  obliged 
to  leave  on  the  Monday  evening.  We  parted  with  our 
friends  with  the  hope  of  meeting  again ;  and  hastened 
back  to  New-York.  So  soon  as  we  arrived  we  found 
that,  in  con&equence  of  the  special  prayer-meetings  hav- 
ing been  so  well  attended,  and  of  some  disappointment 
having  arisen  from  our  absence,  a  supplemental  prayer- 
meeting  had  been  fixed  for  that  evening,  and  we  were 
announced  as  expected.  We  made  haste  therefore  to 
go ;  and  united  with  Dr.  Spring,  Mr.  Norton,  and  other 
ministers,  in  conducting  the  meeting. 

The  following  day  was  fully  occupied  ;  the  morning 
in  meeting  those  claims  which  arose  on  leaving  our 
American  home  for  a  considerable  time ;  and  the  even- 
ing in  the  society  of  many  friends  which  our  kind  host 
and  hostess  had  invited  to  meet  us.  The  following 
morning,  at  five,  we  started  for  Philadelphia,  with  the 
happiness  of  still  being  attended  by  Mr.  Phelps,  who  was 
delegated  to  the  Assembly,  and  two  of  his  daughters^ 
who  were  availing  themselves  of  this  opportunity  to 

Vol.  I.— C  6 


50 


GENERAL   ASSEMBLY. 


fi 


visit  the  city.  We  were  not  strangers  to  the  place,  as 
it  had  lain  in  our  way  to  and  from  Washington ;  nor  had 
we  to  seek  a  dwelling,  for  Dr.  Ely,  who  had  before  re- 
ceived us,  still  insisted  that  we  should  accept  of  the 
hospi*  lity  of  his  hospitable  family. 


LLTTER  VI. 

My  dear  Friend,  * 

We  had  no  sooner  time  to  look  about  us  in  Philadel- 
phia, than  we  found  ourselves  in  a  fu^^  tide  of  occupation, 
not  inferior  to  what  we  had  known  at  New-York.  The 
Assembly  would  require  a  close  attention,  and  have 
heavy  sittings,  and  crowded  attendance,  as  questions  of 
great,  and,  in  the  judgment  of  many,  of  fearful  interest, 
would  come  on.  In  addition  to  this,  the  public  institu- 
tions availed  themselves  of  the  favourable  occasion  to 
hold  anniversary  meetings,  which  were  odged  into  all 
the  niches  of  time  which  it  was  hoped  the  Assembly 
would  leave  disengaged ;  and  it  was  a  matter  of  earnest 
request  that  we  should  attend  them.  Our  home,  too, 
gave  the  same  signs  of  busy  engagement.  Dr.  Ely  on 
these  occasions  keeps  open  house.  There  were  thirteen 
or  fourteen  of  us  dwelling  there,  and  always  more  than 
this  number  at  the  dinner  table.  As  these  visiters  were 
our  brethren,  and  came  from  all  parts  of  the  States,  it 
supplied  a  means  of  profitable  and  pleasant  intercourse, 
which  suffered  no  deduction,  except  what  arose  from  the 
difficulty  of  finding  time  to  enjoy  it.  Let  me,  however, 
put  the  more  important  engagements  before  you  in  the 
order  of  their  occurrence. 

On  the  evening  of  our  arrival,  we  found  that  the  Epis- 
copal Church  Missionary  Society  was  holding  a  meeting. 
I  went  to  it.     It  was  respectably  attended.     The  ven- 


■3 


erable  Bi 
men  spo 
one  very 
ness  and 
well  knoT 
recollecti 
York  me 
should  b( 
mously  t( 
their  pro 
tempt  on 
and  it  \v\ 

The  ne 
They  me 
formerly  ( 
It  is  capa 
and  soun 
service  of 
year  is  a 
thronged, 
and  saint 
Dr.  W.  ] 
Jerusalen 
text.  TV 
— was  d( 
best  thing 
a  happy  < 

After  1 
or  retired 
which  w: 
area  near 
the  me  ml 
the  stand 
port  of  th 
as  comini 
there  we 
had  been 
tach  to  V 
cial  capa 


GENERAL    ASSEMBLY. 


61 


erable  Bishop  Wiiite  was  in  the  chair.  Several  clergy- 
men spoke  from  written  speeches.  They  were  good, 
one  very  good  ;  and  the  only  defect  was  in  the  awkward- 
ness and  formality  of  the  delivery.  Dr.  Milnor,  a  name 
well  known  among  us,  and  now  very  pleasant  to  my 
recollections,  had  come  on  with  the  effects  of  the  New- 
York  meetings  upon  h'.n,  and  he  urged  that  something 
should  be  done  for  China.  A  vote  was  carried  unani- 
mously to  send  out  a  missionary ;  and  it  gave  new  life  to 
their  proceedings.  This  altogether  was  an  infant  at- 
tempt on  the  part  of  the  evangelical  Episcopal  clergy, 
and  it  wis  well  and  piously  sustained. 

The  next  morning  we  attended  the  General  Assembly. 
They  met  in  the  church  which  was  built  for  Mr.  Hay, 
formerly  of  Bristol ;  it  is  the  seventh  Presbyterian  Church. 
It  is  capacious  and  handsome,  and  well  adapted  for  sight 
and  sound.  The  sittings  are  opened  by  a  devotional 
service  of  the  usual  order ;  and  the  moderator  of  the  last 
year  is  always  appointed  to  preach.  The  place  was 
thronged,  and  with  such  an  assemblage  of  pastors,  elders, 
and  saints,  as  is  seldom  v/itnessed.  The  preacher  was 
Dr.  W.  M'Dcwell:  his  text,  "Pray  for  the  peace  of 
Jerusalem ;"  and  the  sermon  breathed  the  spirit  of  the 
text.  The  whole  service — sermon,  prayers,  psalmody 
— was  devout  and  refreshing.  It  was  like  some  of  the 
best  things  we  hav->  at  home,  and  was  calculated  to  have 
a  happy  effect  in  the  pending  discussions. 

After  the  public  worship,  the  congregation  dispersed 
or  retired  to  the  galleries,  or  to  that  portion  of  the  area 
which  was  assigned  to  spectators ;  the  one  half  of  the 
area  nearest  to  the  pulpit  being  retained  for  the  u  "^  of 
the  members  of  assembly.  The  Assembly  is  formed  by 
the  standing  committee  of  commissioners,  making  a  re- 
port of  the  persons  present  who  are  duly  appointed  to  sit 
as  com;nissioners  in  this  convention.  It  appeared  that 
there  were  nearly  200  present ;  the  numbers  returnecl 
had  been  reduced  to  avoid  the  inconveniences  which  at- 
tach to  very  large  bodies  sitting  in  legislative  and  judi- 
cial capacities.     The  congregational  bodies  send  del». 

C3 


52 


GENERAL    ASSEMBLY. 


li 


gates  to  this  Assembly,  but  they  are  not  allowed  to  vote. 
By  the  time  that  the  body  had  got  into  form  and  shape, 
it  was  needful  to  grant  a  recess. 

At  four  o'clock  they  met  a^ain.  The  first  business 
was,  after  prayer,  to  choose  a  moderator  and  temporary 
clerk;  '  o,  with  the  two  permanent  clerks,  composed 
the  offif  staff  of  the  court.  Committees  were  then  ap- 
pointed, whose  duties  were  either  to  dispose  of  trivial 
business,  or  to  prepare  more  serious  business  for  the  con- 
sideration of  the  Assembly.  These  arrangements  were 
followed  by  reports  from  the  permanent  and  stated 
clerks,  Dr.  M'Dowell  and  Dr.  Ely,  on  the  correspond- 
ence and  the  outline  of  business  waiting  the  attention  of 
the  commissioners.  These  were  all  preliminaries,  and 
when  they  were  arranged  it  was  time  to  adjourn,  or  at 
least  i"  was  deemed  so  by  tlie  meeting. 

Dr.  Philip  Lindsley,  President  of  Nashville  College, 
was  chosen  as  moderator ;  a  gentleman  whose  acquaint- 
ance I  had  the  pleasure  of  making  at  Washington.  So 
far  as  intelligence,  impartiality,  and  urbane  and  Christian 
carriage  were  qualifications,  the  choice  was  a  happy  one ; 
but  a  person  who  presides  over  a  large  meeting,  where 
one  half  of  the  persons  are  unused  to  the  forms  of  pro- 
ceeding, and  where  strong  discussion  and  party  feeling 
are  expected  to  break  out,  requires,  above  all  things, 
much  promptitude  and  tact  in  the  ways  of  business  gen- 
erally, and  a  good  acquaintance  with  the  practices  of  the 
body  over  which  he  is  placed  in  particular.  This  Dr. 
Lindsley  candidly  acknowledged  he  did  not  possess  ; 
and,  from  the  want  of  it,  both  himself  and  the  court  were 
often  embarrassed,  sometimes  in  a  humorous,  and  some- 
times in  a  vexatious  manner. 

On  the  following  day,  much  time  was  consumed  in 
minor  afiurs  ;  but  at  length  came  the  subject  of  the  com- 
plaint and  appeal  of  the  Second  Presbytery  of  Philadel- 
phia against  the  Synod  of  Philadelphia.  An  effort  was 
made  by  an  amendment  to  postpone  it,  on  which  there 
was  much  confusion.  But  all  were  waiting  for  the  dis- 
cussion, and  the  proposition  was  oyelruled ;  and  the  com- 


plaint and 
long  hear 
of  our  sta] 
the  Assem 
tions;  and 
porary   int 
before  you 
Some  0 
adopted  op 
the  head 
adopted  th 
the  denom 
both  new 
Presbyterij 
at  large   e 
they  were 
dispute,  in 
party,  who 
and  who  fe 
their  conn 
Presbytery 
Elective  A: 
of  the   Sy 
beyond  w 
especially 
from  the  c 
such  prin( 
before  the 
heated  am 
the  existei 
the  Synod 
and  assigi 
the  Presb- 
plaint, 
now  thro\ 
exacerbati 
cates,  evei 
space,  am 
Then  can 


GENERAL   ASSEMBLY. 


53 


plaint  and  appeal  were  allowed  to  take  their  hearing.  A 
long  hearing  it  was,  for  it  lasted  beyond  the  remainder 
of  our  stay,  and  very  little  else  occupied  the  attention  of 
the  Assembly.  This  indeed  was  the  question  of  ques- 
tions; and  as  it  was  by  no  means  one  of  local  or  tem- 
porary interest,  I  must  endeavour  to  place  it  briefly 
before  you. 

Some  of  the  pastors  and  churches  in  this  city  had 
adopted  opinions  and  courses  which  fall  generally  under 
the  head  of  new  measures;  while  those  who  have  not 
adopted  them  have  fallen,  by  a  contrast  of  term,7,  under 
the  denomination  of  old  measures.  As  these  measures, 
both  new  and  old,  affect  other  churches  besides  the 
Presbyterian,  they  must  be  noticed  distinctly  and  more 
at  large  elsewhere.  It  is  sufficient  to  state  here,  that 
they  were  the  occasion  of  much,  and  sometimes  of  bitter 
dispute,  in  the  existing  Presbyteries.  The  new-measure 
party,  who  were  a  minority  in  the  existing  Pre  ^vteries, 
and  who  felt  themselves  annoyed,  proposed  to  v»  .idraw 
their  connexion,  and  form  themselves  into  a  separate 
Presbytery,  as  a  measure  of  peace,  under  the  style  of  an 
Elective  Affinity  Presbytery.  The  existing  Presbyteries 
of  the  Synod  felt  that  this  was  to  place  themselves 
beyond  what  they  deemed  a  salutary  influence ;  and 
especially  they  were  alarmed  at  a  proposed  departure 
from  the  constitution  of  the  church,  which  recognised  no 
such  principle  of  separation.  The  whole  matter  went 
before  the  General  Assembly ;  and,  after  seven  days* 
heated  and  painful  discussion,  the  Assembly  confirmed 
the  existence  of  the  Second  Presbytery,  and  instructed 
the  Synod  to  receive  it.  The  Synod  refused  to  comply, 
and  assigned  its  reasons  in  a  string  of  resolutions,  and 
the  Presbytery  came  up  again  with  its  appeal  and  com- 
plaint. Thus  the  affair  stood  at  this  time ;  and  it  was 
now  thrown  open,  and  with  it  the  old  wounds,  to  fresh 
exacerbation.  Each  party  was  heard  by  its  own  advo- 
cates, even  to  weariness,  for  the  argument  lay  in  a  small 
space,  and  a  great  length  of  time  was  bestowed  on  it. 
Then  cajne  the  rights  of  the  judicatory.     The  roll  was 


t 


64 


GENERAL  ASSEMBLY. 


called,  and  every  member  in  giving  his  vote  had  the 
right  to  give  his  reasons  too ;  and  very  many  availed 
themselves  of  it.  At  last  the  votes  were  taken,  and  it 
was  found  that  about  two  thirds  of  the  court  were  against 
disturbing  the  previous  determination. 

On  the  character  of  the  discussion  as  it  advanced, 
there  is  not  much  room  for  remark.  There  was  not  a 
great  deal  of  good  speaking.  One  speech  was  argu- 
mentative and  very  clever,  but  it  wanted  perspicuiiy  and 
condensation  to  give  it  power.  Another  speaker  was  re- 
markable and  amusing,  from  the  manner  in  which  scraps 
of  common  Latin  fell  from  his  hps  at  every  third  sen- 
tence, and  with  all  sorts  of  accent.  And  another 
awakened  extraordinary  excitement  by  his  power  in 
biting  sarcasm,  a  power  used  so  waywardly  as  to  alarm 
both  friends  and  foes.  While  many  in  the  course  of  the 
debate  expressed  themselves  with  brevity,  in  nothing 
remarkable,  except  for  that  good  sense  and  gracious 
feeling  which  savoureth  all  things. 

I  have  given  you  this  account  somewhat  in  detail,  be- 
cause this  body  is  next  in  importance  to  the  Congress 
itself.  The  persons  composing  it  are  the  elect  of  their 
particular  societies,  and  they  come  from  all  parts  of  the 
States;  some  of  them  the  distance  of  1,000  and  1,200 
miles.  Many  of  them  were  ashamed  that  we  should 
witness  discussions  which  involved  much  personal  allu- 
sion, and  which,  while  man  is  man,  will  throw  up  his  in- 
firmities to  the  surface.  For  my  own  part,  I  was  glad 
of  an  occasion  of  observing  the  conduct  of  such  a  body 
under  very  trying  circumstances;  and  the  result  was  that 
of  unfeigned  admiration.  Apart  from  the  conduct  of  the 
leading  speakers,  who,  residing  in  the  city,  and  pledged 
to  certain  views,  might  be  regarded  as  ex  parte  advo- 
cates, the  Assembly  generally  did  not  forget  their  char- 
acter as  judges,  but  carried  themselves  with  much 
gravity,  impartiality,  and  forbearance.  They  overlooked 
the  effects  of  passion  in  others,  and  subdued  them  in 
themselves ;  they  evidently  acted  under  the  fear  of  God, 
and  with  a  desire  of  promoting  the  things  that  "make  for 


I  i 


oenehal  assembly. 


55 


i 


peace."  I  could  not  help  thinking,  at  various  times  of 
provocation,  what  a  different  conduct  would  have  been 
shown  had  it  not  been  for  the  restraints  of  religion  ;  and 
how  much  of  religious  influence  must  have  been  silently 
felt  to  produce  the  amount  of  restraint,  I  have  seen 
many  rehgious  bodies,  when  less  tried,  and  when  more 
habituated  to  this  sort  of  trial,  and  when  dwelling  in  a 
more  refined  atmosphere,  not  behave  so  well. 

In  saying  as  much  as  this,  however,  in  favour  of  the 
court,  you  must  understand,  what  I  have  already  inti- 
mated, that  this  question  was  regarded  by  neither  party, 
nor  by  the  Assembly,  as  of  local  interest.  It  was  not  a 
question  whether  a  new  Presbytery,  constituted  on  new 
principles,  in  Philadelphia,  should  exist  or  be  annihilated ; 
but  it  was  a  question  which  was  considered  as  a  test  of 
the  strength  or  weakness  of  the  new-measure  men  through- 
out the  whole  church.  That  the  New  Presbytery  should 
be  willing  to  make  it  so  is  not  surprising ;  but  that  the 
Synod  should  have  been  so  disposed  is  amazing,  as  it 
was  placing  a  subject  which  they  deemed  to  be  of  the 
first  magnitude  in  a  most  unequal  and  perilous  position. 
In  fact,  it  was  no  trial  of  strength  on  the  new  and  old 
measures.  The  Assembly  had,  at  a  former  sitting, 
heard  and  passed  judgment  on  a  case  brought  regularly 
before  them  by  appellant  and  defendant.  The  Synod 
had  refused  to  act  on  that  judgment ;  and  the  real  quej- 
tion  now  was,  whether  the  Assembly  should  retain  its 
place  in  the  constitution  as  a  supreme  and  final  court  of 
appeal.  All  who  know  how  backward  men  are  to  review 
and  reverse  a  decision  they  have  formallv  made,  will  see 
that  there  were  few  chances,  even  if  wrong,  of  getting  it 
set  right,  and  if  right,  just  no  chance  at  all.  And  the 
Synod,  by  still  identifying  the  case  with  the  greater 
question,  have  created  an  impression  in  favour  of  the 
new  measures,  which  they  must  deem  as  fatal  as  it  is 
general.  Up  to  this  moment,  it  is  generally  considered 
that  the  majority  obtained  against  the  Synod  is  a  victory 
on  the  side  of  new  measures  ;  whereas,  you  will  now  see, 
that  it  is  a  resolution  of  the  Assembly  to  assert  its  own 


GENERAL    ASSEMBLY. 


supremacy.  And  certainly,  were  a  calm  decision  sought 
on  the  subject  of  measures  only,  the  division  of  this 
court  would  be  very  different. 

Before  leaving  the  Assembly,  I  must  yet  make  one  or 
two  references.  In  the  course  of  the  proceedmgs  some 
interesting  reports  were  brought  up,  relative  to  their  col- 
lege, the  mission  cause,  and  the  state  of  religion.  The 
report  on  the  state  of  religion  was  brought  up  on  the 
Monday  morning  after  our  arrival.  We  were  looked  to, 
in  our  turn,  as  delegates  from  the  Congregational  Union, 
for  some  account  of  the  numbers  and  condition  of  our 
churches.  Mr.  Matheson  made  a  brief  and  general 
statement,  and  presented  the  congratulations  of  our  con- 
stituents. I  was  urged  to  support  him,  but  from  the  re- 
newed loss  of  voice,  I  was  obliged  to  excuse  myself. 
The  reports  generally  were  not  made  so  prominent  and 
interesting  as  I  expected,  or  as,  perhaps,  they  commonly 
are ;  there  was  at  this  time  an  exciting  and  absorbing 
subject  before  the  meeting  unsettled,  and,  of  course, 
there  was  an  eagerness  to  pass  to  it. 

It  is  the  custom  of  the  Assembly  to  set  apart  a  morn- 
ing during  their  sessions  for  special  devotion — reading 
the  Scriptures,  exhortation,  and  prayer.  Considering  the 
design,  and  its  special  character,  I  went  to  the  place  of 
jmeeting  with  high  expectation  of  thronged  attendance 
and  happy  worship.  But  no  ;  it  was  too  much  there  as 
it  is  here  ;  the  persons  who  will  crowd  to  a  religious  de- 
bate are  not  the  persons  who  rejoice  in  a  pure  act  of 
worship.  At  the  time  of  commencement  there  vere  not 
more  than  two  hundred  persons  present.  However,  the 
attendance  soon  increased  to  eight  hundred  or  a  thousand, 
and  these,  without  doubt,  of  the  more  serious  and  pious 
character.  I  was  associated  with  five  of  my  Presby- 
terian brethren  in  leading  the  services.  There  was  over 
the  meeting  a  very  subdued  and  tender  spirit.  All  un-r 
used  to  tears,  I  never  saw  so  many  men  weeping  before, 
We  enjoyed  much ;  and  it  was  an  evidence  of  what  might 
liave  been  enjoyed  in  more  auspicious  circumstances. 

At  the  close  of  the  service,  Dr.  Green,  the  fjcither  of 


the  Asser 
ceeding  to 
in  order  tc 
pressed  gi 
they  shoul 
to  be  in  hs 

Of  the  < 
be  said, 
and  said,  I 
vantage, 
of  those  h 
connected 
ance,  and 
were  all  m 
School  Ur 
be  admiral 

There 
notice.     I 
sionary  to 
of  our  an 
persons, 
made  corr 
bytery  wa 
Secretary 
Dr.  Ely 
to,  not  as 
He  then  o 
hands  ;  at 
which  is 
affectional 
Winslow 
and  the  s( 

This  w 
peculiarly 
time,  whic 
China 
up  attentii 
and  I  wer 
terest  thei 


a 


CHINA. 


67 


the  Assembly,  rose  and  proposed  tliat,  instead  of  pro- 
ceeding to  business,  as  was  usual,  they  should  adjourn^ 
in  order  to  cherish  the  impressions  made.  But  business 
pressed  greatly ;  and  it  was  overruled  by  a  proposal  that 
they  should  receive  the  Mission  Report,  which  was  thought 
to  be  in  harmony  with  the  existing  state  of  feehng. 

Of  the  other  engagements  whde  in  this  city  little  need 
be  said.  My  object  is  not  to  report  all  that  was  done 
and  said,  but  so  much  as  may  afford  information  and  ad- 
vantage. The  public  meetings  were  mostly  duplicates 
of  those  held  at  New- York.  The  chief  of  them  were 
connected  with  the  Presbyterian  Education,  the  Temper- 
ance, and  the  Sunday  School  Union  Societies.  These 
were  all  well  attended  and  well  sustained.  The  Sunday 
School  Union  has  its  establishment  here,  and  appears  to 
be  admirably  conducted. 

There  is  one  service,  however,  which  may  claim 
notice.  It  was  the  ordination  of  Mr.  Parker  as  a  mis- 
sionary to  China.  It  look  place  on  the  second  evening 
of  our  arrival,  in  the  presence  of  a  large  assembly  of 
persons.  It  was  by  the  Second  Presbytery,  and  we  were 
made  corresponding  members  for  the  time.  The  Pres- 
bytery was  constituted  by  prayer.  Afterward  Dr.  Wisner, 
Secretary  of  the  Society,  gave  an  introductory  sermon. 
Dr.  Ely  asked  the  usual  qiiestions ;  which  were  replied 
to,  not  as  with  us,  but  by  the  mere  expression  of  assent. 
He  then  offered  the  ordaining  prayer,  with  imposition  of 
hands  ;  and  led  in  giving  the  right  hand  of  fellowship, 
which  is  not  given  in  silence,  but  with  explanatory  and 
affectionate  remark.  Mr.  Barnes  gave  the  charge.  Mr. 
Winslow  and  »»»yself  then  followed  with  short  addresses, 
and  the  service  closed  with  singing  and  prayer. 

This  was  in  itself  a  delightful  service ;  to  me  it  was 
peculiarly  so.  It  was  the  second  service,  in  order  of 
time,  which  I  attended  here,  and  both  services  related  to 
China.  I  had  for  the  last  three  years  attempted  to  call 
up  attention  to  the  claims  of  China  at  home,  but  in  vain» 
and  I  went  out  to  America  not  prepared  to  find  much  in- 
terest there ;  and  when  I  really  found  that  Christians  of 

C3 


! 


58 


PHILADELPHIA. 


I 


h      ' 


that  country  were  lookinjj  on  China  as  a  field  of  present 
labour,  and  were  sending  forth  not  a  single  missionary, 
but  many,  for  its  redemption,  it  seemed  as  though  one 
had  crossed  the  Atlantic  to  receive  an  answer  to  one's 
prayers. 

Still,  on  returning  home,  you  are  surprised  with  the 
question,  Is  China  open  ?  My  reply  is,  America  has 
answered  that  question.  China  is  as  open  now,  and  has 
been  for  the  last  twenty  years,  as  it  ever  will  be  till  we 
strive  to  enter.  It  is  not  open  to  indolent  inquiry  ;  it  is 
©pen  to  faith,  prayer,  and  fixed  perseverance.  Our  neg- 
ligence to  this  subject  for  a  long  period  is  the  more  re- 
markable, since  we  have  had  the  greatest  facihties  for 
the  work ;  and  to  justify  what  we  had  done,  it  was  indis- 
pensable that  we  should  do  more.  Thirty  years  ago 
China  secured  our  attention.  Morrison  and  Milne  were 
devoii  a  to  it;  and  with  the  most  exhilarating  success. 
Malacca,  Singapore,  and  Penang,  were  taken  up  as  out- 
posts, to  bear  on  this  great  empire,  and  have  been  sus- 
tained, at  an  immense  expense,  for  some  twenty  years, 
only  for  its  buke,  and  yet  no  movement  of  the  least  im- 
portance from  that  time  to  this  has  been  made  on  a 
country  which,  with  its  dependants  and  accessories,  con- 
tains one  half  of  the  world's  population.  Surely  the 
churches  will  awake  to  a  sense  of  their  duty  ;  and  while 
expending  their  resources  on  fields  of  acknowledged  im- 
portance, will  still  maintain,  that  the  first  in  importance 
has,  in  wisdom  and  in  mercy,  the  first  claim  to  our  ser- 
Tices  of  benevolence. 

You  will  perhaps  be  scarcely  satisfied  if  I  leave  Phil- 
adelphia without  speaking  of  it  as  a  place.  What  has 
been  often  said,  I  need  not  repeat :  it  will  be  enough  if  I 
give  you  my  impressions.  It  is  indeed  a  Quaker  city, 
neat,  clean,  uniform,  without  any  striking  features. 
There  is  the  drab  bonnet,  and  the  drab  gown',  and  the 
frill,  and  neckerchief  and  apron  to  correspond ;  all  very 
good,  and,  in  a  certain  acceptation,  very  handsome  ;  but 
there  are  no  feathers,  no  flounces,  no  gaudy  colours,  and 
no  finery,  either  genteel  or  shabby.     The  streets  inter- 


nrtLADELPIlIA. 


59 


(^ 


sect  each  other  at  right  angles ;  and  every  street  is  so 
Uke  its  fellow  as  sometimes  to  tire  on  the  eye  and  per- 
plex the  course.  It  is  the  cleanest  city  I  have  seen  in 
this  new  world ;  it  has  the  finest  market ;  and  is  admi- 
rably supplied  with  excellent  water.  I  should  think  a 
family  would  find  as  many  comforts  and  as  few  incon-< 
veniences  as  may  be,  in  residing  here.  The  females, 
too,  struck  me  as  more  interesting  in  appearance  ;  but 
they  might  owe  this  to  their  dress.  You  seldom  see  the 
Quaker  dress  in  this  town ;  but  it  has  evidently  qualified 
all  you  do  see.  It  is  a  happy  medium  between  what  you 
would  find  in  Quaker  life  and  fashionable  life  ;  it  borrows 
taste  from  the  one,  and  feminine  nicety  from  the  other. 
The  society,  I  should  think,  is  agreeable  and  excellent. 

As  for  sights,  after  what  I  have  said,  you  will  suppose 
that  they  may  soon  be  disposed  of.  Yet  there  is  some- 
thing under  this  head.  We  saw  the  exchange  ;  it  is  just 
finished,  at  a  large  expense ;  and,  like  many  of  our  ex- 
pensive things,  ought  to  be  good.  It  is  built  of  marble, 
and  has  some  fine  Corinthian  columns,  with  beautiful 
wrought  capitals  ;  but,  for  the  rest,  it  is  sad  indeed. 
Surely  no  architect  could  have  given  such  an  elevation. 
The  porticoes  to  the  two  banks  are  admirable  ;  I  remem- 
ber gazing  on  the  larger  one,  in  the  moonlight,  with  great 
pleasure.  The  corner  of  the  ground  in  which  Franklin 
lies,  and  the  room  in  which  the  Declaration  of  Independ- 
ence was  first  read,  interested  me.  There  is  here  an  ex- 
cellent library  and  museum.  The  library  has  upwards 
of  30,000  volumes,  and  is  more  select  than  most.  It  has 
been  greatly  enriched  by  the  bequest  of  arr  English 
clergyman.  The  museum  is  chiefly  remarkable  for  a  fir'» 
skeleton  of  the  mammoth. 

I  saw  also  the  spot  where  Penn  signed  his  treaty 
with  the  Indians.  A  tree,  springing  from  the  roots  of 
the  parent  tree  under  which  they  stood,  shades  the  apot. 
The  Penn  Society  have  lately  placed  a  small  rioiiument 
there  ;  I  will  not  say  erected,  for  it  is  not  more  than  half 
the  size  of  one  of  our  obelisks ;  and  it  has  a  shabby  en- 
closure. 


i 


60 


WATER-WORKS    AND    PENITENTIARY. 


On  the  several  faces  there  is  inscribed : 

PENNSYLVANIA,  FOUNDED   1681, 


BY    DEEDS    OF    PEACE. 


TREATY    GROUND    OP    MTILLIAM    PENM 
WITH    THE    INDIAN    NATIONS,    1682. 
UNBROKEN  FAITH. 


REPLACED  BY  THE  PENN  SOCIETY   1807. 

I  went  also  to  see  the  Water-works  and  the  Peniten- 
tiary. The  former  is  the  boast  of  the  town.  As  a  work 
of  art,  affording  great  benefit  to  the  people,  it  is  good ;  as 
a  place  of  agreeable  resort,  it  is  very  inviting ;  but,  as  a 
discovery  in  science,  which  is  the  ground  of  boast  to 
many,  it  is  nothing.  A  thousand  millstreams  are  made 
available  on  the  same  principle. 

The  Penitentiary  is  really  admirable.  I  can  confirm 
what  has  generally  been  said  of  it.  There  are  some 
nice  and  skilful  arrangements  for  the  order,  supervision, 
cleansing,  and  ventilation  of  the  prison.  All  was  good — 
all,  except  the  method  of  warming,  which  had  perplexed 
them.  They  were  about  to  try  a  new  method,  which 
would  also  fail.  I  promised  to  supply  Mr.  Woods  with 
the  plan  adopted  in  the  London  Orphan  Asylum.  He  is 
an  excellent  man,  a  Friend ;  who  presides  over  the 
establishment  gratuitously,  finding  his  reward  in  the  fruits 
of  his  benevolence. 

I  have  referred  to  the  Quakers.     I  am  sorry  to  say 
/  that  a  considerable  portion  of  them  have  lapsed  into  fatal 
1  heresy.     The  orthodox  have  separated  from  them,  and 
they  now  bear  the  appellation  of  Hicksites.     I  could  not, 
<  assuredly,  learn  their  opinions,  but  I  fear  it  amounts  al- 
most to  Deism.     On  authority,  which  I  believe  I  may 
•  trust,  it  is  said  that  they  have  lately  resolved  that  the 
'  word  Holy  shall  no  longer  be  an  ailix  to  the  word  Bible. 
On  the  morning  of  the  24th,  we  quitted  this  city  for 
New- York  on  our  way  to  Boston ;  after  having  had  the 
most  favourable  opportunity  of  becoming  acquainted  with 


the  hal 

had  mi 

worship 

sicknes 

ful  impi 

we  wou 

friends, 

we  had 

The  go 

ject,  am 

rather  tc 

package 

dishones 

trip  who 

that  she 

eye  on 

thoughts 

kept  ami 

overhear 


•J 


My 

The  re 
on  the  Sa 
in  that  cil 
and  at  th 
quainted  ^ 
Aboel,  th< 


RETURN   TO    NEW-YORK. 


61 


Peniten-- 
s  a  work 
good ;  as 
}ut,  as  a 
boast  to 
re  made 

confirm 
ire  some 
•ervision, 
^  good — 
erplexed 
which 
)ds  with 
He  is 
)ver  the 

le  fruits 

to  say 
nto  fatal 
em,  and 
)uld  not, 
unts  al- 

I  may 
that  the 
d  Bible. 
city  for 
had  the 

dwith 


the  habits  and  character  of  the  people,  and  after  having 
had  much  enjoyment  in  truly  Christian  intercourse  and 
worship.  Of  Dr.  Ely's  kindness,  from  first  to  last,  in 
sickness  and  in  health,  we  have,  and  shall  have,  a  grate- 
ful impression.  We  parted  with  an  understanding  that 
we  would  meet  again  before  we  left  these  shores.  Our 
friends,  the  Phelps',  returned  with  us.  Now,  as  always, 
we  had  kind  admonitions  to  look  well  to  our  luggage. 
The  good  people  have,  everywhere,  alarm  on  this  sub- 
ject, and  there  must  be  a  cause  for  it ;  but  I  think  it  is 
rather  to  be  found  in  the  mistakes  that  happen  by  careless 
package  and  the  frequent  change  of  conveyance,  than  in 
dishonesty.  I  was  referred  to  an  old  woman  on  this 
trip  who  had  been  so  deeply  inoculated  with  this  fear, 
that  she  sat  on  one  portion  of  her  luggage,  and  kept  her 
eye  on  the  rest,  which  lay  at  her  feet ;  and,  lest  her 
thoughts  should  wander,  or  the  amount  be  forgotten,  she 
kept  amusing  herself,  and,  of  course,  the  passengers  who 
overheard  her,  with  this  cheerful  ditty : — 

"  Great  box  and  little  box, 
Band-box  and  bundle  : 

One,  two,  three,  four. 
Great  box  and  little  box, 
Band-box  and  bundle : 
One,  two,  three,  four." 


LETTER  VII. 

My  DEAR  Friend, 
The  reason  which  pressed  us  to  return  to  New- York 
on  the  Saturday  was,  that  we  had  engagements  to  fulfil 
in  that  city.  I  preached  on  the  Sabbath  at  Laight-street, 
and  at  the  Middle  Dutch  Church.  I  had  become  ac- 
quainted with  the  ministers  of  this  church  through  Mr. 
Aboel,  their  missionary,  who  had  stayed  as  an  invalid 

6 


!. 


i'  i 


62 


5IEETING  OF  MERCHANTS. 


■1    M     ( 


T 


some  weeks  in  my  family :  and  the  greater  my  acquaint- 
ance with  them,  the  greater  was  my  esteem.  They  in- 
vited us  to  their  classes,  and  passed  resolutions  expres- 
sive of  congratulations  on  our  arrival,  and  sympathy  in 
our  object. 

On  the  Monday  morning,  we  left  home  soon  after  five, 
to  attend  a  merchants'  prayer-meeting,  which  was  held 
weekly  at  six  o'clock,  and  passed  in  rotation  from  house 
to  house.  On  this  occasion  it  was  held  at  Mr.  Oli- 
phant's,  and  it  was  the  more  interesting^  as  he  and  Mr. 
Parker,  the  recently  ordained  missionary,  were  about  to 
leave  for  China.  Though  he  went  as  a  merchant,  he 
wished  rather  to  advance  religion  than  to  secure  gain. 
Two  friends  engaged  in  prayer ;  and  then  the  President, 
as  the  meetuig  was  of  a  special  character,  invited  us  to 
offer  remarks.  Mr.  Matheson  referred  to  what  Mr. 
Angus  had  sought  to  do  in  this  country  ;  but  with  little 
encouragement.  I  expressed  a  wish  to  know  if  they 
had  defined  objects  before  them  in  this  friendly  meeting.- 
It  was  stated  that  they  had,  and  they  were  understood  to 
be — To  advance  personal  piety  ;  to  intercede  for  their 
families,  and  to  seek,  as  merchants,  the  promotion  of  the 
missionary  cause. 

Of  course,  we  could  only  express  warm  sympathy  in 
such  objects  ;  but  it  was  suggested  whether,  by  assu- 
ming a  more  open  character,  and  calling  up  the  attention 
of  the  merchants  generally,  they  might  not  give  a  fine 
example  to  the  world,  of  that  important  interest  conse- 
crating mercantile  avocations  to  missionary  objects.  Ex- 
tending remarks  of  this  nature  were  kindly  received,  and 
Were  to  be  seriously  considered.  Mr.  Parker  also  ad- 
dressed the  meeting  with  humility  and  affection.  There 
was  a  swpet  spirit  over  it,  and  all  were,  I  believe,  re- 
freshed witli  the  interview.  Altogether,  there  were  about 
eighteen  of  us  present. 

After  the  exercise,  we  breakfasted  with  Dr.  Spring. 
The  subject  became  naturally  a  principal  one  in  our  con- 
versations. He  entered  into  it  as  warmly  as  ourselves  ; 
and  wc  agreed  that  we  would  work  in  its  favour  as  we 


I 


FOR  BOSTON. 


63 


had  occasion,  in  the  hope  that,  before  we  left,  something 
equal  to  the  object  might  be  attempted. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day,  we  left  for  Boston 
by  the  Providence  steamer.  Messrs.  Boorman  and 
Wilder,  whom  I  had  known  in  Paris,  attended  us  to  the 
boat ;  and  Dr.  Peters  and  Mr.  Vale,  of  Cincinnati,  were 
our  companions.  The  Sound,  of  which  little  is  said,  is 
very  beautiful.  We  had  to  travel  all  night ;  and,  as  the 
temptations  to  "  go  below"  were  few,  and  the  evening 
was  fine  and  warm,  I  remained  on  deck.  As  the  night 
advanced,  which  was  dark,  the  effect  of  the  sparks  emit- 
ted from  the  pine  wood  used  in  the  furnace  was  peculiar. 
You  saw  not  whence  they  came ;  they  spread  over  the 
dark  ground  of  the  sky,  and  shot  abroad  with  every  vari- 
ety of  form  and  motion ;  they  were  equal  in  brilliancy 
and  grace  to  any  fireworks  which  I  have  seen. 

Morning  came,  and  we  found  ourselves  surrounded  by 
heavy  mists  ;  so  that  the  vessel  was  obliged  to  reduce 
her  speed  ahnost  to  nothing,  for  the  want  of  landmarks. 
We  reached  Providence  four  hours  later  than  usual. 
The  mail  was  waiting  our  arrival,  and  we  went  on  by  it. 
We  travelled  at  the  rate  of  eight  miles  an  hour,  the 
quickest  I  have  witnessed  in  this  country.  It  was  very 
hot  till  we  came  within  five  miles  of  Boston,  when  the 
temperature  changed  many  degrees,  and  made  us  chilly. 
We  reached  the  Tremont  Hotel  at  half  past  seven  o'clock. 
A  meeting  of  the  Home  Missionary  Society  was  then 
assembled,  and  we  had  been  announced  as  expected. 
Persons  were  watching  the  first  arrival ;  and  Dr.  Cod- 
man  and  other  friends  were  immediately  with  us  to  con- 
vey us  to  Park-street  Church.  Remonstrance  was  in 
vain,  and  without  dressing  and  without  repose,  away  we 
went.  I  soon  found  myself  on  the  platform  of  a  crowded 
assembly  ;  and,  weary  and  dirty,  and  unwilling  as  I  was 
to  take  a  public  part  in  the  engagements  of  the  evening, 
I  was  still  happy  at  last,  and  thus  suddenly,  to  be  in  the 
midst  of  the  children  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers.  We  had  an 
excellent  meeting.  It  was  after  ten  o'clock  when  wo 
got  away ;  and  Dr.  Codman  kindly  attended  ua  to  his 


!■  I 


64 


CONGREGATIONAL  CONVENTION. 


V 


honour  Lieutenant-governor  Armstrong's,  who  had  in- 
vited us  to  a  residence  in  his  family. 

In  the  morning,  Dr.  Codman,  who  was  anxious  to 
show  us  all  kindness,  called  to  take  us  to  the  Pastoral 
Association.  It  ntiet  in  a  large  vestry  or  lecture-room ; 
there  were  about  one  hundred  present ;  the  Association, 
of  course.  embrAced  only  the  ministers  of  the  State  of 
Massachusetts.  V*  e  were  introduced  to  the  moderator, 
Dr.  Fay,  and  afterward  received  the  fraternal  congratula- 
tions of  the  brethren.  There  was  no  special  business 
before  them.  We  afterward  went  to  hear  the  annual 
sermon  for  the  Society  for  Promoting  Christian  Knowl- 
edge ;  yes,  it  is  exactly  so ;  in  this,  as  in  most  things, 
you  shall  find  here  a  type  of  all  that  we  have  in  the  olden 
land.  Mr.  Stearns  preached.  He  is  a  poet ;  and  the 
style  of  the  sermon  was  rather  too  poetical  for  prose.  It 
was  fine  ;  it  was  good  ;  but  it  did  not  carry  the  auditors 
sufficiently  from  the  preacher  to  the  subject. 

The  followmg  day  I  attended,  with  Dr.  Codman,  the 
Congregational  Convention.  This,  unlike  the  Pastoral 
Association,  includes  Unitarians.  The  Convention  is  of 
the  nature  of  our  Widow's  Fund  Society  ;  and,  like  it,  it 
embraces  persons  of  different  creeds,  and  yet  is  commit- 
ted to  an  exercise  of  pubhc  worship.  I  i  easily  see 
how  the  Unitarian  and  the  orthodox  may  act  together  for 
any  purely  civil  or  charitable  end,  withouv  difficulty  ^  but 
if  it  is  to  be  extended  to  acts  of  prayer>  and  the  ministra- 
tion of  the  word  of  hfe,  I  see  nothing  but  difficulty.  So 
far,  however,  as  the  difficulty  is  practical,  the  brethren 
think  it  is  overcome,  as  of  late  years  the  decided  majori- 
ty is  with  the  orthodox,  and  they  always  appoint,  by  the 
consent  of  the  minority,  the  preacher. 

The  business  of  the  Convention  was  unimportant,  and 
the  forms  not  peculiar.  There  were  but  few  present ;  as 
it  was  understood,  at  the  previous  meeting  yesterday, 
which  was  large,  that  little  remained  to  demand  attention. 
The  meeting  broke  up ;  and  quickly  after  the  public  ser- 
vice began  in  the  same  place.  The  sermon  was  plain 
and  orthodox ;  but  it  was  orthodoxy  with  effort,  and  or- 


BAPTIST    EDUCATION    SOCIETY. 


66 


thodoxy  fearing  to  offend.  The  worthy  preacher  felt,  I 
am  persuaded,  that  he  was  not  in  his  own  pulpit ;  and 
.d3sed  through  the  service  with  constraint. 

Of  the  public  meetings  generally  I  need  not  speak ; 
except  to  say,  that  we  had  enough  to  do  to  attend  them, 
and  that  they  were  attended  with  an  interest  and  in 
numbers  equal  in  proportion  to  what  we  had  seen  else- 
where. There  is,  however,  one  meetintj  which,  perhaps, 
I  ought  to  notice  briefly,  on  account  of  its  results,  and  on 
account  of  its  belonging  to  another  denomination. 

Wi!  had  uniformly  desired  to  show  that  our  mission 
was  not  from  one  sect  to  another  sect ;  but  from  the 
Christian  churches  of  one  land,  to  those  of  another  and 
a  sister  land  ;  and  had  sought  all  opportun.ties  of  dis- 
covering that  Catholic  spirit,  which,  after  all,  alas  !  has 
so  few  occasions  to  show  itself  The  friends  of  the 
Baptist  denomination  had  applied  to  me  to  attend  the 
meeting  of  their  Education  Society ;  and  I  readily  con- 
sented to  meet  their  wishes,  not  only  on  the  principle  to 
which  I  have  alluded,  but  to  offer  what  support  I  could 
to  the  cause  of  ministerial  education  in  that  body.  Next 
to  the  Methodists,  the  Baptists,  perhaps,  were  wanting  on 
this  subject ;  they  were  now  awaking  to  a  sense  of  the 
evils  attendant  on  an  uneducated  ministry,  and  were  de- 
manding that  their  instructers  should  themselves  first  be 
instructed. 

The  meeting  \vas  held  in  a  chapel  of  moderate  dimen-* 
sions.  It  was  full,  but  not  crowded,  and  it  had  less 
wealth  about  it  than  most  of  the  meetings.  There  were 
about  a  dozen  ministers  on  the  platform.  The  early  part 
of  the  meeting  was  not  very  promising.  After  the  re- 
port was  read,  which  was  good,  and  ought  to  have  been 
very  impressive  by  the  facts  it  recorded,  one  of  the 
brethren  rose  to  offer  a  resolution.  His  speech  was 
written,  and  he  used  the  notes  freely,  and  yet  did  not  ap- 
pear at  liberty.  It  was  an  argumem  in  support  of  the 
society  ;  reason  after  reason  was  adduced  ;  and  at  length, 
r%  the  climax  of  all,  it  was  to  be  shown,  that  the  peculiar 
ppinions  they  held  as  Baptists,  were  peculiarly  favourably 

6* 


!   I 


I    I 


66 


BAPTIST    EDUCATION    SOCIETY. 


P»'!ll 


to  the  cause  he  was  pleading.  This  was  evidently  not 
meant  for  unbaptized  ens.  The  ministers  looked  at  the 
speake/)  then  at  me  ;  the  people  were  disconcerted.  Ho, 
from  not  having  been  at  liberty,  became  coniuse;!,  and 
felt  perhaps  more  generously  than  he  need  to  liave  ^one. 
He  referred  " to  what  might  have  been  said ;  bat  as  thiy 
were  favoured  with  the  presence  of  visiters,  lie  would 
pass  it  by  ;"  and  then  he  hastened  to  a  conclus.on ;  and 
I  confess,  such  is  the  perversitN  of  our  nature,  that  I 
have  always  wished  lo  know  what  this  argument,  which 
I  am  never  to  know,  could  have  been. 

This  little  slip  of  a  brother  was  truly  Ui^eful.  It  awaken- 
ed the  dormant  feeling  in  the  meeting;  and  all  th-it  fee.- 
ing  was  kindness.  Wlien  I  rose  to  support  his  r.^iolu- 
tion  :ts  roqup'<ied,  al!  were  generously  attentive.  At  the 
close,  I  aliuaed  eniphatically  to  one  fact  in  the  report, 
which  wa ...  that  out  of  4,500  churches,  there  were  2,000 
not  only  void  of  educated  pastors,  but  void  of  pastors ; 
and  insisted  that,  literally,  they  ought  not  to  sleep  on 
such  a  state  of  things. 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Malcolm,  who  has  visited  our  country, 
and  who  is  an  excellent  minister  in  this  city,  rose  out  of 
turn,  and  expressed  his  great  pleasure  at  the  presence  of 
a  brother  from  England  ;  and  referring  to  what  had  been 
said,  he  confessed  that  he,  for  one,  could  not  sleep  with 
things  as  they  were ;  he  had  never  felt  them  as  he  did 
then ;  and  he  must  do  something  to  correspond  ;  he  pro- 
posed to  answer  for  another  scholarship.  To  support  a 
scholar  at  college  is  estimated  at  from  sixty  to  seventy 
dollars  a  year.  Another  person  below  the  platform  rose, 
and,  referring  with  much  simplicity  and  feeling  to  that 
part  of  the  report  which  announced  the  death  of  an  ex- 
cellent man  of  their  number  who  had  sustained  two 
scholarships,  said  he  would  answer  for  another  scholar- 
ship, and  then  there  would  be  no  loss  by  the  demise  of 
their  friend  to  the  society.  Another  person,  alluding  to 
the  same  bereavement  with  tears,  said  he  would  take  a 
scholarship.  By  this  time  a  delightful  feeling  was  in 
the  place ;  not  boastful  and  ostentatious,  but  meek  and 


subduec 

an  evid 

with  br 

a  sense 

swer  fo 

r  v'entiet 

another 

thing  I  ( 

heaven, 

success) 

till  they 

Still,  or 

than  FOE 

all  the  « 

I  had  y 

great,  ai 

admirab] 

One  J 

ing.     O] 

Jones,  s 

pleasure 

participa 

the  exei 

handsom 

sible    fo: 

check  foi 

of  what 

conduct. 

I  shou 

ings,  wh: 

the  Con^ 

proved 

sion,  was 

was  sug 

concert  o 

if  propos 

effect. 

then,  am 

appreciat 


PUBLIC    MEETINGS. 


67 


subdued.  I  sought  to  catch  a  Uttle  of  it,  and  to  improve 
an  evident  occasion  of  usefulness.  I  rose,  and  spoke 
with  brevity  ;  and  proposed  that  if  the  meeting,  under 
a  sense  of  duty  and  gratitude,  should  be  disposed  to  an- 
swer for  nineteen  scholarships,  I  would  answer  for  the 
r  ventieth.  This,  from  a  stranger,  and  he  belonging  to 
another  section  of  the  church,  had  an  effect  beyond  any 
thing  I  could  have  expected.  A  tender  spirit,  and  froc 
heaven,  as  I  trust,  came  over  the  people.  They  rose  in 
succession,  and  with  deep  emotion  gave  in  their  pledges 
till  they  had  made  up  the  nineteen,  and  secured  me. 
Still,  on  the  feeling  went — and  on  it  went,  till  no  less 
than  FORTY-FIVE  SCHOLARSHIPS  wcre  taken.  This,  under 
all  the  circumstances,  was  the  most  remarkable  meeting 
I  had  yet  attended :  the  effort  for  the  people  was  so 
great,  and  the  spirit  which  anointed  and  sustained  it  so 
admirable.     "  Surely  God  was  in  that  place!" 

One  pleasing  incident  I  must  yet  attach  to  this  meet- 
ing. On  the  next  morning  I  received  a  letter  from  a  Mr. 
Jones,  stating  that  he  had  been  at  the  meeting — the 
pleasure  he  had  in  having  been  there — his  pleasure  at  the 
participation  of  a  stranger  from  the  Old  Country  in 
the  exercises ;  and  a  request,  expressed  in  the  most 
handsome  terms,  that  I  would  allow  him  to  be  respon- 
sible for  my  scholarship.  This  letter  contained  the 
check  for  the  amount.  The  letter  I  value  as  a  specimen 
of  what  is  most  courteous  and  generous  in  Christian 
conduct. 

I  should,  perhaps,  have  remarked,  that  the  public  meet- 
ings, which  ran  through  the  week,  and  were  attached  to 
the  Congregational  body,  were  not  only  good ;  they  im- 
proved as  they  advanced.  The  last  the  Foreign  Mis- 
sion, was  excellent.  From  the  staw  of  the  meeting,  it 
was  suggested  to  the  managing  powers  that  a  special 
concert  of  prayer,  for  the  conversion  of  the  world,  would, 
if  proposed,  be  well  received,  and  would  have  a  happy 
effect.  It  was  kindly  received  ;  and  the  people  showed 
then,  and  afterward,  in  the  exercises,  that  they  could 
appreciate  a  devotional   service  for  such  purpose.     It 


.  I    I 


08 


OLD    SOUTH    MEETING. 


occurred,  as  proposed,  on  the  Sabbath  evening,  in  Parii- 
street  Church.  That  large  church  was  full.  I  united 
with  Drs.  Cogeswell  and  Jenks  and  Mr.  Blagden  in 
leading  the  service.  It  was  a  delightful  and  solemn 
season. 

In  the  morning  of  this  day,  I  preached  at  the  Old 
South  Meeting:  the  places  of  worship  here  preserve 
their  puritanic  designation,  although  they  have  the  form 
and  aspect  of  a  church,  equally  with  Bow  Church,  Cheap- 
side.  The  history  of  this  place  is  curious  and  interest- 
ing, and  shall  receive  more  extended  notice,  as  it  de- 
serves, should  I  hereafter  find  opportunity.  It  is,  I  be- 
lieve, the  original  place  ;  and  t  is  the  only  place  which 
held  fast  the  name  of  Christ,  an-l  kept  itself  pure  in  the 
great  defection.  It  is  the  place  whc^c  "^Vhitoueld  has 
preached,  where  the  troops  were  quartered  in  the  revo- 
lution, and  where,  to  this  day,  a  band  of  Christians  have 
continued  together,  like  the  primitive  saints,  "to  sing 
hymns  to  Christ,  to  engage  each  other  to  commit  no  sin," 
and  to  wait,  in  prayer  and  hope,  for  the  light  of  a  better 
day. 

It  is  like  one  of  our  good  old  churches,  and  is  very 
nicely  kept.  We  had  a  double  service,  as  the  sacrament 
was  to  be  administered.  The  attendance  was  large  to 
both  services ;  full  to  the  first,  and  about  four  hundred 
communicants  at  the  table.  The  saints  here  retain  more 
than  ourselves,  and  for  natural  reasons,  the  puritanic 
form  and  precision.  As  a  stranger,  I  was  kindly  sup- 
plied with  the  order  of  service.  There  were  no  less 
than  seventeen  things  to  be  done  in  succession.  Only  two 
deacons  officWted  on  the  occasion,  but  there  was  a  full 
supply  of  Gups  ahrl  plates ;  and  as  they  merely  conveyed 
them  to  one  person  in  a  given  section  (  ''  communicants, 
who  passed  it  from  i^nd  to  hand,  the  service  was  as 
.quickly,  and  perhaps  more  quietly  done,  than  when  many 
^re  employed.  Nor  do  the  deacons  sit  with  the  pastor, 
as  with  us ;  they  come  out  from  their  respective  seats, 
when  the  distribution  or  collection  is  to  happen,  and 
stand  before  him  till  he  is  ready,  and  on  fulfiUing  each 


PLYMOUTil    noCK. 


69 


service,  retire  to  their  seats.  The  whole  exercise  lasted 
about  three  hours.  All  the  associations  made  it  to  me 
an  interesting  season,  and  to  the  people,  I  trust,  not 
wholly  unprofitable.  Mr.  Matheson  spent  this  Sabbatli 
at  Dorchester,  preaching  for  Dr.  Codman. 

While  at  Boston  we  received  an  affection  le  letter 
from  the  brethren  at  Plymouth  and  its  neighbourhood, 
urging  us  to  visit  them.  It  was  quite  in  our  mind  to  do 
so ;  and  on  the  Monday  we  went.  It  was  about  the 
same  distance  as  to  Providence ;  but  the  traveUing  was 
very  different.  In  a  run  of  forty-two  miles  we  consumed 
seven  hours;  had  to  change  coaches  three  times, and  broke 
down  once.  However,  the  country  was  all  new  and 
mostly  pretty  ;  and,  as  you  know,  I  can  make  much  of  a 
little  good  scenery  wlien  there  is  not  a  great  deal  to  be  had. 
On  our  arrival,  we  found  the  Hon.  George  Robins  ready 
to  welcome  us  to  his  family,  a  man  every  way  worthy  to 
be  a  descendant  of  the  Pilgrim  Fathers. 

But  the  rock — t'  o  rock !  I  had  a  feverish  desire  to 
see  it,  and  could  not  well  address  myself  to  any  second 
thing  till  I  had.  Mr.  Robins  sympathized  with  the  feel- 
ing, and  kindly  led  us  to  the  spot,  all  the  time  making 
such  explanations  as  might  cool  down  our  enthusiasm. 
This  was  considerate ;  for  if  the  impression  were  to  be 
taken  from  present  appearance  only,  it  must  be  weak  in- 
deed. It  is  in  the  most  unpoetical  predicament  imagin- 
able. You  look  for  a  bold  piece  of  rock-work,  standing 
out  in  the  ocean,  distinct  and  alone,  great  in  its  own 
greatness ;  instead  of  which,  it  is  already  under  your 
feet ;  small  piers,  for  the  use  of  the  small  craft,  have 
been  carried  out  over  it  and  beyond  it,  and  you  require 
to  examine  the  spot  you  occupy  before  you  are  assured 
that  it  is  substantial  rock.  But  what  of  all  this  ;  it  was 
the  rock — the  very  rock  still,  which  first  offered  a  resting- 
place  to  the  foot  of  the  weary  pilgrim ;  which  was  first 
anointed  by  his  tears  and  prayers,  and  which  introduced 
him  to  "a  wealthy  place,"  where  he  might  dwell  un- 
scathed by  the  fires  of  persecution,  and  irresponsible  to 
man  in  *'  the  things  that  are  God's."     We  might,  indeed. 


70 


PUBLIC    MEETING. 


complain  of  the  neglect  and  misdoings  of  the  good  people 
in  this  mailer .  hut  for  me,  it  did  not  need  to  be  adorned 
with  the  palisade,  the  chisel,  or  the  inscription,  to  make 
it  interesting  :  I  stood  on  it,  and  trembled  as  I  stood.  I 
know  of  no  spot  more  sacred  on  earth,  except  the  one 
spot  where  the  Holy  Uue  suffered,  "  the  just  for  the  un- 
just." 

We  had  wished  only  a  social  service,  but  we  found 
that  a  public  one  had  been  fixed  for  the  next  morning. 
We  could  not,  however,  stay  over  the  morning  of  that 
day ;  and  in  this  difficulty,  it  was  necessary  to  arrange 
as  they  coulil  for  it  that  evening.  Although  there  was 
not  an  hour's  notice,  the  meeting-house  was  filled,  and  it 
would  accommodate  from  700  to  800  persons.  Unitarians 
and  Universalists  all  came.  The  Kev.  Mr.  Conant,  of 
the  Baptist  Church,  ofTered  prayer.  The  Rev.  Mr,  Bou- 
lelle  then  introduced  us  to  the  meeting,  and  addressed  us 
in  its  name.  He  has  since  supplied  me  with  a  copy  of 
his  address  ;  and  as  it  is  short  and  appropriate,  and  may 
be  taken  as  a  specimen  of  the  spirit  in  which  we  were 
received  by  the  Christians  of  New-England,  1  think  you 
will  be  pleased  by  its  insertion  : — 

'*  It  is  with  heartfelt  gratification.  Rev.  sirs,  that  we 
welcome  you  to  this  hallowed  spot,  where  our  forefathers 
first  planted  their  feet — a  spot  hallowed  by  their  suffer- 
ings and  tears,  their  pious  labours  and  sleeping  dust. 

"  We  welcome  you  as  descendants  of  the  Puritans, — 
that  noble  race  of  men,  who,  during  the  sixteenth  cen- 
tury, rose  as  benefactors  of  mankind,  and  in  the  midst  of 
surrounding  darkness,  hung  up,  in  mid  heaven,  the  lamp 
of  civil  and  religious  freedom;  thus  kindling  a  light 
which  has  been  glowing  ever  since  with  a  constantly  in- 
creasing lustre,  and  which  is  destined  to  blaze  on  until 
its  bright  beams  shall  have  illuminated  every  dark  spot 
on  earth. 

"  Descended  from  the  Puritans  ourselves,  we  delight 
to  cherish  their  memory,  and  to  extend  our  fraternal  love 
to  those  of  their  posterity  dwelling  on  the  other  side  of 
^e  water. 


J 


I  ■, 


bur  fore! 
most  con 

"As  ( 
churches 
tending  a 
the  faith 
church  p( 
but  feel 
we  rejoic 
workers 

"As  c 
whence  o 
of  literal 
much  is 
advancen 
great  fan 
glory.  J 
you,  and 

"  May 
rendering 
both  in  E 
to  the  str 
in  one  c 
powerful 

Of  coi 
address^ 
devolved 
hymn  in 
&c.  I  1 
sung  it  ii 
It  was,  ( 
evidently 
this  smal 
permanei 

As  ya 
aid  your 
township 
four  orth 


ADDRESS. 


71 


"  Our  ancestors  were  your  ancestors  ;  your  forefathers 
bur  forefathers  ;  we  therefore  are  bretliren.  As  such, 
most  cordially  do  we  welcome  you. 

"As  delegates  from  more  than  1,600  Congregational 
churches  in  our  father  land,  we  welcome  you.  Con- 
tending as  those  churches  are  for  religious  toleration,  for 
the  faith  of  our  common  ancestors,  and  for  that  form  of 
church  polity  for  which  they  so  nobly  struggled,  we  cannot 
but  feel  a  deep  interest  in  your  welfare.  We  pray  (br^ 
we  rejoice  in  your  prosperity  ;  and  we  will  strive  to  be  co- 
workers in  promoting  essentially  the  same  great  objects. 

"  As  citizens  of  England,  we  welcome  you — that  land 
whence  our  Pilgrim  Fathers  came ; — that  land  of  science, 
of  literature,  and  of  great  national  prosperity,  where  so 
much  is  doing  for  the  cause  of  human  freedom,  for  the 
advancement  of  pure  religion,  for  the  amelioration  of  the 
great  family  of  man,  and  the  ushering  in  of  millennial 
glory.  As  brethren  of  our  common  Lord,  we  welcome 
you,  and  commend  you  to  his  favour  and  protection. 

"May  Heaven  smile  propitiously  on  your  mission, 
rendering  it  subservient  to  the  interests  of  his  kingdom, 
both  in  England  and  America,  and  making  it  conducive 
to  the  strengthening  of  those  cords,  which  should  unite 
in  one  common  brotherhood  two  nations,  exerting  a 
powerful  influence  on  the  destinies  of  the  world." 

Of  course,  we  could  do  no  less  than  acknowledge  the 
addre»Sv  The  last  address  and  the  concluding  prayer 
devolved  on  me ;  and  we  then  united  in  singing  the  fine 
hymn  in  Watts — "  Give  me  the  wings  of  faith  to  rise," 
&c.  I  never  saw  so  much  of  its  beauty,  for  I  never 
sung  it  in  such  appropriate  and  affecting  circumstances. 
It  was,  on  the  whole,  a  remarkable  service ;  and  wai* 
evidently  deemed  a  considerable  event  in  the  history  of 
this  small  and  quiet  town — an  event,  I  trust,  not  without 
permanent  advantages. 

As  you  will  have  a  strorrg  interest  in  this  place,  I  will 
aid  your  conceptions  of  it  by  briefly  stating,  that  the 
township  has  a  population  of  5,400  persons.  There  are 
four  orthodox  Congregational  places,  having  1,S00  hear- 


'    I 


72 


Tr.Ml'EftANCE. — DL'IMAL-CJUOLM). 


'^ 


ers,  and  400  communicants  ;  there  is  one  Baptist,  having 
about  350  hearers  and  100  communicants  ;  there  are  ontj 
Unitarian  and  one  UniversaUst,  luiving  together  about  600 
hearers  and  about  40  conununicants.  The  schools  are 
in  proportion.  About  000  of  tiie  males  are  sailors.  In 
consequence  of  a  neglect  of  pure  religion,  and  a  corre- 
sponding temptation  to  the  use  of  ardent  spirits,  the  peo- 
ple had  sadly  degenerated  from  tlie  manners  of  their 
lathers ;  but  there  is  now,  in  manners  and  in  religion,  a 
great  change  for  the  bettor.  The  Temperance  cause 
here  has  wrought  most  beneticially.  Three  fourths  of 
the  pauperism  has  been  destroyed  by  it ;  and  last  year, 
where  so  much  liquor  was  once  used,  not  one  person  ap- 
plied for  a  license  to  sell  it.  Many  might  still  have  been 
glad  of  the  profits ;  but  none  was  willing  to  incur  the  in- 
famy, for  such  it  would  have  been  in  this  community. 

With  such  decided  benefits  always  visible  to  them,  it 
is  not  wonderful  if  the  good  cause  should  have  been,  in 
some  instances,  pressed  too  far.  We  had  often  heard 
that  many,  in  their  zeal,  had  pledged  themselves  and 
each  other  to  disuse  tea,  coffee,  &c. ;  but  had  not  met 
with  such  persons.  There  were  many  here  ;  and  our  ex- 
cellent hostess,  at  least,  provided  lor  such  a  state  of 
things.  At  our  tea-service,  I  observed  that  there  were 
two  pots,  as  usual.  When  asked,  which  I  would  take  ? 
I  replied,  "  Tea  and  coffee,  have  you  ?"  "  No,  sir,"  was 
the  answer;  "the  one  is  tea,  and  the  other  is  water." 
And  this  arrangement  was  necessary ;  for  one  half  of  the 
persons  present,  I  should  think,  declined  the  tea,  and 
took  either  water,  or  milk  and  water. 

The  next  morning,  early,  we  visited  the  Court-House, 
the  Pilgrim  Hall,  and  the  Burial-Ground.  The  first  has 
nothing  very  remarkable  besides  the  original  charter, 
signed  "Warwick."  The  Hall  is  a  recent  erection,  and 
still  unfinished.  It  is  for  the  speeches  on  the  commem- 
oration days,  and  for  the  care  of  relics  and  curiosities. 
At  present  there  are  not  many,  nor  do  these  demand  to 
be  noted.  The  Burial-Ground  is  unique.  It  is  on  the 
face  of  a  rude  hill  above  the  town,  and  has,  in  a  high  <^''- 


gree,  a  i 
It  is  the , 
the  date 
more  the 
Fathers 
it  speak: 
and  are 
effect  be 
ing  but  t 
all,  man^ 

Wher« 
allowed 
and  requ 
before  w 
together 
I  urged  I 
did :  I  m 
forget  hi 
were  all 

Other 
our  stay 
ative;  ar 
beloved  : 
itself  dis 
will  soon 

From 
but  I  sha 
teresting 
subseque 
will  allov 

Vol.  I 


DEPARTURE. 


n 


gree,  a  rough,  weather-worn,  old,  and  venerable  aspect. 
It  is  the  genealogical  table  of  the  whole  people.  Many  of 
the  dates  go  back  almost  to  the  first  settlers.  It  realizes, 
more  than  any  thing,  to  the  mmd,  the  whole  story  of  the 
Fathers ;  and,  more  than  most  things  in  this  new  country, 
it  speaks  of  an  olden  time — of  men  and  things  that  wcro 
and  are  not,  and  have  long  gone  by.  Give  it  me  for 
effect  before  Pere  la  Chaise.  It  is  the  grave,  and  noth- 
ing but  the  grave.  It  must  be  seen  to  be  felt ;  and,  after 
all,  many  will  see  and  not  feel. 

Where  I  could  have  coveted  hours,  minutes  only  were 
allowed  me.  I  hastened  home,  to  prepare  for  leaving, 
and  requested  that  we  might  have  a  special  act  of  prayer 
before  we  separated.  Our  host  brought  all  his  family 
together  from  their  various  abodes — three  generations. 
I  urged  him  to  present  our  prayers ;  and  it  was  well  I 
did :  I  might  have  forgot  him  otherwise ;  I  shall  never 
forget  him  now.  I  think  we  all  prayed ;  certainly  we 
were  all  interested- 
Other  ministers  and  friends  now  arrived,  expecting 
our  stay ;  but  our  coach  was  ready,  and  our  calls  imper- 
ative ;  and  at  ten  o'clock  we  left  for  Boston.  Soon  our 
beloved  friends  were  out  of  sight ;  and  soon  Plymouth 
itself  disappeared ;  but  neither  the  one  nor  the  other 
will  soon  pass  from  memory. 

From  this  time  we  stayed  only  a  single  day  in  Boston ; 
but  I  shall  have  more  to  say  of  this  important  and  in- 
teresting city.  This  I  wish,  however,  to  reserve  for  a 
subsequent  visit,  as  it  was  a  period  of  greater  leisure,  and 
will  allow  me  to  do  so  with  more  matured  knowledge. 
Vol.  I.— D  7 


'    t 

;   ■  :\ 
1  I  '! 


74 


JOURNEY. 


LETTER  VIII. 


Mv 


The 


DEAR 

reason 


f  'f 


Friend, 

of  quitting  the  metropolis  of  New-Eng- 
land so  soon,  IS  to  be  found  in  some  variation  of  plan. 
In  consequence  of  the  earnest  representations  made  from 
Canada,  we  determined  to  visit  that  country  ;  and  this 
made  it  needful  to  resolve  on  staying  over  the  month  of 
September,  instead  of  returning  in  that  month,  as  at  first 
proposed.  Throughout,  I  had  determined  to  visit  the 
West ;  and  it  appeared  that  both  visits  might  be  more 
safely  made  at  the  commencement,  than  at  the  close  of 
the  summer.  With  these  views,  we  prepared  to  move 
immediately  in  these  directions;  and  to  reserve  the 
month  of  September  for  a  revisit  to  these  States.  We 
have  much  cause  to  be  thankful  that  we  came  to  these 
arrangements,  as,  quickly  after  we  had  left  the  Canadas, 
the  cholera  swept  over  the  whole  territory ;  and  the 
West,  though  dangerous  to  a  foreigner  when  I  was  there, 
was  becoming  daily  more  so. 

We  left  early  on  the  morning  of  the  5th,  after  rather 
exhausting  services  on  the  previous  day,  for  Burlington, 
which  was  to  be  a  journey  of  three  days.  The  coach 
arrangements  at  present  have  little  regard  to  the  conveni- 
ence of  the  passengers.  At  the  office,  on  inquiring  at 
what  time  we  were  to  start,  the  answer  was,  "  At  four 
o'clock."  "  And  the  next  day  1"  «*  At  four  o'clock." 
"  And  the  third  day  V  Still,  "  at  four  o'clock."  And 
to  start  at  four,  of  course  it  was  necessary  to  be  up  ai 
three.  And  all  this  was  without  advantage.  We  travel- 
led on  an  average  about  seventy  miles  a  day  ;  and  arri- 
ved each  day  in  the  afternoon.  For  us  to  have  been  two 
hours  later,  would  have  been  no  inconvenience  ;  and  to 
have  started  so  much  later,  a  great  accommodation. 

Most  of  the  way  we  had  a  soaking  rain.     The  coach 


COACHMAN. 


75 


was  of  the  ordinary  kind,  such  as  I  have  described  it ; 
and  though  it  is  open  and  cheerful  in  fair  weather,  when 
it  is  closed  on  account  of  cold  or  heavy  rain,  it  is  dark 
and  confined,  and  prison-like,  beyond  any  thing  we  know. 
However,  these  occasions  took  one  out  of  more  select 
circles,  and  allowed  you  to  look  on  the  world  in  this 
country  as  it  is,  and  from  this  circumstance  they  were 
desirable.  The  present  was  by  no  means  an  unfruitful 
v>ccasion ;  if  we  were  shut  up  greatly  from  the  objects 
on  the  roadside,  the  companions  of  our  journey  supplied 
us,  if  not  with  edification,  certainly  with  some  entertain- 
ment. First  of  all,  our  coachman  was  a  very  saucy  fel- 
low ;  he  evidently  thought  himself  better  than  one  half 
of  his  passengers,  and  as  good  as  the  other  half.  I  com- 
plained to  him,  when  we  stopped,  that  my  luggage  was 
getting  wet.  "  Why,"  he  exclaimed,  "  you  don't  expect 
to  keep  it  dry  such  a  day  as  this,  do  you  1"  "  Why,"  I 
replied,  "  it  is  the  very  sort  of  day  in  whicli  it  is  your 
duty  to  keep  it  dry !"  "  Ha,  ha,  it  will  be  all  right,"  he 
cried,  and  left  me.  In  the  end,  T  found  that  it  was 
soaked  through.  He  did,  indeed,  give  some  directions 
on  the  subject ;  but  the  care  of  the  luggage  has  little  at- 
tention here. 

When  we  stopped  at  Lowell,  to  change  horses,  a  fe- 
male wished  to  secure  a  place  onward.  We  were  al- 
ready, as  the  phrase  is,  more  than  full ;  we  had  nine  per- 
sons, and  two  children,  which  are  made  to  go  for  noth- 
ing except  in  the  waybill.  Our  saucy  driver  opened  t  ■■ 
door,  and  addressing  two  men,  who,  with  us,  would  have 
been  outside  passengers,  "  Now,  I  say,  I  want  one  of 
you  to  ride  with  me,  and  let  a  lady  have  your  seat." 
The  men  felt  they  were  addressed  by  a  superior,  but 
kept  their  places.  "  Come,  I  say,"  he  continued,  "  you 
shall  have  a  good  buffalo  and  umbrel,  and  nothing  will 
hurt  you."  Still  they  kept  their  places,  and  refused  him. 
His  lordship  was  offended,  and  ready  to  lay  hands  on 
one  of  them ;  but,  checking  himself,  exclaimed,  "  Well, 
if  I  can't  get  you  out,  hang  it,  if  I'll  take  you  on  till  one 
of  you  gets  out."     And  there  we  stood  for  some  time ; 

Da 


76 


A    CHARACTER 


and  he  gained  his  point  at  last,  and  in  civiller  terms,  by 
persuading  the  persons  on  the  middle  seat  to  receive  the 
lady  ;  so  that  we  had  now  twelve  inside.  I  name  this 
as  it  occurred ;  not  as  a  sample  of  this  class  of  men. 
Generally,  they  feel  that  they  owe  you  nothing ;  but  if 
they  offer  you  few  attentions,  they  seldom  offend  you. 
This  was  the  worst  instance  I  met  with,  I  think,  at  any 
time. 

Then  within,  crowded  and  almost  suffocated  as  we 
were,  we  had  an  old  lady  who  did  not  fail  to  amuse  us. 
She  sat  opposite  me,  and  would  force  a  conversation ; 
and  as  her  voice  was  sharp  and  shrill,  what  was  meant 
for  me  went  to  all,  and  diverted  all.  "  As  for  religion, 
she  thought  one  as  good  as  another,  if  we  did  our  duty  ; 
and  her  notion  of  duty  was,  to  mind  our  own  business. 
For  her  part,  she  had  always  done  so — she  ridiculed 
those  who  employed  others  to  do  it  for  them — she  could 
always  do  hers  best  for  herself — she  could  make  fifteen 
per  cent,  of  money — had  small  sums  out  now  at  fifteen 
per  cent."  She  felt  that  this  was  not  approved.  "  Oh, 
she  was  not  hard  with  the  poor  creatures — if  they  were 
pressed,  she  waited,  and  lent  them  a  little  more,  so  that 
they  could  pay  at  last.  She  had  always  been  unmai  led, 
not  for  want  of  offers,  but  she  liked  her  independence, 
and  would  resent  the  ofTer  of  any  man  who  would  want 
to  get  her  property."  I  remarked,  that  she  had  done  well 
not  to  marry ;  as  a  person  like  herself,  who  could  do 
every  thing  so  well,  could  have  no  need  of  a  husband. 
"  Right,  right,  sir,"  she  cried,  laughing.  Then,  getting 
thoughtful,  she  continued,  "  But  I  have  a  great  deal  of 
care ;  and  I  often  think  1  should  like  to  retire,  and  be  quiet ; 
and  then  I  feel  as  though  I  could  not  be  quiet — and  then 
I  should  have  no  friend.  I  should  want  a  friend  if  I  re- 
tired— else  I  could  afford  it,  you  know."  "  O,  I  had  no 
doubt  of  her  having  a  handsome  property."  "  0,  no,  sir, 
your  joke  is  very  pretty  ;  but  I  did  not  mean  to  say  I  was 
rich.  I  have  somewhere  or  other  about  7,000  dollars  ; 
but  I  guess  you  have  more  money  than  all  of  us  put  to- 
gether."    And  thus  she  continued  through  the  journey, 


neverl 

ply.  A 

was 
but  a  I 
scale 
all  evil 
destro] 
Wei 
brethre 
ing  of  I 
with  tl: 


PINE    SCENERY. 


77 


never  embarrassed,  always  prepared  to  meet  you  in  re- 
ply, and  always  satisfied  with  her  own  shrewdness.  She 
was  really  a  character — person,  features,  dress,  all — 
but  a  most  pitiable  one.  A  great  usurer  on  a  small 
scale  ;  the  love  of  money  had  become  in  her  the  root  of 
all  evil ;  it  made  her  indifferent  to  a  future  world,  and 
destroyed  all  that  was  feminine,  tender,  and  benevolent. 

We  reached  Concord  in  the  afternoon.  Many  of  the 
brethren  had  arrived  here  to  take  their  place  in  the  meet- 
ing of  the  Pastoral  Association.  We  took  our  repast 
with  them,  and  united  in  prayer,  and  then  retired  to  or- 
inn,  as  we  had  to  start  again  early  in  the  morning. 

The  next  day  we  left  for  Royalton.  It  was  a  fine 
day,  and  we  had  a  most  delightful  ride.  I  could  per- 
ceive that  the  previous  ride  offered  some  fine  scenery  to 
the  eye,  but  it  was  now  evidently  improving,  and  to  en- 
joy it,  I  took  my  seat  with  the  driver.  The  views  on 
the  borders  of  the  Connecticut,  and  the  Black  and  White 
rivers,  are  full  of  picture,  and  will  compare  with  some  of 
the  good  things  on  the  Rhine  and  the  Bangor  road.  The 
objects  are  brought  closer  together  than  is  common  in 
this  coimtry,  and  give  force  to  each  other.  They  are, 
too,  just  what  you  could  desire  ;  but  I  must  not  dwell 
upon  them.  Conceive  of  yourself  running  along  the 
margin  of  a  sweet  river,  sometimes  in  quiet,  sometimes 
in  gushing  motion;  of  undulating  land,  of  green  corn 
fields,  of  pretty  cottages,  of  hill  rising  above  hill,  clothed 
with  verdant  and  olive  fir-trees,  and  of  the  Green  Moun- 
tains of  Vermont,  lying  in  the  distance,  all  placed  in  their 
best  relations  to  each  other ;  and  you  will,  in  som«  de- 
gree, participate  in  the  actual  scenes  and  pleasuies  of 
this  ride. 

We  passed  through  some  interesting  towns  and  vil- 
lages. Hanover  is  one  of  them ;  pleasantly  situated,  and 
reputed  for  its  college.  Montpelier  is  a  young  and 
thriving  town,  and  is  raising  to  itself  a  very  handsome 
court-house.  One  office  that  we  should  deem  consider- 
able, however,  remauiS  on  its  old  scale.  It  is  a  wooden 
room,  not  a  house,  with  its  gable-end  to  the  street ;  the 

7* 


78 


SHAKERS. 


door  was  standing  open,  exhibiting  a  desk,  table, 'and 
chair  of  the  plainest  kind.  Over  the  door  was  the  label, 
Secretary  of  State.  A  small  plate  with  the  word  "  Mu- 
tual" on  it,  now  began  to  make  its  appearance  over  or 
on  the  doors.  At  first  it  might  be  taken  for  the  name 
of  the  resident ;  but  v/e  soon  found  that  there  was  an 
ensurance  company  bearing  that  designation.  I  was 
pleased  to  observe,  that  most  of  the  detached  dwellings 
had  on  them,  or  near  them,  raised  on  a  pole,  a  bird-cote 
for  the  use  of  the  marten,  the  wren,  and  the  blue-bird. 
They  were  frequently  a  miniature  representation  of  the 
house  itself;  and  they  were  a  grateful  assurance  of  the 
kind-heartedness  of  the  people.  Such  habits  are  beau- 
tifully illustrative  of  that  religion,  which  teaches  us  that 
God  cares  for  the  lowest  work  of  his  hands,  and  which 
commands  us  to  be  the  cheerful  ministers  of  his  mercy 
towards  them. 

Sharon  and  Canterbury,  also,  are  delightful  locations. 
The  latter  is  a  Shaker  settlement.  I  will  not  now  de- 
tain you  by  setting  down  the  extravagances  of  this  peo- 
ple. Their  great  peculiarity  is,  that  they  repudiate  mar- 
riage, and  the  intercourse  of  the  sex'^"  :  they  can,  there- 
fore, only  exist  as  an  excrescence  on  society.  They 
are  a  sort  of  Protestant  monastery ;  and  their  settlements 
are  fed  by  similar  causes.  But,  apart  from  their  religious 
views,  their  economy,  in  its  effects,  is  admirable.  I  have 
sfrsn  several  of  their  fstablishments,  and  all  of  them,  like 
this,  are  finely  situated,  finely  cultivated,  and  in  the  best 
state  of  preservation.  There  are  no  farms  like  theirs  : 
and  in  the  market  their  articles  go  by  their  name,  and 
fetch  a  higher  price  in  consequence.  Their  dwellings 
have  the  same  character;  they  are  neat,  clean,  well 
painted  and  kepi.  The  eye  was  refreshed  by  the  spec- 
tacle, standing,  as  it  did,  in  contrast  with  all  around  it ; 
and  there  was  nothing  to  abate  the  satisfaction,  except 
that  the  people  did  not  look  happy,  and  that — there  were 
no  childre 

We  began  now  to  meet  with  the  wooden  brvdge, 
which  abounds  in  this  country.     It  is  usually  sustained 


THE    GULF   ROAD. 


w 


on  stone  or  wooden  uprights,  and  composed  of  trussed 
girders,  with  ioose  boarding,  and  mostly  with  a  roof  to 
protect  it  from  the  weather.  A  notice  is  put  up  at  each 
end,  of  No  trotting  over  this  bridge  ;  a  most  needful  pro- 
vision, for  certainly  a  good  trot  would  bring  some  of 
them  down.  A  few  of  the  more  important  ones  have 
been  constructed  recently  on  an  excellent  principle,  and 
are  very  steady.  They  say  you  should  "  speak  well  of 
the  bridge  that  c  trries  you  safe  over ;"  and  certainly  I 
never  felt  so  much  disposition  to  do  a  set  of  bridges  jus- 
tice, for  while  they  always  discharged  their  duty,  they 
often  left  me  wondering  how  ihey  were  able  to  do  it. 

We  met  on  this  route  with  a  grsat  many  Irish,  who 
were  passing  from  Uanada  to  Lowell  and  Boston  for  em- 
ployment :  many  of  them  very  poor,  and  suffering  much. 
Those  who  still  had  some  means  clubbed  together  and 
hired  a  cart,  and  this  took  the  women  and  children ;  the 
weaker  men  getting  relief  in  turn.  One  poor  fellow, 
with  bare  and  blistered  feet,  and  haggard  look,  cast  a 
very  imploring  eye  on  me.  I  felt  he  was  a  countryman, 
and  that  we  were  both  strangers  in  a  strange  land ;  I  cast 
him  what  little  silver  I  had ;  and  his  "  God  bless  your 
honour"  touched  my  heart,  for  it  spoke  to  me  of  home. 

The  next  day  we  were  to  reach  Burlington.  We  had 
been  charged  to  go  by  the  Gulf  road,  as  presenting  some 
extraordinary  scenery ;  and  I  was  rejoiced  to  find,  that 
on  this  day  the  coach  took  that  course.  With  high  ex- 
pectations I  took  my  seat  again  outside,  much  to  the  sur- 
prise of  the  coachman,  as  no  one  sits  with  him  by  choice. 
The  early  ride  resembled  what  occurred  yesterday ;  but 
differently  circumstanced.  Heavy  mists  hung  over  the 
landscape,  as  if  unwilling  to  be  compared  with  what  was 
to  follow.  Then,  aa  the  day  advanced,  the  sleeping 
mists  began  to  expand  and  separate,  to  curl  and  sail  over 
tho  picture,  veiling  and  unveiling  all  by  turns,  so  as  to 
clothe  it  with  a  bewitching  loveliness. 

At  length  the  features  began  to  heighten  and  concen- 
trate, and  indicated  that  something  greater  was  to  come. 
A.S  we  ran  down  an  inclined  plane,  the  scene  continued 


80 


THE    GULP  ROAD. 


!  m 


to  thicken  and  rise  about  us,  till  we  found  ourselves  in 
the  very  crevice  of  the  gulf,  shut  up  from  every  thing 
beside,  and  with  only  room  for  our  carriage  and  a  small 
slow  stream  to  make  their  way  through  the  surrounding 
brushwood.  The  gulf  is  three  miles  through  ;  it  is  com- 
posed of  precipitous  hills,  running  twice  the  height  of 
those  at  Clifton ;  they  are  much  closer  and  finer  clothed. 
At  one  point  especially  it  is  most  striking.  The  slug- 
gish water  gathers  life  and  tumbles  over  a  rocky  slope 
on  which  you  stand,  with  sweet  gushing  sounds.  You 
occupy  a  dell  into  which  the  sun  never  shines.  You 
look  up  on  surrounding  galleries  of  bold  and  beautiful 
hills,  clothed  all  over  with  the  bursting  green  foliage  of 
spring,  and  mingled  with  the  dark  hues  and  grand  forms 
of  the  primitive  pine.  The  sun  has  risen  in  all  his  efful- 
gence on  the  upper  world ;  and  his  vivid  lights  shoot 
across  the  picture,  so  as  to  cover  its  higher  parts  with 
all  his  brilliancy,  and  to  leave  you  in  a  staie  of  distance 
and  darkness  which  is  felt  and  visible.  It  is,  as  a  scene, 
perfect  of  its  kind.  But  I  know  not  that  it  is  now  what 
it  was  then.  As  we  began  to  ascend  we  found  the  hand 
of  man  busy  in  indiscriminate  destruction. 

But  I  will  not  trouble  you  wit!",  unavailing  lamenta- 
tions. On  getting  free  of  the  gulf,  the  scenery  was  still 
good.  One  view  especially  was  in  contrast  with  it,  and 
at  that  time  of  a  very  novel  character.  The  hills  stili 
stood  about  you  in  grandeur.  The  forests  had  some 
years  since  been  fired.  Yorung  timber  had  grown  up  in 
their  stead ;  but  the  blasted  and  black  firs  rose  above  all 
on  the  rocks  and  heights,  as  of  other  generations,  and 
gave,  in  an  eminent  degree,  an  air  of  wild  sublimity  to 
the  scene.  It  was  the  hour  of  noon,  and  every  thing 
supported  the  gt^eral  impression.  The  indolent  river 
seemed  to  sleep  on  the  greensv  rd.  The  woodman's 
cot  was  deserted ;  the  door  open ;  the  axe  and  billet 
lying  on  the  threshold.  Nor  man,  nor  child,  nor  beast, 
nor  bird,  was  to  be  seen  or  heard.  Nothing  broke  on 
the  wild  silence  of  that  hour  but  the  distant  cry  of  the 
bull-frog. 


. 


We  ar 
ner,  and  v 
I  was  gr 
tricts  of 
tensively 
countries 
possessio 
stump,  f( 
seasons 
is  poor,  ii 
dition  of 
expense 
mostly  to 
for  less 
than  a  ne 
dcstructic 
each  oth( 
by  felling 
if  it  is  wj 
consists  i 
son ;  it  v\ 
sometime 
fired,  and 
miles,  CO 
method,  € 
the  tree,  ^ 
When  the 
trees  rero.i 
in  every 
some  occ 
thing  I  hj 
the  great 
f),nd  if  y< 
know  tha 
settlemen 

On  res 
sights  w< 
ruminate 


I  ■ 


CLEARING. 


81 


We  arrived  at  a  small  place  called  Waterbury,  to  din- 
ner, and  were  supplied  with  the  plainest  accommodations. 
I  was  greatly  surprised  to  find,  in  this  old  country,  dis- 
tricts of  such  wild  aspect,  and  clearings  going  on  so  ex- 
tensively. But  they  prevail  here  as  much  as  in  the  new 
countries,  and  from  the  following  cause.  Parties  take 
possession  of  the  land,  and  clear  it  by  firing  all  but  the 
stump,  for  they  are  sure  to  be  rewarded  for  one  or  two 
seasons  with  good  crops.  By  this  time  the  land,  which 
is  poor,  is  exhausted,  and  will  only  repay  them  on  con- 
dition of  being  well  cultivated.  Rather  than  go  to  this 
expense  or  labour,  they  abandon  it,  and  move  elsewhere, 
mostly  to  the  west,  where  they  find  a  soil  more  grateful 
for  less  exertion.  The  land  is  no  sooner  abandoned 
than  a  new  forest  springs  up ;  and  thus  the  processes  of 
destruction  and  renovation  are  continually  succeeding 
each  other.  The  methods  of  removing  the  timber  are 
by  felling,  by  filing,  and  by  girdling.  The  first  is  used 
if  it  is  wanted,  or  will  fetch  a  price ;  the  second  method 
consists  in  setting  fire  to  some  of  the  trees  in  the  dry  sea- 
son ;  it  will  quickly  spread  to  any  extent  you  desire,  and 
sometimes  beyond  it.  A  small  plot  in  this  vicinity  was 
fired,  and  the  fire  ran  over  a  district  of  twelve  square 
miles,  consuming  every  thing  in  its  way.  The  third 
methody  of  girdling,  is  by  cutting  a  ring  in  the  bark  of 
the  tree,  which  prevents  the  sap  from  rising,  and  kills  it. 
When  the  methods  of  firing  and  girdling  are  adopted,  the 
trees  remain  a  long  period  leafless,  withered,  blasted,  and 
in  every  stage  of  ruin;  and  they  give  to  the  scene,  on 
some  occasions,  an  air  of  grand  desolation,  unlike  every 
thing  I  had  beheld.  So  far  as  husbandry  is  concerned, 
the  great  expense  lies  iu  extracting  the  prodigious  roots  ; 
and  if  you  see  this  operation  going  forward,  you  may 
know  that  the  party  has  determined  on  a  permanent 
settlement. 

On  reaching  our  dinner  station,  I  concluded  that  my 
sights  were  over  for  the  day,  and  was  quite  willing  to 
ruminate  on  what  the  eye  had  seen.     To  my  astonish* 

D3 


82 


THE   PALLS 


ment,  however,  we  had  not  got  two  miles  from  the  inn, 
before  we  reached  what  are  called  the  Waterbury  Falls ; 
and  a  view  was  opened  before  us  surpassing  all  that  had 
been  previously  exhibited.  But  how  shall  I  make  you 
see  it  1  Let  us  try.  A  sweet  smiling  river  is  gliding 
along,  like  a  bed  of  quicksilver,  at  your  feet.  A  little 
below  you,  its  quiet  course  is  obstructed  by  a  rock, 
which  springs  suddenly  from  its  bed,  and  which  is  in 
place,  form,  and  colour,  among  the  finest  I  have  seen ; 
and  it  is  crowned  with  dark  and  primitive  firs.  One 
half  the  river  runs  off  to  the  left  with  quickened  motion, 
but  in  friendly  channels ;  while,  on  the  right,  the  other 
half  has  cut  its  passage  through  the  rock,  and  is  dashing 
down  the  ruin  it  has  made.  Beyond  this  obstruction, 
you  see  the  two  streams  hastening  to  embrace  each 
other,  like  sisters  who  have  been  separated  and  in 
trouble,  but  are  one  again.  This  is  the  foreground. 
Then,  on  the  one  hand,  close  on  the  Fall,  rises  abruptly 
rather  a  mountain  than  a  hill,  presenting  you  with  a  ledge 
of  rock-work,  by  which  you  are  to  pass,  overhanging  the 
waters,  overshadowed  with  trees,  and  supplying  you  with 
a  loop-hole  to  look  out  on  the  distant  scenery.  On  the 
other  hand,  tiers  of  hills  form  themselves  into  receding 
and  rising  galleries,  adorned  with  forests  of  the  brightest 
and  darkest  hues.  Before  and  beyond,  others  still  spread 
themselves  in  the  distance,  in  rival  forms  of  loveliness, 
till  at  length  the  picture  is  closed  by  the  fine  outline  of 
the  camel-backed  mountain.  The  distant  openings  sup- 
ply the  picture  with  all  the  advantages  of  perspective ; 
the  striking  foreground  is  thrown  up  with  surprising 
power ;  while  the  eye  reposes  beyond  it  in  fields  of 
softened  brightness  and  beauty. 

But  I  must  have  done  with  descriptions  ;  at  least,  of 
this  class.  Did  I  not  know  that  you  have  strong  tastes 
for  the  beauties  of  nature,  and  that  they  contribute  so 
delightfully  to  the  innocent  gratifications  of  life,  I  should 
fear  I  had  utterly  wearied  you.  But  I  really  want  you 
to  become  acquainted  with  this  people  and  with  this 


country 
that  acq 
pretensi( 
Early 
ton ;  and 
all  its  gl 
to  comp: 
new  cha 
town  is 
and  for  I 
vancing 
lake  to  S 
joined  tli 
looked  o 
the  piazz 
scene  im 
ing,  but 
I  found  I 
centre  oi 
ton ;  and 
cially  oc( 
here  of  y 
and  were 
of  their 
to  his  sa 
and  anot 
tant   she 
His  voic 
a  bell,  to 
To  hear 
only  six 
cents  an 
any  mori 
crack  hi 
cents  an 
One  F 
ing  a  ta 
several 
poor  ma 


BURLINGTON. 


83 


country  ;  and  these  sketches  may  possibly  assist  you  to 
that  acquaintance  better  than  means  of  more  imposing 
pretensions. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  we  came  in  sight  of  Burhng- 
ton ;  and  below  it  lay  the  Lalie  Champlain,  expanding  in 
all  its  glory.  Had  I  wished  for  another  scene  this  day 
to  compare  with  the  previous  ones,  and  yet  of  an  entirely 
new  character,  I  could  hardly  have  had  a  better.  The 
town  is  excellently  situated,  for  health,  for  appearance, 
and  for  business ;  and  it  is  in  a  very  thriving  and  ad- 
vancing state.  The  boat  by  which  we  were  to  cross  the 
lake  to  St.  John's,  would  not  arrive  till  ten  o'clock.  We 
joined  the  evening  meal  at  the  table  d^hdte ;  and  having 
looked  over  the  town  and  the  bookstore,  took  a  seat  under 
the  piazza  of  the  inn,  and  watched  for  the  boat.  The 
scene  immediately  before  me  was  animated  and  interest- 
ing, but  it  hardly  agreed  with  the  quiet  joys  of  the  day. 
I  found  myself  on  one  side  of  a  square,  which  was  the 
centre  of  bustle  and  parade  to  the  good  town  of  Burling- 
ton ;  and  being  the  last  evening  in  the  week,  it  was  spe- 
cially occupied.  The  inn  itself  w a?  vciy  noisy.  Num- 
bers of  youth  who  boarded  here,  had  closed  their  labours, 
and  were  full  of  frolic.  The  boys  were  engaged  in  some 
of  their  stormy  plays.  One  auctioneer  had  just  finished, 
to  his  satisfaction,  his  mountebank  sale  before  the  door ; 
and  another  had  just  begun  his  noisy  gibberish  in  a  dis- 
tant shop.  Though  distant,  I  could  distinctly  hear. 
His  voice,  in  the  first  instance,  answered  the  purpose  of 
a  bell,  to  call  the  people  together,  and  it  did  it  effectually. 
To  hear  him  cry  as  he  did  !  "  Six  cents  and  a  half — ■ 
only  six  cents  and  a  half!  What!  shall  it  go  for  six 
cents  and  a  half? — shall  it  go  for  nothing! — Nobody  bid 
any  more — not  another  cent !"  That  ever  man  should 
crack  his  voice,  and  emit  a  world  of  noise,  about  six 
cents  and  a  half ! 

One  person — a  gentleman  of  this  district — ^was  sport- 
ing a  tandem  about  the  square,  and  had  really  started 
several  times  to  go  home,  but  could  not  get  courage, 
poor  man !     I  do  not  wonder.     At  home  he  could  not 


-iVV 


84 


NIAGARA. 


exhibit  eithoi  1  ^  tandem  or  himself;  how,  then,  could  he 
part  with  the  atimiration  of  the  square  1  All  we  o  en- 
gaged ;  but  they  seemed  poorly  engaged.  One  o«'  the 
finest  lakes  in  the  world  lay  under  their  eye  in  the  last 
lights  of  evening — no  one  saw  it !  The  bright  and  love- 
ly stars  were  walking  in  silence  over  their  heads,  through 
the  paths  of  heaven — no  one  admired  them !  But  I  must 
check  myself,  The  day  had  not  disposed  me  to  noise 
and  bustle,  and  it  was  Saturday  evening — a  period  usu- 
ally given  to  serious  objects  and  absent  friends ;  and  I 
was  in  danger  of  being  severe  on  this  work-a-day  world 
— so  full  of  itself,  and  so  much  without  God  ! 

From  Burlington  we  passed  into  the  Canadas.  As  the 
excursion  into  this  country  will  be  separately  noticed,  I 
shall  pass  forward  to  Niagara,  the  point  at  which  we 
again  entered  the  American  territories. 


LETTER  IX. 

My  jjKAtt  Friend, 
Now  for  I  he  Falls.  The  town  of  Niagara  has  no  con- 
nexion with  the  Falls  of  Niagara ;  they  are  fifteen  miles 
apart.  We  left  the  town,  therefore,  on  the  morning  of 
the  24th,  deeming  the  time  lost  which  kept  us  from  the 
great  object  of  pursuit.  The  ride  is  very  pleasant,  by  the 
side  of  the  river,  which  is  here  narrow  and  deep,  com- 
pressed by  hills  on  both  sides,  and  finely  fringed  by 
forest  trees.  The  land  is  good  in  this  vicinity,  and  some 
of  it  in  good  keeping ;  the  roadside  is  verdant,  and  is 
made  fragrant  and  cheerful  by  an  abundance  of  sweet- 
brier,  which  is  growing  wild,  and  was  then  in  bloom. 
We  passed  through  Queenstown,  t}<e  heights  of  which  are 
made  memorable  and  interesting  jy  the  gallant  defence 
and  lamented  fall  of  General  Br  jck,  in  the  last  unhappy 
war.     There  is  a  monument  erecting  to  his  memory.     It 


is  alout  ] 
the  count 
were  eaj 
great  woi 

At  len^ 
and  tietthi 
heard  the 
own,  and 
trembling 
tensely  d( 
»tand  my 
some  glar 
aside,  lesl 
partly  ca\] 
the  first  \ 
arose  fron 
t^etermine 
In  fulfiUir 
8ev<;ing  an 
hastened  i 
tually  on  i 

Let  an^ 
talk  of 
should,  th 
Niagara  v 

From 
There  I  ( 
know  not 
of  any  we 
hung  aboi 
the  wind 
spray  upo 
of  cloak 
wholly  fo 
However, 
phere,  I 
cupy  my 
when  nat 
yet  the  e; 


THE   FALLS. 


85 


is  alout  ISO  feet  high,  and  must  supply  a  fine  view  of 
the  country.  But  onward  was  our  word  now ;  and  we 
wern  eagerly  looking  out  for  some  indications  of  the 
great  wonder  which  we  were  so  rapidly  approaching. 

At  length  we  saw  the  spray  rising  through  the  trees, 
and  nettling  like  a  white  cloud  over  them  ;  and  then  we 
heari  the  voice  of  the  mighty  waters — a  voice  all  its 
own,  and  worthy  of  itself.  Have  you  never  <elt  a 
trembling  backwardness  to  look  on  what  yon  '  in- 

tensely desired  to  see  1     If  not,  you  will  h  ' 
»tand  my  feeling.     While  all  were  now  sea;  «r 

some  glance  of  the  object  itself,  I  was  dispose^  ii- 

aside,  lest  it  should  surprise  me.  This,  no  douui,  was 
partly  caused  by  the  remark  1  had  so  often  heard,  that 
the  first  view  disappoints  you.  I  concluded,  that  this 
arose  from  the  first  view  not  being  a  fair  one,  and  I  was 
c^etermined  to  do  justice  to  the  object  of  my  reverence. 
In  fulfilling  this  purpose,  I  reached  the  Pavilion  without 
sev<;ing  any  thing ;  disposed  cf  m^  affairs  there,  and 
hastened  down  towards  the  Falls  ;  and  found  myself  ac- 
tually on  the  Table  Rock  to  receive  my  first  impressions. 

Let  any  one  pursue  the  same  course,  and  he  will  not 
talk  of  first  impressions  disappointing  him;  or  if  he 
should,  then  he  ought  to  go  twenty  miles  another  way. 
Niagara  was  not  nade  for  him. 

From  the  Table  Rock  I  descended  to  the  base. 
There  I  clambered  out  on  the  broken  rocks,  and  sat — I 
know  not  how  long.  The  day  was  the  least  favourable 
of  any  we  had.  The  atmosphere  was  heavy  ;  the  foam 
hung  about  the  object  and  concealed  one  half  of  It ;  and 
the  wind  blew  from  the  opposite  aide,  and  brought  the 
spray  upon  you,  so  as  to  wet  you  exceedingly.  The  use 
of  cloak  and  umbrella  were  troublesome  ;  you  could  not 
wholly  forget  your  person,  and  think  only  of  one  thing. 
However,  had  I  not  seen  it  in  this  state  of  the  atmos- 
phere, I  should  have  wanted  some  views  which  now  oc- 
cupy my  imagination.  The  whole  is  exceedingly  solemn 
when  nature  frowns  ;  ind  when  much  is  hidden,  while 
yet  the  eye  has  not  marked  the  outline,  there  is  a  myste- 

8 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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23  WBT  MAIN  STMIT 

WMSTIR,N.Y.  MSM 

(71«)t73*4S03 


I 


88 


THE   PALLS. 


|i::| 


m 


riousness  spread  over  the  object  which  suits  your  con- 
ception of  its  greatness,  and  in  which  the  imagination 
loves  to  luxuriate.  I  can  scarcely  define  to  you  my  im- 
pressions on  this  first  day  ;  1  can  scarcely  define  them 
to  myself.  I  was  certainly  not  disappointed ;  but  I  was 
confounded.  I  felt  as  though  I  had  received  a  shock, 
and  required  time  to  right  myself  again. 

I  returned  to  the  Pavilion,  which  is  about  half  a  mile 
from  the  Falls,  and  retired  to  my  chamber,  which  over- 
looked them.  I  mused  on  what  I  had  seen,  and  was 
still  confounded.  I  sought  rest  that  I  might  be  fresh  for 
the  morrow  ;  but  rest  did  not  come  so  freely.  The  con- 
tinuous deep  sounds  of  the  waters  would  have  sung  me 
to  sleep,  but  the  tremour  of  the  house  and  ground,  which 
shook  the  windows  like  those  of  a  stagecoach,  kept  me 
wakeful ;  and  when  I  fell  into  slumbers,  the  flitting 
dreams  of  what  I  had  seen,  would  trouble  and  break 
them. 

Notwithstanding  all  disturbances,  I  rose  on  the  next 
morning  in  good  spirits.  The  day  was  all  that  could  be 
wished.  The  sun  shining,  the  heavens  transparent,  gar- 
nished with  bright  and  peaceful  clouds.  The  wind,  too, 
was  gentle  and  refreshing ;  and  had  shifted  to  our  side, 
so  as  to  promise  the  nearest  points  of  sight  without  the 
discomfort  of  getting  wet  through. 

I  now  looked  fairly  on  the  scene  as  it  presented  itself 
at  my  window,  in  the  fair  lights  of  the  morning.  It  is 
composed  rather  of  the  accompaniments  of  the  fall  than 
of  the  fall  itself.  You  look  up  the  river  full  ten  miles, 
and  it  runs  in  this  part  from  two  to  three  miles  in 
breadth.  Here  it  has  formed,  in  its  passage,  beautiful 
little  bays  ;  and  there  it  has  worked  through  the  slips  of 
mainland,  putting  out  the  fragments  as  so  many  islets  to 
decorate  its  surface ;  while,  on  either  hand,  it  is  bounded 
by  the  original  forests  of  pine.  At  the  upper  extremity 
you  see  the  blue  waters  calmly  resting  under  the  more 
cerulean  heavens  ;  while  nearer  to  you  it  becomes  agita- 
ted, Uke  a  strong  man  preparing  to  run  a  race.  It  swells, 
and  foams,  and  recoils,  as  though  it  were  committed  to  some 


THE    FALLS. 


87 


desperate  issue ;  and  then  suddenly  contTacts  its  di- 
mensions, as  if  to  gather  up  all  its  power  for  the  mighty 
leap  it  is  about  to  make.  Tills  is  all  you  see  here  ;  and 
it  is  enough. 

I  left  the  hotel,  and  went  down  to  the  Table  Rock. 
This  is  usually  deemed  the  great  point  of  sight ;  and  for 
an  upper  view  it  undoubtedly  is.  It  ia  composed  of 
several  ledges  of  rock,  having  different  advantages,  and 
projecting  as  far  over  the  gulf  below  as  they  can  to  be 
safe.  But  how  shall  I  describe  the  objects  before  me  ? 
The  mysterious  veil  which  lay  heavily  yesterday  on  a 
large  part  of  it,  was  now  removed ;  and  the  outline  of  the 
picture  was  mostly  seen.  An  ordinary  picture  would 
have  suffered  by  this ;  but  here  the  real  dimensions  are  so 
vast,  and  so  far  beyond  what  the  eye  has  measured,  that 
to  see  them  is  not  to  fetter,  but  to. assist  the  imagination. 
This  fall,  which  is  called  the  Horseshoe  Fall,  is  upwards 
of  2,000  feet  in  extent,  and  makes  a  leap,  on  an  average, 
of  about  200  feet.  Now  just  enlarge  your  conceptions 
to  these  surprising  dimensions,  and  suppose  yourself  to 
be  recumbent  on  the,projecting  rock  which  I  have  named, 
as  near  the  verge  as  you  dare,  and  I  will  assist  you  to 
look  at  the  objects  as  they  present  themselves. 

You  see  not  now  above  the  cataract  the  bed  of  the 
river ;  but  you  still  see  the  foaming  heads  of  the  rapids, 
like  waves  of  the  ocean,  hurrying  to  the  precipice ;  and 
over  them  the  light  clouds  which  float  on  the  horizon. 
Then  comes  the  chute  itself.  It  is  not  in  the  form  of  the 
horseshoe ;  it  is  not  composed  of  either  circular  or 
straight  lines  ;  but  it  partakes  of  both  ;  and  throughout  it 
is  marked  by  projections  and  indentations,  which  give  an 
amazing  variety  of  form  and  aspect.  With  all  this  variety 
it  is  one.  It  has  all  the  power  which  is  derived  from 
unity,  and  none  of  the  stiffness  which  belongs  to  uni- 
formity. There  it  falls  in  one  dense  awful  mass  of  green 
waters,  unbroken  and  resistless ;  here  it  is  broken  into 
drops,  and  falls  like  a  sea  of  diamonds  sparkling  in  the 
sun.  Now  it  shoots  forth  like  rockets  in  endless  suc- 
cession ;  and  now  it  is  so  light  and  foaming  that  it  dan- 


•(I 


)  i 


I  1 


Mi 


88 


THE    PALLS. 


ces  in  the  sun  as  it  goes,  and  before  it  has  reached  the 
pool,  it  is  driven  up  again  by  the  ascending  currents  of 
air.  Then  there  is  the  deep  expanding  pool  below. 
Where  the  waters  pitch,  all  is  agitation  and  foam,  so  that 
the  foot  of  the  fall  is  never  seen;  and  beyond  it  and 
away,  the  waters  spread  themselves  out  like  a  rippling 
sea  of  liquid  alabaster.  This  last  feature  is  perfectly 
unique,  and  you  would  think  nothing  could  add  to  its  ex- 
quisite loveliness  ;  but  there  lies  on  it,  as  if  they  were 
made  for  each  other,  "  heaven's  own  bow."  0  never  had 
it,  in  heaven  itself,  so  fair  a  resting-place ! 

Besides,  by  reason  of  the  different  degrees  of  rarity 
in  the  waters  and  the  atmosphere,  the  sun  is  pervading 
the  whole  scene  with  unwonted  lights  and  hues.  And 
the  foam  which  is  flying  off  in  all  directions,  is  insensibly 
condensed,  and  forms  a  pillar  of  cloud,  which  moves 
over  the  scene,  as  it  once  did  over  the  tents  of  Israel, 
and  apparently  by  the  same  bidding,  giving  amazing  va- 
riety, and  sublimity,  and  unearthliness  to  the  picture. 
Then  there  is  sound  as  well  as  sight ;  but  what  sound ! 
It  is  not  like  the  sea ;  nor  like  the  thunder ;  nor  like  any 
thing  I  have  heard.  There  is  no  roar«  no  rattle ;  nothing 
sharp  or  angry  in  its  tones  ;  it  is  deep,  awful,  one ! 

Well,  as  soon  as  I  could  disengage  myself  from  this 
spot,  I  descended  to  the  bed  of  the  fall.  I  am  never  sat- 
isfied with  any  fall  till  I  have  availed  myself  of  the  very 
lowest  standing  it  supplies ;  it  is  there  usr  that  you 
become  susceptible  of  its  utmost  power.  .rambled, 

therefore,  over  th6  dislocated  rocks,  and  put  myself  as 
near  as  possible  to  the  object  which  I  wished  to  absorb 
me.     I  was  not  disappointed. 

There  were  now  fewer  objects  in  the  picture ;  but  what 
you  saw  had  greater  prominence  and  power  over  you. 
Every  thing  ordinary — foliage,  trees,  hills— was  shut 
out ;  the  smaller  attributes  of  the  fall  were  also  excluded ; 
and  I  was  left  alone  with  its  own  greatness.  At  my 
feet  the  waters  were  creaming,  swelling,  and  dashing 
away,  as  if  in  terror,  from  the  scene  of  conflict,  at  the 
rate  of  twenty  miles  an  hour.    Above  and  overhanging 


me  was 
dark  and 
immedia 
majesty- 
eye   cou 
with  its 
fall  direc 
weight 
around 
cloud  of 
to  spread 
on  the  fi 
beautiful 
an  entire 
But  it  is 
the  bliss 
When 
away  tov 
side.     Tl 
and  unifc 
proachin§ 
not  subdi 
you  with 
and  beau 
dining  to 
inclining 
Fall  on  tl 
regarded 
200  feet 
spreads  i 
of  some 
I  foun 
this  f?.U, 
can  Stan 
shoot  ot 
nerve,  it 
and  beai 
behind  t 
face,  till 


I 


THE   PALLS 


89 


me  was  the  Table  Rock,  with  its  majestic  form,  and 
dark  and  hvid  colours,  threatening  to  crush  one.  While 
immediately  before  me  was  spread  in  all  its  height  and 
majesty — not  in  parts,  but  as  a  whole,  beyond  what  the 
eye  could  embrace — the  unspeakable  cataract  itself ; 
with  its  head  now  touching  the  horizon,  and  seeming  to 
fall  direct  from  heaven,  and  rushing  to  the  earth  with  a 
weight  and  voice  which  made  the  rocks  beneath  and 
around  me  fearfully  to  tremble.  Over  this  scene  the 
cloud  of  foam  mysteriously  moved,  rising  upward,  so  as 
to  spread  itself  partly  on  the  face  of  the  fall,  and  partly 
on  the  face  of  the  sky ;  while  over  all  were  seen  the 
beautiful  and  soft  colours  of  the  rainbow,  forming  almost 
an  entire  circle,  and  crowning  it  with  celestial  glory. 
But  it  is  vain.  The  power,  the  sublimity,  the  beauty, 
the  bliss  of  that  spot,  of  that  hour — it  cannot  be  told. 

When  fairly  exhausted  by  intensity  of  feeling,  I  strolled 
away  towards  the  ferry,  to  pass  over  to  the  American 
side.  The  Falls  here,  from  the  distance,  have  a  plain 
and  uniform  aspect ;  but  this  wholly  disappears  on  ap- 
proaching them.  They  are  exceedingly  fine.  They  do 
not  subdue  you  as  on  the  Canadian  side  ;  but  they  fill 
you  with  a  solemn  and  delightful  sense  of  their  grandeur 
and  beauty.  The  character  ot  the  one  is  beautiful,  in- 
clining to  the  sublime ;  and  that  of  the  other,  the  sublime, 
inclining  to  the  beautiful.  There  is  a  single  slip  of  the 
Fall  on  this  side,  which,  in  any  other  situation,  would  be 
regarded  as  a  most  noble  cataract.  It  falls  upwards  of 
200  feet ;  it  is  full  20  feet  wide  at  the  point  of  fall,  and 
spreads  itself  like  a  fan  in  falling,  so  as  to  strike  on  a  line 
of  some  50  or  60  feet.     It  has  great  power  and  beauty. 

I  found  that  there  was  a  small  ledge  of  rock  behind 
this  fp.U,  and  ventured  on  it  to  about  the  centre.  You 
can  stand  here  without  getting  at  all  wet ;  the  waters 
shoot  out  several  feet  before  you;  and,  if  you  have 
nerve,  it  is  entirely  safe.  I  need  not  say  that  the  novelty 
and  beauty  of  the  situation  amply  reward  you.  You  are 
behind  the  sheet  of  water,  and  the  sun  is  shining  on  its 
face,  illuminating  the  whole  body  with  a  variety  propor- 

8* 


I  1 


111 


tf  i 


90 


THS   PALLS. 


Hi 


tioncd  to  its  density.  Here,  before  you,  the  heavy  waters 
fall  in  unbroken  columns  of  bright  green.  There,  the*^ 
flow  down  like  a  shower  of  massy  crystals,  radiant  with 
light,  and  emitting  as  they  fall  all  the  prismatic  colours ; 
while  there,  again,  they  are  so  broken  and  divided,  as  to 
resemble  a  shower  of  gems  sparkUng  in  light,  and  shoot- 
ing across  the  blue  heavens. 

I  passed  by  what  is  called  Goat  Island  to  the  extremity 
of  the  Horseshoe  Fall  on  this  side.  There  is  carried 
out  over  the  head  of  this  fall  a  limb  of  timber,  with  a 
hand-rail  to  it.  It  projects  some  13  feet  over  the  abyss, 
and  is  meant  to  supply  the  place  of  the  Table  Rock  on 
the  other  side.  It  does  so  in  a  great  measure ;  and  as, 
while  it  is  quite  as  safe,  it  gives  you  far  less  sense  of 
safety,  it  disposes  you  the  more  to  sympathize  with  ob- 
jects of  terror.  Indeed,  when  you  fairly  get  to  the  ex- 
tremity, and  find  yourself  standing  out  in  this  world  of 
waters  on  a  slip  of  wood  only  large  enough  for  your  feet 
to  rest  on,  and  which  is  quivering  beneath  you ;  when  the 
waters  are  rushing  down  under  you ;  when  the  spray  is 
flying  over  you ;  and  when  the  eye  seeks  to  fathom  the 
unfathomable  and  boisterous  gulf  below ;  you  have,  per- 
haps, as  much  of  the  terrible  as  will  consist  with  gratifi- 
cation. Very  many  of  the  visiters  never  think  of  en- 
countering this  I  oint  of  view :  those  who  do  and  have  a 
taste  for  it  will  never  forget  it.  It  is  among  the  finest  of 
the  fine. 

In  returning,  I  wandered  round  the  little  island.  It  is 
covered  with  forest-trees  of  a  fine  growth,  and  is  full  of 
picturesque  beauty.  Days  might  be  spent  here  in  happy 
and  deep  seclusion ;  protected  firom  the  burning  sun;  re- 
galed by  lovely  scenes  of  nature,  and  the .  music  of  the 
sweetest  waters ;  and  in  fellowship,  at  will,  with  the 
mighty  Falls. 

The  next  morning  was  the  last;  and  it  was  given 
wholly  to  the  Great  Fall.    I  prepared,  in  the  first  instance, 
to  go  benind  it.     This  is  the  chief  adventure ;  and  is  by 
most  writers  described  as  dangerous.     There  is  no  dan 
ger  if  the  overhanging  rocks  keep  their  places,  and  if  you 


/! 


g 


have  mode 
dress  proi; 
as  damp 
quickly  dii 
the  scenes 
the  better, 
and  there 
"Take  ca 
and  I  had 
further  ad^ 
give  me  yo 
est  part." 
on  Termin 
the  foot  of 
As  the 
standing, 
eyes.     B\: 
and  water: 
my  sides 
of  the  fall 
threaten  nJ 
roof  of  the 
were  at  thi 
ful  constn 
the  one  sp 
the  other  c 
the  footing 
entered  ab 
of  thinner 
glowing  p 
light  and  1: 
sity  of  the 
give  only 
gloom,  th 
commotio] 
lar  and  a^ 
the  creati( 
real  horn 
knew. 


THS   FALLS. 


91 


ivy  waters 
here,  the'^ 
diant  with 
c  colours; 
ded,  as  to 
ind  shoot- 
extremity 
is  carried 
Br,  with  a 
the  abyss, 
Rock  on 
;  and  as, 
sense  of 
)  with  ob- 
to  the  ex* 
world  of 
your  feet 
when  the 
e  spray  is 
athom  the 
lave,  Per- 
th gratifi- 
ik  of  en- 
nd  have  a 
3  finest  of 

id.  It  is 
is  full  of 
in  happy 
sun;  re- 
»ic  of  the 
with  the 

'as  given 
instance, 
and  is  by 
3  no  dan 
nd  if  you 


I 


have  moderate  self-possession.  I  made  use  of  the  oil-cloth 
dress  provided  by  the  guide,  and  was  quarrelling  with  it 
as  damp  and  uncomfortable;  but  that  grievance  was 
quickly  disposed  of.  I  had  not  made  my  entrance  behind 
the  scenes  before  I  was  drenched,  and  the  less  I  had  on 
the  better.  However,  it  was  an  admirable  shower-bath ; 
and  there  was  an  end  to  the  question  of  wet  or  dry. 
"  Take  care  of  your  breath,"  was  the  cry  of  the  guide ; 
and  I  had  need,  for  it  was  almost  gone.  On  making  a 
further  advance,  I  recovered  it,  and  felt  relieved.  "Now 
give  me  your  hand,"  said  the  guide ;  "  this  is  the  narrow- 
est part."  Onward  I  went,  till  he  assured  me  that  I  was 
on  Termination  Rock ;  the  extreme  point  accessible  to 
the  foot  of  man. 

As  the  labour  of  the  foot  was  over,  and  there  was  good 
standing,  I  determined  on  making  the  best  use  of  my 
eyes.  But  this  it  was  not  so  easy  to  do.  The  spray 
and  waters  were  driving  in  my  face,  and  coursing  down 
my  sides  most  strangely :  a  strong  wind  from  the  foot 
of  the  fall  was  driving  in  the  opposite  direction,  so  as  to 
threaten  not  to  blow  me  down,  but  to  blow  mt  up  to  the 
roof  of  the  vault.  However,  I  soon  ascertained  that  we 
were  at  the  extremity  of  a  cavern  of  large  and  wonder- 
ful construction.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a  pointed  arch ; 
the  one  span  composed  of  rolling  and  dense  water,  and 
the  other  of  livid  black  rocks.  It  was  some  50  feet  from 
the  footing  of  the  rock  to  that  of  the  water,  and  I  had 
entered  about  70  feet.  On  the  entrance,  which  is  mostly 
of  thinner  waters,  the  sun  played  cheerfully,  and  with 
glowing  power ;  but  within  it  was  contrasted  by  the  dim 
light  and  heavy  obscurity  which  are  generated  by  the  den- 
sity of  the  fall,  to  which  the  whole  power  of  the  sun  can 
give  only  a  semi-transpaxenoy.  "What  with  this  visible 
gloom,  the  stunning  nois*  of  the  fall,  and  the  endless 
commotion  of  wind  and  Waters,  the  effect  is  most  singu- 
lar and  awful.  It  ia^  scene  that  would  harmonize  with 
the  creations  of  Fusc^i ;  and  it  has,  I  will  venture  to  say, 
real  horrors  beyond  what  the  cave  of  old  .^olus  ever 
knew. 


'  I 


'  I 


'%^'~ 


98 


THE   FALLS. 


•r)  1 


On  returning  to  my  dressing-room,  I  received  a  certifi- 
cate from  the  guide  that  I  had  really  been  to  Termination 
Rock ;  a  ridiculous  device  to  give  importance  to  his  vo- 
cation, but  in  the  success  of  which  he  does  not  miscal- 
culate on  human  nature.  The  rest  of  the  morning  was 
employed  in  taking  peeps  at  the  Falls  from  favourite 
points  of  observation  ;  but  chiefly  on  the  Table  Rock,  and 
at  the  foot  of  the  Great  Fall.  The  day  was  exceedingly 
fine,  and  every  feature  of  the  amazing  scene  vas  lighted 
up  with  all  its  beauty  ^  and  I  now  communed  with  it  as 
one  would  with  a  friend  who  has  already  afforded  you 
rich  enjoyment  in  his  society.  I  was  delighted — was 
fascinated.  Every  thing,  apart  or  together,  seemed  to 
have  acquired  greater  power  and  expression.  I  studied  all 
the  parts ;  they  were  exquisite,  lovely,  noble ;  I  put  them 
all  together,  and  it  overwhelmed  me,  subdued  me,  fixed 
me  to  the  spot.  Long  I  stayed  ;  but  all  time  was  short. 
I  went ;  and  returned ;  and  knew  not  how  to  go. 

I  have  been  thus  particular  in  my  account  ci  these 
Falls,  because  the  world  knows  nothing  like  them ;  and 
because  I  wished  you  to  participate  in  my  pleasures.  I 
have  seen  many  falls,  and  with  unspeakable  delight ;  but 
nothing  to  be  named  with  this.  It  would  in  parts  present 
the  image  of  them  all ;  but  all  united  would  not  supply  a 
just  idea  of  it.  It  is  better  to  see  it  than  a  thousand  ordi- 
nary sights ;  they  may  revive  sleeping  emotions,  and  so 
bring  delight ;  but  this  creates  new  emotion,  and  raises 
the  mind  a  step  higher  in  its  conceptions  of  the  power 
and  eternity  of  Him  whom  "  to  know  is  life  eternal." 
The  day  on  which  it  is  seen  should  be  memorable  in  the 
life  of  any  man. 

I  am  sorry,  in  closing,  that  I  cannot  say  much  for  the 
taste  either  of  the  visiters  or  inhabitants  of  this  spot. 
The  visiters  seemed  to  regard  the  Falls  rather  as  an  ob- 
ject of  curiosity  than  otherwise ;  and  when  they  had  satis- 
fied their  curiosity  (wliich  in  most  cases  was  very  quickly 
done),  and  could  report  that  they  had  seen  them,  the  duty 
was  discharged.  Such  persons  drove  in  on  the  morning, 
explored  for  a  couple  of  hours,  dinedf  and  hunied  away. 


Or,  if  the 
they  mad 
album  he 
contrast  t 
Withtl 
the  Amer 
called  it  1 
agara!  A 
and  turn  i 
— and  su 
seeking  f 
of  erectin 
close  on  t 
ing  a  mill 
things.  ' 
vent  them 
does  not 
should  be 
nothing  si 
the  tastes, 


2 


Mt 

Hatinc 
must  mon 
on  the 
Niagara, 
Black  Ro 
This  boat 
boat;  bu 
as  more  < 
were  dri^ 
by  four 
large  end 


I  i 


BUFFALO. 


93 


a  certifi* 
rmination 
0  his  vo- 
t  miscal- 
ning  was 
favourite 
lock,  and 
jeedingly 
18  lighted 
with  it  as 
rded  you 
ted — was 
eemed  to 
itudied  all 
put  them 
me,  fixed 
^as  short. 


cf  these 
lem;  and 
sures.  I 
light;  but 
ts  present 
;  supply  a 
sand  ordi- 
8,  and  so 
nd  raises 
he  power 

eternal." 
ble  in  the 

3h  for  the 
this  spot, 
as  an  ob- 
had  satis- 
fy quickly 
,  the  duty 
I  morning, 
ied  away. 


Or,  if  they  stayed,  they  had  had  enough  of  Niagara,  and 
they  made  an  excursion  to  see  the  burning  springs.  The 
album  here,  too,  is  full  of  miserable  trash ;  it  is  a  sad 
contrast  to  the  album  at  Chamouni. 

With  the  residents  I  am  half  disposed  to  be  angry.  On 
the  American  side  they  have  got  up  a  shabby  town,  and 
called  it  Manchester.  Manchester  and  the  Falls  of  Ni- 
agara !  A  proposition  has  been  made  to  buy  Goat  Island, 
and  turn  it  into  a  botanical  garden,  to  improve  the  scenery 
— and  such  scenery !  On  the  Canadian  side,  a  money- 
seeking  party  have  bought  up  400  acres,  with  the  hope 
of  erecting  "  llie  City  of  the  Falls ;"  and  still  worse, 
close  on  the  Table  Rock,  some  party  was  busy  in  erect- 
ing a  mill-dam !  One  has  hardly  patience  to  record  these 
things.  The  universal  voice  ought  to  interfere,  and  pre- 
vent them.  Niagara  does  not  belong  to  them ;  Niagara 
does  not  belong  to  Canada  or  America.  Such  spots 
should  be  deemed  the  property  of  civilized  mankind ;  and 
nothing  should  be  allowed  to  weaken  their  efficacy  on 
the  tastes,  the  morals,  and  the  enjoyments  of  all  men. 


/• 


{ I.  ( . 


Ti^'x-**.  £-t  «i 


LETTER  X. 

Mt  dkar  Friend, 
Having  paused  so  long  with  you  at  the  Falls,  we 
must  move  forward  with  the  greater  celerity.  We  left 
on  the  S6th  for  Buffalo.  The  ride  is  still  along  the 
Nii^ara,  and  is  very  pleasing.  On  coming  opposite  the 
Black  Rock,  we  had  to  cross  the  river  by  the  ferry-boat. 
This  boat  was  constructed  on  the  principle  of  the  steam- 
boat ;  but  the  moving  power  was  obtained  from  horses, 
as  more  economical  on  a  small  scale.  The  water-wheels 
were  driven  by  a  horizontal  wheel,  which  was  impelled 
by  four  horses.  It  was  provided  with  an  upward  face 
large  enough  for  the  horses  to  stand  on ;  they  were  fa»- 


r'   ! 


'\\ 


i  ! 


«  : 


■*» 


y\ 


94 


BUFFALO. 


tened  by  traces  to  a  fixed  bar,  so  that  when  thoy  were 
in  motion,  instead  of  advancing,  they  thrust  the  wheel 
backward. 

Buffalo  is  a  beautiful  town,  situated  on  rising  ground, 
at  the  junction  of  the  river  and  Lake  Erie ;  and  it  is 
thriving  almost  beyond  example.  In  the  year  1814,  it 
was  entirely  destroyed  by  the  British  forces ;  so  entirely 
that  it  is  said  only  one  house  was  left  standing  ;  and  this 
was  saved  by  a  remarkable  adventure  on  the  part  of  an 
old  woman,  who  is  still  living.  Seeing  every  thing  in 
ruin  and  in  flames  around  her,  and  made  desperate  by 
the  thought  of  her  dwelling  meeting  the  common  fate, 
she  resolved  to  enter  the  camp  of  the  adversary,  and 
plead  her  cause.  In  fulfilling  this  determination,  she 
supplied  herself  with  a  broomstick,  tied  a  white  hand- 
kerchief to  it,  made  her  way  to  the  sentinels,  and  de- 
manded an  audience  of  the  commanding  officer.  She 
was  not  in  a  temper  to  submit  readily  to  denial ;  and  at 
length  she  succeeded.  She  represented  to  him,  with  the 
feeling  and  tears  which  the  occasion  awakened,  that  she 
was  a  poor  widow  ;  that  she  had  many  fatherless  chil- 
dren ;  that  the  house  was  all  that  the  father  had  left  to 
them  ;  that  it  had  hitherto  sustained  them  ;  but  that  if  it 
were  destroyed,  they  were  all  utterly  ruined.  The  house 
was  spared  at  the  prayer  of  the  importunate  widow. 

On  the  close  of  the  war,  the  Congress  voted  80,000 
dollars  to  atone  for  the  losses  suffered.  This  gave,  in 
union  with  the  indignation  natural  to  the  sufferers,  great 
life  to  the  efforts  for  restoring  the  town ;  and  it  quickly 
rose,  like  another  phenix,  from  the  flames.  Advancing 
commerce,  however,  has  done  more  for  it  than  any  other 
cause.  In  1835  it  had  only  a  population  of  3,300 ;  now 
it  amounts  to  13,000 !  The  Eagle  Hotel,  at  which  we 
stayed  for  the  night,  is  excellent.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Eaton, 
with  whom  we  had  met  at  the  public  meetings,  showed 
us  kind  attentions. 

The  morning  of  the  ensuing  day  we  left  by  the  steam- 
boat. We  had  no  sooner  got  on  board  than  we  found 
that  there  was  a  strong  opposition  between  this  and 


LAKE   ERIE. 


95 


another  boat.  Our  boat  actually  stayed  an  hour  and  a 
half  after  time,  to  get  the  other  out,  that  it  might  race  with 
it.  Some  of  us  remonstrated ;  but  the  general  impress 
sion  was  that  it  would  be  futile.  At  last  our  vessel  was 
compelled  to  start  first ;  but  still  not  to  abandon  its  pur- 
pose. It  moved  quietly  down  the  creek,  and  beyond  the 
pier,  with  the  other  boat  in  its  rear ;  it  then  described  a 
fine  circle  in  the  water,  and  thus  brought  itself  fairly 
alongside  of  its  antagonist,  and  thus  gave  it  challenge 
on  equal  terms.  Great  and  hazardous  effort  was  now 
made  on  each  side,  the  advantage  being  on  ours.  The 
other  boat,  after  running  us  close,  though  still  falling 
behind,  either  feigned  to  have  or  had  an  accident  with 
her  machinery,  and  suddenly  stopped  in  the  waters.  We 
had  no  reason  to  think  the  occurrnnce  serious  to  the 
passengers ;  and  were  not  sorry  to  pursue  our  path  on 
the  waters  unattended  by  this  troublesome  spirit  of 
rivalry.  My  wonder  was  that  the  passengers,  including 
judges  and  governors,  should  have  been  such  mute 
witnesses  of  these  liberties  in  pubUc  conveyances. 

We  were  now  advanced  some  thirty  miles  on  the 
bosom  of  Lake  Erie.  On  the  one  side  land  was  not 
visible ;  on  the  other  it  was  from  two  to  four  miles  dis- 
tant. The  dimensions  of  these  larger  lakes  are  often 
quoted  by  travellers  as  pledges  sufficient  of  their  interest 
and  grandeur ;  but,  as  you  know,  these  properties  are 
often  in  the  inverse  proportion  to  the  dimensions.  These 
waters,  for  instance,  are  too  vasi  to  supply  you  with  the 
picturesque,  and  they  are  too  small  to  supply  you  with 
the  grandeur  of  the  ocean.  They  are  invaluable,  how- 
ever, as  the  highways  of  commerce ;  or  rather,  they 
have  become  so  since  the  use  of  steam  as  a  motive 
power.  The  average  voyage  to  Detroit  used  to  be  three 
weeks ;  it  is  now  four  days.  Six  years  ago  there  were 
only  five  steamboats  on  this  lake ;  there  are  now  thirty- 
five.  In  the  last  year,  1833,  100,000  persons  were 
transported  across  these  waters ;  and,  what  is  remarka- 
ble, two  thirds  of  that  number  were  natives. 

The  boat  which  was  conveying  us,  is  one  of  the  best 


I ' 


.  I  , 


-  *■  '',»■ 


I , 


96 


DUNKIRK. 


V.-*^'- 


';'i 


!i 


I  have  leen.  Provitions,  accommodations,  and  attend- 
ance, all  excellent.  Mr.  Pratt,  a  proprietor,  was  on 
board.  He  was  very  obliging.  He  allowed  no  spirits 
to  be  on  the  table  ;  and  requested  me  to  implore  a  bles- 
sing  on  our  repast.  This  was  the  first  occasion  in  which 
I  had  known  it  done  at  a  public  meal.  Our  compaL,  viras 
very  miscellaneous,  but,  on  the  whole,  agreeable.  vVe 
had,  particularly,  some  interesting  conversations  with 
Judge  Wilkinson  on  important  subjects,  and  the  Western 
country.  There  were  some  tradesmen  on  board,  who, 
on  reaching  home,  would  have  made  a  journey  of  from 
3,000  to  3,000  miles  to  go  to  market. 

Alter  a  run  of  about  forty  miles,  we  came  to  Dunkirk, 
a  small  town  on  the  left  bank,  where  we  were  to  deposite 
passengers  and  take  in  wood.  Mr.  Stillman,  a  worthy 
and  discreet  minister  of  the  Baptist  communion,  who  had 
been  lately  settled  here,  came  on  board.  I  embraced 
the  passing  opportunity  to  learn  something  of  the  reli- 
gious state  of  the  place.  It  was  interesting.  The  popu- 
lation was  about  600.  There  were  three  places  of 
worship ;  Presbyterian,  Methodist,  and  Baptist.  When 
the  settlement  was  much  smaller,  and  before  they  could 
get  churches  erected,  it  was  found  that  the  people's 
morals  were  relaxing,  and  that  many  who  came  to  settle 
refused  to  do  so.  Those,  therefore,  who  had  a  worldly 
interest  in  the  place,  united  with  the  religious  in  building 
churches.  In  this  way,  six  persons  of  worldly  habits 
and  views  had  agreed  at  first  to  sustain  him.  They  had, 
in  the  last  winter,  which  was  a  season  of  revival,  been 
converted,  and  were  at  this  time  building  him  a  church. 
Thus  it  is  that  "  the  earth"  is  made  to  "  help  the  woman," 
and  in  doing  so  becomes  less  earthly. 

In  the  evening  of  the  day  we  reached  Erie ;  the  place 
at  which,  by  previous  agreement,  Mr.  Matheson  and 
myself  were  to  separate.  He  thought  this  the  best  op- 
portunity of  visiting  a  relative  in  Pennsylvania ;  and  as 
he  had  been  several  times  indisposed,  he  was  apprehen- 
sive of  a  more  trying  region.  Indeed,  the  reports  from 
the  West  had  been  discouraging ;  and,  under  the  circum- 


stances, ] 
might  hay 
was  fixed 
both,  but 
West  and 
the  expec 
Pittsburgh 

A  a  the 
younger  s 
reinarkabl 
burning  s; 
spot. 

In  the  I 
great  thori 
originally 
still  be  su 
the  lake,  I 
me  with  b 
The  remai 
conversati 
ing  to  his 
in  his  and 
red  in  the 

In  the 
Christians 
him  for  pi 
pray  with 
the  month 
round  to  ' 
the  churcl 
the  place 
much  imp: 
their  char 
und  very  j 
for  six  mo 
religious  (3 

The  se( 
an  agedw 
in  Israel.' 

Vol.  I. 


CLEAVCLANO. 


97 


stances,  I  did  not  feel  at  liberty  to  urge  him  when  it 
might  have  been  to  his  injury.  For  myself,  my  mind 
was  fixed.  It  was  indispensable  to  our  duty,  not  that 
boti),  but  that  one  of  us  should  see  as  much  of  the 
West  and  South  as  possible.  We  parted,  therefore,  in 
the  expectation,  if  life  were  preserved,  of  meeting  at 
Pittsburgh. 

As  the  night  shut  in,  we  passed  by  Portland,  a  still 
younger  settlement,  but  very  promising.  It  is  chiefly 
remarkable  for  a  lighthouse,  brilliantly  lighted  from  a 
burning  spring,  full  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  the 
spot. 

In  the  morning  we  paused  at  Cleaveland.  This  is  a 
great  thoroughfare  for  the  West :  and  it  was  here  that  I 
originally  intended  to  debark.  But  on  finding  I  should 
still  be  sure  of  conveyances  by  going  on  to  the  head  of 
the  lake,  I  determined  on  that  course,  as  it  would  supply 
me  with  better  opportunities  of  seeing  the  State  of  Ohio. 
The  remainder  of  the  passage  was  made  pleasant  by  the 
conversation  of  a  minister  of  that  State,  who  was  return- 
ing to  his  charge.  There  had  been  recently  two  revivals 
in  his  and  other  congregations.  Generally,  they  occur- 
red in  the  following  way. 

In  tho  first,  concern  came  over  the  minds  of  a  few 
Christians  for  a  better  state  of  religion.  They  met  with 
him  for  prayer ;  and  agreed  to  visit,  and  converse,  and 
pray  with  the  people.  While  thus  feeling  and  acting, 
the  monthly  conference  of  ministers  and  elders  came 
round  to  this  place.  Report  was  made  of  the  state  of 
the  churches  ;  and  the  awakened  state  of  the  people  at 
the  place  of  meeting  was  in  turn  reported.  All  were 
much  impressed.  The  preaching  and  prayers  received 
their  character  from  it.  The  effect  was  very  general 
und  very  good.  Many  became  truly  serious  then  ;  and 
for  six  months  afterward,  there  were  some  instances  of 
religious  decision  every  week. 

The  second  occasion  was  connected  with  the  death  of 
an  aged  woman,  a  member  of  the  church,  and  "  a  mother 
in  Israel."     She  had  seven  children:   they  were  now 
Vol.  I.— E  9 


,• ! 


I 


;  1 


'I ;  i 


08 


REVIVAL. 


*        I 


ii 


grown  up  and  settled  in  life;  but^  notwithstanding  all 
her  instructions  and  prayers,  they  had  become  exceetjt- 
ingly  worldly,  and  during  her  lifetime,  disregarded  seri- 
ous religion.     Her  death,  however,  did  what  her  life 
failed  to  do.    Her  eldest  daughter  was  much  affected  by 
the  event,  and  by  the  painful  reflections  it  brought  with 
it.     She  was  visited  and  conversed  with.     Her  husband 
came  in  at  the  time ;  and  the  conversation,  without  chang- 
ing its  character,  naturally  turned  to  him ;  and  the  season 
justified  a  pointed  address,  and  he  also  fell  under  the 
force  of  salutary  conviction.     Another  son,  who  was 
brought  from  New- York  to  the  funeral,  and  who  had 
been  conspicuous  in  the  infidel  club  of  that  city,  became 
fearfully  convicted  of  sin,  and  was  driven  to  temporary 
despair  ;  but  in  the  end,  he  confessed  his  sins,  and  pro- 
fessed Christ  with  great  earnestness  and  decision.     In 
such  a  rural  population,  these  things  would  not  be  done 
in  a  corner,  but  would  be  known  to  all.     They  had  a 
very  beneficial  effect  on  many ;  and  the  good  minister 
sought  a  careful  improvement  of  the  dispensation.     The 
effect  on  this  family  was,  that  five  of  the  seven  children 
were  united  to  the  church ;  and  the  effect  of  the  two 
seasons  of  revived  influence  was,  that  about  one  hundred 
persons  gave  good  "reason  of  the  hope  that  was  in  them.*' 
No  peculiarity  of  method  was  adopted  here  ;  and  the  anx- 
ious seat  was  not  used.    At  present,  I  merely  record  facts. 
In  the  middle  of  the  day  we  reached  Sandusky,  at 
which  place  I  separated  from  the  boat.     It  is  prettily 
situated  on  the  margin  of  a  small  bay ;  and  the  country 
lies  well  and  quietly  around  it.     It  has  not  more  than 
700  or  800  inhabitants ;  but  it  is  nevertheless  a  city, 
with  its  corporate  rights  and  officers.     Of  course  there 
are  only  small  materials  here  for  the  composition  of 
mayor  and  council,  and  they  are,  theiefore,  small  men ; 
but  they  are  in  keeping  with  the  place  and  people,  and 
that  is  more  than  one  could  say  of  the  lord  mayor  and 
aldeipnen  of  the  city  of  London,  if  they  should  be  here. 
It  is  truly  a  city  in  a  forest ;  for  the  large  stumps  of  the 
original  pines  are  still  standing  in  the  main  street,  and 


new  woo 
defy  the 
I  went 
as  one  cc 
cleaner, 
thunder-s 
mendous 
fectory,  i] 
on  my  sai 
for  the  r 
came  sp: 
style.     B 
here.     A 
through, 
vessel  as 
A  searchi 
and  my  ] 
up  my  mi 
that  migl 
caution  tt 
aware  of 
share  of 
some  was 
if  things 
the  pros] 
less,  shir 
There 
Presbytei 
odists. 
them  in 
greenswa 
want  of  ] 
people  h( 
costs  not 
according 
town;  ai 
for  its  Wi 
nowhere. 


SANDUSKY. 


99 


nding  all 
I  exceeil- 
ded  seri- 
t  her  life 
(iected  by 
ight  with 
r  husband 
lUt  chang- 
lie  season 
under  the 
who  was 
who  had 
ff  became 
temporary 
,  and  pro- 
sion.  In 
•t  be  done 
hey  had  a 
I  minister 
on.  The 
n.  children 
f  the  two 
e  hundred 
in  them/' 
d  the  anx- 
cord  facts, 
idusky,  at 
is  prettily 
le  country 
more  than 
3S9  a  city, 
urse  there 
osition  of 
nail  men; 
eople,  and 
nayor  and 
d  be  here, 
nps  of  the 
street,  and 


I 


over  the  spots  that  have  been  cleared  for  settlement,  the 
new  wood  is  springing  up  with  amazing  vigour,  as  if  to 
defy  the  hand  of  man. 

I  went  to  the  best  inn  in  the  town.  It  was  not  such 
as  one  could  boast  of;  but  it  had  been  better,  had  it  been 
cleaner.  It  was,  however,  welcome  to  me,  as  a  heavy 
thunder-storm  was  just  beginning  to  put  forth  its  tre- 
mendous power.  When  seated  at  the  table  of  the  re- 
fectory, in  search  of  refreshments,  I  congratulated  myself 
on  my  safety  ;  but  my  confidence  was  quickly  moderated, 
for  the  rain  soon  found  its  way  within  the  house,  and 
came  spattering  down  the  walls  of  the  room  in  strange 
style.  By-the-by,  few  things  seem  to  be  water-proof 
here.  A  second  time,  my  luggage  has  been  soaked 
through.  I  had  placed  it  under  the  upper  deck  of  the 
vessel  as  a  place  of  perfect  security ;  but  it  was  vain. 
A  searching  rain  came  on  in  the  night ;  the  deck  leaked, 
and  my  portmanteau  suffered.  However,  I  had  made 
up  my  mind,  in  starting,  not  to  be  disturbed  by  any  thing 
that  might  be  injured,  lost,  or  stolen  on  the  way :  a  pre- 
caution that  had  certainly  more  wisdom  in  it  than  I  was 
aware  of;  for,  without  it,  I  might  have  had  a  pretty  good 
share  of  disturbance.  Already  much  was  injured,  and 
some  was  stolen :  of  the  future  I  could  not  speak ;  but, 
if  things  went  on  in  the  same  promising  manner,  I  had 
the  prospect  of  being  returned  to  New- York  in  a  coat- 
less,  shirtless,  and  very  bootless  condition. 

There  are  two  places  of  worship  here ;  one  for  the 
Presbyterians,  and  the  other  for  the  Episcopal  Meth- 
odists. The  first  is  without  a  minister ;  and  neither  of 
them  in  a  very  flourishing  state.  They  stand  on  the 
greensward ;  they  are  about  thirty  feet  square,  and  for 
want  of  paint,  have  a  worn  and  dirty  aspect.  The  good 
people  here  reverse  the  Dutch  proverb ;  it  is  not  "  Paint 
costs  nothing,"  but  "  Wood  costs  nothing ;"  and  they  act 
accordingly.  They  will,  however,  improve  with  the 
town ;  and  at  present  they  offer  accommodation  enough 
for  its  wants ;  but  half  the  adult  population  certainly  gp 
nowhere. 

E8 


!  \ 


1  -  ■ 

!   - 

\ 


100 


COLUMBUS. 


I  J    ' 


Indeed,  the  state  of  religious  and  moral  feeling  was 
evidently  very  low  here.  For  the  first  time  I  overheard 
obscene  conversation ;  and  I  heard  more  swearing  and 
saw  more  Sabbath-breaking  than  I  had  before  witnessed. 
There  were  many  Groceries^  as  they  call  themselves, 
here ;  Groggeries,  as  their  enemies  call  them ;  and  they 
were  all  full.  Manners,  which  are  consequent  on  re- 
ligion and  morahty,  were  proportionally  affected.  I  felt 
that  I  was  introduced  to  a  new  state  of  things,  which 
demanded  my  best  attention. 

Having  rested  here  over  the  Sabbath,  I  arranged  to 
leave  by  coach  early  in  the  morning  for  Columbus.  We 
were  to  start,  I  was  told,  at  three  o'clock ;  I  rose,  there- 
fore, at  two.  Soon  after  I  had  risen,  the  bar-agent  came, 
to  say  that  the  coach  was  ready,  and  would  start  in  ten 
minutes,  as  the  rain  had  made  the  roads  bad.  This  was 
rather  an  ominous  as  well  as  xmtimely  intimation.  But 
there  was  no  remedy ;  so  I  made  what  haste  I  could  in 
dressing,  and  went  down  to  take  my  place.  I  had  no 
sooner  begun  to  enter  the  coach,  than  splash  went  my 
foot  in  mud  and  water.  I  exclaimed  with  surprise. 
"  Soon  be  dry,  sir,"  was  the  reply ;  while  he  withdrew 
the  light,  that  I  might  not  explore  the  cause  of  complaint. 
The  fact  was,  that  the  vehicle,  hke  the  hotel  and  the 
steamboat,  was  not  water-tight,  and  the  rain  had  found 
an  entrance.  There  was,  indeed,  in  this  coach,  as  in 
most  others,  a  provision  in  the  bottom,  of  holes,  to  let  off 
both  water  and  dirt ;  but  here  the  dirt  had  become  mud, 
and  thickened  about  the  orifices  so  as  to  prevent  escape. 
I  found  I  was  the  only  passenger;  the  morning  was 
damp  and  chilly ;  the  state  of  the  coach  added  to  the 
sensation ;  and  I  eagerly  looked  about  for  some  means 
of  protection.  I  drew  up  the  wooden  windows ;  out  of 
five  small  panes  of  glass  in  the  sashes,  three  were  bro- 
ken. I  endeavoured  to  secure  the  curtains ;  two  of  them 
had  most  of  the  ties  broken,  and  flapped  in  one's  face. 
There  was  no  help  in  the  coach;  so  I  looked  to  myself. 
I  made  the  best  use  I  could  of  my  garments,  and  put  my- 
self as  snugly  as  I  could  in  the  corner  of  a  stage  meant 


to  accomi 
then  not  i 
ing;  ever 
me;  and  i 
screechinf 
for  my  em 

But  th( 
All  that  \ 
upon  me. 
able:  the; 
The  horse 
the  way; 
tain  whet 
sooner  rec 
there  cam 
founded  a 
was  liters 
should  I  li 
I  at  first  0 
Let  me  di 
by  stating 
four  horse 
miles;  an 
Columbus 
conveyan( 
any  in  tht 

At  six 
we  were 
respite  m 
order,  ver 
abundant 
ter  and  t 
eggs,  and 
driver  sa 
host  wai 
case  in  s 
subsidiar 
whole  of 
picture ; 


RUSSELI       TAVERN. 


101 


I     : 


to  accommodate  nine  persons.  My  situation  was  just 
then  not  among  the  most  cheerful.  I  could  see  noth- 
ing ;  everywhere  I  could  feel  the  wind  drawn  in  upon 
me;  and  as  for  sounds,  I  had  the  calls  of  the  driver,  the 
screeching  of  the  wheels,  and  the  song  of  the  bull-frog, 
for  my  entertainment. 

.  But  the  worst  of  my  solitary  situation  was  to  come. 
All  that  had  been  intimated  about  bad  roads  now  came 
upon  me.  They  were  not  only  bad ;  they  were  intoler- 
able :  they  were  rather  like  a  stony  ditch  than  a  road. 
The  horses,  on  the  first  stages,  could  only  walk  most  of 
the  way ;  we  were  frequently  in  to  the  axletree,  uncer- 
tain whether  we  should  ever  get  out;  and  I  had  no 
sooner  recovered  from  a  terrible  plunge  on  one  side,  than 
there  came  another  in  the  opposite  direction,  and  con- 
founded all  my  efforts  to  preserve  a  steady  sitting.  I 
was  literally  thrown  about  like  a  ball.  How  gladly 
should  I  have  kept  fixed  possession  of  that  corner,  which 
I  at  first  occupied  with  some  degree  of  dissatisfaction ! 
Let  me  dismiss  the  subject  of  bad  roads  for  this  journey, 
by  stating,  in  illustration,  that,  with  an  empty  coach,  and 
four  horses,  we  were  seven  hours  in  going  twenty-three 
miles ;  and  that  we  were  twenty-eight  hours  in  getting  to 
Columbus,  a  distance  of  110  miles.  Yet  this  line  of 
conveyance  was  advertised  as  a  "  splendid  line,  equal  to 
any  in  the  States." 

At  six  o'clock  we  arrived  at  Russell's  Tavern,  where 
we  were  to  take  breakfast.  I  was  quite  as  glad  of  the 
respite  as  of  the  meal.  This  is  a  nice  inn;  in  good 
order,  very  clean,  and  the  best  provision.  There  was  an 
abundant  supply ;  but  most  of  it  was  prepared  with  but- 
ter and  the  frying-pan ;  still  there  was  good  coffee  and 
eggs,  and  delightful  bread.  Most  of  the  family  and  the 
driver  sat  down  at  table,  and  the  two  daughters  of  our 
host  waited  on  us.  Mr.  Russell,  as  is  commonly  the 
case  in  such  districts,  made  the  occupation  of  innkeeper 
subsidiary  to  that  of  farming.  You  commanded  the 
whole  of  his  farm  from  the  door,  and  it  was  really  a  fine 
picture ;  the  soil  so  good,  the  ground  so  well  kept,  and 

0* 


\S»i^ 


102 


PRAIRIES. 


I 


the  young  crops  so  blooming  and  promising  in  the  midat 
of  the  desert.  From  the  good  manners  of  this  family, 
and  from  the  good  husbandry  and  respectable  carriage 
of  the  father,  I  hoped  to  find  a  regard  for  religion  here. 
I  turned  to  the  rack  of  the  bar,  and  found  there  three 
books ;  they  were,  the  Gazetteer  of  Ohio,  Popular  Geog- 
raphy, and  the  Bible  ;  they  all  denoted  intelligence ;  the 
last  was  the  most  used.  This  was  as  I  expected,  and 
as  it  should  be. 

Things  now  began  to  mend  with  me ;  daylight  had 
come ;  the  atmosphere  was  getting  warm  and  bland ;  I 
had  the  benefit  of  a  good  breakfast ;  the  road  was  in 
some  measure  improved  ;  it  was  possible  to  look  abroad, 
and  every  thing  was  inviting  attention.  We  were  now 
passing  over  what  is  called  the  Grand  Prairie ;  and  the 
prairies  of  this  western  country  are,  as  you  know,  con- 
spicuous among  its  phenomena.  I  will  not  burden  you 
by  my  speculations  on  the  subject,  except  to  say  they  are 
certainly  of  vegetable  formation ;  and  it  may,  I  conceive, 
be  readily  determined  by  what  processes.  The  first  im- 
pression did  not  please  me  so  much  as  I  expected.  The 
soil  when  recovered  is  rich,  and  the  staple  strong ;  but 
in  its  natural  state  much  of  it  is  inclined  to  be  wet  and 
boggy.  It  is  flat;  it  is  covered  with  a  thick,  coarse, 
knotted  grass,  and  in  the  near  view  is  prettily  coloured 
by  the  bright  colours  of  the  rose,  the  flag,  the  marigold, 
the  dwarf  willow,  and  the  lupin,  which  is  here  a  little 
shrub.  It  rather  interests  by  its  singularity,  than  other- 
wise. If  there  be  any  other  source  of  interest,  it  may 
be  found  in  its  expansion  over  a  wide  region.  In  this 
respect  it  has  been  compared  with  the  sea ;  but  it  can 
only  suffer  in  the  comparison ;  it  has  neither  the  move- 
ment nor  the  capacity  of  the  ocean. 

Specimens  of  the  real  log-hut,  with  its  proper  accom- 
paniments, were  beginning  to  appear.  It  is  composed  of 
stems  of  timber  unbarked,  and  in  their  rough  state,  of 
from  six  to  nine  inches  in  diameter.  These  are  notched 
at  the  extremities  to  receive  each  other,  and  are  laid  on 
till  they  get  ten  or  twelve  feet  above  the  ground ;  they 


then  shoot 
of  loose  b 
kept  in  its 
to  those  a] 
apart.  Tl 
show  a  do( 
a  projectic 
from  the  I 
of  lath,  an 
instantly  k 
best  specii 
they  are  1 
find  any  t 
cottage  ? 

These  ] 
erection,  a 
as  an  ass 
worth  abo 
may  get  a 
railed  fenc 

Most  of 
Germans, 
lies,  who 
enjjaged  i 
for  the  w 
of  house 
passed  oi 
another  t 
judge. 

But  tb 
It  now  ap 
tall,  magi 
appointed 
larger  foi 
was  no  p 
ever,  to 
it  arise 
rep*dily  1: 
combinat 


LOO-HUTS. 


103 


le  midat 
family, 
carriage 
on  here, 
re  three 
ir  Geog- 
ice;  the 
ted,  and 

ght  had 
)land;  I 
i  was  in 
:  abroad, 
ere  now 

and  the 
ow,  con- 
■den  you 
they  are 
!onceive, 
first  im- 
d.  The 
}ng;  but 
wet  and 
,  coarse, 
coloured 
narigold, 
e  a  little 
m  other- 
t,  it  may 

In  this 
ut  it  can 
le  move- 

•  accom- 
posed  of 
state,  of 
notched 
'  laid  on 
d;  they 


then  shoot  off  to  form  the  gables.  The  roof  is  composed 
of  loose  boarding  (not  amounting  to  shingle),  and  it  is 
kept  in  its  place  against  wind  and  rain  by  stems,  similar 
to  those  already  used,  laid  lengthwise,  at  about  two  feet 
apart.  They  conunonly  afford  two  small  rooms,  and 
show  a  door  and  window  in  front.  At  one  end  there  is 
a  projection  for  a  fireplace ;  it  is  carried  up  distinctly 
from  the  base,  and  is  mostly  constructed  of  a  rude  sort 
of  lath,  and  coated  with  clay.  In  case  of  fire  it  can  be 
instantly  knocked  down,  so  as  to  save  the  cottage.  The 
best  specimens  do  not  look  amiss  in  the  picture,  although 
they  are  far  behind  Switzerland.  But  where  shall  we 
find  any  thing  of  its  class  so  picturesque  as  the  Swiss 
cottage  T  $ 

These  huts,  such  as  I  have  described,  cost,  in  the 
erection,  about  twenty-eight  dollars.  Let  me  also  add 
as  an  assistance  to  your  judgment,  that  land  here  ia 
worth  about  two  dollars  and  a  half  per  acre ;  and  you 
may  get  a  piece  of  five  acres  cleared,  and  a  good  eight- 
railed  fence  round  it,  for  forty  dollars. 

Most  of  the  recent  settlers  along  this  road  seem  to  be 
Germans.  We  passed  a  little  settlement  of  eight  fami- 
lies, who  had  arrived  this  season.  They  were  busily 
engaged  in  clearing  their  land  and  getting  up  a  shelter 
for  the  winter.  The  log-house  is  the  only  description 
of  house  in  these  new  and  scattered  settlements.  I 
passed  one  occupied  by  a  doctor  of  medicine ;  and 
another  tenanted  by  two  bachelors,  one  of  them  being  a 
judge. 

But  the  most  interesting  sight  to  me  was  the  loresf . 
It  now  appeared  in  all  its  pristine  state  and  grandeur, 
tall,  magnificent,  boundless.  I  had  been  somewhat  dis- 
appointed in  not  finding  vegetation  develop  itself  in 
larger  forms  in  New-England  than  with  us ;  but  there 
was  no  place  for  disappointment  here.  I  shall  fail,  how- 
ever, tc  give  you  the  impression  it  makes  on  one.  Did 
it  arise  from  height,  or  figure,  or  grouping,  it  might 
readily  be  conveyed  to  you ;  but  it  arises  chiefly  from 
combination.     You  must  see  it  in  all  its  stages  of  growth* 


: 


i!  :"■ 


'      I 


,f  -  X 


104 


THE    FOREST. 


decay,  dissolution,  and  regeneration;  you  must  see  it 
pressing  on  you  and  overshadowing  you  by  its  silent 
forms,  and  at  other  times  spreading  itself  before  you, 
like  a  natural  park  ;  you  must  see  that  all  the  clearances 
made  by  the  human  hand  bear  no  higher  relation  to  it 
than  does  a  mountain  to  the  globe  ;  you  must  travel  in 
it  in  solitariness,  hour  after  hour,  and  day  after  day,  fre- 
quently gazing  on  it  with  solemn  delight,  and  occasion- 
ally casting  the  eye  round  in  search  of  some  pause,  some 
end,  without  finding  any,  before  you  can  fully  understand 
the  impression.  Men  say  there  is  nothing  in  America  to 
give  you  the  sense  of  antiquity ;  and  they  mean  that  as 
there  are  no  works  of  art  to  produce  this  effect,  there 
can  be  nothing  else.  You  cannot  think  that  I  would  de- 
preciate what  they  mean  to  extol ;  but  I  hope  you  will 
sympathize  with  me,  when  I  say  that  I  have  met  with 
nothing  among  the  most  venerable  forms  of  art,  which 
impresses  you  so  thoroughly  with  the  idea  of  indefinite 
distance  and  endless  continuity ;  of  antiquity  shrouded  in 
all  its  mystery  of  solitude,  illimitable  and  eternal. 

The  clearances,  too,  which  appeared  in  this  ride, 
were  on  so  small  a  scale  as  to  strengthen  this  impres- 
sion, and  to  convey  distinct  impressions  of  their  own. 
On  them  the  vast  trees  of  the  forest  had  been  girdled  to 
prevent  the  foUage  from  appearing  to  overshadow  the 
ground ;  and  the  land  at  their  feet  was  grubbed  up 
and  sown  with  corn,  which  was  expanding  on  the  sur- 
face in  all  its  luxuriance.  The  thin  stems  of  Indian 
corn  were  strangely  contrasted  with  the  huge  trunks  of 
the  pine  and  oak,  and  the  verdant  surface  below  was  as 
strangely  opposed  to  the  skeleton  trees  towering  abo%'e, 
spreading  out  their  leafless  arms  to  the  warm  sun  and 
the  refreshing  rains,  and  doing  it  in  vain.  Life  and  deso- 
lation were  never  brought  closer  together. 

It  appeared,  in  this  morning  ride,  that  the  storm  which 
passed  over  Sandusky  had  spent  its  power  chiefly  on 
this  road.  I  passed  by  a  spot  where  it  had  been  very 
destructive.  A  man  had  been  killed  by  the  lightning, 
(uid  two  cottages  crushed  by  the  falling  timber.     A  road 


i 


crossmg 
and  alonj 
This  vari 
you  in  su( 
dense  and 
of  their 
which  the: 
crashing,  { 
yuu  surpri 

The  st< 
dangerous 
danger, 
different  s 
wind,  and 
avalanche 

About  n 
an  inn,  wh 
very  early 
indisposed 
was  told 
wanted, 
thing  read] 
time ;  but 
was  ham  £ 
for  frying ; 
There  remi 
these  I  ma 

While  h 
tiers,  passi 
taken  the  f 
for  him,  an 
time.  Sh( 
bore  the  cc 
arm.  This 
or  of  the  I 

Here  ah 
to  the  "Fi 
fanatics;  s 
ting  the  E 


STORM  IN  THE  FOREST. 


105 


I  i 


some 


crossing  ours  was  entirely  stopped  by  the  fallen  trees ; 
and  along  our  course  they  were  lying  great  in  ruin. 
This  variety  in  the  scene  has  a  surprising  effect  upon 
you  in  such  circumstances.  In  travelling  through  these 
dense  and  elevated  forests,  you  are  awed  by  a  deep  sense 
of  their  power  and  majesty ;  but  here  was  a  Power,  to 
which  their  resistance  was  as  nothing,  that  struck  them, 
crashing,  groaning,  to  the  ground.  Like  Niagara,  it  puts 
you  surprisingly  near  to  Deity. 

The  storm  in  the  forest  is  not  only* awful;  it  is  very 
dangerous.  Even  in  a  full  wind  there  is  considerable 
danger.  A  great  portion  of  the  trees  are  always  in 
different  stages  of  decay.  They  creak  and  groan  in  the 
wind,  and  with  every  gust  they  come  dashing,  like  the 
avalanche  to  the  earth. 

About  noon  we  arrived  at  a  little  town,  and  stopped  at 
an  inn,  which  was  announced  as  the  dining-place.  My 
very  early  breakfast,  and  my  violent  exercise,  had  not 
indisposed  me  for  dinner.  But  when  I  inquired  for  it,  I 
was  told  that  none  was  prepared,  as  it  was  not  often 
wanted.  This  was  modified  by  an  offer  to  "  get  some- 
thing ready,"  which  I  willingly  accepted.  It  took  some 
time ;  but  it  was  a  very  poor  affair.  The  chief  dish 
was  hain  fried  in  butter — originally  hard,  and  the  harder 
for  frying  ;  I  tried  to  get  my  teeth  through  it,  and  failed. 
There  remained  bread,  cheese,  and  cranberries  ;  and  of 
these  I  made  my  repast. 

While  here,  a  German  woman,  one  of  the  recent  set- 
tlers, passed  by  on  her  way  home.  Her  husband  had 
taken  the  fever  and  died.  She  had  come  to  buy  a^  cofiin 
for  him,  and  other  articles  of  domestic  use  at  the  same 
time.  She  was  now  walking  home  beside  the  man  who 
bore  the  coffin  ;  and  with  her  other  purchases  under  her 
arm.  This  was  a  sad  specimen  either  of  German  phlegm, 
or  of  the  hardening  effect  of  poverty. 

Here  also  was  a  set  of  Mormonites,  passing  through 
to  the  "  Far  West."  They  are  among  the  most  deluded 
fanatics ;  and  profens  to  be  obeying  a  prophecy,  in  quit- 
ting the  East,  and  seeking  their  millennium  beyond  the 

E  3 


106 


STAGECOACH. 


.'  i  I 


Mississippi.  A  gentleman  inquired  of  one  of  them,  why 
they  left  their  own  country  ?  "  0,"  he  said,  "  there  is 
ruin  coming  on  it." — "  How  do  you  know  1" — "  It  was 
revealed  to  him." — "  How  was  it  revealed  to  you  ?" — "  I 
saw  five  letters  in  the  sky." — "  Indeed !  what  were 
they  1" — "  F  A  M I N,"  was  the  reply  ;  a  reply  which 
created  much  ridicule,  and  some  profanity. 

We  now  took  in  three  persons  who  were  going  on  to 
Marion.  I  had  the  benefit  of  a  better  balanced  coach ; 
but  this  was  all  the  advantage  arising  from  the  change. 
One  was  a  colonel ;  though  in  mind,  manners,  and  ap- 
pearance, among  the  plainest  of  men.  Another  was  a 
lawyer  and  magistrate  ;  and  the  third  was  a  considerable 
farmer.  All  of  them,  by  their  station  and  avocations, 
ought  to  have  been  gentlemen  ;  but,  if  just  terms  are  to 
be  applied  to  them,  they  must  be  the  opposite  of  this. 
To  me,  they  were  always  civil ;  but  among  themselves 
they  were  evidently  accustomed  to  blasphemous  and 
corrupt  conversation.  The  colonel,  who  had  admitted 
himself  to  be  a  Methodist,  was  the  best,  and  sought  to 
impose  restraints  on  himself  and  companions;  but  he 
gamed  very  little  credit  for  them.  I  was  much  grieved 
and  disappointed,  for  I  had  met  with  nothing  so  bad. 
What  I  had  witnessed  at  Sandusky  was  from  a  different 
and  lower  class  of  persons ;  but  here  were  the  first  three 
men  in  respectable  life  with  whom  I  had  met  in  this 
State  ;  and  these  put  promiscuously  before  me — and  all 
bad.  It  was  necessary  to  guard  against  a  hasty  and 
prejudiced  conclusion. 

On  reaching  Marion  I  was  released  from  my  unpleas- 
ant companions.  I  had  to  travel  through  most  of  the 
night,  but  no  refreshment  was  provided.  I  joined  in  a 
meal,  that  was  nearly  closed  by  another  party,  and  pre* 
pared  to  go  forward  at  the  call  of  the  driver.  I  soon 
found  I  was  to  be  in  different  circumstances.  We  were 
nine  persons,  and  a  child,  within.  Of  course,  after 
having  been  tossed  about  in  an  empty  coach  all  day,  like 
a  boat  on  the  ocean,  I  was  not  unwilling  to  have  the 
pospect  of  sitting  steadily  in  my  comer ;  but  when  I 


got  fairly 
seat,  and 
out  my  bi 
there  wei 
road  was 
come  for 
clination, 
hill ;  the  1 
too,  thoug 
objectiona! 
There  ^ 
daughter, 
sation.     S 
the  stage, 
freely  on 
judge's  lai 
it  in  brokei 
broken,     j 
to  be  gettii 
was  not  di 
to  mamms 
struck   up 
home."     \ 
yet  none  \ 
as  a  point 
tionably  n 
At  near 
I  was  proi 
that  prom 
freshment 
manded  ( 
daughter 
There  wa 
that  xshe 
proper  tr< 
gained  w 
could  nai 
I  was 
dressing 


DELAWARE. 


107 


got  fairly  pinned  in — sides,  knees,  and  feet — the  hard 
seat,  and  the  harder  ribs  of  the  coach,  began  to  search 
out  my  bruises,  and  I  was  still  a  sufferer.  However, 
there  were  now  some  qualifying  considerations.  The 
road  was  improving,  and  with  it  the  scenery.  I  had 
come  for  fifty  miles  over  a  dead  flat,  with  only  one  in- 
clination, and  that  not  greater  than  the  pitch  of  Ludgate- 
hill ;  the  land  was  now  finely  undulated.  My  company, 
too,  though  there  was  something  too  much  of  it,  was  not 
objectionable ;  some  of  it  was  pleasing. 

There  were  among  them,  the  lady  of  a  judge  and  her 
daughter.  The  mother  was  affable  and  fond  of  convert 
sation.  She  was  glad  we  had  such  agreeable  society  in 
the  stage,  as  "  that  did  not  always  happen."  She  talked 
freely  on  many  subjects,  and  sometimes,  as  became  a 
judge's  lady,  of  refinement  and  education ;  but  she  did 
it  in  broken  grammar,  and  in  happy  ignorance  that  it  was 
broken.  As  the  night  shut  in,  and  her  daughter  appeared 
to  be  getting  drowsy,  she  challenged  her  to  sing.  Mary 
was  not  disposed  to  comply.  It  made  little  difference 
to  mamma ;  for  she,  without  the  least  embarrassment, 
struck  up  and  sang  off,  very  fairly,  "  Home,  sweet 
home."  This  was  all  unasked,  and  before  strangers  ; 
yet  none  were  surprised  but  myself.  I  name  this  merely 
as  a  point  of  manners.  The  lady  herself  was  unques- 
tionably modest,  intelligent,  and,  as  I  think,  pious. 

At  nearly  one  o'clock,  we  arrived  at  Delaware.  Here 
I  was  promised  a  night's  rest.  You  shall  judge  whether 
that  promise  was  kept  or  broken.  There  was  no  re- 
freshment of  any  kind  prepared  or  offered,  so  we  de- 
manded our  lights  to  retire.  The  judge's  lady  and 
daughter  were  shown  into  a  closet,  called  a  room. 
There  was  no  fastening  to  the  door,  and  she  protested 
that  Nshe  would  not  use  it.  I  insisted  that  it  was  not 
proper  treatment.  All  the  amendment  that  could  be 
gained  was  a  proposition  "to  fetch  a  nail,  and  she 
could  nail  herself  in,  and  be  snug  enough." 

I  was  shown  into  a  similar  closet.  There  were  tio 
dressing  accommodations.     I  required  them,  and  was 


I  i 


h 


i 


108 


COLUMBUS. 


told  that  those  things  were  in  common  below.  I  refused 
to  use  them ;  and  at  length,  by  showing  a  little  Armness 
and  a  little  kindness,  obtained  soap,  bowl,  and  towel.  I 
dressed.  By  this  time  it  was  nearly  two  o^clock.  I  was 
to  be  called  at  half  past  two ;  and  I  threw  myself  on  the 
bed  to  try  to  sleep,  with  the  soothing  impression  that  I 
must  awake  in  half  an  hour. 

At  half  past  two  I  was  summoned ;  and  having  put 
myself  in  readiness,  and  paid  for  a  night's  lodging,  I  was 
again  on  my  way.  The  day  broke  on  us  pleasantly,  and 
the  country  was  very  beautiful.  We  forded  the  Whet- 
stone, a  lively  river,  which  ornamented  the  ride;  wc 
passed  through  Worthington,  a  smart  town,  prettily 
placed,  and  having  a  good  college ;  and  arrived  at  Colum- 
bus, the  capital,  at  nine  o'clock. 


LETTER  XI. 

My  OEA.R  Friend, 

Columbus  has  a  good  location  in  the  heart  of  the 
State ;  it  contains  about  4,000  persons,  and  is  in  a  very 
advancing  condition.  This  indeed  is  true  of  all  the 
settlements  in  this  State ;  and  you  will  hardly  think  it 
can  be  otherwise,  when  I  inform  you,  that  forty  years  ago 
there  were  only  500  persons  in  the  whole  territory,  and 
that  now  there  are  above  a  million. 

The  inn  at  which  we  stopped  is  the  rendezvbus  of 
the  stages.  Among  others  there  were  two  ready  to  start 
for  Cincinnati.  Our  coach,  by  arriving  at  nine  instead 
of  eight,  deprived  me  of  the  hour  which  should  have 
been  given  to  dressing  and  breakfast.  If  I  went  on,- 1 
must  of  necessity  go  on  immediately.  Time  was  pre- 
cious, and  I  resolved  on  going.  On  seeking  to  engage 
my  place,  the  inquiry  was,  "  Which  will  you  go  by,  sir ; 


the  fast 
slow  lin 
quickly 
the  mail 
we  had 

In  del 
of  all  th< 
ful  thing 
but  on  a 
rible.  I 
shamefu 
however 
the  previ 
serious  i 
or  sleep, 
was  obli 
all  I  cou 
times  thi 
over  aga! 
bouring  1 

About 
We  wer€ 
chance  o 
Howevei 
twenty-f< 
could, 
a  very  sh 
before  n 
It  was  a 
was  onlj 

"Hov 
ess,  who 
flies.  " 
tovm?" 
house  w 
tsettled  h 
somethix 
and  civil 

On  l€ 


"i 


JEFFERSON. 


109 


I  refused 
firmness 
owel.  I 
:.  I  was 
3lf  on  the 
on  that  I 

iving  put 
%gt  I  was 
intly,  and 
le  Whet- 
ride  ;  wc 
prettily 
it  Colum- 


rt  of  the 
n  a  very 
all  the 
think  it 
ears  ago 
ory,  and 

vous  of 
to  start 
instead 
Id  have 
int  on,.  I 
iras  pre- 
engage 
by,  sir  J 


tlie  fast  or  the  slow  linel"  Weary  as  I  wan  of  the 
slow  line,  I  exclaimed,  "  0,  the  fast  line,  certainly !"  I 
quickly  found  myself  enclosed  in  a  good  coach,  carrying 
the  mail,  and  only  six  persons  inside.  In  this  journey 
we  had  but  three. 

In  demanding  to  go  by  the  fast  line,  I  was  not  aware 
of  all  the  effects  of  my  choice.  It  is  certainly  a  delight- 
ful thing  to  move  with  some  rapidity  over  a  good  road, 
but  on  a  bad  road,  with  stubborn  springs,  it  is  really  ter- 
rible. For  many  miles  out  of  Columbus  the  road  is 
shamefully  bad ;  and  as  our  horses  were  kept  on  a  trot, 
however  slow,  I  was  not  only  tumbled  and  shaken  as  on 
the  previous  day,  but  so  jarred  and  jolted  as  to  threaten 
serious  mischief.  Instead,  therefore,  of  finding  a  lounge, 
or  sleep,  as  I  had  hoped,  in  this  comfortable  coachf  I 
was  obliged  to  be  on  the  alert  for  every  jerk ;  and  after 
all  I  could  do,  my  teeth  were  jarred,  my  hat  was  many 
times  thrown  from  my  head,  and  all  my  bruises  bruised 
over  again.  It  was  really  an  amu!«ement  to  see  us  la- 
bouring to  keep  our  places. 

About  noon  we  paused  at  the  town  called  Jefferson. 
We  were  to  wait  half  an  hour ;  there  would  be  no  other 
chance  of  dinner ;  but  there  were  no  signs  of  dinner  here. 
However,  I  l»d  been  on  very  short  supplies  for  the  last 
twenty-four  hours,  and  considered  it  my  duty  to  eat  if  I 
could.  I  applied  to  the  good  woman  of  the  inn ;  and  in 
a  very  short  time,  she  placed  venison,  fruit-tarts,  and  tea, 
before  me ;  all  very  clean,  and  the  venison  excellent. 
It  was  a  refreshing  repast,  and  the  demand  on  my  purse 
was  only  twenty-five  cents. 

"  How  long  have  you  been  here  V  I  said  to  my  host- 
ess, who  stood  by  me  fanning  the  dishes  to  keep  off  the 
fiies.  ''  Only  came  last  fall,  sir."  "  How  old  is  this 
tovm  ?"  "  Twenty-three  months,  sir ;  then  the  first 
house  was  built."  There  are  now  about  500  persons 
tBettled  here ;  and  there  are  three  good  hotels.  There  is 
something  very  striking  in  these  rapid  movements  of  life 
and  civilization  in  the  heart  of  the  forest. 

On  leaving  Jefferson,  we   plunged  again  into  the 

10 


I  ^  > 


no 


THE  FOREST. 


forest ;  and  towards  evening  we  got  on  the  greensward, 
or  natural  road.  This  was  mostly  good  and  uncut ;  and 
we  bowled  along  in  serpentine  hnes,  so  as  to  clear  the 
stumps  with  much  freedom.  The  scenery  now,  even  for 
the  forest,  was  becoming  unusually  grand.  It  repeated' 
ly  broke  away  from  you,  so  as  to  accumulate  the  objects 
in  the  picture,  and  to  furnish  all  the  beauties  of  lijirht, 
sliade,  and  perspective.  The  trees,  too,  were  mostly 
oak,  and  of  the  finest  growth.  Their  noble  stems  ran  up 
some  hundred  feet  above  you,  and  were  beautifully  feath- 
ered with  verdant  foliage.  There,  they  ran  off  in  the 
distance,  park-like,  but  grander  far,  in  admirable  group- 
ing, forming  avenues,  galleries,  and  recesses,  redolent 
with  solemn  loveliness  ;  and  here,  they  stood  before  you 
like  the  thousand  pillars  of  one  vast  imperishable  temple 
for  the  worship  of  the  Great  Invisible.  Well  might  our 
stout  forefathers  choose  the  primitive  forests  for  t^eir 
sanctuaries.  All  that  art  has  done  in  our  finest  Gothic 
structures  is  but  a  poor,  poor  imitation ! 

I  passed,  in  this  day^s  ride,  the  Yellow  Springs,  and 
Springfield.  The  former  is  a  watering-place.  There  is 
a  fine  spring  of  chalybeate  waters ;  and  an  establishment 
capable  of  receiving  from  150  to  200  visiters;  it  is  re- 
sorted to  for  the  purposes  of  health,  Imnting,  and  fish- 
ing. Springfield  is  a  fiourishing  town,  built  among  the 
handsome  hills  that  abound  in  this  vicinity.  It  is  one 
of  the  cleanest,  brightest,  and  most  inviting  that  I  have 
seen.  But  all  the  habitations  of  man  were  as  nothing 
compared  with  the  forest.  I  had  been  travelling  through 
it  for  two  days  and  nights,  and  still  it  was  the  same. 
Now  you  came  to  a  woodman's  hut  in  the  solitudes ; 
now  to  a  farm ;  and  now  to  a  village,  by  courtesy  called  a 
town  or  a  city  ;  but  it  was  still  the  forest.  You  drove 
on  for  miles  through  it  unbroken  ;  then  you  camr'  to  a 
small  clearance  and  a  young  settlement ;  a'  <  i'  < .  ,  un 
you  plunged  into  the  wide,  everlasting  fore^u,  lo  be  with 
nature  and  with  God. 

This  night  I  had  also  to  travel,  and,  weary  as  I  was, 
I  was  kept  quite  on  the  alert.     I  had  longed  to  witness 


a  storm  i 
my  antic 
night  can 
firefly  ap 
to  flash  fl 
moving  fi 
of  the  sk 
canopy 
bright, 
no  centrf 
imm'  ns 
wi(h  j^rei 
prodtgit 
snnding 
idtion.    1 
margin  n 
forked  lig 
the  thunr 
pealed  th 
unbroken 
burst  for 
the  gian 
deep  fore 
storm,  su 
God's  oy 
see  so  m 
mirable  ( 

It  cea 
bore  the 
fly,  whic 
and  sparl 
ently  th 
nantly  oi 

The  e 
iing  serii 
at  Lebai 
to  sickei 
lonelines 
halted  hi 


STORM    AT   NIOHT. 


Ill 


lensward, 
icut ;  and 
clear  the 
even  for 
repeated- 
le  objects 
of  li;B:ht. 
I  mostly 
ns  ran  up 
lly  feath- 
flr  in  the 
)  group- 
redolent 
I  fore  you 
e  temple 
light  oui 
for  their 
t  Gothic 

ngs,  and 
There  is 
lishment 
it  is  re- 
ind  iish- 
tong  the 
t  is  one 
I  have 
nothing 
through 
e  same, 
ditudes ; 
called  a 
Ml  drove 
me  to  a 
Ji  c'.,vin 
be  with 

I  I  was, 
witness 


a  storm  in  the  forest,  and  this  was  to  happen  (*arlior  than 
my  anticip  iiions.  The  day  had  beo/t  hot,  bui  fine  ;  the 
night  came  on  sultry,  close,  and  silent.  The  bcHutuful 
firefly  appeared  in  abundance;  suniinor  iigbtnu  '^  began 
to  flash  across  the  heavens.  All  this  iime  cIoudH  w^re 
moving  from  every  part  of  the  circumference  to  the  centre 
of  the  sky.  At  length  they  formed  a  heavy,  dense,  black 
cartopy  over  our  heads,  leaving  the  horizon  clear  and 
bright.  The  lightnings,  which  at  first  seemed  to  have 
no  centre,  had  now  consolidated  their  forces  behind  this 
immms^  ' .^vid,  .vnd  were  playing  round  its  whole  circle 
wi(h  ^reat  magnificence  and  briUiancy.  Continually  the 
prodigio  i^  cloud  was  getting  larger  and  darker,  and  de- 
^>^onding  nearer  to  us,  so  as  powerfully  to  awaken  expec- 
tation. The  splendid  coruscations  which  played  round  its 
margin  now  ceased,  and  all  was  still.  In  an  instant  the 
forked  lightning  broke  from  the  very  centre  of  the  cloud  ; 
the  thunder,  deep  and  loud,  shook  the  earth,  and  rolled  and 
pealed  through  the  heavens  ;  the  heavy  rain  dashed  in 
unbroken  channels  to  the  ground  ;  and  the  mighty  winds 
burst  forth  in  their  fury,  and  roared  and  groaned  among 
the  giant  trees  of  the  wood.  There  were  we,  in  the 
deep  forest  and  in  the  deep  night,  and  in  the  midst  of  a 
storm,  such  as  I  had  never  witnessed.  O  it  was  grand ! 
God's  own  voice  in  God's  own  temple  !  Never  did  I 
see  so  much  of  the  poetic  truth  and  beauty  of  that  ad- 
mirable ode,  "  The  voice  of  the  Lord,"  &c. 

It  ceased  as  suddenly  as  it  began.  The  winds,  which 
bore  the  cloud  away,  left  all  behind  calm  ;  and  the  fire- 
fly, which  had  been  eclipsed  or  affrighted,  reappeared, 
and  sparkled  over  us  on  the  profound  darkness  ;  and  pres- 
ently the  stars  of  a  higher  sphere  looked  forth  benig- 
nantly  on  the  lower  elements,  and  all  was  peace. 

The  jarly  morning  found  me  still  travelling,  and  get- 
ting seriously  unwell.  I  thought  I  must  have  remained 
at  Lebanon,  a  town  about  twenty  miles  from  Cincinnati, 
to  sicken  and  suffer  without  a  friend ;  and  then  all  the 
loneliness  of  my  situation  came  over  me.  The  stage 
halted  here  an  hour  ;  this  allowed  me  some  time  to  re- 


I  '    ! 

I  ■ 
i 

: !   . 


212 


CINCINNATI. 


cover  ;  and  I  resolved,  if  it  was  possible^  to  go  forward 
to  what  I  might  regard  as  a  resting-place. 

Happily,  every  thing  was  now  improving.  The  road 
was  not  unworthy  of  M'Adam ;  and  we  bowled  over  it  at 
the  rate  of  nine  miles  an  hour.  The  country  was  cover- 
ed with  hills,  finely  wooded,  and  all  about  them  were 
spread  farms,  in  a  handsonve  and  thriving  state  of  cultiva- 
tion Many  ornamental  cottages  now  appeared,  and  the 
who.  suburbs  put  on  a  cheerful  and  beautiful  aspect ; 
so  that,  when  you  were  expecting  to  reach  the  extremity 
of  civilized  life,  every  thing  was  rising  into  higher  civi- 
lization. At  last  we  drove  into  the  western  metropolis. 
I  had  travelled  three  days  and .  nights ;  and  was  so 
wearied,  bruised,  and  hurt,  that  I  could  not,  with  com- 
fort, sit,  lie,  or  walk.  The  remainder  of  this  day  I  spent 
in  my  chamber. 

Cincinnati  is  really  worthy  to  be  styled  a  city ;  and  it 
is  a  city  "  born  in  a  day,  and  in  the  wilderness."  It 
has  a  population  of  30,000  persons,  arid  is  not  more  than 
thirty-six  years  old.  Its  streets  are  composed  of  trans- 
verse lines,  and  are  named  a  good  deal  after  the  manne; 
of  Philadelphia,  but  it  has-  none  of  its  formal  aspect. 
The  straight  lines  are  broken  by  the  undulating  surface 
of  the  ground  ;  the  aurrounding  hills  stand  up  beautifully 
at  the  head  ot  all  the  streets  ;  and  the  Ohio  runs  off  fine- 
ly at  its  feet.  There  are  several  good  streets;  some  en- 
livened by  business,  and  others  ornamented  by  comfort- 
able dwellings  and  the  spreading  acacia ;  but  there  are 
no  very  striking  objects. 

Some  of  the  churches  are  good,  but  not  remarkable^ 
except  the  old  Presbyterian  Church  in  the  main  street,, 
which  is  large  and  Butch-built,  with  a  bsick  face,  with 
two  brick  towers  projecting  on  it,  which  towers  have 
turrets  as  heavy  as  themselves,  and  which  turrets  are 
chiefly  remarkable  for  two  dials  which  exactly  agree. 
When  I  saw  them  they  both  wanted  three  minutes  to  six, 
and  I  doubt  not  if  I  could  see  them  now  they  still  want 
just  three  minutes  to  six.  Besides  this,  there  is,  as  it  is 
called,.  **Trollope's  Folly,."  an  erection  in,  wliich  that 


lady,  thi 

tainly  d 

number 

it  should 

Tempers 

heve  the 

While 

fell  in  w 

disposal, 

reception 

ing  that '. 

posed  th 

two  mile 

well  as  1 

myself  o 

guest  of 

It  hapj 

anniversa 

day  kept 

portunity 

evening  g 

of  firearn 

young  me 

miniature 

platform. 

an  Oratio 

Thegr 

to  meet, 

join  in  a 

cedence, 

no  easy  a 

on  this  SI 

them.     1 

the  coope 

porary  sti 

at  their  b 

so  emplo; 

they  mad 

sixty  in  i 


FOURTH    OF    JULY. 


113 


lady,  thus  complimented,  exhausted  her  means,  and  cer- 
tainly did  not  show  her  taste.  I  was  struck  by  the 
number  of  barbers'  shops  and  groceries,  or  grogshops  ; 
it  should  seem  that  no  man  here  shaves  himself,  and  that 
Temperance  has  not  yet  fulfilled  its  commission.  I  be- 
heve  there  are  not  less  than  200  grogstores  in  Cincinnati. 

While  I  was  seeking  for  my  friend,  Mr.  Brainard,  I 
fell  in  with  Dr.  Beecher,  who  insisted  on  my  being  at  his 
disposal,  and  immediately  found  for  me  a  very  friendly 
reception  in  a  family  resident  in  the  town  ;  but  consider- 
ing that  I  should  have  a  better  chance  of  health,  he  pro- 
posed that  I  should  go  with  him  to  the  Walnut  Hills, 
two  miles  distant.  For  the  reason  kindly  named,  as 
well  as  for  the  pleasure  of  enjoying  his  society,  I  availed 
myself  of  the  proposal,  and  became,  during  my  stay,  the 
guest  of  his  family. 

It  happened  that  I  was  here  on  the  4th  of  July,  the 
anniversary  of  the  Independence  ;  almost  the  only  holy- 
day  kept  in  America ;  and  I  was  glad  to  have  a  good  op- 
portunity of  witnessing  its  observance.  The  previous 
evening  gave  note  of  preparation  by  the  continued  report 
of  firearms  and  small  guns.  In  the  early  morning  the 
young  men  met  at  the  Mechanics'  Institute,  to  enact  in 
miniature  what  their  fathers  were  to  perform  on  a  larger 
platform.  There  was  an  Ode,  and  the  Declaration,  and 
an  Oration,  and  Yankee  Doodle. 

The  grand  fete  came  afterward.  All  the  trades  were 
to  meet,  and  go  in  procession  to  the  Fourth  Church,  to 
join  in  a  semi-religious  service.  The  question  of  pre- 
cedence, however,  here  as  elsewhere,  is  found  to  be  of 
no  easy  solution  ;  and  some  of  the  companies,  in  dudgeon 
on  this  subject,  had  refused  to  take  the  place  assigned  to 
them.  There  were  the  butchers,  and  the  carpenters,  and 
the  coopers,  and  few  besides.  The  coopers  had  a  tem- 
porary stage,  and  as  they  were  drawn  along  they  wrought 
at  their  business.  The  butchers,  who  could  not  well  be 
so  employed,  were  at  liberty  to  display  themselves,  and 
they  mad^^e  most  of  it  in  their  way.  They  were  full 
sixty  in  number,  and  were  all  mounted  on  good  steedf . 

10* 


1    I 


114 


FOtRTH   OF  SVLY. 


■  ■  hi- 


Some  decorations  were  given  to  the  horse,  but  lam.y 
more  to  the  man.  It  was  a  sight,  to  see  these  men 
dressed  out  in  purple  and  fine  linen.  They  all  had  fine 
frocks  on,  some  muslin ;  ornamented  by  silk  sash,  and 
scarf,  and  rosettes.  These,  with  the  usual  accompani< 
ments  of  a  band'  of  music,  and  showy  colours  waving  in 
the  air,  with  the  insignia  of  the  company  on  them,  to- 
gether with  the  hoiyday  dresses  of  the  spectators  wha 
lined  the  pathway,  composed  the  exhibition,  and  gave  it 
a  cheerful  character. 

As  the  service  was  to  be  at  Dr.  Beecher's  church,  he 
was  the  chaplain  for  the  occasion.  I  went  with  him  ta 
secure  a  good'  sitting  ;  but  declined  going  into  the  pulpit, 
or  engaging  in  the  exercise,  for  obvious  reasons.  The 
spectacle  wais  singular  for  a  place  of  worship.  There 
were  in  th«  pulpit,  the  chaplain,  the  reader  of  the  Dec- 
laration in  a  fustian  jacket,  and  the  oiaXor.  On  their 
tight  and  left  were  seated  the  ensigns,  bearing  the  nation- 
al colours ;  and  beyond  these  were  resting  the  flags  of  the 
several  trades.  The  companies  occupied  a  large  portion 
of  the  area,  and  the  band  possessed  the  gallery.  The 
ehurch  was  quite  full. 

A  national  air  was  played  by  the  band.  An  ode  was 
then  sung  by  the  choir,  sustained  by  instruments.  Dr, 
Beecher  offered  prayer.  Then  came  the  Declaration. 
It  was  read  by  a  tradesman,  who  looked  intelligent ;  but 
he  read  badly,  and  what  was  worse,  rather  bitterly  ;  and 
m  trying  to  give  those  terms  which  hit  the  Father  Land 
a  hard  and  angry  expression,  he  contorted  his  face  so  as 
to  be  very  ridiculous.  Another  ode  followed.  Then 
the  Oration.  It  was  written ;  but  freely  delivered.  It 
showed  good  parts,  manly  thinking,  and  was,  on  the 
whole,  composed  in  good  taste.  There  was  a  reference 
to  the  past ;  a  tribute  to  our  common  fathers  ;  a  eulogy 
on  the  constitution  ;  a  warning  on  the  danger  of  disunibn, 
on  the  one  hand,  and  consolidation  on  the  other ;  and, 
finally,  an  apostrophe  to  La  Fayette.  It  was  national, 
but  not  prejudiced.  Dr.  Beecher  admitted  that  they 
seldom,  on  these  occasioned,  had  any  thing  so  good.   The 


POtTRTlI    OF  JULV. 


U& 


lese  men 
had  fine 
sash,  and 
icompani* 
vaving  in 
them,  to- 
tors  who- 
i  gave  it 

lurch,  he 
th  him  ta 
he  pulpit, 
IS.  The 
.  There 
the  Dec- 
On  their 
le  nation* 
gs  of  the 
e  portion 
y.     The 

ode  wa» 
its.  Dr. 
;laration. 
ent;  but 
rly ;  and 
ler  Land 
ce  so  as 
.  Then 
red.     It 

on  the 
bference 

eulogy 
isunibn, 
ir;  and, 
lational, 
at  they 
d.   The 


Ode,  "  Glory  to  God  on  high,"  &c.,  the  music  by  Mozart, 
followed,  and  the  exercises  closed  by  a  short  prayer. 

There  was  in  the  novelty  of  this  service  some  gratifi' 
cation  ;  and  in  its  substance,  I  found  no  cause  of  offence. 
For  the  Declaration,  I  knew  its  contents,  and  prepared 
my  nerves  for  invectives  which  were,  perhaps,  natural  at 
the  time  they  were  written ;  and  for  my  good  friend,  Mr. 
Churchman,  the  reader,  I  could  not  smile  and  be  unkind 
I  confess,  to  speak  seriously,  and  to  give  you,  as  I  al- 
ways seek  to  do,  first  impressions,  I  was  somewhat  start- 
led at  the  extraordinary  mixture  of  the  secular  and  the 
spiritual ;  and  it  was  a  question  whether  the  tendency 
was  not  to  make  religion  worldly,  rather  than  the  world- 
ly religious.  But  when  I  reflect  on  the  improved  char- 
acter given  to  these  occasions  by  not  abandoning  them  to 
the  irreligious,  I  am  disposed  to  think  that  the  ministers 
and  friends  of  religion  are  acting  a  wise  part  in  employ- 
ing that  degree  of  influence  which  they  can  legitimately 
exert  in  its  favour.  Nor  if  one  could  have  all  one 
wished,  would  I  desire,  as  some  do,  to  make  the  exer- 
cises of  such  a  day  purely  religious.  Our  true  wisdom, 
in  consulting  the  good  of  the  people,  lies,  not  in  exclu- 
ding their  secular  concerns  and  pleasures  from  religion, 
but  in  diffusing  religion  through  the  whole  of  them. 

There  is  one  thing,  however,  that  may  justly  claim  the 
calm  consideration  of  a  great  and  generous  people.  Now 
th&t  half  a  century  has  passed  away,  is  it  necessary  to 
the  pleasures  of  this  day  to  revive  feelings  in  the  children 
which,  if  they  were  found  in  the  parent,  were  to  be  ex- 
cused only  by  the  extremities  to  which  they  were  press- 
ed 1  Is  it  generous,  now  that  they  have  achieved  the 
victory,  not  to  forgive  the  adversary  ?  Is  it  manly,  now 
that  they  have  nothing  to  fear  from  Britain,  to  indulge  in 
expressions  of  hate  and  vindictiveness,  which  are  the 
proper  language  of  fear  ?  Would  there  be  less  patriotism 
because  there  was  more  charity  ?  America  should  feel 
that  her  destinies  are  high  and  peculiar.  She  should 
■corn  the  patriotism  which  cherishes  the  love  of  one's 
own  country  by  the  hatred  of  all  others.    This  would  be 


f 


T 


116 


LANE    SEMINARY. 


\ 


-\X 


to  forego  her  vocation ;  and  to  follow  vicious  examples, 
which  have  already  filled  the  world  with  war  and  blood- 
shed. She  should  carry  out  her  sympathy  to  all  men, 
and  become  the  resolved  and  noble  advocate  of  universal 
freedom  and  universal  peace.  O,  how  would  the  birth- 
day of  her  own  Uberties  be  hallowed  and  blessed  if  it 
were  devoted  with  wisdom  and  ardour  to  such  an  issue  ! 

On  the  day  succeeding  the  anniversary  I  was  taken 
unwell,  and  confined  to  the  house  for  three  days.  My 
journey  might  have  accounted  for  this  ;  but  I  ascribe  it 
also,  in  a  measure,  to  the  atmosphere.  This  city,  from 
all  appearances,  ought  to  be  very  healthy ;  there  is  rea- 
son, however,  to  think  that  the  immense  forest  prepares 
for  it  a  peculiar  atmosphere,  which,  at  this  season  of  the 
year  especially,  is  dangerous  to  strangers,  and  trying  to 
all.  Dr.  Beecher  and  all  his  family  had  the  fever  on  ar- 
riving here.  For  me,  my  indisposition  was  light,  and  it 
was  made  the  lighter  by  the  kind  attentions  of  the  family 
which  had  received  me  to  its  bosom,  and  of  Dr.  Drake, 
an  excellent  physician  of  the  place,  who  obligingly  in- 
sisted on  my  acceptance  of  his  services. 

On  the  Monday  I  was  so  far  better  that  I  could  go  to 
town  and  attend  an  Association  of  Ministers.  I  had 
some  interesting  conveisation  with  them.  The  subject 
of  slavery  came  under  discussion,  and  I  trust  not  unprof- 
itably.  I  afterward  had  considerable  communications 
vrith  Dr.  Beecher  on  that  subject ;  and  we  agreed  to  re- 
new it,  and  with  others,  when  we  should  meet  in  New- 
England.  In  the  evening  of  this  day  I  was  to  attend  a 
concert  for  prayer,  and  to  address  the  congregation ;  but 
a  thunder-storm  came  on,  and  prevented  the  service  al- 
together. The  thunder  here,  you  must  still  remember, 
is  not  "  our  thunder,"  nor  the  lightning  "  our  hghtning  ;" 
and  it  is  not  less  frequent  than  it  is  awful.  I  had  been 
t  ten  days  in  Ohio,  and  this  was  the  seventh  storm. 

The  next  day  I  was  to  proceed  on  my  way.  In  the 
morning  I  visited  the  Lane  Seminary,  and  at  the  request 
of  the  professors,  addressed  the  students.  We  had  a 
pleasant  devotioral  exercise.    There  were  about  sixty 


students 
receive  o 
labour  in 
hereafter 
Before 
together, 
said,  tha 
it  is ;  bu 
people,  a 
markably 
about;    1, 
nearly  al 
there  are 
good  siz( 
30,000, 
may  be  t 
for  the  e: 
There 
with  an  i 
domestic 
not  equa 
lies,  and 
art  and  s 
a  "  Sciei 
a  circula 
out  end. 
and  eve 
regard  it 
ment. 
mark  as 
old,  spei 
know,  C 
«  Silly  ? 
live  to  1 
a  very  i 
Ifth( 
here,  ar 
found  ii 
class  ol 


SERVANTS. 


117 


examples, 
nd  blood- 
all  men, 
universal 
the  birth- 
issed  if  it 
an  issue  ! 
ras  taken 
lys.     My 
iscribe  it 
ity,  from 
e  is  rea- 
prepares 
an  of  the 
trying  to 
er  on  ar- 
it,  and  it 
le  family 
r.  Drake, 
ngly  in- 

ild  go  to 
I  had 
subject 
unprof- 
lications 
d  to  re- 
n  New- 
ittend  a 
on;  but 
•vice  al- 
nember, 
itning ;" 
ad  been 

• 

In  the 
request 
»  had  a 
It  sixty 


students  and  several  visiters  present.  The  college  will 
receive  one  hundred,  and  it  is  nearly  full.  It  is  a  manual 
labour  institution,  and  I  shall  refer  to  it  in  this  character 
hereafter. 

Before  I  quit  this  place,  let  me  throw  a  few  particulars 
together.  You  may  have  concluded,  from  what  I  have 
said,  that  religion  is  in  a  low  state  here.  In  one  sense 
it  is ;  but,  when  you  consider  the  rapid  increase  of  the 
people,  and  the  character  of  that  increase,  it  is  in  a  re- 
markably advanced  state.  The  population  has  grown  at 
aboui;  1,000  per  year;  and  this  great  influx  has  been 
nearly  all  of  a  worldly  and  unpromising  nature.  Yet 
there  are  twenty-one  places  of  worship,  and  they  are  of 
good  size  arid  well  attended.  When  it  is  said  that  of 
30,000,  4,000  are  Catholics,  mostly  Irish  CathoUcs,  it 
may  be  thought,  without  a  breach  of  charity,  to  account 
for  the  existence  of  many  low  groceries. 

There  is  a  great  spirit  of  enterprise  in  this  town  ;  and, 
with  an  ardent  pursuit  of  business,  there  is  a  desire  for 
domestic  comfort,  and  a  thirst  for  scientiiic  improvement, 
not  equalled  in  such  circumstances.  They  have  libra- 
ries, and  good  reading  societies  ;  they  have  lectures  on 
art  and  science,  which  are  well  attended.  They  sustain 
a  "  Scientific  Quarterly  and  a  Monthly  Magazine,"  with 
a  circulation  of  4,000 ;  and  they  have  newspapers  with- 
out end.  Education  is  general  here  ;  the  young  people, 
and  even  the  children,  appear  to  appreciate  it.  They 
regard  it  as  the  certain  and  necessary  means  of  advance- 
ment. I  overheard  two  fine  children,  in  the  street,  re- 
mark as  follows.  The  younger  one,  about  nine  years 
old,  speaking  of  her  sister,  said,  with  concern,  "  Do  you 
know,  Caroline  says  she  will  not  go  to  school  any  more  !'* 
"  Silly  girl !"  replied  the  elder,  about  thirteen ;  "  she  will 
live  to  repent  of  that !"  It  must  be  admitted  that  this  is 
a  very  wholesome  state  of  feeling. 

If  there  be  a  real  inconvenience  in  the  state  of  society 
here,  and  throughout  this  region,  it  is  undoubtedly  to  be 
found  in  the  want  of  good  servants.  There  is  no  such 
class  of  servants  as  there  is  in  Europe.     If  any  give 


I 


^'  i 


118 


SERVANTS. 


1 1-  i 


Mi 


themselves  to  it,  they  consider  it  is  only  for  a  short  time ; 
all  this  short  time  they  are  disposed  to  scorn  the  duties 
of  their  vocation,  and  are  eagerly  looking  to  something 
better.  Hence  it  is  that  there  are  few  servants ;  that 
they  demand  high  wages;  that  they  afford  but  little 
*'  help,"  and  give  less  satisfaction.  Two  dollars  a  week 
are  commonly  given  here  for  a  female  help  ;  and  a  lady 
of  this  city  told  me  that,  in  twelve  months,  ten  persons 
were  in  one  situation.  It  was  not  uncommon  for  them 
to  disappear  from  the  family  either  in  the  early  morning 
or  the  evening,  without  the  least  notice.  On  these  ac- 
counts, the  mistress  of  the  family  does  more  than  with 
us  ;  and  establishments  that  would  seem  to  require  three 
servants,  a^-e  often  found  only  with  one. 

Much  has  been  said,  and  with  some  ill-nature,  on  the 
circumstances  of  the  servants  claiming  to  sit  at  the  same 
table  with  the  family.  It  should  be  observed,  in  the  first 
place,  that  this  is  no  more  true  of  the  principal  towns  and 
cities  of  America,  where  wealth  and  occupation  have 
created  distinctions  of  classes,  than  it  is  with  ourselves  ; 
and  that  it  should  occur  in  the  newly-settled  and  farming 
districts,  where  all  are  of  one  class,  cannot  be  deemed 
remarkable,  unless  we  unwisely  judge  of  it  through  the 
prejudiced  medium  of  our  own  conventional  habits.  If 
a  young  woman  engages  herself  to  help  a  tradesman's 
wife,  she  is  the  daughter  of  a  man  who  lives  on  his  own 
farm  in  the  vicinity,  and  who  is  equal  to  the  tradesman. 
The  only  difference  is,  the  one  has  land,  and  the  other 
ready  money ;  and  the  girl  seeks  to  obtain  some  money, 
either  to  improve  her  education  or  her  dress,  or,  as  she 
hopes,  perhaps,  to  prepare  for  her  wedding.  If  a  youth 
engages  to  work  at  a  farm,  he  is  most  likely  the  son  of 
a  neighbouring  farmer,  who  has  more  children  than  the 
one  who  engages  him,  and  he  is  equal  with  the  family  he 
enters,  both  in  rank  and  in  employment.  Would  it  not 
be  absurd,  in  such  a  state  of  society,  when  equality  pre- 
vails in  every  other  particular,  to  create,  at  the  social 
board,  an  invidious  and  artificial  distinction  ?  We  all  re- 
member the  time  when,  with  real  distinctions  between 


master 
place  i 
we  ma 
of  eith 
As, 
may  a 
occur 
rapid 
those  w 
anti-Pr( 
so  desi 
erected 
There 
ment. 

Some 

religious 

Zanesvi 

and   it 

second 

GranvilL 

religious 

made  by 

On  arrivi 

that  they 

in  the  w 

first,  they 

the  first 

for  divin 

pious  ma 

and  there 

1,000  do] 

man,  whc 

of  fire-ir( 

dollars  a 

is  a  devo 

flock.     S 

might  be 

He  meet 

for  instri 


GRANVILLE. 


119 


kort  time ; 
he  duties 
omething 
nts ;  that 
but  little 
s  a  week 
id  a  lady 
L  persons 
for  them 
'  morning 
these  ac- 
;han  with 
uire  three 

re,  on  the 
the  same 
n  the  first 
owns  and 
tion  have 
mrselves ; 
id  farming 
e  deemed 
rough  the 
bits.     If 
idesman's 
his  own 
adesman. 
the  other 
money, 
,  as  she 
a  youth 
le  son  of 
than  the 
"amily  he 
d  it  not 
ility  pre- 
le  social 
Ve  all  re- 
between 


master  and  man,  the  servants  on  our  farms  claimed  their 
place  in  the  comman  hall,  and  at  the  common  table  ;  and 
we  may  well  question  whether  the  interests  or  happiness 
of  either  party  have  been  advanced  since  the  alteration. 

As,  in  leaving  this  city,  I  shall  also  leave  the  State,  I 
may  as  well  set  down  any  closing  observations  that 
occur  to  me.  There  are  in  Ohio,  notwithstanding  its 
rapid  progress,  not  less  than  500  ministers ;  excepting 
those  who  may,  in  different  places,  advocate  heretical  or 
anti-Protestant  opinions.  The  people,  in  many  parts,  are 
so  desirous  of  the  means  of  religion,  that  they  have 
erected  the  little  church,  and  have  to  wait  for  the  pastor. 
There  are,  at  least,  iwenty  places  now  in  this  predica> 
ment. 

Some  of  the  new-made  towns  present  a  delightfully 
religious  aspect.  Of  these  I  might  name  Columbus, 
Zanesville,  and  Granville.  The  first  has  3,000  persons, 
and  it  has  three  churches  and  five  ministers.  The 
second  has  3,200  persons,  and  six  churches.  And 
Granville  is  a  small  town,  which,  I  believe,  is  wholly 
religious.  As  a  settlement,  it  deserves  notice.  It  was 
made  by  a  party  of  ninety  persons  from  New-England. 
On  arriving  at  this  spot,  they  gave  themselves  to  prayer, 
that  they  might  be  directed  in  choosing  their  resting-place 
in  the  wilderness,  and  enjoy  the  blessing  of  God.  At 
first,  they  rested  with  their  little  ones  in  the  wagons ;  and 
the  first  permanent  building  they  erected  was  a  church 
for  divine  worship.  The  people  retv-iu  the  simple  and 
pious  manners  of  their  fathers.  They  all  go  to  church, 
and  there  are  400  in  a  state  of  communion.  They  give 
1,000  dollars  a  year  to  religious  institutions.  One  plain 
man,  who  has  never  allowed  himself  the  luxury  of  a  set 
of  fire-irons,  besides  what  he  does  at  home,  gives  100 
dollars  a  year  to  religious  objects.  The  present  pastor 
is  a  devoted  man,  and  very  prosperous  in  the  care  of  his 
flock.  Some  of  his  little  methods  are  peculiar,  and 
might  be  either  objectionable  or  impracticable  elsewhere. 
He  meets  his  people  in  districts,  once  a  week,  in  turn, 
for  instruction.     He  keeps  an  alphabetical  list  of  the 


II 


f-i 


120 


SAIL   TO   LOUISVILLE. 


members  ;  and  places  each  name  opposite  a  day  of  the 
month  throughout  the  year;  and  on  that  day  all  the 
church  are  to  pray  for  that  member.  He  has  overseers 
in  the  districts,  who  are  to  make  an  entry  of  all  points 
of  conduct,  under  separate  heads,  during  the  year ;  and 
to  furnish  a  full  report  to  him  at  its  close.  This  report, 
and  the  names  of  the  parties,  he  reads  from  the  pulpit, 
with  rebuke  or  commendation,  and  the  year  begins 
afresh.  Every  one  knows,  therefore,  that  he  is  subject 
to  report;  and,  in  a  small  community,  where  there  is 
neither  power  nor  will  to  resist,  it  must  act  as  a  strong 
restraint.  Of  course,  the  drunkard,  the  fornicator,  the 
Sabbath-breaker,  are  not  found  here ;  and,  what  is  yet 
better,  on  the  last  report  there  was  only  one  family  that 
had  not  domestic  worship. 


LETTER  XII. 


Mv  DEAR  Friend, 

After  meeting  the  students  and  professors  of  Lane 
Seminary,  on  the  morning  of  the  8th  of  July,  I  went  to 
town  with  Dr.  Beecher,  in  search  of  a  boat  to  Louisville. 
There  are  usually  ten  or  twelve  steamboats  lying  off  the 
quay ;  and  there  was  one  that  would  start  in  the  after- 
noon. I  caught  a  dinner  at  a  hospitable  table,  took 
leave  of  my  kind  friends,  and  went  on  board.  These 
vessels  are  well  adapted  to  the  rivers  they  have  to  navi- 
gate ;  and  mostly  offer  more  accommodations  to  the  pas- 
senger than  can  be  granted  when  exposed  to  more 
troubled  waters.  The  cabins  being  erected  above  the 
hulk  of  the  vessel,  is  a  decided  advantage  in  light  and 
ventilation ;  and  especially  valuable  in  the  hot  seasons, 
as  no  places  are  so  hot  as  the  bosoms  of  these  rivers. 

I  had  a  nice  little  state-room  to  myself,  with  lock  and 
key ;  and  our  company  was  small,  and  none  of  it  dis- 


LoriSVILLE. 


121 


lay  of  the 
ly  all  the 
overseers 
all  points 
^ear ;  and 
his  report, 
the  pulpit, 
ar  begins 
is  subject 
e  there  is 
s  a  strong 
icator,  the 
irhat  is  yet 
family  that 


rs  of  Lane 
I  went  to 
Louisville, 
ing  off  the 
the  after- 
able,  took 
1.  These 
re  to  navi- 
:o  the  pas- 
[  to  more 
above  the 
1  light  and 
)t  seasons, 
>  rivers. 
1  lock  and 
i  of  it  dis- 


agreeable. But  there  were  some  deductions.  The 
weather  was  very  hot,  ranging  from  90^^  to  94°.  The 
cholera  had  prevailed,  and  raged  in  some  places  on  these 
rivers,  and  had  caused  them  to  be  nearly  deserted.  The 
disease  was  certainly  in  Cincinnati,  and  the  apprehension 
of  it  was  evidently  on  most  of  the  passengers.  Our 
vessel,  which  in  ordinary  circumstances  would,  I  sup- 
pose, have  carried  some  150  persons,  now  had  only 
seven  ;  one  of  the  seven  was  a  lady,  and  she  sickened 
from  fear.  Depression  and  nausea  still  attended  me ; 
but,  as  the  evening  was  fine  and  the  temperature  not  so 
high,  I  sat  out  on  the  deck,  and  did  pretty  well. 

I  had  now  a  fair  sight  of  the  Ohio ;  and  it  is  worthy, 
fully  worthy,  of  its  French  name.  La  Belle  Riviere.  It 
has  a  quick  current,  and  is  subject  to  great  variations. 
It  will  rise  and  fall  from  forty  to  sixty  feet.  Where  the 
eye  is  shut  up  to  a  near  view,  its  precipitous  and  rugged 
banks,  its  turbid  waters,  its  abundant  driftwood,  its  up- 
rooted trees,  and  its  dark,  over-hanging  forests,  give  to  it 
an  air  of  desolate  grandeur.  But,  more  frequently  here, 
it  runs  in  serpentine  Unes ;  appears  to  the  sight  a  suc- 
cession of  beautiful  small  lakes ;  spreads  open  before 
you  the  distant  prospects,  and  offers  to  your  admiration 
most  exquisite  hill  and  river  scenery,  dwelling  in  the 
brightest  and  softest  colours.  It  is  certainly  the  finest 
river  of  America.  The  Mississippi  has  more  hold  on 
the  imagination,  but  not  half  so  much  on  the  eye. 

About  noon  on  the  following  day  we  reached  Louis- 
ville, having  made  a  trip  of  150  miles.  I  instantly 
found,  on  landing,  that  we  had  indeed  entered  a  slave 
State.  A  man  of  colour  had  offered  himself  to  take  my 
luggage  and  guide  me  to  the  inn.  He  was  running  his 
light  barrow  before  me  on  a  rough  pathway.  "  Remem- 
ber, Jacob,"  said  a  severe  voice,  "  there  are  twenty-one 
stripes  for  you — twenty-one  stripes,  Jacob  !"  I  asked 
an  explanation.  He  said  he  was  liable  to  punishment 
for  wheeling  on  the  path.  The  person  who  threatened 
him  was  a  colonel,  and  I  believe  a  magistrate ;  and  poot 
Jacob  was  evidently  concerned  at  being  detected  by  him^ 

Vol.  I.— F  11 


f  I 

■  1 


123 


M08C1IET0   NET. 


t 

i 


I  '  i 


for,  he  said,  he  owed  him  a  grudge.  I  do  not  answer 
for  the  correctness  of  Jacob's  statement ;  I  merely  report 
what  occurred. 

On  arriving  at  my  hotel,  I  found  its  master,  Mr. 
Throckmorton,  who  is  a  colonel  as  well  as  a  tavern- 
keeper,  busily  engaged  in  making  and  distributing  his 
mint-julap.  It  is  a  favourite  mixture  of  spirits,  mint, 
sugar,  and  water,  and  he  has  a  high  character  for  the 
just  incorporation  of  the  ingredients.  Others  were 
making  a  free  and  dangerous  use  of  iced  water,  a  luxury 
which  is  provided  in  great  abundance  throughout  the 
States.  Indeed,  the  disposition  to  drink  now  became  in- 
tense— we  had  only  to  consider  how  we  might  safely 
gratify  it.  The  thermometer  rose  this  day  to  100°,  and 
the  heat  and  perspiration  were  intolerable.  I  was  com- 
pelled to  relieve  myself  of  my  upper  garments  ;  to  throw 
myself  on  a  naked  mattress ;  and  with  the  windows 
open,  and  remaining  perfectly  still,  the  perspiration  rose 
on  my  skin  in  globes,  collected  in  my  hair,  and  coursed 
down  my  face  and  hands.  The  discomfort  is  unspeak- 
able. Every  thing  you  have  on  feels  wet ;  and  if  you 
change  your  cravat  and  shirt,  they  become  quickly  like 
wet  rags  hanging  about  you.  You  wonder,  at  first,  to 
see  the  men  and  boys  without  cravats,  auu  without  either 
waistcoat  or  coat,  and  wearing  rrostly  white  linen ;  but 
when  you  really  get  at  this  temperature  you  understand 
it  all.  This  was  the  hottest  week  we  had ;  many  per- 
sons were  said  to  have  died  on  the  public  ways,  and 
twenty-five  persons  died  at  New- York  from  drinking 
cold  water. 

I  used  here,  for  the  first  time,  the  moscheto  bar,  as  it 
is  called ;  and  it  was  not  before  it  was  needed.  It  is  a 
gauze-like  curtain,  made  to  enclose  completely  every  side 
of  the  bed.  I  thought  it  would  produce,  in  hot  weather, 
the  sense  of  suffocation,  but  this  is  not  the  effect.  On 
the  contrary,  when  you  really  know  what  the  bite  of  this 
insect  is,  and  hear  it  singing  about  your  bed,  while  it  is 
unable  to  reach  you,  you  have  a  grateful  sense  of  secu- 
rity from  your  enemy.     On  the  whole,  I  suffered  but  lit- 


SLAVES. 


123 


t  answer 
sly  report 

ster,  Mr. 
a  tavern- 
uting  his 
its,  mint, 
3r  for  the 
rs  were 
a  luxury 
hout  the 
jcame  in- 
ht  safely 
00°,  Pnd 
vas  com- 
to  throw 
windows 
tion  rose 
i  coursed 
unspeak- 
[id  if  you 
ckly  like 
first,  to 
)ut  either 
len;  but 
derstand 
any  per- 
ays;  and 
drinking 

par,  as  it 
It  is  a 
ery  side 
weather, 
ct.  On 
of  this 
hile  it  is 
of  secu- 
i  but  lit- 


tle from  this  source  of  annoyance  ;  the  common  fly  was 
a  much  greater  evil,  it  is  in  such  al)undance,  and  is  so 
much  more  obtrusive.  It  frequently  biles  and  settles  on 
your  person  and  food  in  a  very  tormenting  way.  The 
refectories,  in  consequence,  are  provided  with  largo  fans, 
which  are  hung  over  the  tables  on  pivots,  and  are  con- 
nected by  cords  and  pulleys,  so  that  they  may  be  worked 
by  a  little  slave  during  the  period  of  meals. 

The  accommodations  given  to  the  slaves  now  camo 
under  my  notice.  Where  the  family  is  of  any  consider- 
ation, they  have  usually  a  distinct,  though  attached,  dwel- 
ling. At  our  hotel,  they  had  at  the  end  of  the  court- 
yard a  large  house,  for  they  were  numerous.  The 
house,  however,  had  but  few  rooms,  and  there  were 
several  beds  in  each  room,  so  as  to  show  that  they  were 
crowded,  and  that  their  habits  of  life  were  not  very 
favourable  to  its  decencies.  I  was  struck  too,  perhaps 
the  more,  because  I  had  just  travelled  through  Ohio,  with 
the  attentions  these  people  offer  you.  They  are  trained 
to  do  more  for  you  than  others,  and  they  mostly  do  it 
with  a  readiness  which  shows  kindness  of  heart.  This 
certainly  affords  you  personal  gratification,  and  it  is  only 
checked  when  it  is  remembered  that  it  is  the  price  of 
liberty,  or  when  it  approaches  to  the  tameness  of  sub- 
serviency. 

It  became  necessary  for  me  now  to  determine  on  my 
course.  My  considerate  friends  at  Cincinnati  had  re- 
quired a  promise  that  I  would  not  go  farther  by  water. 
I  found  that  to  go  to  St.  Louis,  and  accomplish  my 
objects,  would  consume  a  fortnight  of  my  time,  which 
was  more  than  I  could  spare.  Besides  this,  I  was  still 
much  indisposed,  and  disease  was  prevaihng  in  these 
regions.  I  determined,  therefore,  to  quit  the  vicinage  of 
the  livers,  and  make  my  way  across  Kentucky,  in  an 
easterly  direction,  towards  Virginia, 

On  the  following  morning  I  left  for  Lexington.  I  in- 
quired when  the  stage  would  start.  "  O,  between  day- 
break and  sunrise,"  was  the  reply.  "And  when  is 
that  1"—"  0,  between  four  and  five  o'clock."     So  that  I 

F3 


I   I 


124 


SE^iJVVILLE. 


i  * 


was  obliged  to  be  ready  at  four,  and  we  did  not  start  till 
half  past  five.  The  morning  was  cool,  though  the  pre 
vious  day  had  been  so  hot.  I  was  refreshed  by  the  air, 
and  got  ready  for  breakfast.  Accommodations  were 
made  for  us  in  a  very  primitive  cabin,  and  in  a  very 
primitive  sty.'e.  Wo  had,  however,  a  large  supply — 
milk,  eggs,  coffee,  and  hot  corn-bread,  and  all  was  good 
and  clean.  The  husband  and  wife  presided  at  each  ex- 
tremity of  the  table,  making  us  welcome,  not  indeed  with 
kind  words  and  smiling  faces,  but  with  a  considerate  re- 
gard to  our  wants. 

Soon  after  breakfast  we  passed  through  Sclbyville,  a 
stirring,  busy  village,  at  which  there  had  recently  been 
a  considerable  revival.     We  took  in  here  a  Mr.  Frankhn, 
who  was  much  disposed  to  conversation,  and  who  really 
had  much  to  communicate.     He  had  been  the  longest 
settled  in  that  region.     His  father  came  with  him  when 
a  child,  and  was  employed  by  Government  to  survey  and 
let  the  land.     He  was  shot  by  the  Indians  in  the  very 
act  of  surveying  ;  they  could  bear  any  thing  better  than 
to  see  the  lands  enclosed.     He  referred  me  also  to  an 
old  man  in  the  village,  who  had  killed  six  Indians  in  one 
affray.     One  would  think  he  had  killed  them  all;  for 
they  have  all  disappeared,  and  the  land  is  all  settled  and 
generally  in  good  keeping.     It  is  worth,  on  an  average, 
twenty  dollars  an  acre  ;  and,  as  he  remarked,  it  is  cheaper 
now  than  when  it  was  bought  at  two  dollars,  considering 
the   labour,  and  blood,  and   hazard  which  it  had  cost. 
The  change  was  very  great  to  his  mind,  and  he  delighted 
to  dwell  on  it ;  but  it  was  not  always  with  congratula- 
tion.    Even  of  these  primitive  and  rude  settlers  around 
him,  he  was  disposed  to  take  up  the  old  complaint  of  de- 
generacy.    "O,  sir!"  he  would  exclaim,  "the  men  are 
nothing,  the  women  nothing  now  to  what  they  used  to 
be.     I  can  recollect  when  the  women  would  do  more 
than  the  men  do  now.      Every  Saturday  they  devoted  to 
firing  at  a  mark  ;  and  they  could  handle  a  musket  with 
the  best  of  us." 

We  dined  at  a  tavern,  which  is  also  a  posthouse,  and 


is  kept  b 
much  of 
for  his  pr 
about  pol 
that  ho  I 
houses  h 
tion.  (/( 
marked, 
no  less  1 
tlie  post-l 
connexioi 
throughoi 

Early 
were  told 
morning, 
deemed  < 
and  I  mi 
a  less  int 

Frankf 
banks  of 
some  hill 
plain  whi 
the  luxuri 
pastoral  i 
quantity 
really  se( 
have  one 
the  street 
sweet  br 
frequentl; 
with  the 

All  th 
moving  i 
commoda 
two  scho 
The  boy 
Americai 
the  desk 
There  w 


ot  start  till 
h  the  pre 
by  the  air, 
ions  were 
in  a  very 
supply — 
was  good 
I  each  ex- 
deed  with 
derate  re- 

byville,  a 
ntly  been 
Franklin, 
vho  really 
le  longest 
lim  when 
urvey  and 
the  very 
etter  than 
ilso  to  an 
ns  in  one 
1  all;  for 
Jttled  and 
I  average, 
s  cheaper 
nsidering 
bad  cost, 
delighted 
ngratula- 
s  around 
int  of  de- 
men  are 
r  used  to 
do  more 
3voted  to 
jket  with 

•use,  and 


PllANKFonT. 


125 


is  kept  by  "  a  'squire."  Tlui  'siiuiro,  however,  was  not 
much  of  the  gentleman ;  he  made  a  very  sorry  provision 
for  his  passengers,  and  blustered  with  them  a  good  deal 
about  politics.  My  coniparuon  took  occasion  to  remark, 
that  ho  had  been  put  in  '  »r  the  pur[)08C,  and  that  post- 
houses  had  been  needlessly  multiplied  with  this  inten- 
tion. C^ertainly  the  number  is  enormous ;  and  he  re- 
marked, that  between  Louisville  and  Orleans  there  are 
no  less  than  l5JG:  you  must  not  connect  in  your  ideas 
the  post-horse  with  tlie  posthouse,  for  here  they  have  no 
connexion.  JJy-the-by,  there  is  no  auch  thing  as  posting 
throughout  the  States. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  we  arrived  at  Frankfort,  and 
were  told  that  we  should  go  no  further  till  ten  the  next 
morning.  We  had  come  fifty  miles,  and  this  was 
deemed  excellent  work.  Of  course  I  had  no  choice ; 
and  I  might  have  been  called  to  give  up  a  few  hours  to 
a  less  interesting  place. 

Frankfort  is  indeed  a  pretty  town,  situated  on  the 
banks  of  the  river  Kentucky,  and  surrounded  by  hand- 
some hills.  The  erections  are  scattered  over  the  small 
plain  which  is  the  site  of  the  town,  and  are  relieved  by 
the  luxuriant  acacia,  so  as  to  give  the  whole  a  rural  and 
pastoral  appearance.  This  is  greatly  increased  by  the 
quantity  of  fine  cows  which  are  found  here,  and  which 
really  seem  to  be  a  part  of  the  family.  Most  families 
have  one  or  two,  and  towards  evening  they  move  about 
the  streets  like  human  beings,  perfume  the  air  with  their 
sweet  breath,  and  find  their  way  to  their  resting-place, 
frequently  through  the  entries  of  the  houses,  in  company 
with  the  children. 

All  the  sights  were  not  quite  so  rural  as  these.  In 
moving  about  the  town,  I  observed  a  fair  supply  of  ac- 
commodation for  religious  services.  There  were  also 
two  schools.  One  was  large,  and  for  common  purposes. 
The  boys  were,  at  the  time,  making  a  little  use  of  their 
American  liberties ;  they  were  coursing,  not  only  over 
the  desks,  a  very  English  trick,  but  over  the  roof  also. 
There  were  five  windows  on  this  side  of  the  structure, 


126 


SCHOOL-HOUSE. 


J 
i  \ 


J 


•-      •» 


I  ., 


and  there  was  not  one  pane  of  glass  unsmashed :  but 
this  was  all  the  better,  in  such  a  climate,  for  the  present ; 
and  what  have  boys  to  do  with  the  future  ? 

Of  the  other  school  I  had  rather  a  curious  notice. 
The  shades  of  the  evening  were  coming  on,  and  as  I 
suddenly  turned  the  angle  of  a  street,  I  saw  a  dark  ob- 
ject projecting  on  my  path  from  a  window  at  a  little  dis- 
tance. I  soon  perceived  that  it  was  the  booted  leg  of  a 
human  being ;  and  on  coming  nearer,  I  found  it  belonged 
to  a  pedagogue  in  class  with  some  dozen  youths,  who, 
if  not  learning  manners,  were  digesting  Latin  syntax  as 
they  could.  This  sort  of  trick  is  so  peculiar,  and  so 
common,  as  to  be  almost  an  Americanism.  I  certainly 
never  saw  legs  so  strangely  used  as  by  many  men  in 
this  country.  To  be  on  the  fender,  the  jambs  of  the 
stove,  the  chair,  the  mantelpiece,  is  nothing ;  it  is,  per- 
haps, European.  These  aspirants  seem  never  satisfied 
till  their  heels  are  on  a  level  with  their  head ;  and  at  one 
hotel  the  feet  have  attained  to  the  height  of  the  door- 
way, and  it  is  a  point  of  serious  ambition  with  young 
men  to  see  who  shall  score  the  highest  mark.  This  is 
certainly  turning  the  world  upside  down,  and  inventing  a 
new  field  of  aspiration.  The  old  strife  among  men  has 
been  to  see  who  should  carry  his  head  the  highest :  it  is 
now  to  be  seen  what  distinction  a  man's  heels  may  bring 
him  ;  and  this  experiment,  for  aught  I  can  see,  is  to  be 
made  in  America. 

In  what  will  be  the  centre  of  this  little  town,  there  is 
just  erected  a  Court-house  ;  and  in  its  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood are  a  number  of  little  wooden  offices  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  lawyers  who  attend  the  court. 
They  frequently  sit  out  on  nurses'  wicker  chairs,  beside 
their  offices ;  and,  to  a  perverse  imagination,  look  like  the 
spider  waiting  to  in^are  the  silly  fly.  The  Court-house 
is  built  of  marble,  in  the  Grecian  style,  with  a  good  por- 
tico. As  is  often  our  own  case,  it  shows  that  the  archi- 
tect had  no  real  taste.  Where  every  thing  is  done  by 
ancient  rule,  it  is  well ;  but  when  a  deviation  is  made,  or 
the  artist  is  left  to  himself,  what  a  falling  off  is  there ! 


KENTUCKY    SQUEEZE. 


127 


shed :  but 
e  present ; 

lis  notice. 
,  and  as  I 
I  dark  ob- 
little  dis- 
ci leg  of  a 
belonged 
iths,  who, 
syntax  as 
ir,  and  so 
'.  certainly 
ly  men  in 
bs  of  the 
it  is,  per- 
r  satisfied 
nd  at  one 
the  door- 
ith  young 

This  is 
venting  a 
men  has 
est :  it  is 
nay  bring 

is  to  be 

there  is 
te  neigh- 

for  the 
le  court, 
s,  beside 

like  the 
irt-house 
ood  por- 
le  archi- 
done  by 
made,  or 
s  there  1 


All  windows  were  suitably  kept  from  the  portico ;  but 
then  the  single  door  was  miserably  small ;  and  over  the 
portico  was  placed  a  cupola  in  lantern  fashion ! 

I  learned  that  this  evening  there  was  to  be,  in  apart- 
ments adjoining  my  inn,  what  is  called  a  squeeze.  Now 
a  Kentucky  squeeze  is  meant  to  correspond  with  a  Lon- 
don rout ;  and  though  not  desirous  to  be  of  the  party,  I 
had  some  desire  to  know  how  it  would  be  managed. 
Several  rooms  were  put  into  a  hasty  state  of  preparation. 
A  lady  and  her  daughter,  who  were  staying  at  the  inn, 
were  gliding  about  to  direct  the  ceremonial.  Articles  of 
furniture  were  borrowed  or  hired  from  all  quarters  for  the 
occasion ;  and,  in  the  end,  there  was  certainly  a  strange 
medley  of  the  new  and  the  old,  the  best  and  the  worst. 
Over  all  the  many  lights  shed  their  brilliancy,  and  the 
potted  flowers  shed  their  beauty  ;  and  the  party  providing 
were  so  satisfied  with  these  arrangements,  as  told  you  that 
they  had  nothing  to  fear  from  the  fastidious  tastes  of  the 
visiters. 

The  company  began  to  assemble  as  I  was  retiring  to 
my  chamber.  There  were  about  sixty  ladies  and  forty 
gentlemen  present.  They  came  with  little  noise,  for  the 
doors  were  open  to  receive  them,  and  carriages  they  had 
none  ;  nor  attendants,  except  the  firefly,  which  sparkled 
beautifully  about  their  path  and  their  persons.  The  fol- 
lowing morning,  I  inquired  of  my  friend  Franklin  if  he 
had  been.  "  O  yes,"  he  said,  " part  of  the  time." — "And 
what  did  you  do  f  I  continued.  "  Dancing,  cards,  and 
music,  I  suppose  ?" — "  O  dear  no  !  it  was  quite  a  Presby- 
terian meeting,  I  assure  you.  It  was  all  conversations 
and  such  like,  as  sober  as  possible — quite  rehgious.  It 
would  not  have  suited  me  once — but  now  it  does  well 
enough — things  are  greatly  altered  now,  and  perhaps  for 
the  better.  Dancing !  Why,  at  Selbyville  you  could  not 
get  a  couple  of  girls  in  all  the  place  who  would  run  down 
a  dance — they  are  all  converted !"  This  Presbyterian 
meeting,  however,  kept  rather  late  hours,  as  I  learned 
from  the  return  of  two  or  three  young  men,  who  had  en- 


128 


LEXINGTON. 


\4\ 


III 


gaged  the  room  next  to  mine.  Their  noisy  conversations 
also  told  me  that  they  had  come  into  town  to  attend  it, 
and  undoubtedly  with  no  religious  intentions. 

I  proceeded,  at  the  time  specified,  on  my  journey. 
We  went  by  way  of  Versailles,  and  were  seven  hours  in 
making  twenty-five  miles.  The  country,  however,  was 
interesting;  the  farms  large  and  park-like,  and  many  of 
them  showing  good  cultivation.  The  fine  clear  grazing 
land  beneath  the  forest-tree  is  a  peculiarity  here,  and  is 
very  grateful  to  the  eye.  Generally,  the  best  farms,  in 
comparison  with  ours,  want  exceedingly  the  animation  of 
stock.  A 

Our  passengers  also  supplied  some  entertainment. 
They  were  mostly  plain  persons,  but  of  good  sense  and 
behaviour ;  several  of  them  were  evidently  professors  of 
religion,  and  were  free  to  converse  on  the  subject.  You 
meet  frequently,  however,  with  persons  in  these  districts, 
who,  with  circumstances  all  against  them,  pique  them- 
selves on  fashionable  display.  A  lady  of  this  class  was 
to  go  on  with  us,  and  complete  the  number.  She  wore 
silks,  with  hooped  sleeves  and  petticoat.  The  difficulty 
was  to  get  her  into  her  seat ;  and  when  in,  she  was  liter- 
ally pressed  into  half  her  original  dimension,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  large  bonnet,  which  still  projected  on  the 
faces  to  her  right  and  left.  The  amount  of  mischief  was 
not  seen  till  she  alighted,  and  she  then  presented  truly  a 
most  ludicrous  figure.  The  wire  hoops  in  the  sleeves 
had  been  flattened  and  bent  upwards,  and  looked  like  two 
broken  wings ;  the  lower  hoops  had  undergone  a  similar 
process,  and  the  petticoat  stood  out  before  her  as  though 
it  did  not  belong  to  her.  She  wa3  confused,  and  tried  to 
adjust  her  dress,  but  could  not ;  while  the  spectators  were 
not  concerned  to  conceal  their  diversion. 

Lexington  is  a  good  town  of  6,000  persons,  and  for 
situation  and  promise,  worthy  to  be  the  metropolis  of  this 
fine  State.     It  must,  one  woiUd  think,  be  very  healthy ;  it 
is  surrounded  by  inviting  country,  and  abounds  in  com 
forts  to  its  inhabitants ;  yet  it  suffered  fearfully  by  cholera 


No  less 
was  pail 
nineteen 

The 
scale  ; 
grown  w 
main  str 
and  the 
the  whol 
softens 
city  in  a 
wealthy ; 
and  have 
mon  for  a 
clination 
stranger 

At  sun 
conclude( 
and  somi 
the  peop 
at  the  Cd 
Temperai 
when  I  a 
persons  i 
moved  to 
simply  c: 
appeared 
solved  or 
that  this 
them  wa 
temperan 
than  mui 

When 
pause, 
a  pause ; 
the  room 
it  lookec 
silent ;  t 
and  was 


TEMPERANCE    MEETING. 


129 


versations 
attend  it, 

'  journey. 
1  hours  in 
ever,  was 
i  many  of 
ir  grazing 
re,  and  is 
farms,  in 
nation  of 

tainment. 
sense  and 
lessors  of 
ct.     You 

districts, 
|ue  them- 
slass  was 
She  wore 
difficulty 
was  liter- 
h  the  ex- 
on  the 
;hief  was 
d  truly  a 
3  sleeves 

like  two 
a  similar 
ts  though 
i  tried  to 
ors  were 

and  for 
is  of  this 
ilthy;  it 
in  com 
cholera 


No  less  than  500  persons  were  cut  off  by  it ;  and  what 
was  painfully  remarkable  is,  that  a  family,  consisting  of 
nineteen  members,  actually  lost  seventeen. 

The  streets  of  this  town  are  laid  down  on  a  large 
scale  ;  but  two  thirds  of  their  width  is  at  present  over- 
grown with  grass  from  the  want  of  adequate  use.  The 
main  street  offers  a  nice  promenade  to  the  inhabitants ; 
and  the  churches.  Court-house,  and  University,  decorate 
the  whole,  while  the  acacia,  with  its  abundant  foliage, 
softens  the  outline,  and  gives  to  it  the  appearance  of  a 
city  in  a  wood.  Many  of  the  residents  here  are  evidently 
wealthy ;  the  people  generally  are  bland  in  their  manners, 
and  have  Warm  and  generous  feelings.  It  is  not  uncom- 
mon for  a  stranger  to  meet  with  a  friendly  and  smiling  in- 
clination of  the  head  as  he  passes,  and  to  the  heart  of  a 
stranger  it  is  grateful. 

At  sundown,  as  it  is  called,  a  bell  began  to  toll.  I 
concluded  that  there  was  to  be  a  meeting  of  some  sort 
and  somewhere ;  and  as  my  object  was  to  mingle  with 
the  people,  I  followed  its  voice,  and  soon  found  myself 
at  the  Court-house.  It  was  a  meeting  of  the  friends  of 
Temperance.  There  was  a  poor  promise  of  attendance 
when  I  arrived ;  but  at  last  there  were  nearly  a  hundred 
persons  assembled  ;  they  were  all  men.  An  individual 
moved  to  the  chair.  He  had  no  speaking  powers,  and 
simply  called  on  the  Secretary  to  read  the  minutes.  It 
appeared  from  these  that  monthly  meetings  had  been  re- 
solved on,  at  which  questions  should  be  discussed ;  and 
that  this  was  the  first  meeting.  The  question  before 
them  was,  "Whether,  in  the  last  one  hundred  years,  in- 
temperance had  not  done  more  harm  to  the  human  race 
than  murder,  disease,  war,  and  all  other  evils  1" 

VVTien  the  subject  was  thus  announced,  there  was  a 
pause.  The  chairman  solicited  remark.  Still  there  was 
a  pause ;  and  nothing  to  relieve  it.  The  lights  were  few ; 
the  room  looked  heavy  and  dull ;  and  those  who  occupied 
it  looked  heavy  also  and  dull.  All  was  sombre  and 
silent;  except  that  spitting  was  engaging  the  interval, 
and  was  so  continuous  as  to  be  like  rain  pattering  from 

F  3 


il  i 


REVIVAL   AT   LEXINGTON. 


rt! 

> 
h 


■  I  ■  ■; 


H. 


130 

the  roof,  and  so  universal  as  to  make  you  feel  that  you 
must  get  wet.  I  had  a  man  sitting  next  to  me  who  kept 
me  constantly  on  the  look-out ;  but  while  he  often  made 
me  jump,  he  did  me  no  harm.  These  men  have  surpri- 
sing cleverness  in  spirting  their  tobacco-juice ;  and,  like 
good  drivers,  they  seem  to  have  pride  in  showing  how 
near  they  can  run  to  an  object  without  touching  it. 

But  to  return  to  my  company.  By  this  time  you  are 
to  understand  that  a  worthy  clergyman  arose,  and  had 
the  boldness  to  take  the  affirmative  of  the  question. 
Another  pause  occurred,  with  the  same  interlude.  At 
length  a  person  advanced,  who,  by  his  rough  manner  and 
bad  expression,  I  took  for  a  mechanic  of  the  town,  de- 
livering himself  honestly,  but  unused  to  the  exercise. 
However,  he  quickly  showed  that  he  was  an  agent,  and 
he  made  in  the  end  a  very  indiscreet  speech,  in  a  most 
unwinning  style.  His  statements  relative  to  Lexington 
provoked  some  remarks.  He  hailed  them — he  hoped 
that  he  should  be  opposed — he  delighted  in  it.  A  law- 
yer, of  repute  at  the  bar,  spoke,  but  so  strangely,  that 
none  could  tell  whether  he  was  friend  or  foe.  Some  one 
expressed  a  fear  that  they  should  do  no  good  without  op- 
position ;  and  proposed  that  they  should  adjourn  to  get 
up  an  opposition ;  he  real' <-  feared  that  nobody  would 
come  again  without  it.  And  so  it  ended.  It  reminded  me 
forcibly  of  a  manoeuvre  played  by  one  of  our  minor  thea- 
tres lately.  li  had  failed  to  get  attention  by  other  means ; 
so  it  gave  notice,  by  large  placards,  of  A  Row  at  the  Co- 
bourg,  trusting  in  this  as  a  last  remedy  for  an  empty  house. 

A  principal  object  with  me  in  visiting  Lexington  was 
to  become  acquainted  with  Mr.  Hall  of  this  place,  who 
had  seen  much  of  revivals  in  his  own  connexions,  and 
who  had  lately  contributed  by  his  labours  to  those  which 
had  recently  occurred  in  Cincinnati.  He  very  kindly 
cornmunicated  with  freedom  on  the  subject.  The  most 
considerable  which  he  had  witnessed  was  at  Lexington 
about  six  years  since.  At  that  time  vital  rehgion  was  in 
a  very  low  state,  and  infidelity  and  Unitarianism  were 
becoming  fearfully  predominant  among  the  people,     H^i 


QS  a  faitl 
and  som( 
was  most 
ject  of  r( 
the  admis 
done  ? 
in  the  se 
meeting 
He  took 
like  mine 
surroundii 
It  was  th( 
citement  ^ 
was  a  lar| 

On  the 
the  usual 
the  occasi 
in  a  simih 
day,  a  pr 
o'clock  th 
attended, 
and  three 
gagement! 
Sabbath,  ^ 
hardened 
of  convic 
bly.     Th« 
Monday  n 

Thebr 
they  weni 
Their  ter 
thing  was 
their  affec 
and  exchi 
for  the  re 

When 
people  ar 
of  less,  l 
he  left  th 


REVIVAL   AT   LEXINGTON. 


131 


lel  that  you 
le  who  kept 
often  made 
ave  surpri- 
;  and,  hke 
owing  how 
ngit. 

ne  you  are 
),  and  had 
question, 
flude.     At 
cianner  and 
town,  de- 
!  exercise, 
agent,  and 
I  in  a  most 
Lexington 
-he  hoped 
.     A  law- 
igely,  that 
Some  one 
athout  op- 
urn  to  get 
)dy  would 
ninded  me 
linor  thea- 
er  means ; 
at  the  Co- 
3ty  house, 
igton  was 
lace,  who 
ions,  and 
)se  which 
ry  kindly 
rhe  most 
jexington 
)n  was  in 
ism  were 
>le,     Hei 


Si 


as  a  faithful  pastor,  felt  it  deeply.     It  happened  that  he 
and  some  other  clergymen  met  in  the  street,  and  what 
was  most  on  his  mind  became,  very  naturally,  the  sub- 
ject of  remark.     They  had  similar  feeling,  and  joined  in 
the  admissions  and  lamentations.     What  was  best  to  be 
done  ?     A  camp-meeting  was  proposed.     It  was  too  late 
in  the  season  for  this.     Mr.  Hall  advised  a  protracted 
meeting  of  four  days.     They   fell  in  with  his  views. 
He  took  the  sense  of  his  people  on  it,  and  they  were 
like  minded.     Steps  were  taken  in  the  town  and  the 
surrounding  country  to  give  it  publicity  and  importance. 
It  was  the  first  of  the  kind  in  that  region,  and  great  ex* 
citement  was  created ;  and  on  the  day  of  meeting  there 
was  a  large  influx  of  people. 

On  the  first  day,  they  began  at  eleven  o'clock,  with 
the  usual  order  of  worship,  the  sermon  being  suited  to 
the  occasion.  The  afternoon  and  evening  were  occupied 
in  a  similar  way,  and  with  good  effect.  On  the  second 
day,  a  prayer-meeting  was  held  at  sunrise.  At  nine 
o'clock  there  was  an  inquiry-meeting,  which  was  well 
attended.  The  usual  services  were  sustained  at  eleven 
and  three  o'clock.  The  third  day,  much  the  same  en- 
gagements, with  improved  effect.  The  fourth  day,  the 
Sabbath,  was  a  remarkably  solemn  day.  Many  sinners, 
hardened  in  infidelity  or  worldliness,  fell  under  the  power 
of  conviction,  and  great  fear  came  on  the  whole  assem- 
bly. The  exercises  closed  by  an  inquiry-meeting  on  the 
Monday  morning,  which  was  of  a  very  affecting  nature. 

The  brethren  had  this  week  to  attend  the  Synod,  and 
they  went  under  the  impressions  of  the  recent  services. 
Their  temper  was  communicated  to  others,  and  every 
thing  was  dehghtfuUy  interesting.  The  pastors  renewed 
their  affection  to  each  other,  and  their  covenant  with  God ; 
and  exchanged  pledges  to  retire  ct  a  given  time,  to  pray 
for  the  revived  state  of  their  churches. 

When  Mr.  Hall  returned  home,  he  found  his  own 
people  and  those  of  other  congregations  the  subjects  not 
of  less,  but  of  far  greater  religious  anxiety  than  before 
he  left  them.     They  were  earnestly  desirous  of  another 


If!' 

!' ''' 
ii  ;■ 


132 


REVIVAL   AT  LEXINGTON. 


1 1  :f: 


protracted  meeting,  and  he  thought  the  pecuhar  state  of 
the  people  would  justify  it.  Within  three  weeks  of  the 
time,  therefore,  mey  held  another  meeting.  It  was  con- 
ducted in  the  same  manner,  and  by  the  same  ministers, 
as  on  the  earher  occasion ;  and,  as  might  be  expected, 
from  the  existing  disposition  of  the  people,  with  greater 
benefit.  The  total  result  of  these  meetings  was,  that 
about  500  persons  made  profession  of  religion,  and  were 
admitted,  at  their  expiration,  to  different  fellowships,  ac- 
cording to  their  place  of  residence. 

The  general  effect  on  the  town  was  very  good.  "  From 
that  time,"  Mr.  Hall  emphaticali)  ^marked,  "  infidelity 
and  Unitarianism  broke  down."  h.:-.  admitted,  however) 
that  some,  and  perhaps  not  a  few,  wlio  had  thus  processed 
religion,  afterward  fell  away ;  and  that  since,  "  neither 
revivals,  nor  cholera,  nor  any  thing,  had  touched  them." 

Perhaps  I  had  better  add  to  this  account,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  regulating  your  opinion  of  this  revival,  and  of 
the  general  state  of  religion,  a  sketch  of  congregations 
in  figures.  There  are  two  Presbyterian  places,  with 
about  1,200  attendants  and  300  communicants.  Mr. 
Hall's  is  one  of  these,  and  by  far  the  largest.  Two 
Baptist)  with  about  1,000  attendants,  and  200  communi- 
cants; two  Methodist,  about  1,100  attendants,  and  400 
communicants;  two  African,  Methodist  and  Baptist,  1,000 
attendants ;  one  Episcopalian,  about  500  attendants. 

I  found  the  people  at  this  time  under  some  uneasiness 
in  relation  to  the  spread  of  Romanism.  The  partisans 
of  that  system  are  greatly  assisted  from  Europe  by  sup- 
plies of  money  and  teachers.  The*  teachers  have  usually 
more  acquired  competency  than  the  native  instructers ; 
and  this  is  a  temptation  to  parents  who  are  seeking  ac- 
complishments for  their  children,  and  who  have  a  high 
opinion  of  European  refinements.  It  appeared  that  out 
of  four  schools  provided  for  the  wants  of  the  town,  three 
were  in  the  hands  of  Catholics.  I  heard  a  sermon  by  a 
young  clergyman  on  this  subject.  It  showed  a  good 
acquaintance  with  the  subject,  and  a  pious  and  affection- 
ate regard  for  the  welfare  of  his  flock ;  but  it  did  not 


THE    FOREST. 


133 


State  of 
ks  of  the 
was  con- 
ninisters, 
ixpected, 
h  greater 
vas,  that 
and  were 
lips,  ac- 

"Frotn 
infidehty 
lowever, 
)ro^essed 
"  neither 
d  them." 
the  pur- 

and  of 
egations 
es,  with 
ts.     Mr. 
t.     Two 
ommuni- 
and  400 
St,  1,000 
mts. 
Business 
•artisans 
by  sup- 
usually 
ructers ; 
ing  ac- 
>  a  high 
that  out 
n,  three 
an  by  a 
a  good 
fection- 
did  not 


awaken  much  attention.  There  was  too  much  of  Jove, 
and  Minerva,  and  Penelope  in  it,  and  too  little  of  point- 
ed appeal  and  Christian  obligation. 

I  had  many  attentions  here  from  kind  frier  ds,  and  they 
would  have  been  increased  had  I  been  able  to  tarry  and 
receive  them. 


LETTER  XIII. 

My  dear  Friend, 
On  renewing  my  journey,  I  had  again  to  sacrifice  my 
rest ;  the  coach  by  which  I  was  to  travel  left  at  ten 
o'clock  at  night.  But  as  we  got  on  higher  ground,  my 
health  was  beginning  to  improve,  and  I  was  more  able  to 
contend  with  fatigue  than  I  had  been.  Tovv'ards  day- 
break we  drew  near  Owensville.  The  forest,  which  had 
lately  stood  off  in  the  distance,  gathered  round  me,  and 
demar.  ied,  with  the  confidence  of  an  old  friend,  my  ad- 
miration. Like  ourselves,  it  was  the  same,  and  yet  not 
the  same.  Every  region  presents  you  with  its  favourite 
species ;  and  as  they  approach  the  line  of  separation, 
the  species  run  into  each  other,  and  place  before  you 
every  variety  of  combination,  growth,  and  beauty.  It  is 
one  of  the  wonders  of  the  forert,  that  wi;!'  such  sim- 
ple elements  it  suppli'js  you  with  such  endless  variety. 
The  kinds  most  prevalent  now  were  the  maple,  the  sugar- 
tree,  the  vine,  the  hickory,  the  beech,  and  the  oak,  in  all 
its  varieties.  The  first  two  are  very  abundant,  and  they 
yield  large  supplies  of  sugar  to  the  inhabitants.  Every- 
where you  see  the  sugar-tree  subjected  to  the  process  of 
tapping.  This  is  of  cour'^e  done  when  the  sap  is  rising 
in  the  stem ;  the  saccharine  juice  then  oozes  out,  and 
running  through  a  little  wooden  trough,  made  to  project 
fi:om  the  side  of  the  tree,  it  falls  into  a  vessel  below, 
which  is  placed  to  receive  it.     These  molasses  are  very 

12 


!  . 


.  1      .1,1^ 


h  ! 


ifti; 


I 


I 


/>; 


:!  ■? 


I: 


\ 


134 


OWENSVILLE. 


fine,  and  are  much  preferred  by  the  people  to  those  of 
the  sugar-cane, 

Owensville,  when  we  reached  it,  was  full  of  hfe.  It 
was  market-day.  The  people  from  the  country  far 
round  were  present,  and  were  busy  chapping,  chatting, 
eating,  drinking.  It  was  a  picture  of  its  kind.  We 
paused  at  the  inn,  and  I  alighted  for  the  sake  of  seeing 
the  persons  assembled.  Those  in  the  bar-room  were 
men  from  the  country,  with  stick  or  whip  in  hand,  swing- 
ing on  their  chairs,  or  driving  their  bargains.  A  couple 
of  pedlers,  too,  had  found  entrance,  and  were  trying  to 
obtain  customers  for  some  pictures  and  showy  books  of 
a  very  vile  edition.  The  day  was  hot,  and  it  was  an 
excuse  for  drinking ;  and  most  of  them  were  availing 
themselves  of  this  excuse  by  the  use  of  eome  of  the 
many  mixtures  which  are  prepared  at  these  bars.  Here, 
as  everywhere,  mint-julap  was  the  favourite  draught ; 
and  two  of  them  had  certainly  drunk  too  freely.  You 
would  have  been  chiefly  surprised  to  find  yourself 
among  such  very  plain  persons ;  most  of  whom  were, 
nevertheless,  addressed,  and  addressing  each  other,  by 
sounding  titles.  Here  was  Captain  Gray,  and  Colonel 
Ball,  and  Colonel — his  name  has  slipped  me — dressed 
in  fustian,  and  dwelling  in  log-houses.  But  the  Amer- 
icans, while  they  repudiate  titles,  are  certainly  fond  of 
them.  Nowhere  do  you  meet  with  so  many  ;  in  some 
districts,  every  sixth  man  seems  to  be  either  captain,  or 
colonel,  or  judge,  or  doctor. 

In  this  instance,  the  captain,  an  aged  man,  determined 
that  I  should  not  hear  all  and  say  nothing.  He  drew 
his  chair  nearer  to  mine,  twirled  his  stick  about  his  boot, 
and  looking  inquisitively,  but  with  good-hum  jur,  said, 
"  Well,  squire  !  you  have  travelled  far,  I  guess  ?" — ••'  Yes, 
pretty  far,"  I  said.  "  You  are  a  stranger,  maybe  V — "  I 
came,"  I  said,  "  from  New- York." — "  Ay,  a  Yorker,  or 
a  New-England  man,  I  took  ye  for,"  he  exclaimed, 
pleased  with  his  sagacity.  "  Clever  men  be  they,"  he 
continued ;  "  I  knew  ye  could  not  be  of  these  parts. 
And  where  be  ye  going  V — "  1  am  going,"  I  rephed, 


til 

I 


JOURNEY. 


135 


"  into  Virginia ;  I  shall  afterward  return  to  New- York  ; 
and  I  really  do  not  know  exactly  wb  t  I  shall  go  after- 
ward." I  said  so  much,  on  Franklin's  principle,  hoping 
to  get  rid  of  my  catechist.  But  I  did  not,  as  I  suppose 
Franklin  did  not,  wholly  succeed.  It  is  said  of  him, 
that  when  travelling,  he  would  often  anticipate  the  in- 
quisitiveness  of  the  people,  by  answering  all  they  might 
wish  to  know,  thus — "  My  name  is  Benjamin  Franldin — 
I  am  going  to  Boston — I  came  from  Philadelphia — My 
business  is  so  and  so — My  wife  is  with  me,  and  three 
children — their  names  are  so  and  so,  and  their  ages  so 
and  so." 

As  we  advanced  on  our  journey,  we  came  into  solitary 
ways ;  and  the  land  rose,  and  the  forest  thickened 
around  us,  so  as  to  indicate  that  we  were  getting  away 
from  human  habitation,  and  among  mountain  scenery. 
We  arrived  at  about  seven  o'clock  at  a  lone  house,  and 
were  told  that  we  were  to  go  on  at  eleven.  This  was 
very  provoking ;  but  there  was  no  remedy.  I  took, 
therefore,  my  tea,  which  is  both  tea  and  supper  here, 
and  dressed  myself,  and  laid  down  on  a  clean  bed,  to 
slumber  till  half  past  ten.  When  summoned,  I  was 
some  time  before  I  could  get  my  eyes  fairly  open,  and 
persuade  myself  to  leave  a  comfortable  bed,  at  an  hour 
when  most  persons  were  looking  towards  it ;  but  neces- 
sity was  on  me,  and  I  was  more  refreshed  than  I  ex- 
pected to  be.  In  fact,  we  were  ascending  among  the 
mountains ;  and  I  doubt  not  that  the  air  of  the  higher 
ground  was  imparting  renovation.  By  eleven  at  night, 
then,  we  quitted  our  comfortable  cabin,  and  began  to 
ascend  the  gorges  of  the  mountains.  We  were  only 
three  persons :  the  driver,  myself,  and  another  man,  who 
was  connected  with  this  line  of  stage.  I  had  regretted 
that  I  had  not  daylight,  to  see  and  admire  the  wild  and 
noble  scenery  around  me  ;  but  the  night  had  its  charms. 
The  dark  forms  of  the  hills  gathering  about  you ;  the 
forest-trees  doubling  their  immense  size  by  their  local 
elevation,  and  casting  their  heavy  shadows  on  you  ;  the 
Utter  absence  of  all  signs  of  life  and  cultivation ;  tho 


I: 


136 


JOURNEY. 


I 


-.■!  i 


perfect  silence  which  reigned  unbroken,  except  by  the 
rumbling  of  tlie  coach  and  the  bariiing  of  the  wolves ; 
and  the  obscurity  and  indcfinitencss  of  every  object  on 
which  Ihe  eya  fell;  acted  togetlicr  as  powerfully  on  the 
mind  as  ary  thing  I  have  known,  and  frequently  left  it 
diflicult  to  decide  between  the  actual  and  the  imaginary. 

While  I  was  indulging  my  imagination,  and  had  cer- 
tainly no  sense  of  danger,  I  found  that  my  companions  in 
travel  were  under  real  alarm  for  the  safety  of  the  mail. 
It  appeared  from  the  driver's  statement,  that,  twice  in 
the  past  week,  when  he  was  driving  the  mail  alone,  he 
was  threatened  with  attack.  On  one  occasion,  his  wheel 
was  locked  by  some  unknown  hand  ;  and  the  second  time 
he  saw  two  men,  who  had  concealed  themselves  behind 
a  plane-tree,  which  projected  on  the  passage  of  the  coach. 
This,  of  course,  gave  additional  zest  to  our  midnight  ad- 
venture ;  and  I  began  to  fear  that  my  luggage,  which  was 
lashed  behind,  might  disappear  before  morning.  As  we 
drew  near  to  the  spot  where  the  coachman  had  seen  the 
men,  he  was  evidently  much  excited ;  he  put  his  horses 
at  better  speed,  and  made  us,  by  exclamations,  understand 
wh  ire  and  how  they  had  appeared.  We  gazed  earnestly 
on  ihe  immense  tree,  and  tried  to  penetrate  "into  the  dark 
copse-wood  beyond  it;  but  no  robbers  were  to  be  seen. 
However,  we  had  slill  the  benefit  of  thinking  that  they 
might  appear,  and  this  gave  the  last  touch  of  interest  to 
this  wild  and  romantic  region,  and  kept  us  eflfectually 
from  slumber  and  ennui. 

The  following  morning,  at  eleven,  we  arrived  at  a 
shabby  house,  v.hich  was  used  as  an  inn.  Here  I  broke 
my  fast,  after  travelling  twelve  hours  and  fasting  sixteen. 
There  was  a  small  settlement  here,  connected  with  some 
iron-works.  I  found  the  cholera  had  made  its  way  into 
these  fastnesses  of  nature.  Two  persons  had  died,  and 
one  was  dying.  I  saw  a  man  who  was  reported  to  have 
it,  and  who  was  avoided  by  every  one  from  terror.  But, 
in  his  case,  the  rumour  was  the  mere  effect  of  ignorant 
fear ;  he  had  the  sciatica,  and  no  sign  of  the  cholera. 
lie  was  very  grateful  that  I  had  confidence  to  enter  his 


VINE. — GUIANDOT. 


137 


room  anrl  speak  with  liim.  He  was  one  of  those  many 
persons  who,  living  or  dying,  must  chew  and  spit ;  sick 
as  he  was,  he  had  n  mound  of  sand  raised  on  the  floor, 
on  which  he  might  indulge  his  propensity. 

The  remainder  of  the  ride  to  Guiandot  was  highly  in- 
teresting ;  but  mostly  such  as  1  have  described.  The 
last  stage  was  on  a  line  with  the  Ohio,  on  a  fine  piece  of 
road  ;  and  it  presented  us  with  a  change  of  scenery  highly 
beautiful.  The  wild  vine  became  here  a  prominent 
feature.  In  the  thicker  forests,  it  frequently  shows  a 
dozen  or  a  score  of  large  naked  stems,  runnrng  up  into 
the  tallest  trees,  and  quite  datached  from  the  trunk,  and 
strangling  it  in  its  growth,  leaving  you  to  wonder  how 
it  could  ever  get  there,  and  presenting  rather  a  curious 
than  a  beautiful  object  of  sight.  But  here  it  grew  on 
the  margin  of  the  forest,  anJ  luxuriated  in  light  and  air ; 
and  the  effect  was  often  most  pleasing.  It  ran  up  the 
shorter  trees ;  used  them  as  a  mere  skeleton ;  covered 
their  heads  with  its  luxuriant  foliage  :  and  threw  out  its 
dishevelled  arms  and  tendrils  to  the  ground,  so  as  to 
form  the  most  inviting  canopies  and  alcoves. 

Guiandot  is  a  small  but  advancing  town,  placed  at  the 
confluence  of  two  rivers,  and  forming  a  point  of  commu- 
nication between  three  States — Kentucky,  Ohio,  and  Vir- 
ginia. It  is  itself  in  Virginia  ;  and  before  we  enter  on  a 
new  State,  it  may  be  desirable  to  offer  a  few  general  re- 
marks on  that  which  we  are  quitting.  From  what  has 
already  been  delineated,  you  will  deem  this  to  be  an  in- 
teresting and  beautiful  State,  with  many  attractions  to 
settlement.  But  it  suffers  as  a  slave-State  ;  many  leave 
it  for  Ohio  on  this  account ;  and  that  State,  though  more 
remote,  and  of  much  more  recent  settlement,  exceeds  this 
in  population  by  300,000  persons.  The  population  of 
Kentucky  is  700,000.  There  are  about  100  Presbyte- 
rian congregations ;  about  300  Methodist  clergymen,  in- 
cluding local  preachers ;  about  fifty  Catholic  priests ; 
about  twelve  Episcopalian ;  a  few  Shakers ;  and  some 
other  sects  which,  in  numbers,  however,  are  very  insig- 
nificant.    Besides  these,  the  Baptists  are  very  numerous. 

18* 


li'  I: 


139 


KENTUCKY. 


l: 


They  are  spoken  of  as  having  the  largest  number  of  any 
in  this  iStato  ;  but  it  is  exceedingly  ditHcult  to  ascertain 
their  strength ;  and  it  is  yet  more  so  to  deternune  on  the 
number  of  their  pastors  ;  for  the  oflices  of  minister,  elder, 
and  deacon,  are  made  to  run  into  each  other,  so  as  to 
confound  distinction.  Their  educated  teachers  are  very 
few ;  their  uneducated  and  self-constituted  teachers  are 
surprisingly  numerous.  In  this  disorganized  state,  Mr. 
Campbell  came  among  them  with  his  new  lights  ;  and 
now  nothing  is  heard  of  but  Camelism,  as  it  is  called. 
The  people  of  this  denomination,  and  especially  the  teach- 
ers, had  made  too  much  of  their  peculiarities  as  Baptists. 
Campbell  came  among  them  and  made  every  thing  of 
them,  and  has  succeeded  to  an  alarming  extent.  He  de- 
nounces everybody ;  he  unsettles  every  thing,  and  set- 
tles nothing ;  and  there  is  great  present  distraction  and 
scandal.  But  his  ministrations,  I  believe,  will  be  over- 
ruled for  good.  They  are  of  the  nature  of  fire :  they 
will  try  and  consume  the  hay,  wood,  and  stubble,  and 
there  was  much  to  be  consumed.  The  pious  of  the  peo- 
ple will  see  their  error,  and  rectify  it ;  and  those  of  the 
denomination  elsewhere  will  perceive  the  importance  of 
securing  to  them  a  well-trained  ministry. 

The  colleges  of  pubhc  instruction  in  this  State  bear  a 
good  proportion  to  those  of  other  States.  Besides  these, 
so  far  as  the  ministry  is  concerned,  something  considera- 
ble is  done.  It  is  not  uncommon,  I  found,  for  the  pas- 
tors to  receive  and  train  young  men  for  pastoral  labour  ; 
one  minister  I  met  with  had  prepared  twelve ;  and  it 
was  generally  admitted  that  those  who  were  thus  pre- 
pared were  among  the  most  pious  and  successful.  The 
University,  too.  which  had  languis^hed  in  infidel  hands, 
was  renewing  jts  strength,  and  promising  to  become  a 
valuable  focus  of  light,  truth,  and  moral  energy.  The 
Medical  School  is  now  spoken  of  in  the  highest  terms. 


JOURNEY. 


139 


er  of  any 
ascertain 
ne  on  tho 
ter,  elder, 
,  so  as  to 
I  are  very 
chers  are 
state,  Mr. 
rhts ;  and 
Is  called, 
the  teach- 
Baptists. 
thing  of 
Hede- 
and  set- 
:tion  and 
be  over- 
ire  :  they 
bble,  and 
f  the  peo- 
56  of  the 
rtance  of 

ite  bear  a 
les  these, 
onsidera- 

the  pas- 
1  labour  ; 
! ;  and  it 
thus  pre- 
ul.  The 
3l  hands, 
jecome  a 
ry.     The 

terms. 


LETTER  XIV. 

My  dear  Friend, 

On  reaching  Guiandot,  I  determined  to  rest  a  day  or 
two,  that  I  might  get  some  refreshment  after  my  fatigue, 
and  have  time  to  look  around  nie,  and  preserve  tho  ima- 
ges of  the  things  I  had  seen.  But  what  we  dctcrniino, 
and  what  others  determine  for  us,  are  often  difl'erent 
things.  The  coach  proprietors  here  had  determined  that 
their  stage  should  leave  at  three  o'clock  the  following 
morning ;  that  none  other  should  start  for  three  days  to 
come;  and  that  then  those  who  came  on  in  the  line 
would  have  the  preference.  There  was  literally  no  other 
mode  of  conveyance,  so  that  I  had  no  choice  ;  and  when 
I  found  that,  from  the  arrival  of  company,  it  was  doubtful 
whether  I  could  secure  a  place,  I  hastened  with  desire  to 
obtain  what  I  had  deemed  very  objectionable. 

Of  course,  my  rest,  though  I  sought  it  early,  was  short 
and  imperfect ;  and  by  candle-light  I  found  myself,  half 
asleep,  packed  most  tightly  in  the  ho avy  vehicle,  making 
one  of  ten  persons.  One  of  these  persons  was  indeed 
an  infant;  it  had  a  femnle  slave  for  its  wet-nurse.  It 
was  the  first  time  I  had  set'i  a  woman  of  colour  act  in 
this  capacity,  and  I  confes-s  it  shook  a  little  my  philoso- 
phy. Our  company  was  made  up  of  the  better  class  ; 
fashionables  from  the  south  who  were  on  their  way  to  the 
springs.  One  was  an  Englishman  and  a  merchant ;  he 
had  come  out  to  Orleans  twenty  years  ago,  with  fifteen 
others,  and  he  was  the  only  surviver.  Then  thiere  were 
a  captain  ;  a  major ;  a  consuimptive  in  chase  of  life,  which 
was  fleeting  from  him  ;  and  a  reclaimed  rake  with  his 
young  wife,  child,  and  servant.  They  supplied  a  good 
study  ;  but  I  must  not  detain  you. 

On  stopping  to  breakfast,  we  found  our  repast  prepared 
out  of  doors,  but  in  the  shade,  and  beneath  a  veranda. 


140 


SALT-WORKS. 


ill 


1  , 


n  I 


It  had  a  light  and  rural  effect.  Our  ablutions,  too,  were 
to  be  performed  under  the  same  circumstances,  and  with 
utensils  in  common ;  though  you  might  generally  have, 
if  you  claimed  it,  your  own  towel.  It  was  considered 
quite  enough  if  exceptions  were  made  to  this  course  in 
favour  of  ladies. 

Our  dining  station  was  Charleston;  a  thriving  and 
pleasant  town  on  the  banks  of  the  Kenhawa.  It  depends 
chiefly  on  the  salt-works  which  abound  in  this  neighbour- 
hood. The  handsome  Catalpa  appears  here,  and  affords 
the  shade  of  its  broad  and  thick  foliage  to  the  cottages. 
The  scenery  was  evidently  improving ;  after  dinner  I 
took  my  seat  outside  for  the  sake  of  commanding  it ;  and 
not  less  to  relieve  myself  from  the  heat  and  pressure 
within.  We  now  passed  the  salt-works.  There  are  not 
less  than  one  hundred  ;  and  sixty  of  them  are  in  work. 
They  bore  for  the  water,  and  usually  get  a  large  supply, 
rising  above  the  surface  from  a  depth  of  200  feet.  It 
is  said  that  as  much  as  a  million  and  a  half  of  barrels 
are  manufactured  here  annually.  The  works  stretch 
about  two  miles  along  this  beautiful  valley,  and  greatly 
disfigure  it. 

But  you  soon  get  clear  of  them,  and  the  slip  of  land 
in  a  line  with  them,  and  along  the  river,  is  verdant  with 
grass  and  corn.  Every  thing  continues  to  improve.  The 
httle  plain  below  you  disappears  ;  the  banks  of  the  river 
become  sharp  and  bold,  and  are  ornamented  by  pendent 
woods  ;  the  hills  get  up  into  mountainous  forms,  and  run 
out  before  you  into  the  finest  picture  ;  and  as  you  pass 
them  in  succession,  they  reveal  to  your  separate  admira- 
tion the  sweetest  dells  imaginable.  Still,  as  evening 
came  on,  every  thing  was  changed  and  improving.  The 
river  was  becoming  more  animated ;  its  sides  more  ab- 
rupt. The  hills  opposite  you  still  rose,  hill  after  hill,  in 
soft  and  lovely  forms ;  while  those  on  this  side  of  the 
river  split  away  in  the  centre ;  stood  on  your  path ;  almost 
refused  you  passage  ;  rose  in  massive,  broken  forms 
above  you ;  and  hung  beetling  over  your  head,  presenting 
to  t]}e  eye  some  of  the  finest  rock-work,  for  shape  and 


I 


KENHAWA  FALLS. 


141 


too,  were 
,  and  with 
ally  have, 
;onsidered 

course  in 

iving  and 
t  depends 
leighbour- 
nd  affords 

cottages. 

dinner  I 
g  it ;  and 

pressure 
re  are  not 

in  work, 
e  supply, 

feet.     It 

)f  barrels 

s  stretch 

greatly 

p  of  land 
lant  with 
ve.    The 
the  river 
'  pendent 
,  and  run 
you  pass 
i  admira- 
evening 
g.     The 
more  ab- 
ir  hill,  in 
le  of  the 
;  almost 
n  forms 
esenting 
ape  and 


colour,  that  was  ever  beheld.  All  this  was  taken,  for  it 
continued  long,  in  the  last  lights  of  day,  and  under  the 
more  fascinating  lights  of  the  rising  moon.  I  must  leave 
you  to  judge  of  the  effect.  I  had  not  expected  it,  and  1 
was  quite  refreshed  and  elevated  by  it.  It  doeth  good 
hke  a  medicine. 

We  reached  the  hotel  at  which  we  were  to  pause  about 
midnight.  It  is  near  to  the  Kenhawa  Falls  ;  and  from 
the  beauty  of  the  neighbourhood,  has  many  visiters.  I 
took  a  hasty  cup  of  coffee,  and  weary,  as  I  was,  went 
with  anothe,  gentleman  to  see  the  Falls.  We  could 
hear  them  in  the  distance  ;  but  we  had  to  go  round  in 
order  to  reach  them.  The  chief  of  our  way  was  over 
shattered  rock,  offering  a  good  access  by  day,  but  requi- 
ring care  at  night,  from  the  sharp  pitches  of  some  parts, 
and  from  the  numerous  circulai  holes  bored  in  them  by  the 
eddies  of  the  water.  They  are  not  to  be  spoken  of  with 
Niagara,  or  even  with  Shauffausen,  but  the  whole  scene 
was  striking  and  interesting,  the  more  so,  undoubtedly, 
in  the  still  hour  of  night.  I  seated  myself  on  a  shelf  of 
rock  whence  the  waters  made  their  principal  leap.  Dark- 
ness had  spread  its  curtain  on  the  sleeping  objects  in  the 
distance.  The  pale  moon  had  run  her  race,  and  was  just 
falling  behind  the  hills ;  her  last  lights  fell  faintly  on  my 
face  and  the  head  of  waters,  but  left  the  precipices  and 
pools  below  me  in  heavy  shadows.  At  my  feet  the  river 
was  dashing  down,  and  lifting  up  its  voice  from  the 
deeps  beneath  to  Him  who  holds  the  waters  in  the  hol- 
low of  his  hand.  It  had  done  so  for  ages  past ;  it  would 
do  so  for  ages  to  come.  Here  the  po'>r  Indian  had 
stood,  but  will  never  stand  again,  thinking  he  heard  in 
those  waters  the  voice  of  Deity,  and  gazing  on  the  face 
of  that  orb  with  wonder,  till  the  spirit  of  worship  was 
stirred  within  him.  Here  also  I  stood,  and  shall  never 
stand  again,  wistfully  looking  through  the  visible  and 
audible  to  the  unseen  but  present  object  of  adoration 
and  praise. 

We  returned  to  the  inn.  I  had  an  hour  and  a  half  of 
rest ;  and  was  found  with  my  companions  on  the  way, 


1 


n  \ 


142 


THE    HAWK  S    NEST. 


It 


soon  after  three  o'clock.  Most  of  the  company  showed 
that  they  had  only  been  awakened,  Uke  a  child,  to  be  put 
in  a  new  position,  and  their  heads  were  nodding  about  in 
all  directions.  About  seven  o'clock,  however,  we  ap- 
proached a  spot  which  is  of  great  reputed  beauty,  and  we 
pledged  the  coachman  to  stop  that  we  might  have  a  fair 
sight  of  it.  You  leave  the  road  by  a  little  by-path,  and 
after  pursuing  it  for  a  short  distance,  the  whole  scene 
suddenly  breaks  upon  you.  But  how  shall  I  describe  it  ] 
The  great  charm  of  the  whole  is  greatly  connected  with 
the  point  of  sight,  which  is  the  finest  imaginable.  You 
come  suddenly  to  a  spot  which  is  called  the  Hawk's  Nest. 
It  projects  on  the  scene,  and  is  so  small  as  td  give  stand- 
ing to  only  some  half  dozen  persons.  It  has  on  its 
head  an  old  picturesque  pine,  and  it  breaks  away  at  your 
feet  abruptly  and  in  perpendicular  lines,  to  a  depth  of 
more  than  200  feet.  On  this  standing,  which,  by  its  ele- 
vated and  detached  character,  affects  you  like  the  Mon- 
ument, the  forest  rises  above  and  around  you.  Beneath 
and  before  you  is  spread  a  lovely  valley.  A  peaceful 
river  glides  down  it,  reflecting,  like  a  mirror,  all  the  lights 
of  heaven ;  washes  the  foot  of  the  rocks  on  which  you 
are  standing ;  and  then  winds  away  into  another  valley 
at  your  right.  The  trees  of  the  wood,  in  all  their  variety, 
stand  out  on  the  verdant  bottoms,  with  their  heads  in  the 
sun,  and  casting  their  shadows  at  their  feet ;  but  so  dimin- 
ished, as  to  look  more  like  the  picture  of  the  things  than 
the  things  themselves.  The  green  hills  rise  on  either 
hand  and  all  around,  and  give  completeness  and  beauty 
to  the  scene ;  and  beyond  these  appears  the  gray  outline 
of  the  more  distant  mountains,  bestowing  grandeur  to 
what  was  supremely  beautiful.  It  is  exquisite.  It  con- 
veys to  you  the  idea  of  perfect  solitude.  The  hand  of 
man,  the  foot  of  man,  seem  never  to  have  touched  that 
valley.  To  you,  though  placed  in  the  midst  of  it,  it  seems 
altogether  inaccessible.  You  long  to  stroll  along  the 
margin  of  those  sweet  waters,  and  repose  under  the  shad- 
ows of  those  beautiful  trees  ;  but  it  looks  impossible.  It 
is  solitude,  but  of  a  most  soothing — not  of  an  appalling 


character 
and  folly  I 
Most  0 
eager  to  s 
Happily  fc 
a  point  of 
themselves 
stones  acr( 
find  that  U' 
excepting 
grasped  tin 
scene. 

The  ear 

introductio 

ing  the  Al 

them.     Av 

on  the  roof 

without  dii 

such  perfe( 

description 

as  I  have  d 

and  dells,  a 

combinatioi 

The  moi 

manding  v: 

they  preser 

the  eye  an 

you  saw  oi 

<Tone,  but  > 

interviews 

ligent,  nol 

friendly  as 

of  your  lift 

you  find  al 

fall  of  day 

the  rude  h 

this  is  not 

elevated  < 

two  cause 


MOUNTAIN    SCENERY. 


143 


my  showed 
d,  to  be  put 
ng  about  in 
^er,  we  ap- 
aty,  and  we 
have  a  fair 
y-path,  and 
tide  scene 
lescribe  it  ] 
ected  with 
ible.     You 
iwk's  Nest. 
give  stand- 
has  on  its 
iTay  at  your 
a  depth  of 
,  by  its  ele- 
e  the  Mon- 
Beneath 
A  peaceful 
.1  the  Ughts 
which  you 
ther  valley 
eir  variety, 
ads  in  the 
so  dimin- 
hings  than 
on  either 
ind  beauty 
ay  outline 
andeur  to 
It  con- 
e  hand  of 
iched  that 
t,  it  seems 
along  the 
•  the  shad- 
sible.     It 
appalling 


character  ;  where  sorfow  might  learn  to  forget  her  griefs, 
and  folly  begin  to  be  wise  and  happy. 

Most  of  my  companions,  I  am  sorry  to  say,  though 
eager  to  see  this  sight,  had  no  tasie  for  it  when  seen. 
Happily  for  me,  they  did  not  choose  to  remain  at  so  dizzy 
a  point  of  sight  as  I  had  chosen,  and  so  they  employed 
themselves  at  a  distance.  Their  employ  was  to  throw 
stones  across  the  river,  and  their  astonishment  was  to 
find  that  no  stone  they  could  cast  would  reach  it !  All 
excepting  our  merchant :  he  remained  with  me  ;  and  we 
grasped  the  stunted  pine,  and  in  deep  silence  enjoyed  the 
scene. 

The  early  sight  of  the  Hawk's  Nest  was  only  a  good 
introduction  to  the  ride  of  this  day.  It  was  spent  in  cross- 
ing the  Allegany  mountains,  and  others  in  alliance  with 
them.  Aware  of  what  was  to  come,  I  took  my  station 
on  the  roof  of  1  '  'r>ach,  that  I  might  enjoy  the  exhibition 
without  disturita;>;<;  ,  and  seldom  have  I  had  a  day  of 
such  perfect  a^.d  l.calthful  exhilaration.  To  attempt  a 
description  of  scene  after  scene,  would  only  be  to  speak, 
as  I  have  done,  of  rocks,  and  hills,  and  rivers,  and  trees, 
and  dells,  and  valleys  ;  the  elements  were  the  same  ;  the 
combination  was  different — ^was  endless. 

The  mountains  here  do  not  offer  you  that  one  com- 
manding view  which  may  be  obtained  elsewhere  ;  but 
they  present  you  with  continued  pictures,  which  charm 
the  eye  and  regale  the  spirits.  It  is  not,  indeed,  as  if 
you  saw  one  human  face  divine,  which  appears,  and  is 
ffone,  but  will  never  be  forgotten ;  but  it  is  as  if  you  had 
interviews  in  succession  with  a  multitude  of  faces,  intel- 
ligent, noble,  and  smiling,  which,  by  their  kind  and 
friendly  aspect,  made  the  day  among  the  ,most  pleasant 
of  your  life.  In  descending  into  the  gorges  of  the  hills, 
you  find  all  that  is  wild,  and  dark,  and  solitary  ;  and  at  the 
fall  of  day  you  may  hear  the  baying  of  the  wolf,  and  see 
the  rude  huntsman  go  forth  to  encounter  the  bear  ;  still, 
this  is  not  the  character  of  these  regions.  It  is  that  of 
elevated  cheerfulness.  I  attribute  this  principally  to 
two  causes.     First,  that  the  forest  is  nowhere  on  a 


■^ 


144 


LEWISBURG. 


p: 


I't 


\i 


1,%: 


level ;  it  runs  along  the  sides  of  the  mountains  in  galle- 
ries bathed  in  the  light  of  heaven,  and  while  it  towers 
over  you  on  the  one  side,  it  leaves  the  more  distant  pros- 
pect on  the  other  side  always  open  to  the  eye.  The  sec- 
ond is,  that  at  the  feet  of  these  majestic  trees,  the  oak, 
the  pine,  the  cedar,  the  beech,  and  the  tulip,  you  find 
such  an  astonishing  supply  of  the  finest  shrubs  and 
flowers.  The  'aurel,  the  sumach,  the  dog-wood,  the  rho- 
dodendron, the  cranberry,  the  whortleberry,  and  the  straw- 
berry ;  the  rose,  the  marigold,  and^  the  campanula,  with 
a  thousand  wild  plants  and  ilowers,  were  all  here,  and 
gave  a  wonderful  freshness  and  sweetness  to  the  scene. 
It  has  all  the  grandeur  of  the  forest,  v/ith  all  the  beauty 
of  the  garden. 

This  delightful  day's  ride  had  not  the  most  pleasant 
close.  We  arrived  at  Lewisbr^rg  late  in  the  evening,  and 
as  all  were  more  or  less  weary,  we  were  eager  in  our  in- 
quiries after  beds.  It  soon  appeared  that  the  court  was 
in  session  here ;  and  this  gave  us  some  alarm.  On  go- 
ing into  the  bar-room  of  our  inn,  I  saw  two  men  fast 
asleep  in  a  large  box,  and  undisturbed  by  all  the  noise 
of  our  arrival ;  this  was  still  more  ominous.  I  hastened 
to  require,  as  I  always  did,  a  single -bedded  room,  hardly 
hoping  to  obtain  it.  The  landlord  assured  me  he  could 
not  accommodate  me.  T  begged  to  see  what  accommo- 
dation he  could  offer.  He  took  me  to  a  room  with  five 
or  six  beds  in  ii ;  there  was  one  bed  unoccupied,  which 
he  assured  me  I  should  have  to  myself;  the  others  had 
already  an  occupant  each,  and  they  were  liable,  if  neces- 
sary, to  have  another  person  introduced  to  them.  This 
kind  of  room  is  deemed  common ;  and  the  guest  who 
cannot  find  a  bed  to  himself,  seeks  to  participate  with 
some  other  party  ;  so  that  it  is  not  very  uncommon  for 
the  man  who  went  quietly  to  sleep  in  sole  possession  of 
his  couch,  to  find,  on  waking,  that  he  has  acquired  a 
companion.  I  turned  away  from  the  spectacle,  and  ex- 
pressed my  resolution  to  sit  up  till  the  coach  started. 
My  landlord,  seeing  me  firm,  disappeared  to  make  some 
arrangements,  and  then  returned  to  say  that  he  was  able 


WHITE    SULPHTJR   SPRINGS. 


145 


ins  in  galle- 
ile  it  towers 
distant  pros- 
!.  Tiie  sec- 
?es,  the  oak, 
ip,  you  find 
shrubs  and 
ood,  the;  rho- 
id  the  straw- 
panula,  with 
11  here,  and 
o  the  scene. 
11  the  beauty 

ost  pleasant 

evening,  and 

[er  in  our  in- 

le  court  was 

m.     On  go- 

ro  men  fast 

11  the  noise 

I  hastened 

room,  hardly 

ne  he  could 

t  accommo- 

m  with  five 

)ied,  which 

others  had 

6,  if  neces- 

Hem.     This 

guest  who 

cipate  with 

ommon  for 

ssession  of 

acquired  a 

le,  and  ex- 

ch  started. 

make  some 

le  was  able 


to  let  me  have  a  double-bedded  room,  if  I  would  not  ob- 
ject that  one  of  my  companions  by  the  stage  should  oc- 
cupy the  second  bed  ;  I  might  rely  on  it  we  should  have 
it  quite  to  ourselves.  I  consented  to  this ;  but  as  the 
good  landlord  was  evidently  much  pressed,  I  chose  to 
place  my  reliance  oh  having  the  key  on  the  right  side  of 
the  door.  To  such  an  arrangement  I  had  been  obliged 
t)  yield  twice  before  ;  but  generally,  even  in  these  unfre- 
quented regions,  you  may  procure  the  luxury  of  a  private 
rhamber. 

If  inconveniences  arose  at  these  houses,  they  were,  as 
we  travelled,  of  very  brief  duration.  We  started  again 
at  daylight  on  our  way  to  Lexington,  in  Virginia.  Most 
of  our  company,  however,  were  to  part  from  the  convey- 
ance at  the  White  Sulphur  Springs,  and  it  was  still  the 
early  morning  when  we  reached  them.  These  springs 
are  finely  situated,  and  are  among  the  most  popular  in 
the  States.  The  accommodations  here  are  all  provided 
by  one  person,  and  are  chiefly  composed  of  one  erection. 
The  rooms  and  refectories,  which  are  in  common,  are 
large  and  imposing,  but  every  thing  else  is  on  a  most 
confined  scale.  Rumour  had  said,  as  we  came  along, 
that  the  place  was  over  full ;  and  our  party,  after  coming 
so  many  hundred  miles,  were  anxious  lest  they  should  te 
rejected.  One  of  them,  on  inquiry,  found  that,  as  a 
favour,  he  might  be  one  of  five  to  share  a  small  sleeping- 
chamber. 

While  many  were  so  eager  to  enter  this  temple  of 
health  and  happiness,  those  who  had  established  them- 
selves did  not  impress  you  with  the  value  of  their  acqui- 
sition. There  were  about  sixty  men  under  the  verandas, 
picking  their  teeth,  crossing  their  legs,  scratching  their 
heads,  yawning,  spitting ;  deep  in  the  blues,  if  appear- 
ances did  not  wholly  deceive  me.  There  is  a  good  deal 
of  gambling  and  dissipatior  here  ;  and  dissipation,  what- 
ever may  be  its  buoyancy  and  brilliancy  at  night,  is  a 
meager,  and  cadaverous,  and  chapfallen  thing  in  the  light 
of  morning.  This,  too,  was  aggravated,  for  the  morning 
was  wet ;  and  a  place  devoted  to  gayety  has,  of  all 

Vol.  I.— G  13 


ii 


146 


JOURNEY. 


■M 


i  .1' 


J; 


If: 


places,  an  air  of  sadness  in  bad  weather.  I  was  not 
sorry  that  I  was  going  forward.  I  tasted  the  waters ; 
saw  Mr.  Clay  ;  and  then  joined  the  coach. 

We  took  up  three  passengers  here,  and  did  not  im- 
prove by  the  exchange ;  they  were  young  men,  and  all 
of  I"  n,  I  fear,  deeply  vsrsed  in  sin.  One,  a  disap- 
poir  J.  lover,  and  seeking  his  cure  in  dissipation  ;  the 
othe.s,  of  good  connexions  and  better  taught,  but  flippant 
in  infidelity,  disrespectful  of  others,  and  shameless  for 
themselves.  All  were  pursuing  pleasure  in  the  gratifi- 
cation of  their  passions,  and  were  mortified  to  find  them- 
selves still  displeased  and  miserable.  Two  of  them,  I 
could  learn,  were  a  living  sorrow  to  their  parents*  I 
made  the  best  of  my  situation  ;  and  received,  at  parting, 
an  apoloe-y  from  one  of  them,  who,  in  the  midst  of  his 
fredoms,  still  wished  to  have  the  reputation  of  a  gen- 
tleman. 

My  attention,  however,  was  still  engaged  with  the  de- 
lightful scenery  ;  and  had  the  weather  allowed,  I  should 
have  suffered  no  deduction  on  the  part  of  my  company. 
We  were  still  among  the  mountains,  and  quickly,  on  leav- 
ing the  springs,  began  to  ascend  them.  These  are,  I 
believe,  strictly  of  the  Allegany  family ;  but  they  are 
not  so  considerable  as  the  Sewell  mountains  which  we 
had  passed.  The  scenery  was  very  similar  to  that  of 
yesterday  ;  if  any  thing,  it  is  even  more  picturesque,  and 
is  greatly  assisted  in  its  effect  by  the  Jackson  river. 
The  lover  of  nature  might  spend  weeks  here,  and  still 
lament  that  he  had  not  weeks  and  months  to  spend. 

Early  in  the  evening  we  came  to  a  cottage  which,  be- 
cause it  receives  the  few  persons  who  travel  this  road, 
is  called  an  inn.  It  has  the  appearance  of  a  private 
dwelling,  which  is  so  Uttle  used,  that  no  pathway  is  worn 
to  it  across  the  verdant  sod ;  and  you  are  received  intc 
the  bosom  of  the  family  with  a  pleasant  confidence.  Tb  . 
dwelling  was  respectable  and  clean ;  its  fore-court  made 
cheerful  by  the  beautiful  althea  and  other  flowers.  I 
secured  a  parlour,  which  had  a  very  comfortable  bed  in 
it  7  and  was  gratified  with  the  prospect  of  something  like 
a  night's  rest. 


h 


:.      t 


TEMPERANCE  HOUSE. 


147 


k 


Tea  or  supper,  as  you  choose  to  call  it,  was  prepared 
for  us.  The  husband  and  wife  took  the  ends  of  the  table, 
and  the  daughter  waited  as  occasion  required.  All  was 
plain ;  but  all  was  good,  and  there  was  an  abundance  of  it; 
fowl,  bacon,  corn-bread,  hot  wheaten  bread,  bilberry-tart, 
honey,  milk,  and  coffee.  But  the  young  men  had  a  quar- 
rel with  it.  It  was  a  temperance  house,  and  there  was 
no  mint-julap,  nor  spirits,  nor  wine  of  any  kind,  to  be  had ; 
nor,  in  fact,  any  chance  of  sport  or  mischief.  I  judged 
horn  the  manners  of  these  people  that  they  *.vere  religious, 
and  was  not  deceived.  I  had  some  pleasant  conversa- 
tion with  the  father ;  and,  on  retiring  to  my  room,  found 
several  good  books  in  the  case  which  adorned  it ;  and 
among  them  Scott's  Family  Bible. 

With  a  good  bed,  a  weary  body,  a  room  to  myself,  and 
the  key  turned  on  it,  I  had  the  prospect  of  a  refreshing 
sleep ;  but  I  was  to  be  again  disappoin'  "d.  Just  as  I 
was  sinking  into  unconsciousness,  I  was  v  jailed  by  all 
sorts  of  scratching,  tumbling,  squeaking  noises  ;  which 
were  renewed  from  time  to  time,  till  my  summons  came 
to  join  the  coach.  I  soon  found  that  the  disturbance  was 
in  the  chimney;  and  afterward  discovered,  that  the 
whole  of  it,  from  the  floor  upwards,  was  sacred  to  the 
house-swallow,  and  that  many  hundreds  had  made  a 
lodgment  in  it.  Some  of  these  lodgings  must  have  been 
insecure,  and  have  given  way,  to  have  created  all  this 
annoyance.  I  did  not  wish  the  innocent  things  to  be 
dispossessed ;  but  perhaps  I  had  a  passing  wish  that 
their  dwellings  had  been  more  lasting — were  it  only  by  a 
single  day. 

We  had  not  more  than  about  twenty  miles  to  reach 
Lexington ;  hut  still,  as  the  custom  is,  we  started  very 
early.  This  distance  was  to  be  filled  in  mostly  by  the 
ascent  and  descent  of  the  North  mountain,  which  stands 
at  the  head  of  the  western  valley  of  Virginia.  I  was  led 
to  expect  that  the  scenery  was  first-rate  ;  and  I  took  my 
seat  with  a  civil  driver  in  order  to  command  it.  Every 
thing  in  the  approach  to  this  mountain  is  beautiful ;  as 
you  ascend  it,  it  becomes  grand ;  and  when  you  come  to 

G3 


148 


THE  GRAND  TURN. 


^ 


i:   i! 


the  highest  parts  of  the  passage,  you  have  indeed  a  most 
commanding  station.  The  morning  would  have  been 
deemed  unfavourable ;  yet  it  assisted  you  with  such  a 
picture  as  you  can  seldom  see,  and  as  you  most  desire  to 
see.  The  atmosphere  was  heavy  and  humid,  and  threat- 
ened rahi;  but  the  eye  could  reach  over  the  whole 
mountain  scenery.  The  thick  mists  of  the  night  found 
no  sun  to  exhale  them ;  and  they  lay  on  all  the  valleys 
like  a  sea  of  sleeping  waters.  The  breasts  of  the 
mountains  rose  above  these  mists,  and  appeared  like  so 
many  rocky  islands  ;  while  the  lighter  mists,  attenuated 
by  the  mountain  breeze,  floated  gracefully  about  their 
heads.  It  was  very  peculiar  and  fascinating ;  and  re- 
minded me  very  pleasantly  of  my  last  visit  to  Snowden^ 
which  at  break  of  day  was  in  a  similar  condition.  I  had 
wished  that  before  we  began  our  descent,  the  sun  might 
rise  on  this  world  of  vapours,  and  present  to  one  all  those 
bewitching  forms  of  unearthly,  aerial,  and  ever-changing 
beauty,  which  entranced  us  in  Wales  ;  but  instead  of  this, 
the  mists  thickened  into  rain,  and  hid  much  of  what  we 
had  seen  from  our  sight. 

Let  me  observe,  however,  that  I  had  afterward  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  this  noble  picture  in  an  opposite 
condition ;  illustrated  by  the  presence  of  a  powerful  and 
glorious  sun.  Now  every  thing  was  to  be  seen,  and  was 
worth  seeing.  The  great  point  of  sight  is  called  the 
Grand  Turn.  It  is  an  angular  projection  from  the  »ide 
of  the  mountain,  and  is  supplied  with  a  low  parapet  of 
loose  stones,  to  protect  you  from  the  precipice  below. 
The  old  jagged  pine  of  the  forest,  which  has  braved  the 
tempest  age  after  age,  stands  up  in  its  clustered  grandeur 
behind  you.  The  lone  and  ravenous  vulture  is  wheeling 
over  your  head  in  search  of  prey.  The  broken  rock- 
work  falls  away  abruptly,  some  eighty  feet  immediately 
beneath  your  standing,  and  then  runs  down  in  softer  lines 
to  the  glens  below.  You  look  to  the  left,  and  there 
stand,  in  all  their  majesty,  the  everlasting  mountains, 
which  you  have  traversed  one  by  one,  and  sketching  on 
the  blue  sky  one  of  the  finest  outlines  you  ever  beheld. 


THE  FOREST. 


149 


\t^ 


You  look  to  the  right,  and  there  lies  expanded  before  you 
one  of  the  richest  and  most  lovely  valleys  which  this  vast 
country  boasts.  You  look  opposite  to  you,  and  the 
great  and  prominent  mountains  just  break  away  so  as  to 
form  the  foreground  to  a  yet  more  distant  prospect,  which 
is  bathed  in  sunlight  and  in  mist,  promising  to  be  equal 
to  any  thing  you  see.  Everywhere,  above,  around, 
beneath,  was  the  great,  the  beautiful,  the  interminable 
forest.  Nothing  impressed  me  so  much  as  this.  The 
forest  had  often  surrounded  and  overwhelmed  me  ;  I  had 
never  before  such  command  of  it.  In  a  State  so  long 
settled,  I  had  expected  to  see  comparatively  little  of  it ; 
but  there  it  was,  spreading  itself  all  around  like  a  dark 
green  ocean,  and  on  which  the  spots  that  were  cleared 
and  cultivated  only  stood  out  like  sunny  islets  which 
adorned  its  bosom. 

On  the  whole,  I  had,  as  you  will  see,  be<)n  travelling 
for  three  days  over  most  delightful  country.  For  160 
miles  you  pass  through  a  gallery  of  pictures  most  exqui- 
site, most  varied,  most  beautiful.  The  ride  will  not  suf- 
fer in  comparison  with  a  run  along  the  finest  portions  of 
the  Rhine,  or  our  own  drive  from  Shrewsbury  to  Bangor. 
It  is  often  indeed  compared  with  Switzerland ;  but  that 
is  foolish ;  the  best  scenery  in  that  land  is  of  another 
and  a  higher  class.  I  was  not  at  all  aware  that  I  should 
be  thus  gratified;  and  therefore  perhaps  had  the  more 
gratification.  I  am  thankful  that  I  have  seen  it ;  and  for 
the  same  reasons  that  I  am  thankful  to  have  seen  some- 
thing of  the  west;  because  they  contribute  greatly  to 
form  just  conceptions  of  America. 

Before  I  dismiss  this  portion  of  my  excursion,  let  me 
observe,  that  there  is  an  excellent  road  recently  cut  over 
this  mountain,  and  into  Lexington.  It  embraces  alto- 
gether an  extent  of  forty  miles,  and  is  no  small  achieve- 
ment ;  and  the  praise  of  it  is  due  to  the  spirited  inhabi- 
tants of  the  town.  Perhaps  I  should  not  say  this  without 
referring  to  the  share  the  Government  takes  in  it.  If, 
generally,  a  plan  for  local  improvement  is  acceptable  to 
the  Government,  it  agrees  to  take  two  fifths  of  the  res'ion- 

13* 


150 


tEXINOTON. 


^'r   .1 


sibility,  while  the  residents  take  the  remaining  three  fifths. 
The  Government  also  receives  its  proportion  of  the  profits ; 
and  these  profits  replenish  a  fund  for  general  improve- 
ment. I  have  frequently  referred  to  the  roads,  and  with 
complaint ;  but  let  ir.e  not  be  misunderstood.  It  is  true 
that  many  of  them  are  very  bad,  and  bring  much  suffering 
to  the  traveller ;  but  the  real  wonder  is,  that,  under  all 
circumstances,  they  are  so  good  and  so  numerous.  Never, 
in  any  other  country,  was  there  so  much  done  in  so  short 
a  period.  Rail-roads  and  steamboats  are  now  come  to 
their  help,  and  perhaps  to  their  salvation ;  for  certainly 
it  has  not  been  sufficiently  considered,  that  it  is  a  source 
of  national  weakness,  and  not  of  strength,  to  have  a  spare 
population  scattered  over  an  immense  territory. 

About  eleven  o'clock  in  the  day  we  drove  into  Lex* 
ington.  Mr.  Carruthers,  whom  I  had  known  at  the  Gen- 
eral Assembly,  saw  me  as  we  passed,  and  kindly  followed 
the  stage  to  the  inn,  to  request  that  I  would  consider  his 
house  my  home.  I  had  travelled  a  week  without  a  fair 
night's  rest.  Th^s  is  the  great  source  of  exhaustion  here, 
and  it  is  wholly  the  fault  of  the  stage  proprietors.  With 
the  same  roads,  and  with  the  same  cattle,  you  might  go 
the  same  distance  in  the  same  time,  and  save  all  your 
nights ;  and,  of  course,  most  of  your  fatigue. 


rn 


l\ 


' !    i 


'  '  -  ^'', 


LETTER  XV. 

My  dcar  Friknd, 
I  HAD  no  sooner  arrived  at  Mr.  Carruthers's  than  my 
esteemed  friend,  the  Rev.  J.  Douglas,  called  on  me. 
He  was  pastor  of  the  Presbyterian  Church  here,  and  we 
had  formed  a  friendship  when  he  visited  England  as  an 
invalid,  and  spent  some  time  in  my  family.  I  now  ex- 
pected pleasure  and  information  in  his  society  for  a  short 
period.     As  the  ensuing  day  was  the  Sabbath,  he  very 


»      i  I 


ree  fifths. 

le  profits ; 

improve- 

and  with 

It  is  true 

suffering 

under  all 

1.    Never, 

1  so  short 

r  come  to 

certainly 

a  source 

re  a  spare 

into  Lex- 
the  Gen- 
^  followed 
nsider  his 
lOut  a  fair 
tion  here, 
•s.  With 
might  go 
all  your 


than  my 
1  on  me. 
e,  and  we 
md  as  an 
[  now  ex- 
3r  a  short 
1,  he  very 


i 


SABBATH  AT  LEXINGTON. 


161 


considerately  excused  my  preacliing,  on  condition  that  I 
would,  on  a  following  day,  allow  myself  to  le  announced 
for  an  extra  service.  I  was  the  more  obliged  for  this,  as 
it  would  supply  me  with  an  opportunity  of  hearing,  which 
I  always  coveted. 

On  the  morning  of  the  Sabbath,  I  attended  an  interest- 
ing service  at  my  friend's  church.  It  was  placed  at  the 
head  of  the  town,  on  elevated  ground,  commanding  a 
pretty  view  of  it,  and  of  the  fine  blue  mountains  in  the 
distance.  It  had  a  paddock  attached  to  it  for  the  use  of 
the  horses  during  the  time  of  worship,  and  there  were 
from  forty  to  fifty  now  occupying  it.  All  the  persons 
who  came  in  from  the  vicinity  came  on  horseback  ;  and 
the  horses  are  nearly  as  numerous  as  the  people  of  these 
parts.  The  church  has  five  doors,  and  these  and  all  the 
windows  were  open  in  consequence  of  !he  heat  of  the 
weather.  This  created  some  distraction  to  the  congre- 
gation. Besides,  there  were  fans  in  motion  everywhere, 
and  small  kegs  full  of  water,  with  ladles,  wc  re  placed  in 
the  window-seats  and  beneath  the  pulpit,  which  were 
used  by  the  children,  not  only  before,  but  during  the  ser- 
vice, and  this  caught  the  attention  of  a  stranger,  but  did 
not  seem  much  to  discompose  the  people.  The  galleries 
were  mostly  occupied  by  blacks.  The  general  attend- 
ance was  good ;  the  congregation  wore  a  serious  com- 
plexion ;  but  there  were  not  wanting  some  instances  of 
negligent  and  irreverent  manners. 

A  recent  attempt  to  produce  a  revival  here  had  been 
made  by  an  itinerant  revivalist ;  but  it  had  failed.  I 
took  pains  to  acquaint  myself  with  it.  My  conclusion 
was,  that  it  was  a  harsh  and  indiscreet  affair ;  not  pro- 
ducing even  the  effects  it  sought,  and  working  to  the 
disadvantage  of  religion,  both  with  its  friends  and  ene- 
mies.    This  was  certaiply  Mr.  Douglas's  opinion. 

I  learned  that  in  the  afternoon  there  would  be  worship 
at  the  African  Church,  and  I  resolved  to  go.  My  obli- 
ging friend,  Mr.  Carruthers,  attended  me.  The  building, 
called  a  church,  is  without  the  town,  and  placed  in  a 
hollow,  80  as  to  be  out  of  sight ;  it  is,  in  the  fullest 


152 


AFRICAN    CHURCH. 


J 


.  i  ,  i 


sense,  "  without  the  gate."  It  is  a  poor  log-house, 
built  by  the  hands  of  the  negroes,  and  so  placed  as  to 
show  that  they  must  worship  by  stealth.  It  is,  perhaps, 
20  by  25  ;  with  boarding  and  rails  breast-high,  run  round 
three  sides,  so  as  to  form  galleries.  To  this  is  added  a 
lean-to,  to  take  the  overplus,  when  the  fine  weather 
should  admit  of  larger  numbers.  There  were  three  small 
openings,  besides  the  door  and  the  chinks  in  the  build- 
ing, to  admit  light  and  air.  The  place  was  quite  full, 
the  women  and  men  were  arranged  on  opposite  sides ; 
and  although  on  a  cold  or  rainy  day  there  might  have 
been  much  discomfort,  the  impression  now  was  very 
pleasing.  In  the  presence  of  a  powerful  sun,  the  whole 
body  were  in  strong  shadow ;  and  the  light  streaming 
through  the  warped  and  broken  shingle  on  the  glistening 
black  faces  of  the  people,  filled  the  spectacle  with  ani- 
mation. I  had  taken  my  place  by  the  door,  and  was 
waiting  the  commencement. 

By  the  law  of  the  State,  no  coloured  persons  are  per- 
mitted to  assemble  for  worship,  unless  a  white  person  be 
present  and  preside.  On  this  account,  the  elders  of  Mr. 
Douglas's  church  attend  in  turn,  that  the  poor  people 
may  not  lose  the  privileges  they  prize.  At  this  time,  two 
whites  and  two  blacks  were  in  the  pulpit.  One  of  the 
blacks,  addressing  me  as  their  "  Strange  master,"  begged 
that  I  would  take  charge  of  the  service.  I  declined  doing 
so.  He  gave  out  Dr.  Watts's  beautiful  Psalm,  "  Show 
pity.  Lord  ;  O  Lord,  forgive,"  &c.  They  all  rose  immedi- 
ately. They  had  no  books,  for  they  could  not  read  ;  but 
it  was  printed  on  their  memory,  and  they  sang  it  off  with 
freedom  and  feeling.  There  is  much  melody  in  their 
voice  ;  and  when  they  enjoy  a  hymn,  there  is  a  raised 
expression  of  the  face,  and  an  undulating  motion  of  the 
body,  keeping  time  with  the  music,  which  is  very  touch- 
ing. 

One  of  the  elders  then  prayed  ;  and  the  other  followed 
him,  by  reading  and  exposition  of  Scripture.  The  pas- 
sage was  on  relative  and  social  duties  ;  and  I  could  not 
avoid  observing  how  it  reflected  on  the  conduct  of  the 


I 

I 


og-house, 
ccd  as  to 
,  perhaps, 
run  round 
9  added  a 

weather 
iree  small 
the  build- 
[uite  full, 
te  sides ; 
ght  have 
was  very 
;he  whole 
streaming 
Qrlistening 
with  ani- 

and  was 

»  are  per- 
person  be 
irs  of  Mr. 
)r  people 
ime,  two 
ne  of  the 
"  begged 
led  doing 
•*  Show 
immedi- 
ead ;  but 
t  off  with 
in  their 
a  raised 
n  of  the 
y  touch- 
followed 
The  pas- 
:ould  not 
:t  of  the 


i 


AFRICAN    CHURCH. 


153 


; 


I 


white,  and  pleaded  for  the  poor  slave.  They  sang  again, 
"  Come,  we  that  love  the  Lord,"  and  with  equal  freedom 
and  pleasure.  The  senior  black,  who  was  a  preacher 
among  them,  then  offered  prayer,  and  preached.  His 
prayer  was  humble  and  devotional.  In  one  portion  of  it, 
he  made  an  affecting  allusion  to  their  wrongs.  *'  Thou 
knowest,"  said  the  good  man,  with  a  broken  voice, 
"  our  state — that  it  is  the  meanest — that  we  are  as  mean 
and  low  as  men  can  be.  But  we  have  sinned — we  have 
forfeited  all  our  rights  to  Thee — and  we  would  8ubm.t 
before  Thee  to  these  marks  of  thy  displeasure." 

He  took  for  the  text  of  his  sermon  those  wor  is, 
"  The  Spirit  saith,  come,"  &c.  He  spoke  with  connex- 
ion uf  our  original  distance  ;  of  the  means  provided  for 
our  approach  and  redemption — of  the  invitation  a.-^ 
founded  on  these — and  closed  by  an  earnest  and  well- 
sustained  appeal  to  them  to  act  on  the  gracious  Invita- 
tion. "  Ah,  sirs !"  he  exclaimed,  "  do  you  ask,  what  it 
is  to  come  '!  Oh,  it  is  to  know  your  own  weakness  ;  it 
is  to  know  your  own  unworthiness ;  it  is  to  know  that 
you  are  sinners,  and  ready  to  fall  into  hell  for  your  sins ; 
it  is  to  fly  to  Jesus  Christ  as  your  help  and  your  Saviour ; 
and  to  cry,  *  Lord,  save,  or  I  perish  !' — To  come  !  Oh, 
it  is  to  fall  down  at  his  feet — to  receive  him  as  your  new 
Master — to  become  new  creatures — and  to  live  a  new 
life  of  faith  and  obedience,"  &c. — "  O,  sirs !"  he  con- 
tinued, '^  that  you  would  come  !  How  can  I  persuade 
you  to  come !  I  have  seen  the  good  and  the  evil.  I 
have  seen  the  Christian  dying,  and  I  have  seen  the 
sinner  dying."  He  spoke  of  both  ;  and  then  xef.  r^f^  to 
his  own  experience — the  change  rehgion  had  wir.ia  in 
him — ^the  happiness  he  had  had  since  he  knew  it — the 
desire  he  had  that  they  should  be  happy  likewise.  It 
was  indeed  a  very  earnest  and  efficient  appeal. 

Mr.  Carruthers  kindly  reminded  me,  as  he  paused, 
that  it  was  time  to  leave,  if  I  fulfilled  my  intention  of 
going  to  the  Presbyterian  Church.  But  I  felt  I  could  not 
leave  before  the  close.  I  could  have  done  so  in  ordinary 
circumstances ;  but  I  could  not  bring  myself  to  do  any 

G  3 


154 


THE    BLACKS. 


If 


'     H 


thing  that  might  seem  disrespectful  to  this  band  of  de- 
spised and  oppressed  Christians. 

The  other  man  of  colour  followed  with  a  spontaneous 
address,  meant  to  sustain  the  impression.  He  had 
some  conceit  and  forwardness  in  his  manner,  but  much 
point  in  what  he  said.  He  concluded  by  noticing  what 
had  been  doing  among  them  lately ;  and  by  calling  on 
those  who  were  really  concerned  to  come  to  the  Saviour, 
to  show  it  by  occupying  the  anxious  seat.  They  sang 
again ;  and,  while  singing,  some  forms  before  the  pulpit 
were  cleared,  and  about  twelve  persons  knelt  down  at 
them  with  great  seriousness  of  manner.  There  was  no 
confusion,  and  the  act  of  coming  out  does  perhaps  less 
violence  to  their  feeUngs,  as  they  are  a  small  body,  and 
are  on  an  equality.  One  of  the  elders  now  took  the 
matter  into  his  hands,  and  offered  prayer.  Had  he 
sought  to  cool  down  the  state  of  feeling,  it  could  not 
have  been  better  done.  But  there  was  no  need  for  this  ; 
for  there  was  no  extravagance.  They  then  rose,  and 
sang,  and  separated.  This  was  the  first  time  I  had 
worshipped  with  an  assembly  of  slaves ;  and  I  shall 
never  forget  it.  I  was  certainly  by  sympathy  bound 
with  those  who  were  bound  ;  while  I  rejoiced,  on  their 
account,  afresh  in  that  divine  truth,  which  makes  us  free 
indeed,  which  lifts  the  soul  on  high,  unconscious  of  a 
chain. 

Much  has  been  said,  and  is  still  said,  about  the  essen- 
tial inequality  of  the  races.  That  is  a  question  which 
must  be  settled  by  experiment.  Here  the  experiment 
was  undoubtedly  in  favour  of  the  blacks.  In  sense  and 
in  feeling,  both  in  prayer  and  address,  they  were  equal 
to  the  whites  ;  and  in  free  and  pointed  expression  much 
superior.  Indeed,  I  know  not  that  while  I  was  in  Amer- 
ica, I  listened  to  a  peroration  of  an  address  that  was 
superior  to  the  one  I  have  briefly  noted  to  you. 

On  leaving,  we  found  we  were  too  late  for  our  first 
purpose  ;  but  as  the  Methodists  were  just  assembling  for 
service,  I  expressed  a  wish  to  unite  with  them.  There 
were  few  persons  present:  not  more  than  150.     A  gen- 


•I 


i: 


','  I 


'i   ! 


-..^i'-- 


LEXINGTOIf. 


155 


id  of  de- 

ntaneous 
He  had 
lut  much 
ing  what 
ailing  on 
Saviour, 
hey  sang 
he  pulpit 

down  at 
e  was  no 
laps  less 
)ody,  and 
took  the 

Had  he 
;ould  not 
I  for  this ; 
rose,  and 
ne  I  had 
i  I  shall 
ly  bound 
,  on  their 
!S  us  free 
ious  of  a 

le  cssen- 
jn  which 
cperiment 
lense  and 
ere  equal 
ion  much 
in  Amer- 
that  was 

our  first 
ibling  for 
There 
A  gen- 


tleman, one  of  their  local  preachers,  took  the  duties  of 
the  pulpit.  The  services  in  his  hands  were  very  unin- 
teresting. He  had  much  conceit,  poor  wit,  and  many 
words  ;  and  all  he  said  was  gabbled  and  uttered  seem- 
ingly by  rote.  His  address  abounded  with  such  plumed 
and  wise  expressions  as — "  1  put  it  to  your  rationality — 
white-robed  angels  of  light — your  spirit  shall  flutter 
before  God  in  never-ending  bliss" — and  "  when  you 
hear  the  clods  of  the  valley  tumbling  on  your  coffin." 
It  was  a  sorry  affair,  and  in  contrast  with  what  I  had 
just  witnessed.  This,  however,  is  no  specimen  of  the 
average  means  possessed  by  this  people. 

On  the  Tuesday  afternoon,  I  preached,  as  had  been 
ananged,  to  a  considerable  and  attentive  congregation. 
I  baptized  also  two  children,  by  Mr.  Douglas's  per- 
mission, and  at  the  request  of  the  parents.  One  was 
the  infant  son  of  the  Rev.  James  Payne,  who  was 
named  after  Henry  Martyn.  Mr.  Payne  has  laboured 
with  much  success  in  this  vicinity. 

I  had  much  pleasing  and  profitable  intercourse  with 
the  Christian  friends  here ;  and  it  must  be  considered 
that  the  state  of  religion  among  the  people  is  good.  The 
population  of  the  town  is  not  above  1,000,  yet  there  are 
three  places  of  worship.  The  Presbyterian  reckons 
about  500  attendants  and  300  members ;  the  Methodist, 
about  300,  and  200  members ;  and  the  African,  about 
150,  and  60  members.  In  the  Sunday  schools,  there 
are  about  250  children.  A  lady  told  me,  I  think,  that 
there  was  no  mother  of  a  family  who  was  not  a  member 
of  some  church.  The  Temperance  cause  has  worked 
beneficially  here.  There  were  nine  spirit  stores,  now 
there  is  only  one ;  indeed,  it  was  the  custom  to  have 
water  and  spirits  on  the  counter  of  every  store,  to  be 
used  at  pleasure  ;  th^s  custom  has  now  disappeared. 

The  town,  as  a  settlement,  has  many  attractions.  It 
is  surrounded  by  beauty,  and  stands  at  the  head  of  a 
valley,  flowing  with  milk  and  honey.  House  rent  is 
low;  provisions  are  cheap,  abundant,  and  of  the  best 
quality.     Flowers  and  gardens  are   more  prized  here 


M. 


■'t- 


^. 


^■ 


156 


\   EXCURSION. 


!  .i  ii.  ^ 


H 


nit 


.  p-i 


i  /[. 


I!  :  • 


S  M    ! 


.l»' 


I 


than  in  most  places ;  and  by  consequence  the  humming* 
bird  is  found  in  larger  numbers.  That  beautiful  little 
creature  has  much  the  habits  and  appearance  of  the  bee ; 
and  the  trumpet  honey-suckle  seems  to  be  a  favourite 
plant,  on  account  of  its  cell  being  enriched  with  honey. 

At  the  request  of  Mr.  Douglas,  I  made  an  excursion 
to  visit  his  friends,  and  to  inspect  Weyer's  Cave.  This 
cave  is  esteemed  one  of  the  greatest  natural  curiosities  ; 
occasionally,  it  is  lighted  up  by  some  3,000  or  3,000 
candles,  for  the  accommodation  of  visiters  ;  and  this 
was  to  happen  just  at  this  time.  We  were  a  party  of 
five,  and  started  early  in  the  morning,  with  a  four-wheeled 
chaise  and  two  saddle-horses.  We  halted  at  Colonel 
M'Dowell's,  hoping  to  bait  both  ourselves  and  cattle 
there.  The  colonel  is  a  man  of  large  property  and 
high  connexions  ;  he  has  a  son  in  the  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives, and  a  son-in-law  in  the  Senate.  We  were 
most  kindly  received. 

The  day  was  hot,  about  90°  ;  and  we  were  in  the 
hall.  It  had,  as  is  frequently  the  case,  the  dimensions 
of  a  room,  and  was  supplied  with  sofa,  chairs,  and 
table.  It  is  preferred  at  this  season,  because  of  its 
greater  coolness  ;  and  it  is  not  uncommon  to  see  the 
whole  family  occupied  in  it  and  the  porch,  or  portico,  on 
a  fine  evening.  This,  with  the  naked  foot,  the  fan,  and 
the  lighter  dress,  illustrate  some  of  the  eastern  manners 
and  historical  descriptions  of  sacred  Scripture.  We 
partook  of  an  excellent  repast ;  and,  refreshed  in  body 
and  spirit,  proceeded  on  our  way,  after  having  given  a 
promise  that  we  would  use  their  house  in  our  return. 
The  colonel's  lady,  addressing  me  as  the  stranger, 
"  could  not  consent  to  an  Englishman  passing  their  door." 

In  the  evening,  we  sought  to  shorten  our  way,  and  lost 
ourselves  in  the  woods.  This  gave  us  some  perplexity 
and  some  amusement.  It  made  us,  however,  late,  and 
our  cattle  weary  ;  and,  as  we  had  still  to  ford  a  river,  it 
gave  us  some  concern.  At  nightfall,  we  reached  it ; 
but  at  the  ' vrong  place.  We  attempted  it ;  it  was  al- 
most unfordable.     The  waters  were  high,  and  they  ran 


; 


III 

ii 


CAPTAIN   hall's. 


157 


umming- 

ful  little 

the  bee ; 

favourite 

h  honey. 

xcursion 

This 

riosities ; 

or  3,000 

and  this 

party  of 

wheeled 

Colonel 

id  cattle 

erty  and 

Repre- 

We  were 

re  in  the 
mensions 
ciirs,  and 
!ie  of  its 

0  see  the 
Drtico,  on 

1  fan,  and 
manners 

re.      We 

i  in  body 

g  given  a 

iir  return. 

stranger, 

eir  door." 

,  and  lost 

)erplexity 

late,  and 

a  river,  it 

iched  it ; 

i  was  al- 

they  ran 


,1 


I 


over  the  horse's  back,  and  into  the  carriage,  so  that  our 
feet  and  luggage  were  standing  in  water.  We  urged 
the  horse  to  the  utmost,  and  we  succeeded ;  but,  with 
a  tired  animal  and  a  heavy  carriage,  the  experiment 
was  full  of  hazard. 

In  our  wet  condition,  and  in  the  dark  night,  we  came 
to  Captain  Hall's,  to  solicit  hospitality.  It  was  not 
asked  in  vain.  The  captain  is  a  farmer ;  and,  as  he 
was  expecting  no  one,  his  principal  room  was  converted 
into  a  carpenter's  shop ;  but  we  were  offered  the  best 
that  circumstances  allowed.  I  retired  early  to  rest. 
My  attendant  was  a  little  slave.  The  child  was  distant 
at  first ;  but  was  quickly  encouraged  by  a  kind  word  or 
look.  He  was  very  anxious  to  explore  my  dressing- 
case,  and  to  get  the  names  of  things.  The  watch  was 
familiar  to  him  ;  but  he  could  not  understand  what  the 
compass  was,  and  seemed  afraid  of  it.  He  was  inquis- 
itive to  know,  but  very  careful  in  touching  things.  I 
found  him  at  my  bedside  in  the  early  morning,  still 
seeking  to  obtain  information,  and  to  show  some  atten- 
tions. My  rest  would,  I  doubt  not,  have  been  fair,  but 
for  one  source  of  interruption.  I  had  left  my  window 
open  for  the  sake  of  air,  expecting  no  evil ;  but  the  cats 
must  have  used  it  for  their  gambols,  for  they  were  cour- 
sing about  my  chamber  all  night  most  disagreeably.  If 
in  no  other  way  haunted,  it  was  certainly  a  strange,  and, 
I  suppose,  accustomed  haunt  of  the  cats. 

Once  out  of  the  path,  how  difficult  it  is  to  return ! 
We  started  again  very  early,  but  we  still  lost  our  way, 
and  expected  to  arrive  at  the  Cave,  after  all  our  pains, 
too  late  for  the  spectacle.  We  reached  the  spot  about 
one  o'clock.  The  party  of  visiters  had  been,  and  were 
just  sitting  down  to  dinner.  But  the  lights  were  burn- 
ing, and  the  guides  were  willing ;  and  this  was,  to  my 
taste,  the  very  time  to  see  it,  free  from  the  noise  and 
confusion  of  two  hundred  visiters.  So,  turning  our 
back  on  the  dinner,  away  we  went. 

The  cave  is  found  in  a  ridge  of  limestone  hills,  run- 
ning parallel  with  the  Blue  Ridge.     In  going  to  it,  you 

14 


# 


'(    ; 


158 


WEYER  S    CAVE. 


if'   ' 


«i   I 


r' 


\ii4 


.'I'l 


pass  by  Madison's  Cave,  which  was  once  an  object  of 
much  interest,  but  is  now  neglected,  from  the  greater 
attractions  of  the  one  we  are  about  to  explore.  You 
ascend  the  side  of  the  hill  by  a  zigzag  path  of  about 
150  yards  long,  and  then  find  yourself  opposite  a  wooden 
door,  which  i^  the  entrance,  and  having  a  bench,  on 
which  you  res%  f^  get  cool,  or  to  prepare  otherwise  for 
ingress.  Having  passed  the  door,  you  find  yourself  in  a 
small  cave,  which  may  be  regarded  as  a  lobby  to  the 
whole  apartments.  With  raised  expectations,  you  look 
about  you,  by  the  aid  of  the  daylight,  which  is  strug- 
gling to  enter,  for  some  openings  more  considerable. 
All  that  you  see,  however,  is  the  mouth  of  what  appears 
a  dark  recess  about  four  feet  square ;  and  you  are  told 
this  is  your  passage  onward.  You  have  no  alternative, 
but  to  double  yourself  up  into  the  smallest  possible  di- 
mensions, and  move  along,  after  the  lights  of  your  guides, 
as  well  as  you  may,  by  the  assistance  of  your  hand? . 

Having  scrambled  along  for  about  twenty-five  feet,  you 
come  into  some  larger  openings,  which  allow  you  the 
free  use  of  your  person.  You  look  upward  and  around 
you,  and  find  yourself  surrounded  by  the  most  grotesque 
figures,  formed,  through  ages,  by  the  percolation  of  the 
waters  through  the  heavy  arches  of  rocii  work  over  your 
head ;  while  the  eye,  glancing  onward,  catches  the  dim 
and  distant  glimmer  of  the  lights — some  in  the  deeps  be- 
low, and  some  in  the  galleries  above.  On  quitting  these 
smaller  rooms  and  galleries,  you  enter  an  ascending  pas- 
sage, of  easy  access ;  and  on  coming  to  its  extremity, 
you  see  the  opening  of  a  large  cavern  spread  before  you, 
and  the  commencement  of  some  step??  by  which  you  are 
to  descend.  Your  care  is  engaged  in  getting  safely 
down  ;  but  when  you  have  obtained  your  standing  on  the 
floor,  you  are  delighted  to  find  yourself  in  a  large  cavern, 
of  irregular  formation,  and  full  of  wild  beauty.  It  is 
about  thirty  by  fifty  feet,  and  is  called  Solomon's  Temple. 
The  incrustations  become  finer  here.  At  your  ri^ht 
hand,  they  hang  just  like  a  sheet  of  water  that  had  been 
frozen  as  it  fell.     There  they  rise  before  you  in  a  beau- 


I  4 


f  I 


I'll 


CAVERN. 


159 


object  of 
e  greater 
re.     You 
of  about 
a  wooden 
)ench,  on 
rwise  for 
irself  in  a 
by  to  the 
you  look 
is  Strug- 
siderable. 
tt  appears 
I  are  told 
Iternative, 
issible  di- 
ur  guides, 
handf . 
e  feet,  you 
IV  you  the 
nd  around 
grotesque 
ion  of  the 
over  your 
s  the  dim 
I  deeps  be- 
tting these 
nding  pas- 
extremity, 
)efore  you, 
ch  you  are 
ing  safely 
ling  on  the 
rge  cavern, 
ity.     It  is 
's  Temple, 
your  rijjht 
t  had  been 
in  a  beau- 


tiful stalactitic  pillar ;  and  yonder  they  compose  an  ele- 
vated seat,  surrounded  by  sparry  pinnacles,  which  sparkle 
beautifully  in  the  light.  The  one  is  called  Solomon's 
Throne,  and  the  other  his  Pillar. 

On  leaving  the  Temple,  you  enter  another  room  more 
irregular,  but  more  beautiful.  Besides  having  ornaments 
in  common,  it  spreads  over  you  a  roof  of  most  admirable 
and  singular  formation.  It  is  entirely  covered  with 
stalactites,  which  are  suspended  from  it  like  inverted 
pinnacles.  They  are  of  the  finest  material,  and  are  most 
b.  autifuUy  shaped  and  embossed. 

You  now  make  an  ascent  of  several  feet,  and  move 
along  a  passage,  and  through  two  or  three  lobbies,  and 
come  to  what  is  called  the  Twin-room,  and  find  your  way 
is  just  on  the  verge  of  a  dark  cavern,  which  is  yawning 
at  your  feet,  and  is  named  the  Devil's  Oven.  A  descent 
is  now  made  of  some  difficulty,  and  from  an  elevation  of 
about  forty  feet ;  and  you  enter  a  large  room,  which  is 
called  the  Tanyard.  This,  like  some  of  the  rest,  is  an 
absurd  name  ;  but  it  has  been  adopted  from  the  force  of 
association.  There  are  in  the  rocky  floor  of  this  room 
large  cavities,  which  may  be  thought  to  resemble  the  tan- 
pits  ;  and  from  the  ceiling  are  suspended  large  sheets  of 
beautiful  stalactites,  which  resemble  the  tanner's  hides. 
You  advance  to  an  upper  floor  in  this  room,  which  has 
chiefly  one  ornam.dnt,  and  that  is  sufficient.  There  is, 
extending  along  the  room,  and  from  roof  to  floor,  an  im- 
mense sheet  of  the  finest  stalactite.  When  it  is  struck 
with  the  hand,  it  emits  deep  and  mellow  sounds,  like 
those  of  a  muffled  drum,  and  isi  called  the  Drum-room. 

You  now  rise  by  some  natural  steps  to  a  platform, 
which  you  have  again  to  descend,  and  then  find  yourself 
in  what  is  named  the  Ball-room.  It  is  a  handsome  and 
large  apartment,  about  100  feet  long,  36  wide,  and  26 
high.  Its  floor  is  so  level  as  to  admit  of  dancing,  and 
it  has  been  used  for  this  purpose  There  is  in  the  centre 
of  it  a  large  calcareous  deposite,  which  has  received  the 
name  of  Faganini's  Statue  ;  the  whole  room  is  relieved 
b^  grotesque  concretions ;  and  the  effect  of  the  lights 


160 


CAVERN. 


•    I 

;     i 
i 


Ij 


111 


!i^  1  r 


% 


I    ! 


burning  at  every  elevation,  and  leaving  hidden  more  than 
they  revealed,  is  exceedingly  fine. 

From  the  Ballroom  you  make  an  ascent  of  40  feet. 
This  is  named  Frenchman's  Hill;  from  the  circum'^ttmce 
that  a  visiter  from  1^'rance,  with  his  guide,  had  their  lights 
extinguished  at  this  spot.  Happily,  the  guide  -vad  sue  ii  an 
accurate  knowledge  of  the  locality,  that,  after  much  dif- 
ficulty, they  got  safely  back,  a  distance  of  more  than  500 
feet.  You  wind  your  way  through  passages,  and  make 
a  descent  of  nearly  30  feet,  by  what  is  known  as  Jacob's 
Ladder,  with  pits  and  CRverns  opening  about  you,  and 
come  into  the  Senate  Chamber,  and  afterwrard  to  Cor- 
gress  Hall.  The  last  is  a  fine  room,  very  like  the  Bali 
rooi\',  but  with  an  uneven  floor.  As  you  leave  it,  an  im- 
mense cavern  spreads  itself  before  you,  with  the  dim 
lights  gier,;ning  over  its  mouth,  so  as  to  make  its  un- 
faihomed  darknes;s  horrible.  You  gaze  on  it  with  amaze- 
ment, and  instinctively  long  to  pass  on,  lest  it  should 
drink  you  up.  It  has  received  the  name  of  "  Infernal 
Regions."  By  another  lobby,  and  another  descent,  you 
enter  Washington  Hall.  This  is  the  most  wonderful 
opening  of  the  whole.  It  is  250  feet  long,  and  33  feet 
high.  There  is  a  fine  sheet  of  rock-work  running  up  the 
centre  of  this  room,  and  giving  it  the  aspect  of  two 
separate  and  noble  galleries,  till  you  look  above,  where 
you  observe  the  partition  rises  only  20  feet  towards  the 
roof,  and  leaves  the  fine  arch  expanding  over  your  head 
untouched.  There  is  a  beautiful  concretion  here  stand- 
ing out  in  the  room,  whicn  certainly  has  the  form  and 
drapery  of  a  gigantic  statue ;  it  bears  the  name  of  the 
Nation's  Hero,  and  the  whole  place  is  filled  with  those 
projections,  appearances  which  excite  the  imagination  by 
suggesting  resemblances,  and  leaving  them  unfinished. 
The  general  effect,  too,  was  perhaps  indescribable. 
The  fine  perspective  of  this  room,  four  times  the  length 
of  an  Ordinary  church ;  the  numerous  tapers,  when  near 
you,  so  encumbered  by  deep  shadows  as  to  give  only  a 
dim  religious  light ;  and  when  at  a  distance,  appearing^ 
in  their  various  attitudes  like  twinkling  stars  on  a  deep 


i 


'♦ 


CAVERN. 


161 


^: 


dark  heaven ;  the  amazing  vaulted  roof  spread  over  you, 
with  its  carved  and  knotted  surface,  to  which  the  stream- 
ing hghts  below  in  vain  endeavoured  to  convey  their 
radiance  ;  together  with  the  impression  that  you  had 
made  so  deep  an  entrance,  and  were  so  entirely  cut  off 
from  the  living  world  and  ordinary  things  ;  produces  an 
effect  which,  perhaps,  the  mind  can  receive  but  once,  and 
will  retain  for  ever. 

On  leaving  these  striking  apartments,  you  pass  through 
a  passage  in  which  is  standing  some  grand  formations, 
named  Cleopatra's  Needle  and  the  Pyramids ;  and  then 
enter  a  room  called  the  Church.  The  appearances  in 
this  instance  suggest  the  name.  It  has  about  the  dimen- 
sions of  a  church,  and  has  an  elevation  of  about  50  feet. 
There  is  at  one  end  an  elevated  recess,  which  has  the 
air  of  a  gallery.  At  the  back  of  this  gallery  there  are  a 
number  of  pendent  stalactites,  of  an  unusual  size  and 
beauty.  They  are  as  large  as  the  pipes  of  a  full-sized 
organ,  and  are  ranged  similarly.  They  emit,  when 
struck,  mellow  sounds  of  various  keys  ;  and  if  a  stick  is 
run  over  them,  as  we  run  the  finger  over  musical  glasses, 
they  make  pleasant  music.  There  is  nothing  forced  in 
giving  this  instrument  the  appellation  of  organ  ;  it  is  one 
of  the  best  that  nature  ever  made  ;  and  the  most  remark- 
able that  I  ever  beheld.  At  the  other  extremity  there 
rises  from  the  ground  (not  stuck  on  a  roof,  as  we  fre- 
quently see)  a  beautiful  spire  of  considerable  height ;  and 
this  is  the  steeple. 

You  pass  by  the  steeple,  and  come  into  an  apartment 
which  has  the  name  of  the  Dining-room.  It  has  similar 
dimensions  to  the  Church  ;  and  on  its  left  side  there  is  a 
continued  elevation,  resembling  a  table.  You  now  enter 
an  immense  gallery,  about  10  feet  wide,  and  some  121 
feet  long,  and  from  80  to  100  feet  high.  You  turn  aside 
to  visit  a  small  apartment,  but  of  exquisite  beauty.  Here 
the  most  singular  sparry  concretions  hang  pendent  from 
the  roof,  while  an  equal  number  are  growing  up  from  the 
ground  in  several  degrees  of  progress,  many  of  them 
meeting  in  the  centre,  and  becoming  one.     Winding  pas- 

14* 


162 


WEYER  S    CAVE. 


1^  i 

fii: 


sages  are  left  among  them,  which  make  a  sort  of  labyr- 
inth  ;  and  as  they  are  semi-pellucid,  the  passing  of  the 
lights  through  the  several  alleys  has  a  very  singular  ef- 
fect.    This  has  the  name  of  the  Garden  of  Eden. 

You  return  to  the  Dining-room,  and  pass  by  a  dark 
opening  at  your  feet,  which  is  the  mouth  of  a  cavern, 
into  which  the  foot  of  man  has  never  been.  It  can  only 
be  explored  by  rope  ladders  ;  and  it  is  supposed,  though 
I  think  without  sui)icient  rsason,  to  be  charged  with 
mephitic  gases,  fatal  to  life.  You  may  now  make  an 
ascent  of  some  50  feet,  if  your  nerves  allow,  and  your 
reward  will  be  adequate  to  your  pains.  You  must  cUmb 
over  the  face  of  the  rock,  which  has  nearly  a  perpendic- 
ular pitch,  and  you  will  then  find  yourself  on  an  elevated 
platform,  and  surrounded  b}  loopholes  and  striking 
figures.  You  may  now  look  dov*";:!  from  your  errinence, 
which  is  the  Giant's  Causeway,  into  the  large  illuminated 
rooms  you  have  left,  and  perhaps  see  a  small  party  mo- 
ving over  the  floors  in  misty  shadow.  Here  stands  out 
in  relief  before  you,  and  on  the  very  verge  of  the  plat- 
form, a  fine  group  of  stalagmites,  white  as  alabaster,  and 
suggesting  to  the  fancy  the  figures  of  a  small  party  of 
horse  moving  over  high  and  dangerous  precipices.  They 
are  Bonaparte  and  his  Guards.  There  is  a  fine  arch 
expanding  before  you  over  the  scene  below ;  you  may, 
with  caution,  ascend  on  its  head,  and  by  this  means  gain 
a  more  commanding  view  of  the  objects  so  far  beneath 
you. 

But  we  must  hasten  on.  When  you  have  mide  your 
descent  to  the  ordinary  level,  and  move  on  your  return- 
ing course,  you  pass  by  an  enormous  and  most  beautiful 
concretion.  It  is  a  tower,  vhoxxt  30  feet  each  way  at  the 
base,  and  rising  in  diminished  squares  to  the  height  of 
30  feet.  It  is  a  stalagmite  ;  nearly  as  w^hite  and  clear 
as  alabaster,  and  dazzles  you  by  its  capacity  to  reflect 
lights. 

You  pass,  also,  some  fine  springs,  at  which  you  may 
refresh  yourself  on  the  way.  There  is  one  I  must  dis- 
tinguish before  we  leave.     You  ascend,  in  getting  to  it, 


J 

I 


I: 
.It . 


INN. 


163 


a  steep  of  n  feet,  by  a  ladder,  and  then,  by  a  little  hard 
climbing,  attain  to  the  end  of  the  recess,  and  stand  before 
what  is  named  the  Source  of  the  Nile.  It  is  a  fine  trans- 
parent spring,  and  is  very  remarkable  for  being  covered 
with  a  thin  pellicle  of  stalagmite.  It  is  strong  enough 
to  bear  you ;  and  has  a  hole  cut  in  the  centre,  which 
gives  you  access  to  the  water. 

I  hope  you  will  not  think  you  have  been  detained  too 
long  on  this  spectacle.  My  regret  is,  that  I  have  only 
described  one  half  of  what  it  unfolds,  and  that  with  haste 
and  imperfection.  It  is,  in  my  judgment,  one  of  the  great 
natural  wonders  of  this  new  world  ;  and  for  its  eminence 
in  its  own  class,  deserves  to  be  ranked  with  the  Natural 
Bridge  and  Niagara,  while  it  is  far  less  known  than 
either.  Its  dimensions,  by  the  most  direct  course,  are 
more  than  1,600  feet;  and  by  the  more  winding  paths, 
twice  that  length ;  and  its  objects  are  remarkable  for  their 
variety,  formation,  and  beauty.  In  both  respects,  it  will, 
I  think,  compare,  without  injury  to  itself,  with  the  cele- 
brated Grotto  of  Antiparos. 

For  myself,  I  acknowledge  the  spectacle  to  have  been 
most  interesting ;  but,  to  be  so,  it  must  be  illuminated, 
as  on  this  occasion.  I  had  thought  that  this  circum- 
stance might  give  to  the  whole  a  toyish  effect ;  but  the 
influence  of  2,000  or  3,000  lights  on  these  immense  cav- 
erns is  only  such  as  to  reveal  the  objects,  without  dis- 
turbing the  solemn  and  sublime  obscurity  which  sleeps  on 
every  thing.  Scarcely  any  scenes  can  awaken  so  many 
passions  at  once,  and  so  deeply.  Curiosity,  apprehen- 
sion, terror,  surprise,  admiration,  and  delight,  by  turns 
and  together,  arrest  and  possess  you.  I  have  had  before, 
from  other  objects,  one  simple  impression  made  with 
greater  power ;  but  I  never  had  so  many  impressions 
made,  and  with  so  much  power,  before.  If  the  interest- 
ing and  the  awful  are  the  elements  of  the  sublime,  here 
subUmity  reigns,  as  in  her  own  domain,  in  darkness, 
silence,  and  deeps  profound. 

On  emerging  from  this  subterrene  world,  our  first  con- 
cern was  to  perform  our  ablutions  and  rectify  our  dresses. 


f 


'      li 

? 

,1  ■: 

1 

IKf      . 

i 

si    ,■ 

1' 

^i '       ; 

ii 

k-^'  ' 

l! 

164 


INN. 


*  -I  ! 
I  -I  J 


ir: 


Il^r 


This  done,  we  hastened  to  the  inn  in  search  of  refresh- 
monts.  Here  we  were  presented  with  a  singular  con- 
trast to  the  scenes  just  contemplated.  The  innkeeper 
had  advertised  his  show  over  all  the  welkin  ;  and  his 
invitation  had  been  fairly  responded  to  ;  but  he  had  not 
provided  adequate  acconiiaodation.  Plis  inn  was  a  little 
frame  building,  only  fit  for  a  small  family ;  and  had  the 
day  been  wet,  the  company  had  been  in  a  wretched  con- 
dition. The  two  upper  rooms  were  crowded  with  fe- 
males, who  were  waiting  in  succession  to  enjoy  the  use 
of  a  single  looking-^lass,  that  they  might  arrange  their 
dresses,  and  put  themselves  above  ridicule.  Below,  the 
two  rooms  were  equally  thronged  with  men,  who  were 
making  way  to  the  bar  for  their  potion  of  mint-julap,  and 
other  favourite  mixtures.  Many  preferred  rather  to  rely 
on  the  pure  spirit,  than  on  mixtures  of  any  kind.  All,  per- 
haps, thought  that  the  occasion,  which  is  one  of  much 
fatigue  and  of  exposure  to  great  difference  of  temperature 
(not  lefcs  than  30°)  would  justify  the  use  of  some  por- 
tion ;  but  many  were  not  contented  with  a  little  ;  I  never 
saw,  at  any  other  time,  so  many  persons  the  worse  for 
the  use  of  spirituous  liquors. 

In  front  of  the  house,  on  the  greensward,  a  table  was 
prepared,  with  a  wooden  awning,  which  would  receive 
about  one  third  of  the  company.  It  was  completely  sur- 
rounded, and  mostly  by  ladies,  who  were  certainly  dis- 
cussing the  matters  before  them  with  great  earnestness  ; 
while  their  friends,  lovers,  and  servants, — young  farmers, 
smart  collegians,  and  blacks, — were  in  bustling  attend- 
ance behind,  supplying  their  plates,  fanning  their  per- 
sons, and  passing  the  merry  joke  and  joyous  laugh  around. 
Apart  from  these  were  a  multitude  who  had  already  par- 
taken of  the  feast,  reposing  on  chairs,  or  expanding  them- 
selves on  the  turf,  talking,  smoking,  or  listening  to  the 
squeaking  fiddle  of  an  old  merry  slave,  who  was  doing 
his  best  to  gather  up  the  loose  halfpence  of  the  company. 
It  offered  to  one  an  interesting  specimen  of  the  people 
for  thirty  miles  round.  It  was  composed  chiefly  of  the 
young ;  and  most  oi  them  seemed  to  have  come  rather  to 


NEW   HOPS. 


166 


h  of  refresh- 
lingular  con- 
le  innkeeper 
kin ;  and  his 
t  he  had  not 
n  was  a  httle 
and  had  the 
irretched  con- 
ded  with  fe- 
njoy  the  use 
arrange  their 
Below,  the 
n,  who  were 
int-julap,  and 
rather  to  rely 
d.  All,  per- 
3ne  of  much 
!*  temperature 
of  some  por- 
ttle ;  I  never 
he  worse  for 

a  table  was 
ould  receive 
mpletely  sur- 
jertainly  dis- 
earnestness  ; 
)ung  farmers, 
jtling  attend- 
ig  their  per- 
augh  around, 
already  par- 
anding  them- 
ening  to  the 
10  was  doing 
he  company, 
f  the  people 
hiefly  of  the 
}m6  rather  to 


enjoy  a  frohc  than  to  gratify  an  intelligent  curiosity.  One 
of  their  greatest  faults  was  that  of  doing  so  much  wanton 
mischief  to  the  more  delicate  ornaments  of  the  cave. 

All  who  went  to  the  cave  paid  for  the  refreshments ; 
but  as  they  were  not  easy  to  get  at,  and  not  very  tempt- 
ing when  obtained,  we  partook  of  our  sandwiches,  and, 
admonished  by  approaching  evening,  prepared  to  leave. 
The  black,  who  had  attended  our  horses,  and  who  had 
been  recompensed  by  Mr.  Douglas,  thinking  that  I  was 
not  aware  of  this,  came  up  to  me,  and  taking  hold  of  my 
stirrup,  said,  in  a  plaintive  voice  and  look,  '*  Massa,  it^s 
been  bad  day  to  me  !  It  'most  breaks  my  heart,  to  do  so 
much  and  get  so  little.  Massa !"  I  have  no  doubt  that 
Massa  made  a  very  good  day  of  it ;  but  these  men  are 
very  insinuating ;  and  bondage  and  cunning  go  together. 

We  endeavoured  to  return  by  a  nearer  and  better 
course.  From  the  advancing  state  of  the  day,  and  the 
wearied  state  of  ourselves  and  horses,  it  was  necessary 
that  we  should  accept  the  first  accommodations  on  the 
road.  At  a  distance  of  five  miles  from  the  cave,  we  ar- 
rived at  a  village  named  New  Hope,  and  at  a  tavern  with 
the  sign  of  "  Plain  Dealing  Hotel."  Now,  as  I  have  no 
relish  for  terms  of  cant,  either  in  civil  or  religious  life,  I 
thought  this  sign  somewhat  ominous.  On  a  nearer  sur- 
vey, some  of  us  maintained  that  it  could  not  contain  us  ; 
but  Mr.  D.  thought  its  capacities  greater  than  its  appear- 
ance ;  and  so  we  alighted.  The  sleeping-rooms,  as  they 
were  called,  were  in  the  angles  of  the  roof,  and  were 
more  like  dovecots  than  bed-chambers  ;  moreover,  otht^rs 
were  to  have  access  to  them.  We  determined,  therefore, 
to  have  the  beds  down  stairs,  and  to  sleep  on  the  floor 
of  the  sitting  and  eating-room. 

When  the  time  for  this  arrangement  came,  I  was  con- 
sulted by  my  hostess  on  my  preference  for  a  straw-mat- 
tress or  feather-bed.  Now,  unused  as  I  was  to  sleep  on 
the  boards,  and  harbouring,  as  I  did,  from  my  weary  and 
bruised  state,  a  special  dislike  to  all  hard  sounds,  I  hastily 
resolved  on  the  feather-bed.  For  me,  this  was  a  fatal 
choice.     My  friends  had  the  mattresses,  and,  therefore, 


166 


NATURAL    BRIDGE. 


I; 


^-  I  I  ■  i 


I      i 


I!' 


m 


preserved  between  themselves  and  the  floor  a  substanori 
of  some  elasticity  ;  but  as  for  me  and  my  feather-bed, 
whenever  I  thought  to  place  myself  upon  it,  and  however 
softly,  away  went  the  feathers  on  either  side,  and  left  me 
just  to  the  blank  and  knotted  boards.  It  was  a  weary 
night,  relieved  only  by  two  circumstances.  The  first 
was,  that  my  friends  wore  sleeping  fairly  ;  and  the  sec- 
ond was,  that  at  midnight,  some  one  opened  the  window, 
entered  the  room,  and  passed  away  to  his  place  of  slum- 
ber without  ceremony.  We  had  secured  our  door  to  pre- 
vent such  intrusion ;  but  this  was  done  in  simplicity. 
Doors  are  the  only  mode  of  entrance  to  some  ;  they  are 
only  one  of  many  to  others.  However,  the  people  of  this 
house,  though  of  the  plainest,  gave  us  all  the  accommo- 
dation in  their  power  ;  and  plain  dealing  with  them  seems 
to  have  prospered,  for  they  are  carrying  up  a  much  better 
house  for  their  own  and  the  public  use. 

We  rose  with  the  sun,  and  hastened  on  our  way  be- 
fore the  heat  of  the  day.  We  paused  at  the  "  Tinkling 
Springs,"  where  we  found  a  church,  a  school-house,  and 
a  burial-ground,  in  the  heart  of  the  woods  ;  at  Granville, 
wh(>re  we  left  Mr.  Douglas,  at  the  dwelling  of  his  mother ; 
and  at  Colonel  M'Dowell's,  as  we  promised,  where  we 
had  the  same  kindnesses  repeated  ;  and  at  length  reached 
Lexington,  after  an  excursion  which  was  very  gratifying 
at  the  time,  and  which  will,  I  doubt  not,  be  pleasant  to 
recollection  always. 

I  had  only  half  a  day  remaining  to  see  the  Natural 
Bridge ;  and  to  have  left  Lexington  without  seeing  it, 
would  have  been  a  piece  of  Vandalism  which  the  good 
people  would  not  have  forgiven.  Colonel  Reid,  and  two 
other  gentlemen,  accompanied  me ;  Mr.  Carruthers  had 
become  unwell  by  the  heat  of  the  weather  in  our  previous 
trip.  On  this  occasion  it  was  worse  ;  the  glass  was  at 
95°,  and  we  had  to  ride  on  horseback  in  the  presence  of 
an  intolerable  sun.  I  perspired  almost  equally  to  what  I 
had  done  at  Louisville.  But  the  sight  leaves  you  neither 
weariness  nor  regret. 

This  famous  bridge  is  on  the  head  of  a  fine  limestone 


hill,  ^ 
der  b 
thus  n 


ilil!. 


NATURAL   BRIDGE. 


167 


a  substanori 
feather-bed, 
ind  however 
I,  and  left  me 
vas  a  weary 
The  first 
and  the  see- 
the window, 
ice  of  slum- 
■  door  to  pre- 
simphcity. 
B  ;  they  are 
eople  of  this 
e  accommo- 
thetn  seems 
much  better 

ur  way  be- 
!  "Tinkling 
1-house,  and 
It  Granville, 
his  mother ; 
,  where  we 
igth  reached 
y  gratifying 
pleasant  to 

the  Natural 
t  seeing  it, 
:h  the  good 
sid,  and  two 
ruthers  had 
)ur  previous 
ass  was  at 
presence  of 
ly  to  what  I 
you  neither 

e  limestone 


hill,  which  has  the  appearance  of  having  been  rent  asun- 
der by  some  terrible  convulsion  in  nature.  The  fissure 
thus  maide  is  about  ninety  feet ;  and  over  it  the  bridge 
runs,  so  needful  to  the  spot,  and  so  unlikely  to  have  sur- 
vived the  great  fracture,  as  to  seem  the  work  of  man  ;  so 
simple,  so  grand,  so  great,  as  to  assure  you  that  it  is  only 
the  work  of  God.  The  span  of  the  arch  runs  from  46  to 
60  feet  wide  ;  and  its  height,  to  the  under  line,  is  about 
200  feet,  and  to  the  head  about  240  !  The  form  of  the 
arch  approaches  to  the  elliptical ;  and  it  is  carried  over  on 
a  diagonal  line,  the  very  hne  of  all  others  so  difficult  to  the 
architect  to  realize  ;  and  yet  so  calculated  to  enhance 
the  picturesque  beauty  of  the  object ! 

There  are  chiefly  three  points  of  sight.  You  naturally 
make  your  way  to  the  head  of  the  bridge  first ;  and  as  it 
is  a  continuation  of  the  common  road,  with  its  sides  cov- 
ered with  fine  shrubs  and  trees,  you  may  be  on  it  before 
you  are  aware.  But  the  moment  you  approach  through 
the  foliage  to  the  side,  you  are  filled  with  apprehension. 
It  has,  indeed,  a  natural  parapet ;  but  few  persons  can 
stand  forward  and  look  over.  You  instinctively  seek  to 
reduce  your  height,  that  you  may  gaze  on  what  you  ad- 
mire with  security.  Even  then  it  agitates  you  with  dizzy 
sensations. 

You  then  make  your  way  some  fifty  feet  down  the 
bosom  of  the  hill,  and  are  supplied  with  some  admirable 
standings  on  the  projecting  rock- work,  to  sco  the  bridge 
and  all  its  rich  accompaniments.  There  is,  200  feet  be- 
low you,  the  Cedar  river,  apparently  motionless,  except 
where  it  flashes  with  light,  as  it  cuts  its  way  through  the 
broken  rocks.  Mark  the  trees,  of  every  variety,  but 
especially  the  fir,  how  they  diminish  as  they  stand  on  the 
margin  of  its  bed ;  and  how  they  ascend,  step  by  step,  on 
the  noble  rock- work,  till  they  overshadow  you  ;  still  pre- 
se-ving  such  delicacy  of  form  and  growth,  as  if  they 
would  not  do  an  injury,  while  they  lend  a  grace.  Ob- 
serve those  hills,  gathering  all  around  you  in  their  fairest 
forms  and  richest  verdure,  as  if  to  do  honour  to  a  scene 
of  surpassing  excellence.     Now  look  at  the  bridge  itself, 


168 


NATURAL   BRIDGE. 


springing  from  this  bed  of  verdant  loveliness,  distinct,  one, 
complete  !  It  is  before  you  in  its  mos.  picturesque  form. 
You  just  see  through  the  arch,  and  the  internal  face  of 
the  farther  pier  is  perfectly  revealed.  Did  you  ever  see 
such  a  pier — such  an  arch  1  Is  it  not  most  illusive ! 
Look  at  that  masonry.  Is  it  not  most  like  the  perfection 
of  art ;  and  yet  what  art  could  never  reach  1  Look  at 
that  colouring.  Does  it  not  appear  like  the  painter's 
highest  skill,  and  yet  unspeakably  transcend  it  ? 

This  is  exquisite.     Still  you  have  no  just  conception 
of  this  masterpiece  until  you  get  below.     You  go  some 
little  distance  for  this  purpose,  as  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
bridge  the  rocks  are  far  too  precipitous.     A  hot  and  brill- 
iant day  is,  of  all  others,  the  time  to  enjoy  this  object. 
To  escape  from  a  sun  which  scorches  you,  into  these 
verdant  and  cool  bottoms,  is  a  luxury  of  itself,  which  dis- 
poses you  to  relish  every  thing  else.     When  down,  I  was 
very  careful  of  the  first  impression,  and  did  not  venture 
to  look  steadily  on  the  objects  about  me  till  I  had  selected 
my  station.     At  length  I  placed  myself  about  100  feet 
from  the  bridge,  on  some  masses  of  rock,  which  were 
washed  by  the  running  waters,  and  ornamented  by  the 
slender  trees  which  were  springing  from  its  fissures. 
At  my  feet  was  the  soothing  melody  of  the  rippling,  gush- 
ing waters.     Behind  me,  and  in  the  distance,  the  river 
and  the  hills  were  expanding  themselves  to  the  light  and 
splendour  of  day.     Before  me,  and  all  around,  every  thing 
was  reposing  in  the  most  delightful  shade,  set  off  by  the 
streaming  rays  of  the  sun,  which  shot  across  the  head  of 
the  picture  far  above  you,  and  sweetened  the  solitude  je- 
low.     On  the  right  and  left,  the  majestic  rocks  arose, 
with  the  decision  of  a  wall,  but  without  its  uniformity, 
massive,  broken,  beautiful,  and  supplying  a  most  admira- 
ble foreground ;    and,   everywhere,   the  most   delicate 
stems  were  planted  in  their  crevices,  and  waving  their 
heads  in  the  soft  breeze,  which  occasionally  came  over 
them.     The  eye  now  ran  through  the  bridge,  and  was 
gratified  with  a  lovely  vista.     The  blue  mountains  stood 
out  in  the  background ;  beneath  them,  the  hills  and  woods 


I 


SACRAMENTAL   MEETING.. 


169 


distinct,  one, 
resque  form, 
rnal  face  of 
fon  ever  see 
9St  illusive ! 
lie  perfection 
1  ?  Look  at 
;he  painter's 

iti 

t  conception 
fou  go  some 
cinity  of  the 
tiot  and  brill- 
this  object. 
II,  into  these 
f,  which  dis- 
down,  I  was 

not  venture 
had  selected 
>ut  100  feet 
which  were 
snted  by  the 
its  fissures. 
)pling,  gush- 
ce,  the  river 
he  light  and 
,  every  thing 
jt  off  by  the 
the  head  of 
solitude  je- 
rocks  arose, 

uniformity, 
lost  admira- 
ist  delicate 
iraving  their 

came  over 
^e,  and  was 
itains  stood 
I  and  woods 


si 

,i 

ll 


gathered  together,  so  as  to  enclose  the  dell  below ;  while 
the  river,  which  was  coursing  away  from  them,  seemed  to 
have  its  well-head  hidden  in  their  recesses.  Then  there  is 
the  arch,  distinct  from  every  thing,  and  above  every  thing ! 
Massive  as  it  is,  it  is  light  and  beautiful  by  its  height, 
und  the  fine  trees  on  its  summit  seem  now  only  like  a 
garland  of  evergreens  ;  and,  elevated  as  it  is,  its  appa- 
rent  elevation  is  wonderfully  increased  by  the  narrow- 
ness of  its  piers,  and  by  its  outline  being  drawn  on  the 
blue  sky,  which  appears  beneath  and  above  it !  Oh,  it 
is  sublime — so  strong,  and  yet  so  elegant — springing 
from  earth,  and  bathing  its  head  in  heaven !  But  it  is 
the  sublime  not  allied  to  the  terrific,  as  at  Niagara ;  it  is 
the  sublime  associated  with  the  pleasing.  I  sat,  and 
gazed  in  wonder  and  astonishment.  That  afternoon  was 
the  shortest  I  ever  remembered.  I  had  quickly,  too 
quickly,  to  leave  the  spot  for  ever ;  but  the  music  of 
those  waters,  the  luxury  of  those  shades,  the  form  and 
colours  of  those  rocks,  and  that  arch — that  arch — rising 
over  all,  and  seeming  to  offer  a  passage  to  the  skies — 
0,  they  will  never  leave  me ! 


LETTER  XVI. 

My  dear  Friend, 

At  four  the  next  morning  I  left  Lexington  in  the  car- 
riage of  a  friend,  having  made  it  one  of  my  few  resting- 
places.  My  intention  was  to  join  Mr.  Douglas  at  a  four- 
day  sacramental  meeting,  at  which  he  was  attending. 
The  congregation  in  which  it  occurred  was  in  a  state  of 
revival,  and  it  was  among  the  most  prosperous  of  this 
country.  I  had  a  strong  desire  vo  commune  with  the  as- 
sembled Christians  on  the  solemn  occasion,  and  to  make 
myself  acquainted  with  the  appearances  of  religion  among 
them.  ^ 

Vol.  L— H  il 


no 


SACRAMENTAL   MEETING. 


.i 


IS 


liUi 


i' 


;fc'it 


:i. 


We  had  about  fifteen  miles  to  go,  and  partly  from  the 
heaviness  of  the  roads,  and  partly  from  the  heat  of  the 
day,  we  did  not  arrive  til)  after  the  morning  service  had 
begun.  The  first  indication  of  our  approach  to  the 
church  was  in  the  appearance  of  an  immense  number  of 
saddle-horses,  from  300  to  400,  lasned  to  the  trees  ;  and, 
as  we  continued  to  wind  our  way  along,  we  presently  saw 
portions  of  the  building  through  the  clustering  trunks  and 
fohage.  On  reaching  the  place,  we  found  it  crowded  to 
excess,  and  enlivened  without  by  a  great  number  stand- 
ing in  the  open  doorways,  sitting  on  the  steps,  or  repo- 
sing on  the  grass,  where  they  might  have  the  chance  of 
hearing ;  and,  in  many  instances,  charged  with  the  care 
of  young  and  happy  children,  too  gay  to  be  quiet  in  a 
state  of  confinement.  The  associations  were  interest- 
ing; here  was  a  large  congregation,  proper  to  a  city, 
convened  in  the  depths  of  the  forest.  The  circumstan- 
ces were  striking ;  the  day  was  exceedingly  hot,  but  here 
people,  cattle,  church,  and  all,  were  thrown  into  most  de- 
lightful shade  by  the  overtopping  trees,  except  where  the 
sun  shot  down  through  an  opening  before  the  sanctuary, 
like  a  pillar  of  light  and  glory. 

We  managed  to  gain  admittance.  It  was  the  sacra- 
mental service.  Messrs.  Morrison,  Douglas,  and  Arm- 
strong, were  officiating.  The  pastor  admitted  twelve  per- 
sons to  the  church,  and  three  of  them  were  baptized  pre- 
viously. The  other  services  were  in  the  usual  order  of 
the  Presbyterian  Church.  The  members  came  succes- 
sively to  the  tables ;  the  persons  of  colour  coming  last. 
There  must  have  been  500  persons  communicating. 
There  was  the  appearance  of  true  seriousness  on  the 
whole  assembly ;  and  every  thing  was  as  quiet  and 
solemn  as  it  could  be  with  a  house  so  crowded,  and  the 
exchange  of  places  which  this  method  makes  necessary. 
I  gratefully  united  with  them ;  we  ate  of  one  bread  and 
drank  of  one  cup,  and  were,  I  trust,  of  one  spirit.  In 
such  circumstances,  there  was  great  power  and  sweet- 
ness in  that  promise,  "  I  will  be  to  them  as  a  little  sanc- 
tuary in  the  wilderness." 


I. 


SACRAMENTAL    MEETING. 


171 


tly  from  the 
heat  of  the 
service  had 
ach  to  the 
I  number  of 
trees ;  and, 
esently  saw 
;  trunks  and 
crowded  to 
mber  stand- 
ps,  or  repo- 
B  chance  of 
ith  the  care 
e  quiet  in  a 
re  interest- 
r  to  a  city, 
circumstan- 
lot,  but  here 
ito  most  de- 
)t  where  the 
}  sanctuary, 

s  the  sacra- 
3,  and  Arm- 
[  twelve  per- 
aptized  pre- 
lal  order  of 
ime  succes- 
;oming  last, 
imunicating. 
ness  on  the 
s  quiet  and 
led,  and  the 
3  necessary, 
e  bread  and 
}  spirit.  In 
■  and  sweet- 
i  little  sane- 


i  ' 


At  noon  a  pause  was  made  for  half  an  hour,  as  a  pe- 
riod of  refreshment.  Then  you  might  have  seen  the 
family  and  friendly  groups,  in  all  directions,  seated  at  the 
feet  of  the  gigantic  trees,  partaking  of  their  simple  re- 
past, and  welcoming  all  to  partake  who  were  provided 
with  less  than  themselves. 

The  afternoon  service  was  renewed  and  sustained  in 
like  spirit.  The  birds,  which  had  found  a  nest  for  them- 
selves within  and  without  this  sacred  habitation,  flew  in 
and  out  by  the  open  windows,  seeming  to  excite  no  ob- 
servation except  to  myself,  so  rural  were  the  habits  of 
this  people ! 

At  the  close  of  the  engagements,  I  went  with  Mr.  I  .or- 
rison.  His  dwelling  is  about  two  miles  distant.  It  was 
really  a  beautiful  sight  to  see  this  people — men,  women, 
and  children, — all  mounted  on  their  fine  horses,  and 
starting  away,  as  from  a  centre,  into  every  part  of  the 
forest,  where  you  would  think  there  was  no  way  to  be 
found.  In  our  own  line,  we  had  quite  a  cavalcade,  such 
as  old  Chaucer  might  have  celebrated.  As  we  advanced 
over  glade,  and  brook,  and  dingle,  our  path  forked,  and 
we  broke  off  to  the  right  and  left ;  and  again  it  forked, 
and  again  we  were  scattered.  My  eye  long  rested  on 
them.  Now  you  might  see  a  single  horseman  take  his 
solitary  path  through  the  woods ;  now  a  family  cluster, 
parent,  child,  and  grandchild ;  and  now  an  aged  pair,  who 
told  you  that  they  were  closing  life  as  they  began  it, 
alone.  Now  they  thrid  their  way  through  the  thick'  .i- 
ing  forest ;  now  they  disappear  in  the  dingle  :  now  you 
see  them  again,  but  indistinctly,  and  far  away ;  and  now 
they  vanish  altogether.  My  eye  searched  for  them  in 
vain.  Why  should  it  have  searched  at  all  1  i  did  not 
know  these  people — I  had  not  spoken  to  them.  Why, 
then,  did  a  sentiment  of  regret  steal  over  me,  as  they 
vanished,  one  by  one,  perhaps  to  be  seen  no  more  for 
ever  1     You  can  understand  this. 

The  following  day  was  the  last  of  the  four,  and  noth- 
ing would  satisfy  my  brethren  but  that  I  should  preac>  in 
the  morning.     There  was  an  excellent  attendance,  a,ad 

H2 


172 


STAUNTON. 


the  people  evidently  heard  with  attention  and  seriousness. 
One  circumstance  gave  me  some  surprise  at  the  moment. 
Towards  the  close  of  the  sermon,  some  twenty  or  thirty 
men  rose,  after  each  other,  and  went  out,  and  in  the 
course  of  three  or  four  minutes  returned  to  their  place '>. 
It  was  evidently  not  the  effect  of  inattention,  for  they  were 
attentive  themselves,  and  showed  concern  to  disturb  thw? 
hearing  of  others  as  little  as  possible.  I  could  not 
imagine  the  cause  ;  but  it  was  afterward  explained,  that 
some  rahi  had  fallen,  and  they  had  gone  out  to  cover  the 
saddles,  that  they  might  not  get  wet.  Apart  from  the 
unpleasantness  and  hazard  of  a  wet  saddle,  the  young 
people  here  are  very  chary  of  their  horses  and  their  ac- 
coutrements, as,  more  than  an>  thing,  these  mark  the  re- 
spectability of  the  party. 

I  took  my  leave  of  the  people,  whiL  yet  assembled, 
and  waiting  other  services,  as  I  had  to  hasten  on  to 
Staunton  that  day.  My  esteemed  friend  also  excused 
himself  to  his  people,  and  kindly  insisted  that  he  would 
convey  me  so  far  on  my  journey.  I  was  greatly  obliged 
by  this  mark  of  friendship,  especially  as  it  allowed  me  an 
opportunity  of  free  intercourse  with  him  on  subjects 
touching  his  charge. 

I  learned  that  this  neighbourhood  had  been  long  settled, 
though  the  population  was  so  concealed ;  and  that  the 
present  church  is  the  third  that  has  been  built  on  the 
spot.  The  first  was  a  mere  !og  erection.  The  inhabi- 
tants were  till  a  late  period  much  annoyed  by  the  Indians. 
There  was  a  fovt  on  the  plantation  where  my  friend  re- 
sides ;  and  most  of  the  houses  were  fortified,  and  the 
people  obliged  to  bring  tlieir  rifles  to  church,  to  protect 
themselves  from  attack. 

My  friend  had  been  settled  here  since  the  year  1819, 
and  it  was  his  maiden  charge.  When  he  came,  he 
thougVit  there  was  a  good  impression  on  the  minds  of  the 
people,  from  the  sudden  death  of  a  beloved  minister. 
The  church  was  comparatively  small,  but  there  was  a 
large  h'<dy  of  hopeful  young  persons  who  had  not  yet  v>ro- 
fessou  the  Saviour.     His  labours  for  the  fir^i  i.ve  years 


STAUNTON. 


173 


eriousness. 
ie  moment, 
ty  or  thirty 
and  in  the 
leir  place  •^. 
r  they  were 
disturb  the 
could   not 
lained,  that 
;o  cover  the 
irt  from  the 
,  the  young 
tid  their  ac- 
aark  the  re- 
assembled, 
isten  on  to 
Iso  excused 
at  he  would 
atly  obliged 
owed  me  an 
an  subjects 

ong  settled, 
Lnd  that  the 
»uilt  on  the 

he  inhabi- 
;he  Indians. 

friend  re- 
d,  and  the 

to  protect 

year  1819, 
came,  he 
inds  of  the 
I  minister, 
lere  was  a 
lot  yet  pro- 
i"ve  years 


were  very  successful.  After  this,  there  was  a  pause  in 
his  usemlness,  which  gave  him  much  distress.  He  could 
not  avoid  connecting  this  very  much  with  the  abundant 
production  and  use  of  distilled  liqucrs  throughout  his 
parish.  They  had  all,  as  farmers,  fallen  into  the  prac- 
tice of  converting  their  surplur  corn  and  fruit  into  spirif . 
This,  of  course,  was  a  great  temptation.  He  made  it  the 
subject  of  consideration  and  prayer.  He  determined  to 
press  the  claims  of  the  Temperance  cause  on  their  con- 
sciences. Ht  did  it  with  firmness,  but  with  equal  pru- 
dence and  temper.  It  had  nearly  unsettled  him  with  his 
charge  for  a  time ;  for  some  of  the  leading  farmers  re- 
sisted, end  became  adverse  to  him.  However,  some 
yielded,  and  otliers  followed ;  and  this  was  succeeded  by 
a  re'  ■  .^ed  state  f  religion  such  us  they  have  not  known ; 
and  it  has  continued  for  the  last  four  years.  Before  this 
effort,  no  less  than  150,000  barrels  of  spirits  were  pro- 
1 1  duced,  and  each  family  had  a  still ;  now  not  5,000  are 
made,  and  but  one  person  holds  a  still.  The  farmers, 
too,  have  found  a  better  market  for  their  surplus  produce, 
and  are  every  way  more  prosperous. 

To  assist  your  judgment  on  this  interesting  case,  I 
will  supply  you  with  the  additions  to  this  church  through 
a  course  of  years,  as  taken  from  the  register.  In  the 
year  1819,  the  year  of  his  settlement,  fourteen  persons 
were  added;  in  1820,  thirty;  in  1821,  eighteen;  in  1822, 
sixty-eight ;  in  1823,  forty-four  ;  in  1824,  five  ;  in  1825, 
six;  in  1826,  nine;  in  1827,  six;  in  1828,  nine;  in 
1829,  three;  in  1830,  six;  in  1831,  one  hundred  and 
ibur ;  in  1832,  forty ;  in  1833,  two  hundred  and  seventy- 
four;  and  in  the  year  1834,  up  to  August,  twenty-five 
were  added.  In  the  first  revival  no  means  were  used 
except  preaching,  and  meetings  for  prayer.  In  the  sec- 
ond, which  includes  the  last  four  years,  similar  means 
were  used  with  more  frequency  ;  and  in  a  few  instances, 
the  serious  were  separated  from  the  rest  of  the  congre- 
gation. The  persons  impressed  and  converted  on  these 
occasions  were,  with  very  few  exceptions,  from  fifteen 
to  thirty  yeais  of  age,  inclining  to  the  younger  period. 

15* 


174 


STAUNTON. 


m 


\-r/ 

i 

^     ■   i'  ! 

; 

:|: 

Those  in  respectable  life  were  at  least  equally  afTected 
with  others ;  and  in  the  second  revival,  the  work  began 
in  the  more  wealthy  families,  and  passed  downward  to 
the  poor  and  the  servants.  There  was  in  neither  case, 
nor  at  any  time,  the  least  noise  or  disorder ;  and  the 
most  useful  seasons  have  always  been  characterized  by 
deep  stillness  and  solemnity.  The  first  and  chief  sign 
for  good,  in  every  case,  Mr.  Morrison  remarked  with  em- 
phasis, has  been  an  increased  spirit  of  prayer. 

The  effects  were  very  exhilarating.  There  are  now 
about  600  members  of  the  church,  and  nearly  200  of 
them  are  under  twenty-five  years  of  age,  though  scarcely 
any  under  fifteen.  The  family  composing  this  church 
cover  a  district  cf  land  about  ten  milea  square.  There 
is  scarcely  one  that  has  not  domestic  worship.  They 
have  no  poor  to  receive  charity  from  the  sacrament,  and 
only  one  person  needing  help,  who  receives  it  through 
private  channels ;  and  they  contributed  1 ,000  dollars  last 
year  to  foisign  religious  objects.  The  pastor's  salary,  I 
think,  is  800  dollars  ;  and  this  my  friend  considers  equal 
to  1,800  in  New- York. 

Interesting  conversations  whiled  the  time  aAvay.  We 
halted  to  refresh,  and  to  take  leave  of  our  friends,  the 
Douglases ;  and  then  drove  on  to  Staunton.  We  alight- 
ed at  the  principal  hotel.  It  was  kept  by  a  religious 
family,  and  Mr.  Morrison  was  known  and  esteemed  by 
them.  We  were  entertained  in  their  private  rooms. 
They  had  read  of  the  Deputation  in  the  papers,  and  soon 
learned  that  I  must  be  a  member  of  it ;  and  were  eager 
to  show,  as  to  a  Christian  and  an  Englishman,  the  utmost 
attentions.  We  had  a  room  full  to  social  worship,  and 
had  the  sensation  of  being  members  of  a  private  house- 
hold rather  than  of  guests  at  a  tavern. 

In  the  morning  I  was  up  with  the  day,  for  I  had  to 
leave  by  the  stage  at  four  o'clock.  My  beloved  friend 
(such  I  must  now  call  him)  had  also  risen  to  continue 
his  kindness  to  the  last  moment.  We  spoke  ;  we  were 
silent ;  we  separated. 

I  had,  in  this  ride,  to  cross  the  Blue  Ridge ;  and  was 


BLUE    RIDGE. 


175 


illy  affected 
work  began 
ownward  to 
leither  case, 
sr ;  and  the 
icterized  by 
i  chief  sign 
ed  with  em- 
r. 

ire  are  now 
sarly  200  of 
igh  scarcely 
this  church 
are.  There 
}hip.  They 
irament,  and 
s  it  through 
I  dollars  last 
)r's  salary,  I 
siders  equal 

aAvay.     We 

friends,  the 

We  alight- 

a  religious 

isteemed  by 

/ate   rooms. 

rs,  and  soon 

were  eager 

,  the  utmost 

trorship,  and 

ivate  house- 

for  I  had  to 
loved  friend 
to  continue 
we  were 

B ;  and  was 


quickly  roused  from  my  musings  on  the  past,  by  hearing 
that  we  were  about  to  make  the  ascent.  It  was  full  four 
miles,  and  consumes  much  time ;  but  this  was  no  matter 
of  complaint  under  such  circumstances.  I  must  not, 
however,  hold  your  attention  with  renewed  descriptions 
of  mountain  scenery.  Let  me  merely  remark,  that  while, 
in  the  ascent,  the  nearer  objects  greatly  resembled  some 
things  that  have  been  described,  there  is  considerable 
difference  on  attaining  the  full  elevation.  No  single 
object  stands  out  with  prominence  ;  but  all  that  you  have 
seen,  and  greatly  more,  is  spread  before  you  at  once  in 
grand,  expanded,  and  mellowed  harmony.  There  is  be- 
fore you  a  field  of  mountain  heads,  like  to  what  may  be 
seen  in  Wales  or  Scotland,  beautifully  coloured  and 
bloomed  by  a  blue  mist  which  rests  on  them.  And 
behind  you  is  the  valley  you  have  left,  now  blended 
with  other  valleys,  which  together  form  only  the  raised 
foreground  to  the  prodigious  valley  of  the  Mississippi, 
which  streiches  away  and  away,  till  it  is  lost  in  the  hori- 
zon, and  which  might  receive  all  the  inhabitants  of  Eu- 
rope, and  ask  for  more.  I  knew  not  in  which  direction 
to  look  with  most  eagerness  and  continuity.  Sometimes 
I  preferred  the  mountain,  and  then  the  valley  picture ; 
and  the  enjoyment  of  either,  I  knew,  must  be  very  short. 
I  gazed  and  admired  again  and  again,  so  long  as  our  dri- 
ver would  allow  ;  and  when  we  began  to  descend,  I  felt 
that  I  was  about  to  separate  from  another  friend,  and  to 
separate  for  ever. 

My  intention  in  crossing  the  Blue  Ridge  was  to  make 
Charlottesville  in  my  way  to  Richmond.  The  University 
of  that  place  is  considered  foremost  in  the  literary  insti- 
tutions of  this  people,  and  it  was  desirable  that  it  should 
not  be  overlooked.  The  site  for  the  town  and  university 
could  not  have  been  better  chosen.  It  is  composed  of 
fine  swells  of  land ;  is  surrounded  by  beautiful  open 
country ;  and  the  blue  hills  lie  in  the  distance  delight- 
fully. If  one  may  be  governed  by  ordinary  indications, 
it  must  be  highly  salubrious. 

The  town  is  small,  and  has  an  unfinished  appearance. 


176 


CHARLOTTESVILLE. 


^^ 


't 


t> 


The  inhabitants,  however,  are  respectable,  and  have  a 
measure  of  refinament  not  frequently  met  with  in  towns 
of  this  class ;  but  Uterature  has  a  tendency  to  humanize 
and  refine  all  things  where  it  comes.  The  only  deduction 
on  this  impression  is,  that  the  stocks  and  the  pillory  stand 
in  the  courtyard,  as  a  means  of  correction  for  the  poor 
blacks. 

The  religious  character  of  this  place  is  too  remarkable 
to  be  unnoticed.  It  will  be  understood  that  the  univer- 
sity was  promoted  chiefly  by  Jefferson,  and  on  avowedly 
skeptical  and  infldel  principles.  This  gave  the  character 
to  the  town.  It  had  no  religious  means ;  and  the  evil 
was  increased  from  time  to  time,  by  the  settlement  of 
such  persons  only  as  were  at  least  indifferent  to  means 
which  it  did  not  supply.  This  was  the  state  of  things 
till  twenty-five  years  since,  when  a  lady  was  brought,  by 
her  husband's  engagements  at  the  University,  to  reside 
in  the  town.  She  was  a  person  of  piety,  and  of  course 
lamented  greatly  the  moral  and  spiritual  condition  of  the 
people.  What  she  lamented,  she  sought  to  remove. 
She  determined  to  commence,  in  her  own  honse,  a  Sab- 
bath school,  for  the  religious  instruction  of  the  young. 
She  persevered  through  many  difficulties,  and  found  re- 
ward in  her  work.  The  influence  of  her  benevolent  ex- 
ertions, as  well  as  of  her  excellent  character,  touched 
her  husband ;  and  he  learned  to  honour  the  religion  he  had 
thoughtlessly  despised.  Strengthened  by  his  concurrence, 
she  proposed  that  their  dwelling  should  be  opened  once 
on  the  Sabbath  for  divine  worship,  that  the  people  might 
have  some  opportunity  of  separating  that  day  from  their 
common  time.  The  work  of  faith  and  love  was  crowned 
with  success.  Various  ministers  gave  their  services ; 
and  the  people  attended,  listened,  were  impressed,  and 
concerted  from  worldliness  and  ungodliness.  There  are 
now,  in  this  town,  of  about  1,000  m  population,  four 
places  of  worship — Presbyterian,  Episcopalian,  Baptist, 
and  Methodist.  Upwards  of  600  persons  habitually  at- 
tend them,  and  there  are  about  150  children  in  the  Sab- 
bath schools.     The  excellent  lady  who  made  the  first 


UNIVERSITY. 


177 


ind  have  a 
th  in  towns 
o  humanize 
y  deduction 
)iilory  stand 
)r  the  poor 

remarkable 
the  univer- 
n  avowedly 
te  character 
nd  the  evil 
ttlement  of 
It  to  means 
;e  of  things 
brought,  by 
y,  to  reside 
d  of  course 
ition  of  the 
to  remove. 
iise,  a  Sab- 
the  young, 
d  found  re- 
evolent  ex- 
ir,  touched 
gion  he  had 
mcurrence, 
pened  once 
ople  might 

from  their 
as  crowned 
services ; 
ressed,  and 

There  are 
ation,  four 
in,  Baptist, 
bitually  at- 
in  the  Sab- 
le the  first 


movement  in  this  change,  still  lives — a  mother  in  Israel ; 
and  the  contrast  of  the  former  with  the  present  times,  in 
the  history  of  this  community,  must  often  supply  her 
with  pleasant  and  grateful  recollections. 

From  the  town  let  us  make  a  transition  to  the  Univer- 
sity. It  was  the  favourite  object  of  Jefferson.  He  gave 
it  great  pains,  and  was  disposed  to  rest  his  reputation 
with  posterity  upon  it.  So  far  as  morality  and  religion 
were  concerned,  his  intention  was  to  found  it,  not  merely 
on  liberal,  but  on  infidel  principles.  His  opinions  had 
been  mostly  formed  in  the  French  school  of  that  day ; 
and  into  his  views  of  education,  there  entered  something 
of  the  acuteness  and  malignity  of  Voltaire,  with  a  portion 
of  the  speciousness  and  extravagance  of  Rousseau.  This 
was  styled  philosophy  ;  and  this  philosophy  was  to  gov- 
ern the  establishment,  or  rather,  it  was  to  give  the  youths 
license  to  govern  themselves.  They  were  to  bow  to  no 
authority ;  they  were  to  be  controlled  by  no  law,  but  v/ere 
to  be  lejft  to  their  own  honour  as  a  sufficient  principle  of 
action.  The  fact  was,  however,  that  when  the  young 
men  were  fairly  left  to  their  honour,  their  honour  left 
them.  Disorder,  dissipation,  anc  jily,  became  predom- 
inant. The  better  class  of  pupils  was  withdrawn. 
The  professors  took  disgust,  and  looked  around  them  for 
stations  where  order  and  conscience  were  still  regarded ; 
and  the  whole  frame  of  this  University  was  threatened 
with  dissolution.  So  far,  then,  as  this  was  an  experi- 
ment in  favour  of  infidelity,  like  every  other  experiment, 
it  has  failed — completely  failed. 

What,  then,  you  are  ready  to  ask,  is  its  condition  now  I 
For  the  sake  of  the  cause  of  letters,  I  am  happy  to  state, 
that  it  is  one  of  renovation  and  great  promise.  All  the 
professors  saw  and  felt  the  evil  which  had  come  over  this 
noble  institution,  and  threatened  its  destruction  ;  and 
generally  they  agreed  in  the  remedy.  They  adopted  a 
decided  and  vigorous  system  of  discipline  ;  they  honour- 
ed the  name  and  institutions  of  religion  ;  they  subscribed 
at  their  own  expense  to  support  ministers,  who  should,  in 
turn,  conduct  public  worship  within  the  University,  and 

H3 


'    J 


■tV' 


I 


M 


fe 


;    U 


!|i 


*': 


u  ■ 

i  •  ■ 


\  ■  t 
■  '  /■ 

il 


178 


UNIVERSITA' 


are  now  raising  a  subscription  to  build  a  church  for  this 
very  purpose.  The  consequence  is,  that  order  is  restored, 
and  with  t  public  confidence  ;  and  youth  cf  respectable 
and  pious  connexions  are  flocking  to  it  iroui  the  sur- 
rounding States.  The  professorships  arc  again  sought 
by  men  of  the  first  attainment ;  and  it  is  likely  to  do 
honour  to  the  expectations  of  an  aspiring  people.  It  is 
now  an  experiment  in  favour  of  education,  still  conducted 
on  liberal  principles,  but  with  religious  sanctions  ;  and  if 
it  is  steadily  sustained,  with  a  fixed  regard  tu  this  issue, 
it  will  succeed ! 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Bowman,  Presbyterian  minister  of  this 
place,  though  unwell,  kindly  attended  me  to  the  Univer- 
sity, and  introduced  me  to  Professor  Patteson.  It  was 
the  vacation,  and  the  professor  regretted  that  most  of  the 
officers  and  pupils  were  away.  He  conducted  me  over 
the  principal  buildings,  and  took  great  and  obliging  pains 
to  satisfy  my  inquiries.  There  is  here  an  observatory, 
an  excellent  library,  a  good  philosophical  apparatus,  and 
a  rising  collection  of  minerals. 

Externally,  the  mass  of  erections  have  an  imposing 
and  grand  effect,  and  they  are  much  assisted  to  this  by 
the  (_^i(niiad  which  they  occupy.  With  some  s light  varia- 
tioi.vA  iui  '.e,  the  plan  is  wholly  Jefferson's.  He  gave  it 
very  deep  and  close  attention ;  and  obtained,  by  his  ex- 
traordinary influence,  large  grants  from  the  State  in  its 
favour.  But  these  grants  were  not  well  applied,  nor 
these  pains  skilfully  directed.  The  erection,  as  a  whole, 
will  not  endure  the  touch  of  rigid  criticism.  He  saw 
that  diversity  of  line,  figure,  and  position,  often  contribute 
to  striking  effect,  but  he  saw  no  more.  The  principal 
figure  is  the  Rotunda ;  answering  to  its  name,  while  every 
thing  else  is  as  squsre  as  square  can  be.  It  is  a  very 
high  circular  wall,  bu  Ir.  of  red  bricks,  with  a  dome  on  its 
summit,  and  with,  windows  perforated  round  it.  It  stands 
naked  and  alone  at  the  head  of  the  picture.  Running 
down  from  this,  on  either  hand,  are  the  dwellings  for  the 
professors,  and  the  lecture-ro  )ms,  forming  two  sides  of  a 
handsome  area.     They  are  d'  tached  erections,  with  la  ge 


i 


■ 


niCHMOND. 


17ft 


rch  for  thi» 
is  restored, 
respectable 
ti  the  sur- 
ain  sought 
likely  to  do 
)ple.  It  is 
I  conducted 
ns  ;  and  if 
I  this  issue, 

jter  of  this 
the  Univer- 
n.  It  was 
most  of  the 
ed  me  over 
Uging  pains 
jbservatory, 
laratus,  and 

n  imposing 
1  to  this  by 
ight  varia- 
e  gave  it 
by  his  ex- 
State  in  its 
pplied,  nor 
as  a  whole, 
He  saw 
contribute 
e  principal 
while  every 
is  a  very 
ome  on  its 
It  stands 
Running 
ings  for  the 
sides  of  a 
with  la  ge 


I' 


columns  rising  their  whole  height ;  and  they  are  united 
by  a  colonnade  running  over  the  ground  story,  so  that  a 
line  of  columns,  that  is  meant  to  be  one  to  the  eye,  sup- 
plies you,  at  intervals,  with  pillars  fifteen  and  thirty  i'eet 
high !  The  accommodations  for  the  pupils  are  in  the 
background,  and  are  not  meant  to  appear  in  the  principal 
scene.  Jefferson  was  proud  of  his  success  as  an  archi- 
tect ;  so  proud  that,  notwithstanding  the  glaro  of  his  red 
bricks,  and  of  a  scorching  sun,  he  would  not  allow  any 
trees  to  be  planted,  lest  they  should  hide  tl'  '•k  of  his 
hands  !     Now  that  he  is  gone,  the  youn  '"^  ap- 

pearing ;   and,  ungrateful  as  he  was,  ai  to 

screen  his  defects,  and  to  give  a  grace  an<  ,    ig  to 

the  scene  which  gratifies  the  eye,  and  harrnuiuzes  with 
the  quiet  pursuits  of  the  place. 

In  quitting  the  University,  let  me,  while  I  have  spoken 
freely  of  Jefferson,  do  him  justice  in  this  particular.  He 
was  not  an  architect,  and,  unhappily,  he  was  not  a  Chris- 
tian ;  but  he  was  a  great  man,  and  he  sought  with  much 
pains  to  confer  honour  and  benefit  on  his  country,  by  the 
establishment  of  a  great  literary  institution.  When  the 
flvils  of  his  system  shall  have  been  removed,  his  name 
will  still  be  identified  with  it,  and  will  command  the  re- 
spect of  his  countrymen. 

On  the  same  day  I  had  to  leave,  by  the  stage,  for 
Richmond.  We  had  a  fair  night's  rest  at  a  comfortable 
inn  on  our  way .  The  following  morning  we  broke  down, 
and  were  detained  some  hours  without  breakfast.  Delay 
was  also  promoted  by  the  heat  of  the  season ;  this  line 
of  coaches  had  six  horses  fall  and  expire  on  the  road 
during  the  week.  It  was  late  in  the  day,  tb'  refore,  be- 
fore we  arrived  at  the  capital. 

Richmond  is  afine  city,  with  a  population  of  about  15,000 
persons.  It  has  a  commanding  situation  on  the  margin 
of  the  James  river,  from  which  it  rises  on  the  slopes  of 
two  fine  hills.  The  main  street  is  wide,  handsome,  and 
indicative  of  business  ;  and  the  retired  streets  are  occu- 
pied by  genteel  and  commodious  residences,  agreeably 
shaded  and  ornamented  by  the  althea,  the  honeysuckle, 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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180 


RICHMOND. 


5i; 


the  locust,  the  catalpa,  the  pride  of  China,  and  the 
Taheitan  mulberry.  The  ride  into  the  town,  from  Char- 
lottesville over  the  downs,  is  striking ;  and  the  distant 
view  across  the  river  is  not  less  so.  The  buildings  and 
streets  are  seen  running  up  the  sides  of  the  hills,  relieved 
and  softened  by  the  abundant  and  spreading  foliage. 
The  more  important  erections  cluster  round  its  summit ; 
and  on  it '  head  stands,  above  every  thing,  the  State- 
House,  spreading  its  noble  portico  to  the  sun.  Few 
spots  can  do  more  honour  to  a  city. 

I  had  designed  to  remain  here  over  the  Sabbath ;  but, 
on  learning  that  a  camp-meeting  was  about  to  be  held  on 
the  Northern  Neck,  I  resolved  at  once  to  move  forward, 
as  I  might  not  find  another  opportunity.  This  left  me 
only  one  clear  day  at  Richmond ;  ind  I  am  indebted  to 
many  kind  friends,  especially  to  Mr.  Burr,  and  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Taylor,  for  assisting  me  to  make  the  best  use  of  my 
time  here. 

This  place,  like  Charlottesville,  has  undergone  a  great 
change  in  the  last  thirty  years.  At  that  time  there  were 
only  one  or  two  neglected  Episcopal  places  of  worship. 
The  people  were  all  given  up  to  worldliness  or  infidelity. 
The  influence  of  Jeflerson  was  felt  also  here,  and  it  was 
felt  as  a  blight  on  all  religious  sentiment.  Slavery  had, 
however,  done  a  greater  mischief.  Now  there  are  thirteen 
places  of  worship,  and  1,000  children  in  the  Sabbath 
schools.  The  blacks  are  not  allowed  their  own  places 
of  worship ;  and  the  Baptist  and  Methodist  congregations 
are  mostly  composed  of  them.  A  number  of  Jews  reside 
here.  They  are  not  persecuted,  nor  any  way  disqualified 
on  account  of  their  religious  persuasion ;  and  the  conse- 
quence is,  that  they  forget  their  faith,  intermarry,  and  are 
losing  their  personal  distinctions. 

I  attended  a  prayer-meeting  at  the  church  where  my 
late  esteemed  friend  and  correspondent.  Dr.  Rice,  labour- 
ed successfully  for  many  years.  It  was  now  without  a 
pastor.  The  last  minister,  excellent  as  I  know  him  to 
be,  had  pressed,  in  his  great  anxiety  for  usefulness,  the 
subject  of  revivals  too  far ;  and  it  produced  a  reaction 
unfavourable  to  his  comfort  and  continuance. 


RICHMOND. 


181 


la,  and  the 
,  from  Char- 
the  distant 
uildings  and 
ills,  relieved 
ing  foliage, 
its  summit ; 
;,  the  State- 
sun.     Few 

ibbath;  but, 
io  be  held  on 
)ve  forward, 
["his  left  me 
indebted  to 
ind  the  Rev. 
St  use  of  my 

gone  a  great 

e  there  were 

of  worship. 

or  infidelity. 

i,  and  it  was 

Slavery  had, 

i  are  thirteen 

the  Sabbath 

OMm  places 

angregations 

Jews  reside 

r  disqualified 

d  the  conse- 

irry,  and  are 

L  where  my 
lice,  labour- 
w  without  a 
mow  him  to 
•fulness,  the 
a  reaction 


t  visited  also,  with  interest,  the  mother  church  of  the 
town.  It  is  Episcopal,  and  supposed  to  be  the  oldest  in 
Virginia.  It  is  a  copy  of  one  of  our  village  churches, 
and  is  built  of  materials,  and  surrounded  by  a  brick  wall, 
which  have  been  sent  across  from  the  father-land.  Here 
is  also  what  is  called  the  Monumental  Church ;  its  por- 
tico is  the  sepulchre  for  nearly  sixty  persons,  who  perish- 
ed in  the  conflagration  of  the  theatre  years  since.  By- 
the-by,  the  theatre  has  never  flourished  here  from  that 
time  ;  I  saw  the  existing  one  in  circumstances  promising 
to  pass  out  of  existence  shortly.  Here  also  was  a  stri- 
king evidence  of  the  readiness  with  which  the  dogmas  of 
the  Unitarian  and  the  Universalist  will  symbolize.  They 
had  a  church  here  erected  by  them  jointly,  for  a  common 
act  of  worship ;  and  the  peculiarity  of  each  party  was 
attempted  to  be  shown  by  the  following  inscription,  that 
the  public  might  not  doubt  the  equality  of  the  partner- 
ship : — 

ERECTED    IN    1831, 

AND 

DEDICATED 

TO    THE    ONE    OOD,    AND    TO    JESUS    CHRIST, 

THE    SAVIOUR    OF    THE    WORLD. 

Richmond,  however,  is  still  the  great  mart  of  slavery ; 
and  the  interests  of  morality  and  religion  suffer  from  this 
cause.  Several  persons  of  the  greatest  wealth,  and 
therefore  of  the  greatest  consideration  in  the  town,  are 
known  slave-dealers  ;  and  their  influence,  in  addition  to 
the  actual  traffic,  is  of  course  unfavourable.  The  sale 
of  slaves  is  as  common,  and  produces  as  little  sensa  ion, 
as  that  of  cattle.  It  occurs  in  the  main  street,  and  be- 
fore the  door  of  the  party  who  is  commissioned  to  make 
the  sale.  The  following  is  an  advertisement  of  sale 
which  appeared  while  I  was  there : — 

"By  J.  &  S.  Cosby  &  Co. 

"Trust  Sale. 

"  By  virtue  of  a  deed  of  trust,  executed  to  the  sub- 

16 


182 


THUNDER-STORM. 


iU 


I  ^ 


',1 


i 


1:1 

I 


I: 


scriber  by  Hirain  Chiles,  I  shall  proceed  to  sell  for  cash, 
at  the  Auction  Store  of  J.  &  S.  Cosby  &  Co.,  on  Mon- 
day, the  4th  of  August  next,  the  following  property,  to 
wit : — Eliza,  Henry,  Nancy,  Monarchy,  Tom,  and  Ed- 
ward, and  six  feather-beds  and  bedsteads,  with  furni- 
ture. 

"Joseph  Mayo,  Trustee. 

"J.  &  S.  Cosby  &  Co.,  Auctioneers." 

I  had  a  desire  to  stay  and  witness  this  sale  ;  but  as  I 
must  have  sacrificed  the  greater  to  the  less  in  doing  so,  I 
kept  by  my  determination  to  go  forward. 

I  left,  therefore,  at  two  o'clock  on  the  Friday  for 
Fredericksburg.  The  road  was  flat  and  uninteresting ; 
the  weather  very  hot,  and*  we  had  to  travel  all  night. 
Moreover,  the  coach  was  quite  full,  and  not  supplied  with 
the  most  agreeable  company.  One  of  them  was  proud 
of  telling  us  that  he  was  an  unlucky  dog,  and  had  lost 
20,000  dollars  by  bad  debts.  Another  was  exclaiming 
against  the  brutes  who  would  not  be  accommodating  in  a 
coach,  that  he  might  engross  the  accommodation  to  him- 
self. There  was  a  young  woman  with  us,  of  decent  but 
independent  habits,  and  they  had  pleasure  in  bantering 
her.  She,  however,  was  a  match  for  them.  They 
thought,  in  one  instance,  they  had  got  the  laugh  against 
her;  and  she  exclaimed,  without  •confusion,  and  with 
much  shrewdness,  "  I  should  like  now  what  you  are 
laughing  at,  for  then  I  could  lau)^  .  ,oo."  They  were 
very  desirous  of  knowing  what  I  was ;  and  at  length  they 
proposed  that  they  should  guess  what  each  one  was,  and 
whence,  with  the  hope  of  getting  round  to  me.  The 
guessing  went  round  till  all  were  disposed  of  except  me. 
I  was  prepared  for  the  attack,  but  it  was  not  made. 
They  looked  at  each  other,  and  at  me,  but  no  one  ventur- 
ed on  the  question. 

In  the  morning  a  most  heavy  thunder-storm  came  on, 
and  attended  us  into  the  town.  We  had  had  several  of 
these,  and  of  wind-storms,  lately.  One  of  them,  near  a 
spot  I  passed,  must  have  been  a  tremendous  hurricane. 


I 


STEAMBOAT. 


183 


ill  for  cash, 
).,  on  Mon- 
property,  to 
1,  and  Ed- 
with  fumi- 


oneers. 


n 


3 ;  but  as  I 
doing  so,  I 

Friday  for 
interesting ; 
1  all  night, 
jpplied  with 
I  was  proud 
nd  had  lost 

exclaiming 
odatingin  a 
[tion  to  him- 
f  decent  but 
n  bantering 
lem.  They 
ugh  against 
and  with 
rhat  you  are 

They  were 

length  they 
ne  was,  and 

me.     The 

except  me. 

not  made. 

one  ventur- 

tn  came  on, 
I  several  of 
em,  near  a 
hunicane. 


It  tore  down  numerous  buildings,  prostrated  the  trees  in 
its  course,  and  killed  sixteen  or  twenty  persons. 

So  soon  as  the  storm  permitted,  I  made  my  way  to  the 
house  of  Mr.  Wilson,  the  esteemed  Presbyterian  minister 
of  this  place.  He  occupies  the  house  that  the  mother 
of  Washington  lived  in,  and  her  remains  lie  in  the  gar- 
den attached.  Here  a  bed,  and  every  other  domestic 
accommodation,  were  immediately  placed  at  my  use. 
My  friend  was  very  desirous  that  I  should  stay  over  the 
Sabbath,  but  when  he  found  that  my  mind  was  otherwise, 
he  was  equally  ready  to  help  me  on  my  way,  except  that 
he  thought  the  direction  in  which  J.  was  going  was  at  the 
time  very  unhealthy  ;  and  he  would  only  part  with  me  on 
a  promise  that  I  would,  by  writing,  assure  him  of  my 
welfare.  We  spent  a  very  pleasant,  and  to  me  profit- 
able, evening  together,  and  I  have  seldom  parted  with  a 
friend  in  such  haste,  and  with  such  regret. 


.  1 1 


LETTER  XVn. 

My  dear  Friend, 

I  HAD  thought  that  I  should  be  able  to  pass  to  the 
camp-ground  at  pleasure ;  but  I  found  that  if  I  went  at 
all,  I  must  leave  by  a  boat  tliat  started  the  next  morning. 
I  had  also  concluded  that  I  should  arrive  by  it  in  time  for 
the  afternoon  services,  but  in  the  event  I  was  in  this 
also  diisappoiuted. 

Early  in  the  morning  I  went  on  board  the  steamer  to 
pass  down  the  Rappahannoc.  It  is  what  is  called  a 
religious  boat.  There  are  Bibles  strewed  in  the  men's 
cabin,  and  a  subscription-box  for  the  Episcopal  Tract 
Society ;  and  in  the  ladies'  cabin  there  are  fancy  articles 
on  sale  for  missions.  But  this  religious  boat  had  not 
ceased  to  run  on  the  Sunday,  nor  had  the  captain  wholly 
broken  himself  of  swearing.     "He  had  wished,"  he 


•i"^r 


184 


RAPPAHANNOC. 


:  !   I; 


M:    • 


said,  "  to  avoid  the  Sunday ;  he  had  tried  all  days,  and 
none  would  suit  so  well ;  and  it  saved  a  day  to  men  of 
business ;" — a  sort  of  reasoning  familiar  in  more  coun- 
tries than  one. 

The  day  was  fine  and  tranquil,  and  the  atmosphere 
was  lighter  and  cooler  in  consequence  of  the  storm. 
There  were  but  few  persons  on  board,  and  they  employed 
themselves  in  reading,  singing,  and  conversation,  while  I 
sat  mostly  apart,  enjoying  the  quiet  of  nature,  and  of  my 
own  thoughts.  The  sail  down  the  river  was  beautiful. 
The  stream  was  narrower  than  is  usual,  and  winds  in  its 
course  ;  the  land  swells  and  falls  prettily,  while  the  illim- 
itable forest  runs  over  its  whole  surface.  We  were, 
however,  frequently  stopping  at  different  points  of  this 
forest  to  take  in  passengers,  which  assured  us  that  there 
was  habitation,  though  there  were  no  appearances  of  it. 
Those,  on  this  occasion,  who  were  taken  in,  were  reli- 
gious persons ;  and  at  noon  most  of  them  left  us.  I 
afterward  found  that  they  had  left  for  the  camp-ground, 
and  by  a  nearer  course.  As  I  was  quite  a  stranger,  and 
as  wherever  I  landed  I  should  still  require  lO  be  conveyed 
to  the  interior,  I  judged  it  safest  to  adhere  to  my  direc- 
tions, even  if  they  should  not  have  been  the  best. 

As  we  went  onward,  the  Rappahannoc  expanded 
beautifully  before  us,  offering  to  our  admiration  a  variety 
of  creeks  and  bays,  reposing  in  the  glowing  lights  of  the 
sun  and  the  cool  shades  of  the  forest;  while,  on  reach- 
ing deeper  waters,  an  immense  shoal  of  porpoises  joined 
us,  and  for  miles  amused  themselves  by  darting  and 
plunging  before  the  head  of  our  vessel,  with  amazing 
velocity.  At  length  we  came  to  Merry  Point,  the  place 
to  which  I  had  been  directed,  and  which  is  occupied  by 
Mr.  Jesse,  of  whom  I  was  assured  I  should  readily  re- 
ceive any  aid  I  might  require.  The  dwelling,  and  two 
or  three  merry  negroes,  were  all  that  appeared. 

The  captain,  in  my  behalf,  addressed  the  principal  of 
them.  "  Is  your  master  at  home  ?" — ^"  No." — "  Is  your 
mistress  at  home  ?" — "  O,  no— all  gone  to  the  camp." 
— «  Well,"  said  the  captain,  "  here's  a  gentleman  that 


SCENERY. 


185 


,  days,  and 

to  men  of 

noie  coun- 

itmosphere 
the  storm, 
y  employed 
ion,  while  I 
and  of  my 
s  beautiful, 
winds  in  its 
le  the  illim- 
We  were, 
)ints  of  this 
ts  that  there 
ances  of  it. 
a,  were  reli- 
left  us.     I 
amp-ground, 
stranger,  and 
be  conveyed 
to  my  direc- 
best. 

c   expanded 
on  a  variety 
lights  of  the 
e,  on  reach- 
toises  joined 
darting  and 
ith  amazing 
it,  the  place 
occupied  by 
readily  re- 
ig,  and  two 
led. 

principal  of 
I' — "  Is  your 
the  camp." 
itleman  that 


wants  him — can  you  take  him  in  1" — "  0,  yes,"  said  the 
merry  and  assured  fellow,  '*  all  as  well  as  if  master  was 
here  this  minute,  and  give  him  all  he  wants."  Notwith- 
standing this  assurance,  I  was  much  perplexed.  On  the 
one  hand,  I  must  leave  the  boat  here ;  there  was  no 
other  house  to  which  I  could  apply  ;  and  I  could  not  get 
over  to  the  camp-ground  that  evening.  On  the  other 
hand,  I  shrunk  from  making  free  with  a  residence  on  the 
mere  concurrence  of  the  servants,  and  in  the  absence 
of  the  head  of  the  family.  However,  I  thought  of  Vir- 
ginian hospitality,  and  reconciled  myself  to  going  on 
shore.  I  was  quickly  met  by  a  young  man,  a  relative 
of  the  family,  who  gave  me  welcome,  and  contributed 
to  assure  me  in  accepting  the  acconmiodations  of  the 
house. 

When  I  had  leisure  to  look  around  me,  I  felt  interested 
in  my  place  of  sojourn.  The  dwelling  was  a  neat  cot- 
tage, having  about  six  rooms,  and  kept  nicely  painted, 
with  a  few  ornaments  in  the  best  room,  such  as  side- 
board and  timepiece,  imported  from  Baltimore,  which  in- 
dicated property,  and  a  taste  for  improvement  on  the  part 
of  the  possessor.  Behind  it  was  a  small  clearance, 
redeemed  from  the  forest,  and  under  good  cultivation; 
before  it,  a  grass-plot,  enclosed  with  a  hedge  of  the 
althea.  On  the  one  side  was  a  cabin  for  the  use  of  the 
slaves  ;  and  on  the  other  a  handsome  walnut,  over- 
shadowing the  warmer  aspect  of  the  cottage.  The  land 
fell  away  in  slopes  to  the  river,  and  was  adorned  by  the 
oak,  the  acacia,  the  catalpa,  and  the  woodbine ;  and  the 
river  here  wound  round  the  point,  and  formed  a  lovely 
creek,  which  ran  into  land,  and  was  lost  in  the  woods. 
On  the  opposite  banks  of  the  creek  was  another  cottage, 
surmounted  by  poplars,  and  surrounded  by  fruit-trees 
and  corn-fields,  which  ran  down  the  verdant  banks,  and 
dipped  their  feet  in  the  placid  waters.  These  were  all 
the  signs  of  human  habitation ;  and  all  around  you  stood, 
in  awful  silence  and  majesty,  the  eternal  forest.  The 
declining  sun  gleamed  athwart  the  scene,  giving  depth  to 
the  shadows  of  the  woods,  and  illuminating  the  bosom 

16* 


1 1  ■ 


186 


HOSPITALITY. 


1, 


M  i :' 


s 


Pf! 


n 

I: 


of  the  waters.  But  all  was  still — perfectly  still ;  except 
where  the  light  canoe  was  gliding  like  magic  over  the 
creek,  and  leaving  not  a  ripple  behind. 

I  was  called  from  this  lovely  picture  by  the  announce- 
ment of  supper  or  tea.  A  small  clean  napkin  was 
placed  on  the  table,  and  there  were  spread  over  it  coffee, 
hot  bread,  butter,  bacon,  molasses,  and  a  bowl  of  curds 
and  whey.  A  female  slave  attended,  to  fan  you,  and  to 
supply  your  wants. 

On  retiring  to  bed,  I  was  introduced  to  a  small  room 
in  the  roof  of  the  cottage,  but  very  nicely  provided  with 
all  I  could  want.  My  attendant  was  a  little  black  girl. 
She  glanced  a  quick  eye  on  every  thing,  to  ascertain 
that  all  was  right,  and  then  stood  in  silence,  looking  to 
me  for  commands.  She  seemed  surprised,  and  did  not 
at  first  understand  me  when  I  dismissed  her  ;  from  the 
circumstance,  I  suppose,  that  they  are  accustomed  to 
render  small  attentions  which  we  do  not  expect.  My 
little  slave  was  also  the  first  thing  that  met  my  eye  in 
the  early  morning.  I  had  thought  I  had  secured  my 
door ;  but  she  had  managed  to  enter,  and  when  I  awoke 
she  was  creeping,  with  shoeless  foot,  over  the  floor. 
Her  duty  then  was  to  supply  you  with  fresh  water ;  as, 
by  standing  through  the  night,  it  becomes  disagreeably 
hot. 

My  young  friend  had  met  my  wishes,  in  providing  for 
a  movement  towards  the  camp  in  the  morning ;  and  by 
six  o'clock  we  had  breakfasted,  and  had  vaulted  into  our 
saddles.  We  were,  however,  scarcely  on  our  way  before 
we  fell  in  with  Mr.  Jesse  himself.  He  had  heard  of 
my  arrival ;  had  feared  I  should  not  be  able  to  get  over ; 
and  had  lef%,  at  break  of  day,  to  fetch  me.  This  was, 
indeed,  very  kind  ;  it  put  me  at  my  ease,  and  made  the 
way  plain  and  pleasant  to  me.  But  how  it  could  have 
happened  that  they  should  hear  of  my  coming,  greatly 
surprised  me.  Mr.  Jesse  explained,  that  some  person 
at  the  camp  had  been  in  Richmond  when  I  was  there, 
and  had  overheard  me  express  an  intention  to  go.  This 
was  enough  to  awaken  attention ;  and  I  found  that  they 


r 


CAMP-MEETING. 


187 


still;  except 
igic  over  the 

le  announce- 
napkin  was 
ver  it  coffee, 
owl  of  curds 
1  yon,  and  to 

1  small  room 
provided  with 
ie  black  girl, 
to  ascertain 
!e,  looking  to 
,  and  did  not 
er ;  from  the 
:cu8tomed  to 
expect.  My 
let  my  eye  in 

I  secured  my 
vhen  I  awoke 
irer  the  floor, 
h  water ;  as, 

disagreeably 

providing  for 
ning ;  and  by 
ulted  into  our 
ur  way  before 
had  heard  of 
3  to  get  over ; 
This  was, 
md  made  the 
it  could  have 
ming,  greatly 
some  person 

I I  was  there, 
to  go.     This 

)und  that  they 


had  been  expecting  me  daily ;  that  the  ministers  had 
held  an  exercise  of  prayer,  that  my  arrival  might  be  an 
occasion  of  profit,  and  my  judgment  of  their  meeting 
without  prejudice. 

So  soon  as  my  kind  friend  had  refreshed  himself  and 
his  horse,  we  started  again.  We  were  now  on  the 
Northern  Neck,  an  isthmus  of  various  width,  and  some 
150  miles  long,  which  is  separated  from  the  mainland 
of  Virginia  by  the  Rappahannoc.  We  had  twelve 
miles  to  travel,  and  chiefly  through  pine  barrens ;  reaches 
of  land  that  are  so  denominated,  because  they  will  only 
bear  pine.  The  morning  was  bright  and  elastic ;  I  had 
an  interesting  companion,  and  my  expectations  were 
raised  with  the  prospects  before  me.  As  we  advanced, 
the  land  undulated  pleasantly,  the  soil  improved,  and 
other  timber  of  loftier  growth  appeared.  When  evidently 
approaching  the  spot,  my  eye  pierced  through  the  forest 
in  search  of  some  indications.  We  got  at  last  into  less 
frequented  paths ;  wound  again  and  again  round  the 
clustering  trees  and  opposing  stumps,  and  then  came  to 
what  I  regarded  as  the  signs  of  the  object  sought. 
There  we^e,  under  some  trees,  pens  for  the  safety  of 
horses ;  then  there  were  carriages  of  all  descriptions, 
appearing  with  horses  and  oxen,  secured  and  at  rest, 
and  occasionally  a  negro  in  attendance  on  them.  Then 
you  passed  by  a  large  log-house,  which  was  erected  for 
the  time,  to  supply  lodging  and  food  to  such  as  needed 
them.  Now  you  saw,  in  several  directions,  the  parts 
of  cabins,  made  of  the  pine-tree,  and  of  the  same  colour, 
and  only  distinguished  from  it  by  the  horizontal  lines  in 
which  it  ran ;  and  presently  you  found  yourself  at  the 
entrance  of  all  you  wished  to  see.  ' 

There  were  in  lines,  intersected  by  the  trees,  a  number 
of  tents  composed  of  log-wood,  forming  a  quadrangle 
of  about  180  feet.  In  the  centre  of  the  further  line,  in 
this  square,  there  was  a  stand  for  the  accommodation 
of  the  preachers,  which  would  contain  twelve  or  four- 
teen persons.  Behind  this  were  stems  of  trees  laid 
down  as  seats  for  the  negroes,  running  off  in  radiating 


•  ( 


"\  — 


188 


CAMP-MEETINO. 


il 


I 
i 


lines,  and  closed  by  some  tents  for  their  use,  and  forni' 
ing  the  segment  of  a  circle.  Before  the  stand,  or  pulpit, 
a  rail  was  carried  round  the  first  five  or  six  seats,  which 
we  called  the  altar;  and  seats,  composed  of  tree-stems, 
filled  up  the  centre  of  the  square.  Within,  without, 
everywhere,  the  oak,  the  chestnut,  and  the  fir  appeared, 
and  of  finest  growth  ;  only  those  within  the  quadrangle 
were  cleared  of  underwood,  and  trimmed  up  to  aid  the 
sight,  so  that  they  resembled  the  beautiful  pillars  of  a 
cathedral ;  while  their  lofty  heads,  unpruned  by  the  hand 
of  man,  united,  and  made  a  fohated  ceiling,  such  as  no 
cathedral  could  approach,  and  through  which  the  blue 
sky  and  bright  sun  were  glancing. 

It  was  now  the  hour  of  morning  worship.  The  pul- 
pit was  full ;  the  seats  were  covered  with  waiting  wor- 
shippers. I  approached  the  stand  ;  and  was  welcomed 
by  the  brethren.  We  rose,  and  united  in  a  hymn  of 
praise.  I  had  never,  in  such  circumstances,  joined  in 
offering  such  worship.  I  could  scarcely  tell  what  sen- 
sations possessed  me.  I  hope  I  was  not  void  of  those 
which  are  devotional,  but  I  was  chiefly  filled  for  the 
moment  with  those  of  wonder.  When  I  looked  round 
on  the  scene  which  had  broken  so  suddenly  upon  me, 
every  thing  was  so  novel,  so  striking,  and  so  interesting, 
as  to  appear  like  the  work  of  enchantment,  and  to  re- 
quire time  fully  to  realize. 

But  I  must  endeavour  to  give  you  some  of  the  ser- 
vices in  detail,  as  you  will  desire  exact  information. 
The  singing  to  which  I  have  referred,  was  followed  by 
prayer  and  a  sermon.  The  text  was,  "  If  God  spared 
not  his  own  Son,"  &c. — The  preacher  was  a  plain  man, 
and  without  education  ;  and  he  had  small  regard  either 
to  logic  or  grammar.  He  had,  however,  as  is  common 
to  such  persons,  an  aspiration  after  high-sounding  terms 
and  sentiments,  which  stood  in  strange  opposition  to  the 
general  poverty  and  incorrectness  of  his  expressions. 
The  proposition,  for  instance,  raised  on  his  text  was 
this : — That  the  gift  of  Christ  to  sinners  is  the  thing 
set  forth  with  most  life,  animation,  and  eloquence,  of  any 


use,  and  fomi' 
stand,  or  pulpit, 
lix  seats,  which 
1  of  tree-stems, 
/"ithin,  without, 
tie  fir  appeared, 

the  quadrangle 
id  up  to  aid  the 
iful  pillars  of  a 
nedby  the  hand 
Ing,  such  as  no 
which  the  blue 

hip.     The  pul- 

h  waiting  wor- 

was  welcomed 

in  a  hymn  of 
mces,  joined  in 
f  tell  what  sen- 
)t  void  of  those 
r  filled  for  the 
I  looked  round 
jenly  upon  me, 

so  interesting, 
ent,  and  to  re- 


me  of  the  ser- 

information. 

is  followed  by 

f  God  spared 

IS  a  plain  man, 

regard  either 
as  is  common 
lounding  terms 
position  to  the 
expressions. 

his  text  was 
s  is  the  thing 
quence,  of  any 


CAMP-MEETING. 


189 


thing  in  the  world.  Such  a  proposition,  though  badly 
propounded,  was  of  course  above  such  a  man  ;  but 
though  what  he  said  did  but  little  for  his  proposition,  it 
was  said  with  earnestness  and  pious  feeUng,  and  it  told 
on  the  plain  and  serious  portions  of  his  audience.  He 
was  followed  by  a  brother  of  higher  qualifications,  who 
took  up  the  close  of  his  subject,  and  addressed  it  to  the 
conscience  with  skill  and  effect.  The  exhortation  was 
terminated  by  an  invitation  to  come  and  take  a  seat  within 
the  altar.  These  seats  were,  when  wanted,  in  other 
words,  the  anxious  seats ;  two  of  them  were  cleared, 
and  a  suitable  hymn  was  sung,  that  persons  might  have 
time  to  comply.  Very  lew  came  ;  chiefly  a  mother  with 
her  boy,  who  had  previously  seemed  to  court  notice. 
The  lad  had-  indulged  in  noisy  crying  and  exclamation ; 
he  was  in  the  hand  of  an  indiscreet  parent,  and  had  not 
been  sufficiently  discouraged  by  the  ministers.  The 
exhortations,  and  then  the  singing,  were  renewed ;  but 
still  with  small  effect,  as  to  the  use  of  the  prepared 
seats ;  and  so  this  service  closed.  Whatever  may  be 
the  claims  of  the  anxious  seat,  it  was  a  hazardous  ex- 
periment, where  it  was  evident  the  previous  services  had 
produced  no  deep  and  controlling  impression. 

The  afternoon  service  was  very  similar  in  arrangement 
and  in  effect.  The  text  was,  "  Let  the  wicked  man  for- 
sake his  way,"  «&c. ;  but  the  preacher  certainly  made  a 
feeble  use  of  a  powerful  passage.  It  was  interrupted, 
too,  by  a  noisy  and  intemperate  man,  who  had  found  his 
way  hither  ;  yet  it  was  followed  by  exhortation  superior 
to  itself,  and  an  urgent  appeal  to  the  people  to  come  for- 
ward and  separate  themselves.  The  results  were  not 
better  than  before.  The  only  apology  for  thus  pressing 
under  unfavourable  circumstances  was,  that  the  meetings 
had  been  held  now  for  three  days  ;  that  the  solemn  ser- 
vices of  the  Sabbath  had  just  passed  over  the  people  ; 
and  the  worthy  ministers  were  anxious  for  visible  fruit, 
not  only  as  arising  from  the  present  appeal,  but  from  past 
impressions. 

These  were  the  more  public  and  regular  services  ;  but 


I'  ' 


190 


CAMP-MEETINO. 


!        1 


Other  ongagemonts  were  always  fulfilling.  The  ministen 
were  invited  by  their  friends  to  the  several  tents,  to  ex- 
hort, and  sing,  and  pray,  so  that  when  they  ceased  in  one 
place,  they  were  renewed  in  another.  And  at  all  times 
those  who  liked  to  gather  within  the  'tar,  and  sing,  were 
allowed  to  do  so ;  and  as,  when  the.  '  'ere  weary,  oth- 
ers came  up  and  supplied  their  places,  the  singing  was 
without  ceasing. 

What  you  cannot  escape  wearies  you.  The  services 
had  been  long,  and  not  very  interesting  ;  and  still  the 
singing  was  continued.  After  getting  some  refreshments 
with  kind  friends,  I  was  glad  to  stroll  away  into  the  for- 
est, and  to  ruminate  on  what  I  had  seen  and  heard.  Now 
that  I  had  leisure  to  admire,  it  was  a  lovely  evening. 
Through  many  a  green  alley  I  wandered  ;  and  often  did 
I  stop  and  gaze  on  those  exquisite  combinations  of  light, 
shade,  and  picture,  which  forest  scenery  suppUes  on  a  fair 
summer  evening.  In  all  my  wanderings,  the  singing  fol- 
lowed me,  and  was  a  clew  to  my  return ;  but  it  now 
formed  a  pleasing  accompaniment  to  my  solitary  walk, 
for  it  did  not  force  itself  on  the  ear,  but  rose  and  fell  softly, 
sweetly,  on  the  evening  breeze. 

Soon,  however,  the  hoarse  notes  of  the  horn  vibrated 
through  the  air,  and  summoned  me  to  return.  It  was 
the  notice  for  worship  at  sundown  ;  and  as  there  is  little 
twilight  here,  the  nightfall  comes  on  suddenly.  I  has- 
tened to  obey  the  call,  and  took  my  place  with  the  breth- 
ren on  the  preachers'  stand.  The  day  had  now  expired, 
and  with  it  the  scene  was  entirely  changed,  as  if  by  magic, 
and  it  was  certainly  very  impressive.  On  the  stand  were 
about  a  dozen  ministers,  and  over  their  heads  were  sus- 
pended several  three-pronged  lamps,  pouring  down  their 
radiance  on  their  heads,  and  surrounding  them  with  such 
lights  and  shadows  as  Rembrandt  would  love  to  copy. 
Behind  the  stand  were  clustered  about  300  negroes,  who, 
with  their  black  faces  and  white  dresses  thrown  into  par- 
tial lights,  were  a  striking  object.  Before  us  was  a  full- 
sized  congregation  collected,  more  or  less  revealed,  as 
they  happened  to  be  near  or  distant  from  the  points  of 


illumi 
trees 
sccm( 
Aroun 
were 
of  pin 
ingup 
amazii 
ving  li 
thing 
tiince 
'llcring  t 
sparks 
shot  a 
into  da 
more  p 
)cared 
was  hi( 
It  was 
)e  dim! 
if  it  ros 
vaulted 
cealed  1 
dwelt  t 
limits,  1 
unboun^ 
to  whic 
now  0 
the  ima 
But 
sustain 
now  sli 
were  ft 
one,  wl 
terical 
smiling 
sort  of 
at  mee 
Hov 


il- 


g.  The  ministers 
veral  tents,  to  ex- 
:hey  ceased  in  one 

And  at  all  times 
tar,  and  sing,  were 

"  'ere  weary,  oth- 
,  the  singing  was 

u.  The  services 
ng  ;  and  still  the 
joine  refreshments 
away  into  the  for- 
1  and  heard.  Now 
I  lovely  evening, 
ed  ;  and  often  did 
ibinations  of  light, 
'  supplies  on  a  fair 
^s,  the  singing  fol- 
turn;  but  it  now 
my  solitary  walk, 
ose  and  fell  softly, 

the  horn  vibrated 
return.     It  was 
as  there  is  little 
addenly.     I  has- 
e  with  the  breth- 
lad  now  expired, 
jd,  as  if  by  magic, 
3n  the  stand  were 
heads  were  sus- 
■uring  down  their 
r  them  with  such 
d  love  to  copy. 
00  negroes,  who, 
thrown  into  par- 
>re  us  was  a  full- 
ess  revealed,  as 
n  the  points  of 


CAMP-MEETINO. 


191 


;" 

Mil 
cr 


illumination.     Over  the  people  were  suspended  from  the 
trees  a  number  of  Knuill  lamps,  which,  in  the  distance, 
seemed  like    stars    sparkling   between  tlioir  branches. 
Around  the  congregation,  and  within  the  line  of  the  tents, 
were  placed  some  elevated  tripods,  on  which  large  fires 
of  pine  wood  were  burning,  cracking,  blazing ;  and  shoot- 
ng  upward  like  sacrificial  flames  to  heaven.     They  gave 
amazing  power  to  the  picture,  by  casting  a  flood  of  wa- 
ving light  on  the  objects  near  to  them,  and  leaving  every 
liing  else  in  comparative  obscurity.     Still  at  greater  dis- 
iince  might  be  seen,  in  several  directions,  the  dull  flick- 
jpjring  flame  of  the  now  neglected  domestic  fire  ;  and  the 
! ;  sparks  emitted  from  it,  together  with  the  firefly,  rose  and 
'    shot  across  the  scene  like  meteors,  and  then  dropped 
into  darkness.     Never  was  darkness  made  more  visible, 
more  present.     All  the  lights  that  were  enkindled  ap- 
icared  only  to  have   this  effect;    as  everywhere  more 
was  hidden  than  seen.     If  the  eye  sought  for  the  tents, 
it  was  only  here  and  there  that  the  dark  face  of  one  could 
ie  dimly  seen  ;  the  rest  was  wrapped  in  darkness ;  and 
f  it  rose  with  the  trees  around  you,  the  fine  verdant  and 
vaulted  roof  which  they  spread  over  you  was  mostly  con- 
cealed by  the  mysterious  and  thickening  shadows  which 
dwelt  there.     Then,  if  you  would  pierce  beyond  these 
limits,  there  lay  around  you  and  over  you,  and  over  the 
unbounded  forest  that  enclosed  you,  a  world  of  darkness, 
to  which  your  little  illuminated  spot  was  as  nothing.     I 
ilinow  of  no  circumstances  having  more  power  to  strike 
the  imagination  and  the  heart. 

But  to  the  exercises.  The  singing,  which  had  been 
sustained  in  all  the  interval  by  some  younger  persons, 
now  showed  its  results.  Two  or  three  young  women 
were  fainting  under  the  exhaustion  and  excitement ;  and 
one,  who  was  reported  to  me  as  a  Methodist,  was  in  hys- 
terical ecstasy,  raising  her  hands,  rolling  her  eyes,  and 
smiling  and  muttering.  It  appeared  that  she  courted  this 
sort  of  excitement  as  many  do  a  dram,  and  was  frequent 
at  meetings  of  this  character,  for  the  sake  of  enjoying  it. 
However,  after  disposing  of  this  slight  interruption,  the 


4 


^.^. 


192 


CAMP-MEETING. 


h. 


Uif- 


i|  t 


1 


regular  service  began.  It  was  to  be  composed  of  exhor- 
tation and  prayer;  and  it  was  excellently  conducted. 
The  leading  ministers,  who  had  been  wearied  by  the 
claims  of  the  Sabbath,  had  evidently  reserved  themselves 
for  this  period.  The  first  address  referred  to  the  past ; 
the  effort  which  had  been  made  ;  the  results  which  ought 
to  follow,  but  which  had  not  followed,  and  which  the 
speaker  feared  would  not  follow.  It  was  closed  by  an 
affectionate  expression  of  concern  that  they  would  now 
show  that  it  had  not  been  in  vain.  The  next  exhortation 
was  on  conversion.  Some  skilful  and  orthodox  distinc- 
tions were  established  on  the  subject,  as  it  involves  the 
agency  of  the  Spirit  and  the  agency  of  man.  It  was  dis- 
criminative, but  it  was  plain  and  pungent ;  and  threw  all 
the  responsibility  of  perversity  and  refusal  on  the  sinner. 
It  made  a  strong  impression. 

The  third  exhortation  was  on  indifference  and  despond- 
ency. The  subject  was  well  timed  and  well  treated. 
The  speaker  combated  these  evils  as  likely  to  be  a  pre- 
ventive in  most  persons  in  coming  to  a  decision ;  and  he 
made  a  wise  use  of  evangelical  truth  for  this  purpose. 
He  supported  the  other  addresses  by  an  earnest  appeal 
to  separate  themselves,  and  show  that  they  were  resolved 
to  rank  on  the  Lord's  side.  The  people  were  evidently 
much  more  interested  than  they  had  been ;  and  the 
preachers  were  desirous  of  bringing  them  to  an  issue, 
Exhortation  and  singing  were  renewed  ;  and  it  was  pro- 
posed that  they  should  go  down  and  pass  among  the  peo- 
ple, for  the  purpose  of  conversing  with  them,  and  indu- 
cing them  to  come  forward.  By  these  personal  applica- 
tions and  persuasions,  a  considerable  number  were  in- 
duced to  come  forward ;  and  fervent  prayer  of  a  suitable 
character  was  offered  in  their  behalf. 

It  was  already  late,  and  here,  at  least,  the  service 
should  have  stopped.  This  was  the  opinion  of  the  wiser 
and  elder  brethren,  but  they  did  not  press  it ;  and  those  of 
weaker  mind  and  stronger  nerve  thought  that  the  work  had 
only  just  begun.  It  was  wished  that  I  should  retire,  but 
I  was  desirous  of  witnessing  the  scene.     Other  exhorta- 


►: 


a 


CAMP-MEETING. 


193 


mposed  of  exhor* 
jntly  conducted, 
wearied  by  the 
3rved  themselves 
rred  to  the  past ; 
suits  which  ought 
I,  and  which  the 
as  closed  by  an 
they  would  now- 
next  exhortation 
orthodox  distinc- 
s  it  involves  the 
nan.  It  was  dis- 
it ;  and  threw  all 
sal  on  the  sinner. 

nee  and  despond- 
nd  well  treated, 
kely  to  be  a  pre- 
decision ;  and  he 
for  this  purpose, 
in  earnest  appeal 
ley  were  resolved 
e  were  evidently 
I  been ;  and  the 
Lcm  to  an  issue, 
and  it  was  pro- 
;s  among  the  peo- 
1  them,  and  indu- 
personal  applica- 
number  were  in-  t 
lyer  of  a  suitable 

east,  the  service  I 
nion  of  the  wiser 
)  it ;  and  those  of 
that  the  work  had 
should  retire,  but 
Other  exhorta- 


tions and  prayers,  of  a  lower  but  more  noisy  character, 
were  made,  with  endless  singing;  favourite  couplets 
would  be  taken  up  and  repeated  without  end.  The  effect 
was  various,  but  it  was  not  good ;  some,  with  their  feel- 
ings worn  out,  had  passed  the  crisis,  and  it  was  in  vain 
to  seek  to  impress  them ;  while  others  were  unduly  and 
unprofitably  excited. 

None  discovered  this  more  than  the  blacks.  They 
separated  themselves  from  the  general  service,  and  sought 
their  own  preacher  and  anxious  seat.  A  stand  was  pres- 
ently fixed  between  two  trees  ;  a  preacher  was  seen  ap- 
pearing and  disappearing  between  them,  as  his  violent 
gesticulation  caused  him  to  lean  backwards  or  forwards. 
The  blacks  had  now  things  to  their  mind,  and  they  pressed 
round  the  speaker,  on  their  feet  or  their  knees,  with  ex- 
tended hands,  open  lips,  and  glistening  eyes :  while  the 
strong  lights  of  a  tripod,  close  to  which  they  had  assem- 
bled, fell  across  the  scene,  and  gave  it  great  interest  and 
power. 

As  the  scenes  on  either  side  the  stand  were  not  dumb 
show,  the  evil  was,  that  the  voices  of  the  parties  speak- 
ing met  each  other,  and  made  confusion ;  and  as  either 
party  raised  his  voice,  to  remedy  the  evil,  it  became 
worse.  To  myself,  placed  at  the  centre  of  observation, 
this  had  a  neutralizing,  and  sometimes  a  humorous  effect ; 
but  to  the  two  congregations,  which  were  now  reduced  in 
numbers,  it  produced  no  distraction  :  they  were  severally 
engrossed,  if  not  with  their  particular  minister,  with  their 
particular  feelings.  It  was  now  considerably  past  eleven 
o'clock ;  1  thought  I  had  seen  all  the  forms  which  the 
subject  was  likely  to  take  ;  and  I  determined  to  answer 
the  request  of  my  friends,  and  retire. 

I  had  been  assured  that  a  bed  was  reserved  for  me  at 
the  preachers'  tent,  and  I  now  went  in  search  of  it.  The 
tent  is  constructed  like  the  rest,  and  is  about  eighteeti 
feet  by  fourteen.  As  the  ministers  are  expected  to  take 
their  meals  at  the  other  tents,  this  is  prepared  as  a  lodg- 
ing-room. An  inclined  shelf,  about  six  feet  wide  and 
four  high,  runs  along  the  entire  side  of  it,  and  it  is  sup- 

Vol.  I.— I  17 


194 


CAMP-MEETINCr. 


■  )   i 


11 


plied  with  six  beds.  I  chose  the  one  in  the  farther  cor- 
ner, in  the  hope  of  escaping  interruption ;  as  tho  bed  next 
to  me  was  already  occupied  by  a  person  asleep.  I  re- 
lieved myself  of  my  upper  garments,  and  laid  myself 
down  in  my  weariness  to  rest.  The  other  beds  soon  got 
filled.  But  still  the  brethren  were  coming  to  seek  ac- 
commodation. One  of  them  crept  up  by  the  side  of  the 
person  next  to  me  ;  and  as  the  bed  would  only  suit  one, 
he  really  lay  on  the  margin  of  his  and  mine.  Thus  dis- 
composed, my  resolution  was  immediately  taken  not  to 
sleep  at  all.  There  was,  however,  no  need  of  this  proud 
resolution,  for  that  night  there  was  to  be  no  sleep  for  me. 
There  were  still  other  parties  to  come,  and  beds  to  be 
provided.  After  this  there  was  the  singing  renewed,  and 
still  renewed,  till  youth  and  enthusiasm  were  faint  and 
weary,  and  then  it  died  away.  Still  there  remained  the 
barking  of  the  watch-dogs,  the  sawing  of  the  kat-e-dids 
and  locusts,  and  the  snoring  of  my  more  favoured  com- 
panions, and  these  were  incessant.  Sometimes  I  found 
diversion  in  listening  to  them,  as  they  mingled  in  the 
ear,  and  in  deciding  which  was  most  musical,  most  mel- 
ancholy ;  and  frequently  I  turned  away  in  weariness,  and 
fixed  my  eye  on  the  open  crevices  of  the  hut,  looking  for 
the  first  approach  of  day;  and,  in  my  impatience,  as 
often  mistaking  for  it  the  gleaming  lights  of  the  pine  fires. 

When  the  sun  actually  rose,  the  horn  blew  for  prayers. 
To  me,  all  restless  as  I  had  been,  it  was  a  joyful  sound. 
I  waited  till  others  had  dressed,  that  I  might  do  so  with 
greater  quiet.  I  stole  away  into  the  forest,  and  was 
much  refreshed  by  the  morning  breeze  and  fresh  air.  It 
was  a  very  pleasing  and  unexpected  sight  to  observe,  as 
you  wandered  in  supposed  solitariness,  here  and  there  an 
individual  half  concealed,  with  raised  countenance  and 
hands,  worshipping  the  God  of  heaven,  and  occasionally 
two  or  three  assembled  for  the  same  purpose,  and  agree- 
ing to  ask  the  same  blessings  from  the  same  Father. 
This  was,  indeed,  to  people  the  forest  with  sacred  things 
and  associations. 

On  my  return,  the  ministers  renewed  their  kind  appli- 


;<' 


CAMP-MEETING. 


195 


he  farther  crof- 
as  tho  bed  next 
asleep.     I  re- 
el laid  myself 
-  beds  soon  got 
g  to  seek  ac- 
the  side  of  the 
only  suit  one, 
e.     Thus  dis- 
'  taken  not  to 
d  of  this  proud 
>  sleep  for  me. 
ind  beds  to  be 
r  renewed,  and 
vere  faint  and 
!  remained  the 
the  kat-e-dids 
favoured  com- 
etimes  I  found 
lingled  in  the 
cal,  most  mel- 
iveariness,  and 
lut,  looking  for 
mpatience,  as 
the  pine  fires. 
w  for  prayers, 
joyful  sound, 
fht  do  so  with 
rest,  and  was 
fresh  air.     It 
to  observe,  as 
3  and  there  an 
intenance  and 
I  occasionally 
se,  and  agree- 
same  Father, 
sacred  things 

iir  kind  appli- 


cation to  me  to  preach  on  the  morning  of  this  day.  I 
begged  to  be  excused,  as  I  had  had  no  rest,  and  had 
taken  cold,  and  was  not  prepared  to  commit  myself  to  the 
peculiarities  of  their  service,  and  which  they  might  deem 
essential.  They  met  again :  and  unanimously  agreed  to 
press  it  on  me ;  "it  should  be  the  ordinary  service,  and 
nothing  more  ;  and  as  an  expectation  had  been  created  by 
my  presence,  many  would  come,  under  its  influence,  and 
it  would  place  any  other  minister  at  great  disadvantage.'" 
My  heart  was  with  this  people  and  the  leading  pastors, 
and  I  consented  to  preach. 

The  usual  prayer-meeting  was  held  at  eight  o'clock. 
It  was  conducted  by  Mr.  Jeter.  Prayers  were  offered 
for  several  classes,  and  with  good  effect.  To  me  it  was 
a  happy  introduction  to  the  more  public  service  to  come. 
I  wandered  away  again  into  my  beloved  forest,  to  pre- 
serve my  impressions,  and  to  collect  my  thoughts.  At 
eleven  o'clock  the  service  began.  I  took  my  place  on 
the  stand ;  it  was  quite  full.  The  seats,  and  all  the  ave- 
nues to  them,  were  also  quite  full.  Numbers  were 
standing,  and  for  the  sake  of  being  within  hearing,  were 
contented  to  stand.  It  was  evident  that  rumour  had  gone 
abroad,  and  that  an  expectation  had  been  created,  that  a 
stranger  would  preach  this  morning,  for  there  was  a  great 
influx  of  people,  and  of  the  most  respectable  class  which 
this  country  furnishes.  There  were  not  less  than  1,500 
persons  assembled.  Mr.  Taylor  offered  fervent  and 
suitable  prayer.  It  remained  for  me  to  preach.  I  can 
only  say  that  I  did  so  with  eariiestness  and  freedom.  I 
soon  felt  that  I  had  the  attention  and  confidence  of  the 
congregation,  and  this  gave  me  confidence.  I  took  care, 
in  passing,  as  my  subject  allowed,  to  withdraw  my  sanc- 
tion from  any  thing  noisy  and  exclamatory ;  and  there 
was,  through  the  discourse,  nothing  of  the  kind  ■  but  there 
was  a  growing  attention  and  stillness  over  the  people. 
The  closing  statements  and  appeals  were  evidently  fal- 
ling en  the  conscience  and  heart,  with  still  advancing 
power.  The  people  generally  leaned  forward,  to  catch 
what  was  said.     Many  rose  from  their  seats  ;  and  many« 

I  2 


'Ssp: 


196 


CAMP-MEETING. 


1/   i 


Stirred  with  grief,  sunk  down,  as  if  to  hide  themselves 
from  observation ;  but  all  was  perfectly  still.  Silently 
the  tear  fell;  and  silently  the  sinner  shuddered.  I 
ceased.  Nobody  moved.  I  looked  round  to  the  minis- 
teis  for  some  one  to  give  out  a  hymn.  No  one  looked 
at  me — no  one  moved.  Every  moment,  the  silence,  the 
stillness,  became  more  solemn  and  overpowering.  Now, 
here  and  there,  might  be  heard  suppressed  sobbing  arising 
on  the  silence.  But  it  could  be  suppressed  no  longer — 
the  fountains  of  feeling  were  burst  open,  and  one  universal 
wail  sprung  from  the  people  and  ministers,  while  the 
whole  mass  sunk  down  on  their  knees,  as  if  imploring 
some  one  to  pray.  I  stood  resting  on  the  desk,  over- 
whelmed like  the  people.  The  presiding  pastor  arose, 
and,  throwing  his  arms  round  my  neck,  exclaimed,  '^Pray, 
brother,  pray  !  I  fear  many  of  my  charge  will  be  found 
at  the  left  hand  of  the  Judge  !  Oh,  pray,  brother,  pray 
for  us !"  and  then  he  cast  himself  on  the  floor  with  his 
brethren,  to  join  in  the  prayer.  But  I  could  not  pray  l 
I  must  have  been  more  or  less  than  man  to  have  uttered 
prayer  at  that  moment !  Nor  was  it  necessary.  All,  in 
that  hour,  were  intercessors  with  God,  with  tears,  and 
cries,  and  groans  unutterable. 

So  soon  as  I  could  conunand  my  state  of  feeling,  I 
tried  to  offer  prayer.  My  broken  voice  rose  gradually 
on  the  troubled  cries  of  the  people,  and  gradually  they 
subsided,  so  that  they  could  hear  and  concur  in  the  com- 
mon  supplications.  It  ceased,  and  the  people  rose. 
We  seemed  a  changed  people  to  each  other.  No  aiie 
appeared  disposed  to  move  from  the  spot,  and  yet  no  one 
seemed  disposed  for  ordinary  exercises.  Elder  Taylor 
moved  forward  and  remarked — "That  it  was  evident 
nothing  but  prayer  suited  them  at  this  time.  And  as  so 
many  had  been  impressed  by  the  truth,  who  had  not  be- 
fore, he  wished,  if  they  were  willing,  to  bring  it  to  the 
test  of  prayer."  He  therefore  proposed  that  if  such  per- 
sons wished  to  acknowledge  the  impression  received,  and 
to  join  in  prayer  for  their  personal  salvation,  they  should 
9how  it  by  kneeling  down,  and  he  would  pray  with  them^ 


I 


mt  i 


CAMP-MEETING. 


197 


dde  themselves 
still.  Silently 
shuddered.  I 
id  to  the  minis- 
No  one  looked 
the  silence,  the 
wering.  Now, 
sobbing  arising 
led  no  longer — 
id  one  universal 
ters,  while  the 
as  if  imploring 
the  desk,  over- 
ig  pastor  arose, 
claimed,  "Pray, 
e  will  be  found 
y,  brother,  pray 
e  floor  with  his 
:ould  not  pray  I 
to  have  uttered 
issary.  All,  in 
with  tears,  and 

te  of  feeling,  I 
rose  gradually 
gradually  they 
;ur  in  the  com- 
s  people  rose, 
rther.  No  one 
and  yet  no  one 
Elder  Taylor 
was  evident 
e.  And  as  so 
ho  had  not  be- 
bring  it  to  the 
lat  if  such  per- 
il received,  and 
in,  they  should 
ray  with  ihfixa.^ 


i 


In  an  instant,  as  if  instinct  with  one  spirit,  the  whole  con- 
gregation sunk  down  to  the  ground.  It  is  much,  but  not 
too  much,  to  say,  that  the  prayer  met  the  occasion. 
When  the  people  again  rose,  one  of  the  brethren  was 
about  to  address  them ;  but  I  thought  nothing  could  be 
so  salutary  to  them  as  their  own  reflections  and  prayers, 
and  I  ventuied  to  request  that  he  would  dismiss  the 
meeting. 

Thus  closed  the  most  remarkable  service  I  have  ever 
witnessed.  It  has  been  my  privilege  to  see  more  of  the 
solemn  and  powerful  effect  of  divine  truth  on  large  bodies 
of  people  than  many ;  but  I  never  saw  any  thing  equal 
to  this ;  so  deep,  so  overpowering,  so  universal.  And 
this  extraordinary  effect  was  produced  by  the  Divine 
blessing  on  the  ordinary  means ;  for  none  other  were 
used,  and  one  third  of  the  people  had  been  present  at 
none  other.  I  shall  never  forget  that  time — that  place  ; 
and  as  often  as  I  recur  to  it,  the  tear  is  still  ready 
to  start  from  its  retirement. 

The  immediate  effect  was  as  good  as  it  was  conspicu- 
ous. At  first  there  was  such  tenderness  on  the  people 
that  they  looked  silently  on  each  other,  and  could  hardly 
do  it  without  weeping ;  and  afterward,  when  they  had 
obtained  more  self-possession,  there  was  such  meekness, 
such  gentleness,  such  humility,  such  kindness,  such  a  de- 
sire to  serve  one  another  by  love,  and  such  calm  and 
holy  joy  sitting  on  their  countenances,  as  I  had  never 
seen  in  one  place,  and  by  so  many  persons.  It  realized, 
more  than  any  thing  I  had  known,  the  historical  descrip- 
tion of  the  primitive  saints ;  and  there  was  much  in  the 
present  circumstances  which  assisted  the  impression. 
It  was  indeed  beautifully  true — "  that  fear  came  on  every 
soul ;  and  all  that  believed  were  together,  and  had  all 
things  common;  and  they  continued  with  one  accord, 
breaking  bread  from  house  to  house ;  and  did  eat  their 
meat  with  gladness  and  singleness  of  heart,  praising 
God !" 

Besides  this  happy  effect  on  those  who  had  already  be- 
lieved, there  were  many  in  an  awakened  and  inquiring 

17* 


198 


DEACON    N0RRI9. 


m 


1 


»   I 


iUf 


I  ( 


state  which  demanded  attention.  Among  them  was  a  reii' 
resentative  of  the  State  Government,  who  acknowledged 
that  he  had  always  resisted  the  truth  till  then,  but  hoped 
it  had  overcome  him  at  last.  Some  of  these  cases,  of 
course,  came  under  my  own  knowledge ;  and  all  the 
ministers  showed  them,  as,  indeed,  they  had  uniformly 
done,  great  attention  and  solicitude. 

Among  other  expressions  of  kind  and  gentle  feeUng  to 
myself,  it  was  deemed  impossible  to  let  me  remain 
another  night  in  the  tents,  since  I  had  not  been  able  to 
procure  rest.  Many  were  eager  that  I  should  be  re- 
ceived at  their  dwelling;  but  in  the  end  I  engaged  to  go 
with  Deacon  Norris,  as  it  was  at  no  great  distance  from 
the  camp,  and  as  the  simple  piety  and  warm  heart  of  this 
aged  and  venerable  man  had  previously  won  my  con- 
fidence. 

I  had  agreed  to  go  after  the  evening  service ;  but  my 
considerate  friend  endeavoured  to  persuade  me  to  go  be- 
fore, by  representing  that  I  must  need  rest,  and  that  it 
would  not  be  so  safe  to  track  their  way  through  the  dark 
woods  after  sundown.  I  felt  that  it  would  be  less  suit- 
able to  his  age  to  be  exposed  so  late  and  in  the  dark,  and 
so  consented  to  do  as  he  should  suggest. 

So,  after  taking  repast,  and  joining  in  prayer  with  a 
cluster  of  our  friends  beneath  a  leafy  alcove  at  the  back 
of  one  of  the  tents,  we  started  for  Deacon  Norris's  resi- 
dence. His  lad  drove  me  in  a  chaise,  while  he  rode  be- 
side with  a  parent's  care,  to  see  that  all  was  done  well. 
He  exchanged  pleasant  words  with  me  as  occasion 
allowed,  and  ever  and  anon  was  giving  his  cautions  to  the 
driver : — "  Now,  boy,  mind  those  stumps — take  care  of 
those  roots — keep  a  tight  rein  here" — and  the  whole  w'as 
done  in  evident  and  unaffected  reference  to  me.  When 
we  alighted,  he  received  me  to  his  house  with  that  sim- 
plicity and  kindness  which  are  the  essence  of  all  true 
politeness.  He  took  my  hand,  and  with  a  beaming  face 
and  tearful  eye,  he  said,  "  Now,  sir,  this  is  your  home 
while  you  stay,  and  the  longer  you  stay  the  more  I  shall 
be  honoured.     A  plain  place,  but  all  of  it,  servants, 


DEACON   NORRIS. 


199 


them  was  a  rep* 
acknowledged 
hen,  but  hoped 
these  cases,  of 
i ;  and  all  the 
had  uniformly 

entle  feeling  to 
let  me  remain 
ot  been  able  to 
should  be  re- 
engaged to  go 
t  distance  from 
rm  heart  of  this 
'  won  my  con- 

3rvice ;  but  my 
le  me  to  go  be- 
:est,  and  that  it 
trough  the  dark 
Id  be  less  suit- 
in  the  dark,  and 

I  prayer  with  a 

^ve  at  the  back 

I  Norris's  resi- 

dle  he  rode  be- 

vas  done  well. 

B  as  occasion 

cautions  to  the 

—take  care  of 

the  whole  was 

o  me.     When 

with  that  sim- 

ice  of  all  true 

,  beaming  face 

is  your  home 

e  more  I  shall 

'  it,  servants, 


house,  garden,  is  yours.  Only  make  me  happy  by  letting 
me  know  what  you  want."  I  had  small  reply  to  offer. 
All  this  was  said  in  the  deep  and  wild  forest,  and  the 
manner  and  expression  would  not  have  dishonoured  St. 
James's;  it  affected  me  with  tenderness  and  surprise. 

While  this  occurred,  we  were  standing  on  the  verdant 
sod  which  surrounded  the  cottage,  and  was  not  worn  off 
even  by  the  passage  to  the  door.  The  day  had  been 
hot,  and  we  had  been  heated,  and  the  temptation  was  to 
enjoy  the  evening  breeze.  My  friend's  ^cottage  was  a 
frame-building,  whitened,  well  suited  to  the  occupant, 
and  to  the  spot  where  it  stood.  It  had  neither  bolt  nor 
lock  to  any  one  of  its  doors  that  I  could  find.  About 
100  yards  on  the  descent  stood  a  hut,  in  which  his  slaves 
were  accommodated,  and  the  interval  was  covered  with 
short  grass,  kept  cool  and  verdant  by  the  fine  separated 
trees  which  overshadowed  most  of  it.  On  the  other  side 
of  the  cottage  was  a  garden  abounding  in  fruits  for  the 
little  family.  The  ground  fell  off  very  pleasantly  trom 
the  spot  where  you  stood,  so  as  to  give  you  the  command 
of  the  scene,  and  to  compose  a  beautiful  prospect.  Most 
of  the  land  in  one  direction  was  the  domain  of  my  friend ; 
the  portion  near  you  being  adorned  with  Indian  corn,  and 
the  distant  parts  clothed  with  the  dark  and  solemn  pine. 

When  I  had  explored  the  garden  and  fields,  my  friend 
arranged  a  little  table  and  stools  at  the  door  of  the  cot- 
tage, and  before  the  best  part  of  the  prospect,  for  our  ac- 
commodation. Here  we  were  supplied  with  plates,  and 
a  fine  melon  from  the  garden  for  our  repast ;  and  it  was 
not  till  the  last  lingering  lights  of  a  glowing  day  had 
faded  away  behind  the  pine  barrens  that  we  ceased  to 
commune  with  Nature  and  with  each  other. 

In  this  communion  my  friend  was  the  chief  contribu- 
tor. He  spoke  in  the  fulness  of  his  heart ;  and  the  im- 
pression will,  I  trust,  long  remain  with  me.  He  told  me 
of  his  early  days,  of  his  conversion,  and  of  the  many 
years  he  had  been  as  a  pilgrim  and  a  stranger  on  the  earth. 
He  had  been  married  twice  ;  he  lost  his  last  wife  seven 
years  since  ;  and  his  children  were  settled  far  from  him 


200 


DEACON  NORRIS. 


;•■]: 


; .  r 


"  Many  expected,"  he  said,  "  as  I  was  living  alone,  that 
I  should  marry  again.  But  no,  sir  ;  at  my  time  of  life  I 
think  it  not  good.  The  husband  careth  for  the  things  of 
the  wife  ;  but  I  wish  now  to  care  for  the  things  of  the 
Lord.  My  great  concern  is,  that  I  may  do  the  will 
of  the  Lord,  and  look  to  my  latter  end  with  peace  and 
pleasure.  I  would  desire  to  die  and  to  be  with  Christ 
as  far  better ;  but  if  he  should  say.  Here,  I  have  a  little 
more  for  you  to  do  on  earth,  then  I  would  willingly  stay 
and  do  it. 

"  Then,"  he  continued,  after  musing,  "  I  am  old,  but  I 
suffer  nothing,  and  I  have  many  comforts,  and  I  thank  God 
I  can  enjoy  them.  But,"  with  a  serene  smile,  "  I  am 
looking  for  something  better ; — earth  will  not  do — this 
is  not  heaven  !  I  am  far  from  God  here  ;  and  I  have  sin 
always  with  me  here  to  distress  and  expose  me ;  but 
when  He  shall  appear,  I  shall  be  like  him,  for  I  shall 
see  him  as  he  is  !"  So  he  continued,  and  so  was  I  privi- 
leged and  refreshed. 

We  retired  within  the  cottage ;  the  slaves,  which  he 
treated  just  as  his  children,  were  called  in,  and  we  had 
family  worship.  I  pressed  him  to  engage  as  usual;  and 
was  richly  repaid.  It  was  prayer  winged  with  love  and 
thankfulness,  and  rising  to  heaven.  It  brought  us  closer 
to  each  other.  After  our  devotions,  rest  was  thought 
of ;  for  these  children  of  Nature  retire  and  rise  with  the 
day.  He  had  provided  for  my  accommodation  in  his 
own  room ;  and  when  every  thing  had  been  done  as  he 
directed,  he  went  to  see  with  his  own  eyes  that  all  was 
right.  He  attended  me  to  it,  and  again  inquired,  and 
looked  about  to  know  if  more  could  be  done  for  my 
comfort. 

He  had  not  been  long  out,  when  he  craved  permission  to 
come  in  again.  He  had  an  affectionate  manner,  and  said, 
"  Well,  now  there  is  still  one  thing  which  I  was  charged 
to  say  to  you,  and  which  I  must  say  to  you  before  I  can 
sleep." — «  What  is  that  ?"  I  inquired.  "  Why,"  he  said, 
"  I  have  been  now  in  the  v^ay  forty-seven  years — I  have 
seen  many  powerful  meetings  in  my  time— but  never  any 


, 

i? 

i 


DEACON  NURRIS.- 


201 


thing  like  this  morning — all,  ministers  and  all — weeping 
like  children — and — now  don't  say  no — and  we  all  want 
you  to  preach  again  to-morrow." — "  O,  my  good  friend," 
I  replied,  "  You  really  must  not  make  that  a  request.  I 
have  taken  my  leave,  and  I  have  lost  my  voice  by  cold, 
and  there  are  other  preachers  expecting — ."  He  drew 
nearer  to  me,  and  checking  me  as  he  would  his  son,  he 
said,  "  Well,  now,  my  child,  don't  say  you  will  not — 
and  we'll  trust  to  have  you  well  and  willing  by  to-morrow 
morning.  Is  there  any  thing  more  I  can  do  for  you  1" 
and  then  he  retired  and  drew  to  the  door. 

This  was  not  the  last  visit  that  evening  from  my  de- 
voted friend.  When  he  thought  me  composed  in  bed, 
the  door  gently  opened,  he  drew  together  a  window  which 
was  slightly  open,  and  which  he  thought  better  shut,  he 
crept  to  my  side,  and  thought  me  asleep ;  and  with  the 
affectionate  attentions  of  a  woman,  tucked  me  in,  and 
whispered  the  words,  "  Bless  him !"  as  he  left  me.  At 
least,  he  was  blessed  that  night  in  the  generous  and  holy 
sentiments  which  possessed  him. 

I  slept  peacefully  and  soundly  that  night,  till  I  was 
wakened  by  the  foot- tread  of  the  slave  who  waited  on 
me.  We  took  breakfast  early,  and  worshipped  together, 
and  then  went  to  the  camp-ground.  Here  the  subject  of 
preaching  was  renewed,  as  it  had  been  by  my  kind  host 
on  our  way.  But  as  Dr.  Rice  had  just  arrived,  and  was 
expected  to  preach,  I  was  strengthened  in  my  resolution 
to  remain  silent.  I  attended  the  service,  but  did  not 
again  occupy  the  stand.  I  felt  as  if  I  could  not  look  on 
that  people  for  the  last  time,  and  command  my  emotions. 
When  it  was  closed,  I  had  some  confidential  conversa- 
tions with  Mr.  Jeter.  As  the  hour  of  my  departure  pres- 
sed, I  took  hasty  refreshments ;  and  begged  to  meet 
with  the  brethren  in  a  final  act  of  prayer.  We  all  knelt 
— joined  in  one  prayer — in  one  spirit — a  prayer  often 
too  big  for  utterance,  but  always  apprehended  by  sympa- 
thy.    It  is  not  for  description. 

The  carriage  waited  for  us.  I  entered  it.  Still  we 
knew  not  how  to  go  on ;  and  the  friends  clustered  round 

13 


202 


REMARKS. 


^il 


.'^      I 


\li  ■ 


!{.  i 


it  as  though  they  would  provent  it.  There  were  many 
spectators  whom  I  did  not  know,  but  who  were  all  inter- 
ested. There  were  the  brethren  with  whom  I  had  had 
sweet  fellowship.  And  there,  nearest  of  all,  was  my 
freind,  Deacon  Norris,  true  to  the  last.  His  first  office 
was,  to  deposite  two  fine  melons  m  the  carriage ;  and 
his  next,  to  discharge  the  painful  one  of  saying  "Fare- 
well." He  took  my  hand  in  both  his  ;  looked  up  into 
my  face  with  sorrow — spoke  not  a  word — while  the  big 
tear  started  in  his  eye,  and  coursed  down  his  furrowed 
cheeks.  And  so  we  left  him — and  so  we  left  ihem — 
still  gazing  on  us  to  the  end.  For  myself,  I  left  the 
place  as  a  place  where  God  had  been ;  and  the  people, 
as  a  people  which  God  had  blessed  ! 


i 


i 


LETTER  XVIH. 

My  dear  Friend, 
The  interest  which,  I  doubt  not,  you  have  felt  in  the 
previous  account  of  the  meeting,  will  dispose  you  to  in- 
quire how  it  terminated.  I  am  happy  to  be  able,  by  a 
subsequent  communication,  to  satisfy  your  wishes.  My 
esteemed  friend,  Mr.  Jeter,  assures  me  that  the  serious- 
ness and  tenderness  of  the  people  remained  to  the  last ; 
and  disclosed  themselves  in  very  affecting  forms  on  part- 
ing. He  thus  writes : — "  On  Thursday  morning  our 
meeting  closed.  Eternity  alone  can  disclose  the  results. 
We  have  ascertained  that  between  sixty  and  seventy 
professed  conversion.  With  many  of  these  I  am  person- 
ally acquainted ;  and  I  have  every  reason  that  can  be 
furnished  to  regard  them  as  sincere  lovers  of  our  Sa- 
viour Jesus  Christ.  The  influence  of  the  meeting  on  the 
community  is  regarded  as  of  the  most  delightful  and  ele- 
vated kind.  Infidelity  has  been  compelled  to  shut  her 
mouth ;  and  vile  blasphemers  to  acknowledge  the  hand 
of  God !" 


'J 

of  1 

a  c: 

the] 

in  ( 

else 

desi 

F 

nour 

istin 

The 

mam 

sons 

riotoi 

tents 

ers  a 

posse 

The  ] 

or  till 

arate 

super 

the  w 

ces. 

the  s: 

such 

the  tei 

the  w 

many 

from 


I       ! 


REMARKS. 


203 


ere  were  many 
)  were  all  inter- 
vhom  I  had  had 
of  all,  was  my 

His  first  office 
3  carriage ;  and 

saying  "Fare- 
looked  up  into 
—while  the  big 
vn  his  furrowed 
we  left  them — 
lyself,  I  left  the 

and  the  people, 


1  have  felt  in  the 

ispose  you  to  in- 
to be  able,  by  a 

3ur  wishes.     My 
that  the  serious- 

lined  to  the  last ; 

ng  forms  on  part- 
ay   morning  our| 

close  the  results, 
xty  and  seventy  | 
ese  I  am  person- 
son  that  can  be  I 
)vers  of  our  Sa- 
le meeting  on  the  | 
elightful  and  ele- 
elled  to  shut  her  I 
wledge  the  hand 


Tiius,  then,  I  was  supplied,  at  once,  with  a  specimen 
of  the  three  great  religious  pecuharities  of  this  country ; 
a  camp-meeting,  a  protracted  meeting,  and  a  revival ;  for 
they  were  all  included  in  this  meeting.  Of  what  it  has 
in  common  with  other  special  meetings  I  shall  speak 
elsewhere ;  but  of  what  was  peculiar  to  it,  it  may  be 
desirable  to  ofTer  a  few  remarks. 

From  all  I  have  learned  of  camp-meetings,  I  may  pro- 
nounce this  to  have  been  very  well  conducted.  The  ex- 
isting arrangements  were  such  as  to  contribute  to  this. 
The  land  on  which  it  was  held  was  purchased  as  a  per- 
manent station ;  and  the  lands  around  were  held  by  per- 
sons friendly  to  the  object,  so  that  they  could  control 
riotous  and  intrusive  conduct,  if  it  should  appear.  The 
tents  remained  from  season  to  season,  and  cost  the  own- 
ers about  ten  dollars  each ;  and  if  it  happened  that  the 
possessor  could  not  attend,  he  lent  his  tent  to  a  friend. 
The  poorer  or  less  interested  persons  came  in  carriages, 
or  tilted  light  wagons,  which  they  used  as  beds.  Sep- 
1  arate  committees  were  appointed  to  preserve  order ;  to 
superintend  the  lights  and  fires ;  to  regulate  the  use  of 
the  water-springs ;  and  to  arrange  for  the  religious  servi- 
ces. For  the  last  purpose,  the  ministers  present  were 
the  standing  committee.  By  these  means,  and  means 
such  as  these,  strict  order  was  kept  on  the  premises  ;  and 
the  temptation  for  the  disorderly  was  cut  off.  I  saw  nothing 
the  whole  time  of  indecent  and  lewd  behaviour,  though 
many  persons  came  evidently  more  from  curiosity  than 
from  higher  motives.  With  the  single  exception  I  have 
named,  I  saw  not  an  intemperate  person ;  nor  did  I  see 
either  wine  or  spirits  on  the  ground.  There  was  a  man 
about  half  a  mile  distant,  who  had  made  a  venture  with  a 
couple  of  barrels  of  distilled  liquor;  but  it  must  have 
been  a  bad  speculation,  for  I  never  observed  a  single 
person  near  him. 

Spiritual  intemperance,  too,  which  is  often  a  far  greater 
evil  on  these  occasions,  was  kept  down  by  the  good  sense 
and  right  feeling  of  the  leading  ministers.  On  the  mer- 
its of  the  particular  methods  I  do  not  now  speak ;  but, 


304 


REMARKS. 


IH 


|i    1 


if  they  were  to  be  adopted,  I  know  not  that  tliey  could 
have  been  used  with  more  moderation  or  better  oflTect. 
That  the  anxious  seat  was  too  often  tried :  that  there 
was  a  disposition  sometimes  to  press  it  as  a  test ;  that 
the  act  of  passing  among  the  people  for  the  purpose  of 
personal  persuasion  had  better  have  been  avoided ;  and 
that  the  ministers  had  done  well  if  they  had  limited  the 
services,  and  especially  the  continued  singing,  by  which 
many  young  persons  were  doing  themselves  a  double 
mischief; — are  opinions  which  1  shall  appear  to  have 
adopted  in  the  preceding  statement,  and  opinions  which 
ought  to  be  expressed  to  make  it  impartial  and  discrimi- 
native. But  as  a  whole,  I  never  expect  to  nidet  vv!i< 
three  men  who  in  such  circumstances  are  mure  wisely 
disposed  to  pursue  the  good,  and  to  avoid  thu  incidental 
evil,  than  were  those  on  whom  rested  the  chief  responsi- 
bility of  the  meeting.  None  of  their  appeals  were  to 
blind  or  selfish  passion.  They  assailed  the  heart,  in- 
deed; but  it  was  always  through  the  understanding. 
They  rehed  not  on  manoeuvre  nor  on  sympathy  for  suc- 
cess ;  they  trusted  in  the  light  of  Truth,  clothed  by  the 
power  of  the  Spirit,  to  set  the  people  free,  that  they 
might  be  free  indeed  ! 

It  is  a  question  often  propounded  in  America,  as  well 
as  here, — Of  what  use  are  camp-meetings  ?     This  is  one 
of  those  questions  which  must  be  answered  in  submis- 
sion to  circumstances.     There  may  be  a  state  of  things 
in  which  I  should  consider  them  as  not  only  among  the 
things  useful,  but  the  things  necessary.     In  the  newly- 
settled  parts,  where  the  inhabitants  are  so  few,  and  are 
scattered  over  so  large  a  surface,  the  ordinary  means  of 
worship  and  instruction  can  for  a  time  hardly  be  enjoy- 
ed; and,  in  this  interval,  the  cair;.  niettin;^  seems  an  ex- 
cellent device  i'or  the  gatherinp"  uf  *n    f  fople.     ^^    'or 
such  circumstances,  the  very  fa  :    1  uib  i  being  brought 
together,  though  it  were  not  for  religious  purposes,  would 
be  a  decided  benefit ;  and  if  it  should  be  connected  with 
some  expressions  of  extravagance  which  we  could  not 
approve,  it  is  nevertheless  not  to  be  hastily  condemned. 


JOtRNBy. 


206 


hat  they  uould 
r  better  effect, 
ied:  that  there 
as  a  test ;  that 
the  purpose  of 
1  avoided ;  and 
had  limited  the 
iging,  by  which 
elves  a  double 
appear  to  have 
opinions  which 
il  and  discriuii- 
•t  to  meet  wu'i 
re  more  wisely 
[d  thu  incidental 
>  chief  responsi- 
ippeals  were  to 
d  the  heart,  in- 

understandiug. 
mpathy  for  suc- 
1,  clothed  by  the 

free,  that  they 


I 


imerica,  as  well    % 

s  1     This  is  one 

Bred  in  submis- 

i  state  of  things 

only  among  the 

In  the  newly- 

so  few,  and  are 

iinary  means  of 

lardly  be  enjoy- 

ijT  seems  an  ex- 

T  rople.     ^^   '"jr 

i-  being  brought 

purposes,  would 

connected  with 

;h  we  could  not 

itily  condemned. 


We  cannot  conceive  the  efTect  at'  l>eing  inunurftd  m  th« 
deep  and  solemn  forest,  month  after  ,,  luh,  with  littl«or 
no  intercourse  with  our  brethren,  nor  of  the  powerful 
movement  of  those  social  sympatliies  which  have  be«n 
long  pent  up  in  the  breast,  and  denied  exercise;.  But 
we  can  understand,  that  it  is  better  that  they  should  be 
culled  into  exercise  occasionally,  though  violently,  than 
\\\;'*  t'tey  should  be  allowed  to  pine  away  and  die  out; 
h.'.\i^9,  ui  the  one  case,  man  would  become  a  barbarous, 
l^loomy,  and  selfish  misanthrope ;  while,  in  the  other,  he 
vould  still  be  kept  among  social  beings,  and  would  be  in 
readiness  for  better  things. 

Much  more  than  this  is  done  where  the  sympathies  are 
wedded  to  rehgious  objects ;  and  the  good  effiscts  bear 
even  more  on  the  future  than  the  present.  Where  the 
camp-meeting  is  really  wanted  and  really  useful,  it  in- 
terests a  careless  people  in  their  own  moral  and  religious 
wants  ;  and  is  the  natural  and  general  forerunner,  an 
the  population  thickens,  of  the  school-house,  the  church, 
and  all  the  appliances  of  civil  life. 

You  will  now,  perhaps,  be  prepared  to  quit  the  forest, 
and  attend  me  on  my  journey.  A  missionary  student, 
who  was  about  to  go  to  the  Burmese  empire,  and  my 
original  friend,  Mr.  Jesse,  whose  kind  offices  had  been 
unremitted,  attended  me  to  the  boat:  the  former  with 
the  design  of  going  on  to  Baltimore.  We  were  just  in 
time,  and  parted  in  haste.  I  was  to  remain  in  this  con- 
veyance through  the  night,  and  most  of  the  next  day  ; 
but,  as  there  was  little  company,  and  good  accommoda- 
tions, we  were  exposed  to  no  inconvenience.  The  river 
now  expanded  into  grandeur,  and  the  lovely  scenes 
formed  by  the  fine  creeks  opening  into  land  are  still  pres- 
ent with  me,  though  I  must  not  detain  you  on  their  ac- 
count. Waking  or  sleeping,  however,  the  scenes  which 
chiefly  possessed  me  were  those  which  I  had  lately  wit- 
nessed. 

The  next  day  we  entered  the  Bay ;  and  still  new 
beauties  were  before  us.  It  is  among  the  finest  waters 
of  this  country.     The  weather  was  very  favourable ;  but 

18 


206 


BALTIMORE. 


I  r 


A^ 


m  it. 


the  temperature  continued  high.  It  ranged,  as  it  had 
done  for  the  last  week,  from  86°  to  90°.  As  we  passed 
onward,  we  took  in  several  passengers  who  were  making 
their  way  to  the  city  ;  and  they  supplied  seme  varieties 
of  character  and  manner.  As  I  sat  writing  at  a  small 
table,  part  of  a  melon  stood  before  me,  of  which  I  had 
been  partaking.  When  I  laid  the  knife  down,  a  young 
man,  of  genteel  but  assuming  appearance,  came  up,  and 
took  it  to  assist  himself.  Had  he  made  any  movement 
towards  me,  he  had  been  welcome ;  as  it  was,  I  remark- 
ed, that  the  melon  was  not  for  public  use  ;  and  he  laid 
the  knife  down  and  walked  away. 

Another  person,  of  rougher  aspect,  had  some  suspi- 
cions that  I  had  been  at  the  camp-ground ;  and  he  puz- 
zled himself  to  know  how  he  could  best  ascertain  this. 
He  came  nearer  and  nearer  to  me  by  degrees,  till  his 
confidence  brought  him  to  the  table.  There  were  two 
or  three  small  books  lying  on  it.  He  took  up  one.  It 
was  a  hymn-book  given  me  at  the  meeting,  and  the 
minister  who  gave  it  had  written  in  it  both  his  name  and 
mine.  This  he  thought  a  famous  clew  ;  and  he  began  his 
insnaring  guesses.  "  This  is  yours  1"  he  said.  "  Yes," 
was  the  answer.     "  A  present,  I  guess  1" — "  It  has  that 


appearance,"  I  said.     "  Then  you  know  Mr. 


and 


have  been  to  the  ground  V  Thus  awkwardly,  and,  as 
some  would  say,  rudely,  did  he  contrive  to  get  a  little 
chat  about  the  camp-meeting,  which,  in  this  region,  con- 
stituted the  principal  news  of  the  day.  He  was,  not- 
withstanding, a  well-meaning  and  religious  man. 

On  reaching  my  inn  at  Baltimore,  I  sat  down  at  the 
table  d'hote,  which  was  just  ready,  and  partook  of  an  ex- 
cellent dinner.  The  middle  of  the  day  was  very  hot, 
and  the  large  fans  which  I  have  before  noticed  were 
playing  over  your  head ;  and  the  company  were  sup- 
plied with  a  profusion  of  iced  milk,  and  iced  water,  and 
watermelon.  It  was  a  curious  spectacle  to  see  a  gen- 
tleman, after  dining  heartily — most  heartily — welcome 
half  a  melon  on  a  dish,  and  about  eighteen  inches  long, 
and  dispose  of  all  its  good  parts  before  your  surprise  was 
over. 


BALTIMORE. 


207 


iged,  as  it  had 
As  we  passed 
10  were  making 
seme  varieties 
ing  at  a  small 
)f  which  I  had 
down,  a  young 
I,  came  up,  and 
any  movement 
was,  I  remark- 
le  ;  and  he  laid 

id  some  suspi- 
d ;  and  he  puz- 
;  ascertain  this, 
legrees,  till  his 
?here  were  two 
lok  up  one.  It 
eeting,  and  the 
th  his  name  and 
ind  he  began  his 
J  said.  "  Yes," 
" — "  It  has  that 

Mr. ,  and 

Lwardly,  and,  as 
to  get  a  little 
his  region,  con- 
He  was,  not- 
us  man. 
I  at  down  at  the 
artook  of  an  ex- 
was  very  hot, 
noticed  were 
any  were  sup- 
iced  water,  and 
to  see  a  gen- 
irtily — welcome 
len  inches  long, 
our  surprise  was 


Baltimore  is  a  favourite  city  of  mine,  and  has  great 
advantages.  Its  noble  bay  I  have  noticed ;  it  has,  be- 
sides these  waters,  the  rivers  Patapsco,  Potomac,  and 
Susquehannah,  tributary  to  it.  It  has  also  a  run  of  rail- 
road of  300  miles,  connecting  it  with  the  Ohio ;  and  it  is 
the  most  central  of  all  the  first-rate  towns  to  the  Slates 
generally.  These  advantages  have  contributed  greatly 
to  its  advancement.  It  has  novir  a  population  of  80,000 
persons ;  and  is,  therefore,  the  second  city  in  the  Union. 

Like  Boston,  too,  it  stands  on  fine  inclinations  of  land, 
which  set  off  its  various  objects.  The  handsome  curve 
and  acclivity  in  the  main  street,  give  a  good  first  im- 
pression ;  and  the  more  private  dwellings  have  an  air  of 
wealth  and  comfort  on  them.  The  churches  cluster  and 
crown  the  higher  grounds  with  great  propriety ;  and  there 
is,  just  finished,  on  the  highest  portion  of  them,  a  monu- 
ment to  Washington,  which  might  grace  any  spot,  and 
become  the  best  of  all  that  is  good  in  this  city  picture. 
This  city  is  styled  the  Monumental  City,  but  somewhat 
proudly  and  ridiculously.  It  has,  I  think,  but  two  monu- 
ments at  present.  Of  one,  though  much  has  been  said 
of  it,  it  is  kind  to  observe  silence ;  the  other  will  bear 
any  praise  that  is  reasonable,  and  deserves  it.  It  is  a 
column  running  160  feel  from  the  ground  ;  having  abase 
fifty  feet  square,  and  a  pedestal  carrying  a  statue  of  the 
hero,  fifteen  feet  hi(?h.  It  is  built  of  white  marble  ;  the 
statue  is  by  Causici;  it  cost  10,000  dollars,  and  the 
whole  affair  not  less  than  200,000  dollars.  It  is  mostly 
a  copy  of  Trajan's  Pillar  ;  and,  as  a  handsome  column, 
is  greatly  superior  to  the  Duke  of  York's  in  Regent- 
street,  and  will  compare  with  Melville's  in  Edinburgh. 
Few  things  can  be  executed  in  better  taste. 

There  is  much  bustle  in  this  place,  directed  both  to  bus- 
iness and  amusement.  Here  were  balloons  about  to  as- 
cend, and  "Master  B.  was  to  accompany  Mister  D., by  the 
express  consent  of  his  parents."  Here  was  great  rivalry 
with  steamboats ;  and  one,  in  advertising  his  advantages 
to  his  passengers,  promised  to  take  them  "  free  of  dust 
and  DIRT."     Here  were  busy  auctions  ;  at  which  sharp 


208 


SLAVE  MART. 


Yankees  were  practising  on  the  softer  natures  of  the 
South.  Here  was  trumpeted  about,  as  the  lion  of  the 
time,  a  splendid  museum,  and  a  splendid  moral  picture 
of  Adam  and  Eve.  When  it  was  lighted  up  for  the 
night,  I  went  to  see  it.  The  museum  was  rather  a  show 
for  children  than  any  thing  more  ;  and  as  for  the  moral 
picture,  for  the  sake  of  the  morality  as  well  as  the  taste 
of  Baltimore,  I  can  only  hope  it  was  quickly  starved  out. 
But  there  is  another  view  of  this  subject,  and  it  sad- 
dens the  heart.  This  place  is,  like  Richmond,  a  con- 
siderable mart  for  slaves.  It  is  border  ground,  and 
therefore  desecrated  by  the  worst  circumstances  in  sla- 
very :  the  apprehension,  punishment,  and  sale.  I  met  in 
the  papers  at  my  hotel  with  the  following,  among  other 
notices  of  the  kind : — 


.! 

>,.t 
I    i 


"  One  Hundred  Dollars  Reward. 

"  Run  away  from  the  subscriber,  a  negro  man  named 
Abraham.  Black  complexion ;  5  ft.  10  in.  high,  straight, 
well  made,  likely  faced,  about  34  years.  Whoever  will 
lodge  the  said  fellow  in  Baltimore  jail,  shall  receive  60 
dollars,  and  all  reasonable  expenses. 

"  Thomas  Hillan.'* 

"  For  Sale. 

"  A  black  woman ;  38  years.  She  is  a  first-rate 
cook,  and  excellent  house  servant.  Strictly  honest, 
sober,  and  healthy.     Apply  to 

"  John  Busk." 

"  Cash  ! 

"  And  very  liberal  prices,  will  at  all  times  be  given  for 
Slaves. 

"  All  communications  will  be  promptly  attended  to,  if 
left  at  Sinner's  Hotel,  or  at  the  subscriber's  residence, 
Gallow's  Hill. 

"  The  house  is  white. 

«  J.  F.  Purvis  &  Co." 


i 


A    METHODIST    CHURCH. 


209 


aitures  of  the 
e  lion  of  the 
noral  picture 
d  up  for  the 
rather  a  show 
for  the  moral 
11  as  the  taste 
y  starved  out. 
;t,  and  it  sad- 
iinond,  a  con- 
ground,  and 
tances  in  sla- 
ale.     I  met  in 
,  among  other 


TO  man  named 

,  high,  straight, 

Whoever  will 

all  receive  60 

kS  HiLLAN.'* 


is  a  first-rate 
trictly  honest, 

TOHN  BvsK." 


es  be  given  for    ^ 

attended  to,  if 
er's  residence, 


RVIS  &  Co." 


What  an  apposition  between  deeds  and  names  in  this 
instance.  "  The  house  is  white ;"  alas,  that  it  should  be 
the  only  white  thing  in  the  business  ! 

When  returning  from  an  excursion  in  the  town  and 
some  needful  calls,  I  found  a  church  open  and  lighted. 
I  desired  to  close  the  day  in  a  quiet  act  of  worship,  and 
went  in.  My  wishes  were  but  poorly  gratified ;  but  the 
service  was  somewhat  remarkauie,  and  even  more  amu- 
sing than  I  desired.  It  was  a  Methodist  Church,  of  full 
size  and  commodious.  There  were  not  100  persons 
present ;  and  the  preacher,  in  both  exercises,  was  feoble 
and  noisy,  with  good  intentions.  I  was  surprised  to  find 
more  of  the  peculiarities  of  this  people  here,  in  the  Monu- 
mental City,  than  are  sometimes  to  be  found  in  a  seques- 
tered village.  There  were  not  only  interruptions  and 
exclamations  in  prayer,  but  in  singing  and  in  the  sermon 
also.  With  many,  it  was  a  sort  of  chorus  taken  to- 
gether ;  but  there  was  one  reverend  old  man,  certainly  a 
leader  among  them,  who  spurned  association,  and  literally 
kept  up  a  sort  of  recitative  with  the  preacher.  The  fol- 
lowing is  an  instance,  which  I  could  not  help  preserving 
that  night. 

Having  passed  through  the  explanatory  portion  of  his 
discourse,  the  preacher  paused,  and  then  said : — 

Preacher.  "  The  duty  here  inferred  is,  to  deny  our- 
selves." 

Elder.  "  God  enable  us  to  do  it !" 

Preacher.  "  It  supposes  that  the  carnal  mind  is  en- 
mity against  God." 

Elder.  "  Ah,  indeed.  Lord,  it  is  !" 

Preacher.  "  The  very  reverse  of  what  God  would  have 
us  be !" 

Elder.  "  God  Almighty  knows  it's  true  !" 

Preacher.  "  How  necessary,  then,  that  God  should  call 
on  us  to  renounce  every  thing !" 

Elder.  "  God  help  us  !" 

Preacher.  "  Is  it  necessary  for  me  to  say  more  1" 

Elder.  «  No,  oh  no !" 

18» 


3     t 

r  i. 


■  r 


210 


ii 


PHILADELPHIA. 


Have  I  not  said  enough  V 


yes — quite  enou{ 
I  rejoice  that  G( 


Preacher.  •* 

Elder.  "01 

Preacher.  *' 
every  thing!" 

Elder  (clasping  his  hands).  "  Yes,  Lord,  I  would  let 
it  all  go !" 

Preacher.  "  You  must  give  up  all." 

Elder.  "Yes,— all!" 

Preacher.  "  Your  pride !" 

Elder.  "  My  pride  !" 

Preacher.  "  Your  envy  !" 

Elder.  "  My  envy !" 

Preacher.  "  Your  covetousness  !" 

Elder.  "  My  covetousness  !" 

Preacher.  "  Your  anger !" 

Elder.  "  Yes,  my  anger !" 

Preacher.  "  Sinner,  how   awful,  then,   is  your  con- 
dition !" 

Elder.  "  How  awful !" 

Preacher.  "  What   reason  for  all  to   examine  them- 
selves !" 

Elder.  "  Lord,  help  us  to  search  our  hearts  !" 

Preacher.  "  Could  you  have  more  motives  1 — I  have 
done !" 

Elder.  "  Thank  God  !   Thank  God  for  his  holy  Word. 
Amen !" 


: 


i 


LETTER  :nx. 


Mv  DEAR  Friend, 

On  the  next  morning  early  I  left  for  Philadelphia.     I 

found  a  gentleman  on  board  who  had  crossed  the  Atlantic 

with  us;  and  had  pleasant  conversation  with  him.     I 

noticed  to  him  the  heavy  fog  which  hung  over  the  town 


me  to  give  up 
trd,  I  would  let 


,  18  your  con- 


examine  them- 

earts !" 

tives  1 — I  have 

his  holy  Word. 


hiladelphia.  I 
sed  the  Atlantic 
.  with  him.  I 
over  the  town 


H 

I 


PRINCETON. 


811 


and  the  waters.  He  remarked  that  it  was  somewhat 
common  at  this  period  of  the  year ;  and  that  the  banks 
of  the  river,  though  very  beautiful  and  inviting  for  a  res- 
idence, were  unhealthy  and  dangerous. 

There  was  strong  opposition  on  these  waters  between 
the  steamboats ;  and  we  made  a  rapid  and  pleasant  run 
to  Philadelphia.  Here  I  naturally  sought  for  Dr.  Ely ; 
his  family  were  residing  in  the  country,  but  I  happened 
to  find  him  in  town.  Through  him,  too,  I  met  with  Mr. 
Matheson,  who  had  returned  from  Pennsylvania,  and  was 
seeking  me.  He  had  been  on  to  New-York,  and  brought 
me  packets  of  letters,  ■  which  had  been  long  due ;  and 
which  were  like  water  to  the  thirsty  ground.  I  had  not 
received  a  foreign  letter  since  the  day  I  left  Buffalo  ;  and 
this  was  really  to  be  placed  among  my  greatest  privations. 

On  the  following  morning  we  went  on  to  Princeton, 
that  we  might  spend  the  Sabbath  there.  We  were  to 
have  been  received  at  Judge  Byard's ;  but  found  sick- 
ness in  his  family.  Dr.  Rice,  who  also  expected  us, 
gave  us  a  cordial  welcome.  We  felt  the  more  at  home, 
as  we  had  known  each  other  through  his  brother,  who 
was  my  friend  and  correspondent.  It  was  no  sooner 
known  that  we  had  arrived,  than  Professors  Alexander, 
Miller,  and  Dodd,  with  other  frieiids,  very  obligingly  called 
on  us  ;  and  throughout  our  short  stay,  showed  us  the 
kindest  attentions. 

On  the  morning  of  the  Sabbath  I  worshipped  at  the 
Theological  Institution,  and  Mr.  Matheson  preached  for 
Dr.  Rice.  I  understood  that  Dr.  Alexander  was  to  preach 
to  the  students  ;  he  is  much  esteemed  as  a  preacher,  and 
I  was  desirous  of  hearing  him.  The  service  was  in  the 
lecture-room ;  there  were  from  eighty  to  one  hundred 
young  men  present.  It  was  an  interesting  occasion.  I 
was  glad  to  worship  with  a  body  of  pious  youth,  who 
were  devoted  to  the  ministration  of  the  word  of  life  ;  and 
to  have  that  worship  led  by  so  good  and  competent  a  man 
as  their  revered  tutor. 

I  had  declined  preaching  in  the  morning,  on  condition 
of  occupying  the  pulpit  in  Dr.  Rice's  church  at  night.    In 


212 


JERSEY. 


\i 


■^  I 


the  evening,  therefore,  I  walked  abroad  in  the  fields  to 
meditate.  In  my  way  I  passed  by  a  number  of  cottages, 
tenanted  by  coloured  people.  The  doors  and  windows 
were  all  open.  In  one  of  them,  the  father,  with  his  wife 
and  children  sitting  around  him,  was  reading  with  broken 
utterance,  as  if  learning  to  read,  by  reading.  I  was  de- 
sirous of  ascertaining  what  he  was  reading ;  and,  as  I 
passed  slowly  along,  I  heard  him  utter  the  words — *'  Show 
us  the  Father,  and  it  sufficeth  us."  I  scarcely  know  how 
it  was,  but  the  words  from  those  lips  were  very  touching. 
The  old  man  seemed  like  the  representative  of  his  op- 
pressed race,  craving,  in  the  midst  of  their  wrongs,  only 
one  thing,  and  that  the  noblest.  My  thoughts  glanced 
spontaneously  to  Him  who  is  the  common  Father  of  us 
all ;  and  I  could  not  suppress  the  desire,  that  whatever 
else  was  denied,  he  might  have  the  blessedness  of  that 
relationship. 

Jersey  is  a  free  State,  and  of  course  the  coloured  peo- 
ple who  dwell  here  are  free,  or  in  course  of  freedom. 
Much  is  said  everywhere  about  the  superior  state  of  the 
slaves  in  habit,  character,  and  comfort,  over  these  eman- 
cipated people.  Certainly,  so  far  as  the  instance  before 
me  is  concerned,  the  position  must  be  reversed  ;  for  these 
people  appear  better,  dress  better,  have  better  dweUings, 
and  bring  about  themselves  more  of  the  comforts  of  life. 

I  closed  my  walk  as  the  evening  shut  in,  and  hastened 
to  the  church.  It  was  very  full ;  and  the  galleries  were 
occupied  entirely  by  collegians  and  youth.  It  was  a 
serious,  and  I  would  hope  a  profitable  service.  The  heat 
was  to  me  very  oppressive  heie ;  but  chiefly  I  was  an- 
noyed by  a  large  field-bug,  somewhat  like  our  hearth 
beetle.  Its  tameness  made  it  very  troublesome  and  most 
unpleasant.  It  got  into  your  hair,  your  cravat,  and  your 
bosom,  and  there  it  might  be  crushed,  for  it  was  insensi- 
ble to  resistance. 

Princeton  is  situated  in  a  pleasant  part  of  New- Jersey ; 
and  is  both  rural  and  collegiate  in  its  appearance.  It  is 
rural,  from  the  cottage  style  of  the  houses,  and  the  rbun- 
dance  of  trees  in  the  streets  and  elsewhere  ;  and  it  is 


v»> 


EXAMINATION. 


213 


I  the  fields  to 
er  of  cottages, 

and  windows 
,  with  his  wife 
ig  with  broken 
ig.  I  was  de- 
,ng ;  and,  as  I 
irords — "Show 
:cely  know  how 

very  touching, 
ive  of  his  op- 
ir  wrongs,  only 
oughts  glanced 
n  Father  of  us 
,  that  whatever 
sedness  of  that 

le  coloured  peo- 
se  of  freedom. 
:ior  state  of  the 
rer  these  eman- 
instance  before 
srsed  ;  for  these 
etter  dwelhngs, 
omforts  of  life, 
n,  and  hastened 
galleries  were 
It  was   a 
rice.     The  heat 
liefly  I  was  an- 
ike  our  hearth 
some  and  most 
ravat,  and  your 
it  was  insensi- 

)f  New- Jersey ; 
learance.  It  is 
and  the  cbun- 
lere  ;  and  it  is 


collegiate,  from  the  predominance  of  the  colleges  over 
the  other  erections.  The  me  ii;s  of  religion  are  here 
abundant,  as  compared  with  the  population.  Dr.  Rice^s 
church  has  about  350  in  communion,  and  about  600  in 
usual  attendance.  There  is  worship  at  both  tne  colleges, 
and  a  place  for  the  coloured  population ;  and  besides 
these  accommodations,  there  are  now  erecting  an  Epis- 
copal Church,  and  a  chapel  attached  to  the  Theological 
Institution  ;  both  of  them  handsome  structures. 

As  the  Monday  was  the  only  clear  day  at  this  inter* 
esting  point  of  observation,  it  was  a  very  busy  one.  Dr. 
Rice  and  Professor  Dodd  introduced  us  early  to  the  col- 
lege. The  examinations,  previous  to  the  commence- 
ment, were  coming  on.  We  attended  one  at  nine  o'clock. 
It  was  of  the  first  class,  and  by  the  President.  The 
subject  was,  the  evidence  of  revealed  religion.  The 
names  of  the  students  were  written  in  folded  slips  ;  and 
the  President  drew  from  these  promiscuously,  and  called 
on  the  party  inscribed  to  rise  and  answer.  The  ques- 
tions were,  certainly,  commonplace,  and  should  have 
created  little  difficulty ;  but  most  of  the  replies  were 
feeble  and  irresolute,  and  some  of  them  far  astray.  Those 
who  were  least  prepared  were  chiefly  youths  who  dreamed 
of  independence,  and  who  were  rather  constrained  by 
their  connexions  to  seek  an  education  suited  to  their 
place  in  society,  while  they  were  themselves  indifferent. 
The  students  were  mostly,  he  /ever,  the  sons  of  success- 
ful tradesmen,  who,  missing  education  themselves,  de- 
sired it  for  their  children;  and  their  children  generally 
were  animated  by  similar  desire,  for  they  look  on  educa- 
tion as  the  door  to  advancement.  I  was  struck  with  the 
ages  of  the  young  men  in  this  class ;  they  were  generally 
above  twenty -five  years  of  age. 

We  afterward  attended  a  recitation  in  Professor  Dodd's 
class.  The  subject  was  Mechanics,  and  this  exercise 
was  limited  to  the  Pulley.  The  professor  had  a  list  of 
the  class  before  him,  and  the  persons  called  out  were  in 
this  instance  selected.  They  were  very  well  prepared, 
and  made  their  replies  and  wrought  their  diagrams  with 


214 


THEOLOGICAL   INSTITUTION. 


ease  and  skill.  It  closed  by  an  announcement  of  the 
next  subject,  which  was  the  Lever.  There  was  an  in- 
teresting young  Scotchman  in  this  class  pointed  out  to  us, 
as  possessii^g  extraordinary  powers  as  a  linguist. 

We  inspected  the  establishment.  There  is  nothing 
special  to  remark,  except  that  Professor  Henry  promises 
to  do  much  honour  to  the  department  of  chymistry.  He 
has  constructed  a  magnet  of  great  capacity,  which  has 
raised  a  weight  of  3,500  lbs.  The  Ubrary  is  consider- 
able and  good.  We  saw  here  a  set  of  the  works  which 
had  been  recently  sent  by  our  government  to  this  and 
most  of  the  colleges  in  this  country.  They  are  rare  and 
expensive  books,  and  a  worthy  expression  of  national  re- 
gard. It  is  surprising  and  delightful  to  observe,  how 
much  this  wise  and  benevolent  movement  on  the  part  of 
our  country,  has  conciliated  and  interested  the  men  of 
letters  here.  Surely  England  is  never  fulfilling  her  high 
destination  so  faithiuUy  and  so  fully,  as  when  she  is  seek- 
ing to  advance  among  the  young  or  savage  nations  of  the 
earth  the  interests  of  science,  which  are,  in  fact,  the  in- 
terests of  humanity  and  of  the  world.  It  is  thus,  rather 
than  by  success  in  arms  or  extent  of  domination,  that  she 
may  win  for  herself  a  more  hallowed  name  than  Greece 
or  Rome  ever  knew,  among  those  new  worlds  of  life  and 
civilization  which  are  springing  up  in  the  West,  the 
South,  and  the  East. 

Our  attention  was  next  engaged  by  the  Theological 
Institution.  It  is  entirely  distinct  from  the  college.  It 
requires  but  little  observation,  except  what  may  fall  under 
a  more  generic  name  afterward.  It  accommodates  about 
110  students  ;  it  is  full ;  and  the  students  are  considered 
to  be  the  subjects  of  true  piety.  Its  provisions  for  their 
comfort  are  respectable.  The  library  is  small ;  but  as  a 
theological  school,  it  is  in  good  repute. 

The  burial-ground  is  an  object  of  attraction  here.  It 
would  be  so,  if  for  no  other  reason  than  that  it  contained 
the  remains  of  President  Edwards,  Davies,  &c. 

We  dined  this  day  at  Judge  Byard's.  This  worthy 
gentleman  has  passed  some  time  in  England  as  a  Com- 


NEW-BRUNSWICK. 


215 


inissioner  from  the  American  Government ;  and  he  had 
strong  partiahty  for  the  English.  I  met  here  again  with 
Drs.  Miller  and  Alexander,  and  continued  some  profita- 
ble conversations  on  the  state  of  religion. 

The  evening  was  spent  at  Professor  Dodd's,  and  in 
the  society,  I  believe,  of  all  the  professors  of  the  two 
institutions,  and  some  of  their  ladies.  It  was  a  delight- 
ful party ;  such  as  one  does  not  meet  in  the  common 
walks  of  life.  It  was  refined,  without  being  ceremoni- 
ous ;  affectionate,  without  obtrusiveness ;  and  well-in- 
formed, without  pedantry.  Good  taste  prevailed  in  our 
accommodations  and  repast;  and  the  conversations, 
while  they  were  free  as  air,  were  rational,  intelligent,  and 
elevated.  Before  we  separated,  we  all  united  in  an 
exercise  of  social  worship,  which  was  such  as  most  of 
us  will,  I  dare  say,  long  remember. 

The  next  day  we  parted  from  our  friends,  and  from 
Princeton,  with  great  regrets  that  we  could  not  stay 
longer.  Nowhere  had  we  met  with  more  unaffected 
kindness ;  and  it  was  increased  by  the  eminence  of  the 
persons  who  expressed  it. 

The  heat  continued  very  great ;  and  on  our  way  to 
New-Brunswick  one  of  the  horses  in  our  stage  sunk 
down,  and  died  in  the  road.  This  delayed  us  so  long, 
that  we  were  too  late  for  the  boat  which  was  to  take  us 
forward  ;  and  after  making  some  efforts  in  vain,  we  were 
compelled  to  remain.  It  is  a  thriving,  smart,  clean, 
Dutch-looking  town,  with  a  good  location  on  the  water- 
side. There  is  near  to  it  the  college  belonging  to  the 
Dutch  Church ;  and  to  improve  the  evening,  which  was 
closing  fast  upon  us,  I  proposed  to  go  and  inspect  it.  It 
was,  however,  dark  before  we  arrived,  the  professors  we 
sought  were  away,  and  we  could  not  intrude  at  such  an 
hour  on  strangers,  to  whom  we  had  no  introduction. 
The  information  we  obtained  was  derived  from  a  gentle- 
man who  had  also  come  to  the  college,  but  for  a  differ- 
ent purpose.  He  was  about  to  attend  a  lecture  on 
chymistry.  It  was  one  of  a  short  popular  course  given 
by   a  professor  to  the  public ;  and  it  was    manifestly 


216 


JOURNEY    TO   NEW-YORK. 


'  I 


under  the  patronage  of  this  gentleman,  himself  a  scientific 
man.  He  invited  our  attendance,  and  we  gave  a  cheer- 
ful compliance.  The  lecture  was  well  prepared  and 
illustrated,  but  the  apparatus  was  poor,  and  indicated 
that  this  was  a  young  experiment.  There  were  from 
twenty  to  thirty  young  persons  present,  and  there  might 
have  been  more  had  not  the  evening  put  on  a  threatening 
aspect.  Our  strrnger- friend  still  continued  his  atten- 
tions on  our  return  ;  we  became  revealed  to  each  other ; 
he  pressed  us  to  pass  the  night  under  his  hospitable 
roof,  and  with  such  evident  cordiality,  as  to  make  us 
as  greatly  his  debtors  as  though  we  had  done  so. 

On  the  following  morning  we  made  a  short  and  pleas- 
ant sail  to  New- York ;  and  had  the  President  of  the 
college,  Mr.  Milledoler,  for  a  companion.  New- York, 
though  so  well  known,  struck  me  with  surprise.  The 
Broadway,  which  was  accustomed  to  be  so  full  of  move- 
ment, looked  comparatively  like  a  desert.  The  cholera 
had  been  in  it,  and  all  who  could  fly  from  the  pestilence 
did.  The  disease  was  still  here,  and  from  twenty  to 
twenty-four  cases  a  day  were  reported.  Elsewhere  it 
had  been  raging  violentlv.  At  Cincinnati,  from  80  to 
100  a  week  died ;  at  Montreal,  241  perished  in  the 
week ;  and  at  Detroit^  the  population,  by  flight  and 
disease,  had  been  reduced  from  5,000  to  2.000. 

I  was  making  New- York  only  a  place  of  passage,  and 
its  present  state  did  not  incline  one  needlessly  to  linger 
on  the  way.  We  found  that  our  friend,  Mr.  Phelps,  was 
going  with  part  of  his  family  to  Saratoga  the  next  day, 
and  we  determined  to  attend  him  thither.  We  made 
needful  calls,  to  ascertain  the  safety  of  friends,  or  to 
dispose  of  impending  business,  tha^  we  might  be  ready 
to  fulfil  our  purpose. 

Early  the  next  morning  we  were  on  our  way  to 
Albany,  and  many  things  contributed  to  give  exhilaration 
to  the  journey.  We  were  in  good  company ;  we  were 
leaving  an  infected  and  deserted  town ;  we  were  about 
to  run  up  one  of  the  finest  American  rivers  in  one  of  the 
finest  boats  ;  and,  forgive  the  collocation,  we  were  to  do 


f 


K. 

uself  a  scientiiic 
i^e  gave  a  cheer* 
11  prepared  and 
r,  and  indicated 
'here  were  from 
and  there  might 
on  a  threatening 
inued  his  atten- 
d  to  each  other ; 
ir  his  hospitable 
,  as  to  make  us 
i  done  so. 
short  and  pleas- 
President  of  the 
on.     New- York, 
I.  surprise.     The 
I  ao  full  of  move- 
rt.     The  cholera 
>m  the  pestilence 
I  from  twenty  to 
i.     Elsewhere  it 
mati,  from  80  to 
perished  in  the 
I,   by  flight  and 
|o  2;000. 
of  passage,  and 
dlessly  to  Unger 
dr.  Phelps,  was 
ja  the  next  day, 
ler.     We  made 
jf  friends,  or  to 
might  be  ready 

on  our  way  to 
^ive  exhilaration 
ipany ;  we  were 
we  were  about 
rs  in  one  of  the 
,  we  were  to  do 


THE    HUDSON. 


217 


this  at  a  cost  of  lidy  cents — that  is,  a  distance  of  one 
hundred  and  forty-five  miles  for  half  a  crown  ! 

I  have  more  than  once  noticed  the  Hudson  to  you ; 
but  I  have  not  described  it ;  nor  is  it  my  purpose  now. 
You  must  be  already  familiar  with  its  principal  features, 
by  the  repeated  descriptions  of  all  the  travellers.  Not 
that  I  am  quite  satisfied  that  the  thing  should  rest  on 
your  imagination  just  as  they  have  reported  it ;  for  some 
are  extravagant,  and  use  marvellous  expressions  here,  as 
they  would  anywhere  when  it  is  the  fashion  to  praise  ; 
others  are  incorrect,  and  report  to  you  the  things  as  they 
are  not ;  while  others  seek  safety  in  generalities,  and  say 
only  what  would  be  true  of  any  river  that  had  amplitude 
in  itself,  and  hills  around  it.  But  after  having  received 
these  impressions,  it  would  require,  in  attempting  to  con- 
vey one's  own,  that  you  should  be  presented  with  various 
sketches,  from  different  points  of  sight,  and  of  great  in- 
dividuality. The  river  is  worth  all  this,  and  more  ;  but 
opportunity  does  not  serve  me. 

The  palisades  are  beautiful,  but  they  have  been  over- 
done. The  fine  expanding  waters  above  them  are 
chiefly  beautiful  by  the  abundance  of  small  craft  which 
are  perpetually  moving  over  them ;  and  with  their  white 
sails,  give  life,  and  picture,  and  perspective  to  the  scene. 
The  excelling  beauty  of  the  river,  however,  is  found  in 
the  narrows,  and  is  limited  to  a  confined  space.  Here 
the  Hudson,  denied  surface,  demands  depth,  and  flows 
on  a  stronger  and  darker  stream,  winding  its  way  reso- 
lutely through  the  rocks  and  hills,  and  reminding  you  of 
the  day  when  it  first  cut  its  passage  through  them. 
The  cleft  hills  rise  on  either  side  and  all  around  you,  in 
forms  so  decided,  so  beautiful,  and  so  varied,  as  to  leave 
you  nothing  to  desire.  The  sky  was  more  propitious  to 
the  picture  than  I  had  before  seen  it.  Some  dewy  and 
dark  clouds  were  passing  about,  so  as  to  give  a  magni- 
tude and  mysteriousness  to  the  hills,  which  they  mostly 
want  here ;  while  the  sun  was  gleaming  through  them 
and  over  them  with  a  radiance  exquisite  and  divine. 

After  this,  there  was  nothing  very  remarkable  till  we 

Vol.  I.— K  19 


218 


SARATOGA. 


'  ! 


came  within  sight  of  Albany  ;  and  it  was  made  so  by 
the  state  of  the  elements  above  it.  The  clouds,  which 
for  some  time  had  been  unsettled,  now  collected  them- 
selves behind  it.  They  were  as  black  and  threatening 
as  thunder-clouds  can  be,  even  in  this  country.  On  this 
ebony  background  arose  the  whole  town ;  and  its  towers, 
spires,  turrets,  and  domes,  looked  like  the  fairest  marble, 
and  made  you  regard  it,  by  the  prominence  it  gave  them, 
as  a  city  of  obelisks  and  temples.  In  the  distant  fore- 
ground, the  spreading  foliage  of  trees  screened  the 
skirts  of  the  town ;  and  immediately  before  you  lay  the 
dark  waters,  reflecting  the  darker  forms  of  the  lowering 
clouds. 

The  storm  which  threatened  us  came  on  before  we 
could  get  to  land ;  and  we  were  glad  by  any  means  to 
hasten  to  any  accommodation  that  might  be  available. 
The  town  was  full,  and  we  had  difficulty  in  procuring 
even  the  plainest  kind.  It  mattered  little,  however,  as 
in  the  m'^rning  we  proceeded  to  the  springs.  A  rail- 
road has  recently  been  laid  down ;  and  though  it  is 
inferior  to  many,  it  enables  you  to  get  over  the  distance 
in  a  short  time. 

Saratoga  is  the  most  fashionable  watering-place  in  the 
States.  Like  most  of  their  watering-places,  it  is  inland. 
The  people  here  all  run  from  the  sea  in  the  summer ; 
while  with  us  they  are  all  ready  to  run  into  it.  The  sea- 
coast,  and  the  river  sides,  at  this  season,  are  deemed  un- 
wholesome. The  town  is  composed  rather  of  several 
enormous  inns  than  of  streets  and  houses.  The  princi- 
pal are,  the  Congress,  the  Pavilion,  the  Union,  and  the 
United  States.  From  their  size,  and  from  the  large  por- 
ticoes which  run  in  their  front,  ornamented  by  flowering 
shrubs,  they  have  a  good  and  imposing  appearance. 
They  will  accommodate  from  200  to  300  persons ;  and 
at  this  time  there  were  upwards  of  2,000  visiters.  The 
refectories  and  the  withdrawing-rooms,  as  they  gather 
all  the  occupants  together  at  certain  times,  have  an  ani- 
mated and  striking  effect.  Our  waiter  observed  to  me, 
with  great  complacency,  of  the  dining-room,  that  it  was 


IIELIOIOUS    HOTEL. 


219 


i8  made  so  by 
clouds,  which 
;oUocted  them- 
ind  threatening 
intry.  On  this 
andi  its  towers, 
fairest  marble, 
:e  it  gave  them, 
;he  distant  fore- 
I  screened  the 
ore  you  lay  the 
of  the  lowering 

,e  on  before  we 
)y  any  means  to 
lit  be  available, 
ilty  in  procuring 
tie,  however,  as 
prings.  A  rail- 
nd  though  it  is 
iver  the  distance 

ring-place  in  the 
,ces,  it  is  inland, 
in  the  summer ; 
ito  it.  The  sea- 
are  deemed  un- 
■ather  of  several 
Bs.     The  princi- 

Union,  and  the 
»m  the  large  por- 
ted by  flowering 
ing  appearance. 
00  persons ;  and 

visiters.     The 

as  they  gather 
les,  have  an  ani- 

observed  to  mCt 
room,  that  it  was 


the  largest  room  in  the  States.     I  admired  his  modesty, 
that  he  did  not  say — in  the  world. 

Altogether,  t  iiuugh  the  place  is  the  centre  of  transat- 
lantic fashion,  it  has  the  air  of  having  been  just  redeemed 
from  the  forest.  The  main  avenue,  or  street,  is  just  a 
clearance  from  the  woods,  with  its  centre  cut  up  by  the 
carriages,  and  filled  with  the  native  dust  and  sand,  and 
the  margins  are  overrun  with  grass ;  and  the  PaviUon, 
which  was  completing,  is  at  present  enveloped  in  the 
original  and  verdant  spruce  pine.  The  attractions  of 
the  place  must  depend  chiefly  on  the  repute  of  its  waters, 
and  the  fashion  of  its  society  ;  for  I  have  seen  no  resort 
m  this  country  so  poor  in  natural  beauties.  The  town 
stands  on  a  flat,  and  has  nothing  to  relieve  it,  except,  in 
one  direction,  the  mountains  of  Vermont  appearing  in 
the  distance.  I  do  not  forget  Lake  George  ;  but  Lake 
George  is  away  a  day^s  journey. 

Of  course  we  took  the  waters ;  and  in  doing  so  saw 
the  company,  and  met  with  many  friends.  There  are 
several  springs,  which  vary  a  little  in  quality,  but  have 
the  same  bases.  The  waters  are  taken  in  large  quanti- 
ties ;  and,  on  this  account,  I  should  think,  must  do  harm 
to  many  persons.  They  are,  however,  not  disagreeable, 
and  have  undoubtedly  excellent  properties. 

The  chief  amusements  of  the  place  are,  a  visit  to 
Lake  George ;  fishing  at  Ballston ;  a  drive  out  and  in 
again ;  and  an  occasional  ball,  got  up  at  one  hotel,  by  a 
subscription  made  at  all.  The  only  sight  was  a  Pano- 
rama of  Geneva,  which  I  had  seen  in  London,  and  was 
glad  to  sec  again,  that  I  might  be  transported  to  Europe 
and  Leicester-square.  There  is  certainly  gambling  going 
on  here ;  but,  if  seen,  it  must  be  sought  for.  On  the 
contrary,  there  is  one  hotel,  and  that  first-rate,  which  has 
the  denomination  of  the  Religious  Hotel.  Its  name 
preserves  its  character ;  th'e  religious  are  attracted  by  it ; 
and  as  clergymen  are  usually  staying  here,  domestic 
worship  is  observed,  and  not  only  most  of  the  occupants, 
but  many  from  the  other  inns,  attend.  It  is  also  worthy 
of  remark,  that  in  this  place,  so  lately  risen  from  the 

K3 


220 


ALBANY. 


t' 


I       1 


forest,  and  raised  for  purposes  of  fashion,  and  having  so 
very  small  a  resident  population,  there  is  an  adequate 
supply  of  churches,  even  when  the  company  is  largest. 

Our  afTectionate  friends  had  urged  me  to  pass  some 
days  here  as  favourable  to  my  health,  and  I  came  on 
with  the  intention  of  doing  so.  But  on  an  exact  com- 
parison of  what  I  felt  it  desirable  to  do,  and  of  the  time 
within  which  it  must  be  done,  I  was  obliged  to  abandon 
the  idea.  The  next  day,  therefore,  we  left,  to  fulfil  some 
engagements  in  Albany  on  the  Sabbath ;  and  with  small 
or  no  expectation  of  seeing  Saratoga  again. 

We  found  our  worthy  friend.  Dr.  Sprague,  ready  to  re- 
ceive us.  Dr.  Ferris,  of  the  Dutch  Church,  was  ill ;  and 
as  his  charge  would  have  been  without  a  minister,  we 
undertook  to  preach  for  him.  It  is  a  fine  old  church,  in 
English  style  ;  like  many  of  our  churches,  erected  in  bad 
taste,  but  preserving  a  respectable  and  venerable  aspect. 
The  order  of  worship  in  this  body  deviates  a  little  from 
what  is  usual.  There  is  first  an  intercessory  prayer ; 
then  a  blessing  is  pronounced  in  scriptural  terms  on  the 
people ;  then  the  ten  commandments  are  read,  and  some 
portions  of  Scripture.  Afterward  there  is  singing ;  prayer ; 
the  sermon ;  prayer ;  singing ;  and  then  the  benediction. 
There  was  a  good  attendance,  and,  I  should  think,  by 
persons  of  worthy  character  and  respectable  habits. 

In  the  afternoon  I  was  engaged  to  preach  at  Dr. 
Sprague's,  and  to  baptize  his  infant  son.  The  adminis- 
tration follows  the  first  singing.  The  persons  waiting 
for  the  ordinance  are  requested  to  present  themselves. 
They  come  out  before  the  pulpit.  The  minister  addresses 
them  ;  and  descends,  to  baptize  the  child.  He  then  as- 
cends to  the  pulpit,  renews  his  address,  or  offers  prayer ; 
which,  after  specially  noticing  the  subject  before  the  con- 
gregation, becomes  the  general  prayer.  Then  follow 
singing,  and  the  sermon  as  usual.  This  church  is  of  full 
dimensions  ;  and  although  the  afternoon  was  wet,  it  was 
quite  filled.  There  was  great  attention  on  the  part  of 
the  auditory,  and  many  were  much  affected. 

I  desired  to  improve  the  evening  by  uniting  with  some 


>  I 


ALBANY. 


221 


>n,  and  having  so 
)  is  an  adequate 
npany  is  largest, 
me  to  pass  some 
,  and  I  came  on 
)n  an  exact  com- 
,  and  of  the  time 
iliged  to  abandon 
left,  to  fulfil  some 
;  and  with  small 
jain. 

Lgue,  ready  to  re- 
irch,  was  ill ;  and 
It  a  minister,  we 
ne  old  church,  in 
es,  erected  in  bad 
venerable  aspect, 
ates  a  little  from 
rcessory  prayer; 
iral  terms  on  the 
i  read,  and  some 
singing ;  prayer ; 

the  benediction. 

should  think,  by 

}le  habits. 

preach  at  Dr. 

The  adminis- 

jersons  waiting 

sent  themselves. 

inistcr  addresses 
He  then  as- 

)r  offers  prayer ; 
before  the  con- 
Then  follow 

church  is  of  full 

was  wet,  it  was 

on  the  part  of 

ed. 

liting  with  some 


congregation  in  worship.  We  found  one  church  shut, 
and  another  without  its  pastor  ;  and  at  last  entered  some- 
what later  than  we  wished  the  Episcopal  Church,  which 
we  found  open,  but  which  was  also  deprived  of  its  regular 
teacher.  It  is  small;  and  there  were  not  above  150 
persons  present.  The  preacher  was  a  mathematical  pro- 
fessor ;  and  if  in  his  place  in  the  chair,  he  is  certainly  out 
of  it  in  the  pulpit.  His  subject  was  man's  mortahty ; 
and  as  it  had  been  preceded  by  the  aflfecting  prayer  for 
deliverance  from  cholera,  and  as  that  disease  wa?  in  the 
town,  it  should  have  told  in  some  degree.  Yet  it  inter- 
ested no  one.  The  only  remarkable  thing  was,  in  fact, 
the  contrariety  between  the  preacher's  manner  and  his 
composition.  The  one  was  coldness  itself;  while  the 
other  was  inflated  to  an  extreme.  It  abounded  in  excla- 
mations, and  ended  in  an  apostrophe,  which  issued  as 
from  marble  lips,  and  froze  as  they  fell.  I  enjoyed  the 
psalms,  which  were  sung  to  some  of  our  old  and  good 
psalmody,  though  few  united,  and  though  the  poor  organ 
did  us  little  service. 

There  is  in  this  plain  church  a  pew  which  atti^acts  atten- 
tion, and  is  meant  to  do  so.  It  is  composed  of  two,  and 
is  as  large  and  splendid  as  a  mayor's  ;  and  has  a  showy 
lamp  chandelier  suspended  over  it.  When  the  owner  of 
this  dress  box  attends  it  is  lighted,  to  notify  his  presence 
to  the  gazing  congregation.  He  was  present  on  this  oc- 
casion, and  exhibited  a  gold  chain,  like  our  sheriffs.  This 
gentleman  is  from  England,  they  say ;  he  makes  large 
gifts  and  large  charges ;  and  has  succeeded  by  dash. 
How  many  have  done  so  both  in  the  old  and  new  world  ! 
But  is  it  not  a  profanity,  as  well  as  a  folly,  when  these 
vanities  are  carried  into  our  temples,  and  are  made  to 
give  to  the  house  of  God  the  aspect  of  the  theatre  ? 

The  following  day  we  made  an  excursion  to  Troy.  It 
is  a  handsome  town,  of  very  rapid  growth.  The  people 
are  energetic,  and  of  public  spirit;  and  are  following 
fast  after  Albany  in  ornamental  buildings  and  general 
hnprovement.  We  made  calls  here  on  Drs.  Beman  and 
Tucker ;  and  visited  a  school,  which  was  said  to  have 

19^ 


222 


SCHENECTADY. 


!  1 


claims  on  attention.  Dr.  Tucker  accompanied  us  on  our 
return  ;  and  we  made  a  call  on  General  Van  Rensselaer. 
He  is  the  Patroon,  or  Lord  of  the  Manor  here ;  and  is 
considered  the  greatest  landholder  in  the  United  States. 
What  is  better,  he  is  a  most  amiable  man  ;  and  promotes 
the  comfort  of  his  tenants,  and  the  spirit  of  wise  improve- 
ment around  him ;  and,  what  is  still  better,  the  amiable 
and  respectable  portions  of  his  character  are  based  and 
sustained  on  religious  principles  and  exercises.  He  had 
presided  at  several  of  the  public  meetings  at  New- York ; 
and  we  were  welcomed  as  friends.  The  house  stands 
on  rather  low  ground  ;  but  it  commands  a  pleasant  view 
of  the  Mohawk  river  and  of  Troy  in  the  distance.  The 
gardens  are  much  better  than  are  usual  here,  and  remind 
one  of  England  ;  though  they  incline  rather  to  the  Dutch 
than  the  English  style.  There  is  little,  if  any,  that  we 
should  call  pleasure-ground ;  and  there  is  no  attempt  at 
landscape  gardening.  We  walked  round  the  grounds, 
and  conversed  pleasantly,  and  then  took  our  leave.  I  was 
afterward  invited  to  dine,  but  could  not  avail  myself  of 
the  kindness  intended. 


LETTER  XX. 


My  dear  Friend, 

On  the  19th,  I  left  for  Utica.  Mr.  Matheson  had  left 
the  previous  evening  to  attend  the  commencement  at  New- 
Haven.  As  I  had  come  in  this  direction  chiefly  for  the 
sake  of  making  myself  acquainted  with  the  revivals,  for 
which  the  western  part  of  this  State  was  famous ;  and  as 
I  had  not  yet  accomplished  tliis  object,  I  was  constrained 
to  tarry,  with  the  understanding  that  wc  should  meet 
again  at  Amherst. 

I  went  as  far  as  Schenectady  by  the  rail-road.  I  wasj 
assured  that  when  there  I  should  And  a  coach  waiting  to 


ERIE    CANAL. 


223 


convey  me  on  to  Utica,  a  distance  of  about  eighty  miles. 
The  coach  was  indeed  there  ;  but  the  proprietor  was  there 
hkewise,  and  his  business  was  to  ascertain  whether 
enough  would  offer  to  go  by  it  "  to  make  it  worth  his 
while."  His  decision,  in  this  instance,  was  against  its 
running  ;  not  perceiving  that  by  this  short-sighted  policy 
he  gave  uncertainty  to  a  public  conveyance,  and  thus  dis- 
couraged the  public  from  using  it.  My  only  alternative 
was  to  go  by  the  packet-boat,  which  was  preparing  to 
start  immediately. 

I  was  thus  committed  to  a  mode  oftravelling  which  at 
this  unhealthy  season  I  most  wished  to  avoid.  But  I 
was  on  the  Erie  Canal,  and  it  was  some  satisfaction  that 
I  should  have  a  fair  opportunity  of  inspecting  what,  as  a 
work  of  art,  stands  unrivalled  by  any  other  effort  of  this 
enterprising  people.  This  canal  is  360  miles  long,  and 
has  a  branch  canal  running  off  to  Lake  Champlain,  which 
is  sixty  miles  in  length.  It  has  eighty-three  locks,  and 
eighteen  aqueducts;  one  of  which  is  about  1,200  feet. 
It  is  forty  feet  wide  on  the  surface,  and  about  four  feet 
deep.  It  and  the  branch  canal  were  completed  in  less 
than  nine  years,  at  an  expense  of  9,000,000  dollars.  The 
object  is  to  connect  the  Hudson,  and  therefore  New- 
York,  on  the  one  hand,  with  Lake  Champlain,  and  thus 
with  Canada ;  and  on  the  othAr,  to  unite  it  with  Lake 
Erie,  and  with  the  other  mediterranean  seas  of  that  region, 
and  by  consequence  with  the  Ohio  and  the  Mississippi. 
The  Americans  owe  this  to  the  genius  and  patriotism  of 
De  Witt  Clinton,  one  of  the  greatest  men  that  country  ever 
saw  ;  and  when  we  consider  the  extent  of  route,  the  coun- 
tries it  connects,  and  the  influence  it  will  have  on  those 
countries,  done  as  it  is  by  so  young  a  people,  and  with  so 
little  disposable  capital,  it  is  above  comparison,  and  above 
praise. 

There  was  much  business  on  this  water-thoroughfare. 
The  boats  for  the  transit  of  goods  were  called  "  line- 
boats,"  and  those  for  passengers,  "  packets."  The  pack- 
ets were  a  sort  of  mail ;  they  are  drawn  by  three  horses 
at  a  slow  trot ;  and  do  not  clear  more  than  four  miles  an 


224 


MOHAWK    VALLEY. 


?  / 


hour.  With  some  twenty  persons,  our  packet  might  hav« 
been  tolerable  ;  but  it  so  happened  that  we  had  from 
sixty  to  seventy  passengers  on  board,  and  there  was 
much  to  bear.  For  all  these  persons,  male  and  female, 
there  was  only  one  room,  to  live,  and  meal,  and  sleep  in, 
of  about  twelve  feet  by  seventy.  There  were  curtains, 
indeed,  provided,  which  might  separate  a  portion  from  the 
rest  when  needful ;  still  the  dimensions  were  the  same. 

During  the  day,  we  could  relieve  ourselves  by  going 
on  the  roof  of  the  boat ;  and  this  is  a  desirable  place,  both 
for  air  and  the  sight  of  the  country.  But  we  had  difficul- 
ties here.  There  was  no  provision  against  a  burning  sun ; 
and  the  bridges  were  so  numerous  and  so  low  as  to  be 
exceedingly  troublesome,  and,  if  you  were  negligent, 
somewhat  dangerous.  It  was  part  of  the  duty  of  the 
helmsman  to  observe  these,  and  give  notice  of  them  by 
the  cry  of  "  Bridge  !"  It  was  some  time  before  we  got 
drilled  to  it ;  and  when  we  were,  it  was  an  amusing  spec- 
tacle. Some  twenty  men  would  be  standing,  sitting,  and 
looking  about  in  all  directions,  and  variously  engaged ; 
but,  at  the  cry  of  "  A  bridge  !"  they  would  repeat  the  cry 
as  the  papist  w^uld  his  prayers,  and  fix  their  eyes  in  one 
direction  ;  and  \»  hen  the  object  came,  they  would  pros- 
trate themselves  on  the  floor  as  at  the  ringing  of  the  bell 
and  the  elevation  of  the  4iost. 

The  country  through  which  we  were  passing  was 
worth  observation.  It  is  the  Mohawk  Valley,  and  wa- 
tered by  the  river  of  that  name  ;  and  formerly  possessed 
by  the  people  of  that  name,  the  finest  of  the  Indian  na- 
tions. It  is  of  great  extent ;  very  beautiful  and  fertile ; 
has  been  long  settled,  and  shows,  in  an  unusual  degree, 
good  cultivation.  The  upper  portion  was  chiefly  settled 
by  Germans,  and  the  part  we  were  passing  through  by  the 
Dutch.  Everywhere  you  meet  with  marks  of  their  taste 
in  the  fanning ;  the  form,  and  party-coloured  houses  ;  and 
along  the  banks  of  the  canal,  you  have  towns  with  the 
names  of  Rotterdam,  Amsterdam,  and  Frankfort,  to  them 
Settlers  of  later  date,  and  in  further  districts  of  this  State, 
have  taken  offence  at  such  hornespun  appellatives,  and 


ha 
tha 
jur 
Gr 


; 


PASSENGERS. 


225 


packet  might  hav« 
hat  we  had  from 
i,  and  there  was 
male  and  female, 
neal,  and  sleep  in, 
ere  were  curtains, 
a  portion  from  the 
s  were  the  same.  | 
urselves  by  going  | 
sirable  place,  both  | 
ut  we  had  difficul-  | 
nst  a  burning  sun  j 
I  so  low  as  to  be 
were  negligent, 
the  duty  of  the 
otice  of  them  by 
me  before  we  got 
an  amusing  spec- 
nding,  sitting,  and 
riously  engaged ; 
uld  repeat  the  cry 
their  eyes  in  one 
they  would  pros- 
inging  of  the  bell 

ere  passing  was 

Valley,  and  wa- 

merly  possessed 

the  Indian  na- 

itiful  and  fertile; 

unusual  degree, 

as  chiefly  settled 

ig  through  by  the 

rks  of  their  taste 

ired  houses ;  and 

J  towns  with  the 

-ankfort,  to  them 

cts  of  this  State, 

appellatives,  and 


have  sought  to  be  very  classical  in  their  designations.  So 
thai,  in  fact,  within  a  small  limit,  you  get  the  strangest 
jumble  of  English,  Dutch,  German,  Indian,  Roman,  and 
Greek  terms,  imaginable.  The  attempts  at  what  is  clas- 
sical, too,  are  often  very  ridiculous.  You  have,  for  in- 
stance, Utica  in  Ulysses,  and  other  such  varieties. 

Every  disadvantage  has  its  counterpart.  If  we  had  a 
host  of  people  crammed  into  a  little  boat,  it  gave  one  an 
opportunity  of  observing,  unobserved,  the  unconstrained 
manners  of  the  passengers.  Dinner  brought  us  all  to- 
gether ;  and  put  us  on  a  degree  of  intercourse.  It  ap- 
peared that  about  twenty  on  board  were  of  one  party ; 
and  that  they  were  delegates  to  a  convention  of  mechan- 
ics which  was  to  be  held  at  Utica,  against  what  they 
termed  the  State  Prison  Monopoly.  The  ground  of  com- 
plaint was,  that  the  convicts  were  employed  at  several 
trades,  and  that  the  articles  so  manufactured  were  sold 
at  a  price  below  that  of  the  honest  and  independent 
tradesman.  It  was  evident  that  this  delegation  was  com- 
posed of  the  successful  and  superior  manufacturers  of 
New- York.  They  were  a  curious  assemblage  of  per- 
sons :  Dutch,  Irish,  Scotch,  English,  and  American. 
Their  numbers  gave  them  confidence  ;  and  they  were  the 
great  people  of  the  day. 

When  the  dinner  was  over,. they  professed  to  hold,  by 
anticipation,  a  meeting  of  the  delegates  ;  but  the  design 
was  rather  to  discuss  some  champaign  than  any  busi- 
ness. I  took  a  book,  and  remained  at  a  little  distance. 
A  president  was  chosen ;  and  the  wine  was  brought  for- 
ward.    It  was  to  be  seasoned  by  toasts  and  songs.     Mr. 

A ,  a  Scotchman,  was  called  on  to  sing.     He  had 

reputation  in  this  way,  and  brought  applause  about  him. 
His  song  was  a  hit  at  Lords  and  Kings,  and  a  commend- 
ation of  manliness  in  man.  The  president  then  gave, 
"  The  independent  mechanic  ;"  which  was,  of  course, 
drunk  with  "  great  enthusiasm."  Then  came,  "  The 
mechanics  of  the  State,  and  may  ihe  cause  they  are  in 
prosper,"  with  *'  three  times  three,"  and  a  song.  One  of 
the  delegates  then  proposed,  "The   health    of  J 

K3 


II 


It 


226 


PASSENGERS. 


I  .  , 


L ,  Esq,  which  was  chairman  of  the  committee  lohich 

brought  up  ihe  first  report." 

There  was  one  person  among  them  who  declined  the 
wine ;  and  he  v-ras  joked  as  a  water-drinker  and  a  Tem- 
perance man.  He  had  not,  however,  confidence  to  avow 
himself,  though  he  had  to  refuse  the  wine.  He  met  their 
gibes  with  good  temper ;  and  gave  as  a  toast,  "  May  he 
that  has  power  to  help  us,  and  does  not,  want  a  cup  of 
cold  water."  This  uncharitable  sentiment  conciliated 
their  prejudices,  and  they  kept  on  good  terms  with  him. 

These  men  were  e\  ently  not  accustomed  to  the  use 
of  wine,  and  they  usea  it  inordinately.  The  tumljler 
was,  in  some  cases,  preferred  to  the  glass.  As  th?  wine 
entered,  the  wit,  such  as  it  was,  got  out ;  it  was  ^vitless 
and  vile  enough.     But  I  took  warning,  and  went  iibove. 

Their  potations  of  wine  heated  them,  and  made  them 
restless  ;  and  they  soon  followed  me  to  the  roof.  Here 
they  amused  themselves  with  all  manner  of  boyish  tricks 
and  practical  jokes.  They  knocked  each  other's  hats 
off;  jumped  on  shore ;  chased  each  6ther.  One  of  them 
got  possession  of  a  horse,  and  mounted ;  another  hung 
on  its  tail ;  while  a  third  seized  the  rein  and  tried  to  dis-^ 
mount  the  rider.  He,  to  free  himself,  pricked  the  horse ; 
the  animal  knocked  down  the  man  who  had  the  rein,  and 
left  him  rolling  into  the  canal.  The  enacting  of  this 
scene,  like  the  fifth  act  of  a  comedy,  brought  merriment 
to  a  crisis ;  and  was  attended  by  roars  of  laughter. 

Then  came  the  deductions  on  a  course  of  folly; 
fatigue,  discomfort,  ennui,  and,  with  the  better  sort, 
shame  and  regret.  It  was,  certainly,  but  a  poor  speci- 
men of  the  tradesmen  of  a  great  city.  They  were  well 
dressed,  indeed,  and  had  much  rough  energy  of  charac- 
ter ;  but,  with  one  or  two  exceptions,  nothing  more  of  a 
favourable  complexion  can  be  educed.  If  any  one  of 
them  professed  religion,  it  was  not  seen  here.  Sorry  I 
am  to  say,  that  the  two  worst  were  an  Irishman  and 
a  Scotchman. 

The  ladies  who  were  on  board  were  prudent ;  two  or 
three  of  them  pious.     Two  of  them  came  out  into  thQ 


! 


I 

I 


PASSENGERS. 


227 


committee  which 


i 


prow  of  the  vessel,  and  seated  themselves  near  me,  that 
they  might  enjoy  the  fine  moonli^rhi  scenery,  and  rid 
themselves  of  disquiet  within.  The  younger  one  ob- 
served, with  a  plaintive  air,  "  that  she  loved  to  sit  out  in 
moonlight,  because  it  mellowed  all  the  finer  sentiments 
of  the  soul."  The  elder  one,  who  did  not,  in  the  least, 
comprehend  the  subject,  remarked,  "  that  she  did  not  see 
it  was  so  melancholy  as  people  said."  Both,  however, 
seemed  able  to  connect  the  things  made  with  the  Hand 
that  made  them. 

But  night  came,  and  with  it,  it  was  needful  to  look  to 
sleeping  accommodation.  From  all  appearances,  it  did 
not  seem  that  any  provision  could  be  made  for  this  pur- 
pose. It  was  soon  shown  how  much  contrivance  could 
do,  if  it  could  not  do  all  that  the  occasion  required. 
The  curtains  I  named  were  dropped  over  one  third  of  the 
room,  and  thus  made  a  division  for  the  ladies  and  chil- 
dren. Our  portion  of  the  room  was  cleared.  A  set  of 
franies,  like  larger  shelves,  were  produced ;  and  were 
suspended  behind,  by  hinge  and  pivot,  to  the  side  of  the 
vessel,  and  in  front,  by  a  small  cord  attached  to  the  ceil- 
ing. Three  tier  of  these  were  carried  round  the  room, 
which  was  not  more  than  six  feet  high ;  so  that  it  had 
the  appearance  of  being  filled,  from  top  to  floor,  with 
small  bins.  Then  all  the  tables  were  collected,  and 
placed  down  the  middle  of  the  room,  as  far  as  they  would 
go.  The  settees  were  omployed  to  fill  in  any  possible 
spaces ;  and  a^ter  all  this  accommodation  was  disposed 
of,  it  was  plainly  understood  that  there  remained  just  the 
floor. 

The  captain,  a  civil  man,  proposed  that  the  company 
should  choose  births  as  their  names  stood  on  his  list, 
which  was  filled  in  as  they  came  on  board.  As  the 
delegates  were  the  first,  he  knew  that  this  would  satisfy 
them ;  and  this  was  not  a  small  matter.  By  the  same 
rule,  I  knew  that  I  should  come  nearly  last ;  an  issue  the 
captain  wished  to  avert,  but  to  which  I  was  really  indif- 
ferent, for  I  shrunk  altogether  from  any  acconunodation 
among  so  many,  and  in  so  small  a  space.     The  names 


•w 


228 


MOIIT    ON    THE    WATEU. 


it 


I. 


ut 


I: 


were  called,  and  the  births  chosen,  and  the  possessors 
began  to  *'  turn  in."  I  retreated  from  the  noise  and  con- 
fusion, once  CTiore,  to  the  roof;  and  out- watched  the  set- 
ting moon.  As  the  moon  fell,  the  damps  arose  ;  and  it 
was  needful  to  walk  to  prevent  cold.  All  was  now 
hushed  ;  except  here  and  there  the  helmsman's  voice 
broke  sharply  on  my  ear,  to  warn  me  of  "  A  bridge."  I 
could  hear  my  foot  fall ;  and  as  it  fell  over  the  multitude 
slumbering  beneath  it,  it  seemed  like  a  living  entombment 
of  my  fellow-mortals. 

Still  the  damps  and  cold  increased ;  and  I  was  con- 
strained to  screen  myself  as  I  could  below.  Two  or 
three  gentlemen  offered  to  relinquish  their  births  in  my 
favour;  but  I  could  not  expose  others  to  privation  to 
escape  it  myself;  and  my  resolution  had  been  previously 
taken,  not  to  lie  down  that  night.  I  took  a  couple  of 
chairs,  and  placing  them  as  near  the  door  as  practicable, 
I  lounged  on  them  in  such  a  way  as  to  rest  the  body,  and 
possibly  to  forget  myself  for  a  few  minutes. 

It  was  now  beyond  midnight ;  and  nearly  all  were  fast 
asleep,  and  were  assuring  you  of  it  by  muttering  and 
noisy  respiration.  The  sight  was  really  a  singular  one. 
The  room  was  packed  all  round,  from  top  to  bottom,  with 
living  beings.  The  tables,  the  settees,  the  floor,  all 
covered.  My  chairs  had  scarcely  a  place  to  stand ;  and 
two  persons  lay  at  my  feet,  and  one  at  my  elbow.  Two 
lines  of  cord  had  been  carried  down  the  ceiling  of  the 
room,  that  the  spare  garments  might  be  hung  on  them- 
Here,  then,  was  an  exhibition  of  coats,  trousers,  waist- 
coats, cravats,  and  hats,  worthy  Of  Monmouth-street ;  the 
great  evil  of  which  was,  that  it  cut  off  the  little  chances 
of  ventilation.  Two  glimmering,  unsnuffed  candles,  gave 
sepulchral  lights  to  the  whole. 

Occasionally,  however,  the  scene  was  animated.  The 
vessel  was  liable  to  sharp  jerks  on  entering  the  locks ; 
and  when  these  occurred,  you  might  see  some  dozen 
heads  starting  from  the  sides,  like  so  many  turtles  from 
their  shells ;  with  a  suitable  accompaniment  of  wild  and 
■leepy  exclamations ;  and  then  again  they  were  drawn  in, 


ITTICA. 


229 


and  all  was  still,  I  fell  in*  a  short  slumber,  and  re- 
proached myself  for  doing  so ;  when  I  awoke  I  found  my 
loot  in  the  face  of  another  sleeper ;  and  as  the  night  wore 
away,  most  of  them  getting  into  similar  predicaments. 
But  the  great  evil  of  the  place  arose  from  the  confmed  and 
suffocating  state  of  the  air,  shut  out,  as  it  was,  from  all 
external  influence.  It  indisposed  me,  and  before  four 
o'clock  I  was  on  the  roof  again.  Never  shall  I  for- 
get that  night. 

The  fogs  lay  heavily  all  around  us,  and  after  making 
the  best  of  it  for  an  hour,  I  was  getting  very  chilly,  and 
was  fearful  of  the  consequences.  I  went  down,  and 
stood  awhile  at  the  doorway ;  desirous  of  escaping  the 
smells  within,  and  the  damp  wind  without.  They  were 
now  generally  seeking  to  dress ;  but  this  was  no  easy 
matter.  One  had  lost  his  boots,  another  his  hat,  another 
his  cravat,  another  his  money,  and  another  his — every 
thing.  Then  there  were  outcries,  and  searciiings,  and 
exchanges ;  in  seeking  one  article,  a  score  would  be 
thrown  out  of  place;  and  so  it  went  on  till  confusion 
was  twice  confounded. 

Early  in  the  day,  I  landed  at  Utica.  It  is  a  fine, 
thriving  town;  free  from  all  signs  of  age  or  poverty; 
and  resembling  the  many  towns  which  are  found  on  this 
line  from  Albany  to  Buffalo.  Sickness  was  prevailing 
here.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Aickin  was  just  leaving,  with  an  in- 
valid wife,  and  he  himself  fell  sick  the  following  day. 
My  friend,  Mr.  Bethune,  had  left  his  charge  here  ;  and  I 
was  indebted  to  the  Rev.  Mr.  Hopkins  for  much  kind  at- 
tention in  his  absence. 

As  I  could  not  stay  more  than  a  couple  of  days,  it  was 
necessary  that  I  should  begin  instantly  to  improve  the 
time.  Mr.  Hopkins  attended  me  to  Oneida  Institution, 
Hamilton  College,  and  such  objects  in  the  town  as  were 
deserving  of  attention.  On  the  previous  Thursday,  the 
place  had  been  visited  by  a  severe  storm ;  and  the  effects 
were  everywhere  apparent.  One  church  tower  was 
swept  away ;  thirteen  houses  were  unroofed  ;  and  trees 
without  number,  in  the  environs,  were  uprooted  and 

20 


S30 


ONEIDA   INSTITUTION. 


I  ;i: 


'    i 


lying  in  ruin.  In  ruin,  however,  the  suburbs  were  s(ill 
pleasing.  I  was  referred  to  a  dwelling  of  special  preten- 
tions ;  and  was  told  that  it  was  built  in  imitation  of  the 
English  cottage.  Greatly  would  they  be  deceived  who 
should  take  it  tor  a  sample.  Of  this  English  cottage,  the 
body  is  Gothic  ;  the  parapet  of  no  style  ;  and  the  portico 
Grecian.  But  what  of  this !  It  is  only  such  a  combina- 
tion as  we  sfte  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Westminster  Hall. 

The  Hamilton  College  occupies  a  very  commanding 
spot ;  and  is  in  a  thriving  state.  It  had  languished 
under  some  pecuniary  ditficulties ;  but  Professor  Dwight 
had  used  his  influence  in  its  favour,  and  had  raised  a 
large  sum  for  its  relief.  Unhappily,  the  professor  was 
not  at  home,  nor  was  the  College  in  session. 

I  ascertained  that  there  were  some  Congregational 
Churches  in  this  district,  and  I  called  with  Mr.  Hopkins 
on  Dr.  Morton,  the  Secretary  of  the  Association.  We 
conferred  for  some  time,  and  I  promised  to  address  a  fra- 
ternal letter  to  the  Association,  which  promise  I  after- 
ward redeemed. 

The  Oneida  Institution  is  about  two  miles  from  the 
town.  It  is  estabhshed  on  the  principle  of  uniting 
labour  with  learning,  and  has  Dr.  Green  at  its  head.  I 
was  conducted  over  it.  It  has  only  been  attempted 
within  the  last  four  years ;  and  does  not  yet  amount  to 
even  an  experiment  on  the  subject.  The  young  men,  at 
present,  are  employed  on  the  garden  and  small  farm; 
and  the  trades  have  not  yet  been  tried.  The  accommo- 
dations are  of  the  plainest  kind ;  the  library  very  low  ; 
there  is  a  reading-room,  having  very  few  books,  but  sup- 
plied with  eighteen  or  twenty  newspapers.  There  is 
attached  to  it  a  smaller  provision  for  boys.  I  shall  have 
occasion  to  recur  to  this  subject. 

I  made,  while  here,  a  hasty  excursion  with  my  friend, 
to  the  Trenton  Falls.  They  are  distant  about  fifteen 
miles.  The  road  is  bad,  but  the  scenery  good ;  thu  view 
taken  from  the  hill,  about  five  miles  on  the  way,  really 
magnificent. 

The  Falls  are  just  as  you  would  desire  to  find  them. 


TRENTON   FALLS. 


231 


burbs  were  sdll 
f  special  preten- 
mitation  of  the 
B  deceived  who 
lish  cottage,  the 
and  the  portico 
uch  a  combina- 
;sttninster  Hall. 
ry  commanding 
lad  languished 
rofessor  Dwight 
id  had  raised  a 
professor  was 
ion. 

Congregational 
th  Mr.  Hopkins 
sociation.     We 
:o  address  a  fra- 
promise  I  after- 
miles  from  the 
pie   of  uniting 
at  its  head.     I 
)een  attempted 
yet  amount  to 
young  men,  at 
id  small  farm; 
The  accoromo- 
rary  very  low ; 
books,  but  sup- 
ers.    There  is 
I  shall  have 

with  my  friend, 
about  fifteen 
[ood ;  thu  view 
the  way,  really 

3  to  find  them. 


There  is  one  inn  for  your  accommodation,  and  this  does 
not  interfere  in  the  least  with  the  seclusion  of  the  object. 
The  same  good  taste  reigns  througiiout.  There  are  more 
facilities  provided  for  easy  access  to  these  Falls  than 
are  common,  and  yet  they  are  far  less  obtrusive.  Alarm 
has  been  taken  because  some  lives  were  lost  here  recent- 
ly ;  but  I  know  of  no  great  natural  curiosity  to  be  seen 
with  less  personal  danger  or  discomfort. 

On  leaving  the  hotel,  you  pass  a  wicket  gate,  and  find 
yourself  enclosed  in  a  wood.  You  make  a  gradual  de- 
scent, and  are  then  assisted  by  some  step-ladders,  which 
carry  you  down  some  rocky  steeps.  On  reaching  the 
foot  of  these,  the  woods  stand  up  all  around  you ;  and 
below,  and  before  you,  the  dark  waters  of  the  river,  with 
their  snowy  crests,  are  chafing  and  dashing  away  through 
an  immense  bed  of  solid  rock,  which  they  have  cut  for 
themselves.  You  pass  along  some  ledges  of  this  rock, 
and  the  principal  fall  is  before  you.  You  still  pursue 
your  way  on  the  rocks,  which  are  sometimes  contracted 
to  narrow  shelves,  admitting  only  one  person,  and  requi- 
ring care ;  but  which  generally  expand  into  fine  terrace- 
walks,  leaving  you  at  leisure  to  wander  at  will.  During 
this  promenade^  the  other  falls  make  their  appearance  in 
succession.  This  is  the  great  charm  of  these  Falls,  and, 
as  I  think,  their  distinguishing  characteristic.  Their 
character  is  the  picturesque  ;  and  it  is  this  combination, 
with  these  successive  distances,  which  compose  that 
character.  As  you  move  on,  the  object  accumulates 
upon  you ;  you  add  the  second  fall  to  the  first,  and  the 
third  to  the  second,  and  are  delighted  with  your  acquisi- 
tion. You  wish  continually  to  pause  to  admire  the  pic- 
ture, with  its  additional  beauties  ;  and  you  wish  to  go 
on,  expecting  that  every  step  shall  make  still  finer  addi- 
tions. And  when  you  have  most  in  view,  the  eye  may 
rest  on  it  till  it  becomes  as  one  to  the  imagination,  hav- 
ing a  power  and  an  elevation  which  do  not  belong  to  any 
separate  fall. 

After  having  taken  this  combined  and  characteristic 
view,  you  have  still  to  study  them  in  their  separate  forms, 


232 


TRENTON  FALLS. 


'   ! 


and  from  nearer  pointa  of  si^^ht;  and  they  will  amply 
reward  you.  The  principal  fall,  especially,  asserts  its 
power  as  you  approach  it.  As  you  ascend  to  its  head, 
it  supplies  you  with  points  of  view,  which,  if  occupied, 
will  make  you  tremulous  and  dizzy  ;  and  when  you  re- 
pose at  its  feet,  and  look  up,  and  see  only  it — hear  only 
it — while  its  mass  of  waters,  hke  a  bed  of  rolling,  spark- 
ling amber,  dash  from  the  rocks  above  to  the  deep  below, 
and  run  foaming  and  struggling  away  into  the  prodigious 
black  basins  beneath,  you  are  sensible  of  its  greatness. 

I  passed  upward  as  far  as  we  can  go,  and  compared 
the  claims  of  the  different  cascades.  The  return  still 
affords  you  fresh  views  of  the  objects  you  admire.  When 
the  eye  has  got  familiar  with  the  place,  there  is,  perhaps, 
nothing  you  admire  more  than  the  coup  tfceil  of  the  whole. 
The  rocks,  the  waters,  the  woods,  the  skies,  wonderfully 
assist  each  other.  You  are  in  a  lovely  glen,  open  to  the 
sun,  but  shut  up  by  the  rocks  and  the  forest  from  all 
things  else.  Everywhere  you  may  find  the  most  re- 
freshing shade,  and  everywhere  you  have  the  sense  of 
perfect  retirement ;  but  always  it  is  the  shade  and  the 
retirement  which  have  cheerfulness  for  their  companion. 
You  have  a  pleasurable  satisfaction  in  where  you  are  and 
what  you  see ;  you  are  not  disappointed  that  you  see  no 
more,  nor  are  you  overwhelmed  that  you  see  so  much. 
It  is  a  place  where  the  spirit  may  repose ;  it  insensibly 
inspires  you  with  content,  placidity,  and  elevation.  It  is 
one  of  nature^s  finest  temples,  secluded  from  the  world, 
but  open  to  heaven ;  where  ten  thousand  worshippers 
might  stand,  and  whence  ten  thousand  voices  might  as- 
cend, supported  by  the  deep  tones  of  the  Falls,  in  praise 
to  the  omnipotent  Creator. 

We  took  hasty  refreshments  at  the  inn,  and  returned,  as 
I  had  to  preach  that  evening  for  my  friend.  I  was  not 
well ;  for  I  had  taken  cold  in  the  boat,  as  I  expected.  The 
weather  also,  though  still  warm,  had  varied  by  30°,  and, 
therefore,  to  sensation  was  cold,  and  promoted  fever  and 
hoarseness ;  but  as  I  was  announced  for  the  service,  I 
hoped  to  be  able  to  pass  through  it.     To  my  surprise,  on 


ALBANY. 


233 


they  will  amply 
ially,  asserts  its 
send  to  its  head, 
ich,  if  occupied, 
id  when  you  re- 
ly it — hear  only 
)f  rolling,  spark- 
•  the  deep  below, 
;o  the  prodigious 
f  its  greatness. 
>,  and  compared 
The  return  still 
admire.  When 
here  is,  perhaps, 
til  of  the  whole, 
ies,  wonderfully 
jlen,  open  to  the 
forest  from  all 
id  the  most  re- 
re  the  sense  of 

shade  and  the 
leir  companion, 
ere  you  are  and 
that  you  see  no 

see  so  much. 
i ;  it  insensibly 
levation.  It  is 
from  the  world, 
nd  worshippers 
Dices  might  as- 
Falls,  in  praise 


a  few  hours'  notice,  there  was  a  large  attendance ;  and 
the  people  were  delightfully  attentive. 

On  the  following  evening,  I  proposed  that  we  should 
have  a  meeting  of  ministers  and  friends  for  conference 
and  prayer.  We  had  a  full  room,  and  it  was  increased 
very  pleasantly  by  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Hague,  from  Boston, 
and  Mr.  Patton,  from  New- York.  It  was  to  me  a  de- 
lightful and  profitable  occasion.  At  this,  and  at  other 
opportunities,  my  concern  was  chiefly  to  obtain  correct 
information  on  the  revivals  which  had  occurred  in  this 
place,  and  throughout  this  line  of  country.  They  had 
been  much  talked  of,  and  not  unfrequently  they  had  been 
held  up,  even  by  the  friends  of  revivals,  rather  as  warn- 
ings than  examples.  I  had  great  reason  to  be  satisfied 
that  I  had  made  this  excursion,  not  only  for  the  positive 
information  obtained,  but  also  for  the  assistance  it  gave 
me  to  mature  an  opinion  on  a  subject  of  serious  difficulty, 
but  of  cardinal  importance.  The  notices  that,  from  their 
locahty,  might  fall  in  here,  had  better  be  reserved,  with 
other  material,  for  separate  consideration. 

The  firiends  at  Utica  were  exceedingly  desirous  that 
I  should  spend  the  Sabbath  with  them ;  especially  as  Mr. 
Patton  had  come  to  plead  the  educational  cause,  and 
pressed  for  my  assistance.  It  would  have  given  me 
great  pleasure  to  have  met  their  wishes,  but  I  must  have 
sacrificed  some  lonfMortimt  portions  of  my  plans ;  and  I 
had  "  to  learn  to  say  no." 


md  returned,  as 
id.  I  was  not 
xpected.  The 
}d  by  30°,  and, 
loted  fever  and 
r  the  service,  J 
my  surprise,  on 


LETTER  XXL 

My  dear  Friend, 
Early,  therefore,  on  the  morning  of  the  23d,  I  lef^  for 
Albany.     I  had  had  enough  of  tlie  packets,  and  returned 
by  the  stage.     I  was  still  unwell  from  the  cold  I  had 

20* 


234 


SCHENECTADY. 


:l 


taken ;  and,  among  other  expressions  of  it,  it  gave  me 
a  stiff  neck,  which  exposed  me  to  much  suffering  on  a 
bad  road,  in  a  journey  of  eighty  miles.  I  think  I  never 
endured  more  in  travelling,  from  pain  and  dust. 

From  time  to  time,  however,  my  attention  was  called 
forth  by  the  interesting  objects  in  this  ride.  Especially 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Little  Falls,  the  scenery  is 
most  attractive.  It  is  full  of  romance  and  picture,  over 
which  the  artist  and  the  poet  might  employ  themselves 
for  days  and  weeks,  and  still  have  much  to  do.  I  passed 
through  two  small  villages  near  here,  and  on  the  banks 
of  the  Mohawk,  which  were  just  springing  up  into  life.  It 
was  remarkable  that  the  churches  were  growing  up  with 
the  dwellings.  There  could  not  be  a  thousand  persons 
in  each  ;  but  there  were  three  churches  building  in  one, 
and  two  in  the  other. 

We  made  a  halt  at  one  inn  on  our  way ;  at  which  we 
sought  eagerly  to  refresh  ourselves,  in  heat  and  dust,  by 
a  draught  of  cold  water.  The  landlord,  with  an  old  Ger- 
man name,  picked  a  quarrel  with  us,  and  swore  at  tKe 
times,  for  supplanting  spirits  by  water.  "  How  was  he 
to  live  by  giving  away  water !"  There  was  something 
natural,  if  not  hospitable,  in  this  exclamation  ;  but  it  de- 
serves remark,  that  in  the  endless  instances  in  which 
myself  and  others  sought,  in  our  journey,  water,  and  noth- 
ing more,  it  was  always  supplied  without  grudging,  and 
frequently  with  some  trouble. 

We  did  not  reach  Schenectady  till  ten  at  night.  I 
was  greatly  fatigued,  and  indisposition  had  increased; 
and  I  would  willingly  have  used  a  hot  bath,  but  could 
not  obtain  one.  My  next  best  remedy  was  medicine 
and  rest.  I  tried  both ;  yet  remained  unwell.  It  was 
the  Sabbath,  however,  and  I  sought  a  place  of  worship. 
My  intention  had  been  to  go  to  Mr.  Bachus's ;  but,  by 
mistake,  I  was  directed  to  the  Dutch  Church,  and  had 
the  gratification  of  uniting  in  a  service,  conducted  by  Dr. 
Ludlow,  of  Albany.  I  afterward  found  the  church  of  Mr. 
Bachus ;  but  there  was  no  regular  service,  and  he  joined 
me  in  attending  once  more  at  the  Dutch  Church.     He 


I 


i 


UNION  COLLEUii. 


235 


it,  it  gave  me 
suffering  on  a 
I  think  I  never 
dust.  I 

ion  was  called 
le.  Especially 
,  the  scenery  is 
nd  picture,  over 
)loy  themselves 

0  do.  I  passed 
id  on  the  banks 
up  into  life.  It 
rrowing  up  with 
lousand  persons 
building  in  one, 

y ;  at  which  we 
3at  and  dust,  by 
with  an  old  Ger- 
id  swore  at  tKe 
"  How  was  he 

was  something 
ition  ;  but  it  de- 

inces  in  which 
'ater,  and  noth- 
It  grudging,  and 

in  at  night.     I 

1  had  increased; 
[bath,  but  could 

was  medicine 
mwell.  It  was 
ice  of  worship. 
;hus's ;  but,  by 
lurch,  and  had 
mducted  by  Dr. 
church  of  Mr. 
\j  and  he  joined 
Church.     He 


perceived  that  I  was  unwell,  and  insisted  on  my  moving 
to  his  residence,  that  I  might  nurse.  I  accepted  his  kind 
proposal;  and  was  somewhat  better  on  the  following 
day. 

We  visited  Union  College,  which  is  situated  here.  It 
is  exceedingly  well  placed,  on  an  estate  of  about  300 
acres  ;  and  considerable  property  is  hkely  to  come  to  it. 
Its  plan  is  very  large  ;  but  I  had  some  disappointment  in 
not  findii.T^  it  executed.  At  the  inn  there  was  a  large 
pai-ting  of  the  whole  ;  and  some  genilemen,  on  referring 
to  it,  exclaimed,  "  There,  is  not  that  a  splendid  place  1 
That  is  Union  College  !"  and  these  circumstances  gave 
reality  to  the  thing.  But  on  arriving  at  the  spot,  I  found 
that  only  the  wings  were  erected.  On  its  present  scale, 
however,  it  is  thriving  ;  and  there  is  the  prospect  of  its" 
becoming  as  magnificent  as  it  was  proposed  to  be. 

Most  of  the  professors  were  absent,  but  I  was  introdu- 
ced to  the  President,  Dr.  Nott ;  a  person  known  in  Brit- 
ain, chiefly  as  the  inventor  of  the  stove  which  bears  his 
name.  He  is  known  in  his  own  country  as  having  been 
one  of  her  most  able  and  efficient  ministers,  and  as  hav- 
ing contributed  mainly  to  found  the  College  over  which 
he  presides.  He  was  free  to  converse  on  the  subjects  to 
which  you  led  the  way ;  but  it  was  evident  to  me  that 
his  mind  was  filled  with  some  engrossing  care.  One 
successful  invention,  like  a  prize  in  the  lottery,  often 
leads  to  ruin.  His  success  with  the  stove  may  have 
led  to  other  speculations ;  till  he  may  find  himself  op- 
pressed with  the  weight  of  worldly  care,  from  which  he 
would,  but  cannot,  disburden  himself. 

At  noon,  I  took  leave  of  my  friend  and  brother,  Mr. 
Bachus,  and  went  to  Albany,  where  I  found  Dr.  Sprague 
expecting  my  return.  I  had  not  yet  seen  much  of  this 
town,  and  there  was  much  that  challenged  inspection. 
The  principal  buildings  stand  on  the  top  of  the  hill,  call- 
ed the  Capitol ;  from  which  a  fine  wide  street  runs  down 
to  the  river,  and  the  closer  parts  of  the  town.  The  Cap- 
itol, or  State-House,  occupies  the  very  summit  of  this 
hill,  and  has  a  noble  appearance^  from  its  dimensions  and 


236 


FEMALE  ACADEMY. 


%        ^i 


^fl 


elevation.  The  City  Hall  is  of  white  marble,  and  worthy 
to  be  its  companion.  The  Institute  and  the  Academy 
are  here  also ;  and  are  respectable  foundations.  They 
make,  as  a  cluster  of  public  structures,  a  grand  spectacle ; 
ahhough  they  have  nothing,  as  works  of  art,  demanding 
separate  encomium.  The  Orphan  Asylum,  in  the  vicin- 
ity, is  well  conducted.  Besides  these,  there  are  two 
new  erections,  which,  from  their  pretensions,  may  require 
notice.  The  one  is  the  Female  Academy.  It  is  a  large 
and  very  handsome  portico,  of  the  Ionic  order ;  and  it  is 
only  to  be  lamented  that,  with  the  exception  of  the  base 
of  the  columns  and  the  steps,  it  is  constructed  of  wood, 
and  not  of  marble.  The  hghts  under  the  portico  are 
objectionable ;  and  a  great  deal  is  sacrificed  within  for 
the  sake  of  external  ornament.  As  a  school  for  female 
education,  it  is,  however,  very  remarkable  ;  the  first  of 
its  kind  in  this  country  ;  and  it  will  require  further  con- 
sideration. 

The  other  erection  is  a  church,  for  the  use  of  Dr. 
Welch  and  his  congregation.  It  is  a  very  ambitious  af- 
fair. All  the  good  and  approved  things,  it  is  attempted 
to  combine  ;  there  are  portico,  turret,  and  dome.  They 
are  all  executed  after  the  best  models,  and  with  expen- 
sive ornament.  On  entering  beneath  the  portico,  you  are 
surprised  to  find  yourself,  not  in  a  lofty  church,  but  in  a 
room  with  low  ceiling,  and  every  way  plain  appearance. 
The  fact  is,  the  church  is  still  above  you ;  and  by  this 
arrangement  height  is  gained  for  the  external  elevation, 
and  a  good  lecture  and  school-room  are  provided  for  the 
uses  of  the  congregation.  I  ascended  to  the  church. 
It  is  well  arranged  and  fitted  ;  except  that  the  Corinthian 
columns,  which  rise  from  fioor  to  ceiUng,  interrupt  the 
sight,  and  are  made  to  carry,  in  their  way,  the  galleries. 
Dr.  Welch  is  a  Baptist ;  and  one  inconvenience  in  hav- 
ing the  church  over  the  room  is,  that  he  could  not  sink 
a  baptistery  in  the  fioor.  To  meet  this  difiiculty,  a  large 
oval  tub,  like  a  brewer's  vat,  is  provided ;  it  is  placed 
on  rollers  and  slides,  and  is  drawn  out  from  beneath  the 
pulpit  when  it  is  wanted.     It  stands  three  or  four  feet 


iiigi 

tize( 

othe 

mini 

whic 

stres 

the  1 

they 

]  comi 

:  the  V 

hype 

Tl 

to  th( 

letter 

tions 


sor 


T^ 


my  iv 
wanv« 
The  c 
the  St 
genci* 
libera 
I  the  vo 
i  made 
On 
coach 


I 


\ 


JOURNEY. 


237 


rble,  and  worthy 
d  the  Academy 
idations.  They 
rrand  spectacle ; 

■  art,  demanding 
I3n,  in  the  vicin- 
,  there  are  two 
ons,  may  require 
ly.     It  is  a  large 

order ;  and  it  is 
ption  of  the  base 
tructed  of  wood, 

■  the  portico  are 
rificed  within  for 
school  for  female 
ible  ;  the  first  of 
luire  further  con- 


(^ 


nigh  ;  and  must,  therefore,  expose  the  persons  to  be  bap- 
tized. Apart  from  this  inconvenience,  I  know  of  none 
other,  except  it  be  that  it  deprives  the  worthy  and  popular 
minister  of  one  argument  from  scriptural  expressions,  on 
which  his  brethren  have  been  accustomed  to  lay  great 
stress.  It  can  no  longer  be  said  that  they  go  down  into 
the  water,  and  come  up  out  of  the  water  ;  for  the  fact  is, 
they  reverse  the  order,  and  go  up  into  the  water,  and 
come  down  from  the  water.  How  far  this  may  affect 
the  validity,  is  a  question  which  must  be  left  with  the 
hypercritics  to  determine. 

The  evening  of  the  day,  which  had  been  thus  devoted 
to  the  inspection  of  objects  illustrative  of  the  state  of  art, 
letters,  and  rehgion,  was  spent  in  interesting  conversa- 
tions at  Dr.  Sprague's.  Chancellor  Walworth,  Profes- 
sor T^'  ^-'Iftr,  and  other  friends,  took  part  in  them,  much  to 
my  i  -age.  The  revivals  of  that  vicinity,  and  the 
wan  '  ihe  West,  were  mostly  the  subjects  before  us. 
The  chancellor  had,  especially,  good  means  of  knowing 
the  state  of  the  West ;  and  he  candidly  admitted  the  exi- 
gencies, as  I  was  disposed  to  refer  to  them ;  but  his  de- 
liberate opinion  was,  that  the  remedy  was  to  be  found  in 
the  voluntary  principle,  and  not  in  any  supposed  provision 
made  by  the  State. 

On  the  morning  of  the  26th,  I  was  to  start  with  the 
coach  at  two  o'clock.  But,  instead  of  coming  at  two,  it 
came  at  one  ;  and  when  this  was  complained  of,  the  re- 
ply was,  "  That  it  was  best  to  be  before  time."  With 
too  much  kindness.  Dr.  Sprague  arose  to  see  me  start 
fairly.  We  were  not  certain  of  meeting  again,  and,  in 
fact,  have  not  met  since  that  night. 

We  cleared  the  town ;  crossed  the  bridge ;  and  got 
out  into  the  open  country.  The  moon  was  sailing 
through  the  clouds,  and  by  her  occasional  lights  was  re- 
vealing to  us  a  wild  and  hilly  prospect.  We  made  an 
ascent  of  a  stiff  hill ;  and  came  up  with  the  Hartford 
stage,  which  was  halting  in  the  road.  The  driver  had 
just  ascertained  that  the  boot  had  been  robbed ;  and  they 
were  waiting  to  challenge  us  to  the  pursuit  and  rescue. 


:'')• 


i^'l 


238 


PURSUIT. 


The  young  man  whose  property  was  missing,  whined 
piteously,  and  entreated  help — "  He  had  lost  a  large 
trunk,  with  thirty  dollars  in  it,  besides  other  valuables." 
There  was  little  need  of  this,  not  very  heroic,  plead- 
ing.    Our  party  was  strong,  and  in  high  spirits ;  there 
was  .something  chivalrous  in  the  deed ;  and  they  were 
ready  for  the  chase.     They  put  to  the  test  the  safety  of 
our  own  luggage ;  agreed  on  the  perc^ns  who  should 
take  charge  of  the  teams  ;  and  set  forward  on  the  search 
Still  tiij  effort  had  a  very  hopeless  appearance  about  it, 
The  misty  moonlight  lay  on  the  road  and  its  green  mar- 
gin, and  made  itself  felt ;  but  beyond  this,  all  was  wild 
forest,  on  whose  shadows  it  could  make  no  impression, 
and  where  a  hundred  robbers,  with  all  their  booty,  might 
find  speedy  and  effectual  cover.     The  force  divided  it- 
self into  two  parties,  and  decided  on  the  tracks  to  be 
taken.     Each  one  armed  himself  with  stick,  or  otherwise, 
as  he  best  could ;  ior  they  did  not  know  the  strength  of 
the  foe.     A  dog  fell  in  with  the  party  to  which  our  driver 
was  attached ;  and  he  was  wise  enough  to  let  it  lead. 
It  led  them  to  the  spot  where  lay  the  black  trunk,  and 
the  discovery  was  announced  to  the  other  pursuers  by 
the  cry  which  shot  up  among  them,  "  Hurrah !  the  trunk 
is  found."     It  appeared  that  the  robber  or  robbers  had 
not  been  able  to  run  "vith  it  far,  and  were  proceeding  to 
rifle  it  of  its  contents,  when  they  must  have  been  alarm- 
ed.    The  straps  were  cut  off,  but  they  had  not  yet  been 
able  to  force  the  lock,  so  that  all  was  safe.     It  also  ap- 
peared that  the  faithful  dog,  which  had  been  the  chief 
agent  in  finding  the  trunk,  had  first,  by  his  barking,  given 
notice  of  the  robbery.     The  driver,  on  looking  back  to 
the  dog,  saw  some  moving  shadows  in  the  distance ;  and 
this  sight  may  be  supposed  to  have  maimed  his  courage, 
for  he  certainly  took  but  a  small  share  in  the  general 
hue  and  cry.     This  dog  would   afterward   follow  our 
coach  aid  driver,  as  if  for  our  protection.     We  could  not 
induce  it  to  go  back ;  and  it  really  went  till  we  changed 
both,  a  distance  of  twelve  miles.     Of  course,  the  animal 
was  in  high  favour  with  us  all. 


fast 
itb 
this 
The 
/res 
1  Pitti 
;  muc 
I  and 
i  this 

■  c:h0S 

;  hotel 
of  hi 
wher 
;  chant 
.  Ther( 
In 
scene 
and  d( 
told  t 
place, 
most 
bad. 
by  the 
groum 
living. 
On 
I  roundt 
glens, 
beauty 
though 
than 
gorge 
cedar, 
swept 
the  tin 
and  ch 
they  w 
them 


WINDSOR. 


239 


missing,  whined 
lad  lost  a  large 
)ther  valuables." 
;ry  heroic,  plead- 
Th  spirits;  there 
';  and  they  were 
test  the  safety  of 
c^ns  who  should 
aid  on  the  search 
earance  about  it,  | 
nd  its  green  mar- 
his,  all  was  wild 
ke  no  impression, 
their  booty,  might  ^ 
force  divided  it- 
the  tracks  to  be 
jtick,  or  otherwise, 
w  the  strength  of 
o  which  our  driver 
lugh  to  let  it  lead, 
black  trunk,  and 
other  pursuers  by 
Hurrah !  the  trunk 
er  or  robbers  had 
jere  proceeding  to 
;  have  been  alarm- 
T  had  not  yet  been 
safe.     It  also  ap- 
id  been  the  chief  I 
his  barking,  given 
n  looking  back  to 
I  the  distance;  and  I 
aimed  his  courage! 
ire  in  the  general 
irward  follow  owl 
)n.     We  could  not 
jnt  till  we  changed! 
course,  the  animal 


The  place  at  which  we  stopped  supplied  us  with  break- 
fast. It  is  sixteen  miles  from  ^  Voany,  and  we  reached 
it  by  six  o'clock ;  so  that  the  night  was  lost  in  running 
this  short  distance,  and  this  was  altogether  unnecessary. 
The  country  began  to  improve  on  our  way  ;  and  the  re- 
freshment of  dressing  and  food  prepared  us  to  enjoy  it. 
Pittsfield  is  a  pleasant  town,  surrounded  by  scenery  of 
much  beauty.  Lebanon  is  remarkable  for  its  springs, 
and  the  Shaker  settlement.  Like  all  the  settlements  of 
this  singular  people  which  I  have  seen,  it  is  admirably 
chosen,  and  as  admirably  cultivated.  The  springs  and 
hotels  attached  to  them  are  raised  midway  on  the  breasts 
of  hills  that  are  swelling  into  mountains ;  and  every- 
where around  the  rides  and  prospects  must  be  most  en- 
chanting. In  this  respect  it  greatly  excels  Saratoga. 
There  was  a  pretty  good  show  of  company. 

In  the  middle  of  the  day  we  got  out  of  this  class  of 

scenery ;  and  travelled  over  the  face  of  hills,  wild,  bleak, 

and  desolate.     We  paused  at  a  house  to  dine,  and  were 

told  that  the  place  was  Windsor.     It  is   a  miserable 

place.     There  are  a  few  sad  houses  on  the  baldest  and 

most  barren  rock.     The  inn  is  bad,  and  the  dinner  was 

;  bad.     And  every  thing  is  made  more  waste  and  desolate, 

;by  the  pri;^cipal  object  in  the  scene  being  a  naked  burial- 

S  ground,  which  told  you  that  the  dead  outnumbered  the 

i  living. 

On  descending  to  lower  ground,  we  were  again  sur- 

i  rounded  with  gushing  streams,  nodding   pines,  lovely 

I  glens,  and  hill-tops.     Over  a  great  part  Oi  ihis  field  of 

[beauty,  the  storm  which  smote  Utica  had  passed;  and, 

though  it  had  travelled  so  far,  had  rather  accumulated 

than  exhausted  its  awful  power.     It  had  passed  down  a 

gorge  in  the  hills    like  a  torrent,  uprooting  pine  and 

cedar,  and  casting  them  about  in  every  direction.     It  had 

swept  over  Cummington  and  Goshen,  laying  prostrate 

the  timber  of  a  whole  farm,  and  unroofing  the  dwellings 

and  churches.     It  had  overtaken  a  father  and  a  child  as 

they  were  descending  a  hill-side  in  their  carriage,  swept 

them  from  the  ground,  and  precipitated  tbem  into  the 


!•> 


240 


AMHERST. 


'   ■      f 


k\ 


.a 


river  sixty  feet  below !     The  father  recovered,  but  he 
lost  his  boy. 

About  seven  in  the  evening  J  reached  Northampton ; 
but  so  unwell  with  the  fever  that  still  hung  on  me,  that 
I  was  compelled,  aftei  writing  a  note  to  Dr.  Penny,  to 
retire.  Contrary  to  my  request,  he  came  to  me  immedi- 
ately,  and  became  at  once  affectionately  concerned  for 
my  welfare.  He  introduced  me  to  the  special  care  of 
the  landlord,  saw  me  provided  with  what  was  needful, 
and  would  not  leave  me  till  he  had  procured  some  sim- 
ples at  the  druggist's  for  my  use. 

What  with  these  precautions,  and  some  sound  rest, 
which  perhaps  I  most  wanted,  I  awoke  in  the  Morning 
much  improved,  and  agreed  to  my  friend's  proposal  to 
transfer  my  home  from  the  inn  to  his  residence.  My 
amended  health  was  the  more  grateful,  as  it  allowed  me 
to  go  with  him  to  Amherst  College.  This  was  the  day 
(the  27th)  of  the  Commencement;  and  a  principal  object 
of  my  last  journey  had  been  lost,  had  I  not  been  able  to 
attend. 

Amherst  College  has  arisen  out  of  the  defection  of 
Cambridge  ;  so  that  the  eruption  of  error  at  one  extremity 
of  the  State,  has  been  the  establishment  of  it  at  the 
other.  The  Commencement  is  what  we  should,  perhaps, 
call  the  Termination,  for  it  is  the  end  of  the  session  ;  it 
is  thus  named,  because  the  collegians  take  their  degrees 
at  this  time,  and  thus  commence  a  new  period  of  literary 
life.  Everywhere  the  Commencements  are  regarded 
as  holydays ;  and  as  such,  they  particularly  harmonize 
with  the  habits  and  tastes  of  the  people.  Tliey  hare  not 
the  vanities  of  fairs,  nor  the  strictness  of  a  religious  ser- 
vice ;  and  they  attract  not  merely  the  religious,  but  the 
people  at  large,  and  thus  extend  to  th'  more  worldly 
portions  of  the  community  a  measure  of  religious  influ- 
ence. 

We  arrived  early  in  the  morning,  but  the  services  had 
made  some  advance,  and  the  church  was  crammed  to 
such  a  degree  as  to  prevent  our  access.  Dr.  Penny,  for 
my  sake,  engaged  the  services  of  some  stewards  oi 


AMHERST. 


241 


ecovered,  but  he 

d  Northampton ; 
hung  on  me,  that 

to  Dr.  Penny,  to 
ne  to  me  immedi- 

ly  concerned  for 
le  special  care  of 
hat  was  needful, 
)cured  some  sim- 


some  sound  rest, 

e  in  the  ntorning 

end's  proposal  to 

residence.     My 

as  it  allowed  me 

This  was  the  day 

a  principal  object 

I  not  been  able  to 

the  defection  of 
>r  at  one  extremity 
neni  of  it  at  the 
^e  should,  perhaps, 
of  the  session  ;  it 
take  their  degrees 
V  period  of  literary 
snts  are  regarded 
cularly  harmonize 
3.  They  have  not 
of  a  religious  ser- 

religious,  but  the 
th'  more  worldly 
of  reUgious  influ- 

t  the  services  had 

was  crammed  to 

i.     Dr.  Penny,  for 

tome  stewards  or 


officers  for  the  day,  and  by  these  means  I  made  my  way 
up  the  aisles,  and  found  myself  comfortably  seated  in  a 
pew,  and  by  the  side  of  my  friend  Dr.  Spring.  I  was 
afterward  obliged  to  take  a  prepared  seat,  with  Mr. 
Malheson,  on  the  platform. 

The  sight  was  an  interesting  one.     The  President, 
Dr.   Humphrey,  was  in  the  pulpit.     A  platform  was 
*  formed  below  and  around  the  pulpit,  on  which  the  Trus- 

tees and  the  English  Deputation  were  accommodated,  a 
I  considerable  space  being  reserved  for  the  use  of  those 

■  who  were  to  deliver  the  addresses.     The  clergy  occu- 

pied the  pews  nearest  the  platform ;   and  beyond  these, 
in  the  area  and  the  galleries,  the  spaces  were  filled  in  by 
)  a  crowd  of  animated  faces,  the  ladies  occupying  the 

sitting,  and  the  men  the  standing  accommodation.     A 
choir  of  considerable  size,  and  ii  ■•omething  of  a  uniform, 
»  occupied  the  centre  of  the  front,  gallery,  to  relieve  the 

exercises  by  suitable  musical  performances. 

Every  student,  as  he  completes  his  terms  with  honour 
to  himself,  is  understood  to  be  entitled  to  exhibit  ^  n  these 
occasions ;  and  it  seldom  happens  that  any  one  desires 
to  be  excused ;  so  that  where  the  college  is  large,  the 
number  yearly  qualified  is  considerable.  There  is  some 
inconvenience  in  making  so  many  addresses  in  a  single 
morning  ;  but,  on  the  whole,  it  is  found  to  have  less  evil 
than  would  attend  any  principle  of  selection.  The 
faculty  know  before  the  length  of  the  addresses,  and 
they  are  mostly  limited  to  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour. 
At  this  time  there  were  twenty-three  engaged  to  make 
orations ;  musical  interludes  occurred  after  every  sixth 
or  seventh  speech ;  and  the  whole  audience  were  fully 
aware  of  the  order  of  the  speakers,  by  a  handbill  dis- 
tributed throughout  the  place. 

It  will  not  be  expected  that  I  should  exactly  report,  or 
rigidly  criticise,  these  juvenile  performances.  It  may 
be  sufficient  to  say,  that  they  were  highly  interesting,  as 
the  indications  of  good  reading,  good  sense,  and  correct 
taste.  They  certainly  must  have  passed  under  a  skilful 
pruning-knife,  or  they  would  have  shown  many  more 

Vol.  I.— L  21 


'/ 


242 


ENTERTAINMENT. 


l\- 


:%•  ' 


; 


juvenilities.  A  very  good  poem  was  delivered ;  one 
address  had  some  admirable  touches  of  true  eloquence 
about  it.  On  one  subject,  Phrenology,  two  students 
acted  the  part  of  appellant  and  respondent  in  clever 
style.  But  especially  it  was  delightful  to  find  in  a  col- 
lege, which  is  not  a  theological  institution,  so  many  in- 
timations of  pious  sentiment  and  correct  rehgious  prin- 
ciple. 

•  A  single  circumstance  deserves  notice.  One  of  the 
graduates,  whose  name  was  down  to  participate  in  the 
exercises,  had  sickened,  and  died.  All  the  students 
wore  crape  on  his  account,  and  you  wondered  what 
notice  would  be  taken  of  it.  Not  any  was  taken  till,  in 
the  course  of  the  service,  they  came  to  his  name.  Then 
there  was  a  pause.  The  people  had  their  attention 
awakened  by  this ;  they  looked  at  the  bill ;  and  they  felt 
its  solemnity.  Still  no  lips  were  opened  to  pronounce 
a  eulogy ;  but  presently  some  plaintive  notes  broke 
from  the  instrumental  music  in  the  choir,  and  a  requiem 
of  Mozart's  was  played  with  solemn  and  touching  slow- 
ness. Not  a  person  but  felt  the  delicacy  of  this  recog- 
nition ;  not  a  person  but  was  affected  by  it. 

The  last  oration  is  pecuUar.  One  of  the  senior 
students  is  appointed  to  offer  congratulatory  or  farewell 
addresses  to  the  persons  present.  He  addressed  the 
President,  then  the  Trustees ;  then  (on  this  occasion) 
the  Deputation  from  England;  then  his  Class-fellows. 
These  acknowledgments  and  greetings,  when  expressing 
the  sentiments  natural  to  the  occasion,  are  appropriate 
and  impressive. 

Previously  to  this  last  oration,  the  President  distributes 
the  diplomas,  repeating  a  short  Latin  form  of  presenta- 
tion; and  the  parties  so  honoured  take  their  seat  in  the 
front  of  the  gallery.  The  whole  is  closed  by  a  short 
address  from  the  President,  and  prayer.  The  engage- 
ments began  at  nine,  and  ceased  about  three  o'clock. 

After  the  service,  we  passed  over  the  green  to  the 
dining-rooms.  About  300  persons  sat  down  to  dinner, 
and  most  of  them  were  clergymen.     It  was  plain,  and 


■r 


IIADLEY. 


243 


ivered ;  one 
le  eloquence 
vo  students 
t  in  clever 
ind  in  a  col- 
30  many  in- 
ligious  prin- 

One  of  the 
;ipate  in  the 
he  students 
dered  what 
taken  till,  in 
ime.  Then 
ir  attention 
ind  they  felt 
3  pronounce 
lotes  broke 
d  a  requiem 
iching  slow- 

this  recog- 

the  senior 
or  farewell 
Iressed  the 
occasion) 
ass-fellows, 
expressing 
appropriate 

distributes 
f  presenta- 

seat  in  the 

by  a  short 
he  engage- 
o'clock, 
een  to  the 
1  to  dinner, 

plain,  and 


as  cold  as  the  weather  would  allow;  good  joints  and 
tarts  were  in  abundance,  but  neither  wine  nor  spirits 
were  to  be  seen.  The  claims  of  nature  were  soon 
answered ;  and,  as  there  was  no  inducement  to  stay 
afterward,  the  company  soon  dispersed.  Shortly  after 
we  had  separated,  one  of  the  brethren  who  dined  with 
us  in  perfect  health,  and  with  whom  I  had  just  shaken 
hands,  was  seized  by  death  while  partaking  of  a  water- 
melon, and  quickly  expired.  "  In  the  midst  of  hfe  we 
are  in  death !"  Phny  Dickinson  was  in  the  prime  of 
life,  and  the  fulness  of  health,  when  he  found  himself  in 
the  arms  of  death  ! 

The  green  which  opened  before  us  on  quitting  the 
dinner-table,  offered  a  lively  and  busy  sight.  There 
were  innumerable  carriages  of  all  descriptions,  which 
had  brought  the  present  visiters  to  the  spot ;  and  num- 
bers of  persons,  who  had  come  rather  in  search  of 
amusement  than  profit.  Yet  there  was  no  sport,  no 
show,  no  merry-making  of  any  kind.  But  there  was, 
as  remarkably  characteristic,  in  the  midst  of  this  bustle, 
a  Yankee  auctioneer,  resolved  to  improve  the  occasion. 
He  was  mounted  in  a  cart,  and  selUng^  oi  trying  to  sell, 
books,  prints,  harness,  and  carriages — the  very  carriage 
he  came  in. 

I  left  early  with  Dr.  Penny  ;  and  most  of  the  company 
had  left  or  were  leaving.  There  was  not  the  least  sign 
of  disorder  nor  of  excess,  either  in  eating  or  drinking. 
He  proposed  to  diversify  the  ride,  by  passing  through 
Hadley  ;  and  it  afforded  me  much  gratification.  Hadley 
is  situated  on  a  loop  of  verdant  land,  formed  by  the 
beautiful  windings  of  the  Connecticut.  It  is  one  of  the 
most  rural  and  patriarchal  of  villages.  Detached  cot- 
tages run  along  the  sides  of  this  green  parterre,  and 
form  a  beautiful  margin  to  the  quiet  river  behind  them. 
The  church  stands  out  in  the  centre  of  the  picture ;  and 
everywhere  the  fine  drooping  elms,  which  abu  ad  in  this 
vicinity,  are  concealing,  revealing,  and  overshadowing 
Ihe  various  objects  that  compose  it.  And  here  is,  chiefly, 
a  veteran  oak,  said  to  bear  on  its  gnarled  sides  a  registry, 

L2 


( .» 


244 


WHALLEY    AND   GOLFE. 


made  by  the  Indians,  of  the 


)f  the 


differ- 


waters 

ent  period-  The  church  is  adequate  to  the  wants  of 
this  people  ;  and  so  happy  is  the  village,  that  there  is  no 
family  that  does  not  use  it. 

Besides  these  objects,  which  immediately  meet  the 
eye,  here  is  shown  a  cellar  in  which  the  regicides, 
Whalley  and  Golfe,  were  concealed  for  many  years.  A 
remarkable  anecdote  is  preserved  of  the  former  ;  and  so 
well  supported  as  to  bo  placed  beyond  distrust.  The 
Indians  had  attacked  a  village  adjacent  to  Hadley  while 
the  people  were  at  church,  and  massacred  most  of  them. 
On  a  Sabbath  day,  while  the  parishioners  of  Hadley 
were  in  like  manner,  assembled  for  worship,  a  report 
sprung  up  in  the  congregation  that  the  Indians  were 
coming.  The  men  were  from  home,  and  without  arms ; 
and  their  little  ones  and  dear  ones  would  be  the  first  to 
feel  the  vengeance  of  the  foe.  The  suddenness  of  the 
report,  and  their  sense  of  defencelessness,  unmanned 
them  ;  and  they  remained  irresolute,  when  to  be  so  was 
sure  destruction. 

At  this  crisis,  a  stranger,  with  a  worn  countenance, 
silver  beard,  hermit's  dress,  and  commanding  aspect, 
appeared  among  them.  He  reproached  them  with  their 
panic  cowardice ;  urged  them  not  to  wait  for  the  enemy ; 
assured  them  that  there  was  time  to  redeem  the  delay ; 
and  called  them  on  to  victory.  As  if  an  angel  spoke, 
they  obeyed ;  as  if  an  angel  led  them,  they  fought. 
Everywhere  the  stranger  was  present,  to  command  and 
to  meet  the  fiercest  onset  of  the  barbarous  foe.  And 
everywhere,  when  he  appeared,  the  enemy  stood  back, 
till  the  struggle  ended  in  decided  triumph.  Relieved 
from  their  conflict  and  their  fears,  every  one  looked 
round  for  their  deliverer ;  but  he  was  not  to  be  found. 
This  deliverer  was  Whalley,  who  had  left  his  cave  to  do 
this  deed,  and  who  returned  to  it  the  instant  it  was  done. 
What  wonder  if  these  villagers,  at  that  distance  of  time, 
and  with  their  rural  and  religious  habits,  believed  that  it 
was  a  supernatural  appearance  sent  for  their  salvation  ] 


NORTHAMPTON. 


245 


iters  at  differ- 
the  wants  of 
at  there  is  no 

;ely  meet  the 
the  regicides, 
,ny  years.  A 
rmer ;  and  so 
iistrust.  The 
Hadley  while 
most  of  them. 
rs  of  Hadley 
ship,  a  report 
Indians  were 
without  arms ; 
be  the  first  to 
enness  of  the 
ss,  unmanned 
to  be  so  was 

countenance, 
nding  aspect, 
lem  with  their 
or  the  enemy ; 
;m  the  delay ; 

angel  spoke, 

they  fought, 
command  and 
us  foe.  And 
ly  stood  back, 
>h.  Relieved 
^  one  looked 
;  to  be  found, 
lis  cave  to  do 

it  was  done, 
ance  of  time, 
slieved  that  it 

iir  salvation] 


LETTER  XXII. 

Mv  DEAR  Friend, 

Mr.  Mathgson  made  his  way  from  Amherst  on  to 
Meredith ;  but,  as  it  was  my  first  visit,  I  determined  to 
stay  over  the  Sabbath  at  Northampton.  It  seemed, 
beyond  most  other  places,  to  afford  the  best  field  for  ob- 
servation ;  and  I  was  encouraged  to  expect  every  assist- 
ance in  my  inquiries  from  the  pastors  here,  in  conjunction 
with  Dr.  Humphrey.  My  state  of  health,  indeed,  would 
have  almost  made  this  course  necessary ;  though  I  had 
sensibly  reached  a  climate  more  genial  to  me.  The 
heat,  too,  was  greatly  abated ;  and  tho  weather  was 
very  like  our  fine  September  seasons. 

This  beautiful  town  has  a  population  of  about  3,000, 
and  in  the  township,  a  square  of  six  miles,  there  are 
about  3,600.  It  has  a  main  street,  short,  not  too  regu- 
lar ;  ornamented  by  three  churches  and  a  court-house ; 
running  down  a  slope  bounded  by  sylvan  cottages,  and 
each  way  looking  into  the  country.  The  other  streets, 
or  verdant  lanes,  follow  the  ancient  cow-walks,  and 
wind  in  graceful  lines  about  the  foot  and  the  breast  of 
the  hills  on  which  the  town  is  planted.  On  these  lines 
appear,  at  various  elevations,  detached  cottages,  of  con- 
siderable dimensions  and  in  good  taste.  They  are  of 
wood,  indeed,  but  in  nice  preservation;  and,  with  their 
white  fronts,  Venetian  blinds,  piazzas,  and  porticoes, 
have  the  air  of  so  many  galleries  of  Italian  villas.  But 
the  great  beauty  of  these  lanes  and  villas,  is  the  wood 
scenery  which  is  mixed  with  it  and  surmounts  it ;  and 
especially  the  abundance  of  the  Witch-elm,  which  is  of 
prodigious  size,  and  weeps  like  a  willow,  and  is  the 
image  of  what  is  most  strong,  most  graceful.  From  the 
more  elevated  villas,  you  look  over  the  clustering  dwel- 
lings below  you,  to  one  of  the  most  fertile  of  plains, 

21* 


246 


NORTHAMPTON. 


,1^      \ 


covered  with  maize,  bruom-corn,  and  grcon  pasturage. 
Hero  the  Connecticut,  whicli  is  sometimes  seen  dashing 
among  the  falls,  winds  its  way  so  peacefully  along,  as 
to  treble  its  distance  by  its  length,  as  if  charmed  by  the 
objects  it  reflected.  And  beyond  this  rise  the  mount- 
ains, which  bound  the  view,  standing  up  before  you  in 
decided  forms,  and  clothed  with  the  primitive  forest,  or 
running  oif  to  the  horizon,  and  mingUng  their  hues  with 
the  skies. 

I  was  really  charmed  with  this  place ;  the  more  so, 
as  Northampton,  above  all  other  places,  had  been  most 
familiarized  to  my  imagination.  It  was  a  pleasure  to 
find  the  suggestions  of  the  mind  exceeded,  as  they  un- 
doubtedly were,  in  this  instance.  Every  thing  speaks 
of  peace,  of  comfort,  of  retirement ;  of  retirement  re- 
lieved and  endeared  by  society.  The  moral  aspects, 
like  those  of  nature,  are  pleasant  and  promising.  The 
pleasure  you  receive  is  not,  indeed,  of  that  sudden  and 
stimulating  kind  which  must  be  temporary  because  it  is 
violent ;  it  is  that  pleasure  which  may  sit  with  you  in 
the  house,  attend  you  on  the  wayside,  retire  with  you  at 
night,  rise  with  you  in  the  morning,  and  live  with  you 
ever,  refreshing  all  things  where  it  comes.  I  have  seen 
no  place  in  this  country  at  which  I  would  so  willingly 
reside ! 

I  made  a  visit,  while  here,  to  Mount  Holyoke,  in  com- 
pany with  my  friend  Mr.  Stoddard.  This  spot  has  great 
fame,  and  is  more  frequented  by  visiters  than  any  other 
in  New-England,  or  perhaps  in  the  Union.  It  is  thought 
to  be  the  very  best  that  is  to  be  seen  ;  but  I  have  many 
exceptions  to  make  against  that  opinion.  Let  us,  how- 
ever, glance  at  it.  We  ascended  the  hill,  full  two  thirds 
of  its  height,  with  our  gig,  and  then,  securing  our  horse, 
proceeded  to  complete  the  ascent  on  foot.  It  is  some- 
what precipitous ;  but  the  way  is  made  easy  by  good 
foothold. 

When  you  have  attained  the  right  point  of  sight,  you 
will  see  the  river,  of  which  before  you  had  only  a  glance, 
stretching  itself  away  some  thirty  miles,  still  doubling 


il      I 


HOLYOKE. 


247 


rcon  pasturage, 
es  seen  dashing 
cfuUy  along,  as 
charmed  by  the 
rise  the  mount- 
>  before  you  in 
nitive  forest,  or 
their  hues  with 

I ;  the  more  so, 
had  been  most 
is  a  pleasure  to 
ied,  as  they  un- 
;ry  thing  speaks 
f  retirement  re- 
moral  aspects, 
tromising.  The 
that  sudden  and 
iry  because  it  is 
sit  with  you  in 
tire  with  you  at 
1  live  with  you 
I  have  seen 
luld  so  willingly 

[olyoke,  in  com- 
spot  has  great 
than  any  other 
It  is  thought 

|ut  I  have  many 
Let  us,  how- 
full  two  thirds 

iring  our  horse, 

It.  It  is  uome- 
easy  by  good 

of  sight,  you 
only  a  glance, 
still  doubling 


itself,  so  as  frequently  to  look  as  two;  and  having  on  its 
^rlassy  bosom  a  number  of  Mmall  vessels,  with  their  broad 
white  sails  covetous  of  the  breeze.  On  either  side  is 
sjjread  the  finest  and  most  considerable  valley  of  New- 
Kn^land,  called  after  the  name  of  the  river  which  waters 
it,  and  running  away  into  other  valleys,  which  are  grad- 
ually lost  to  sight.  Tliose  very  distant  hills  which  bound 
the  view  in  the  line  of  the  river,  and  are  almost  hidden 
in  the  gray  mist,  are  said  to  be  the  rocks  of  New-Haven, 
a  distance  of  seventy  miles.  On  looking  to  y  ur  left, 
you  are  surprised  to  see  the  hills  and  mountains  stand 
out  in  such  bold  and  broken  forms,  by  their  proximit}*^, 
size,  and  dark  foliage,  giving  great  force  to  the  pi^iure  ; 
wiiile  behind  them  the  ground  shoots  away  in  hill  and 
dule,  with  Hadley  just  under  you,  and  Amherst  smiling 
through  the  sun  in  the  distance.  On  your  right,  again, 
is  Northampton,  not  robbed  of  its  beauty,  but  reduced  in 
prominence,  so  as  to  harmonize  with  the  whole.  You 
now  look  over  its  smaller  hills  into  other  valleys,  and  the 
more  remote  hills  which  form  the  boundaries  of  the  State. 
Vou  have  now  an  extensive  and  varied  scene  before  and 
around  you.  Its  great  charm — and  for  this  country  its 
great  peculiarity — is,  that  it  is  raised  to  such  a  degree 
of  cultivation.  The  extensive  clearances  and  remaining 
woods  give  to  it  the  animation  of  light  and  shadow ;  and 
the  number  of  towns  and  villages  (not  less  than  thirty) 
wliich  are  half  revealed  to  you  on  its  lovely  surface, 
assure  you  of  human  life  and  quiet  enjoyment,  and 
awaken  all  the  human  sympathies.  If  this  'f  -sOt  the 
finest  thing  in  the  States,  it  has  enough  to  commend  it  to 
admiration  and  praise.  It  resembles,  more  than  most 
scenes,  some  of  our  finest  valley  pictures. 

There  is  a  shed  built  here  for  the  ace  )mmodation  of 
visiters,  opening  both  ways  on  the  panoramic  scenes. 
The  good  people  should  do  more.  They  should  erect  a 
small  tower,  only  sufficiently  high  to  allow  the  spectator 
to  take  in  the  whole  without  obstruction  from  the  trees. 
The  spot  is  worthy  of  it ;  it  would  cost  little  ;  and  would 


248 


RATTLESNAKE. 


■■,»! 


t  I 


I 


bring  them  much  honour.     The  present  rickety  shed  is 
a  hinderance,  not  a  help. 

By-the-by,  I  had  at  this  shed  a  sight  the  reverse  of 
that  which  I  have  described.  The  person  who  stays  here 
to  receive  visiters  had  taken  a  rattlesnake  on  the  hill- 
side, and  he  added  to  his  gains  by  showing  it.  It  was 
in  a  large  rough  box ;  he  threw  the  lid  backward  against 
the  wall,  and  the  reptile  appeared  folded  up,  and  slowly 
raising  its  head,  as  if  from  sleep.  It  was  large,  from 
three  to  four  feet  long,  and  very  handsomely  marked. 
Its  head  and  eye  were  fearful.  The  man  provoked  it 
with  a  stick.  It  rose  nearer  to  the  head  of  the  box; 
light  glared  in  its  projecting  eyes  ;  and  it  used  its  rattle 
fiercely  and  repeatedly.  There  was  nothing  between  it 
and  us.  I  never  expected  to  be  so  near  to  so  deadly  a 
creature,  unconfined,  and  chafed,  and  provoked,  without 
fear. 

Northampton  is  chiefly  known  and  endeared  to  us  by 
the  name  of  Edwards  ;  and  I  was  very  desirous  to  learn 
what  I  could  of  this  admirable  man,  and  of  the  effects  of 
his  opinions  and  labours.  I  visited  the  spot  where  he 
lived  ;  but  the  house  is  demoUshed.  If  any  thing  could 
incline  one  to  leniency  for  such  an  offence ,  it  is  that  a 
very  tasteful  cottage  occupies  its  place.  There  are, 
however,  in  the  front  of  the  grass-plot,  two  trees  which 
are  said  to  have  been  planted  by  his  hand.  They  belong 
to  the  class  I  have  already  noticed ;  they  are  of  majestic 
growth,  and  droop  beautifully — among  the  noblest  of 
thjir  kind.  They  are  fine  living  memorials  of  the  man,  | 
and  promise  to  live  for  ages  to  come. 

Nothing,  perhaps,  has  perplexed  us  more  in  the  life  I 
of  Edwards,  than  the  circumstance  of  his  sudden  and  | 
painful  separation  from  his  church  here,  after  his  remark- 
able usefulness  among  them.  It  has  contributed  to  shake  I 
our  confidence  in  the  results  of  the  previous  revivals ;  | 
and  mostly  the  people  have  been  exposed  to  severe  rep« 
rehension.  Without  intending  to  justfy  or  condemn] 
either  party,  the  following  remarks  may  assist  to  an  I 
amended  judgment  of  the  case. 


JONATHAN   EDWARDS. 


249 


nt  rickety  shed  is 


1.  Edwards  asked  too  much  at  once.     The  people 

lad  been  educated  in  different  views  on  the  subject  of 

•ommunion ;  and  to  have  enforced  his   stricter  terms, 

vould  have  affected  them  as  citizens,  as  well  as  Chris- 

ians.     The  law  of  the  State  then  forbade  any  man  to 

ise  his  rights  in  the  commonwealth,  unless  he  was  in 

|;ommunion  with  a  church.     Those  who  would  have  been 

least  concerned  about  terms  of  communion,  had  they 

louched  only  religious  privileges,  were  most  excited  by 

|he  effect  they  had  on  those  that  were  civil  and  social. 

2.  While  the  more  worldly  portion  of  the  parishioners 
ere  thus  suddenly  exasperated  at  the  prospect  of  degra- 
ation  in  society,  the  truly  pious  people  were  not  pre- 
ared  to  uphold,  zealously,  the  stricter  plans  of  their  min- 
ster. The  subject  was  new  to  them  ;  the  system  in 
ivhich  Ihey  had  been  educated,  and  which  had  the  sanc- 
lion  of  Stoddard,  was  the  system  on  which  they  looked 
ivith  partiality.  Besides  this,  their  pastor,  while  living 
mong  them,  was,  to  their  common  minds,  only  a  common 

an.  As  great  unpleasantness  had  arisen,  a  change 
light  be  good  for  both  parties ;  and  they  expected  if  he 
hould  leave,  they  should  still  find  as  suitable  a  minister. 

3dly.  Then,  it  must  be  admitted,  that  the  manners  of 
dwards  were  neither  social  nor  prudent.  He  was  a 
ecluse  and  a  student,  labouring  for  the  church  universal 
nd  generations  to  come  ;  this  his  people  did  not  appre- 
late.  And  he  certainly  was  not  prudent  in  the  use  of 
inisterial  authority.  It  is  remarkable,  too,  as  an  anom- 
ly,  that  while  his  opinions  were  in  advance  of  his 
IS,  his  practice  was  often  behind  them.  He  adopted 
ethods  of  public  rebuke  and  humiliation  which  were 
elting  obsolete ;  and  inspired  the  people  with  fear,  lest, 
f  not  themselves,  their  friends  and  children,  should  be 
xposed  to  such  odious  disciphne. 
Those  who  know  something  of  human  nature  may 
asily  comprehend  how  fewer  and  lighter  circumstances 
ay  lead  to  a  crisis,  such  as  we  have  often  deplored  in 
[the  life  of  Edwards ;  and  when  the  case  is  really  seen, 
|iiot  as  we  now  are  accustomed  to  look  at  it,  but  as  tho 

L3 


250 


SOLOMON    STODDARD. 


,} 


acting  parties  saw  it  at  the  time,  it  will  appear  that  it[ 
might  happen  without  great  blame  to  either. 

The  body  of  the  professing  people  here  have  been  at- 
tached, from  the  earliest  settlement,  not  only  to  orthodox 
sentiment,  but  to  true  piety.  A  pleasing  instance  of  this 
occurs  in  relation  to  the  first  pastor,  Solomon  Stoddard. 
He  was  engaged  on  an  emergency  for  this  people,  when 
at  Boston,  and  about  to  sail  for  Scotland.  The  good 
people,  however,  soon  suffered  disappointment,  for  hel 
gave  no  indications  of  a  renewed  and  serious  mind.  In 
this  difficulty  their  resource  was  prayer.  They  agreed 
to  set  apart  a  day  for  special  fasting  and  prayer,  in  refer- 
ence to  their  pastor.  Many  of  the  persons,  in  meeting] 
for  this  purpose,  passed,  necessarily,  the  door  of  the  min 
ist.er.  Mr.  Stoddard  hailed  a  plain  man  whom  he  knew,! 
and  addressed  him :  "  What  is  all  this  ?  What  is  doing] 
to-day  ■?"  The  reply  was,  "  The  people,  sir,  are  all  meet- 
ing to  pray  for  your  conversion."  It  sunk  into  his  hean, 
He  is  said  to  have  exclaimed  to  himself,  •'  Then  it  is] 
time  I  prayed  for  myself !"  He  was  not  seen  that  day. 
He  was  seeking  in  solitude  what  they  were  asking  in] 
company ;  and  "  while  they  were  yet  speaking,"  they] 
were  heard  and  answered.  The  pastor  gave  unqueS' 
tionable  evidence  of  the  change ;  he  laboured  among  a] 
beloved  and  devoted  people  for  nearly  half  a  century] 
and  was  for  that  period  deservedly  ranked  with  the  most 
useful  and  able  ministers  of  the  New  Testament. 

The  influence  of  his  labours,  and  those  of  Presideni 
Edwards,  remains  visibly  and  most  happily  over  this  peO' 
pie.  The  pious  persons  have  much  gravity  and  steadi- 
ness of  character ;  they  incline,  after  their  great  teacher, 
to  metaphysical  distinctions ;  require  to  be  addressed] 
through  the  understanding,  and  look  vigilantly  to  theirj 
motives  of  action. 

Those  who  cannot  venture  on  the  ground  of  nice  spec- 
ulation, express  the  same  fixedness  of  mind,  in  an  at- 
tachment to  the  simple  elements  of  religion,  and  to  the 
means  of  religious  worship.  When,  as  yet,  no  taste  may 
be  awakened  towards  these  objects,  the  sense  of  duty 


0. 


REGARD   TO   WORSHIP. 


251 


ivill  appear  that  itl  i^^  ^^ie  force  of  habit  will  constrain  conformity.     Two 
either.  |  ij,  ji^^gg  instances  are  so  characteristic,  they  must  not  be 

here  have  been  at-l  Ljjtted. 

iOt  only  to  o^^^^odoxl  J  j^j^  -w.^  the  former  pastor,  had  been  incensed  by  his 
sing  instance  of^thbygjgjjjjQyj.>g  gggse  straying  into  his  garden.     He  threat- 

ed  that  if  they  should  do  so  he  would  kill  them  ;  and 

one  occasion,  in  a  moment  of  vexation,  he  did  kill  one 

them.     Now  it  happened  that  the  geese  were  the  prop- 

ty  of  a  widow,  and  were  under  the  care  of  her  daugh- 

^r  Mary ;  and  the  one  killed  was  a  pet  of  Mary's.     She 

lyer.     They  agreedB^g  ^^^  g^g^  ^^  ^^^^^^  ^^^  mischief ;  and,  full  of  distress, 

and  prayer,  in  refer-^g  ^^^  within,  exclaiming,  "  O,  mother,  will  you  think 

Mr.  W.  has  killed  the  goose  !" — "  Killed  the  goose, 

child !"  cried  the  astonished  mother.     "  Yes,  mother; 

I  think  I  shall  never  be  able  to  go  to  church  to  hear 

again  !"     This  allusion  to  church  restored  the  parent 

m  present  anger.     "  Mary  !"  she  said,  "  never  speak 

h  a  word  as  that,  my  child  !" — "  Well,  then,  mother," 

repUed,  checking  herself,  "  I  think  I  shall  never  be 


Solomon  Stoddard. J 
r  this  people,  wheni 
otland.  The  goodl 
ippointment,  for  hel 
1  serious  mind.     Inl 


persons,  in  meetingl 
the  door  of  the  min-f 
man  whom  he  knew,! 
lis  1  What  is  doingl 
pie,  sir,  are  all  meet-[ 
t  sunk  into  his  heart! 
imself,  "  Then  it  isl 


s  not  seen  that  dayMg  ^^  g^  without  thinking  of  my  goose  !" 


hey  were  asking 
yet  speaking,"  they] 
)astor  gave  unques-l 
5  laboured  among  al 
arly  half  a  century; 
anked  with  the  mosi 
Testament, 
those  of  President 
appily  over  this  peo- 
gravity  and  steadi- 
their  great  teacher, 
e  to  be  addressedl 
vigilantly  to  theii| 

rround  of  nice  spec-' 

of  mind,  in  an  at- 

religion,  and  to  thd 

|as  yet,  no  taste  may 

the  sense  of  duty' 


imong  the  attendants  at  church  is  a  person  who  in- 
Iges  in  intemperate  habits.     The  ministry  of  Dr.  Penny 
Is  and  confounds  him  ;  yet  he  attends.     He  told  him 
[t  he  would  give  him  a  couple  of  thousand  dollars  if 
[would  leave  the  town,  for  he  thought  he  should  shoot 
some  day.     Still  this  man  never  thinks  of  leaving 
|irch,  as  a  remedy  which  he  has  in  his  own  hands  ! 
)ne  of  the  parishioners,  on  getting  married,  and  refer- 
to  his  conduct  in  domestic  life,  remarked  to  his  pas- 
with  complacency,  that  he  had  set  up  family  prayer, 
jamily  prayer  !"  said  the  minister,  "  but  you  swear 
1,  don't  you  1" — "  Well,  but  you  know,"  he  replied, 
16  must  have  family  prayer.     Of  the  two,  I  had  rather 
up  swearing  than  family  prayer."     Habit  and  ex- 
3le  had  taught  him  to  look  on  it  as  a  part  of  the  fur- 
ore of  domestic  hfe ! 

Phe  more  remote  influence  is  striking  and  beneficial. 

ere  are  very  few  famiUes  in  the  whole  township  with- 

domestic  worship ;  there  are  not  more  than  three 


252 


YOUNG    PARTY. 


Hi 


*j  i 


!'■   f 


!-■     I 


families  unconnected  with  a  place  of  worship;  t^^.'e  an 
not  half  a  dozen  persons  given  to  intoxication.  Ther| 
is  no  poverty  ;  there  are  no  criminals ;  the  jail  is  ofte, 
empty  for  three  months  together ;  and  the  judge  passe 
o-.i  his  way,  having  no  dehvery  to  make.  A  lady's  ve 
was  found  lately  on  the  high  road.  It  was  hung  on  tfc 
hedge  by  the  wayside ;  it  remained  there  all  day,  an: 
in  fact,  till  the  owner  came  and  claimed  it. 

Their  morality  has  yet  a  higher  complexion.  ' 
small  evidence  is  given  of  this  in  their  treatment  of  t 
ministers  of  the  mother  church.  They  agree  to  thi 
salary  in  common  hall.  Dr.  Penny's,  as  the  acti 
pastor,  passes  as  a  matter  of  course.  But  Mr.  Williai 
has  resigned  his  charge,  and  is  wholly  superannuate! 
Yet  they  do  not  say  of  him,  He  is  a  withered  tree !  .A 
they  agree,  as  freely  and  without  remark,  to  the  sal; 
he  has  always  enjoyed.  This  I  think  noble,  and  the  di 
icacy  admirable.  Yet  these  people  are  a  plain  peop! 
who  shall  say  they  are  not  refined  and  elevated  1 

I   embraced  readily  all  opportunities  of  intercou 
with  this  excellent  people,  and  the  views  they  gave 
of  their  social  and  doi:;   Uic  habitudes  v/ere  very  grate! 
The  society  is  somewhat  more  mixed  than  it  might 
found  in  most  towns  of  its  size  ;  as,  from  its  reputa! 
for  comfort  and  beauty,  many  families  in  easy  circi 
stances  have  retired  hither.     I  attended  with  my  frii 
Dr.  Penny,  on  one  occasion,  a  party  of  considerable  s 
We  were  introduced  to  a  pretty  suite  of  rooms,  in 
of  the  cottages  on  the  hillside  which  I  have  noticj 
There  were  from  fifty  to  sixty  persons  present ;  moi 
young  persons,  and  all  in  a  state  of  Christian  commui 
The  intercourse  was  unconstramed  and  cheerful 
manners  amiable,  without  reserve  and  without  assi 
lion ;  the  tout  ensemble  equal  to  any  thing  of  its  kini 
our  own  land. 

I  had  good  opportunities  of  conversing  with  the  f 
persons,  and  especially  those  who  had  recent'  joined 
church.  I  found  them  intelligent,  well-taught,  affi 
benevolent,   and  pious.     Dr.  Penny  collected  sevl 


wit 
the 
20( 
in  s 
dre! 
cloj 
pra] 
sup 
the 
to  v 
C 
ing 
the 
chu: 
to  £ 
mig 
wer 
of 
thro 
ing. 
L 
an  c 
will 
ent. 
reac 


SABBATH    DAY. 


253 


young  female  friends  around  me,  and  we  got  into  full 
conversation.  He  called  them  his  children ;  and  looking 
on  them  with  pastoral  complacency,  wanted  to  know  if 
I  could  equal  them  from  among  my  English  circleSi 
This  was  a  challenge  playfully  given ;  my  looks  told  him, 
if  they  were  true  to  me,  that  I  did  not  shrink  from  it. 
But  I  have  seldom  been  in  so  engaging  a  circle.  You 
must  not  accuse  me  of  national  partiality,  if  I  say,  I  felt 
it  to  be  unusually  English.  The  open  heart,  the  win- 
ning smile,  the  bright  intelligence,  the  simple  white 
dresses,  and  the  fresh  complexion,  which  is  less  common 
here,  all  reminded  me  of  some  of  our  sweetest  youthful 
circles  at  horae. 

I  had  an  opportunity  of  attending  a  prayer-meeting 
with  this  people.  It  was  on  the  evening,  and  held  in 
the  court-house.  There  were,  I  should  suppose,  about 
200  present.  Dr.  Penny  presided.  It  was  conducted 
in  a  similar  manner  to  our  own,  except  that  the  short  ad- 
dress was  given  at  the  commencement  instead  of  the 
close,  and  in  this  instance,  formed  a  sort  of  guide  to  the 
prayers.  Two  of  the  brethren  were  called  on  to  offer 
supplications.  They  did  so  in  an  edifying  manner ;  and 
the  people  participated,  as  those  who  were  accustomed 
to  value  the  exercise. 

On  the  Sabbaih  I  had  engaged  to  preach  in  the  even* 
ing  ;  but  had  reserved  the  other  portions  of  the  day  for 
the  piivilege  of  hearing.  I  attended  at  the  mother 
church  in  the  morning.  It  is  larger  than  most,  and  equal 
to  any  I  have  seen.  It  will  seat  1,600  persons,  and 
might  be  made  to  accommodate  many  more.  There 
were  perhaps  1,400  assembled.  I  sat  by  an  old  standard 
of  the  place,  and  sang  cut  of  a  book  that  had  passed 
through  three  generations.  The  services  were  interest- 
ing.    The  sermon,  on  this  occasion,  was  read. 

In  the  afternoon  I  worshipped  at  the  Edwards  Church, 
an  offshoot  from  this,  and  only  about  two  years  old.  It 
will  seat  about  800  people,  and  about  300  were  now  pres- 
ent. Mr.  Todd,  the  excellent  pastor,  officiated.  He 
read  his  sermon  ;  and  all  the  services  were  well  sustain* 

S3 


C*'--.] 


4 


254 


BURIAL-GROUND. 


if 


ed.  Both  himself  and  Dr.  Penrty  are  recently  settled 
here.  They  are  different  men  ;  but  they  understand  each 
other,  and  act  in  perfect  accordarice.  In  the  first  separ- 
ation of  the  younger  church,  there  v  a.«  sonno  fenlio^  to 
allay.  Had  they  meanly  attemjtod  to  rromrfe  thf it  in- 
dividual importance  by  increasing  il,  it  wouM  iiave 
sown  iliscord  in  both  communities  ,  but  their  determined 
co-operai.ion  has  annihilated  the  jealousies  which  were 
contingent  on  the  separation,  and  though  meeting  on  dif* 
ferent  spots,  they  are  truly  one  community. 

Nothing  vas  more  btriking  to  a  stranger  thav»  the  great 
punctuality  in  attending  the  (all  of  worsh  >  I  was  pre- 
pared to  see  them  go,  but  not  as  tli:-y  did.  While  the 
bell  i?  ringing,  the  people  pass  along  the  streets  like 
a  stream  ;  when  it  has  ceased,  the  town  looks  like  a  de- 
seised  village.  In  the  morning  our  watches  deceived  us, 
and  Dr.  Penny  and  myself  happened  to  be  a  trifle  too 
late.  I  saw  nobody  on  the  way — and  nobody  entering — 
I  feared  we  should  have  a  bod  attendance.  The  fact 
was,  the  church  was  full.  Scarcely  anybody  came  in 
after  we  had  entered. 

In  the  evening  I  was  to  preach  to  the  joint  congrega- 
tions. I  walked  out  to  the  burial-ground,  which  had  be- 
come a  favourite  resort  to  me  as  a  place  of  study.  It  is 
very  attractive.  For  pious  remains  and  memorials  it  is 
the  Bunhill  Fields  of  Northampton ;  and  m  every  thing 
else  it  has  the  advantage.  Its  size  is  considerable,  and 
it  has  received  additions  lately.  The  ground  awells 
pleasantly  ;  it  is  not  neglected,  nor  is  it  exactly  kept,  so 
that  it  has  an  air  of  freedom  and  negligence  not  unbe- 
coming. It  is  near  the  town,  so  that  the  dead  are  not 
forgotten ;  and  it  is  out  of  the  town,  so  that  it  is  not 
liable  to  disturbance.  The  aspect  is  serious  and  solitary, 
but  not  depressing ;  the  earUest  and  latest  lights  of  the 
summer  day  glance  sweetly  over  it. 

The  setting  sun  found  me  pacing  alone  its  verdant  and 
unfrequented  paths.  There  were  no  recent  interments 
to  give  you  distress  ;  and  the  white  marble  slabs  spoke 
of  piety,  hope,  and  endless  life.     Here  and  there,  a» 


h::;H 


BRAINERD  S   TOMB. 


255 


recently  settled 
.indcrstand  each 

the  first  separ" 
jonio  feoHvii?  to 
rororte  tUtir  in- 
it  woul  I  i«ave 
their  determined 
ies  which  'verc 

meeting  on  dif- 
ity. 

er  thcvi  the  great 
h  ,,  1  waspre- 
did.  While  the 
the  streets  like 
I  looks  hke  a  de- 
;hes  deceived  us, 
»  be  a  trifle  too 
abody  entering — 
ance.  The  fact 
nybody  came  in 


3  joint  congrega- 
id,  which  had  be- 
5  of  study.     It  is 
1  memorials  it  is 
;d  in  every  thing 
considerable,  and 
e  ground  swells 
exactly  kept,  so 
igence  not  unbe- 
;he  dead  are  not 
so  that  it  is  not 
■ious  and  solitary, 
test  lights  of  the 

ne  its  verdant  and 
ecent  interments 
irble  slabs  spoke 
sre  and  there,  as 


guardian  of  the  spot,  stood  the  aged  elm-tree,  casting 
silently  its  long  shadows  over  the  silent  graves  ;  and 
everywhere  the  grass  had  tufted  itself  around  them, 
while  Aaron's  rod,  that  buddeth,  with  its  profusion  of 
yellow  blossoms,  waved  gently  over  them.  It  was  a 
delightful  retirement.  Not  a  creature  was  to  be  seen, 
not  a  sound  to  be  heaid,  except  the  distant  lowing  of  the 
domestic  cow.  Nothing  moved  except  myself,  and  a 
few  birds  which  were  flitting  about,  with  no  song,  but  a 
plaintive  note,  as  if  lamenting  a  hand  that  fed  them,  but 
feeds  them  no  more. 

Here  I  walked  till  I  was  weary,  and  then  I  rested  on 
the  tomb  of  Brainerd,  desirous  in  the  recollection  of  him 
to  find  an  improved  state  of  mind  for  my  own  duties. 

I  passed  from  the  ground  to  the  church.  It  was  quite 
full,  being  a  contribution  not  only  from  four  joint  churches, 
but  from  the  Episcopalian  and  Unitarian  also.  My  ser- 
vices were  kindly  received. 

Before  my  arrival  at  this  place,  I  had  learned  from  Mr. 
Todd  that  there  had  been  a  considerable  revival  during 
the  last  winter  in  the  town,  and  in  proportion  as  by  knowl- 
edge I  acquired  confidence  in  the  excellent  pastors,  I  was 
anxious  to  possess  myself  of  exact  information  on  the 
subject.  I  had  lengthened  conversations  with  them,  and 
with  Mr.  Solomon  Stoddard,  the  descendant  of  the  pastor 
of  that  name,  for  this  purpose.  The  latter  gentleman, 
with  the  sanction  of  the  ministers,  has  been  kind  enough 
to  supply  me  with  the  substance  of  these  communications ; 
and  as  it  will  doubtless  be  a  most  acceptable  document 
to  you  on  every  account,  I  shall  insert  the  whole  of  it  as 
the  summary  of  what  is  most  important,  in  leaving  this 
interesting  place  and  people. 

"  Northampton,  in  Massachusetts,  on  Connecticut  river, 
is  a  township  about  six  miles  square,  and  in  1830  con- 
tained 3,G00  inhabitants.  Of  these  probably  four  fifths 
hve  near  the  centre,  constituting  the  village  ;  the  re- 
mainder reside  in  dififerant  and  distant  parts  of  the  town, 
in  small  settlements.     A  Congregational  Church  was  or- 


256 


ACCOUNT    OP   REVIVAL. 


H 


i  I' 


ganized  hero  in  1661,  and  till  1824  it  continued  the  only 
church  in  the  town,  the  people  all  worshipping  in  one 
meeting-house.  Its  second  and  third  ministers  were 
Solomon  Stoddard  and  Jonathan  Edwards,  the  former 
for  fjfty-seven,  the  latter  for  twenty-three  years.  About 
ten  years  ago  a  small  Unitarian  society  was  formed,  who 
erected  for  themselves  a  house  of  worship.  Since,  an 
Episcopal  and  a  Baptist  meeting-house  have  been  erect- 
ed, but  very  few  of  those  denominations  are  resident  here. 
Probably  four  fifths  of  the  whole  population  remain  or- 
thodox Congregctionalists. 

"  The  church,  since  its  organization,  has  been  visited, 
in  not  less  than  \wenty  instances,  with  the  special  effu- 
eions  of  the  Spirit  oi  Cod.  Of  tho^'o,  five  occurred  under 
the  ministry  of  Stoddard,  and  two  very  remarkable  ones 
under  that  of  Edwards,  of  which  he  published  a  detailed 
account.  Much,  doubtless,  of  the  prosperity  of  this 
church,  even  till  now,  is,  under  God,  to  be  attributed  to 
the  teaching,  example,  and  prayers  of  that  distinguished  j 
man.  He  was  dismissed  in  1750,  and  from  that  time 
revivals  have  occurred,  at  intervals  of  from  three  to  ten 
years.  Those  in  1819,  1826,  and  1831,  were  especially 
powerful,  and  the  results  were  the  accession  of  mere  than 
500  members  to  the  church. 

"A  very  large  meeting-house  was  erected  in  1812, 
but  two  years  since  it  became  evident  that  the  congrega- 
tion was  too  numerous  for  convenicice,  and  for  the  labour 
of  one  pastor.     In  consequence,  a  voluntary  colony  was 
formed  to  constitute  another  church,  which,  in  memory  l 
of  Edwards,  was  called  the  Edwards  Church.      It  al  | 
first   contained   about  100  members,  and   in  January, 
1833,  the  Rev.  John  Todd  was  installed  its  pastor.     A I 
place  of  worship  was  built  the  same  year,  and  dedicated 
December  the  25th.     In  June,  1833,  the  Rev.  Joseph 
Penny  was  installed  over  the  First  (old)  Church,  which 
had  been  more  than  a  year  without  a  minister. 

"  At  the  close  of  the  year  the  state  of  religion  was  low,  I 
religious  meetings  were  thinly  attended,  and  great  apathy 
preva,jled.     The  week  after  the  dedication  of  the  Ed- 


I      ' 


I  * 


ACCOUNT   OP   REVIVAL. 


257 


ontinued  the  only 
rshipping  in  one 

ministers  were 
rards,  the  former 
Be  years.     About 

was  formed,  who 
rship.     Since,  an 

have  been  erect- 
are  resident  here, 
ilation  remain  or- 

has  been  visited, 
li  the  special  effu- 
ive  occurred  under 
f  remarkable  ones 
iblished  a  detailed 
prosperity  of  this 
to  be  attributed  to 

that  distinguished 
nd  from  that  time 

from  three  to  ten 

1,  were  especially 
38sion  of  mc  re  than 

erected  in  1812, 
that  the  congrega- 
,  and  for  the  labour 
untary  colony  was 
which,  in  memory 
Is  Church.      It  at 

and  in  January, 
led  its  pastor.  A 
^ear,  and  dedicated 
,  the  Rev.  Joseph 
)ld)  Church,  which  | 
minister. 
»f  religion  was  low,  I 
d,  and  great  apathy 
ication  of  the  Ed- 


wards Church,  a  committee  was  appointed  by  its  pastor 
and  brethren,  to  go,  two  and  two,  and  visit  all  the  mem- 
bers of  that  church,  to  excite  them  to  activity  in  their 
Master's  service,  and  to  fervent  prayer  for  his  presence 
and  blessing.  The  effects  were  ajyarently  good,  con- 
siderable feeling  was  discovered  or  elicited,  and  a  desire 
for  a  revival  produced.  The  first  Monday  of  January, 
by  recommendation  of  the  General  Assembly  of  the 
Presbyterian  Church,  was  extensively  observed  in  this 
country  as  a  day  of  fasting  and  prayer,  for  the  conversion 
of  the  world.  It  was  thought  best  here,  that  the  exer- 
cises during  the  day  should  have  special  reference  to  the 
condition  of  these  churches  and  this  community.  Ac- 
cordingly prayer-meetings  were  held  in  the  different  dis- 
tricts of  the  town  in  the  morning,  and  in  the  afternoon  a 
public  meeting  was  attended,  at  which  the  pastors  made 
a  full  and  particular  exhibition  of  the  proofs  of  a  cold  and 
dead  statf  of  religion  here,  and  urged  on  the  churches 
the  importance  of  awaking  from  their  lethargy,  and  en- 
gaging in  united  and  earnest  prayers  and  exertions  for 
the  prosperity  of  our  Zion.  The  meeting  was  fully  at- 
tended, and  solemn,  as  was  the  monthly  concert  in  the 
evening. 

"  It  soon  became  evident  that  a  decided  impression 
was  made  on  that  day.  Religious  meetings  were  fuller, 
prayer  was  more  fervent,  religion  became  a  subject  of 
more  conversation,  and  a  general  desire  for  a  revival 
seemed  to  pervade  the  churches.  The  interest  in- 
creased; and  the  last  week  in  January,  the  pastors 
thought  it  advisable  to  appoint  special  meetings,  in  ref- 
erence to  the  peculiar  circumstances  of  the  people. 
Daily  morning  meetings  for  prayer,  in  private  houses,  in 
different  parts  of  the  town,  were  now  commenced ;  and 
a  public  service  was  appointed  for  each  evening  in  the 
week.  The  morning  meetings  were  conducted  by  lay- 
men :  some  of  the  evenings  were  occupied  by  the  pas- 
tors, in  endeavouring  to  arouse  the  churches,  to  make 
them  feel  their  responsibility,  and  engage  actively  in 
stirring  up  each  other,  and  in  conversing  freely  with  the 

22* 


258 


ACCOUNT    OP    REVIVAL. 


i.  ■■ : 


Impenitent — duties  which  had  been  greatly  neglected. 
On  other  evenings,  the  churches  met  for  united  prayer ; 
while  non-professors  were  invited  to  assemble  in  another 
place,  and  wore  solemnly  urged  to  attend  to  the  concerns 
of  their  souls.  These  meetings  were  well  attended,  and 
deep  impressions  were  made  on  some  minds.  At  the 
close  of  the  week  an  inquiry-meeting  was  held,  at  which 
a  considerable  number  were  present. 

*'  The  next  Sabbath,  the  two  churches  celebrated  the 
Lord's  Supper  together ;  and  it  was  a  solemn  and  inter- 
esting occasion.  During  the  week,  similar  services  to 
those  already  mentioned  were  held.  Towards  its  close, 
it  became  evident  that  increased  effort  was  demanded, 
and  that  a  crisis  was  near — the  standard  of  the  Lord 
would  go  forward  or  backward,  according  to  the  faith 
and  zeal  of  those  who  bore  it.  The  church  had  not 
yet,  as  a  lohole,  come  up  to  the  work ;  nor  had  the  con- 
victions of  the  unconverted,  in  many  instances,  resulted 
in  submission  of  the  heart  to  God.  On  Saturday,  a 
select  meeting  of  brethren  was  held,  to  confer  with  the 
pastors  ;  and  the  result  was  a  determination  that  breth- 
ren, in  equal  numbers  from  each  church,  should,  the  en- 
suing week,  visit,  two  and  two,  every  family  belonging  to 
the  two  congregations,  to  press  on  professors  of  religion 
their  obligations,  and  the  importance  of  consistent  and 
decided  action,  and  to  pray  with  ihem  in  behalf  of  the 
unconverted  members  of  their  families,  and  also  to  con- 
verse fully  with  the  impenitent,  and  beseech  them  now 
to  be  reconciled  to  God.  The  visiters  were  animated, 
the  visits  were  thorough  and  solemn,  and  the  results 
happy.  This  week,  in  addition  to  the  (now)  usual 
morning  and  evening  meetings,  there  was  preaching 
every  afternoon.  The  meetings  were  thronged — a  gen- 
eral solemnity  pervaded  the  people,  and  the  inquiry-meet- 
ings brought  together  a  large  number,  anxiously  asking 
what  they  should  do  to  be  saved.  Instances  of  hopeful 
conversion  began  now  to  occur,  and  religion  to  be 
regarded  as  *  the  one  thing  needful.' 

^'Yet  there  was  no  visible  excitement  either  in  the 


ACCOUNT    UF   REVIVAL. 


259 


eatly  neglected, 
r  united  prayer ; 
euible  in  anotlier 

to  tlie  concerns 
ell  attended,  and 

minds.     At  the 
as  held,  at  which 

38  celebrated  the 
lolemn  and  inter- 
nilar  services  to 
bwards  its  close, 
t  was  demanded, 
lard  of  the  Lord 
ding  to  the  faith 
church  had  not 
nor  had  the  con- 
istances,  resulted 
On  Saturday,  a 
to  confer  with  the 
lation  that  breth- 
h,  should,  the  en- 
mihj  belonging  to 
3ssors  of  religion 
of  consistent  and 
in  behalf  of  the 
,  and  also  to  con- 
seech  them  now 
were  animated, 
and  the  results 
the    (now)   usual 
e  was  preaching 
thronged — a  gen- 
the  inquiry-meet- 
anxiously  asking 
itances  of  hopeful 
religion  to  be 

lent  either  in  the 


meetings  or  in  the  town.  A  passer-by  would  have 
noticed  nothing  pnculiar  in  the  aspect  of  things  abroad ; 
and  the  meetings  were  distinguished  only  by  numbers, 
profound  attention,  and  the  head  bowed  down,  indicating 
unwonted  emotion.  Tiie  next  week  the  morning  and 
evening  meetings  were  continued,  and,  in  the  afternoon, 
social  meetings  were  held  by  the  visiters  ni  their  several 
districts,  for  conversation  and  prayer.  It  was  now  easy 
to  converse  freely  on  the  subject  of  religion,  with  all 
classes  of  persons :  the  conscience  was  tender,  and  the 
impenitent,  generally,  seemed  to  ex[>ect  and  to  desire  to 
be  addressed.  The  inquiry-meetings  were  thronged : 
from  130  to  200  persons  were  present,  and  it  was  a 
scene  of  thrilling  interest.  All  were  invited  to  attend, 
who  wished  for  personal  conversation  in  relation  to  the 
state  of  their  minds.  During  these  meetings,  the  church- 
es were  always  assembled  in  another  place,  to  pray 
for  a  blessing.  So  large  a  number  came  now,  as  in- 
quirers, that  it  became  necessary  for  the  pastors  to  call 
in  several  laymen  to  assist. 

"  The  meetings  were  conducted  as  follows  : — One  of 
the  pastors  commenced  with  a  prayer  and  a  short  ad- 
dress ;  after  which,  the  pastors  and  brethren  took  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  room,  and  conversed  with  each  in- 
dividual in  a  low  voice,  endeavouring  to  ascertain  the 
precise  state  of  mind,  and  to  give  such  advice  and  direc- 
tions as  the  case  required.     Lists  were  taker*  of  the 
names  and  residence  of  each  person  present,  that  they 
might  afterward  be  visited  and  conversed  with  at  home. 
An  hour  was  thus  spent  in  conversation,  and,  in  somn  in- 
stances, afterward,  those  who  had  come  to  the  decision 
to  renounce  their  sins,  receive  Jesus  as  their  Saviou*-,  aval 
dedicate  themselves  to  the  service  of  God,  were  requeisted 
to  rise  ;  and  it  is  beheved  that  such  a  call  was,  to  some, 
the  means  of  conversion  at  the  moment.     Those  not  oc- 
cupied in  conversation  were  advised  to  spend  the  time  in 
silent  meditation  and  prayer,  giving  their  whole  minds  to 
the  subject,  and  bringing  them  to  an  issue  at  once.     The 


260 


ACCOUNT    OF    REVIVAL. 


1         !      li 


I 


!   ,     i 


I, 


meetings  were  closed  with  an  address  and  prayer,  and 
seasonably  disuussed.  They  were  eminently  blessed, 
and  were,  doubtless,  the  birthplace  of  many  souls. 

•'  The  morning  and  evening  meetings  were  continued 
for  some  weeks,  and  also  those  for  inquiry.  The  num- 
ber who  entertained  the  belief  that  thuy  had  been  re- 
newed in  heart  became  large  ;  and  one  or  two  evenings 
each  week  were  occupied  by  the  pastors,  in  giving  in- 
structions, in  pr<  sence  of  the  churchos,  to  such,  in  rela- 
tion to  the  duties  and  dangers  of  their  new  situation. 

"  The  ministerial  labours  of  this  season  of  revival  were 
performed,  with  three  or  four  exceptions,  by  the  pastors 
themselves,  without  aid  from  abroad.  All  the  meetings, 
save  those  on  the  Sabbath,  were  united  meetings  of  the 
two  churches ;  and  all  that  was  done,  was  done  with 
concert  and  harmony.  The  preaching  was  simple,  but 
powerful ;  calculated  not  so  much  to  produce  excitement 
of  feeling,  as  deep  and  strong  convictions  of  truth  and 
duty.  It  exhibited  the  character  of  God  as  pure  and 
holy ;  the  spirituality  and  extent  of  his  law ;  the  guilt 
and  depravity  of  man ;  the  ingratitude,  odiousness,  and 
misery  of  sin ;  the  freeness  of  the  gospel  offers  of  mercy ; 
the  obligations  to  immediate  repentance,  and  the  un- 
reasonableness and  danger  of  delay.  It  exposed  the 
fallacious  objections  and  cavils  of  sinners,  stripped  them 
of  every  vain  plea,  and  brought  them  to  decide  for 
or  against  immediate  submission  to  God. 

"  Of  the  subjects  of  the  work,  a  few  were  aged,  sev- 
eral in  middle  life,  but  most  were  young.  Some  had 
been  well  instructed  in  the  truth,  and  were  moral  and  re- 
spectable ;  others  were  ignorant  and  unprincipled ;  some 
were  Unitarians,  who  were  induced,  by  curiosity,  to  at- 
tend the  meetings ;  a  few  were  affected,  and  hopefully 
converted,  without  being  present  at  any  of  the  special 
services.  A  large  number  of  the  converts  were  members 
of  the  Sabbath  school :  some  entire  classes  were  taken ; 
one  of  them  was  a  class  of  sixteen  young  men;  the 
teacher  was  accustomed  to  visit  each  scholar,  in  the 


1  i\ 


n§m 


ACCOUNT    OP    UEVIVAL. 


201 


9  and  prayer,  and 
ninently  blessed, 
nany  souls, 
s  were  continued 
uiry.  The  nuui- 
ley  had  been  re- 
5  or  two  evenings 
tors,  in  giving  in- 
,  to  such,  in  rela- 
lew  situation, 
an  of  revival  were 
IS,  by  the  pastors 
All  the  meetings, 
I  meetings  of  the 
!,  was  done  with 
I  was  simple,  but 
oduce  excitement 
tions  of  truth  and 
jrod  as  pure  and 
is  law ;  the  guilt 
,  odiousness,  and 
1  offers  of  mercy ; 
nee,  and  the  un- 
it exposed  the 
jrs,  stripped  them 
m  to  decide  for 
d. 

r  were  aged,  sev- 
ung.  Some  had 
ere  moral  and  re- 
principled;  some 
y  curiosity,  to  at- 
;ed,  and  hopefully 
ny  of  the  special 
rts  were  members 
isses  were  taken; 
young  men;  the 
1  scholar,  in  the 


course  of  the  week,  for  personal  convorsation  and  prayer. 
In  this  and  other  instances,  the  blessiDg  seemed  propor- 
tioned to  the  ein)rts  and  prayers  of  the  teachers. 

"  There  were  no  individual  instances  of  so  marked  a 
nature  as  to  require  specification.  Though  the  peculiar 
exercises  of  the  subjects  of  the  work  wore  very  various, 
yet  they  were  usually  silent  and  deep,  raihev  than 
obvious  and  obtrusive.  In  general,  the  mind  soon  came 
to  a  decision,  and  the  results,  for  the  most  part,  were  very 
similar — a  calm  and  peaceful  joy  in  God,  and  a  desire  of 
dovotedness  to  his  service.  The  work  was  very  rapid 
in  its  progress.  Nearly  all  the  conversions  took  place 
within  five  or  six  weeks  after  the  commencement  of 
special  means,  and  a  large  proportion  in  three  weeks. 
An  enrolment  was  made  of  tlie  names  of  those  who  in- 
tended, at  a  future  time,  to  join  the  church ;  and  the  num- 
ber so  enrolled,  who  wore  considered  subjects  of  the 
work,  WP°  about  250.  Besides  these  were  several  be- 
longing to  the  neighbouring  towns,  and  others,  making 
the  number  of  hopeful  converts  about  300.  Of  those  en- 
rolled, 150  have  since  been  admitted  to  these  churches, 
on  examination,  furnishing  to  the  pastor  und  church  com- 
mittee credible  evidence  of  piety,  and  publicly  professing 
their  faith  in  Christ.  The  remainder,  many  of  whom  are 
young,  are  considered  as  catechumens,  to  be  watched 
over  and  instructed  for  future  examination.  None  of 
these  are  known  to  have  apostatized  and  renounced 
their  hopes,  and  most  of  them  are  manifestly  walking  in 
newness  of  life. 

"  The  interest  which  was  manifested  in  the  winter, 
gradually  diminished  as  the  season  opened ;  or,  at  least, 
the  press  of  business  caused  a  decline  in  attendance  on 
meetings  ;  and  these  were  made  less  numerous,  till  they 
were  reduced  to  the  customary  number.  In  one  district, 
however,  the  morning  prayer-meetings  have  been  con- 
tinued to  the  present  time.  The  good  influences  of  the 
revival  are,  in  many  ways,  still  felt.  There  is  a  full  at-' 
tendance  upon  the  means  of  grace,  a  tenderness  of  con-i 
science  in  some,  and  a  strong  desire  in  not  a  few  fo^r  thtt 


262 


ACCOUNT    C    REVIVAL. 


renewal  of  the  blessing.  The  general  effect  on  the 
churches  has  been,  to  unite  them  and  their  pastors  in 
zealous  co-operation  with  each  other ;  to  add  to  their 
strength  as  well  as  numbers  ;  and  to  draw  closer  the  ties 
of  Christian  brotherhood,  and  increase  the  labours  of 
Christian  faithfulness. 

^^  Remarks. — 1.  This  work  was  manifestly  of  God, 
and  not  of  man.  On  no  other  ground  can  its  commence- 
ment, its  progress,  or  its  results  be  accounted  for.  The 
philosophy  which  rejects  the  necessity  and  reality  of  the 
Divine  agency  in  revivals,  is  utterly  unable  to  explain 
their  phenomena.  It  cannot  tell  nor  see  why  Christian 
professors,  who  had  long  been  slumbering  in  cold  indif- 
ference to  their  duty,  should  suddenly  and  simultaneously 
awake,  and  arise,  and  call  upon  God ;  or  why  the  care- 
less, the  profane,  the  errorist,  and  the  skeptic,  should  now 
be  brought  to  solemn  reflection,  diligent  attendance  upon 
the  means  of  grace,  anxious  consideration,  and  thorough 
and  permanent  reformation  of  heart  and  life. 

"  2.  It  was,  at  the  same  time,  the  result  of  prayer  and 
effort.  The  Divine  blessing  was,  no  doubt,  fervently 
sought  on  the  first  Monday  of  January,  from  which  time 
increased  interest  began  to  be  manifest.  The  churches 
humbled  themselves,  they  repented  of  their  backslidings, 
and  renewedly  engaged  to  be  wholly  devoted  to  their 
Master's  service.  They  went  forth  to  his  work.  They 
exhibited,  in  some  measure,  the  true  spirit  of  the  gospel ; 
especially  did  they  cry  mightily  to  God,  for  his  Spirit  te 
be  poured  out  upon  them,  their  famihes,  and  the  commu- 
nity. The  special  means  which  were  appointed,  were, 
indeed,  rather  the  consequence  than  the  cause  of  awakened 
feeling ;  yet  they  were  necessary  to  its  progress,  and  with- 
out them  it  would,  without  doubt,  speedily  have  subsided. 
"  3.  This  revival  illustrated  the  powerful  influence  of 
a  church  when  awake,  active,  and  faithful.  Much  was 
done  by  Christians  to  excite  each  other  to  duty ;  much 
to  induce  the  penitent  to  flee  for  refuge  to  the  Savicjr, 
Christians  were  then  seen  and  felt  to  be  in  earnest — to 
believe  and  to  act  on  what  they  professed — to  relax  their 


:>  I 


m 


[i. 


ACCOUNT  OP  REVIVAL. 


263 


ral  effect  on  the 
1  their  pastors  in 
;  to  add  to  their 
aw  closer  the  ties 
B  the  labours  of 

inifestly  of  God, 
an  its  commence- 
3unted  for.  The 
and  reality  of  the 
inable  to  explain 
ee  why  Christian 
ing  in  cold  indif- 
id  simultaneously 
)r  why  the  caie- 
eptic,  should  now 
attendance  upon 
on,  and  thorough 
,  Hie. 
ult  of  prayer  and 

doubt,  fervently 
from  which  time 
The  churches 
leir  backslidings, 
devoted  to  their 
lis  work.  They 
rit  of  the  gospel ; 

for  his  Spirit  te 
and  the  comrou- 
appointed,  were, 
luse  of  awakened 
ogress,  and  with- 
y  have  subsided, 
rful  influence  of 
ful.  Much  was 
r  to  duty  ;  much 

to  the  Saviour, 
e  in  earnest — to 
1 — to  relax  their 


hold  on  earthly  pursuits  and  pleasures,  and  to  seek  first 
and  chiefly  to  do  their  duty  to  God,  and  to  their  dying 
fellow-men.  The  result  was,  a  general  solemnity — a 
conviction,  even  among  the  most  thoughtless,  that  God 
was  here,  that  religion  is  a  reality,  and  that  the  only  true 
wisdom  is  to  give  it  immediate  and  earnest  attention. 
The  minds  of  all  were  open  to  personal  exhortation  and 
reproof,  and  conversation  and  personal  influence  were  in- 
strumental of  the  happiest  consequences. 

"  4.  In  this  work  was  seen  the  immense  value  of  re- 
ligious instruction.  Those  who  were  most  interested, 
and  who  were  soonest  brought  to  repentance  and  submis- 
sion, were,  in  general,  those  who  had  been  thoroughly 
taught  the  truths  of  the  Bible,  who  knew  their  duty  and 
obligation,  and  who,  when  the  Spirit  touched  their  hearts, 
had  no  shield  of  error  or  ignorance,  no  cavils  or  objec- 
tions to  interpose,  to  blunt  the  edge  of  conviction.  They 
saw  the  claims  of  conscience  and  of  God,  and  felt  them 
to  be  irresistible.  Such  a  revival  is  eminently  the  time, 
when  the  seeds  of  truth  sown  in  the  youthful  mind 
spring  up  and  bring  forth  fruit.  In  one  of  the  congrega- 
tions of  one  hundred  hopeful  converts,  seventy  were 
members  of  the  Sabbath  school. 

"5.  In  this  work  was  eminently  illustrated  the  practi- 
cal importance  of  pressing  upon  sinners  their  obligations 
to  immediate  repentance.  The  impenitent  we_  called  on, 
without  a  moment's  delay,  to  cease  their  rebellion  against 
the  authority  of  God,  and  accept  of  proffered  mercy ;  they 
were  told  that  to  delai/  was  to  refuse ;  that  nothing  effect- 
ual was  or  could  be  done  till  the  heart  was  yielded  up 
to  God ;  and  that  this  work  demands  no  length  of  time, 
no  series  of  means,  no  protracted  efforts,  but  might  boj 
ought  to  be,  must  be,  done  noio ;  that  there  is  no  other 
accepted  time  but  the  present  moment ;  and  that  God 
now  commanded  them  to  repent.  Such  appeals  were  not 
in  vain ;  and  in  many  instances,  during  the  sermon  or  the 
address,  it  is  believed,  the  heart  surrendered  itself  to  the 
Saviour.  No  other  mode  of  dealing  with  men  can  reach 
their  case,  or  serve  but  as  an  opiate  to  their  conscience* 
in  regard  to  present  duty." 


—  •••"'■»^— "' — 


264 


ACCOUNT  OF  SUNDAY  SCHOOLS. 


Account  of  the  Sunday  Schools. 

The  school  in  the  first  parish  has  about  sixty  teachers^ 
and  500  scholars.  That  in  the  Edwards  Church  has 
thirty  teachers,  and  200  scholars.  The  teachers  are  in 
general  intelligent,  and  nearly  all  pious,  and  professors 
of  religion.  Some  of  them  are  middle-aged  ;  but  most 
are  men  and  women  from  twenty  to  thirty  years  of  age. 
The  scholars  are  from  every  class  of  families,  including 
the  most  refined  and  respectable.  About  three  fifths  of 
them  are  children  under  fifteen  years  of  age  ;  of  the  re- 
mainder, some  are  adults,  from  twenty-five  to  sixty  ;  but 
the  majority,  youths  of  both  sexes.  The  schools  are 
held  one  hour  each  Sabbath,  after  the  morning  or  after- 
noon service  ;  they  are  opened  with  prayer.  All  the 
classes  study  the  same  lesson,  which  is  a  passage  of  the 
Bible,  in  course ;  a  book  of  questions  adapted  to  it  is 
Used  ;  and  the  pupils  are  expected  to  commit  the  passage 
to  memory,  and  be  able  to  answer  all  the  questions. 
The  teachers  meet,  usually  on  Saturday  evening,  to  dis- 
cuss and  prepare  the  lesson.  One  of  their  number,  or 
the  pastor,  presides,  and  the  meetlags  are  opened  and 
closed  with  prayer.  These  meetings  are  regarded  as 
highly  interesting  and  useful.  Prayer-meetings  have  at 
times  been  held  by  the  teachers  on  Sabbath  morning, 
with  particular  reference  to  the  duties  of  the  day,  and 
the  results  have  been  very  happy.  The  teachers  are 
expected  not  only  to  explain  and  enforce  the  lesson,  but 
to  use  every  proper  means  to  promote  the  eternal  welfare 
of  their  pupils.  The  great  and  ultimate  object  which 
they  have  in  view  is  their  conversion  and  salvation; 
and,  in  dependance  on  God,  they  labour  and  pray  for  this 
blessing.  They  endeavour,  by  exhortation  and  influence, 
to  persuade  them,  without  delay,  to  devote  themselves  to 
the  service  of  Jesus  Christ. 

There  are  large  libraries  in  each  school,  books  from 
which  are  given  out  every  Sabbath,  to  be  retained  not 
exceeding  a  fortniglit.  Care  is  taken  to  admit  no  works 
into  the  library  without  careful  examination  of  their  char- 
acter. They  are  numbered  and  charged  to  each  scholai' 
when  received. 


OLS. 


AMHERST. 


265 


oh. 

it  sixty  teachersj 
rds  Church  has 
teachers  are  in 
,  and  professors 
-aged ;  but  most 
ty  years  of  age. 
miUes,  including 
at  three  fifths  of 
age  ;  of  the  re- 
ive to  sixty  ;  but 
The  schools  are 
lorning  or  after- 
prayer.     All  the 
a  passage  of  the 
adapted  to  it  is 
immit  the  passage 
ill  the  questions. 
y  evening,  to  dis- 
their  number,  or 
are  opened  and 
are  regarded  as 
meetings  have  at 
Sabbath  morning, 
s  of  the  day,  and 
he  teachers  are 
ce  the  lesson,  but 
he  eternal  v^relfare 
tate  object  v^rhich 
n  and   salvation; 
:  and  pray  for  this 
ion  and  influence, 
ote  themselves  to 

chool,  books  from 
0  be  retained  not 
to  admit  no  works 
Ltion  of  their  char- 
d  to  each  scholar 


All  absences  are  noted,  and  the  teachers  or  the  visiters 
(a  board  appointed  for  the  purpose  in  the  first  parish 
school)  are  expected,  every  fortnight,  to  visit  the  fami- 
lies whose  members  have  been  absent,  to  notify  the  pa- 
rents of  the  fact,  and  inquire  the  reason. 

The  monthly  concert  for  Sabbath  schools  is  well  ob- 
served, and  is  usually  very  interesting.  Tliere  is,  in 
each  school,  a  missionary  association,  comprising  most 
of  the  scholars,  who  contribute  monthly  for  some  benev- 
olent religious  charity.  The  funds  of  one  c  "  these  are 
now  applied  to  establishing  a  school  in  Ceylon ;  those 
of  the  other,  in  supporting  a  liome  missionary  at  the 
West.  They  will  probably  raise,  during  the  year,  200  or 
300  dollars. 

Of  course,  all  the  labour  connected  with  the  Sabbalh 
school  is  gratuitous.  It  blesses  those  who  teach  not 
less  than  those  who  are  taught.  It  is  the  hope  of  tho 
church ;  it  is  the  great  preventive  of  moral  deterioration 
in  our  land ;  and  the  most  powerful  antidote  to  those 
evils  which  seem  to  threaten  our  popular  government. 


LETTER  XXIII. 

My  DEAR  Fbiend, 

On  the  Monday,  September  the  1st,  T  loft  Northampton 
to  proceed  on  my  way  to  Meredith.  I  need  not  say  that 
I  had  much  regret  on  leaving ;  but  it  was  quaUfied  con- 
siderably by  the  hope  that  I  should  meet  my  brethren 
again  at  Hartford. 

We  passed  through  Amherst ;  and  I  may  as  well  re- 
mark, that  during  my  stay  at  Northampton  I  visited  that 
place  a  r  f^cond  time,  and  Dr.  Humphrey,  with  Mr  Adams, 
the  pastor  of  the  church,  were  so  obliging  as  to  come 
over  and  spend  a  morning  with  me  at  Dr.  Penny's.  This 
college  is  excellently  situated  on  elevated  ground,  and  in 

Vol.  I.— M  33 


866 


ACCOUNT  OF  REVIVAL. 


■    i'-' 


a  country  at  once  open,  varied,  and  grand.  It  itself  has 
a  good  and  handsome  appearance,  but  is  not  on  so  large 
a  scale  as  the  number  of  students  would  suggest,  for 
they  board  in  diflerent  families  in  the  village.  Professor 
Hitchcock,  known  advantageously  to  the  public  by  his 
productions  on  geology,  attended  me  over  the  premises. 
The  accommodations  for  the  general  uses  are  decidedly 
good.  There  is  a  library  of  about  7,000  volumes  ;  and 
there  is  an  apparatus  which  cost  .'>,000  dollars,  a  recent 
purchase  at  Pans.  It  is  a  young  institution ;  but  it  has 
grown  rapidly,  and  it  has  done  so  without  impairing  its 
vigour. 

It  is,  however,  chiefly  remarkable  for  several  revivals 
which  have  occurred  in  it  in  succession.  Certainly  revi- 
vals in  this  connexion  are  of  the  most  interesting  charac- 
ter. Dr.  Humphrey  was  kindly  at  great  pains  to  satisfy 
my  inquiries  on  the  subject.  Since  then  I  have  seen 
the  account  drawn  up  by  Mr.  Abbott ;  and  it  is  so  im- 
portant, and  I  can  so  fully  confirm  it  by  the  information 
I  received,  that  I  do  not  hesitate  to  make  the  following 
extracts : — 


'       I 


"In  1827,  the  state  of  religion  was  very  low  in  this 
college.  Faithful  religious  instruction  was  given  on  the 
Sabbath,  at  the  chapel  where  the  students  were  required 
to  attend,  and  we  were  accustomed  to  liold  alsc  a  meet- 
ing for  familiar  religious  instruction  one  evening  during 
the  week.  At  this  meeting,  however,  scarcely  any  were 
present ;  a  small  portion  of  the  actual  members  of  the 
church  were  accustomed  to  attend,  but  never  any  one 
else.  If  a  single  individual,  not  professedly  a  Christian, 
had  come  in  for  a  single  evening,  it  would  have  been 
noticed  as  a  rare  occurrence,  and  talked  of  by  the  offi- 
cers as  something  unexpected  and  extraordinary.  Our 
hearts  ached,  and  our  spirits  sunk  within  us,  to  witness 
the  coldness  and  hardness  of  heart  towards  ciod  a^^d  duty 
which  reigned  among  so  large  a  ^.un  ber  of  our  pupils. 
Every  private  eflfort  which  we  could  make  with  individu- 
als entirely  failed,  and  we  could  see,  too,  that  those  who 


"1;' 


ACCOUNT  OF  REVIVAL. 


267 


[.  It  itself  has 
not  on  so  large 
id  s  Aggest,  for 
Lge.  Professor 
?  public  by  his 
ir  the  premises. 
9  are  decidedly 
)  volumes  ;  and 
lollars,  a  recent 
tion  ;  but  it  has 
it  impairing  its 

several  revivals 

Certainly  revi- 

eresting  cliarac- 

pains  to  satisfy 
len  I  have  seen 
and  it  is  so  im- 

the  information 
ke  the  following 


very  low  in  this 
as  given  on  the 
ts  were  required 
old  alsc  a  meet- 
evening  during 
arcely  any  were 
members  of  the 
never  auny  one 
3dly  a  Christian, 
ould  have  been 
of  by  the  offi- 
aofdinary.      Our 
n  us,  to  Witness 
is  God  HAd  duty 
of  our  pupils, 
e  with  individu- 
,  thut  those  who 


professed  to  love  the  Saviour  were  rapidly  losing  their 
interest  in  his  cause,  and  becoming  engrossed  in  htevary 
ambition  and  college  rivalry,  dishonouring  God's  cause, 
and  gradually  removing  every  obstacle  to  the  universal 
prevalence  of  vice  and  sin. 

"  There  w^^'  then  in  college  a  young  man  who  had 
been  among  the  foremost  in  his  opposition  to  religion. 
His  taLnts  and  his  address  gave  him  a  great  deal  of  per- 
sonal influence,  which  was  of  such  a  character  as  to  be 
a  constant  source  of  solicitude  to  the  government.  He 
was  repeatedly  involved  in  difficulties  with  the  officers 
on  accou"!  of  his  transgrc  ssions  of  the  college  laws,  and 
so  well  known  were  liis  feelings  on  the  subject,  that  when 
at  a  government  meeting,  during  the  progress  of  the  revi- 
val, we  were  told  with  astonishment,  by  the  President, 
that  this  young  man  was  suffering  great  distress  on  ac- 
count of  his  sins,  it  was  supposed  by  one  of  the  officers 
that  it  must  be  all  a  pretence,  feigned  to  deceive  the 
President,  and  make  sport  for  his  companions.  The  Pres- 
ident did  not  reply  to  the  suggestion,  but  went  to  visit 
him  ;  and  when  I  next  saw  him,  he  said,  '  There's  no 
pretence  there.  If  the  Spirit  of  God  is  not  at  work  upon 
his  heart,  I  know  nothing  about  the  agency  of  the  Spirit.' 

"  That  young  man  is  now  the  pastor  of  a  church, 
active  and  useful,  and,  when  commencing  this  narrative, 
I  wrote  to  him  to  send  me  such  reminiscences  of  this 
scene  as  might  remain  upon  his  mind.  He  writes  me 
thus  : — 

" '  Very  dear  Sir, 
"  '  My  obligations  to  you  as  a  friend  and  instructer, 
make  me  anxious  to  fulfil  my  promise,  of  drawing  up  a 
sketch  of  the  revival  at  Amherst  College  during  the  last 
two  or  three  weeks  of  April,  1827.  I  have  been  delayed, 
partly  by  sickness  and  the  unusual  pressure  of  duties 
here,  partly  by  the  difficulty  of  settling  in  my  mind  a 
clear  idea  of  what  you  wish,  and  partly  by  the  impos- 
sibdity  of  reviving  the  memory  of  facts  and  impressions 
ia  tiie  exact  order  of  their  occurrence.     If  this  cam» 

M2 


268 


ACCOUNT  OF  REVIVAL. 


munication  should  reach  you  too  late  to  answer  your 
purpose,  it  will  at  least  prove  my  wish  to  yield  you  such 
assistance  as  I  may. 

" '  For  a  considerable  time  previous,  the  subject  of 
religion  in  college  had  fallen  into  great  neglect ;  even 
the  outward  forms  were  very  faintly  observed.  During 
nearly  two  years,  in  which  I  hc:d  been  connected  with 
the  college,  I  had  never  heard  tl.3  subject  mentioned 
among  the  students,  except  as  matter  of  reproach  and 
ridicule.  At  least,  this  is  true,  SC'  far  as  my  intercourse 
with  the  students  was  concerned.  Those  who  professed 
piety,  either  through  timidity  or  unr^oncerp,  seemed  to 
let  the  subject  rest,  and  were  chiefly  devoted  tc  indolence 
or  literary  ambition.  But  while  religion  was  shamed  and 
fugitive,  irrehgion  was  bold  and  free.  A  majority  of  the 
students;  were  avowedly  destitute  of  piety  ;  and  of  these 
a  large  portion  were  open  or  secret  infidels ;  and  many 
went  to  every  length  they  could  reach,  of  levity,  pro- 
faneness,  and  dissipation.  So  many  animosities  and  ir- 
regularities prevailed,  as  to  endanger  the  general  reputa- 
tion of  the  seminary. 

"  '  Some  of  the  students  who  were  differently  situated 
from  myself,  may  perhaps  have  noticed  preparatory 
movements  on  the  common  mass  of  mind,  indicating  an 
under-current  of  feeling,  gradually  gaining  strength,  and 
preparing  the  community  for  the  results  which  were  to 
follow.  But  I  saw  none  ;  and  none  such  could  have 
been  generally  apparent.  Upon  myself,  the  change 
opened  with  as  much  suddenness  as  power. 

"  '  The  first  circumstance  which  attracted  my  atten- 
tion was  a  sermon  from  the  President  on  the  Sabbath. 
I  do  not  know  what  the  text  and  subject  were,  for,  ac- 
cording to  a  wicivod  habit,  I  had  been  asleep  till  near  its 
close.  I  seemed  to  be  awakened  by  a  silence  which 
pervaded  the  room ;  a  deep,  solemn  attention,  which 
seems  to  spread  over  an  assembly  when  all  are  com- 
pletely engrossed  in  some  absorbing  theme.  I  looked 
around,  astonished,  and  the  feeling  of  profound  attention 
geemed  to  settle  on  myself.     I  looked  towards  the  Presi- 


ACCOUNT    OF   REVIVAL. 


269 


to  answer  your 

0  yield  you  such 

1,  the  subject  of 
at  neglect ;  even 
iserved.     During 

1  connected  with 
abject  mentioned 

of  reproach  and 
IS  my  intercourse 
se  who  professed 
icerp,  seemed  to 
oted  tc  indolence 
I  was  shamed  and 
A  majority  of  the 
'ty  ;  and  of  these 
fidels;  and  many 
h,  of  levity,  pro- 
nimosities  and  ir- 
le  general  reputa- 

ifFerently  situated 
iced  preparatory 
nd,  indicating  an 
ling  strength,  and 
ts  which  were  to 
such  could  have 
self,  the  change 
iwer. 

tracted  my  atten- 

on  the  Sabbath. 

ect  were,  for,  ac- 

sleep  till  near  its 

a  silence  which 

attention,  which 

len  all  are  com- 

heme.     I  looked 

rofcund  attention 

owards  the  Presi- 


dent, and  saw  him  calm  and  collected,  but  evidently  most 
deeply  interested  in  what  he  was  saying, — his  whole 
soul  engaged,  and  his  countenance  beaming  with  an  ex- 
pression of  eager  earnestness,  which  lighted  up  all  his 
features,  and  gave  to  his  language  unusual  energy  and 
power. 

"  '  What  could  this  mean  ?  I  had  never  seen  a  speaker 
and  his  audience  so  engaged.  He  was  making  a  most 
earnest  appeal  to  prevent  those  who  were  destitute  of 
religion  themselves,  from  doing  any  thing  to  obstruct  the 
progress  of  the  revival  which  he  hoped  was  approach- 
ing ;  or  of  doing  any  thing  to  prevent  the  salvation  of 
others,  even  if  they  did  not  desire  salvation  for  them- 
selves. He  besought  them,  by  all  the  interests  of  im- 
mortality, and  for  the  sake  of  themselves,  and  of  their 
companions,  to  desist  from  hostilities  against  the  work 
of  God. 

" '  The  discourse  closed,  and  we  dispersed.  But 
many  of  us  carried  away  the  arrow  in  our  hearts.  The 
gayest  and  the  hardiest  trembled  at  the  manifest  approach 
of  a  sublime  and  unwonted  influence.  Among  some 
who  might  have  been  expected  to  raise  the  front  of  oppo- 
sition, I  resolved  not  to  do  it,  but  to  let  it  take  its  course, 
keeping  away  from  its  influence,  without  doing  any  thing 
to  oppose  It ;  but  neutrality  was  impossible. 

" '  It  was  probably  with  an  intention  somewhat  similar 
to  that  which  prompted  the  meetmgs  which  the  irreli- 
gious students  held  by  themselves  the  year  before.,  that 
the  following  plan  was  formed.  A  student,  who  was 
temporarily  my  ruom-mate,  importuned  me  to  invite  one 
of  the  tutors  to  conduct  a  religious  meeting  in  my  room. 
I  told  him  I  would,  if  he  would  obtain  the  promise  of 
certain  individuals,  ten  in  number,  whom  I  named,  that 
they  would  attend.  I  selected  such  individuals  as  I  was 
confident  would  not  consent  to  be  present.  In  a  short 
time,  he  surprised  me  with  the  information  that  he  had 
seen  them  all,  and  that  they  had  consented  to  the  pro- 
posal. Of  course,  I  was  obhged,  though  reluctantly,  to 
request  the  tutor  to  hold  such  a  meeting.     Most  of  us 

23* 


270 


ACCOUNT    OF    REVIVAL. 


repaired  to  the  place  at  the  appointed  time,  with  feelings 
of  levity  or  of  bitter  hostility  to  religion.  My  room- 
mate had  waggishly  placed  a  Hebrew  Uible  on  the  stand. 
Whether  this  circumstance,  or  the  character  of  his  au- 
ditory, suggested  the  subject  which  the  tutor  chose,  I 
know  not ;  but,  after  opening  the  meeting  with  prayer. 
he  entered  into  a  defence  of  the  Divine  authority  of  the 
holy  Scriptures,  from  external  and  internal  evidence, 
which  he  maintained  in  the  most  convincing  manner ; 
and  then,  on  the  strength  of  this  authority,  he  urged  its 
promises  and  denunciations  upon  us  as  sinners.  The 
eflect  was  very  powerful.  Several  retired  deeply  im- 
pressed, and  all  were  made  more  serious,  and  better  pre- 
pared to  be  influenced  by  the  truth.  So  that  this  affair 
"  fell  out  rather  to  the  furtherance  of  the  gospel." 

" '  My  own  interest  in  the  subject  rapidly  increased, 
and  one  day,  while  secluded  in  my  apartment,  and  over- 
whelmed with  conflicting  emotions  of  pride  and  despair, 
I  was  surprised  by  a  visit  from  the  President.  He  in- 
formed me  that  he  had  come  with  the  hope  of  dissua- 
ding me  from  doing  any  thing  to  hinder  the  progress  of  the 
revival.  After  intimating  that  he  need  feel  no  apprehen- 
sions on  that  point,  I  confessed  to  him,  with  difficulty, 
the  agitation  of  my  thoughts.  Apparently  much  affected, 
he  only  said,  "  Ah,  I  was  afraid  you  would  never  have 
such  feelings."  After  remaining  silent  a  few  minutes, 
he  engaged  in  prayer,  and  retired,  advising  me  to  attend 
a  certain  meeting  of  my  class-mates  for  prayer.  I  felt 
very  much  hke  the  Syrian  general,  when  offended  by  the 
supposed  neglect  of  the  prophet ;  for  I  thought  he  would 
have  seized  the  opportunity  to  do  some  great  thing  for 
the  relief  of  my  labouring  mind. 

"  *  With  feelings  still  more  excited,  I  repaired  to  one 
of  my  class-mates,  who  had  the  reputation  of  being  one 
of  the  most  consistent  Christians  among  us.  I  asked 
him,  with  tears,  to  tell  me  what  I  should  do  to  be  saved. 
He,  too,  betrayed  his  wonder,  and  only  resorted  to  prayer 
with  me,  in  which  he  could  do  little  but  say,  "  Jesus, 
thou  Son  of  David,  have  mercy  on  us.''''     Long  after- 


time,  with  feelings 
igion.     My  room- 
iible  on  the  stand. 
Kiracter  of  his  au- 
hc  tutor  chose,  I 
eting  with  prayer, 
ic  authority  of  the 
internal   evidence, 
nvincing  manner ; 
lority,  he  urged  its 
as  sinners.     The 
retired  deeply  im- 
as,  and  better  pre- 
So  that  this  affair 
he  gospel." 
rapidly  increased, 
utment,  and  over- 
pride  and  despair, 
resident.     He  in- 
J  hope  of  dissua- 
the  progress  of  the 
feel  no  apprehen- 
m,  with  difficulty, 
itly  much  affected, 
I'ould  never  have 
It  a  few  minutes, 
sing  me  to  attend 
or  prayer.     I  felt 
n  offended  by  the 
thought  he  would 
3  great  thing  for 

I  repaired  to  one 
tion  of  being  one 
ng  us.  I  asked 
i  do  to  be  saved, 
esorted  to  prayer 
'ut  say,  "Jesus, 
f."     Long  after- 


ACCOUNT    OF   REVIVAL. 


271 


ward  I  learned  that  when  he  left  me,  to  join  a  circle  as- 
sembled that  evening  for  prayer,  he  told  them  that  my 
inquiry  for  the  way  of  salvation  made  him  feel  as  if  he 
needed  to  learn  it  himself.' 

"  I  have  thus  followed  out  this  particular  case,  in 
order  to  give  to  my  readers,  by  means  of  a  minute  ex- 
amination of  one  specimen,  a  clear  idea  of  the  nature 
of  the  changes  which  were  effected.  There  were,  how- 
ever, many  other  cases,  as  marked  and  striking  as  this  ; 
so  that  any  person  who  was  a  member  of  college  at  tha» 
time  might  be  in  doubt,  after  reading  the  preceding 
description,  which  of  half  a  dozen  decided  enemies  of 
religion,  who  were  at  this  time  changed,  was  the  one 
referred  to.  In  fact,  the  feeling  went  through  the 
college — it  took  the  whole.  Nothmg  like  opposition 
to  it  was  known,  except  that,  perhaps,  in  a  very  few 
cases,  individuals  made  efforts  to  shield  themselves  from 
its  influence  ;  and  one  or  two  did  this  successfully,  by 
keeping  themselves  for  many  days  under  the  influ- 
ence of  ardent  spirit !  ^  v  iih  a  few  exceptions  of 
this  kind,  the  unwonted  and  mysterious  influence  was 
welcomed  by  all.  It  was  not  among  Christians  a  feel- 
ing of  terror,  of  sadness,  and  melancholy,  but  of  de- 
light. Their  countenances  were  not  gloomy  and  morose, 
as  many  persons  suppose  is  the  case  at  such  a  time,  but 
they  beamed  with  an  expression  of  enjoyment,  which 
seemed  to  be  produced  by  the  all-pervading  sense  of  the 
immediate  presence  of  God.  I  have  seen,  in  other  cases, 
efforts  to  appear  solemn — the  affected  gravity  of  counte- 
nance and  seriousness  of  tone — but  there  was  nothing 
of  that  here.  Hearts  were  all  full  to  overflowing,  and 
it  was  with  a  mysterious  mingling  of  peace  and  joy — an 
emotion  of  deep  overwhelming  gladness  in  the  soul, 
ihough  of  a  character  so  peculiar  that  it  expressed  itself 
in  the  countenance  by  mingled  smiles  and  tears. 

"  The  ordinary  exercises  of  college  were  not  inter- 
rupted. The  President  held  two  or  three  religious 
meetings  during  the  week,  but  recitations  went  on  un- 
changed, and  I  well  recollect  the  appearance  of  my 
mathematical  classes.     The  students  would  walk  silently 


: 


272 


ACCOUNT   OP   REVIVAL. 


n 


:ii 


and  slowly  from  their  rooms,  ami  assemble  at  the  ap- 
pointed place.  It  was  plain  (h,(<  the  hearts  of  many  of 
them  were  full  of  such  emoLioiJS  as  I  have  describad. 
Others,  who  were  still  unrenewed,  would  sit  with  do^vn- 
cast  eyes,  and  when  it  came  to  their  turn  to  be  questian- 
ed,  would  make  an  effort  to  control  their  feelings,  and 
finding  that  they  could  not  recite,  would  ask  me  to  excuse 
them.  Others,  known  heretofore  as  enemies  of  God  ind 
religion,  sat  still,  their  heads  reclined  upon  the  .seats 
before  them,  with  their  hearts  overwhelmed  with  remorse 
and  sorrow,  and  eyes  filled  with  tears.  I  could  not  ask 
them  a  question.  One  morning,  I  recollect,  so  strong 
and  so  universal  were  these  feelings,  that  we  could  not 
go  on.  The  room  was  silent  as  death.  Every  eye  was 
down  ;  I  called  upon  one  after  another,  but  in  viiin  ;  and 
we  together  prayed  God  to  come  and  be  with  us,  and 
bless  us,  and  to  save  us  and  our  class-mates  from  sin 
and  suffering,  and  then  silently  went  to  our  rooms. 

"  The  buildings  were  as  still  this  week  ar  if  they  had 
been  depopulated.  The  students  loved  to  be  alons. 
They  walked  about  silently.  They  said  little  when  they 
met,  as  men  always  do  when  their  hearts  are  full.  Late 
in  the  evening,  they  would  collect  in  little  circh  s  in  one 
another's  rooms,  to  spend  a  few  moments  in  prayer.  I 
was  often  invited  to  these  meetings  ;  and  it  was  dehght- 
ful  to  see  the  little  as^.embly  coming  into  the  room  at  the 
appointed  time,  each  bringing  his  own  chair,  and  gather- 
ing around  the  bright  burning  fire,  with  the  armed  chair 
placed  in  one  corner  for  their  instructer,  and  the  two  oc- 
cupants of  the  room  together  upon  the  other  side.  They 
who  were  present  at  these  meetings  will  not  soon  forget 
the  enjoyment  with  which  their  hearts  were  filled,  as 
they  here  bowed  in  supplication  before  God. 

"On  Tuesday  and  Thursday  evenings  we  assembled 
in  the  largest  lecture-room,  for  more  public  wornhip.  It 
was  the  same  room  where,  a  few  weeks  before,  on  the 
same  occasions,  ^  ^e  could  see  only  here  ;  nd  there  one, 
among  the  vaca'  .^  gloomy  seats.  Now  Low  changed ! 
At  the  suirmions  of  the  evening  bell,  group  after  group 


^ 


\ 


ACroUNT    OP    REVIVAL. 


273 


ascended  the  stairs,  and  crowdejd  tlie  benrlies.  It  was 
the  rheloricul  Iccture-rooni,  and  was  arranged  with  rows 
t)!'  seats  on  the  three  sides,  and  a  tal)le  for  the  professor 
on  a  small  platform  on  the  fourth.  The  seats  were  soon 
full,  and  settees  were  brought  in  to  fill  the  area  left  in 
tlie  centre.  The  President  was  seated  at  the  table  ;  on 
nther  side  of  him  the  professors ;  an''  beyond  them, 
iuid  all  around,  the  room  was  erowfli  \  young  men, 

hungering  and  thirsting  after  the  ' 

"  I  recollect  particularly  one;  oi  ,ngs.     It 

was  one  of  the  Rarli.-st  after  the  revi.  .ii.    ;nced,and 

l)i;fore  us,  crowding  the  settees  in  the  open  area,  were 
gathered  all  the  wild,  irreligious,  vicious,  and  abandoned 
young  men  which  the  institution  contained.  There  they 
were,  the  whole  of  them  ;  all  enmity  gone,  opposition 
silenced,  and  pride  subdued ;  and  they  sat  in  silence, 
gazing  at  the  President,  and  drinking  in  all  his  words,  as 
he  pressed  upon  th'?m  tlioir  sins,  and  urged  them  to 
throw  down  the  weapoiis  of  their  rebellion,  and  come 
and  submit  themselves  to  God.  The  text  for  the  even- 
uig,  if  I  recollect  right,  was  this — '  Notwithstanding,  be 
ye  sure  of  this,  the  kingdom  of  God  has  come  nigh  unto 
you.'  Every  person  in  the  room  felt  that  it  was  nigh. 
He  spol<e  in  a  calm,  quiet,  but  impressive  manner,  and 
every  word  went  to  a  hundred  and  fifty  hearts. 

"  We  listened  to  the  sermon,  which  was  earnest  and 
impressive,  though  direct,  plain,  and  simple  ;  it  told  the 
ungodly  hearers  before  us  that  the  kingdom  of  heaven 
was  nigh  them,  and  urged  them  to  ente^  it.  We  knew, — 
we  could  almost  feel  ti.^y  were  entering  it ;  and  when, 
at  the  close  of  the  meeting,  we  sang  our  parting  hymn, 
I  believe  there  was  as  much  real,  deep-flowing  happiness 
in  that  small  but  crowded  apartment,  as  four  such  walls 
ever  contained. 

"  When  the  indications  of  this  visit  from  above  first 
appeared,  it  was  about  a  fortnight  before  the  close  of  the 
term,  and  -in  about  ten  days  its  object  was  accomplished. 
Out  of  the  wiiole  number  of  those  who  had  been  irreli- 
gious at  its  commencement,  about  one  half  professed  tp 

M3 


<^. 


Yfo 


^%^. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


mt 


^  A 


1.0 


12.5 


I.I 


11.25 


^  lii   12.2 
I,   1^    12.0 


1114   11.6 


-    6" 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WtST  MAIN  STMET 

WIUTII,N.Y.  14SM 

(716)t72-4S03 


274 


BRATTLEBOROUGH. 


i  I 


:!    tH 


ii 


i»      t 


Hi I 


have  given  themselves  up  to  God ;  but  as  to  all  the 
talent,  and  power  of  opposition,  and  open  enmity, — the 
vice,  the  profaneness,  the  dissipation, — the  revival  took 
the  whole.  With  one  or  two  exceptions,  it  took  the 
whole.  And  when,  a  few  weeks  afterward,  the  time  ar- 
ri  'ed  for  those  thus  changed  to  make  a  public  profession 
of  religion,  it  was  a  striking  spectacle  to  see  them  stand- 
ing in  a  crowd  in  the  broad  aisle  of  the  college  chapel, 
purified,  sanctified,  and  in  the  presence  of  all  their  fellow- 
Students  renouncing  sin,  and  solemnly  consecrating  them- 
selves to  God.  Seven  years  have  since  elapsed,  and 
they  are  in  his  service  now.  I  have  their  names  before 
me,  and  I  do  not  know  Ox"  one  who  does  not  continue 
faithful  to  his  Master  still." 

In  the  close  of  the  day  I  reached  Brattleborough.  A 
gentleman  had  been  taken  into  our  stage,  who  had  been 
overturned  in  his  way  from  Boston,  and  greatly  hurt. 
Mr.  Matheson  had  kindly  sent  me  word  that  I  could  get 
on  by  the  stages  so  as  to  be  in  time  at  Meredith ;  but  I 
soon  found  that  he  had  been  misinformed.  It  was  still 
very  difficult  to  obtain  from  the  coach-masters  any  thing 
like  certain  information  on  the  route  I  wished  to  take. 
Each  one  was  for  urging  his  coach,  though  it  would  take 
you  thirty  miles  out  of  your  road. 

On  the  morning  of  the  third,  I  started  again  for  Oxford 
Bridge.  The  coach  was  to  leave  at  three  o'clock,  but  I 
was  called  at  two  ;  and,  five  minutes  after,  I  was  sum- 
moned to  enter  it.  I  had  been  taught  to  reckon  on  this 
before.  The  ride  was  very  beautiful  and  varied.  Bel- 
lows Falls  made  a  striking  picture.  The  height  of  the 
fall  is  inconsiderable ;  but  the  river  dashes  down  through 
the  vast  masses  of  gray  granite  rock  in  noble  style. 
From  the  sides  of  the  cascade,  the  rocks,  which  have 
escaped  the  ruin,  stand  up  in  wild  and  abrupt  forms. 
The  pretty  village,  with  its  pretty  church,  and  two  or 
three  superior  cottages,  crown  the  scene.  It  is  both 
handsome  and  romantic.  This  was  ones  a  favourite  re- 
sort with  the  Indians  ;  they  came  to  fish,  and  to  while 
away  the  time,  charmed  by  the  beautiful  forms  and  mel-. 


so 


THE    DEARBORN. 


275 


i  but  as  to  all  the 
open  enmity, — the 
, — the  revival  took 
iptions,  it  took  the 
3rward,  the  time  ar- 
a  public  profession 
to  see  them  stand- 
the  college  chapel, 
3  of  all  their  fellow- 
consecrating  them- 
since  elapsed,  and 
their  names  before 
does  not  continue 

3rattleborough.  A 
ige,  who  had  been 

and  greatly  hurt, 
rd  that  I  could  get 
at  Meredith ;  but  I 
med.  It  was  still 
■masters  any  thing 

I  wished  to  take, 
ough  it  would  take 

id  again  for  Oxford 
hree  o'clock,  but  I 
after,  I  was  sum- 
to  reckon  on  this 
and  varied.  Bel- 
he  height  of  the 
hes  down  through 

in  noble  style, 
ocks,  which  have 
nd  abrupt  forms, 
urch,  and  two  or 
ene.     It  is  both 

3  a  favourite  re- 
sh,  and  to  while 
il  forms  and  mel-> 


odies  of  nature,  they  knew  not  why.  There  are  still  on 
some  rocks,  which  have  suffered  least  by  the  attrition  of 
the  waters  and  of  time,  a  few  efforts  to  represent  the 
human  countenance,  which  discover  more  skill  than  we 
usually  ascribe  to  them. 

Oxford  Bridge  received  us  before  nightfall.  The  inn 
at  which  I  rested  till  morning  is  among  the  best  I  have 
seen  for  cleanliness  and  comfort.  The  people  occupying 
it  were  decidedly  religious,  and  I  like  to  connect  the  pro- 
prieties of  life  with  true  religion. 

At  four  o'clock  I  was  again  in  the  stage.  I  had  been 
ready  some  time  ;  for  it  was  now  behind  the  hour  named ; 
but  it  was  on  a  crossroad,  and  not  exposed  to  competi- 
tion. A  very  heavy  fog  lay  on  the  ground  ;  and  being 
alone  in  the  coach,  I  had  difficulty  in  keeping  warm. 
The  sun  afterward  broke  out,  and  the  day  became  very 
hot.  I  found  that  the  stage  would  only  pass  within  ten 
miles  of  Meredith,  so  that  I  was  obhged  to  leave  it,  and 
seek  some  other  mode  of  transfer.  1  engaged  a  wagon 
and  its  owner  to  take  me ;  and  after  dining,  and  waiting 
the  pleasure,  or  leisure,  of  the  party,  we  moved  on  our 
way.  The  dearborn  in  which  I  was  conveyed  was  no 
place  for  enjoyment,  for  the  seat  was  so  small  that  we 
were  obliged  to  sit  on  each  other  in  turn,  and  the  road 
was  so  rugged  as  to  threaten  to  jerk  us  out  together ;  yet 
I  did  much  enjoy  the  ride.  We  wound  our  way  through 
granite  hills  and  rocks,  sprinkled  with  cedar  and  fir,  and 
disclosing  to  you,  in  succession  and  at  intervals,  the 
animated  river,  the  beautiful  bay,  and  the  expandf  d  lake, 
dotted  with  islets.  As  we  approached  nearer  to  the  lake, 
there  aro^e  insensibly  on  its  margin,  and  among  the 
trees,  the  village  to  which  I  was  bound.  It  looked  ex- 
ceedingly lovely  and  quiet  in  the  summer  lights  of  even- 
ing. It  seemed  a  delightful  retirement  for  an  association 
of  ministers  ;  and  reminded  me  forcibly  and  pleasantly  of 
Him  who,  with  his  disciples,  often  retreated  for  converse 
and  prayer  to  the  margin  of  Gennesaret. 

As  I  arrived,  many  persons  who  had  to  go  to  a  dis- 
tance were  leaving.     Still,  however,  the   evening,  Qt 


S76 


MEREDITH. 


I 


■iu 


candlelight  services  were  to  come.  But  as  some  of  the 
services  had  passed,  and  as  I  have  not  had  an  opportunity 
of  reporting  the  order  of  such  a  meeting  as  the  present, 
it  may  be  desirable  to  look  back  to  the  commencement. 

This  was  an  Association  of  the  brethren  and  churches 
of  New-Hampshire.  It  assembles  at  different  places  ; 
and  this  was  the  first  occasion  of  its  being  convened 
here.  It  had  been  feared  that  the  interest  was  too  weak 
to  afford  the  needful  accommodation ;  but  these  associa- 
tions, as  they  pass  from  place  to  place,  are  reputed  to 
carry  a  beneficial  influence  with  them  ;  and  there  was  a 
strong  desire,  on  the  part  of  the  people  and  pastor,  that 
It  should  be  held  at  Meredith,  as  a  means  of  advancing 
the  interests  of  religion.  They  met  in  a  noble  spirit  the 
claims  made  on  their  hospitality.  Every  house  was  open, 
and  every  house  was  full.  Two  or  three  families  had 
twelve,  eighteen,  and  twenty  guests.  The  inns  also 
were  full.  I  found  a  room  at  the  inn  at  which  I  alighted 
just  vacated ;  and  thinking  it  my  first  and  last  chance 
for  a  separate  accommodation,  I  engaged  it ;  but  I  was 
not  allowed  to  answer  any  charge  on  its  account. 

Let  me  also  remark,  in  passing,  that  the  general  cir- 
cumstances of  this  place  are  interesting.  The  church 
here  was  built  by  common  subscription,  and  was  to  be 
a  free  church ;  that  is,  op"  equally  to  the  use  of  all, 
whatever  their  religious  pe,  ion.  As  the  persons  who 
had  settled  here  were  mainiy  Jniversalists,  it  was  practi- 
cally theirs.  Some  efforts  were  made  by  the  Home 
Missionary  Soci*?ty  in  its  favour,  and  an  interest  was  ex- 
cited on  the  side  of  orthodox  opinion  and  true  religion. 
The  Congregationalists  have,  by  their  greater  numbers 
and  influence,  secured  it  to  themselves,  and  have  an  ex- 
cellent pastor  in  Mr.  Young.  The  church  under  his 
charge  is  only  ten  years  old ;  it  was  at  first  organized 
with  nine  members  ;  and  it  has  now  100,  with  an  adult 
attendance  of  400 ;  and  the  people  are  full  of  youthful 
zeal  and  activity.  There  are,  besides,  100  children  in 
the  Sabbath  school.  The  Universalists  reckon  still  about 
300,  and  meet  in  slack  numbers  at  the  court-house<  The 
total  population  is  not  above  1,000< 


11. •  I 


ASSOCIATION. 


277 


But  as  some  of  the 
)t  had  an  opportunity 
iting  as  the  present, 
\e  commencement, 
ethren  and  churches 
at  different  places  ; 
its  being  convened 
;erest  was  too  weak 
;  but  these  associa- 
ace,  are  reputed  to 
1 ;  and  there  was  a 
pie  and  pastor,  that 
leans  of  advancing 
in  a  noble  spirit  the 
ery  house  was  open, 
three  families  had 
s.      The  inns  also 
at  which  I  alighted 
rst  and  last  chance 
aged  it ;  but  I  was 
its  account, 
at  the  general  cir- 
ting.     The  church 
on,  and  was  to  be 
to  the  use  of  all, 
A.S  the  persons  who 
ists,  it  was  practi- 
ade  by  the  Home 
an  interest  was  ex- 
and  true  religion, 
greater  numbers 
1,  and  have  an  ex- 
church   under  his 
at  first  organized 
00,  with  an  adult 
e  full  of  youthful 
100  children  in 
i  reckon  still  about 
court-house^   The 


The  ministers  and  members  of  the  Association  began 
to  arrive  on  the  Monday  evening,  and  held  a  concert  of 
prayer.  The  regular  sittings  were  to  commence  the 
following  morning,  and  to  last  for  three  days.  Early 
prayer-meetings  were  to  be  held  on  each  morning  at  half 
f    past  five. 

On  Tuesday,  at  eight  o'clock,  the  business  began.  A 
Moderator  was  chosen ;  and  sundry  committees  were  ap- 
pointed to  dispose  of  business  that  might  anse.  At 
eleven,  a  sermon  was  preached.  Two  other  public 
meetings  were  held,  and  these,  with  the  duties  of  the 
committees,  occupied  the  rest  of  the  day. 

On  the  Wednesday  morning  they  met  again  at  eight 
o'clock  for  business  ;  at  eleven,  the  claims  of  the  Educa- 
tion Society,  and  at  three,  those  of  the  Bible  Society, 
were  pleaded  by  suitable  statements  and  speeches.  In 
the  evening,  an  address  was  made  in  favour  of  the  Sun- 
day School  Union  and  the  Peace  Society,  by  their  agents 
respectively.  I  was  present  at  these  latter  services ; 
and  though  on  interesting  subjects,  they  were  not  very 
engaging. 

On  Thursday,  we  met  at  eight  o'clock  for  business 
again.  Some  minor  questions  were  disposed  of.  A  re- 
port was  brought  up  on  the  state  of  religion,  wliich  wore 
an  encouraging  aspect,  while  it  implored  more  decided 
help.  Resolutions  were  passed  in  favour  of  the  Peace 
Society,  and  condemnatory  of  slavery.  At  ten,  the 
meeting  in  favour  of  the  Home  Missionary  Society  was 
held.  Di.  Peters  made  a  short  statement,  and  called  on 
me,  as  having  arrived  from  the  West,  to  support  him.  I 
was  constrained  to  obey  the  call,  and  to  lead  the  meeting 
in  prayer.  A  subscription,  in  a  liberal  spirit,  was  then 
begun  in  favour  of  the  Society.  Many  who  subscribed 
in  their  own  name,  now  did  so  in  the  name  of  their 
children;  and  Mr.  Matheson  was  requested  to  offer 
prayer  for  them.  The  meeting  was  longer  than  usual, 
but  none  were  weary  of  it.  It  was  of  a  highly  exhilara^- 
ting  and  pious  character;  and  certainly  served  the  in- 
terests of  an  admirable  Society. 

•24 


\^\ 


;  ' 


278 


IMPRESSIONS. 


I 


At  two  o'clocli,  Dr.  Cogswell  deliverec!  an  address  in 
behalf  of  the  Missionary  Society ;  and  at  three,  Mr.  Barn- 
ham  preached,  by  previous  appointment,  before  the  Aux- 
iliary of  the  Home  Mission  Society.  At  the  close  of 
these  exercises,  the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Supper  was 
administered.  I  was  called  upon,  supported  by  Dr. 
Tucker  and  Mr.  Matheson,  to  preside,  and  there  was  no 
refusal  admitted.  The  area  and  aisles  were  full  of  de- 
vout communicants  ;  and  nearly  one  hundred  and  fifty 
pastors  were  present.  It  was  a  delightfully  solemn  ex- 
ercise ;  and  would  have  been  more  so  to  me  had  my  en- 
gagements been  less  responsible. 

The  whole  was  to  close  by  a  sermon  in  the  evening, 
and  I  was  urged  to  preach.  But  I  was  already  much 
exhausted,  and  entreated  that  the  service  might  rest  with 
Dr.  Tucker.  Many  persons  regarded  the  sacramental 
engagement  as  the  last  best  thing,  and  departed ;  and  a 
thunder-storm  came  on  with  rain,  so  that  the  evening  at- 
tendance was  not  large.  The  sermon  was  excellent  and 
impressive  ;  truly  orthodox  and  strictly  practical.  It  was 
an  excellent  close.  The  Governor  of  the  State  and 
Judge  Darling  attended  most  of  the  services. 

From  this  summary  of  particulars,  it  may  be  in- 
ferr'>i  that  this  meeting  of  the  Association  was  highly 
interesting  and  profitable,  especially  as  it  approached 
the  termination.  Those  who  were  speaking  of  it,  in  com- 
parison with  similar  meetings  of  the  same  body,  expressed 
themselves  with  emphatic  pleasure.  And  this  evidence 
was  by  no  means  limited  to  the  effect  of  one  or  two  feli- 
citous meetings ;  it  was  to  be  found  in  the  temper  of 
the  people.  They  were  certainly  much  under  the  influ- 
ence of  pious  sentiment.  It  was  delightful  to  observe 
that  the  early  prayer-meetings  were  attended  with  uni- 
form avidity ;  from  300  to  500  persons  being  present  on 
those  exercises.  It  was  equally  delightful  to  find  that, 
for  the  time,  the  very  inn  in  which  I  tarried  was  convert- 
ed into  a  sanctuary ;  and  all  its  chambers  were  made  in 
succession  to  echo  with  the  voice  of  solitary  or  social 
prayer  and  praise.     At  night  I  sunk  to  rest,  and  in  the 


IMPRESSIONS. 


279 


i 


I 


morning  I  awoke,  with  the  strains  of  supplication  on  my 
ear.  The  pastors  diacovered  a  large  measure  of  piety 
and  charity  ;  and  they  were,  without  doubt,  strengthened 
in  its  expression  by  the  example  of  the  father  of  the  As- 
sociation, Dr.  Church. 

Indeed,  when  I  look  back,  and  consider  what  was  the 
spirit  of  the  people,  and  what  the  occasions  for  its  exer- 
cise, I  rather  wonder  that  the  results  were  not  greater 
than  they  were.  And  I  deliberately  think,  that  they 
would  have  been  of  a  ntost  remarkable  character  had 
there  been  less  to  do,  and  had  one  definite  object  been 
before  the  people.  But,  instead  of  this,  the  objects  claim- 
ing attention  in  the  short  space  of  time  were  truly  per- 
plexing for  nun.ber.  Recently,  all  the  great  societies 
have  had  a  natural  desire  to  obtain  notice  at  these  con- 
vocations of  the  churches.  They,  therefore,  one  after 
another,  have  been  grafted  on  to  these  meetings ;  while 
they  have  to  dispose  of  the  interests  and  business  of  the 
Association.  What  is  local  and  familiar  is  sacrificed  to 
what  is  general  and  vast ;  but  neither  the  home  nor  the 
foreign  interests  were  administered  so  efficiently.  In 
this  instance,  though  the  business  of  the  Association  was 
not  above  an  average,  it  could  not  be  justly  regarded  ; 
and  so  many  public  societies  sought  to  be  heard,  that 
they  were  in  danger  of  being  heard  and  forgotten. 

The  direct  effect  on  the  people,  which  is  the  point  to 
which  I  would  particularly  allude,  was  certainly  unfa- 
vourable. The  rapidity  with  which  their  attention  was 
called  from  object  to  object,  might  afford  passing  amuse> 
ment,  but  it  neutralized  impression.  I  never  felt  myself 
much  more  in  a  whirl  of  business  and  of  bustle  than  in 
this  retired  village  ;  and  ybu  well  know  how  very  con- 
trary even  religious  bustle  is  to  religious  influence.  This 
people  show,  by  their  protracted  meetings,  that  they  can 
appreciate  the  importance  of  keeping  one  only  object  be- 
fore the  attention  for  a  considerable  time,  and  this  princi- 
ple must  be  applied  to  correct  the  evils  which  a  happy 
excess  of  business  has  brought  upon  the  Associations. 

Because  these  variousi  and  bu^tUng  claims  had  allowed 


280 


EXCURSION. 


!■    in 


fli 


I'iif 


1 

,    1 

1 

.1      : 

one  such  little  opportunity  of  mingling  in  quiet  with  the 
brethren,  I  requested  that  we  might  meet  to  breakfast, 
and  hold  a  conference  on  the  Friday  morning.  This  was 
very  cheerfully  acceded  to ;  and  about  twenty  of  the  pas- 
tors gave  us  the  meeting.  I  need  only  remark  here,  that 
this  conference  was  affectionate,  candid,  and  pleasant  in 
the  highest  degree  ;  and  to  us,  as  a  delegation,  certainly 
the  most  important.  We  closed  it  in  prayer,  and  parted 
with  many,  many  fraternal  greetings. 

We  were  not  to  leave  till  noon  by  the  stage,  and  Dr. 
Crosby,  whose  kindness  to  us  has  been  cordial  and  un- 
ceasing, proposed  an  excursion  to  the  hills.  This  was 
most  agreeable  to  me,  as  I  could  not  endure  to  quit  so 
enchanting  a  spot  without  some  acquaintance  with  it. 
Time  was  precious,  and  away  we  went.  But  it  would 
require  sheets  to  report  to  you  what  we  saw.  Let  me 
hasten  over  it.  Suppose  yourself  to  have  made,  gradu- 
ally, an  ascent  of  some  thousand  or  eleven  hundred  feet, 
and  to  have  attained  a  standing  on  a  bold  eminence,  com- 
manding all  the  objects  beneath  and  around  you ;  and 
yet  not  so  high  as  to  destroy  their  importance.  Now  the 
finest  objects  in  nature,  and  on  their  most  magnificent 
scale,  are  before  you.  The  hill  on  which  you  stand 
runs  off  in  slopes,  and  is  finely  clothed.  Behind  that 
swell  which  rises  at  its  foot,  is  almost  hidden  the  little 
village  of  Meredith,  chiefly  detected  by  the  gray  smoke 
which  comes  curling  up  from  the  trees  around  it.  There 
are  the  two  beautiful  bays  which  lie  before  it.  And  then, 
over  the  extensive  foreground,  are  eight  or  nine  lovely 
lakes,  of  various  form  and  dimensions,  separated  and 
adorned  by  the  pine-clad  rocks  and  hills,  which  cast  their 
dark  shadows  over  their  peaceful  and  lucid  waters.  And 
there,  to  the  right,  is  the  lake  Winnipiseogee,  the  mother 
of  tliese  waters,  spreading  itself  out  in  all  its  magnifi- 
cence ;  and,  large  as  it  is,  appearing  the  larger  for  being 
partly  concealed  by  the  bold  projection  of  the  hills.  It 
is  studded  by  innumerable  islands,  some  of  them  show- 
ing only  a  rocky  pinnacle,  and  many  of  them  having  a 
diameter  of  one  or  two  miles.     The  eye  can  hardly  ri&o 


LOWELL. 


281 


a;  in  quiet  with  the 
neet  to  breakfast, 
orning.  This  was 
twenty  of  the  pas- 
r  remark  here,  that 
id,  and  pleasant  in 
legation,  certainly 
prayer,  and  parted 

the  stage,  and  Dr. 

in  cordial  and  un- 

hills.     This  was 

3ndure  to  quit  so 

iiaintance  with  it. 

It.     But  it  would 

ve  saw.     Let  me 

lave  made,  gradu- 

Bven  hundred  feet, 

Id  eminence,  com- 

around  you ;  and 

rtance.     Now  the 

most  magnificent 

which  you  stand 

led.     Behind  that 

hidden  the  little 

the  gray  smoke 

round  it.     There 

tre  it.     And  then. 

It  or  nine  lovely 

separated  and 

,  which  cast  their 

cid  waters.    And 

ogee,  the  mother 

n  all  its  magnifi- 

larger  for  being 

of  the  hills.     It 

e  of  them  show- 

f  them  having  a 

can  haxdly  riao 


from  this  scene  ;  but  when  it  does,  it  finds  every  thing  in 
perfect  harmony.  Here  the  lands  run  down  in  fine 
slopes,  and  shoot  away  into  the  vast  distance,  forming  as 
noble  a  vista  as  can  be  seen.  Everywhere  else  the  land 
rises  and  falls  most  admirably  ;  gathering  strength  with 
the  distance,  valley  after  valley,  and .  hill  after  hill,  till 
the  hills  resolve  themselves  into  th6  mountains,  and  the 
gray  mountains  and  fair  blue  sky  perfect  the  wonderful 
picture.  Conceive  of  all  this,  and  much  more  than  this, 
with  all  the  improvements  which  sun  and  cloud,  light  and 
shadow,  can  give  to  it,  and  then  say  whether  it  is  not  won- 
derful !  But  words  are  poor  things  here.  It  is  the  very 
finest  thing  I  have  seen  in  New-England,  and  I  must  not 
forget  it.  We  were  greatly  urged  to  stay  here  over  the 
Sabbath  ;  and  it  was  with  much  regret  that  we  yielded  to 
a  sense  of  duty,  in  parting  so  hastily  with  such  a  spot, 
and  with  such  friends. 


LETTER  XKIV. 

My  dear  Frienh, 

About  one,  on  the  6th,  we  left,  as  intended,  for  Con- 
cord, on  our  way  to  Lowell ;  the  brethren.  Bliss,  East- 
man, Baird,  and  Peters,  being  cf  our  company.  We  ar- 
rived in  pleasant  time,  and  found  others  of  our  friends 
here.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Boutelle,  the  pastor  of  the  principal 
church,  would  gladly  have  detained  us  over  the  Sabbath ; 
but  we  were  obliged  to  deny  ourselves.  Religion  has 
thriven  in  this  place,  and  it  would  have  been  gratifying  to 
have  witnessed  its  effects.  I  made  myself,  in  some  de- 
gree, master  of  it  by  conversation,  and  this  was  the  niost 
that  was  allowed  by  the  pressure  of  other  dalrhs. 

The  next  morning  we  proceeded  vvith  Dr.  Peters.    He 
was  about  to  go  to  Lowell,  to  plead  the  home  mission 

24* 


■f'' 


S82 


COTTON  FACTORY. 


N,  ^^ 


'    ! 
'  'i 


1  t 


l!    • 


cause,  and  I  had  determined  to  attend  him.  Mr.  Ma- 
theson  stopped  for  the  Sabbath  at  Derry.  On  this  busy 
hne  we  found  some  outside  seats,  and  improved  coaches  ; 
and,  after  a  pleasant  ride  by  the  Mammoth  road,  through 
a  wild  and  interesting  country,  we  arrived  in  time  to  take 
our  seats  at  the  la/ile  tfhdte  of  a  good  and  commodious 
inn.  We  sought  the  brethren  in  the  afternoon,  and  were 
urged  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Twining  to  make  his  house  our 
temporary  home.  President  Day  and  Professor  Silliman, 
both  of  New-Haven,  and  the  brethren  of  the  town,  did  us 
the  favour  of  a  call,  and  we  made  our  arrangements  for 
the  ensuing  Sabbath. 

Lowell  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Concord 
and  Merrimack  rivers.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  manufac- 
turing towns  in  the  whole  Union,  anvi  supplies  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  instances  of  rapidity  in  growth.  Twenty 
years  ago  this  spot  was  a  wilderness.  Then  a  small  fac- 
tory was  built,  which  cost  only  3,000  dollars.  There  are 
now  more  than  twenty  large  mills,  five  stories  high,  with 
3,000  looms  and  8,500  spindles,  upwards  of  5,000  oper- 
atives, and  a  capital  exceeding  six  millions  and  a  half  of 
dollars.  The  total  population  is  13,000.  The  water- 
power  is  very  fine,  and  skilfully  applied  by  means  of  res- 
ervoirs and  canals ;  it  is  capable  of  working  fifty  more 
mills.  The  advantage  to  the  comfort  and  appearance  of 
the  town  in  the  possession  of  this  power  is  very  great,  as 
it  allows  a  vast  business  to  go  forward  without  the  nui- 
sance of  universal  smoke.  This  class  of  objects  is  rare 
in  this  country,  though  common  in  ours,  and  I  was  inter- 
ested in  a  new  course  of  observation. 

It  might  be  expected  in  this  case,  as  in  every  similar 
one,  that  many  fruitful  causes  of  evil  would  come  into 
action  ;  but  it  was  pleasing  to  find  a  corrective  and  antag- 
onist power  brought  universally  and  successfully  to  act 
against  them.  Especially  th^re  ifl*..one  feature  in  the 
state  of  this  community  that  js  pecuti^ir  and  hazardous. 
There  are  not  less  than  4,000  young  women  attached  to 
the  mills,  who  have  been  drawn  here  by  the  hope  of  re- 
ward, abstracted  from  all  the  safeguards  of  their  familiesi 


i 


COTTON   FACTORY. 


283 


nd  him.  Mr.  Ma- 
rry. On  this  busy 
improved  coaches ; 
imoth  road,  through 
ived  in  time  to  take 
i  and  commodious 
ifternoon,  and  were 
lake  his  house  our 
Professor  Silhman, 
i  of  the  town,  did  us 
ir  arrangements  for 

ice  of  the  Concord 
le  largest  manufac- 
suppUes  one  of  the 
in  growth.  Twenty 
Then  a  small  fac- 
dollars.  There  are 
e  stories  high,  with 
ards  of  5,000  oper- 
ilions  and  a  half  of 
,000.  The  water- 
id  by  means  of  res- 
working  fifty  more 
and  appearance  of 
^er  is  very  great,  as 
rd  without  the  nui- 
3  of  objects  is  rare 
:s,  and  I  was  inter- 

is  in  every  similar 
would  come  into 
)rrective  and  antag- 
mccessfully  to  act 
)ne  feature  in  the 
ir  and  hazardous, 
vomen  attached  to 
by  the  hope  of  re- 
Is  of  their  families} 


I 


and  transferred  suddenly  from  the  utmost  retirement  to 
promiscuous  society.  They  are  mostly  tlie  daughters  of 
farmers,  and  have  laudable  intentions  in  coming.  The 
family  has  every  thing  but  ready  money,  and  this  is  a 
method  of  getting  it.  Many  of  them  are  well  educated ; 
they  might  teach  at  school ;  but  they  prefer  this  employ, 
as  it  gives  them  better  remuneration.  Others  thirst  for 
education ;  they  come  for  six  months,  and  then  disap- 
pear ;  and  again  they  come,  and  again  they  disappear. 
In  the  one  instance  they  are  procuring  the  costs  of  edu- 
cation, and  in  the  other  education  itself.  They  bring 
with  them  a  sens<f  of  independence  and  rectitude,  and 
this  disposes  them  to  adopt  means  which  contribute 
greatly  to  their  preservation.  Instances  of  sad  defection 
and  vice  will  of  course  occur,  but  they  are  remarkably 
"  few  and  far  between."  The  steady  girls  who  work  in 
a  mill  band  together  as  a  sort  of  a  club,  and  keep  up  a 
sense  of  honour  through  the  establishment.  If  any  one 
is  suspected  of  bad  conduct,  she  is  reprimanded  and  sus- 
pended ;  and  if  bad  conduct  is  proved  against  her,  she  is 
reported  to  the  managing  party,  and  a  petition  is  pre- 
sented for  her  removal.  In  an  unquestionable  case,  they 
would  leave  the  mill  if  the  prayer  of  the  petition  was 
refused. 

In  many  cases,  where  the  evils  are  thus  escaped,  great 
good  arises  to  the  individual.  Placed  in  new  circum- 
stances, where  they  are  called  to  act  for  themselves  for 
the  first  time,  great  energy,  and  sometimes  great  eleva- 
tion of  moral  character,  is  elicited.  The  means  of  reli- 
gion, too,  are  supplied  to  them  with  greater  advantage. 
Many  are  brought  under  its  influence,  and  those  who  are, 
are  furnished  with  opportunities  for  benevolent  and  reli- 
gious services,  which  they  could  not  have  had  in  their 
original  and  isolated  circumstances.  There  are,  of  this 
number  of  young  women,  for  instance,  about  1,000  who 
are  united  to  Christian  churches,  and  about  the  same 
number  who  are  in  regular  attendance  on  religious  means. 

It  is,  however,  generally  admitted,  that  whatever  may 
bej^the  advantages,  these  occupations  mostly  disqualify 


■•;m 


284 


COTTON  FACTORY. 


If. 

Ml 


them  for  the  quiet  duties  and  cares  of  domestic  life.  In 
fact,  this  must,  in  a  measure,  be  the  effect,  fur  there  is 
nothing  to  exercise  the  domestic  virtues ;  and  it  is  likely 
that  many  may  gain  a  taste  for  so.''flty,  and  appearance, 
and  independent  action,  which  the,  (nay  not  afterward 
overcome.  The  dress,  indeed,  of  the  whole  body,  when 
not  employed  in  the  mill,  was  remarkable.  It  was  not 
amiss,  usually,  in  itself;  but  it  was  above  their  state  and 
occupation.  One  was  surprised  to  see  them  appear  in 
silks,  with  scarfs,  veils,  and  parasols. 

The  care  which  is  shown  to  their  welfare  and  safety 
by  the  heads  of  the  factories,  is  also  very  worthy  of  praise. 
Boarding-houses  are  built  for  them  by  the  corporations 
or  companies.  Persons  of  good  character  are  put  into 
them,  and  the  rate  of  payment  is  determined  for  them. 
These  housekeepers  are  tenants-at-will ;  rules  are  laid 
down  for  their  conduct,  and  transgression  is  followed  by 
expulsion.  They  give  and  receive  certificates  of  charac^ 
ter  with  the  young  women. 

The  community  at  large  are  alive  to  the  possible  evils 
of  their  situation,  and  watch  and  labour  to  counteract 
them.  Because  temperance  here  has  to  encounter  strong 
temptation,  it  has  taken  »  most  decided  form.  There  is  . 
not  only  the  usual  Temperance  Society ;  in  addition  to  it 
is  "  The  Total  Abstinence  Society,"  whose  pledge  ex- 
tends to  "  wine,  cordials,  and  strong  beer."  This,  too, 
is  the  favourite  society;  it  has  1,900  members.  I  do 
not  now  judge  the  principles  on  which  it  acts ;  of  course 
its  influence  must  be  great  in  promoting  the  sobriety  of 
the  town.  There  is  also  a  considerable  confederation 
here,  under  the  denomination  of  '^  The  Lyceum."  It  is 
a  society  enrolled  for  moral  and  literary  purposes.  There 
are  reading-rooms,  books,  and  weekly  lectures,  to  meet 
the  one  branch ;  and  for  the  preservation  of  the  public 
morals  there  are  five  committees  appointed,  each .  com- 
posed of  not  less  than  five  members.  Their  duty  is  to 
take  cognizance  of  five  vices — intemperance,  profanity, 
Sabbath-breaking,  gaming,  and  lewdness.  They  visit, 
fixamine,  and  confer  confidentially  for  Ihis  purpose,  and 


I 


SACRAMENT. 


285 


adopt  such  means  as  their  discretion  may  sug^rost.  Tho 
lectures  are  made  to  assist  this  object. 

On  the  Sabbath  morning,  I  worshipped  at  Mr.  Twi- 
ning's  church.  It  is  of  fair  size,  and  well  attended.  Pres- 
ident Day  preached,  on  the  anxieties  of  parents  for  tho 
best  interests  of  their  children. 

In  the  afternoon,  I  attended  a  communion  service  at  Mr. 
Blanchard's.  Members  are  admitted  at  this  .service,  and 
I  was  glad  to  observe  the  order.  We  began,  as  usual, 
by  singing  and  prayer.  The  persons  to  be  received  were 
then  called  out  by  the  pastor.  There  were  eleven ;  six 
by  letter,  and  five  on  profession.  They  came  as  they 
were  called,  from  their  seats,  and  stood  in  the  centre  aislo 
before  the  minister.  The  Confession  of  Faith  was  then 
read,  and  their  assent  taken  to  it.  Then  three  persons, 
who  had  not  been  baptized,  submitted  to  that  ordinance, 
in  our  usual  mode.  Afterward  the  Church  Covenant 
was  read,  and  their  assent  asked ;  and  when  the  portion 
of  it  which  pledges  the  church  as  a  party  was  read,  all 
the  member  rose  and  stood,  to  express  their  assent. 
Prayer  was  offered  on  their  account,  and  they  took  their 
places.  An  address  was  then  given,  and  prayer  offered, 
followed  by  the  distribution  of  the  bread;  and  address 
and  prayer  were  renewed,  and  followed  by  the  distribu- 
tion  of  the  wine.  And  the  whole  closed  by  a  short  ad- 
dress, prayer,  and  the  benediction. 

I  should  think  not  less  than  500  persons  were  at 
the  table.  Only  two  deacons  were  employed  in  the  dis- 
tribution; they  have  eight  plates  and  cups  under  their 
care.  One  deacon  attended  on  the  pastor.  I  was  struck 
by  the  great  excess  of  females  present ;  I  should  think 
they  were  as  seven  to  one.  This  is  accounted  for  by 
upwards  of  200  of  the  members  being  composed  of  the 
young  women  of  the  factories.  Mr.  Blanchard  spoke  of 
them  as  being  exemplary  and  useful.  They  laboured 
with  much  advantage  in  the  Sabbath  schools,  as  they  have 
thus  many  of  the  younger  girls  under  their  care.  In 
all  these  schools  there  are  no  less  than  3,500  children, 
and  1,500  of  them  are  factory  girls. 


286 


LOWELL. 


This  is  the  church  of  which  much  has  been  said  in 
America,  and  recently  even  across  the  Atlantic,  relative 
to  the  disuse  of  wine  at  the  Lord's  table.  It  has  mostly 
been  said  in  mistake  or  exaggeration.  The  fact  is,  that 
there  is  in  this  community  an  "  Abstinence  Society ;"  and 
the  matter  has  been  discussed  ;  but  the  utmost  that  was 
done,  was  to  resolve  "  that  no  wine  should  be  used  which 
had  alcohol  in  it."  In  practice,  the  effect  has  been  to 
use  a  harmless  preparation,  which  they  call  wine^  and 
with  which  the  most  scrupulous  are  satisfied.  To  my 
taste,  it  was  like  one  of  our  British  wines  diluted  with 
water.  I  have  confidence  in  the  excellent  pastor,  that 
he  would  not  break  up  the  peace  of  a  society  by  such  a 
question,  or  establish  terms  of  communion  which  Christ 
has  not  enforced. 

In  the  evening  I  preached  to  the  United  Congregations, 
and  a  collection  was  taken  up,  as  the  phrase  is,  on 
behalf  of  the  Home  Missionary  Society.  Dr.  Peters 
was  in  the  pulpit,  and  made  a  short  statement  on  the 
subject.  There  was  a  large  attendance,  and  by  a 
serious  people. 

The  morning,  of  the  8th  I  spent  in  calls,  and  the  ex- 
ploration of  the  town.  It  has  an  animated  and  pleasant 
appearance.  Everywhere  the  signs  of  improvement  are 
abundant.  The  streets  were  at  first  lined  with  wood 
cabins  ;  these  are  quickly  vanishing  before  the  smart  and 
lofty  red  brick  house  and  shop ;  and  where  they  still 
linger,  they  offer  to  the  eye  a  singular  contrast.  I  visit- 
ed the  principal  factories.  They  are  very  like  our  own ; 
but  have  a  cleaner  aspect,  from  the  absence  of  smoke, 
Their  machinery  looks  heavier  than  ours,  from  the  cir^ 
cumstance  of  wood  being  employed  instead  of  iron  for 
the  stronger  parts.  Many  persons  are  found  here  from 
the  mother  land  ;  and  the  agents,  or  foremen,  are  mostly 
Scotch  or  English. 

Professor  Silliman  was  tarrying  in  this  town,  to  deliver 
a  course  of  lectures  on  Geology.  He  kindly  invited  me 
to  a  private  view  of  his  specimens  and  drawings.  They 
were  good  and  various,  and  a  few  of  them  exquisite, 


lip  sE  Swi 


ih  has  been  said  in 
he  Atlantic,  relative 
ible.  It  has  mostly 
The  fact  is,  that 
lence  Society ;"  and 
the  utmost  that  was 
lould  be  used  which 
I  effect  has  been  to 
hey  call  wine^  and 
satisfied.  To  my 
wines  diluted  with 
:cellent  pastor,  that 
a  society  by  such  a 
Lunion  which  Christ 

lited  Congregations, 
the  phrase  is,  on 
ciety.  Dr.  Peters 
t  statement  on  the 
idance,   and   by   a 

calls,  and  the  ex- 
tnated  and  pleasant 
>f  improvement  are 
It  lined  with  wood 
efore  the  smart  and 
d  where  they  still 

contrast.  I  visit-< 
very  like  our  own ; 
ibsence  of  smoke, 

ours,  from  the  ciiw 
instead  of  iron  for 
re  found  here  from 
oremen,  are  mostly 

his  town,  to  deliver 
J  kindly  invited  me 
1  drawings.     They 
them  excjuisi^e, 


LECTURE. 


287 


tn  the  evening  I  met  the  Professor  to  tea,  at  Mr. 
lEdson's,  an  Episcopal  clergyman,  of  liberal  views  and 
pious  character.  Here  was  the  church  and  the  parson- 
age all  in  English  style.  We  had  pleasant  intercourse, 
and  then  adjourned  to  the  lecture-room.  Dr.  Silliman 
was  to  deliver  his  first  lecture  this  evening.  The  sub- 
ject was  "  Primitive  Rocks."  He  has  excellent  quali- 
ties for  a  popular  lecturer ;  fluent,  simple,  animated,  and 
gentlemanly.  All  could  understand,  and  all  were  inter- 
ested. There  were  about  500  persons  present.  Ten 
lectures  were  to  be  given  ;  and  the  charge  for  the  series 
Was  one  dollar  and  a  half. 

On  the  following  morning  1  took  leave  of  the  friends 
here,  at  eight  o'clock,  for  Andover.  Professor  Silliman 
called,  and  obligingly  gave  me  an  introduction  to  his 
family  at  New-Haven,  in  case  of  his  not  having  returned. 
An  Englishman,  also,  foreman  of  the  machine  factory, 
who  had  heard  me  on  the  Sabbath,  came  to  say  farewell, 
and  put  thirteen  dollars  into  my  hand.  He  remark- 
ed, he  had  been  putting  it  by  for  some  good  use,  and 
he  would  like  to  have  it  given  to  a  society  in  the  old 
country. 

Nothing  worthy  of  note  occurred  on  the  way,  except 
that  w6  were  overtaken  with  one  of  the  most  sudden  and 
Violent  storms  which  I  had  witnessed.  We  had  called 
to  the  coachman  to  stop,  and  look  to  the  luggage,  and  get 
the  curtains  closed  round  us ;  but  he  drove  on.  The 
driving  rain  fell  in  sheets,  so  that  before  I  could  get  the 
curtains  fastened  on  my  side,  I  was  wet  through.  My 
predicament  had  at  least  the  charm  of  novelty :  for  it  is 
no  usual  or  easy  thing  to  get  completely  wet  within  a 
stagecoach.  What  was  quite  as  bad,  my  portmanteau 
and  dressing-case  were  once  more  soaked  through ;  an 
evil  which  a  minute's  attention  Would  have  prevented. 
The  drivers  generally  take  little  cafe  of  the  luggage. 
On  many  of  the  lines  the  proprietors  give  notice  that 
they  will  not  be  responsible  for  it ;  and  this  is  equal  to 
an  advertisement  to  their  men  to  neglect  it,  and  to  the 
robber  to  prowl  for  it. 


I' 


288 


ANDOVER. 


i  > ; 


J:        I 
!  S  '        ! 


^':1ii 


1 1 


:t    ^ 


:        1             ' 

1   ^ 

i: 

li'ikiii 

Happily,  I  was  near  to  Andover  when  the  storm  came 
on,  and  on  reaching  the  dwelhng  of  Dr.  Woods,  I  at  I 
once  found  the  kindest  reception,  and  the  opportunity  of 
relieving  myself  of  wet  garments.     While  I  was  in  my  I 
dressing-room,  one  of  the  most  singular  claps  of  thunder 
broke  on  us  that  I  ever  heard.     The  rain  had  ceased, 
but  the  heavens  were  still  heavy.     It  was  just  over  us. 
There  was  no  rumbling  or  rolling  either  before  or  after  | 
it ;  it  was  just  one  clap,  resembling,  only  so  much  more 
powerful,  the   discharge  of  a  tremendous  cannon.     It 
shook  the  house  and  the  ground  ;  and  within  half  a  mile 
of  us,  it  struck  a  large  tree  adjoining  a  house,  split  it, 
and  shattered  all  the  windows  of  the  dwelling. 

You  cannot  well  conceive  of  a  spot  more  eligible  for 
its  purposes  than  is  that  occupied  by  the  Institutions  of 
Andover.  It  is  a  fine  piece  of  headland,  embracing 
about  160  acres,  and  dwelling  in  hght  and  air.  On  I 
looking  down  its  slopes,  in  one  direction,  you  see  the 
pretty  village  crouching  among  the  trees,  and  showing 
here  and  there  its  white  gables  and  turrets.  And  beyond 
it,  and  all  around  you,  is  spread  a  fine  and  extensive 
country,  beautified  by  hills,  rich  with  woodlands,  and 
animated  by  cultivation.  It  is  enclosed  by  the  outline 
formed  of  the  Temple  Hills,  the  Blue  Hills,  and  the 
Monadnoc,  some  of  them  standing  away  at  a  distance 
of  forty  and  sixty  miles. 

The  whole  of  this  elevated  and  commanding  platform 
is  in  the  possession  of  the  trustees,  and  this  allows  them 
to  keep  it  select.  It  is  appropriated  to  its  uses  with 
much  advantage.  On  the  right  hand  side  of  the  road, 
and  receding  from  it,  are  the  dwellings  of  the  officers 
and  professors,  and  the  Mansion  House,  or  Hotel.  All 
these  are  detached ;  of  considerable  size ;  with  double 
fronts,  fore-courts,  and  gardens,  and  composing  good 
elevations.  On  the  left  hand,  and  therefore  in  front  of 
these  dwellings,  is  an  extensive  opening  of  many  acres, 
rising  on  the  eye,  laid  down  in  grass  and  gravel  walks, 
and  planted  with  fine  trees,  and  kept  in  a  state  of  pres- 
ervation very  uncommon  here.     At  the  head  of  this 


INSTITUTIONS . 


289 


verdant  and  shady  area  is  placed  the  Theological  InstitUr 
lion,  composed  of  three  parts ;  a  handsome  chapel  fiUing 
the  centre,  and  two  colleges  becoming  the  wings.  On 
the  one  side  there  is  the  Phillips  Academy,  and  on  the 
other  the  Classical  School,  and  the  dwelling  of  a  pro- 
fessor ;  the  angles  are  all  left  open,  and  the  eye  takes  in 
the  distant  landscape.  The  entire  aspect  of  these  ob- 
jects is  very  grateful  to  the  eye  ;  and  the  finish  and 
order  of  the  estate,  and  its  sensible  adaptation  to  its 
proposed  end,  make  it  as  grateful  to  the  mind,  and  secure 
its  approbation. 

The  origin  of  this  extensive  foundation  is  remarkable, 
and  perhaps  I  may  not  have  a  better  occasion  to  refer  to 
it.  Dr.  Spring,  the  father,  I  believe,  of  the  present  Dr. 
Spring,  of  New- York,  was  pastor  of  a  church  at  New- 
buryport.  Some  of  his  people  at  that  time  were  very 
prosperous  in  business.  He  was  of  a  generous  mind, 
and  rejoiced  in  their  prosperity ;  and  he  was  of  a  pious 
and  lofty  mind,  and  desired  to  stimulate  them  to  propor- 
tionate exertion.  There  were  two  especially  with  whom 
he  did  not  labour  in  vain,  Messrs.  Bartlett  and  Brown. 
Having  prepared  his  way,  he  got  a  meeting  with  them, 
and  applied  to  Mr.  Woods,  now  Dr.  Woods,  of  Andover, 
to  attend  it.  They  engaged  in  free  conversation.  It 
was  admitted  that  something  ought  to  be  done ;  they 
were  ready  to  do  something :  what,  among  many  claims, 
would  it  be  best  to  do  ?  Dr.  Spring  inquired  what  they 
would  like  to  do  1  Would  they  like  an  Academy  ?  It 
was  much  wanted,  for  the  use  of  the  ministry.  They 
were  quite  willing.  How  should  they  begin  ?  He  sug- 
gested, that  they  might  make  a  commencement  by  secu- 
ring Mr.  Woods,  who,  with  the  aid  of  a  preceptor,  might 
take  six  young  men.  "Well,"  said  Mr.  Brown,  "I  will 
give  10,000  dollars." — ^  Why,"  said  Mr.  bartlett,  "did  you 
not  say  20,000,  and  I  would  too  ?"  Before  they  parted, 
Mr.  Bartlett  observed  to  Dr.  Spring,  "  Let  the  work  go 
on,  and  you  may  look  to  me."  Dr.  S.  knew  his  man, 
and  was  satisfied  and  thankful.  He  went  to  Salem; 
saw  his  friend  Mr.  Norris  there;  told  him  of  what  it 

Vol.  I.— N  99 


%s^ 


290 


INSTITUTIONS. 


I    J 


l\ 


!  ': 


was  proposed  to  do,  and  of  what  had  been  done ;  and  ob* 
tained  another  10,000  dollars,  i 

It  appeared  that  similar  intentions,  without  the  ex* 
change  of  opinions,  had  been  entertained  by  Mr.  Abbott 
and  Mrs.  Phillips,  of  Andover ;  and  that  they  were  wil- 
ling to  apply  10,000  dollars  each  to  a  like  use.  An 
overture  was  immediately  made  to  them,  and  immediately 
accepted.  But,  in  coming  to  a  definite  arrangement, 
there  were  difficulties  which  made  delay,  and  threatened 
to  prevent  the  execution  of  the  plan.  These  difficulties 
were  connected  with  difference  of  religious  creed ;  but 
at  length  the  matter  was  adjusted,  and  in  favour  of  or- 
thodox principles. 

Thus  the  good  work  began.  It  has  uniformly  been 
under  wise  and  efficient  management ;  and  its  resources 
have  been  fed  time  after  time  by  its  original  friend,  Mr. 
Bartlett.  In  addition  to  his  first  gift,  he  built  the  chapel, 
which  cost  50,000  dollars  ;  afterward,  one  of  the  wings, 
and  several  houses  for  the  professors,  as  well  as  endowed 
several  professorships.  It  is  thought  that,  in  various 
ways,  he  has  not  given  to  this  object  less  than  200,000 
dollars ;  and  there  is  reason  to  believe  that  all  his  be- 
nevolent intentions  are  not  yet  fulfilled.  He  is,  I  think, 
the  only  original  trustee  now  living.  He  was  present  at 
this  anniversary ;  is  about  seventy-eight  years  of  age, 
and  has  a  portly,  intelligent,  and  venerable  aspect.  He 
was  at  first  a  shoemaker  in  Newbury,  and  became,  in  the 
end,  for  talents  and  success,  a  first-rate  merchant. 

There  are  then,  in  fact,  three  institutions  matured 
here  ;  and  they  are  perfectly  distinct,  although  they  are 
held  and  managed  by  the  same  trust.  The  Academy 
supplies  only  an  English  education,  and  is  meant  to  pre- 
pare young  men  as  teachers ;  a  sort  of  normal  school. 
The  classical  school  is  for  boys,  and  meant  to  qualify 
them  for  college ;  and  the  Theological  Institution  re- 
ceives pious  young  men,  who  have  had  collegiate  or 
equal  advantages,  and  prepares  them  for  the  ministry. 
They  are  all  well  appointed.  The  accommodations  for 
the  divinity  students  are  good.     The  chapel  is  really 


INSTITUTIONS. 


291 


n  done ;  and  ob< 


handsome.  There  is  a  fair  philosophical  apparatus,  and 
a  considerable  library;  not  less  than  11,000  volumes, 
and  more  select  than  many. 

My  arrival  was  the  more  pleasant,  as  I  met  with  so 
many  of  my  former  friends  ;  and  among  them,  the  Lieu- 
tenant-governor Armstrong  and  his  lady,  and  Drs.  Cod- 
man,  Woods,  Stuart,  and  Skinner.  Mr.  Matheson  and 
myself  met  the  trustees  to  dinner  at  the  Mansion  House, 
and  afterward  went  to  hear  a  sermon,  which  was  called 
an  oration,  to  the  students,  from  Dr.  Wheeler,  of  Burling- 
ton College.  The  subject  was,  "  The  manifestation  of 
truth  to  every  man's  conscience."  The  discourse,  if  I 
may  venture  to  criticise  it,  showed  good  mind,  and  power 
to  say  good  things,  with  good  feeling  and  expression. 
But  it  wanted  harmony.  There  was  a  frequent  effort  to 
be  fine,  which  ended  in  being  turgid  and  abstruse.  He 
appeared  to  have  studied  Coleridge  and  Chalmers,  and 
with  bad  effect.  It  was,  however,  an  interesting  ex- 
ercise. 

The  next  day  was  really  the  day.  We  were  all  ac- 
cordingly summoned  to  assemble  at  or  before  the  Man- 
sion House,  at  eight  in  the  morning,  that  we  might  go  in 
procession  to  the  chapel.  I  was  rejoiced  to  find  in  the 
muster  new  accessions  of  our  former  friends.  The  can- 
didates, or  students,  were  first ;  then  came  the  alumni ; 
then  the  trustees,  professors,  visiters,  and  ministers, 
amounting  altogether  to  about  300  persons.  We  got 
into  line,  and  moved  forward ;  and  had  you  seen  it  wind 
along  among  the  trees,  and  athwart  the  grass-plots,  with 
the  morning  sun  sparkling  on  it  through  the  trembling 
foliage,  you  had  not  deemed  it  a  bad  spectacle. 

When  the  head  of  the  procession  reached  the  chapel 
doors,  instead  of  entering,  it  paused ;  and  the  students 
and  alumni  filed  off,  and  formed  a  line  on  each  side,  and 
uncovered,  as  to  seniors  and  benefactors ;  while  the  re- 
maining portions  of  the  procession  uncovered  to  them  in 
turn,  and  moved  on  through  their  ranks  to  their  places  in 
the  chapel. 

I  need  not  be  particular  in  stating  the  order  of  service, 

N2 


292 


ANDOVER   COMMEWCEMENT. 


I- 


as  it  was  very  similar  to  that  which  was  adopted  at  Am- 
herst Commencement.  The  exceptions  were,  that  the 
speakers  were  supplied  with  a  stand  and  a  Bible,  and 
that  their  address  lay  written  before  them,  although  they 
made  little  or  no  use  of  it.  Besides  this,  the  subjects 
were  of  a  more  theological  complexion,  and  the  exer- 
cises were  suspended  midway,  for  the  purpose  of  dining, 
and  renewed  in  the  afternoon. 

As  it  must  always  happen,  the  exercises  were  of 
various  character  and  merit.  Generally,  they  were  de- 
livered with  fair  action  and  accent;  but  ith  little  that 
was  free  and  graceful.  There  was  less  declamation  and 
bad  taste  than  might  have  been  expected ;  and,  with 
good  average  talent,  there  was  much  right  feeling  and 
just  distinction.  They  discovered  less  vanity,  and  more 
directness  of  purpose,  than  is  usual  in  these  exhibitions. 
To  be  sure,  they  were  older  than  is  common  with  us  ; 
still  their  danger  would  be  rather  to  err  from  want  of 
prudence  than  want  of  zeal.  As  a  whole,  the  exercises 
were  of  a  very  refreshing  and  promising  character; 
highly  creditable  alike  to  the  teachers  and  the  taught. 

The  congratulatory  addresses  at  the  close  were  not 
used.  Instead  of  them,  some  verses  were  sung.  Dr. 
Woods,  who  presided,  looked  to  me  to  offer  the  con- 
cluding prayer  and  benediction.  The  people  showed 
that  they  could  unite  the  spirit  of  true  devotion  with  the 
avocations  of  the  day.  They  were  interested ;  though 
weary,  and  the  place  so  crowded,  the  profound  silence 
was  affecting.     It  gave  to  our  last  acts  great  solemnity. 

After  the  services,  we  called  on  the  widows  of  Dr. 
Porter  and  the  Rev.  Mr.  Cornelius.  Dr.  Porter  was 
president  of  this  college ;  and  Mr.  Cornelius  was  well 
known  by  his  labours,  as  secretary  to  the  Foreign  Mis- 
sionary Society  ;  it  owes,  perhaps,  as  much  to  him  as  to 
any  one  person.  The  church  has  lost  in  them  two  6f 
her  most  gifted  and  pious  sons.  This  day,  while  one 
of  joy  to  others,  was  one  of  extra  grief  to  these  widows ; 
and  they  required  the  gentle  sympathy  of  their  friends. 
MrSr  Cornelius  is  left  with  six  children.     She  seemed 


!CT. 


ANDOVER    COMMENCEMENT. 


293 


adopted  at  Am- 
were,  that  the 
ind  a  Bible,  and 
n,  although  they 
lis,  the  subjects 
,  and  the  exer- 
irpose  of  dining, 

srcises  were  of 
f,  they  were  de- 
.  ith  little  that 
ieclamation  and 
Jted ;  and,  with 
ight  feehng  and 
canity,  and  more 
lese  exhibitions. 
)mmon  with  us ; 
rr  from  want  of 
le,  the  exercise.<» 
sing  character ; 
d  the  taught, 
close  were  not 
ere  sung.  Dr. 
offer  the  con- 
people  showed 
votion  with  the 
rested ;  though 
rofound  silence 
jreat  solemnity, 
widows  of  Dr. 
)r.  Porter  was 
lelius  was  well 
le  Foreign  Mis- 
ich  to  him  as  to 
in  them  two  6f 
day,  while  one 
these  widows ; 
►f  their  friends. 
She  seemed 


gratified  with  an  opportunity  of  intercourse.  I,  in  turn, 
was  gratified  to  learn  from  her,  that  so  excellent  a  man 
as  her  husband  had  had  communion  of  spirit  with  me, 
through  the  medium  of  the  Missionary  Sermon.  I  left 
this  house  of  quiet  mourning,  with  its  widow  and  father- 
less children,  with  much  concern.  But  "  God  is  in  his 
holy  habitation." 

We  took  tea  at  Professor  Stuart's,  with  many  friends. 
A  Mr.  Styles,  from  Georgia,  came,  and  begged  an  intro- 
duction, and  expressed  much  affection  and  pleasure  at 
the  visit  of  the  Delegation.  He  had  been  an  attorney, 
at  once  worldly  and  successful,  and  even  opposed  to 
religion.  Suddenly  his  wife  died;  he  fell  under  the 
stroke ;  gave  up  the  world  ;  studied  at  Andover ;  and 
returned  to  preach  the  faith  which  once  he  denied.  He 
has  now  laboured  in  this  cause  for  twelve  years,  and 
been  very  useful.  Throughout,  his  attention  has  been 
chiefly  directed  to  the  welfare  of  the  slave.  Before  he 
left,  he  and  Dr.  Stuart  retired  with  us,  and  they  both  en- 
gaa;ed  in  prayer  with  much  tenderness  and  simplicity. 

After  tea,  most  of  the  friends  moved  off  to  chapel,  to 
hear  a  concluding  sermon  by  Mr.  Dickenson.  Mean- 
time, Drs.  Beecher  and  Woods  came  in,  and  we  had  got 
into  a  corner  of  the  room  with  our  host  in  a  good  round 
conversation.  I  was  not  willing  to  leave  such  an  oppor- 
tunity without  improvement ;  and  we  spent  the  evening 
together  most  agreeably,  and  to  me  most  profitably. 

On  returning  to  Dr.  Woods',  we  found  out  selves  in  the 
bosom  of  a  large  and  affectionate  family  circle.  We 
closed  our  intercourse  with  a  common  act  of  domestic 
worship,  which  was  delightfully  solemn ;  and  then  sought 
repose  from  the  fatigues  of  the  day. 

On  the  following  morning  we  breakfasted  at  Mr. 
Farrar's,  the  treasurer  of  the  Institution,  in  company 
with  Drs.  Church  and  Wisner,  and  other  friends.  Mrs. 
Farrar  is  the  grand-daughter  of  President  Edwards  ;  and 
it  was  a  real  gratification  to  meet  with  a  branch  of  his 
family.  We  afterward  visited  again  the  schools  and 
colleges  ;  had  some  pleasant  intercourse  with  Dr.  Woods 

25* 


294 


JOURNEY    TO    MAINE. 


and  his  family ;  took  a  hasty  refreshment  at  Professor 
Emerson's ;  and  left  in  a  carriage  which  had  been  pro- 
cured for  us  by  the  zeal  of  Professor  Stuart,  when  other 
means  of  conveyance  had  failed. 

Though  thus  hasty,  T  know  of  no  visit  that  has  been 
more  delightful.  The  Woods  family,  of  which  I  saw 
most,  is  full  of  sweet  natural  aflection.  Dr.  Woods  is 
greatly  blessed  in  his  children,  and  they  in  their  father. 
On  every  side,  indeed,  there  was  an  overflow  of  kind- 
ness. The  remembrance  of  Andover  will  be  sweet  and 
sunny  to  me ! 


I'. ' 


)  i 


LKTTEU  XXV. 


Jii 


I      , 


My  dear  Friend, 

We  were  now  making  our  way  into  Maine,  and  taking 
the  most  interesting  places  in  our  course.  Our  first 
object  was  Salem,  to  which  our  friend's  carriage  was  to 
convey  us.  The  quiet  of  this  ride  assorted  well  with 
my  state  of  mind ;  and  the  passage  tnrough  the  cool  air 
refreshed  the  spirits,  under  excitement  and  separation. 
The  scenery  had  no  remarkable  features,  but  it  was  not 
uninteresting.  We  wound  our  way  along  through  heads 
of  granite  rock,  partly  covered  with  trees,  which  found  a 
precarious  and  dwarfed  existence  on  their  impenetrable 
sides.  These  and  the  roadside  were  enlivened,  and 
even  beautified,  by  the  great  abundance  of  the  barberry 
shrub,  which  was  now  in  fruit.  ^ 

On  reaching  Salem,  a  gentleman  immediately  came  up 
and  greeted  us.  He  said  we  had  met  on  the  platform  at 
the  Boston  meetings.  I  found  from  him  that  we  had 
about  an  hour  and  a  half  to  wait  for  the  stage  which 
was  to  take  us  onward ;  and  engaged  him  to  acquaint  us 
with  the  things  in  the  town  best  worth  knowing.  The 
Museum  is  the  lion  of  this  place.     We  made  a  hasty 


JOURNEY    TO    IPSWICH. 


295 


lent  at  Professor 
ch  had  been  pro- 
Ituart,  when  other 

[sit  that  has  been 
of  which  I  saw 
1.  Dr.  Woods  is 
ey  in  their  father, 
overflow  of  kind- 
will  be  sweet  and 


Vlaine,  and  taking 
ourse.  Our  first 
s  carriage  was  to 
(sorted  well  with 
rough  the  cool  air 
t  and  separation. 
3S,  but  it  was  not 
ng  through  heads 
es,  which  found  a 
heir  impenetrable 
e  enlivened,  and 
B  of  the  barberry 

lediately  came  up 
L)n  the  platform  at 
him  that  we  had 
the  stage  which 
lim  to  acquaint  us 
1  knowing.  The 
Ve  made  a  hasty 


survey  of  it ;  and  it  is  unusually  good  and  extensive, 
considering  where  it  is  found.  It  arose  in  a  very  lauda- 
ble spirit.  This  town  enjoyed  an  extensive  trade  to  the 
East ;  and  it  was  thought  it  might  be  made  to  contribute 
to  science,  as  well  as  to  opulence.  A  society  was 
formed ;  and  all  those  were  eligible  as  members  who  had 
doubled  the  Cape,  or  who  had  vessels  that  did.  Each 
master  or  supercargo  was  supplied  with  a  journal,  in 
which  he  was  to  make  notes  ;  and  he  was  expected  to 
collect,  as  occasion  offered  itself,  such  curiosities  as 
might  illustrate  the  character  of  the  people  and  of  the 
regions  which  they  visited. 

We  ascended  to  the  top  of  our  hotel,  to  take  a  bird's 
eye  view  of  the  town,  and  to  observe  in  the  distance  the 
spot  where  the  persons  were  burnt  who  were  condemned 
for  the-  sin  of  witchcraft.  What  lamentation,  that  even 
here  the  fires  of  persecution  should  have  been  enkindled  ! 

The  towns  along  this  seaboard  were  mostly  of  early 
settlement.  Salem  was  among  the  earliest,  and  is  more 
than  two  centuries  old.  It  is,  after  Boston,  one  of  the 
most  populous  towns  in  New-England ,  and,  allowing 
for  that  nakedness  which  is  so  common  on  the  seashore, 
is  very  pleasant.  It  has  a  fine  harbour ;  but  its  trade 
has  fallen  away  greatly.  There  are,  however,  upon  it 
no  marks  of  dilapidation  or  decay. 

At  four  we  took  leave  of  our  friend,  and  started  for 
Ipswich.  We  arrived  at  the  close  of  day  ;  and,  having 
refreshed  ourselves  by  tea,  we  went  in  search  of  the 
school  here,  which  is  superintended  by  Miss  Grant.  I 
had  met  this  lady  at  Cincinnati ;  and  although  she  had 
not  returned,  she  had  prepared  Miss  Lyon,  who  acted  as 
principal  in  her  absence,  to  receive  us.  The  evening 
was  pleasantly  and  usefully  employed,  in  obtaining,  by 
free  conversation,  the  details  of  the  establishment.  It 
is  one  of  high  repute  in  New-England,  and  will  require 
attention  elsewhere. 

The  temperature  here  changed  in  the  night  very  sud- 
denly. I  was  awoke  twice  with  the  cold  ;  and,  in  the 
morning,  found  my  thermometer,  which  had  been  in  the 


296 


NEWBUnVPORT. 


i'i 


1;!V 


t 


chamber  all  night,  at  46°.  The  brethren  called  on  ui 
early,  and  were  deputed  by  Miss  Lyon  to  request  that  we 
would  open  the  school  by  prayer.  I  excused  myself,  as 
I  had  devoted  an  hour  to  writing,  and  Mr.  Matheson 
went.  I  afterward  walked  out  with  one  of  the  brethren. 
The  town  stands  on  a  rock,  and  is  relieved  by  pretty 
declivities  and  a  fine  stream.  I  was  shown  a  head  of 
granite  rock,  on  which  George  Whitefield  stood,  and 
preached  on  those  words,  "  On  this  rock  will  I  build  my 
church,"  &c.  There  is  now  a  church  standing  on  part 
of  it ;  and  it  is  not  unlikely  that  it  owes  its  existence,  in 
a  great  measure,  to  his  apostolic  labours. 

I  called  to  take  leave  of  my  obliging  friend,  Miss 
Lyon.  Nothing  would  satisfy  her  but  that  I  should 
meet  the  school.  I  did  so ;  and  we  united  together  in 
an  act  of  worship. 

At  eleven  o'clock,  we  went  on  to  Newburyport. 
Here  we  were  met  by  Dr.  Dana  and  Mr.  Bannister ;  and 
were  received  with  much  courtesy  and  cordiality  at  the 
residence  of  the  latter  gentleman.  He  has  a  most  com- 
fortable house ;  it  is  not  only  like  ours,  it  is  quite 
English ;  but  English  in  the  olden  style.  The  forms, 
carvings,  cornices,  and  patterns,  such  as  I  have  seen  a 
hundred  times ;  and  tho  beautiful  limes  in  the  fore-court 
were  literally  brought  from  England. 

We  had  a  conference  with  the  pastors  here ;  and 
afterward  went  to  the  church,  which  is  enriched  with  the 
remains  of  Whitefield.  The  elders  of  the  church  were 
present  in  the  porch  to  receive  us.  We  descended  to 
the  vault.  There  were  three  coffins  before  us.  Two  pas- 
tors of  the  church  lay  on  either  side ;  and  the  remains  of 
Whitefield  in  the  centre.  The  cover  was  slipped  aside, 
and  they  lay  beneath  my  eye.  I  had  before  stood  in  his 
pulpits ;  seen  his  books,  his  rings,  and  chairs ;  but  never 
before  had  I  looked  on  part  of  his  very  self.  The  scull, 
which  is  perfect,  clean,  and  fair,  I  received,  as  is  the 
custom,  into  my  hand.  I  could  say  nothing ;  but  thought 
and  feeling  were  busy.  On  returning  to  the  church,  I 
proposed  an  exercise  of  worship.     We  collected  over 


^ili 


'ij' 


WIHTEPIELD. 


297 


thren  called  on  ui 
to  request  that  we 
xcused  myself,  as 
nd  Mr.  Matheson 
e  of  the  brethren, 
relieved  by  pretty 

shown  a  head  of 
tefield  stood,  and 
ck  will  I  build  my 

standing  on  part 
3s  its  existence,  in 
rs. 

ring  friend.  Miss 
ut  that  I  should 
inited  together  in 

to  Newburyport. 
r.  Bannister ;  and 
i  cordiality  at  the 
9  has  a  most  com- 
ours,  it  is  quite 
yle.  The  forms, 
as  I  have  seen  a 
in:  the  fore-court 

stors  here ;  and 
enriched  with  the 
the  church  were 
We  descended  to 
)re  us.  Two  pas- 
id  the  remains  of 
as  slipped  aside, 
iioxe  stood  in  his 
ihairs ;  but  never 
jelf.  The  scull, 
ceived,  as  is  the 
ing;  but  thought 
to  the  church,  I 
le  colleoted  over 


the  grave  of  the  eloquent,  the  devoted,  and  seraphic 
man,  and  gave  expression  to  the  sentiments  that  posses- 
sed us,  by  solemn  psalmody  and  fervent  [>raycr.  It  was 
not  an  ordinary  service  to  any  of  us. 

More  care  should  be  taken  to  preserve  these  remains, 
and  less  freedom  used  in  the  exhibition  of  them.  There 
are  three  slabs  before  the  pulpit,  to  record  the  interments 
beneath.  But,  recently,  Mr.  Bartlelt  has  erected,  in  one 
angle  of  the  church,  a  splendid  monument  to  the  name 
of  Whitefield.  It  was  prepared  in  Italy,  and  bears  the 
following  epitaph,  from  the  pen  of  the  excellent  Dr. 
Porter ;  himself  now  needing,  from  some  kindred  hand, 
the  like  office : — 

THIS    CENOTAPH 

18  ERECTED,  WITH  AFFECTIONATE  VENERATION, 

TO  THE  MEMORY  OP 

THE  REV.  GEORGE   WHITEFIELD, 

BORN  AT  GLOUCESTER,  ENG.,  DEC.   16,  1714; 

EDUCATED  AT  OXFORD  university;  ORDAINED,  1736 

IN  A  MINISTRY  OP  34  YEARS, 

HE  CROSSED  THE  ATLANTIC  13  TIMES, 

AND  PREACHED  MORE  THAN  18,000  SERMONS. 

As  a  soldier  of  the  cross,  humble^  devout,  ardent,  he  put 
on  the  whole  armour  of  God,  preferring  the  honour  of 
Christ  to  ?tts  own  interest,  repose,  reputation,  or  life.  As 
a  Christian  orator,  his  deep  piety,  disinterested  zeal,  and 
vivid  imagination,  gave  unexampled  energy  to  his  look, 
action,  and  utterance.  Bold,  fervent,  pungent,  and  popular 
in  his  eloquence,  no  other  uninspired  man  ever  preached  to 
so  large  assemblies,  or  enforced  the  simple  truths  of  the 
gospel  by  motives  so  persuasive  and  awful,  and  with  an 
influence  so  powerful  on  the  hearts  of  the  hearers. 

He  died  of  asthma,  Sept.  30,  1770  ; 

suddenly  exchanging  his  life  of  unparalleled  labours 

for  his  eternal  rest. 

On  leaving  the  church,  we  called  on  Mr.  Bartlett* 

N  3 


298 


PORTgllOUTH. 


He  occupies  a  good  house  ;  but  lives  in  a  very  plain 
style;  and  has  evidently  more  pleasure  u\  bestowing 
than  in  consuming  his  property.  We  uxht,  in  huste,  at  a 
friend's  to  tea,  and  to  enjoy  some  last  words  with  the 
brethren  ;  and  were  thus  engaged,  when  the  mail  called 
for  us  to  go  on  to  Portsmouth.  The  ministers  here  are 
excellent  and  useful  men.  Religion  is  in  a  thriving 
state ;  and  during  the  last  winter,  much  serious  concern 
obtained  among  the  people.  The  town  has  a  clean  fnd 
agreeable  appearance,  and  many  of  the  residents  :ue 
very  respectable. 

Portsmouth  is  a  seaport  and  naval  (jtab)  Iment; 
and  is  usually  spoken  of  as  an  abandoned  un  i  wicked 
place.  During  our  stay,  nothing  occurred  to  oonfinn 
such  an  opinion,  and  there  was  some  testimony  <o  the 
contrary ;  at  least,  as  it  affected  its  present  condition. 
On  arriving,  I  was  glad  to  get  near  to  a  good  fire,  in  a 
room  of  the  inn  open  to  common  use.  Here  were 
several  persons  of  the  town  in  full  chat.  Among  other 
things,  the  Temperance  cause  gained  attention,  and  was 
more  leniently  dealt  with  than  might  be  expected  from  a 
tap-routn  company.  All  allowed  that  a  great  change  had 
been  wrought ;  and  one  of  them  argued  against  its  con- 
tinuance from  this  circi  mstance.  "  Why,"  he  exclaim- 
ed, "  three  years  ago,  the  people  would  get  drunk  four 
days  in  the  week ;  now,  they  will  not  drink  at  all.  It  is 
impossible  that  this  can  continue."  There  was  a  wicked 
hope  at  the  bottom  of  this  prediction,  which  gave 
strength  to  the  admission  in  favour  of  the  town. 

On  the  next  morning,  at  eight,  we  took  the  stage  to 
Portland.  There  was  added  to  a  low  temperature  a 
sharp  wind,  which  made  tl:3  rido  a  cold  one  ;  and  there 
was  little  on  the  road,  bcond  its  novelty,  to  .1'  the  at- 
tention. The  Rev.  Mr.  .•.  'r,st>n  luet  us  at  Saco,  and 
urged  us  to  divide  our  services  for  th-3  Sabbath.  Mr. 
Matheson,  therefore,  stayed  here ;  and  I  went  on  to 
Portland,  where  the  friends  were  expecting  my  arrival 
In  accordance  with  previous  invitation,  I  took  my  resi- 
ri*'nce  at  the  Rev.  Mr,  Beckwith's. 


PORTLAND. 


299 


'es  in  a  very  plain 
isure  ill  bestowing 
e  iixhtf  in  huBte,  at  a 
ast  words  with  the 
hen  the  mail  called 
ministers  here  are 
on  is  in  a  thriving 
tch  serious  concern 
wn  has  a  clean  t^nd 
f  the  residents  :u-e 

ival  ( 3tab)  sb  nent ; 
idoned  uni  wicked 
>ccurred  to  confirm 
le  testimony  io  the 
I  present  condition, 
to  a  good  lire,  in  a 
use.  Here  were 
[lat.  Among  other 
I  attention,  and  was 
be  expected  from  a 
:  a  great  change  had 
led  against  its  con< 
Why,"  he  exclaim- 
ould  get  drunk  four 
drink  at  all.  It  is 
'here  was  a  wicked 
ction,   which   gave 

the  town, 
re  took  the  stage  to 
low  temperature  a 
old  one  ;  and  there 
olty,  to  '.I.'  the  at- 
et  us  at  Saco,  and 
th-a  Sabbath.  Mr. 
and  I  went  on  to 
pecting  my  arrival 
on,  I  took  my  resi* 


Portland  is  a  populous  town,  cont«itniuig  about  14,000 
persons.  It  has  an  extremely  ilnr  location  on  the  ridge 
and  side  of  a  hill,  running  down  tu  the  water,  and 
having  a  beautiful  bay  on  the  one  hand,  and  naibour  on 
the  other ;  and,  beyond  both,  the  vast  ocean.  The  htr  - 
bour  is  completely  land-locked,  and  yet  possessing  an 
eisy  and  safe  access  to  the  sea ;  and  the  projecting 
luitds,  which  shut  it  in,  present  so  many  capes,  ol  differ- 
ni  formation  to  the  sight,  as  greatly  to  raise  and  orna- 
mcnt  the  scene.  It  is  very  considerable  as  a  shippir»g 
port ;  and  its  fair  waters  are  enlivened  by  the  constant 
movement  of  a  great  variety  of  vessels.  The  main 
street  has  the  advantage  of  running  along  the  ridge  of 
the  hill.  It  is  wide  and  cheerful ;  it  is  decorated  by  the 
town-hall,  custom-house,  and  a  church,  which  has  a 
portico,  with  granite  columns ;  and  its  higher  extremif 
terminates  with  a  tower,  called  an  observatory,  used  fur 
nautical  and  pleasurable,  but  not  scientific  purposes. 
From  this  point  of  sight,  which  is  140  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  waters,  you  get  a  commanding  and  com- 
bined view  of  earth  and  sea,  of  great  extent. 

On  the  day  after  my  arrival,  the  Sabbath,  I  preached 
at  Mr.  Dwight's  church  in  the  morning,  and  at  Mr.  Beck- 
with's  in  the  afternoon,  to  considerable  and  attentive  con- 
gregations.  In  the  evening,  an  annual  sermon  was  to 
be  delivered  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  M'Ginnis,  in  favour  of  the 
Female  Orphan  Asylum,  lately  established  in  this  place. 
He  is  a  Baptist  minister,  of  good  repute  here ;  and  I  had 
pleasure  in  the  prospect  of  attending  the  service.  The 
other  churches  were  closed  on  the  occasion ;  and  the 
congregation  was  made  up  by  a  contribution  from  all. 
The  service  and  the  object  are  both  popular  with  the 
people ;  and  the  place  was  very  crowded.  I  was  pressed 
to  take  a  seat  in  the  pulpit,  as  is  very  common  here ; 
but,  as  a  hearer,  I  did  not  enjoy  so  conspicuous  a  station, 
and  I  declined  it.  Besides  which,  being  in  the  pulpit  is 
the  next  step  to  partaking  in  its  duties ;  and  I  was 
already  exhausted,  and  had  much  desire  to  hear.  The 
usual  service  went  on.     The  singing  was  rather  theatii- 


300 


SABBATH. 


i  .• 


'■    i 


^il 

Ill 

•'  % 

cal,  but  it  was  a  special  occasion ;  and  professed  singers 
seldom  neglect  any  occasion  for  display.  The  sermon 
was  read ;  it  was  superior  as  a  composition  ;  but  it  was 
somewhat  above  the  congregation.  The  closing  appeals 
were  good,  and  such  as  I  had  been  familiar  to  at  home. 
The  preacher  closed  ;  the  children  sung  ;  and  a  collec- 
tion was  about  to  be  made,  when  he  came  forward  again 
to  the  front  of  the  pulpit,  and  said,  he  understood  that 
they  were  favoured  with  the  presence  of  a  minister  from 
England ;  and  that  he  had,  for  many  years,  been  devoted 
to  some  orphan  estabUshments  in  that  country ;  and  so- 
licited it  as  a  great  benefit  to  this  infant  Asylum,  that  I 
would  oblige  the  congregation  with  some  particulars  rel- 
ative to  those  institutions.  I  was  confounded  ;  for  I  had 
never  spoken  to  the  preacher,  and  knew  not  that  my 
name,  much  less  my  engagements,  had  ever  been  before 
him.  But,  in  an  instant,  the  eyes  of  all  present  were 
directed  towards  me,  and  a  movement  made  to  let  me 
pass.  I  had  no  option.  To  have  risen  and  declined 
the  request  was  as  trying  as  to  comply  with  it;  and,  as 
to  comply  was  the  more  grateful  part,  I  obeyed  the  bid- 
ding, and  went  to  the  pulpit.  T scarcely  know  what  I 
said.  Briefly,  I  gave  them  a  sketch  of  the  origin  and 
advancement  of  the  London  Orphan  Asylum ;  and,  by  a 
reference  to  its  difficulties  and  success,  used  its  history 
as  an  encouragement  to  their  incipient  exertions.  My 
observations  were  then  made  to  fall  in  with  the  preacher's 
address,  and  to  support  his  appeal.  It  was  most  kindly 
received ;  and  the  collection  was  greater  than  it  had 
been  on  any  former  occasion.  Mr.  Cutter,  the  Mayor, 
and  his  lady,  sought  an  introduction  after  the  service, 
and  invited  me  to  return  and  stay  with  them.  An  invi- 
tation which  I  declined  only  on  the  ground  of  prior  en- 
gagement. 

From  this  day's  exercise,  although  it  was  evident  there 
was  a  large  proportion  of  religious  persons  in  the  town, 
it  did  not  appear  to  me  that  religion  at  this  time  was  in  a 
thriving  state.  Their  pastors  had  been  removed ;  the 
people  had  got  unsettled,  and  in  some  cases  disappointed ; 


DR.  PAYSON. 


301 


md  professed  singers 
splay.  The  sermon 
iposition  ;  but  it  was 

The  closing  appeals 

familiar  to  at  home. 

sung  ;  and  a  collec- 

came  forward  again 

he  understood  that 
;e  of  a  minister  from 

years,  been  devoted 
lat  country ;  and  so- 
ifant  Asylum,  that  I 
some  particulars  rel- 
onfounded  ;  for  I  had 

knew  not  that  my 
lad  ever  been  before 
of  all  present  were 
ent  made  to  let  me 

risen  and  declined 
ply  with  it ;  and,  as 
rt,  I  obeyed  the  bid- 
arcely  know  what  I 
h  of  the  origin  and 
Asylum ;  and,  by  a 
;ess,  used  its  history 
lent  exertions.  My 
1  with  the  preacher's 

It  was  most  kindly 
greater  than  it  had 
.  Cutter,  the  Mayor, 
I  after  the  service, 
ith  them.  An  invi- 
ground  of  .prior  en- 
it  was  evident  there 
•ersons  in  the  town, 
t  this  time  was  in  a 
jeen  removed ;  the 
cases  disappointed ; 


and  though  other  men  of  talent  and  piety  had  been  chosen 
to  stand  in  their  places,  it  required  some  time  to  put  forth 
a  pastor's  influence,  and  to  gather  together  that  which 
had  been  scattered,  or  enliven  what  had  become  torpid. 
Payson,  too,  was  gone !  and  for  his  flock,  as  yet,  no 
shepherd  had  been  found. 

The  Monday,  being  the  only  day  remaining,  was  a 
very  busy  one,  I  visited  the  town,  received  calls  and 
made  them,  and  sought  information.  At  noon  1  had  an 
appointment  with  the  Ladies'  Committee  to  inspect  the 
Orphan  Asylum.  It  has  within  it  twenty-three  female 
children ;  they  are  not  all  orphans.  The  dwelling  is 
clean,  and  managed  with  economy  and  care.  I  felt  half 
at  home  amid  the  little  fatherless  family.  We  sang 
and  prayed  together ;  and  took  a  respectful  leave  of  the 
managing  ladies.  Of  course,  there  was  nothing  to  learn. 
America  herself  has  "no  London  Orphan  Asylum ;  it 
would  be  absurd  to  expect  that  she  had.  Happily,  at 
present,  she  does  not  need  these  charities  as  we  do ; 
when  she  does,  she  will  learn  of  us,  and  rival  us. 

We  dined  at  Mrs.  Payson's,  the  widow  of  Dr.  Payson, 
with  Dr.  Humphrey,  Mr.  Nettleton,  and  other  friends.  I 
felt,  as  you  may  suppose,  an  interest  in  the  family  and 
in  the  house.  Yes,  in  the  house !  This  was  the  very 
dwelling  in  which  he  lived,  and  wrestled,  and  prayed : 
and  there  was  the  very  chamber,  the  very  couch,  where 
he  communed  with  heaven,  till  he  scarcely  knew  whether 
he  was  "in  the  body  or  out  of  the  body." 

After  dinner,  agreeably  to  appointment,  the  brethren 
from  the  country  came  in,  and  we  held  a  conference. 
About  twenty  were  assembled.  It  was  a  delightful  inter- 
view. Prayer  was  offered  by  Messrs.  Nettleton  and 
Johnson. 

In  the  evening  we  had  to  attend  a  public  meeting.  It 
was  held  in  the  church  that  was  Payson's.  It  is  the 
largest  in  the  town,  and  it  was  very  full.  There  were 
three  prayers,  and  three  addresses.  Dr.  Humphrey,  Mr. 
Matheson,  and  myself,  gave  the  addresses.  As  a  depu- 
tation, we  were  introduced  to  the  congregation  by  my 

2G 


802 


DEPARTURE    FOR  BOSTON. 


i 


esteemed  friend  Mr.  Nettleton.  The  service  was  long, 
but  it  was  not  felt  to  be  so.  It  appeared  to  have  made  a 
good  impression. 

By  this  lime,  about  forty  of  the  ministers  had  come 
together ;  some  of  them  from  great  distances.  As  we 
could  not  hope  to  meet  with  them  on  the  morrow,  they 
stayed  after  the  service,  and  we  were  introduced  to  each 
other.  When  our  duties  were  closed,  I  amused  myself, 
while  waiting  for  a  conveyance,  with  looking  over  the 
place.  One  of  the  elders  attended  me.  He  pointed  to 
the  pulpit,  and  said  emphatically,  "  That  is  the  place,  sir, 
where  Payson  prayed.''''  I  was  struck  with  this  remark. 
It  gave  me  Payson's  peculiarity  in  an  instant.  I  had 
thought  that  whatever  might  have  been  his  power  as  a 
preacher,  it  was  greatest  in  prayer.  I  was  now  sure 
of  it. 

On  the  morning  of  the  15th,  we  had  to  leave  by  the 
steamboat  early  for  Boston.  Mr.  Cutter  kindly  took  us 
to  the  wharf  in  his  carriage ;  and  he,  with  Dr.  Hum- 
phrey and  other  friends,  saw  us  to  the  ship.  All  our 
pleasant  meetings  were  now  beginning  to  be  dashed  with 
sorrow,  from  the  prevalent  idea  that  we  wer6  parting — 
perhaps  for  ever. 

The  town  had  a  fine  aspect  as  we  moved  out  of  the 
harbour.  As  we  got  farther  out,  the  haze  which  is  com- 
mon here  closed  in  around  us,  like  a  gauze  curtain  illu- 
minated by  the  growing  lights  of  the  rising  sun.  Every 
thing  was  mist,  and  every  thing  was  hidden,  except  a 
pretty  fishing  sloop,  which  lay  sufficiently  near  to  be 
seen,  surrounded  by  the  haze,  and  glowing  with  light. 
It  had  an  indefiniteness  and  a  lustre  about  it  which  made 
it  look  unreal,  and  it  presented  the  most  perfect  picture 
of  repose  in  an  object  and  on  an  element  almost  always 
agitated.  It  was  lovely  and  fascinating;  and  supplied 
an  evidence  how  readily,  when  nature  is  the  painter,  an 
ordinary  and  insignificant  object  may  be  made  illustrious. 

We  had  a  charming  run ;  a  good  sight  of  Lynn,  Salem, 
Marblehead,  and  Nahant,  on  our  way ;  and  reached 
Boston  at  five  o^clock,  having  been  ten  hours  in  making 


BOSTON. 


303 


a  distance  of  ninety  miles.  Mr.  Matheson  went  to  Mr. 
Stoddard's;  and  I  was  kindly  welcomed  to  my  former 
accommodations  in  the  family  of  Lieutenant-governor 
Armstrong. 


LETTER  XXVL 


My  dear  Friend, 

I  BELIEVE,  in  my  former  hasty  visit  to  Boston,  I  took  no 
notice  of  its  topography ;  yet  it  ought  not  to  be  passed 
over  in  silence.  Everywhere  it  meets  the  eye  in  impo- 
sing forms,  and  nowhere,  perhaps,  so  forcibly,  as  by 
the  entrance  we  made  to  it  yesterday  from  the  water. 
The  expanded  waters  are  themselves  fine  objects,  being 
relieved  by  a  variety  of  islands  and  headlands  of  very 
picturesque  character  and  position,  and  animated  by  the 
number  of  vessels  which  are  seeking  egress  or  ingress 
to  this  port.  From  these,  and  above  the  shipping,  the 
town  rises  on  the  three  hills  which  compose  its  site, 
crowned  with  its  domed  and  turreted  State  House. 
These  hills  spring  about  100  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
water;  and  the  State  House  rises  about  120  feet  above 
them ;  and  they  have,  from  the  lower  surfaces,  to  a 
great  distance,  a  commanding  stnd  magnificent  effect. 

The  town  of  Boston  is  more  Uke  an  English  town 
than  any  other  in  the  Union.  It  often  reminds  one  of 
Bristol,  though  it  is  not  enriched  with  such  fine  land- 
scape scenery  as  is  that  favourite  city.  Its  streets  of 
business  are  narrow  and  irregular ;  but  those  of  more  re- 
cent date,  and  for  domestic  use,  have  more  freedom.  It 
has  been  outrun  in  population  by  the  other  great  cities  of 
the  seaboard ;  but,  for  its  size,  it  has  still  the  greater 
number  of  wealthy  and  well-educated  residents ;  and 
there  is  a  proportionate  number  of  commodious  and 
handsome  dwelUngs.     It  has,  besides  the  State  House, 


304 


BOSTON. 


,  ■.  I 


an  Athenaeum,  a  market-place,  picture-gallery,  halls,  and 
reading-rooms,  which  would  be  good  in  Bristol  or  Liver- 
pool. There  are  some  recent  erections  of  stores  and 
warehouses  on  a  large  scale,  faced  with  a  fine  white 
granite.  When  you  enter  the  narrowest  and  poorest 
portions  of  the  city,  you  meet  with  nothing  that  offends 
you.  Poverty  here  is  deprived  of  half  its  evil,  by  having 
for  its  wedded  companion  decided  cleanliness.  Indeed, 
it  can  be  said  to  exist  here  only  in  a  comparative  and 
mild  sense  ;  for  the  poorest  have  enough,  and  competency 
is  wealth.  For  casualties,  however,  charity  is  not 
asleep ;  slie  stands  with  open  door  at  the  hospital  and 
infirmary ;  and  her  helping  hand  is  ready  in  a  thousand 
ways  to  aid  those  who  are  lowest  to  a  better  standing. 

But  the  advantage  which  Boston  has,  as  distinguished 
from  its  rivals,  is  to  be  found  in  what  is  called  the  com- 
mon, or  mall,  but  which  has  a  better  right  to  the  name 
of  park  than  many  things  so  named  elsewhere.  It  con- 
sists of  an  opening  in  the  heart  of  the  city  of  upwards  of 
seventy  acres.  You  could  not  choose  the  land  to  lie 
more  handsomely  than  it  does.  It  is  bounded,  as  you  may 
expect,  by  the  finest  houses  and  churches  in  the  town. 
At  its  highest  point  it  is  perfected  by  the  State  House ; 
and  from  this  point  it  runs  off  in  beautiful  slopes  and 
swells,  to  the  waters  which  separate  Boston  from  the 
adjoining  country.  These  waters  are  more  than  two 
miles  wide,  and,  broken  by  the  land,  they  have  the  air  of 
a  confluence  of  lakes  and  rivers ;  and  beyond  them  is 
seen,  among  the  wooded  hills,  the  smiUng  villages  and 
hamlets  which  are  the  offspring  of  the  parent  city.  The 
park  itself  is  kept  in  a  verdant  state,  with  excellent 
walks,  and  has  a  very  cool  and  refreshing  aspect,  from 
its  natural  basin  of  water,  and  its  fine  overshadowing 
trees.  On  a  fine  summer's  evening,  when  this  scene  is 
animated  by  the  families  of  the  worthy  citizens,  the  elder 
moving  down  the  shaded  avenues,  and  the  children, 
buoyant  with  life,  chasing  the  elastic  football  over  the 
green,  I  know  nothing  of  its  kind  more  admirable. 

I  cannot  dismiss  this  spot  without  expressing  a  fear 


HORTICULTURAL    SOCIETY. 


305 


I 


•gallery,  halls,  and 
n  Bristol  or  Liver- 
ons  of  stores  and 
with  a  fine  white 
west  and  poorest 
othing  that  offends 
its  evil,  by  having 
anhness.     Indeed, 
comparative  and 
h,  and  competency 
ir,    charity    is   not 
t  the  hospital  and 
Jady  in  a  thousand 
better  standing, 
s,  as  distinguished 
is  called  the  corn- 
right  to  the  name 
sewhere.     It  con- 
city  of  upwards  of 
^e  the  land  to  lie 
lunded,  as  you  may 
dies  in  the  town, 
the  State  House ; 
autiful  slopes  and 
Boston  from  the 
e  more  than  two 
ley  have  the  air  of 
1  beyond  them  is 
liling  villages  and 
parent  city.     The 
:e,  with  excellent 
thing  aspect,  from 
le  overshadowing 
vhen  this  scene  is 
citizens,  the  elder 
ind  the  children, 
football  over  the 
admirable, 
expressing  a  fear 


that,  in  their  excess  of  lov^e,  the  Bostonians  may  spoil  it. 
I  observed  with  regret,  that  a  number  of  young  trees  had 
been  recently  planted  over  this  park,  which,  if  allowed 
to  grow  up  as  they  stand,  will  entirely  destroy  the  charm- 
ing effect  of  this  picture.  What  had  been  previously 
done,  had  bee  i  done  with  great  taste  and  efficiency  ;  but 
if  the  present  plantations  are  realized,  there  will  be  a  few 
French  avenues,  and  nothing  more. 

On  the  morning  after  our  arrival  I  attended  my  friends 
to  an  exhibition  of  the  Horticultural  Society.  It  is  made 
in  the  Public  Hall, — a  large  room,  with  galleries  in 
chapel  style.  It  is  frequently  called  the  Cradle  of  Lib- 
erty ;  since  it  was  here  that  the  celebrated  resolutions 
were  passed  to  resist  the  tea-tax.  The  room  is  deco- 
rated with  several  pictures,  and  at  this  time  the  galleries 
were  filled  with  young  pines,  and  among  the  pines  were 
suspended  a  variety  of  singing-birds  ;  rather  a  forced 
attempt,  certainly,  to  bring  the  freshness  and  melody  of 
the  woods  into  the  city.  To  the  eye,  however,  it  was 
more  grateful  than  a  vacant  space.  For  the  area,  there 
were  along  the  sides  of  the  walls,  and  resting  against 
them,  galleries  filled  with  rare  and  curious  plants  ;  and 
in  the  centre  of  the  room  were  tables  covered  with  the 
handsomest  specimens  of  fruits  and  flowers  that  could 
be  produced  by  the  members.  And  everywhere  there 
were  gay  festoons,  and  garlands  of  flowers,  suspended 
from  table  to  gallery,  and  gallery  to  ceiling.  The  speci- 
mens, which  were  really  the  subject  of  exhibition,  were, 
for  the  age  of  the  institution,  and  the  circumstances 
under  which  they  were  produced,  exceedingly  good,  and 
discovered  great  zeal  and  practical  skill  on  the  part  of 
the  contributors. 

When  the  company  had  had  leisure  to  inspect  and  ad- 
mire the  productions,  an  address  was  delivered  before 
the  Society  by  Mr.  Gray,  an  intelligent  merchant  of  the 
place.  It  commended  the  subject  to  their  attention  and 
pursuit,  by  an  exposition  of  its  advantages  and  their 
facilities.  It  was  a  very  sensible  address,  and  composed 
in  good  taste  and  hberal  spirit ;  and  was,  in  fact,  an  evi- 

2G* 


306 


MOUNT    AUBURN. 


t  ? 


dence  of  the  humanizing  and  elevating  influence  which 
nature  exerts  on  her  true  disciples. 

Tn  the  afternoon  we  made  a  visit  to  Cambridge  and 
Mount  Auburn.     This  college,  or  university,  is  the  old- 
est in  the  Union,  and  has  high  claims  to  consideration 
and  respect,  though  it  has  ceased  to  be  the  friend  of  or- 
thodox opinions.     There  is  a  sweet  village-green  here, 
surrounded  by  detached  cottages,  professors'  residences, 
and  two  churches.     The  colleges  are  of  various  dates, 
and  conform  to  no  plan,  either  in  elevation  or  arrange- 
ment, and  occupy   a  flat  surface.     Nevertheless,  with 
their  verdant  courts,  and  their  ancient  trees,  they  have, 
together,  a  venerable  and  interesting  appearance.     The 
library,   museum,    and    philosophical    instruments,    are 
worthy  of  attention.     The  library  is  one  of  the  largest 
and  best  in  the  country.     It  has   upwards  of  40,000 
volumes,  and  some  of  them  very   rare  and  precious  : 
they  are  about  to  erect  a  suitable  room  for  its  reception. 
Recently  a  law-school  has  been  added  to  this  estab- 
lishment.    Judge  Story,  the  professor  in  this  department, 
was  at  pains  to  inform  us  relative  to  it  anr!  the  fellow- 
colleges.     Here  is  also  an  excellent  library,  remarkable 
for  possessing  a  complete  set  of  the  Law  Reports  of 
Great  Britain.     The  American  Quarterly  issues  from 
this  University,  and  does  credit  not  only  to  it,  but  to  the 
country,  as  a  literary  production. 

Mount  Auburn  is  about  two  miles  beyond  Cambridge, 
and  is  a  place  of  burial.  It  embraces  no  less  than  sixty 
acres  of  ground,  and  is  a  late  purchase  of  the  Horticul- 
tural Society,  with  the  intiention  of  forming  at  once  a 
garden  and  a  sepulchre.  The  land  is  fine,  clothed  with 
young  wood,  and  has  beautiful  undulations,  affording  al- 
ternately the  most  quiet  little  dells  and  pleasant  outlooks. 
There  cannot  be  better  scope  for  English  landscape- 
gardening  than  it  suppUes  ;  and  a  skilful  hand  might 
soon  place  it  above  P^re  la  Chaise.  It  can  never  be  so 
rich  in  tombs  as  this  is  ;  but  Pere  la  Chaise  has  no  sense 
of  retirement  about  it.  This,  even  as  it  is,  gives  you 
the  sense  of  silence  without  sadness,  and   retirement 


MOUNT  AUBURN. 


307 


ig  influence  which 

to  Cambridge  and 
versity,  is  the  old- 
is  to  consideration 
)e  the  friend  of  or- 
village-green  here, 
^essors'  residences, 
I  of  various  dates, 
vation  or  arrange- 
nevertheless,  with 
It  trees,  they  have, 
appearance.     The 

instruments,  are 
one  of  the  largest 
)wards  of  40,000 
ire  and  precious  : 
1  for  its  reception, 
[led  to  this  estab- 
in  this  department, 
it  and  the  fellow- 
ibrary,  remarkable 

Law  Reports  of 
terly  issues  from 
ily  to  it,  but  to  the 

eyond  Cambridge, 
no  less  than  sixty 
le  of  the  Horticul- 
3rming  at  once  a 
fine,  clothed  with 
ions,  affording  al- 
pleasant  outlooks, 
nglish  landscape- 
kilful  hand  might 
[t  can  never  be  so 
haise  has  no  sense 
s  it  is,  gives  you 
9,  and   retirement 


without  gloom.  But  I  am  jealous  of  the  hand  of  the 
mere  hortic\Uturist ;  and  there  are  already  reasons  for 
this  distrust.  Formal  beds  and  flowers,  assorted  by  their 
genus,  least  of  all  accord  with  a  cemetery.  Now,  it  is 
not  uncommon  to  see  flowers  crowded  together  over  the 
new-made  tomb ;  and  these  not  the  humble  daisy,  violet, 
and  primrose,  which  might  spring  from  the  sod  and  sleep 
on  its  bosom,  but  showy  and  glaring  flowers,  evidently 
fixed  on  the  soil  by  an  intrusive  hand. 

A  great  many  interments  have  been  made  here  already. 
There  is  one  just  finishing,  of  great  pretensions  and  ex- 
pense ;  but  money  has  been  unskilfully  applied,  and  has 
ruined  it.  It  is  full  of  small  parts  and  small  ornaments, 
which  destroy  its  unity  and  power.  There  is  one  also 
for  Spurzheim,  which  pleased  me  best ;  it  is  simply  a 
tomb,  of  massive  parts,  and  has  only  his  name  cut  on  its 
side  in  bold  and  deep  characters.  There  is  also  a  neat 
monument  for  the  amiable  Hannah  Adams.  She  was 
the  first  person  interred  in  this  ground,  and  the  following 
superscription  is  on  the  tomb  : — 

TO 
HANNAH    ADAMS, 
HISTORIAN   OF  THE   JEWS, 
AND 
REVIEWER  OF  THE  CHRISTIAN  SECTS, 
THIS  MONl   lENT  IS  ERECTED 
BY  HER  FEMALE  FRIENDS. 
FIRST  TENANT 
OF  MOUNT  AUBURN. 
SHE  DIED  DEC.  15,  1831. 
AGED  76. 

Because  the  drive  to  this  place  is  very  pleasant,  and 
because  the  walks  within  are  equally  so,  it  has  become 
quite  a  place  of  fashionable  resort ;  so  that  it  may  be  said 
that  the  pleasure  of  the  people  of  Boston  consists  in 
going  to  the  grave.  There  were,  I  think,  some  dozen 
of  carriages,  and  a  number  of  saddle-horses,  in  attend- 


308 


ORDINATION. 


t  ^ 


m 

Itmx 


ance  when  we  went ;  but  it  did  not  materially  afTect  the 
quiet  of  the  place ;  it  is  so  extensive,  and  a  pari,/  is  so 
quickly  lost  in  the  numerous  paths  which  wind  about  the 
acclivities.  And  all  do  not  go  for  purposes  of  recrea- 
tion. As  we  made  a  sudden  turn  in  one  of  the  secluded 
walks,  we  came  in  sight  of  a  tomb  which  had  been  just 
erected,  and  there  were  two  newly-made  widowers  stand- 
ing over  it,  who  had  stolen  from  the  crowd  and  the  world, 
to  gaze  in  solitude  and  silence  on  the  spot  which  en- 
closed all  i,hat  was  dearest  to  them  on  earth.  We 
shanned  them,  lest  we  should  seem  to  intrude  on  their 
sorrows. 

On  the  17th  we  attended  a  council  to  which  we  were 
summoned,  for  the  purpose  of  forming  a  church,  and  or- 
daining Mr.  Jrcob  Abbott  as  an  evangelist,  at  Roxbury, 
about  two  miles  from  Boston.  You  will  like  to  know 
the  order  of  proceeding.  The  first  business  was  to 
choose  a  moderator  ;  usually  the  senior  minister  present 
is  chosen  ;  but  on  Dr.  Jenks  pleading  excuse  on  account 
of  deafness,  Dr.  Codman  was  appointed.  Then  a  scribe 
for  the  occasion  is  chosen.  The  moderator  offers  prayer ; 
and  then,  on  explaining  the  purport  of  their  meeting, 
challenges  any  persons  present  to  say  whether  they  are 
prepared  to  offer  themselves  to  be  examined  as  suitable 
to  com©  into  a  state  of  church-fellowship.  A  member 
of  a  committee  of  arrangement,  Mr.  Abbott,  arose,  and 
stated  that  forty-five  persons  by  letter,  and  six  on  pro- 
fession, were  ready  to  offer  themselves,  and  had  been 
approved  by  the  committee.  A  committee  of  two  of  the 
council  was  appointed  to  examine  and  report.  They  re- 
ported that  the  letters  were  examined,  and  were  regular 
and  satisfactory ;  but  that  they  had  not  examined  those 
who  offered  themselves  on  profession ;  and  they  sub- 
mitted that,  as  they  had  been  examined  by  Mr.  Abbott, 
an  accredited  minister  among  them,  it  was  unnecessary. 
The  report  was  accepted,  and  the  usual  examinations 
waived  on  the  special  ground  taken. 

Mr.  Abbott  further  reported,  that  the  committee  ad- 
vised him  (Mr.  Abbott)  to  offer  himself  for  ordination  as 


ORDER    OF    SERVICE. 


309 


aterially  affect  the 
and  a  par.,/  is  so 
lich  wind  about  the 
urposes  of  recrea- 
)ne  of  the  secluded 
lich  had  been  just 
ie  widowers  stand- 
owd  and  the  woild, 
he  spot  which  en- 
on  earth.      We 

0  intrude  on  their 

to  which  we  were 
a  church,  and  or- 
jelist,  at  Roxbury, 
will  like  to  know 
business  was  to 
or  minister  present 
excuse  on  account 
d.     Then  a  scribe 
rator  offers  prayer ; 
of  their  meeting, 
y  whether  they  are 
imined  as  suitable 
(Tship.     A  member 
Abbott,  arose,  and 
ir,  and  six  on  pro- 
ves, and  had  been 
nittee  of  two  of  the 

1  report.  They  re- 
,  and  were  regular 
lOt  examined  those 
in ;  and  they  sub- 
led  by  Mr.  Abbott, 
i  was  unnecessary, 
isual  examinations 

the  committee  ad- 
ilf  for  ordination  as 


an  evangelist ;  and  that  he  was  prepared  to  be  examined 
to  that  issue.  Special  reasons  were  required  for  his  de- 
siring to  be  ordained  as  an  evangelist,  and  not  as  a 
pastor ;  and  in  this  case  were  deemed  sufficient.  He 
then  presented  his  certificate  of  education,  and  his  license 
to  exercise  the  ministry  ;  and  stood  for  his  examination. 
A  vote  was  taken  to  refer  the  leading  inquiries  to  the 
moderator ;  but  several  of  the  council  soon  took  part  in 
them,  though  always  careful  to  do  it  through  the  chair. 

The  examination  was  limited  to  the  opinions  of  the 
candidate  on  dogmatic  theology,  church  discipline,  and 
his  experimental  acquaintance  with  the  truth  he  professed 
to  acknowledge.  When  the  examinations  were  finished, 
the  moderator  announced  that  the  council  would  be  alone. 
Immediately  all  strangers,  including  the  candidates  for 
membership  and  ordination,  withdrew.  The  deliberations 
of  the  council  continued  some  time,  but  they  were  con- 
fidential. There  was  a  want  of  unanimity  ;  and  it  was 
therefore  thought  advisable  to  see  Mr.  Abbott  again. 
The  examinations  were  renewed,  and  explanations  were 
candidly  given.  The  candidate  was  then  requested  to 
retire,  and  a  vote  was  taken,  "  that  the  council  do  pro- 
ceed to  the  ordination  of  Mr.  Jacob  Abbott." 

The  order  of  the  ordination  service  was  then  agreed 
to,  and  the  council  adjourned  to  the  Baptist  Church,  at 
which  the  service  was  to  be,  as  affording  better  accom- 
modation. We  had  been  pressed  to  take  part  in  the 
service  ;  but  the  examinations  had  been  so  much  longer 
than  usual,  as  to  make  it  necessary  to  leave  immediately, 
to  comply  with  other  engagements.  The  following  is  the 
order  of  service,  as  it  was  printed  for  the  use  of  the  con- 
gregation : — 

Formation  of  the  Church. 

READING  THE  SCRIPTURES.       HYMN. 
INTRODUCTORY  ADDRESS — REV.  MR.  BURGESS. 
ORGANIZING    THE    CHURCH    AND    CONSECRATIN 
PRAYER REV.  DR.  CODMAN. 


310 


ELIOT  CHURCH. 


HYMN. 

"  'Tis  done— the  sreat  transaction's  dona  ; 
I  am  my  Lord  s,  and  he  is  mine  : 
He  drew  me,  and  I  followed  on, 
Rejoiced  to  own  the  call  divine. 

"  Now  rest,  my  long  divided  heart, 
Fix'd  on  this  blissful  centre,  rest, 
Here  h  ive  I  found  a  nobler  part. 

Here  heavenly  pleaburcs  fill  my  breast. 

"  High  Heaven,  that  hears  the  solemn  vow. 
That  vow  renewed  shall  daily  hear ; 
Till  in  life's  latest  hour  I  bow. 

And  bless  in  death  a  bond  so  dear." 


RIGHT    HAND     OP    FELLOWSHIP    TO     THE     CHURCH, 
REV.  MR.  WINSLOW. 

Ordination. 


t     •  ■  f 


ORDAINING   PRAYER REV.    MR.    OILE. 

CHARGE REV.   DR.    \\riSNER. 

RIGHT    HAND    OF   FELL  :?WSHIP  TO  THE   CANDIDATE, 
REV.    MR.   N.    ADAMS. 
HYMN.       ADDRESS — REV.    MR.   BLAGDEN. 
CONCLUDING  PRAYER.      DOXOLOGY.      BENEDICTION. 


?■• 


There  was  one  circumstance  of  interest  in  this  case. 
The  first  church  in  Roxbury  had  EUot,  the  missionary, 
for  its  pastor ;  there  had  been  no  orthodox  Congrega- 
tional church  from  that  time,  It  would  be  revived  in  the 
engagements  of  this  day ;  and  the  associated  saints  were 
to  take  the  name  of  the  Eliot  Church.  Mr.  Abbott  was 
still  to  labour  among  them ;  although  he  was  unwilling, 
in  their  existing  condition,  expressly  to  assume  the  re- 
lationship of  a  pastor. 

We  hastened  to  town,  to  attend  a  meeting  of  mer- 
chants on  the  subject  of  making  mercantile  pursuits 
auxiliary  to  missionary  objects.     We  met  at  Cowper's 


MEETING  OF  MERCHANTS. 


311 


THE  CHURCH, 


Rooms.  The  notice  was  short :  but  thirteen  gentlemen, 
out  of  twenty,  attended.  We  explained  the  design  of  the 
meeting,  the  objects  to  be  attained,  and  the  especial 
facilities  which  merchants,  as  such,  had  towards  their 
attainment.  We  stated  what  had  been  done  in  New- 
York  and  in  London ;  and  solicited  candid  opinion  on  the 
important  subject.  Many  interesting  and  affecting  state- 
ments were  made  ;  especially  of  the  abuses  practised  on 
the  sailor  when  on  shore.  Communication  followed 
communication,  till  each  one  seemed  to  wonder  that, 
when  so  much  evil  existed,  and  so  much  good  might  be 
done,  so  little  had  been  attempted.  The  consequence 
was,  that  they  unanimously  resolved  on  an  adjourned 
meeting,  to  which  other  pious  merchants  should  be  in- 
vited ;  and  a  sub-committee  was  appointed,  to  consider 
and  arrange  the  business.  The  subject  continued  before 
these  gentlemen  during  our  stay ;  and  possibly,  before 
this  shall  pass  from  my  hands,  further  information  may 
arrive. 

In  the  evening,  we  met,  at  Mr.  John  Tappan's,  a  party 
of  about  forty  persons.  I  gained  information  from  him 
on  the  subject  of  the  slavery  question.  Dr.  Beecher, 
whom  I  was  to  have  met  here  relative  to  that  matter,  had 
arrived  before  me.  Some  meetings,  however,  had  been 
held,  and  a  plan  was  under  discussion.  I  was  invited  to 
attend  a  meeting  of  the  provisional  committee,  but  was 
unable.  If  the  subject  is  well  managed  at  this  crisis,  it 
may  do  every  thing ;  but  I  have  my  fears.  The  party 
was  very  agreeable,  and  well  informed.  We  were 
mostly  on  our  feet,  forming  little  groups  in  the  different 
rooms;  and  participating  of  coffee,  tea,  cake,  lemonade, 
ices,  and  fruits,  which  were  served  in  succession.  Our 
intercourse  was  closed,  as  usual,  with  an  act  of  worshi}), 
and  we  retired  between  ten  and  eleven  o'clock. 

While  on  this  visit,  I  inspected  the  State  Prison,  the 
Athenaeum,  the  Schools,  the  State  House  ;  and  obtained 
the  particulars  of  the  Savings  Bank  and  other  institu- 
tions. I  was  particularly  concerned  to  know  what  were 
the  pursuits  and  the  progress  of  the   children  in  the 


312 


MEETING    OP   MINISTERS. 


I  ( 


'■I 


coloured  schools  ;  and  )  certainly  think  their  parts  are, 
on  an  average,  equal  to  those  of  the  whites ;  they  are, 
perhaps,  usually  quicker,  though  not  more  »olid.  The 
master  here,  who  had  had  considerable  experience  in 
both,  assured  me  that  it  was  quite  as  easy  to  teach  the 
blacks.  It  was  somewhat  curious  to  hear  them  ad- 
dressed as  master  and  miss.  Here  the  coloured  popula- 
tion are  free ;  and  the  circumstance  of  bond  or  free 
enters  materially  into  the  development  of  the  faculties ; 
especially  those  of  the  superior  class. 

On  the  19th  we  attended  a  convention  of  ministers, 
called  at  our  suggestion.  We  had  upwards  of  twenty 
brethren  present ;  and  Dr.  Stuart,  who  was  visiting  Boa* 
ton,  presided.  We  remained  together  about  two  hours, 
and  received,  in  free  intercourse,  most  important  and 
cheering  information  relative  to  the  state  of  religion. 
We  took  tea  at  Dr.  Wisner's,  and  then  hastened  to  a 
public  and  farewell  meeting,  which  was  to  be  held  at 
Park-siiset  Church.  Supposing  that  such  a  meeting 
would  be  freely  attended,  it  had  been  wisely  made 
select,  by  announcing  it  as  a  meeting  of  pastors  and 
churches.  Such  a  notice,  with  us,  would  certainly  have 
little  effect  in  giving  selectness  to  a  meeting ;  but  here 
it  would  be  generally  understood  to  limit  it  to  the  mem- 
bers of  churches,  and  would,  generally,  be  obeyed.  In 
fact,  on  arriving  at  the  place,  we  found  it  full,  and, 
mostly,  with  members  of  the  several  churches.  And  it 
was  truly  a  most  exhilarating  sight.  We  had  before 
been  sympathizing  deeply  with  the  orthodox,  in  the 
gradual  introduction  and  prevalence  of  corrupt  opinions, 
and  in  the  reviving  energy  of  the  truth  in  more  recent 
days;  and  here  was  the  evidence  before  our  eyes.  I 
suppose  3,000  persons  were  present ;  and  they  were,  for 
the  most  part,  the  choicest  members  of  the  various  com- 
munities. The  service  was  composed  of  three  prayers 
and  three  addresses,  with  the  usual  singing.  The 
prayers  were  offered  by  Mr.  Blagden,  and  Drs.  Jenks 
and  Codman.  The  addresses  were  taken  by  the  Depu- 
tation and  Dr.  Stuart.     The  professor,  in  the  name  of  the 


'ERS. 

ink  their  parts  are, 
'  whites  ;  they  are, 

more  8olid.  The 
able  experience  in 
s  easy  to  teach  the 

to  hear  them  ad- 
iie  coloured  popula- 
:o  of  bond  or  free 
nt  of  the  faculties ; 

sntion  of  ministers, 
upwards  of  twenty 
[)  was  visiting  Bos- 
3r  about  two  hours, 
lost  important  and 

state  of  religion. 

then  hastened  to  a 

was  to  be  held  at 

It   such  a  meeting 

been  wisely  made 

ng  of  pastors  and 

ould  certainly  have 

meeting ;  but  here 

imit  it  to  the  mem- 

ly,  be  obeyed.     In 

found  it  full,  and, 

churches.     And  it 

We  had  before 

orthodox,  in  the 
f  corrupt  opinions, 
ith  in  more  recent 
sfore  our  eyes.     I 

and  they  were,  for 
f  the  various  com- 

d  of  three  prayers 
al  singing.  The 
n,  and  Drs.  Jenks 
aken  by  the  Depu- 

in  the  name  of  the 


DORCESTER. 


313 


churches,  congratulated  us  on  our  visit,  expatiated  on  its 
good  and  kindly  influence,  and  assured  us,  and  the 
churches  we  represented,  of  their  sympathy  and  affection. 

At  the  close,  we  all  rose,  and  sang  that  lavourite 
hymn,  "  BlessM  be  the  tie  that  binds,"  &c.  We  were  six 
brethren  in  the  pulpit ;  and  as  the  sacred  melody  went  to 
its  close,  we  found  ourselves  spontaneously  locked  arm 
to  arm.  It  was  a  very  affecting  and  delightful  service. 
We  were  of  one  heart,  and  one  mind,  and  one  voice ; 
the  only  difficulty  was  in  parting.  Slowly  the  people 
moved  away  that  night,  and  many  were  the  aflfectionate 
greetings.  But  the  last  words  would  come,  and  the  last 
lingerer  must  leave  the  now  forsaken  house  of  God.  I 
had  peculiar  sen^  .tions  on  quitting  that  church.  I  had 
been  within  it  so  often,  and  on  such  delightful  occasions ; 
and  it  was  now  to  receive  me  no  more. 

We  had  still  to  pass  a  couple  of  days  in  the  city.  On 
the  Saturday,  we  dined  at  Dr.  Codman's,  wi^n  a  number 
of  esteemed  friends.  He  resides  at  Dorchester,  a  de- 
lightful village,  about  six  miles  from  Boston;  and  his 
residence  commands  a  prospect  which  is  at  once  rural 
and  magnificent.  Dr.  Codman  received  his  education  in 
Britain,  and  he  seems  to  have  been  prepared  by  Provi- 
dence for  the  station  he  has  been  called  to  occupy. 
When  heresy  came  in  like  a  flood  over  Boston,  it  spread 
also  over  much  of  its  vicinity.  He  saw  one  after 
another  swept  away  by  it,  frequently  his  particular 
friends,  but  he  remained  firm ;  and  when  at  last  it 
reached  himself,  he  stood  immoveable.  He  was  subject- 
ed to  violent  persecution  for  the  truth's  sake ;  aiid  a  de- 
termined effort  was  made  to  deprive  him  of  the  church  in 
which  he  laboured,  but  without  success. 

When  almost  every  thing  else  was  possessed  by  the 
enemy,  Dorchester  remained  as  a  commanding  and  im- 
pregnable outpost;  secure  in  itself,  and  waiting  for  the 
first  opportunities  of  favourable  action.  Those  opportu- 
nities have  come,  and  have  been  improved;  and  our 
friend's  firmness,  conciliation,  and  extensive  influence, 
have  contributed,  with  other  means,  in  no  small  degree, 

Vol.  I.— O  97 


■w 


314 


DORCHESTER. 


I  ; 


l!  .1 


I 


to  the  change  which  he  has  witnessed.  He  now  rejoices 
in  comparing  the  present  with  the  past ;  he  deserves  and 
he  enjoys  the  esteem  and  confidence  of  his  younger 
brethren,  as  one  who  has  borne  "  the  heat  and  burden  of 
the  day ;"  and  to  him  the  words  of  a  higher  testimony 
seem  peculiarly  appropriate — "  I  know  thy  work,  and 
thy  labour,  and  thy  patience,  and  how  thou  canst  not 
bear  them  that  are  evil ;  and  thou  hast  tried  them  who 
say  they  are  apostles,  and  are  not,  and  hast  found  them 
liars ;  and  hast  borne,  and  hast  patience,  and  for  my 
name's  sake  hast  laboured,  and  hast  not  fainted !" 

Apart  from  his  general  influence.  Dr.  Codman's  labours 
for  his  particular  charge  have  been  followed  with  the  best 
results.  Besides  his  other  advantages,  he  holds  a  con- 
siderable patrimony,  and  has  a  consort  qualified  to  unite 
with  him  in  every  plan  of  benevolence.  Here  are  Sab- 
bath schools,  working  schools,  and  an  academy  for  supe- 
rior education.  The  ignorant  are  taught ;  the  sick  find 
medicine  and  sympathy ;  and  the  poor  are  prompted  to 
adopt  methods  of  domestic  thrift  and  decency.  The 
whole  village  presents  an  excellent  example  of  the  effect 
of  religion  so  administered.  No  children  are  left  to  grow 
up  in  ignorance ;  few  persons  abstain  from  a  place  of 
worship :  and  here,  where  every  thing  else  is  on  a  small 
scale,  the  schools  and  churches  assume  an  imposing 
character. 

On  leaving  our  friend's  hospitable  abode,  I  returned 
to  town  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Armstrong,  to  attend  a  few 
friends  at  their  residence  in  an  exercise  of  prayer. 
Messrs.  Tappan,  Hubbard,  and  Stoddard,  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Edwards,  and  Dr.  Wisner,  were  of  the  party.  It  was  a 
refreshing  evening,  and  a  suitable  preparation  for  the 
Sabbath. 

On  the  following  day,  the  last  of  our  continuance,  we 
preached  alternately  at  the  Old  South  in  the  morning, 
and  at  Dr.  Codman's  in  the  afternoon.  They  were  ser- 
vices I  shall  not  forget.  At  the  close  of  the  afternoon 
service,  Dr.  Codman  had  to  submit  to  his  church  an  ap- 
plication which  had  been  made  to  him  to  go  as  a  delegate 


JOURNEY    TO    HARTFORD. 


315 


to  England ;  and  he  solicited  me  to  preside  on  the  occa- 
sion. On  requesting  the  church  to  remain,  I  was  struck 
and  gratified  to  find  a  majority  of  the  congregation  stay. 
In  most  congregations,  on  such  a  notice  being  given,  how 
small  a  minority  would  have  retained  their  seats  !  Dr. 
Codman  explained  the  application,  and  submitted  his 
views  to  them.  I  then  addressed  them.  It  was  to  me 
and  to  them  an  interesting  subject.  It  was  proposed 
and  seconded,  in  the  form  of  a  resolution ;  and  on  taking 
the  sense  of  the  church,  it  was  unanimously  carried. 
There  was  certainly  something  remarkable  in  an  English 
delegate  being  called  to  act  on  such  an  occasion. 


LETTER  XXVII. 


sume  an  imposing 


Mv  DKAR  Friend, 
On  the  morning  of  the  22d,  at  half  past  two  o'clock, 
we  quitted  Boston  for  Hartford.  The  ride  is  not  suffi- 
ciently interesting  to  justify  me  in  detaining  your  atten- 
tion on  it.  We  arrived  late  in  the  evening,  and  sought 
at  the  inn  immediate  repose.  Early  in  the  morning  our 
kind  friends  were  about  us,  and  saw  us  comfortably 
settled.  I  was  received  into  the  family  of  Mr.  Hudson, 
an  intimate  friend  of  Mr.  Boorman. 

I  had  written  previously  to  Dr.  Hawes  of  this  place, 
from  Northampton,  expressing  regret  that  we  had  not 
been  able  to  meet  the  brethren  of  Connecticut  at  their 
usual  meeting,  and  stating  the  time  when  we  expected  to 
be  at  Hartford,  in  the  hope  that  some  of  them  might  be 
brought  together  at  that  period.  He  had  acted  promptly 
to  this  end ;  meetings  were  arranged  for  the  whole  day 
that  we  might  not  be  idle  ;  and  so  readily  was  the  call 
obeyed,  that  we  had  a  larger  association  of  the  brethren 
than  had  occurred  for  a  long  season. 

Hartford  is  a  pleasant  and  thriving  tow^n  on  the  banks 

03 


I  • 


316 


HARTFORD. 


1  >  ' 


of  the  Connecticut,  and  is  associated  with  interesting 
recollections.  It  was  first  settled  in  1635,  by  a  little 
colony  from  Massachusetts.  About  a  hundred  came,  and 
among  them  was  Thomas  Hooker,  the  first  minister  of  the 
place.  It  was  quite  an  adventure,  and  they  were  nine 
days  in  coming.  I  saw  his  tomb ;  and  it  is  remarkable 
that  the  church  over  which  he  presided  has  had  ten  pas> 
tors  ;  and  that  the  nine  who  have  died  all  lie  buried  in  one 
place.  In  the  same  ground  is  also  the  tomb  of  Winchester. 
It  is  singular,  that  while  the  heresy  of  this  man  has  died 
out  in  our  country,  it  is  thriving  as  an  exotic  in  America. 

There  is  shown  here  as  a  great  curiosity  what  is  called 
the  Charter  Oak.  It  is  considered  to  be  an  aboriginal 
of  the  forest;  and  though  it  has  seen  a  city  grow  up 
about  it,  and  generations  pass  away,  it  is  still  full  of  vig- 
our, and  crowned  with  living  beauty.  It  is  as  sacred  to 
the  people  as  it  would  be  to  a  race  of  Druids,  from  the 
following  circumstances.  Sir  Edmund  Andross  was  sent 
over  in  1687,  to  demand  the  charter  of  the  colony.  He 
had  a  meeting  with  the  responsible  parties  on  the  sub- 
ject ;  and  when  Wadsworth  comprehended  his  intentions, 
he  threw  his  cloak  over  the  table,  extinguished  the  lights, 
and  disappeared  with  the  charter.  It  was  carefully  hid- 
den in  the  body  of  this  venerable  tree,  and  remained  there 
for  many  years.  When  there  was  nothing  more  to  ap- 
prehend for  it,  it  was  taken  out,  and  is  now  deposited 
in  the  office  of  the  Secretary  of  State. 

There  is  here  also  an  hospital  for  the  insane  ;  an  asy- 
lum for  the  deaf  and  dumb ;  and  a  college  for  the  educa- 
tion of  young  men  trained  fur  the  Episcopal  Church. 
They  all  contribute  to  ornament  and  commend  the  town. 
The  asylum  has  acquired  distinction,  even  in  comparison 
with  those  of  Paris  and  London ;  and  is  excellently  bon- 
ducted.  The  Episcopal  college  is  a  good  establishment ; 
and  capable  of  accommodating  about  100  pupils.  It  is 
not,  I  believe,  in  a  very  vigorous  condition.  The  col- 
lege bills  for  the  year  are  fifty-two  dollars ;  and  the 
students  get  their  board  in  private  families  at  one  dollar 
and  a  half  per  week. 


i     i 


CONFERENCE. 


317 


Our  first  meeting  was  with  the  brethren  at  ten  o'clock. 
We  met  in  the  lecture-room,  connected  with  Dr.  Hawes's 
church.  There  were  no  less  than  seventy  or  eighty  pres- 
ent. We  remained  in  conference  and  prayer  till  one. 
The  conference  was  of  the  most  fraternal  and  interesting 
kind.  It  related  to  the  state  of  religion  in  the  two  coun- 
tries. The  communications  on  the  subject  of  revivals 
were  edifying ;  and  the  statements  of  Professor  Goodrich, 
on  the  revivals  among  the  students  at  Yale  College, 
were  such  as  moved  him  and  all  of  us.  They  were 
very  desirous  to  learn  our  state  ;  and  were  cheered  and 
grateful  on  receiving  the  communications  we  felt  at  liberty 
to  supply.  Particularly  they  were  anxious  to  know, 
whether  we  had  any  thing  approaching  to  the  character 
of  their  revivals.  I  remarked  that  we  had  not  the  name  ; 
and  that  we  had  not,  and  wore  even  jealous  of,  some 
varieties  of  the  thing,  as  they  might  be  found  in  the  States ; 
but  that  I  thought  we  had  in  substance  what  they  would 
be  most  disposed  to  approve.  Without  employing  any 
names,  I  then  gave  them  a  brief  sketch  of  a  church  with 
which  I  was  intimately  acquainted,  relative  to  its  progress, 
and  the  means  employed  to  that  end,  during  ..he  last  ten 
years.  They  were  delighted,  and  exclaimed,  "  Why, 
this  is  a  revival,  and  the  only  kind  of  a  revival  which  we 
approve."  Our  sitting  was  very  long  considering  our 
other  engagements  ;  but  we  were  as  brethren,  and  were 
exceedingly  unwilling  to  part. 

At  two,  we  had  to  attend  a  special  meeting  of  the 
Bible  Society.  The  Association  embraced  four  counties ; 
and  it  had  engaged  to  raise  5,000  dollars  towards  the 
assistance  of  Gutzlaff,  in  circulating  the  Scriptures  among 
the  Chinese.  Nothing  could  have  assorted  with  my 
wishes  better ;  and  I  was  happy  to  give  my  help  to  such 
a  cause.  The  meeting  was  in  the  church,  and  was  very 
well  attendeu.  It  was  conducted  in  the  usual  order  of 
the  platform  meetings,  and  contributed  to  facilitate  the 
object  to  which  they  were  pledged. 

One  of  the  friends  had  open  house  to  tea.  There  were 
several  rooms  occupied.     One  of  them  is  honoured  with 

27* 


318 


MISSIONARY    ORDINATION. 


i  > 


;! 


!  •   i 

t  :  ; 

[ 

:       I 

1 


having  witnessed  the  formation  of  the  Missionary  Soci- 
ety. Mrs.  Sigourney  was  one  of  our  party ;  and  I  was 
gratified  with  an  introduction  to  her.  We  had  a  tite-d- 
We  of  a  few  minutes ;  and  had  no  fault  to  find  with  them, 
except  that  they  were  few,  and  likely  to  be  final. 

In  the  evening  we  attended  the  ordination  of  two 
brethren ;  the  one  about  to  leave  as  a  missionary  to  the 
sailors  at  Marseilles,  and  the  other  as  an  evangelist. 
We  met  in  Dr.  Hawes's  church  again,  and  the  place  was 
very  full.     The  service   began  by  singing.     Then  an 
invocation  prayer  was  offered,  which  noticed  distinctly 
all  the  succeeding  parts  of  the  service,  and  craved  the 
suitable  blessing  on  each  and  all.     Then  the  scribe  read 
the  minutes  which  led  to  this  public  service,  and  justified 
their  proceeding.     The  ordination  prayer  followed,  with 
the  laying  on  of  hands ;  it  rested  with  me.     The  charge 
was  given  by  Dr.  Parkins,  the  father  of  the  Association, 
and  eighty-two  years  of  age.     It  was  composed  of  short, 
suitable,  and  pithy  counsel,  as  from  a  father  to  his  sons, 
and  lasted  about  twenty  minutes.     The  right  hand  of 
fellowship  was  then  given.    The  pastor  of  the  missionary, 
a  junior  pastor  in  the  town,  took  this  service.     It  is  always 
made  more  of  2tian  with  us ;  but  I  never  saw  so  much 
made  of  it  before.     The  address  was  composed  and  read, 
which  destroyed  that  freedom  which  is  the  grace  of  grat- 
ulation  and  benediction.     It  was,  I  think,  as  long  as  the 
charge.     The  right  hand  was  given  three  several  times, 
and  the  manner  altogether  was  too  theatrical.     It  had 
been  excellently  done,  had  it  not  been  overdone;  but 
there  was,  after  all,  a  warmth  of  heart  that  redeemed  it. 
The  instructions  from  the  Sailor's  Society  to  their  mis- 
sionary were  then  read  by  their  agent.     We  afterward 
rose,  and  united  in  singing  once  more  their  favourite 
hymn,  "  Bless'd  be  the  tie  that  binds,"  &c.,  and  the  ser- 
vice closed  by  prayer  and  the  benediction. 

Having  breakfasted  and  united  in  domestic  worship, 
we  took  an  affectionate  leave  of  the  friends  here,  and  left 
by  the  stage  for  New-Haven.  The  ride  greatly  improved 
in  comparis&n  with  the  last.    The  flowing  river,  fine  rich 


NEW-IIAVE\. 


319 


valleys,  towns  and  villages  imbosomed  in  ihem,  and  sur- 
rounding highlands,  in  their  various  combinations,  filled 
the  eye,  and  exhilarated  the  imagination.  We  arrived 
at  New-Haven  early  in  the  afternoon,  and  found  Mrs. 
Whitney  prepared  with  the  most  hospitable  kindness  to  re- 
ceive us.  This  excellent  lady  is  the  relict  of  Eli  Whitney, 
Esq.,  the  inventor  of  the  cotton  gin — the  Arkwright  of 
America.  Though  his  name  has  been  little  honoured  in 
his  own  country,  and  scarcely  known  in  ours,  his  genius 
has  secured  an  important  trade  to  the  Southern  States, 
and  is  annually  bringing  a  large  revenue  to  the  govern- 
ment. He  discovered  the  same  force  of  mechanical 
genius  in  other  ways ;  and  though  he  sunk  under  the 
persevering  ardour  of  his  muid,  and  the  discouragements 
common  to  the  inventor,  his  family  are  deriving  consid- 
erable advantages  from  his  labours.  I  should  offend 
against  feminine  and  Christian  delicacy,  if  I  said  how 
much,  in  this  instance,  property  is  made  to  serve  the  cause 
of  religious  benevolence.  Mrs.  Whitney  is  the  grand- 
daughter of  President  Edwards. 

We  found  that  a  public  meeting  had  been  arranged 
for  us  in  the  evening ;  so  that  we  had  to  hasten  our  re- 
freshments, and  attend  it.  Meantime  the  professors  and 
other  friends  did  us  the  favour  to  call. 

The  meeting  was  at  the  Congregational  Church,  of 
which  the  Rev.  L.  Bacon  is  pastor.  It  is  large  and 
handsome,  and  was  quite  filled.  Here  we  met  with  Dr. 
Beecher,  and  he  took  a  seat  with  us  in  the  pulpit.  Pra}  er 
was  offered ;  and  the  Deputation  made  addresses.  After 
I  had  finished,  Dr.  Beecher  followed.  It  was  a  very 
interesting  service ;  nowhere  had  the  New-England  peo- 
ple shown  more  readiness  to  receive  the  delegation  with 
respect  and  affect<on. 

In  the  morning,  Mr.  Matheson,  who  had  been  here 
before,  left  for  New- York ;  I  stayed  over  this  day,  and 
occupied  it  in  making  myself  acquainted  with  this  im- 
portant town. 

New-Haven  is  considered  to  be  the  most  handsome 
town  in  the  States ;  and  every  one  inquires  of  the  stran- 


320 


NEW-HAVEN. 


it; 


ger  whether  he  has  seen  New-Haven  1  I  cannot  exactly 
ac  cord  with  this  opinion  ;  but,  without  comparisons,  it  is 
handsome  enough,  and  has  attractions  of  a  higher  class, 
to  which  few  towns  can  have  even  a  pretence.  It  is 
placed  on  a  small  plain,  which  is  redeemed  from  tame- 
ness  by  the  bay,  with  its  fine  headlands  in  front,  and  by 
the  west  and  east  rocks,  with  the  distant  peak  of  Mount 
Carmel  in  the  background.  This  plain  is  laid  out  in 
squares ;  so  that  the  streets  cross  each  other  at  right 
angles.  They  are  unusually  wide  ;  and  on  each  side 
are  planted  with  tl  "^  drooping  elm,  which  flourishes  here 
in  high  luxuriance. 

One  of  these  squares  is  left  onen,  as  a  g.een  and 
promenade  ;  and  it  is  here  that  the  great  beauty  of  the 
town  is  concentrated.  Round  three  sides  of  ttis  large 
area,  stand  some  of  the  best  dwellings  in  the  place. 
The  remaining  side  is  occupied  by  the  several  erections 
of  the  college ;  and  in  the  centre  of  it  are  placed,  with 
intervening  distances,  three  churches  and  the  State  House. 
These  buildings,  especially  the  State  House,  are  admi- 
rably adapted  to  become  ihe  principal  objects  of  the  pic- 
ture ;  and  the  verdant  foreground,  with  the  breaks  which 
allow  the  eye  to  take  in  parts  of  the  old  college,  make, 
indeed,  a  noble  sight.  But  the  charm  of  this,  as  of  other 
views,  is  derived  from  the  overspreading  foliage  of  the 
trees,  which  softens  down  the  hard  lines  and  bright  objects 
delightfully,  and  which  forms,  as  you  pass  about,  those 
lovely  vistas  of  light  and  shade  in  which  the  eye  rejoices. 
New-Haven  is  a  city  in  a  wood,  and  a  wood  in  a  city. 
It  wants,  however,  a  strong  sun  to  appreciate  it.  On  a 
cold  and  heavy  day  it  might  appear  cheerless ;  but  give 
it  a  fine  warm  sun  and  a  playful  breeze,  and  whose 
shades  shall  be  so  refreshing  ?  whose  light  so  sparkling 
and  animated  ? 

President  Day,  Professor  Goodrich,  Dr.  Skinner,  and 
Mr.  Bacon,  obligmgly  attended  me  over  the  colleges.. 
They  are  old ;  raised  of  red  brick ;  and  have  little  to 
commend  them  beyond  their  venerable  and  quiet  aspect. 
The  observatory  on  t^&  pertral  buildings  is  a  copy  of  the 


mm 


?  I  cannot  exactly 
t  comparisons,  it  is 

of  a  higher  class, 

a  pretence.  It  is 
ideemed  from  tame- 
ids  in  front,  and  by 
tant  peak  of  Mount 
)lain  is  laid  out  in 
each  other  at  right 

and  on  each  side 
hich  flourishes  here 

in,  as  a  gvecn  and 
great  beauty  of  the 

sides  of  tl.is  large 
Ungs  in  the  place. 
le  several  erections 

it  are  placed,  with 
ind  the  State  House, 
e  House,  are  admi- 
1  objects  of  the  pic- 
th  the  breaks  which 
e  old  college,  make, 
n  of  this,  as  of  other 
ading  foliage  of  the 
es  and  bright  objects 
1  pass  about,  those 
ich  the  eye  rejoices. 

a  wood  in  a  city, 
ppreciate  it.  On  a 
cheerless ;  but  give 
breeze,  and  whose 
e  light  so  sparkling 

h,  Dr.  Skinner,  and 
over  the  colleges., 
and  have  little  to 

le  and  quiet  aspect. 

ngs  is  a  copy  of  the 


YALE    COLLEGE. 


321 


Tower  of  the  Winds.  As  a  whole,  they  are  spacious. 
In  the  year  1833,  they  accommodated  496  students, 
who  were  proportioned  as  follows : — theology,  forty- 
nine  ;  law,  twenty-one ;  medical,  sixty-one ;  resident 
graduates,  six ;  seniors,  seventy-one ;  juniors,  eighty- 
seven  ;  sophomores,  ninety-five ;  and  freshmen,  one  hun- 
dred and  six.  The  expense  of  tuition  and  lodging  is 
about  fifty  dollars ;  and  of  board  in  commons,  seventy- 
five  dollars.  There  is  a  good  philosophical  chamber 
and  apparatus  here,  and  an  excellent  chymical  laboratory. 
The  library  has  two  departments ;  the  general  and  the 
students':  in  both  there  are  above  24,000  volumes. 
There  is  a  picture-gallery,  which  has  one  room  devoted 
to  the  productions  of  Colonel  Trumbull.  I  had  seen 
most  of  his ;  but  none  equal  to  some  of  these.  There 
were  two  that  raised  my  idea  of  his  talents.  Most  of 
those  in  the  second  room  were  daubs ;  and  could  only 
have  been  placed  there  to  cover  the  walls,  till  something 
better  should  be  obtained. 

The  gem  of  the  place,  however,  is  the  mineral  cabinet. 
Two  French  collections  were  purchased,  and  are  its 
basis.  For  the  variety  and  rarity  of  its  specimens,  as 
well  as  for  its  excellent  arrangement,  it  is  unrivalled  by 
any  thing  in  America,  and  surpassed  by  few  in  Europe. 
It  has  been  secured  at  great  expense,  and  is  a  noble 
effort ;  and  it  will  exert  a  beneficial  effect  on  every  de- 
partment of  this  university.  I  could  not  help  observing, 
that  while  it  was  felt  to  be  greatly  in  advance  of  every 
other  provision,  its  tendency  was  to  raise  the  rest  to  its 
own  exalted  level.  Whether  this  was  within  the  view 
of  those  who  have  pressed  this  purchase,  I  know  not ; 
but  if  it  were,  the  movement  was  the  offspring  of  true 
philosophy. 

Dr.  Dwight  was  the  president  of  this  college.  The 
American  Journal  of  Science  and  Arts  may  be  con- 
sidered as  issuing  from  it,  as  it  is  conducted  by  Profes- 
sor Silliman,  whose  name  is  familiarized  in  the  Old  and 
New  World. 

Schools,  of  every  sort  and  grade,  abound  here  to  an 

03 


322 


BURIAL-GROUND. 


astonishing  degree.  The  whole  town  seems  only  a 
larger  college  for  the  purposes  of  education,  male  and 
female,  adult  and  juvenile.  From  the  celebrity  of  the 
spot,  many  are  sent  here  for  the  purpose  of  education ; 
and  from  its  other  attractions,  many  families  settle  here, 
to  facilitate  their  children's  instruction.  The  influence 
is  general,  striking,  and  most  agreeable.  Ordinary 
society  has  an  air  of  selectness  which  seldom  prevails. 
The  people  have  an  intelligence  and  refinement  which 
you  do  not  expect ;  and  the  tone  of  mind,  and  of  morals 
too,  is  raised  by  the  elastic  and  renovating  element  of 
knowledge  and  discipline  in  which  they  dwell.  Offences 
seldom  arise  here ;  the  poor-house  is  empty ;  and  though 
the  benevolence  of  the  people  has  lately  erected  an  hos- 
pital, there  is  seldom  any  one  to  need  its  aid. 

We  visited  the  burial-ground.  It  is  considered  the 
most  beautiful  in  this  country  ;  and  ^  traveller,  following 
this  impression,  calls  it  "  the  Pere  la  Chaise."  No  two 
things  can  be  more  unlike  than  it  and  P^re  la  Chaise. 
It  is  of  considerable  extent ;  has  a  flat  surface ;  and  is 
kept  with  unusual  care  and  in  excellent  order.  Theso 
latter  circumstances  would  be  enough  to  commend  it  to 
most  Americans  as  beautiful ;  from  being  differently  situ 
ated,  our  tastes  are  different.  After  all,  that  taste  must 
be  strangely  perverted  which  should  prefer  this  cem- 
etery to  that  of  Mount  Auburn. 

But,  to  the  description.  It  is,  as  I  have  said,  large, 
well  enclosed,  and  nicely  kept.  It  is  supplied  with  a 
great  number  of  stones  and  monuments  ;  some  of  them 
expensive  and  handsome ;  the  favourite  form,  if  my 
memory  serves  me,  is  that  of  a  miniature  obelisk  of  mar- 
ble. That  of  Eli  Whitney  is  very  good.  The  custom 
is,  never  to  open  the  same  spot  a  second  time  ;  so  that  a 
family  requires  a  considerable  space  for  interment. 
This  leads  to  the  enclosure  of  large  family  plots,  with 
white  rails ;  ^'.  hich  have  not  a  good  effect.  The  fine 
trees  which  abound  elsewhere  are  excluded  here. — 
Nothing  appears  but  some  straight  poplars,  with  their 
heads  dying  off;  and  which  least  of  all  are  suited  to  a 
spot,  already  too  formal  by  its  fiat  surface  and  angular 


D. 


CAVE    OP   THE    IIEGICIDE. 


3?/3 


town  seems  only  a 
f  education,  male  and 
n  the  celebrity  of  the 
purpose  of  education ; 
y  families  settle  here, 
ction.  The  influence 
igreeable.  Ordinary 
hich  seldom  prevails, 
and  refinement  which 
f  mind,  and  of  morals 
3novating  element  of 
they  dwell.  Offences 
is  empty ;  and  though 
lately  erected  an  hos- 
ed its  aid. 
It  is  considered  the 

9.  traveller,  following 
la  Chaise."  No  two 
t  and  P^re  la  Chaise, 
a  flat  surface ;  and  is 
lellent  order.  These 
igh  to  commend  it  to 
being  differently  situ 
r  all,  that  taste  must 
lid  prefer  this  cem- 

s  I  have  said,  large, 
t  is  supplied  with  a 
nts  ;  some  of  them 
ourite  form,  if  my 
Kture  obelisk  of  mar- 
good.  The  custom 
ond  time ;  so  that  a 
ace  for  interment. 
e  family  plots,  with 
effect.  The  fine 
excluded  here. — 
oplars,  with  their 
all  are  suited  to  a 
lurface  and  angular 


lines.  Judicious  plant'rg  might  yet  make  it  almost  what 
it  claims  to  be. 

There  was  one  portion  of  this  cemetery  that  especially 
interested  me.  The  interments  of  the  old  ground  were 
removed  to  this.  They  have  all  been  wisely  placed  to- 
gether ;  and  their  broken  tablets,  weather-worn  surfaces, 
and  decayed  inscriptions,  were  in  striking  contrast  with 
the  fresh,  and  bright,  and  marble  monuments  by  which 
they  were  surrounded ;  it  seemed  to  create  a  distinction 
in  those  regions  of  death,  where  all  distinctions  are 
annihilated. 

I  dined  at  President  Day's,  and  met  a  party  of  friends, 
among  whom  were  Dr.  Beecher  and  Professors  Good- 
rich, Skinner,  and  Fitch.  It  was  a  pleasant  interview ; 
but  I  had  to  leave  early,  to  join  some  friends  who  had 
proposed  to  drive  me  into  the  suburbs,  and  to  the  Caves 
of  the  Regicides.  This  ride  improves  your  opinion  of 
the  situation  of  New-Haven  considerably.  The  surface 
of  the  ground  becomes  varied  as  you  approach  it ;  the 
East  and  West  Rocks  grow  upon  the  eye,  and  stand  out 
in  imposing  attitudes.  Your  way  now  becomes  winding, 
and  is  gradually  rising,  till  you  find  yourself  fairly  among 
the  rocks,  and  shut  out  of  the  living  world.  Here,  under 
the  eye  of  a  little  cottage  of  the  woods,  we  left  our  car- 
riage, and  began  a  sharper  ascent,  through  the  copse- 
wood  and  stunted  trees,  which  ornamented  a  spot  where 
they  could  find  little  nourishment.  Still  we  ascended 
among  the  rugged  rocks,  often  uncertain  whether  we  had 
retained  the  right  track,  till  we  found  ourselves  on  the 
head  of  the  rock,  and  opposite  the  Judges'  or  Regicides' 
Cave.  It  is  formed  by  a  cluster  of  stones,  of  immense 
size,  and  thrown  together  as  if  by  some  great  convulsion 
of  nature.  The  crevices  in  these  rocks  form  the  cave. 
There  is  only  one  portion  of  these  large  enough  for 
human  habitation ;  and  here,  it  is  said,  with  certainty  I 
believe,  that  Goffe  and  Whalley  were  concealed  and 
succoured  for  a  considerable  time.  Though  it  could 
afford  but  small  accommodations  to  the  sufferers,  it  had 
some  advantages.  It  has  no  appearance  of  a  cave  till 
examined ;  it  is  near  the  town,  though  completely  con- 


«*i 


324 


CAVE    OF   THE    REGICIDES. 


!  ( 


;• 


8 


I       I     ■ 


cealed  from  it ;  and  there  are  various  ways  of  approach, 
to  prevent  detection  or  facilitate  escape.  On  one  of  the 
rocks  composing  tiiis  cave  is  this  inscription : — 

OPPOSITION    TO    TYRANTS    IS    OBEDIENCE    TO    GOD. 

The  spot  v\ras  full  of  moral  interest.  The  troubles  of 
England  had  then  reached  to  this  cave  of  the  desert! 
A  judgment,  calmly  given  in  Westminster,  had  pursued 
these  refugees  across  the  great  Atlantic,  over  the  Western 
world,  and  had  shut  them  up  in  this  desolate  mountain- 
top,  familiar  with  silence,  darkness,  and  savage  nature, 
and  fearful  of  nothing  but  the  face  of  their  fellow-man ! 

When  we  had  indulged  our  thoughts  and  observations 
a  little,  we  ascended  to  the  forehead  of  the  rock,  and 
climbed  to  the  top  of  the  cave,  to  look  around  us.  The 
views  are  exceedingly  fine.  At  your  feet,  every  thing  is 
bluff  and  bold,  and  yet  beautifully  clothed.  To  the 
right  lay  the  plain  we  had  left,  with  New-Haven,  and  its 
turrets  and  spires,  half  hidden  in  the  trees ;  and  beyond 
it,  the  noble  bay  and  boundless  ocean.  To  the  left,  the 
valleys  and  the  waters  ran  up  among  the  hills,  showing 
distance  after  distance,  till  they  were  lost  among  the 
shadowy  mountains.  This  was  not  spoken  of  as  a  point 
of  sight ;  but,  apart  from  the  legendary  interest  of  the 
cave,  it  is  the  finest  spot  to  visit  about  New-Haven. 
Fancy  disposed  me  to  think  that  the  Judges  found  in  it 
some  relief  to  the  tedium  and  apprehension  of  their  con- 
finement. How  often  might  they  have  reposed  on  these 
rocks ;  and  while  the  person  was  concealed,  the  eye 
might  have  ranged  over  this  prospect !  And  while  look- 
ing OQ  a  scene  so  blessed  of  nature,  and  radiant  with  the 
blessed  lights  of  heaven,  how  often  might  they  have 
found  their  cares  grow  lighter,  and  their  weary  hours 
shorter ! 

In  descending,  we  amused  ourselves  in  coMecting 
some  botanical  and  geological  specimens,  with  which 
this  region  abounds.  A  gentleman  of  our  ,?arty,  who 
had  explored  it  with  Professor  Silliman,  afterward  very 
kindly  supplied  me  with  a  complete  aet  of  mineral 
specimens  illustrative  of  the  Connecticut  HiUs.  .. 


INTERCOURSE. 


325 


I  met  some  friends  to  tea  at  Dr.  Skinner^s,  and  after- 
ward made  some  calls.  Among  them,  I  visited  Mr. 
Timothy  Dwight,  and  was  introduced  to  the  widow 
Dwight,  the  mother  of  President  Dwight.  She  is  a  ven- 
erable woman,  full  of  years  and  of  faith,  and  greatly 
blessed  in  her  children. 

I  went  in  company  with  Mr.  Dwight  to  church.  Dr. 
Beecher  was  to  preach  on  the  condition  of  the  West.  It 
was  well  attended,  though  not  full.  The  address  was 
long,  and  rather  a  statement  than  a  sermon.  It  was 
quaint  in  some  of  its  parts,  but  energetic ;  the  speaker 
was  full  of  his  subject,  and  it  told  on  the  audience.  I 
took,  at  his  request,  the  prayer  after  the  sermon. 

Dr.  Taylor  had  arrived  in  the  afternoon,  and  we  were 
now  introduced  to  each  other.  I  met  some  of  the  breth- 
ren, previous  to  separation,  at  Mr.  Bacon^s,  for  an  exer- 
cise of  prayer.  Professor  Goodrich  gave  expression  to 
our  common  desires  with  much  wisdom,  fervour,  and 
affe  tion.  I  reached  home  late  ;  led  the  family  worship ; 
and  letired,  after  a  day  of  abundant  but  profitable  occu- 
pation. 


LETTER  XXVIII. 


My  dear  Friend, 

I  LEFT  New-Haven,  with  many  regrets  that  my  stay 
was  so  sUort,  on  the  following  morning  at  five  o'clock. 
We  had  a  fine  run  by  steam  through  Long  Island  Sound, 
a  distance  of  nearly  ninety  miles,  in  seven  hours.  The 
view  of  the  town,  as  you  get  into  the  bay,  is  good;  and 
as  the  Sound  narrows,  and  you  approach  New- York, 
there  is  much  to  admire.  It  was  my  happiness  to  have 
Dr.  Richards  for  a  companion  on  this  trip  ;  and  we  spent 
a  good  portion  of  the  time  in  profitable  conversation.  Dr. 
Richards  is  President  of  the  Seminary  at  Auburn,  and 
has  had  much  experience  in  revivals  in  their  various  types. 

Once  more,  then,  and  for  the  last  time,  I  found  myself 

2S 


326 


NEW-YORK. 


tii  III 


i : ! 


at  home  with  my  esteemed  friends  the  Boormans.  In 
four  days  we  were  to  sail  for  England,  and,  of  course, 
our  time  was  over  pledged.  On  the  Sabbath  morning,  I 
preached  for  Dr.  Spring.  We  united  in  an  exercise  of 
prayer  before  we  left  the  vestry.  I  passed  through  his 
schools  in  the  way  to  the  church.  There  was  a  numer- 
ous attendance  on  the  public  service ;  and  among  those 
present  were  many  whom  I  knew  and  could  denominate 
friends.  Mr.  Abeel,  the  missionary,  was  of  the  number. 
In  the  afternoon,  I  heard  Dr.  Skinner ;  and  in  the  even- 
ing we  attended  a  special  Missionary  Meeting.  I  had 
objected  to  it  as  a  platform  meeting ;  but  it  was  con- 
ducted much  in  the  way  of  our  usual  services,  except 
that  several  addresses  were  made,  instead  of  a  more 
regular  sermon.  They  rested  with  Messrs.  Winslow, 
Abeel,  Matheson,  and  myself.  There  was  a  large  at- 
tendance, and  the  engagements  were  fulfilled  in  harmony 
with  the  sacredness  of  the  day. 

On  the  Monday  we  dined  at  Mr.  Taylor's  with  a  party 
of  friends.  Dr.  Beecher,  and  Dr.  Ely,  who  had  come 
on  from  Philadelphia  to  express  hia  kindness  to  the  last, 
were  of  the  number.  The  intention  in  getting  us  to- 
gether was,  that  we  might  be  prepared  to  meet  the  mer- 
chants in  the  evening.  Dr.  Spring,  and  other  friends  to 
the  object,  had  kept  the  affair  distinctly  in  view  ;  and  a 
select  portion  of  their  body  had  been  invited  to  give  us 
the  meeting.  When  the  hour  came,  we  had,  indeed,  a 
most  cheering  sight.  The  rooms  were  thrown  open,  and 
they  were  quickly  filled  with  from  fifty  to  sixty  gentle- 
men embarked  in  mercantile  interests,  and  professing  to 
make  those  important  interests  contribute  to  the  higher 
interests  of  religion  and  virtue.  Mr.  Perrit  presided. 
Dr.  Skinner  offered  prayer.  The  President  then  ex- 
plained the  object  of  the  meeting,  and  looked  to  us  to 
sustain  it.  I  spoke,  and  was  succeeded  by  Messrs. 
Matheson  and  Abeel.  There  was  a  fine  spirit  in  the 
meeting.  The  whole  subject,  as  it  had  been  explained 
and  enforced,  was  refened  to  an  existing  committee,  to 
consider  and  digest. 

More  might  certainly  have  been  made  of  this  meeting 


LAST  MEETING. 


327 


the  Boormans.  In 
and,  and,  of  course^ 

Sabbath  morning,  I 
id  in  an  exercise  of 

passed  through  his 
There  was  a  numer- 
and  among  those 
id  could  denominate 

was  of  the  number, 
r ;  and  in  the  even- 
ry  Meeting.  I  had 
g;  but  it  was  con- 
ual  services,  except 

instead  of  a  more 
I  Messrs.  Winslow, 
re  was  a  large  at- 
I  fulfilled  in  harmony 

Paylor's  with  a  party 
Ely,  who  had  come 
kindness  to  the  last, 
tn  in  getting  us  to- 
•ed  to  meet  the  mer- 
and  other  friends  to 
ctly  in  view  ;  and  a 
n  invited  to  give  us 
I,  we  had,  indeed,  a 
re  thrown  open,  and 
ifty  to  sixty  gentle- 
8,  and  professing  to 
ibute  to  the  higher 
Ir.  Perrit  presided. 
President  then  ex- 
fid  looked  to  us  to 
jeeded  by  Messrs. 
I  fine  spirit  in  the 
lad  been  explained 
sting  committee,  to 

aule  of  this  meeting 


for  its  avowed  and  proper  object,  but  there  had  been  a 
strong  desire  on  the  part  of  some  friends,  and  of  Dr. 
Beecher  himself,  that  the  occasion  might  be  also  used  in 
favour  ol  ihe  West.  A  hearing  was  granted  to  him ; 
and  he  made  a  good  use  of  it.  His  statements  were 
similar  to  those  at  New-Haven,  but  they  wore  shorter, 
and  more  in  keeping.  It  was  followed  by  a  proposal  to 
contribute,  and  a  subscription-list  was  laid  on  the  table, 
to  which  many  of  his  friends  gave  their  names,  with 
handsome  sums.  About  2,500  dollars  were  subscribed 
before  we  left.  My  only  wonder  was  that  it  was  so 
small,  knowing  something  of  the  men  who  were  present. 
But  the  fact  was,  there  was  some  division  of  opinion, 
not  on  the  object,  but  on  the  propriety  of  attaching  it  to 
a  meeting  called  for  another  purpose.  Many  were  not 
prepared  to  meet  this  application,  and  some  not  to  justify 
it.  The  object  was  of  first-rate  importance,  and  it  was 
excellently  pleaded ;  but  it  was  somewhat  out  of  place. 
From  the  same  men,  under  other  methods,  four  times  the 
amount,  in  my  judgment,  would  have  been  raised. 

Cn  the  following  day  we  dined  with  our  esteemed  and 
constant  friend,  Mr.  Phelps.  We  had  of  course,  on  the 
last  day,  many  friends  at  the  dinner-table.  In  the  even- 
ing we  had  to  attend  a  valedictory  meeting.  I  would 
gladly  have  shiumed  it ;  but  it  appeared  to  be  a  means 
of  usefulneois  and  it  was  very  desirable  to  impress  this 
character  on  o*ar  mission  to  its  close.  The  prospect, 
however,  of  meeting  the  excellent  of  this  city,  and  of 
many  who  had  come  from  various  distances  to  express 
their  affection,  to  speak  to  them,  to  look  on  them  for  the 
last  time,  was,  as  it  approached,  overpowering.  One 
little  circumstance  afforded  some  nlleviation.  I  had  sad- 
ly failed  of  all  Jetters  from  home  on  reaching  New- York; 
but  half  an  hour  before  I  went  to  the  meermg,  I  received 
a  letter  from  my  church,  of  a  most  artectionate  and 
cheering  complexion.     It  was  a  word  spviken  in  season. 

The  meeting  was  to  be  held  in  Murray-street  Church. 
It  was  built  for  the  venerable  Dr.  Mason,  and  is  the 
largest  church  in  the  city,  and  admirably  adapted  to  ex- 
hibit the  entire  congregation.     When  we  arrived  the 


r '  I 


328 


LAST  MEETING. 


h  ( 


![■ 

■{ 

1 

place  was  crowded,  so  as  to  make  it  difficult  for  us  to 
attain  to  the  pulpit.  It  is  large,  and  on  this  occasion 
served  all  the  purposes  of  a  platform.  Dr.  M'Auley, 
the  pastor,  presided ;  and  Dr.  Spring  looked  to  the  ful- 
filment of  the  arrangements.  Dr.  Skinner  opened  the 
meeting  by  prayer. 

It  was  then  moved  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Patton,  and 
seconded  by  Dr.  Miller,  of  Princeton — 

"  That  the  intercourse  between  the  churches  in  Great 
Britain  and  the  United  States,  so  auspiciously  begun  in 
the  present  year,  is,  in  the  judgment  of  this  meeting,  of 
high  importance  to  the  interests  of  vital  piety  in  both 
countries." 

It  was  moved  by  the  Rev.  D.  Abeel,  from  China,  and 
seconded  by  Dr.  Ely,  of  Philadelphia — 

"  That,  in  the  judgment  of  this  meeting,  peculiar  obli- 
gations rest  upon  the  churches  of  Great  Britain  and 
America  to  unite  their  efforts  for  the  conversion  of  the 
world." 

Dr.  Ely,  on  this  resolution  being  disposed  of,  begged 
permission  of  the  chair  and  of  the  meeting  to  submit  a 
letter,  which,  as  Stated  Clerk  of  the  General  Assembly 
of  the  Presbyterian  body,  he  had  drawn  up,  and  address- 
ed to  the  Delegation  of  the  Congregational  Union.  It 
was  as  follows : — 

"Nkw-Yokk,  Sept.  35, 1834. 
"  Rev.  Andrew  Reed,  D.D.,  and  Rev.  James  Matheson, 
D.D.,  Delegates  from  the  Congregational    Union   of 
England  and  Wales. 

"  My  dear  Brethren, 
"  With  more  satisfaction  than  I  can  describe,  or  you 
well  imagine,  as  the  Stated  Clerk  of  the  General  Assem- 
bly, I  introduced  you  to  that  Reverend  Judicatory,  in 
May  last ;  and  now,  as  the  official  organ  of  that  body 
during  its  recess,  and  in  behalf  of  the  Presbyterian 
Church  in  the  United  States,  which,  under  the  spiritual 
government  of  one  annual  Assembly,  embraces  32  synods, 
118  presbyteries,  2,000  ordained  ministers,  200  licenti- 
ate preachers,  300  candidates  for  license,  2,500  churches, 


G. 


LAST  MEETING. 


329 


it  difficult  for  us  to 
nd  on  this  occasion 
3rm.  Dr.  M'Auley, 
\g  looked  to  the  ful- 
Skinner  opened  the 

V.  Mr.  Patton,  and 
n — 

le  churches  in  Great 
aspiciously  begun  in 
t  of  this  meeting,  of 
'  vital  piety  in  both 

eel,  from  China,  and 
ia — 

eeting,  peculiar  obli- 
F  Great  Britain  and 
e  conversion  of  the 

disposed  of,  begged 
meeting  to  submit  a 
5  General  Assembly 
iwn  up,  and  address- 
jgational  Union.     It 


'oRK,  Sept.  35,  1834. 
V.  James  Matheson, 
egational    Union   of 


m  describe,  or  you 
the  General  Assem- 
irend  Judicatory,  in 
organ  of  that  body 
f  the  Presbyterian 
under  the  spiritual 
mbraces  32  synods, 
listers,  200  hcenti- 
ise,  2,600  churches, 


and  245,000  communicating  members,  with  more  than  a 
million  and  a  half  of'  their  baptized  associates  in  public 
worship,  I  bid  you,  on  your  return  to  England,  an  af- 
fectionate FAREWELL.  We  thank  you,  and  the  Con- 
gregational Union,  which  you  have  represented  in  this 
country,  not  only  among  our  ministers,  but  among  the 
900  orthodox  Congregational  pastors  of  New-England, 
for  your  fraternal,  animating,  and  highly  useful  visit. 
Fou  have  rendered  more  dear  than  ever  to  us  the  land 
of  onr  Puritan  fathers,  by  your  friendly,  unassuming, 
pious  intercourse  with  all  classes  of  our  fellow-citizens. 
We  have  great  confidence  in  the  candour  with  which  you 
Aave  surveyed  the  American  people  in  their  domestic 
circles ;  their  public  institutions  of  learning,  civil  govern- 
ment, and  religion ;  their  benevolent  enterprise,  and  the 
common  concerns  of  hfe. 

"  You  have  seen  us  at  a  time  of  greater  political  and 
religious  commotion  than  we  have  ever  before  experi- 
enced since  we  became  an  independent  nation  ;  and  you 
will  have  to  tell  of  noisy  elections,  mobs,  and  ecclesias- 
tical controversies ;  but  you  will  tell  the  truth,  without 
exaggeration  and  bitterness.  You  will  be  able  to  judge 
of  the  stability  of  our  republican  government,  and  of  our 
voluntary  religious  associations,  more  accurately,  from 
the  shaking  which  they  have  experienced  from  these 
evils  which  you  have  been  providentially  ordered  to  see 
in  our  country,  than  had  your  visit  occurred  at  some 
more  favourable  period  in  our  history.  For  our  own 
sake,  we  could  have  wished  that  you  might  have  wit- 
nessed nothing  but  order,  peace,  brotherly  love,  and  suc- 
cess in  every  good  enterprise ;  but  such  as  the  American 
people  are,  in  Church  and  State,  operating  in  their  re- 
spective spheres  without  any  statute  union  of  the  two, 
and  without  interference  with  each  other,  you  now  know 
us  more  thoroughly  than  any  English  travellers  ever  did 
before.  You  have  visited  not  merely  our  public  hotels, 
the  Falls  of  Niagara,  the  natural  bridge  of  Virginia,  the 
Halls  of  Congress,  the  President  of  the  United  States, 
and  a  few  of  our  churches,  but  our  family  circles,  in  log- 

28* 


330 


LAST  MEETING. 


I  ;  ! 


houses,  and  neat  village  or  city  mansions.  You  must 
have  formed  your  opinions  of  American  society,  talents, 
manners,  and  enterprise  ;  you  must  have  judged  of  our 
privileges,  improvement,  good  qualities,  and  faults,  from 
intimate  acquaintance  and  close  inspection  ;  and  not,  as 
many  former  reporters  to  the  British  public,  from  passing 
through  our  canals,  forests,  and  bar-rooms. 

"  Go  home,  then,  brethren,  beloved  by  the  .churches  in 
these  United  States,  to  our  fellow -Christians  in  Eng- 
land, Scotland,  and  Ireland,  and  tell  them,  that  in  reli- 
gious and  moral  character,  grace  has  made  us  much  like 
themselves  :  that  we  love  the  Saviour  whom  they  love ; 
that  we  love  their  representatives  tenderly,  whom  we 
have  seen ;  and  that  our  hearts  shall  be  more  and  more 
knit  to  all  British  Christians  whom  we  have  not  seen,  in 
the  fellowship  of  the  gospel. 

"  We  trust  that,  in  May  next,  some  of  the  delegates 
from  the  Presbyterian  and  Congregational  Churches  in 
our  country  will  return  your  most  acceptable  public  vis- 
itation. 

"  In  the  meantime,  may  the  God  of  our  salvation  waft 
you  in  safety  to  your  families,  congregations,  and  eccle- 
siastical Union,  followed  by  the  prayers  and  benedictions 
of  tens  of  thousands  of  Christians  on  this  side  of  the 
Atlantic,  who  highly  esteem  you  in  love,  for  your  works' 
sake,  and  for  the  sake  of  Christ  Jesus,  our  conunon 
Lord,  whom  you  serve  in  the  gospel. 

"  Ezra  Stiles  Ely, 

"  Stated  Clerk  of  the  General  Assembly  of  the  Pres- 
byterian Church  in  the  United  States  of  America." 

On  having  read  it,  he  submitted  whether,  if  the  con- 
gregation generally  approved  of  it,  and  of  its  being  pre- 
sented to  the  Deputation,  they  would  rise  from  their  seats, 
as  an  expression  of  that  opinion.  It  was  a  striking  sight 
to  behold  that  mass  of  people  rise  over  the  place  like  a 
wave  of  the  ocean,  and,  like  it,  subside  again ! 

Having  received  the  letter  from  the  hand  of  Dr.  Ely, 
I  was  called  on  to  move,  and  Mr.  Matheson  to  second, 
the  following  resolution : — 


i 


# 


LAST  MEETING. 


331 


"  That,  in  the  opinion  of  this  meeting,  the  signs  of  the 
times  imperatively  demand  a  more  intimate  union  of  sen- 
timent and  effort  throughout  the  Christian  world." 

It  was  then  moved  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Spencer,  of  Brook- 
lyn, and  seconded  by  Dr.  Beecher — 

"  That  while  we  give  thanks  to  Almighty  God  for  his 
gracious  care  of  our  beloved  brethren  during  their  voyage 
to  this  land,  as  well  as  for  their  frequent  and  untiring 
labours  among  us,  this  assembly  now  unite  in  humble 
supplication  for  their  safe  and  comfortable  return  to  their 
families,  and  the  household  of  faith  which  they  have  rep- 
resented, in  the  fulness  of  the  blessing  of  the  gospel." 

Dr.  Miller  was  then  requested  to  give  expression  to 
this  resolution,  by  thanksgiving  and  prayer. 

The  doxology  was  then  sung,  and  the  benediction  pro- 
nounced by  Dr.  Spring ;  and  we  began  to  separate.  But 
we  were  long  that  evening  in  separating.     AH  were  de- 

vOi  of  presenting  their  salutations,  and  some  had 
0 .av:  one  and  two  hundred  miles  for  that  purpose. 

To  the  people  generally,  it  was  evident  that  the  meet- 
ing was  delightfully  interesting.  Persons  of  various  de- 
nominations and  opinions,  unaccustomed  to  meet,  were 
brought  together;  and,  though  unused  to  sympathize, 
found  their  sentiments  softened  and  blended.  The  exer- 
cises were  sustained  in  the  spirit  of  devotion  and  of 
Christian  charity,  and  the  spirit  of  love  passed  over  the 
assembly.  To  me  it  was  almost  too  affecting.  I  was 
looking  en  every  thing,  every  face,  every  friend,  for  the 
last  time. 

On  the  following  morning  we  had  many  friends  calling, 
and  many  to  breakfast.  Afterward  we  had  an  exercise 
of  worship.  Dr.  Cox  read  the  Scriptures,  and  offered 
our  prayers  to  God.  Dr.  Beecher  made  a  short  sponta- 
neous address  ;  and  then,  at  my  request,  reduced  the  sub- 
stance of  it  to  prayer.  We  were  strengthened  by  these 
engagements  for  remaining  duty.  The  parting  words, 
or  rather  separations  and  salutations,  without  words,  fol- 
lowed. We  took  leave  of  the  family  which  had  been  to 
us  as  a  home  ;  in  which  we  had  received  the  kindest  at- 
tention ;  and  which,  though  frequently  inconvenienced  by 


332 


FAREWELL. 


■I! 


If  ;  i 


U  ! 


.'.i 


the   nvimber  of  calls  and  claims  arising  on  our  resi- 
dence, were  never  discomposed  or  weary, 

Mr.  Boorman  had  provided  an  omnibus  to  convey  us 
to  the  ship ;  and  as  many  as  could  be  accommodated 
went  with  us.  At  the  steamboat,  which  was  to  take  us 
down  to  the  vessel,  was  also  a  host  of  friends.  Most 
of  them  were  proposing  to  go  with  us ;  but  it  rained 
hard,  and,  from  the  state  of  the  wind,  it  ;vai  probable  we 
should  not  sail ;  and  we  persuaded  them  not  to  be  at  in- 
convenience on  our  account.  We  took  leave,  therefore, 
of  m'^st  of  them  ;  but  Dr.  Spring,  Dr.  Miller,  and  sever  i 
other  Iriends,  determined  to  continue  with  us  to  the  lasi 
That  short  period,  when  you  have  parted  with  most  of 
your  beloved  friends,  yet  still  retain  a  few  of  the  choicest, 
with  the  impression  that  they  must  be  quickly  surren- 
dered, is  full  of  feeling ;  but  it  balks  expression.  We 
reached  the  vessel ;  received  the  last  farewell  of  our  last 
friends,  and  went  on  board.  Here  there  was  nothing  to 
occupy  the  attention ;  there  was  no  prospect  of  sailing 
that  day ;  the  rain  fell  heavily  around  us ;  one's  affec- 
tions had  been  lacerated  by  a  thousand  partings  ;  the 
last,  the  very  last,  had  come ;  my  heart  within  me  was 
desolate. 

The  next  day  we  were  under  way.  But  the  weather 
was  not  favourable,  and  the  vessel  rolled  greatly,  so  that 
we  were  nearly  all,  more  or  less,  unwell,  and  had  but 
little  opportunity  of  looking  about.  I  caught  one  last 
glimpse  of  the  country  I  had  left.  That  amazing  con- 
tinent, with  all  its  cities  and  mountains,  was  now  reduced 
to  a  thin  dark  line,  running  parallel  with  that  of  the  hori- 
zon ;  and  now  it  disappeared,  and  the  sea  and  sky  shut 
up  the  prospect. 

The  vessel  by  which  we  returned  was  the  same  that 
took  us  out.  Two  improvements  had  been  made  in  this 
excellent  line  of  packets  since  our  arrival.  The  one  re- 
lated to  the  use  of  wine  ;  you  were  now  charged  only  for 
what  you  ordered,  instead  of  paying  a  round  sum  and 
drinking  at  pleasure.  Under  the  former  system,  persons 
least  accustomed  to  wine  were  tempted  to  drink  the 
most,  that  they  might  have  the  worth  of  their  money. 


sing  on  our  resi- 
ry. 

ibus  to  convey  us 
}e  accommodated 
ich  was  to  take  us 
of  friends.     Most 
us  ;  but  it  rained 
it  vvai  probable  we 
em  not  to  be  at  iii- 
ik  leave,  therefore, 
Miller,  and  sever  1 
with  us  to  the  last 
rted  with  most  of 
ew  of  the  choicest, 
3e  quickly  surren- 
3  expression.     We 
farewell  of  our  last 
ere  was  nothing  to 
(rospect  of  sailing 
id  us ;  one's  afFec- 
jand  partings ;  the 
sart  within  me  was 


But  the  weather 
lied  greatly,  so  that 
iwell,  and  had  but 
I  caught  one  last 
rhat  amazing  con- 
I,  was  now  reduced 
th  that  of  the  hori- 
i  sea  and  sky  shut 

vas  the  same  that 
been  made  in  this 
ival.  The  one  re- 
w  charged  only  for 
1  round  sum  and 
}r  system,  persons 
3ted  to  drink  the 
i  of  their  money. 


PASSAGE    HOME. 


333 


The  other  variation,  I  am  happy  to  say,  is  in  favour  of 
the  Sabbath.  It  has  been  determined,  so  far  as  New- 
York  is  concerned,  that  the  vessels  shall  not  sail  on  that 
day  ;  so  that  when  the  date  of  sailing  falls  on  the  Sab- 
bath, it  shall  be  understood  to  take  effect  on  the  follow- 
ing day.  This  is  not  only  important  in  itself ;  it  is  valu- 
able as  an  example.  This  line  of  vessels  has  established 
itself  by  its  promptness  and  celerity,  and  it  thrives  by  it ; 
but  if  It  is  not  afraid  to  make  this  sacrifice  in  favour  of 
the  Sabbath,  surely  others  are  left  without  excuse. 

We  had  a  very  full  vessel,  but  our  company  was  agree- 
able and  obliging.  Many  were  under  a  religious  influ- 
ence, and  some  were  previously  known  to  us.  Among 
them  was  the  Rev.  W.  Paxton,  from  Virginia.  For  the 
first  three  days  we  had  faint  or  head  winds  to  contend 
with,  but  afterward  we  made  way  surprisingly.  We 
ran  in  six  days  about  1,600  miles.  Of  course,  we  had 
some  fine  sailing,  and  had  two  of  our  studding-sails 
blown  away ;  but  the  motion  was  far  less  trying.  I  kept, 
on  the  whole,  pretty  well ;  the  weather  became  much 
warmer  and  finer,  so  that  I  could  enjoy  the  deck ;  and  I 
suffered  much  less  than  in  the  voyage  out.  We  had  a 
couple  of  hawks  come  on  board  when  we  must  have 
been  500  miles  from  land. 

My  comparative  freedom  from  physical  inconvenience 
left  hie  at  leisure  to  enjoy  the  scenes  around  me ;  and 
they  did  afford  me  the  highest  enjoyment.  I  cannot  sub- 
scribe to  the  charge,  that  the  ocean  loses  all  its  interest 
by  its  uniformity ;  it  supplies  the  lover  of  nature  with 
endless  variety.  I  did  not  see  it  two  days  in  the  same 
condition,  or  assuming  the  same  fo-ms,  or  showing  the 
same  colours.  I  was  literally  surprised  at  the  variety  of 
its  aspects ;  and  all  of  them  either  suffused  with  beauty 
or  magnificence.  Now  it  swelled  into  grandeur  and  filled 
you  with  awe ;  now  it  was  full  of  life  and  motion,  and 
gave  by  sympathy  a  briskness  and  elasticity  to  your  spir- 
its ;  and  now  it  lay  at  your  feet,  like  an  infant  in  slum- 
ber, so  placid,  so  still. 

It  was  a  great  advantage  on  this,  as  on  other  accounts, 
that  we  were  indulged  with  such  beautiful  moonlight 


m 


]:i         t  I 


M 


334 


LOOKING   FOR   LAND. 


nights.  It  allowed  me  to  be  much  on  deck,  and  fre- 
quently alone.  I  think  I  never  knew  so  fine  a  moon ; 
certainly  I  never  enjoyed  it  more. 

One  nigiit  I  shall  never  forget.  I  had  left  the  dinner- 
table  to  secure  some  retirement  on  deck.  I  sat  down 
near  the  helmsman,  who  was  silently  directing  our  course. 
The  breeze  dwelt  finely  in  the  sails,  and  gave  to  the  ves- 
sel her  noblest  appearance.  The  sea  was  animated,  but 
unbroken ;  and  we  were  moving  rapidly,  but  quietly,  and 
with  a  pleasant  undulating  motion.  A  bright  sun  ^ad 
just  sunk  down  in  the  waves,  and  left  his  vermiUon 
hues  on  the  margin  of  the  dark  clouds  which  skirted  the 
eastern  horizon.  Here  and  there  a  bright  star  appeared, 
dancing  among  the  shrouds.  Presently,  the  daik  but 
calm  clouds,  sleeping  on  the  waters,  gave  indications  of 
a  lustre  not  their  own.  Soon  they  were  attenuated,  and 
diversified,  and  illuminated,  by  a  presence  which  was 
still  unseen.  And  then  the  lighter  and  gauzy  por- 
tions drew  back  like  a  curtain,  and  forth  came,  as  from 
her  pavilion,  and  in  all  her  majesty,  the  queen  of  night. 
Her  lustre  shot  across  the  dark  waters,  and  turned  them 
into  a  flood  of  quicksilver.  The  clouds  quickly  disap- 
peared as  she  ascended  in  her  career ;  and  the  stars,  one 
by  one,  were  extinguished  by  her  brightness.  The  lines 
of  the  horizon,  too,  had  vanished,  so  that  the  blue  sky 
and  blue  sea  seemed  united  and  infinite.  Over  all  this 
infinitude  of  space  there  were  only  two  objects  to  be 
seen  :  the  moon  sailing  silently  through  the  ocean  above, 
and  ourselves  sailing  silently  through  the  ocean  below ! 

Although  we  were  making  so  short  and  swift  a  pas- 
sage, it  was  remaikable  what  anxiety  there  was  on  the 
subject  of  making  land.  On  the  fifteenth  day  some  birds 
came  on  deck,  and  there  was  great  joy,  and  many  discus- 
sions whence  they  came,  and  the  probable  distance  they 
could  fly.  Before  there  was  a  reason  ble  chance  of  see- 
ing land,  there  was  an  eager  outlook  in  the  d-rection  in 
which  it  was  expected ;  and  when  the  chance  became 
reasonable,  it  is  astonishing  what  eagerness  was  excited. 
The  meals,  which  had  been  an  object  of  so  much  atten- 
tion, were  comparatively  neglected  ;  and  hour  after  hour 


^ff' 


ND. 

1  on  deck,  and  fre- 
w  so  line  a  moon; 

had  left  the  dinner- 
deck.     I  sat  down 

directing  our  course. 

and  gave  to  the  ves- 

a  was  animated,  but 
idly,  but  quietly,  and 
A  bright  sun  ^ad 
left  his  vermilion 
ds  which  skirted  the 
aright  star  appeared, 
sently,  the  daik  but 
,  gave  indications  of 
ivere  attenuated,  and 
)resence  which  was 
er   and  gauzy  por- 

forth  came,  as  from 
,  the  queen  of  night, 
ers,  and  turned  them 
louds  quickly  disap- 
)r ;  and  the  stars,  one 
ightness.  The  lines 
3  that  the  blue  sky 
inite.  Over  all  this 
J  two  objects  to  be 
ugh  the  ocean  above, 
h  the  ocean  below  ! 
lort  and  swift  a  pas- 
jty  there  was  on  the 
eenth  day  some  birds 
oy,  and  many  discus- 
obible  distance  they 
>n  ble  chance  of  see- 
k;  in  the  (direction  in 
the  chance  became 
rerness  was  excited. 
zX  of  so  much  atten- 

and  hour  after  houi 


DELIV£RANC£:. 


335 


they  would  be  searching  for  land,  and  seeing  only  water, 
till  the  eye  ached  under  the  exercise.  At  length  land 
appeared,  but  so  mistily  and  cloud-like  that  it  created 
doubt ;  it  grew  on  the  sight,  and  there  were  trees  and 
cottages  dimly  seen,  and  there  was  the  hopeful  certainty 
of  waking  bliss. 

I,  too,  although  I  had  much  enjoyed  the  voyage,  ex- 
ulted to  see  my  native  shores.  I  had,  however,  a  sort 
of  fear,  with  all  the  freshness  of  the  New  World  upon  me, 
lest  the  Old  Country  should  suffer  in  the  comparison. 
But  when  we  passed  Holyhead,  ana  ran  along  the  coast 
of  Wales,  that  fear  was  exchanged  for  delight.  I  al- 
ready owed  much  to  Wales,  and  many  times,  but  never 
more  than  on  that  morning.  Penmaenmawr  and  his  as- 
sociates present  a  range  of  coast  scener/  such  as  is  sel- 
dom to  be  seen,  and  such  as  I  had  not  seen  in  the  New 
World.  I  was  thankful  to  have  seen  other  countries,  and 
to  have  thought  better  of  them  than  "r ;  but  I  was  thank- 
ful also  to  find  that  it  was  not  at  the  expense  of  my  own. 

It  was  the  Sabbath ;  and  notwithstanding  the  excite- 
ment necessary  to  the  circumstances,  as  we  had  no  rea- 
son to  think  we  should  arrive  early  in  the  day,  w^  pro- 
posed an  act  of  worship.  We  had  done  so,  both  in  go- 
ing and  returning,  when  the  weather  permitted.  As  usual, 
the  passengers  mostly  complied,  and  we  had,  I  hope, 
a  profitable  service.  A  gentleman  of  the  Hebrew  nation 
voyaged  with  us,  and  at  this  time  joined  in  our  service  ; 
he  did  so  feelingly,  and  afterward  expressed  his  gratitude. 

We  could  not  pass  the  bar  in  time,  and  were  therefore 
obliged  to  wait  for  a  steamboat.  As  we  passed  up  the 
river,  we  saw  several  vessels  stranded.  I  inquired 
the  cause.  "The  causer'  said  the  master  of  the  vessel; 
"  why,  we  have  had  such  a  gale  of  wind  these  three  days 
as  has  not  been  known  for  many  years."  We  were  most 
likely  to  be  visited  by  it,  and  to  suffer ;  and  yet  we  did 
not  even  know  of  it,  and  had  only  wind  to  fill  our  sails  ? 
About  fifty  vessels  were  lost  by  these  gales  in  the  North 
Seas ;  and  in  going  out,  about  sixteen  vessels  and  1,000 
persons  perished  on  the  American  coasts ;  and  we  made 


'^ 


V 


'»^ 


336 


ARRIVAL   AT  HOME. 


M 
;  f. 


I  ( 


the  passages  in  safety — ^the  one  in  twenty-two,  and  the 
other  in  seventeen  days.  The  captain,  in  allusion  to 
this,  said,  "  You  are  very  lucky,  sir !"  I  was  constrained 
inwardly  to  say,  "  God  is  very  good  !" 

It  was  night  before  we  landed.  I  was  weary  and  cold, 
and  that  !  might  have  the  r.dvantage  of  a  tepid  bath,  and 
accompany  Mr.  Paxton,  I  went  to  an  hotel.  We  united 
in  an  act  of  devotional  acknowledgment,  and  then  retired. 

I  went  the  following  morning  to  my  kind  friends,  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  BuUey.  We  received  great  assistance  from 
them  and  others  in  passing  our  luggage  ;  we  offered  praise 
where  last  wc  had  offered  prayer,  in  connexion  with  Dr. 
Rafiles's  church,  and  then  we  hastened  to  the  metropolis. 
As  it  was  not  known  at  what  time  or  by  what  convey- 
ance I  should  arrive,  I  did  not  expect  to  meet  any  one 
till  I  reached  my  home.  But  at  Islington  a  voice  hailed 
me  which  I  knew,  and  presently  my  deacons  were  around 
me,  and  embracing  me ! 

They  took  charge  of  me  and  my  concerns,  and  con- 
veyed me,  without  a  moment's  trouble,  to  the  threshold 
of  my  own  door.  Over  it  they  would  not  pass ;  but  when 
they  had  served  me  to  the  utmost,  with  a  dehcacy  worthy 
of  the  Patriarch's  friend,  they  instantly  disappeared. 

Thus  was  I  brought  again  to  the  bosom  of  my  family 
and  my  flock  in  peace.  I  had  been  absent  seven  months ; 
I  had  travelled  13,0G0  miles,  and  had  pass^ad  over  the 
very  line  which  the  cholera  fearfully  occupied,  and  yet 
no  serious  evil  had  befallen  me  or  my  dearest  interests. 
But  the  mission  was  eminently  the  subject  of  prayer; 
and  I  gratefully  connect  the  many  happy  circumstances 
with  which  it  was  attended,  to  the  affectionate  and  fer- 
vent prayers  offered  by  the  churches  on  either  side  the 
Atlantic. 


-#•- 


END  OF  VOL.  I. 


! 


110 
?16  4 


Sf" 


4' 


venty-two,  and  the 

tain,  in  allusion  to 

I  was  constrained 

fM  weary  and  cold, 
3f  a  tepid  bath,  and 
hotel.  We  united 
nt,  and  then  retired. 
ly  kind  friends,  Mr. 
I  at  assistance  from 
! :  we  offered  praise 
connexion  with  Dr. 
d  to  the  metropolis, 
or  by  what  convey- 
t  to  meet  any  one 
igton  a  voice  hailed 
eacons  were  around 

concerns,  and  con- 
le,  to  the  threshold 
not  pass ;  but  when 
;h  a  delicacy  worthy 
;ly  disappeared, 
aosom  of  my  family 
bsent  seven  months ; 
ad  passed  over  the 
y  occupied,  and  yet 
ly  dearest  interests. 
I  subject  of  prayer; 
[lappy  circumstances 
affectionate  and  fer- 
es on  either  side  the 


